JC71
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Posts posted by JC71
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I couldn't get this to work right, New clean IACV, coolant seems to flow and solenoid functions, but again as soon as I plug it in the idle raises, I ran the car for a good 1/2 hour messing around with various things it, no vac leaks.
At one point with the IACV plugged in I was able with the adjustment in the side of IACV turned all the way in get it idle down a little to around 1000, but no lower, and it would surge, I unplugged the IACV engine rpms drop to about 350, turned the adjustment about 3 turns in , set idle to around 800 rpms' and it idles smooth.
I set the idle stop screw abut the same so it cant drop below under load. the engine starts, restarts, with no load or with a load seems to run fine. I will have to leave it like this for now as I cant get it to function correctly with the IACV plugged in.
One other thing I discovered that might be the reason for some of the issues, the engine in the car is a RB25det neo from a Stagea along with the Stagea ECU. so alot of wiring, plumbing etc that is typically there in a R34 is not.
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"The outer is separated from the inner by the rubber"
duh....I know that, I should have figured that out, gheeze.
thanks, I'll replace it.
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appears to be, I loosened the bleeder on top IACV and coolant came out.
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I just replaced the timing belt, along with tensioner, idler, water pump, etc. all the front end engine stuff with all new stock Nissan parts on my 98 R34 GTT that I just recently got, so glad I did as the belt ,tensor, idler and water pump were all original to the car with over 161 Km and looked absolutely terrible, honestly I cant believe the belt has not broken, luckily I have not driving the vehicle since I got it, and only have ran a few times because I've been restoring it over this winter. I turned engine over by hand and lined up all the timing marks from cams, to the head (plate behind pulleys), and crank to oil pump block mark, as ran fine, but had a lot of front end noise. the idler sounded like gravel and the tensioner had to no tensor left on it at all as it appeared the spring had rusted in place due to a waterpump leak over the years. so the timing belt was very loose on the left or tensioner side.
Never the less I turn engine by hand until everything lined up even with the marks on the original belt. I remove everything making sure not to rotate anything, then put in new tensioner, idler, made sure all marks from belt matched marks on the pulleys, cams and crank alike and all marks from crank and cams to head and block were perfect. I slowly turned by hand and everything lined up on the cams and crank to the head and block every other time, as proper. all looked fine until I put the lower timing belt cover back on, then the harmonic balancer, at this point before torqueing the crank bolt down I noticed the timing mark on the lower cover to the harmonic balancer is off.
I think the marks on the harmonic balancer and in 5 degrees, from 0-20 and it should be at 0, but some how its around -2.5, not enough for a belt notch, and there is little play in this cover to the block.
The key way and key are perfect on the crank and slot in balancer is perfect, no play here, and the cams and other timing marks seem to be on. Is this something to be concerned with or will it be fine. maybe just this way due to a new stock Nissan belt?? slightly tight and will stretch a hair???
I marked the CAS before disassembly and know it should be set to 15 degrees BTDC or so at 650 rpms per engine decal. so do I need to worry about what appears to be a slight retard of the mechanical timing? or will this slight difference be compensated when I adjust my CAS?
appreciate any insight.
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I replaced the entire IACV assembly with new unit from Nissan, idle acts the exact same, starts and runs with idle rock solid at 900, as soon as I plug in the solenoid from the new IACV the idle races up to 1400, even with idle adjustment on side back of intake manifold maxed out for lowest idle still way too high around 1200. Again if I unplug the IACV, turn idle screw to about half and it runs fine at around 900. thinking about just leaving it unplugged, do not ever plan to drive it when its cold, and always stored in climate control garage, just sucks to spend 500 dollars and have no change, could have left the original at this point. any other thoughts as to what it could be? maybe not even worth pursuing? that is if cold start idle aid was the only reason for Nissan to have this part anyway. tried AC and other loads and it never seemed to push idle below stall.
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can someone tell me what type the stock injectors are on a 98 rb25det neo engine?
all aftermarket intakes require style /size injector pictured below...I need to know what stock engine has. and if they are compatible, or what mods would have to be done.
style of intake I am looking at
thanks
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awesome, that's exactly how mine is working, I was unsure as when car arrived none of these gauges were connected, so I had to wire/ plumb everything. good to know I did it right, thanks.
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1998 ER34 GTT rb25det neo engine , everything is stock but intake filter, intercooler and exhaust system.
my question is:
what is the normal readings on the stock boost gauge?
with key on?
at idle?
with a quick throttle input pedal tap?
throttle held at 1/2 steadily?
appreciate any help
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98 ER34 GTT idle races, if AAC is unplugged, then idles perfect.
1998 ER34 GTT rb25det neo,
rpm's race at idle, around 1200 rpms, I cleaned MAF, AAC/IACV. no change.
if I unplug the ACC 2 wire plug, it idles correctly, around 900 rpms.
questions:
1. will it damage anything or effect characteristics by driving the car with this AAC unplugged?
2. is this 2 wire AAC component replaceable, or must one replace entire IACV assembly?
appreciate any help
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I think we are talking about two different things....I am not talking about the "main" hoses that go to and from the pump but the two small hoses that both come off the top...
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odd, the front hose on mine has been cut off short and has a bolt in it with a clamp, the rear one curls under the pass side next to the head, (similar to the one in the picture) and I cant see where it goes....the power steering does appear to be working. any ideas why the front one would be cut and blocked?
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correction :power steering, not compressor
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any one know what connector type or part # is used for a 98 er34 gtt washer bottle wiring to the pump? appears previous owner cut the wires off.
thanks
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can some one tell me where these two hoses from the ac compressor are suppose to be connected to?
the front one on mine has been plugged with a bolt...
I searched the online manuals etc. but could not locate it
( i realize the pic is of the rb25de and not the det but I could not get a clear picture of mine, googled this image which shows clearly the two lines I am referring to)
thanks
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1998 er34 gtt....
If I replace the current stock fuel pump with a 255lph Walbro Fuel Pump, will it require a remap or any other things, or will it run no different and fine?
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appreciate the info and "word" clarification.
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did find that it appears they don't use push in clips, rather a clip on retainer that uses a small screw, but still uncertain as the stack order.
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Can some one clarify and or post some pictures of how the inner front fender "protector" (rear half) connects to the front fender????
main question and struggle is does the lip of the inner fender plastic protector guard go under or over the lip of the fender above the wheel?
and so should the lip of the fender be visible or should you see the edge of the inner fender protector guard over lapping the fender lip?
and so the "clips" that hold them on would go through the guard then into the fender? or through the fender into the guard?
(my guess would be the clip goes through the guard then into the fender, if they used "standard" push in body clip but all these items are gone and i cant find any wear or indent showing me how they once where installed)
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looking for a direct bolt on bov for 98 rb25det neo engine,
prefer if its a dual adjustable port, (50/50, atmosphere and or recirculating)
but I cant find one with correct spaced flange holes...
bought 3 so far, all have spacing way too wide for the stock location flange.
(stock spacing hole center to center is 3 3/8 or 85.7 mm)
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trying to find a er34 2 door trunk finisher side trim access panel for pass or left side of trunk liner... see pic.
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did some google and I think I found that the two hoses by battery, must be for washer bottle, that is missing, the front outside temp sensor goes on bottom driver side edge of lower rad cross member. correct me if I'm wrong.
new question:
car has what looks to be the xenon style headlights,
what color are head light bulbs originally?
current outside corner lights are blue...
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did some google searching, and it appears alot of these rb25det neo from Stagea's have nothing in that TCS opening.
as far as that hose next to the bov, I found this pic and it is showing this hose, it has two short sections and a inline valve? or something, but did not find pic showing where it connects to.
as far as i can tell the hose that goes to the boost sensor is off the back of the top section of the intake.
as far as the Drawings you keep referring to, where can one get those?
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alright, here is a better pic of the hose coming off by the bov.
i could not find any wire loom or remains for the ac fan connection.
any idea what are these two open ended hoses by the battery?
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alright, so some came from Nissan, wide open like this, or was there a plate there originally?
so I can put a plate over this opening, and it wont or currently effect anything by not having it connected or open/closed?
and I would assume the Air con condenser fan will have to be connected in order for the a/c system to function correctly, I would assume its controlled by a temp sensor or such, I will look to see if hopefully its just been unplugged and I can track it down, other wise where does it wire to?
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98 ER34 GTT idle races, if AAC is unplugged, then idles perfect
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
no, the car was a manual 5 speed from the factory and still is.