Kapr

Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.

Ok. And Nistune? I read (here too) mainly on Stagea threads that it can by "turn off" with Nistune. But they say they still had the sensor plug in. Next week iam going to the Nistune(and other ECUs) tuner so i can finally make it work. I drove the car home and apart from the cut it drove great. No misfire no smoke no hesitation or rough start...so hoping it is this sensor that is missing

Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work? I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.

Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that

So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that? I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...

Yeah they are pretty common even in here so it was nice uprage and it was cheaper then OEM. I thought about that, If the new one still clog after a while it is a new or clean tank

Hi. Ok thanks for the info. I/we do not know what tune is on that Nistune ECU so it is why there is stock ECU and that Nistune is for later when the car is done. I have guy who tunes Nistune and other ECU so i will then take it to him to see and properly tune for the car And for the update. On 99,9% it is bad fuel pump. Which is wierd cuz it is like 2 years old(brand new walbro 255) and that filter (also brand new) was dirty. I was alwaya pumped premium(100) on very good petrol station so i dont know how is that possible...

So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi? That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here

Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO. But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions? EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler

Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...

So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong? I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards? And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you

For once a good news It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.

I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕 hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.

@GTSBoy iam not a mechanic so what could typically gone wrong? It can help my mechanic...maybe he just forgot something or something like that that could help. Yeah i thought. I took a LONG time to search for the right one. Yes i read about all of that and i give him a call about that. I look at those slave/master cylinders and they are not that expensive so i will be buying them anyway just to be sure. @DuncanYou think it can be short? I double checked if that was a right one(it came with the clutch kit) Ok i will give him a call. Hope it is some sort of "little error" and not some "yeah the gearbox needs to go out" one

Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in?