wsln33

Hi guys, Got my car tuned the other day, it is a 26/30 and made over 450rwkw on 18psi pump through an auto. Started breathing heavily upon taking the car off the dyno I am told. It is cylinder two that is 40psi, all others are very close to 120psi. Put some oil in the bore and it went up to 65psi. It has argo rods and cp pistons and rings. 1) what is the problem? Rings gone bye bye? 2) Why did this happen? 3) Is this common or something to expect? 4) how much to fix if engine is taken to engine builder? Thanks in advance

Whats my solution do you think? Would it be possible to get away with running these two -12 lines and tee them into the return line from the back of the head to the sump? Therefore all that oil will go straight back into the sump? Or is the oil all frothy and full of air and needing to be condensed a bit before returning to the sump? I could then run some lines off these to the catch can so it is still vented? Just dont want to have to take off the cam covers and bugger around with them thats all.

Looked alot neater with them sort of hidden at the back

I dont have any top breathers, I moved them to the back Would over two litres be in the head though?

I thought it may have been fine on the first run as i didnt do a burnout? Maybe the 7 second burnout was enough to fill it and then in the run it overfilled? How does oil get into the head if the rings are stuffed? And if I dont have the correct restrictors could they push that much oil into the head? And again, is the rear drain on the head going into the correct side of the sump? Its going into the intake side?

Hi guys, Really need some answers to this as its not right. My engine is a 26/30, only done about 800kms. Makes good power (450rwkw, 18psi pump). I went racing a month ago and first ever run was an 11.8@137. Didnt do any burnout really and 60ft was 2.5! No oil came out of the 1.8l catch can. Second run it filled up my catch can (1.8l) and oil went everywhere! Difference was I did a good burnout (about 7 seconds). Ran 10.4 as 60ft was 1.7 but didnt seem to want to rev over about 5500. That put an end to the day as oil was everywhere. Made an overflow for the catch can and after i raced it again it has filled both up, so about 2.5 litres really! Also the car didnt want to rev past 5500 Not too much of a mess so emptied the can and filled it up and went again. Second time ran 10.04@137 and I changed to second (powerglide) before 5500 to not hit . Catch can setup is that I have two -12 lines coming from the back of the rocker covers (not the top like standard but actually coming out from the back of the rocker covers). These run into the catch can. The catch can did have a return (on my first outing) which was plumbed into the oil drain from the back of the head. This oil drain returns into the top left hand side of the sump if standing in front of the car. For my second outing i blocked off the return as i thought it may have been getting blown up into the catch can. I do have restrictors in the head but am not sure on there exact size? Where on earth is all this oil coming from? Please help

Hey guys, need some help. I've got an R33 gtst which I converted to 3sp auto, still has the manual diff in it. When I raced it the other week at heathcote, it was maxing out before the finish line. How do i work out what I need to change my diff ratio's to, in order to gain a higher top speed

How worn are the tyres?

Sorry mate, whats the crack off pressure?

Dont know the bearing clearances right now. I wouldnt think the pressure relief valve was checked. The pump was just put on. How should the relief valve be checked? What sort of problems will I have with that much oil pressure? Im running the engine in at the moment and have to put 1000km on it so will it be ok before I have to take it back? Thanks mate

Hey guys, I just got my car back from a 3 year build. Its a 26/30. It has a jun pump. All is going well with it but the tuner says the oil pressure is high at around 130-140 psi but then drops to 120ish over 6500rpm. He was concerned about this? Do jun pumps usually run this high? and is the dropping oil pressure a concern or is it still plenty of oil pressure to keep everything happy?

The back half is bolt in and I want the front half bolt in aswell. I know it will be hard but it can be done. I will be racing at calder and they are fine with bolt in cages. Im a bit pissed off that its not up to andra specs though as Ive already paid 1700 just for the rear. Its not up 2 spec in 2 areas - it is bolt in, and the rear 2 points mount to the top of the wheel arch.

As I said mate 389 for a complete genuine nissan gasket set. Search for it at horsepowerinabox. Or if you want go pay 600

About 380 mate for a genuine one

Hey guys, i have read the other rollcage thread but it didnt help me. I already have a 4 point cage but need the front half done as I plan to go a bit faster than I origionally thought. I plan to run low 9's high 8's in a vl calais using a 26/30. Im trying to do as much work as i can myself as Im a plumbing apprentice so funds are quite limited! I thought the best way would be to be buy the front half kit in chromoly from Mcdonald brothers racing as i cant bend anything myself. The problem is I didnt get the rear 4 point off them so dont know how its going to match up. 1) Is this the best way to go about it? 2) How do i notch the pipe when butting up to the existing rear cage? What tools will I need? 3) What welder can i use to tack it together before i get someone to weld it properly? I have an oxy? Would that be suitable just to tack it? What filler rod? Thanks