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About germanstagea

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  1. okay, found for now what i was searching. stagea does have can bus system but its not wired to the OBD2 plug, like i thought. OBD2 plug should be PIN 6 = CAN-HI, PIN 14 = CAN-LOW but.... G35 (where i first looked) and Stagea (i found it in japanese workshop manual) does have them on PIN 6 (HI) and PIN 3 (LOW).
  2. hi there, i´m trying to find out, which bus system stagea m35 is using. just from looking the OBD2 plug its not using can bus. any idea? need to know this, cause i need to sniff these datas, convert them to can bus signals and send them to other components (like anoter gauge cluster for example).
  3. BIG THANKS for the link. thats perfect and should help me. wiring for combination meter is in DI (Driver Information System). will tomorrow check if the wiring could match the M35 Stagea combination meter or if its complete different.
  4. the manual is japanese and could get translated but the wiring diagram is a photo and google cant translate it. so nobody knows where to find a 2003 G35 wiring diagram or complete workshop manual?
  5. hi there, i´m working on a stagea m35 and want to change for another combination meter. unfortunatelly the only wiring diagram i found was in japanese. cause of that i´m looking for a G35 wiring diagram for 2003 model (2007 model found but the wiring is completely different). big thanks.
  6. hi there, one of my stageas does have a strange problem. when i press the "auto" button the window goes up, till its fully closed, ones reached it goes down around 10cm. it does this every time i press the "auto" button. when i press the switch up normal way, the window does close normal way. did anyone heard about that problem? why does it do that?
  7. OEM STEERING WHEEL BUTTON WIRING yesterday i was wiring the oem steering wheel buttons. this part would be also a 10minute job. 1. remove the lower trim right behind the steering wheel. for that, just remove the 4x screws from the downside. after that unclip (1x clip on each side + upper part is also cliped in). 2. after that you will see the 2x plugs. the yellow one is for airbag, the grey one is for the clock spring which include the wires for horn, sound buttons and cruise control buttons. 3. the current flow when i had the steering wheel off, i checked the current flow to see, which pins i have to use. strangefully some pins seams to be twisted inside of the clock spring. i checked it 3x times to be sure what i´m showing now. but by the way, the only pins we are interested for now are the both of the cruise control. the cruise control button does have a red and a black wire. the red wire is the source site, the black wire is the ground site. as you see the both wires go into the first both pins on steering wheel site and came out on clock spring rear site too. i call them pin 1 and pin 2, but i don´t know if these given numbers will match with the workshop manual. 4. just unclip the plug and pull it out. its possible to pull the plug out without removing the airbag plug (do not remove airbag plug while battery connected). at the other side of the plug you will see that white part. just take a small screw driver and lift it. after that you are able to put in 2x new pins. after that, just press the white part down. i got my pins from a spare harness i had, i think other Nissans should have the same plugs. 5. now you take the main harness of the AP900 cruise control. it does have a 8-pin plug which connects the control unit. just split the blue and the black wire. the blue wire have to get connected to pin 1, the black wire have to get connected to pin 2. 6. do the OE button initialization just start and follow the oe button initialization like written in the AP900 manual. in our case just stop initialization process after "step 4". note: you could doing the oe button initialization and then doing the adjustment procedure i have written in my first post. you don´t need the steering column swith from liteon for that. i my case i was using the column swith which was include in my set, just to see if my speed signal works with the unit. i will maybe later check if i could light my buttons. of course it would be the best if "off" would light, when the unit is off and just "on" lights, when the unit is on and also if "cancel" would light up when a speed is set.... but its all about the work i have to spend. i really hopes that the tutorial would help someone. have fun.
  8. installation of the steering wheel buttons (mechanical part) this job should be done by a professional. i will not cover any damage due to following this instructions. air bags are dangorous and could cause harm. have just a little update. i have installed the steering wheel buttons, but didn´t wired them today as my plug (the grey one of the clock spring) does have just 4x wires which are for the radio control and horn. the wires at pin 1 and 2 are missing. luckily i have a full interior wiring in my storage from which i will going to unpin the 2x pins. this part is a 10minute job.... 1. disconnect the battery and wait 5minutes. 2. remove the 2x small bolt covers from the steering wheel trin. below you will find 2x T30 torx screws with a small pin in the middle. remove these screws. 3. pull out the air bag, use a little screw driver to lift the small black piece of the yellow plug and unplug the yellow plug. 4. unscrew the 2x screws of the metal brace, take it out and watch to not loose the small springs. 5. pull out your key and turn the steering wheel till it lock. use a 19mm socket wrench to loose the large nut. ones its loose, plug in your key, turn it to acc to unlock your steering wheel. turn till it does have 12 o`clock position. unscrew the nut but let it on thread a few rotations, this will help to not get the steering wheel in your face if it will snap loose in next step. 6. try to wiggle the steering wheel on upper and lower area to get the steering wheel loose. for me the best working method is to hard pull on lower steering wheel area. because of this its helpful to not remove the nut totally before the steering wheel didn´t come loose. once loose just remove the nut and then the steering wheel. 7. remove the 3x screws which does hold the steering wheel rear trim. once removed remove the 4x screws which does hold the covers. keep the screws for installing your new steering wheel buttons. 8. install your steering wheel buttons and watch, that the wire does run behind the 3x struts of the steering wheel. otherwise the wire could scrub due to using the horn. tip: after you tighten the screws of the buttons put in you air bag to check if the clearance between airbag cover and buttons is straight on both sides. thats cause the buttons have a slight play which could cause a unsimilar gap. i wasn´t doing this, so i was in need to fully remove the steering when i was going to installing the airbag :). 9. install the steering wheel doing point 7, 5, 4, 3, 2 and 1 in this direction. this is how it should look before installing the airbag. all wires should be behind the hooks. important notes: 1. while the steering wheel is off, DO NOT ROTATE the clock spring. 2. the workshop manual says that the 2x screws which does hold the airbag and the 2x screws which holds the metal brace should get relaced ones they have been removed. i my mind its due to the loctite which is on these screws. so using the correct loctite should be also fine. i will doing the wiring the next days when i picked up the 2x missing pins from my storage. i allready checked the current flow of the clockspring plugs...but more details later.
  9. started the tutorial here: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479423-tutorial-how-to-installing-aftermarket-cruise-controll-in-stagea-m35-on-the-example-of-liteon-ap900ci/ maybe its a help for someone.
  10. i will going to change some text and add some more pictures within the next days! IMPORANT: THIS THREAD DOES SHOW A WAY TO INSTALLING THE AP900 IN MANUAL MODE, NOT CAN-BUS!!! i will not cover any damage which is caused due installation or accident! hello guys and girls, i sourced a liteon AP900Ci cruise control and viewed many websites to find all informations i need. unfortunatelly i wasn´t able to, so i searched within the japanese stagea M35 workshop manual. i´m not a guy who is hiding any informations, so here i am. foreword: i sourced a cheap AP900Ci which was programmed for Peugeot Boxer, including the steering column control stalk and vehicle specific T-harness for throttle pedal as a plug-an-play kit. when i got it i sourced the T-harness 190-5000120, which is designed for usage with 350Z (same plug on throttle pedal). the AP900C and AP900Ci are designed for usage with can-bus system. to be honestly, i didn´t want to spend more money to get the USB data cable, so i decide to use the AP900Ci in manual mode (analog signals). Step 1 (remove trims): i removed all 3x trims on drivers side foot room. unclip the kick panel, then loosen the plastic screw of the foot room trim and remove it. last one would be the bigger trim below the steering wheel. for that, remove the one screw below the hood release handle, then unclip the trim. Step 2 (install T-Harness): Remove the plug from throttle pedal and install the T-harness 190-5000120. Step 3 (get IGN Voltage): at this point you are free to choose, where to get ignition switched +12V. you could directly picking it up from a wire which runs to the fuse box or if you are out of space like me (my space is low due to installed anti theft system), you could picking the IGN up from the BCM (body control module) for example. as you see the pin i was going for is 29 which you can found at plug 3. from my mind its yellow wire with blue stripe. as the plug does have more wires in real then in diagram shown, i recommend to orientate on that the one site of plug does have 3pins on one site of the clip and the other site does have 4pins. i connected the orange wire from the AP900 main harness to this wire above. but i would recommend to use a wire which sources the fuse box. in the AP900 main harness the orange wire allready does have a fuse integrated. Step 4 (connect to the brake pedal switch): at this step you need to connect your twisted brown and brown/white wire from AP900 main harness to the brake pedal. i would recommend to unplug it to get more play in wire. the brown wire needs to get connected to the source site of the switch, the brown/white wire needs to get connected to the ground site (the site which runs to the brake lights). wire colors will follow! Step 5 (get a speed signal): and here comes the point i searched the internet but didn´t found the information i was after. what i found for example was a thread where someone requested where to get the speed signal from for his pivot throttle controller with cruise control function. unfortunatelly nobody wrote down the answer, so i had to search by myself. the car runs a speed signal via can-bus. the can-bus seams to get its signal from ABS control unit which is attached to the ABS block in engine bay. so what i was after was a speed signal from one tire as there seams to be no vehicle speed signal on any wire. so what we grap here is a tire speed signal. due to translating the workshop manual into english i found the trouble shooting point which gives me an important information. as you see in the translated trouble shooting, the pins 22, 24, 26 and 28 are the source site (i thought it would be the signal site first). so the correct pins you could picking up tire speed signals from are pin 7, 9, 11 and 13. my first thought at this point was to get the signal directly from the abs control unit, but i thought there should be a better way than running a wire throught the firewall. so i decide to have a look if the rear sensors running the whole way on underfloor or if they maybe run throught the inside of the car.... and i was right! looking where the 4pin plug is where rear left and rear right running together i found the plug attached to the rear subframe. you could see here: from this point the wire runs about 40cm to the front of the car and came up here: at this point i note, that the wires runs pairwise twisted throught the car. left wheel does have pink wire twisted with light brown wire and the right wheel does have black/red (black wire with red stripe) twisted with light brown wire. so when i lift my carpet on drivers site looked for a twisted pair of wires with black/red wire and a light brown wire i directly found it. if you look to the picture exactly you could see the pair below the big white wire. so i looked for a spot where i could splice my wire into the wiring the easiest way and found its the easiest to unclip the bottom of the seat belt trim (this helps to get the floor more away) and splice my wire into the harness in height of rear end of the kick panel trim. at this area the harness has its highest and most flexible spot and its the easiest way to get into it. Step 6 (install the main unit): now you can install your main unit of the AP900. screw it or use the double sided tape where ever you have space to and (disconnect your battery first!) plug in the main harness and the T-harness. Step 7 (tell the AP900 to be manual) important!: this step is important if the AP900C and AP900Ci have any car software allready preinstalled. when i had all stuff wired together i was wondering, that the unit doesn´t react my brake steps to get into the adjustment setup mode. the reason was, that the unit was waiting for the can-bus signals of the brake (in my case of can-bus signal of a peugeot Boxer). so you need to set it into manual mode by this procedure: 1. turn the car off (unit have to be off) 2. press the SW1 button on the main unit itself and hold the button down 3. turn your key to IGN (unit will do 2x high tones) 4. press the steering column control stalk CM-35 down (-) (unit will do 4x high tones) 5. setting mode ends itself i found this procedure in a installation manual which was written by someone. strangefully i couldn´t find this procedure in the original installation manual of the AP900Ci i bought. Step 8 (go throught the adjustment procedure like the manual says): now you can adjust the brake pedal, speed (72km/h as reference), and pedal sensitivity like in the original manual written. So what should i say, my car is running without any issues and the cruise control is working well. i will going to install oem steering wheel buttons (instead of the steering column control stack) within the next days and will add the installation procedure here. the only problem i have is, that my nismo cluster didn´t have a cruise control indicator, so i have to wire something by myself, that the buttons will light up instead of a indicator lamp. for this i found a tutorial how to light the buttons. all i need to add is a relais i think in combination with the button lights tutorial.
  11. i found the japanese workshop manual for M35Stagea yesterday and translated all sites to english. looks like i found a useable speed signal. i have fully wired the AP900 today. will going to calibrate and test it tomorrow. if it work with this signal i write a short tutorial how to wire the cruise contoller if you don´t want to use can-bus. the information with the non-canbus speed signal could be useful for other things, isn´t it!?
  12. found a pinout of the abs / ets unit, but didn´t found the location of it. even with nissan fast i wasn´t able to locate it. but i had another idea today.... BCM should be the unit which converting the speed signal into can-bus signal, isn´t it? BCM is located in drivers side foot room where the fusebox is located. maybe i could get the speed signal from there!?
  13. did anyone know the wiring of the abs controll unit and where its located? couldn´t find anything on google. maybe it would be an option to get the signal from one abs sensor. i read that g35 does have speed signal on radio wiring, no idea if its 100% the same. will have a look tomorrow on my radio wiring.
  14. did anyone have an idea where to get speed signal from? as i don´t have a USB-data cable to reprogram my AP900Ci i would like to wire it in manually may without can-bus. only signal i wasn´t able to find is speed, as ECU don´t have speed signal wire (it gets it from CAN-BUS). i read somewhere that the atessa ecu have a speed signal and that there should be a 4-pin plug with speed signal close to the OBD-plug. if anyone have an information which helps, please let me know. big thanks!!!
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