TheOrangeSkittle

Am not gunna replace them but if I can get to them easily when I drop the pan I might take them off and clean them and see if that helps, still cant think of why the fluid alone would make 3rd gear not work at all anymore, it shouldnt be worn out its only got 75k km and the fluid I used was castrol import atf which is supposed to meet the reqs for nissans and japanese standards. I took about 4L out and put the same amount back in.

Alright well I will try this out ina few days! thanks for the help! its only got about 75km on the transmission but I don't think the fluid was ever changed.

Alright thanks, so im getting a new filter and gasket and more fluid, can you take them off and clean them? or would more new fluid just clean them out eventually?

do you think I should also try and replace the solenoids? sorry to ask so many questions, can draining the fluid mess up the solenoids if they were working before? I took out about 4L of fluid and put that much back in, I think that's only half but was hoping it would at least be able to get into 4th with that and id keep doing fluid changes every few months.

thank you so much I couldn't find what the number was for sure, could the filter mess with it that much though if it wasn't before?

I cant find where the gasket and filter are or what part number it is, I planned on dropping the pan but I have 0 clue where to even get the parts. Searching anything auto for the car brings up manual parts, and also I dont get how just draining the fluid would make me lose 3rd gear entirely when 1st and 2nd work better than ever now and it shifted into 3rd somewhat okay before. Do 300zx auto trans gaskets and filter fit gts4 auto transmission? I know a lot of parts are interchangeable

Yeah was planning on converting to manual sometime and Ig this is gunna be the reason I park it till I save up enough to get that done, I know itd AT LEAST be like 500 dollars just to have a guy open the pan and change a solenoid if its even that, just so confused why 4th died when it wasnt slipping and nothing was wrong. Just cruising on the highway 3k rpm 3 days a week and then last week it just couldnt go into 4th and then suddenly every gear is slipping crazy bad.

Hello so recently my car suddenly just one day refused to go into 4th gear/OD, I thought it was just way too cold and the car couldnt warm up and didnt end up driving it for a month after that. Well I starred driving it again recently and I noticed it slips alot in every gear. Even going from a stop to start it struggles to put itself in 1st and the engine will rev but gains no speed. However when it does go into gear it can hold it fine unless I suddenly rev it to much itll slip out for a second, so I check the trans fluid and its brown so I order some castrol trans fluid after abit of research and drain it and fill it up hoping this would make some sort of difference, well driving it right now it will shift into 1st and 2nd no problem no slip at all on its own or manually. But now when it needs to shift to 3rd itll shift out of 2nd and the engine will rev and rev and not shift to 3rd or 4th at all. I know nothing about transmissions and I couldnt find a whole lot searching for an auto trans, 3rd gear worked every time before but slipped a little occasionaly. Now it wont go into 3rd at all after changing the fluid. Any help would be appreciated. I know castrol transmax z is what everyone recommends but I had some castrol import atf for nissans honda toyota etc. Am not sure if the fluid would make that much difference but like I said. Im clueless with transmissions and couldnt find much info.

Hello so update on all of this im pretty sure my problem has been fixed. Took it to a guy familiar with skylines and he found the alternator did indeed crap itself and found charring on the internals along with a faulty connector and a bad fusible link that he discovered had already seperated but previous owner soldered it back together probably because he couldnt find another to replace it. And it also had a bad battery so new fusible link plus re pinning the connectors with a new alternator and new battery seems to have fixed all issues. The car seems to even run smoother now than when I first got it. Thanks for any suggestions you guys gave!.

yes I had it towed back home and charged the battery, the hicas should be okay since I disconnected it the first time it was acting up when I charged the car and pushed it into the garage I started it one last time to see if the lights work and they all flickered on and stayed on so I just shut it off and am gunna wait till I can get it to someone to replace the alternator, I know a mechanic like 5 houses down who may be willing to do it and theres a more high end garage abit further that im sure can deal with it. The time I did use it was mainly test driving it around the parking lot for a minute and a short 5min attempt on the highway, everything on it seems to work properly still so Ill do like you all said and leave it for a pro thank you all for the help!.

Hello and thank you its what I thought it was too just never had this many weird problems with an alternator going bad. Also the lights on the dash and the tachs dont work currently but occasionaly they will flicker when starting the car but not stay on. Could this be a fuse problem or would simply replacing the alternator fix this. Also the car is driveable just no turn signal or interior lights or anything. basically the only thing working is engine essentials and the headlights.

Okay so im not very good at electrical stuff with cars and ive searched for a solution on the web but have gotten no clear answer. I was driving to work on the highway and everything is normal and suddenly I hear a loud pop and the dashlights get very bright then back to normal (this is at night by the way) and the background noise from the stock amp gets louder and sounds more erratic but the speakers and everything still works fine, then the hicas light starts flashing on and off every minute or so. Nothing else happens I park at work and shut it off, get back out to the car after and its totally dead nothing works. I jump it and it starts no problem and the hicas immediately starts flashing faster and faster and I can hear some motor in the back turning off and on in sync with hicas light, and the power steering also stops working everytime. it does this till I turn the car off hoping that the hicas turning on and off didnt damage anything. Car is now dead again. Jumped once more and it runs rough for about a minute before stalling. I think maybe the amp blew and its drawing power or malfunctioning somehow when it shouldnt be so I cant figure out how to unplug it so I pull the amps fuse and jump it and it starts but not a single light in the interior will turn on in the dash or anything except headlights and I can give it some gas but i hear the hicas going wild in the back still, car stalls so I unplug hicas ecu and jump the car again and the lights are on and the hicas has stopped and no hicas light. Car still stalls after a few minutes. I jump it and let it charge for a few minutes then try and gun it home with high rpms and everything is working fine till suddenly 10minutes later a loud pop and dash lights flash bright then back to normal and the car starts slowing everything else working normally till I come to a stop then it all shuts off at once. So have had it towed home and checked the battery with a multimeter and it reads 11.55v off and on and with the car revving it drops to like 11.40v The loud pop sounded like it came from speakers and happend in sync with dash lights messing up. Anyone that knows anything about this cars electrical would be a massive help in diagnosing this. Its a 1991 r32 skyline gts4. I suspect could be bad alternator or amp is drawing too much power now or hicas is being weird or bad battery. Id say alternator right away but idk why the hicas and speakers would go wild together after they popped if it was the case. This pop happens even with the speakers off btw. Also forgot to add the tach doesnt work or any gauges besides fuel gauge when the dash lights go out. Which currently they are out and no electronics in car work except headlights but it will start and run under its own power with a quick charge. Not sure if its still stalling havent tested that yet. Almost forgot to add sometimes the electronics and dash start working again and stay on if i rev the car to about 4or5k rpms and then let it idle they will be on till the car stalls again