Kapr

Hi...sorry for late reply. It looks it "repaired" itself...maybe it was need to bleed or just "get used to" the new fluid. I have done X houndred km and problem is no more so fingers crossed 🙂 But thank you for help!

@The Bogan Yes...it was done tuesday. Before it happens like one time in a month maybe and goes away in a second. We have done the fluid service and after that it starts doing it. Maybe the new "thicker/better" fluid is too much for the "dying" pump? @Murray_Calavera Yeah we checked that like month ago...i have new coilovers and bushings...wheels are tight and it does drive "bad" or vibrates from driving...only when i steer the steering wheels starts to shake. Maybe bubbles in the system? Could this causing this? And if need to replace the pump...are these pumps same on the "all" R34? Or maybe some other car has the same? (i have RB20DE NEO Manual) I looked at the parts numbers and genuine pump is like 1050 USD O_O

Hi. My car starts to vibrate the steering wheel when i turn the wheels (it happens more often when iam turning to the right) But if i stop and try to "park" the car steering wheel shakes in both directions. it ONLY happens when i try to steer. When iam going straight or slightly turning it is ok. Could this be bad power steering pump or the whole rack? I saw some topic about "death" wobble...it does not do that. Car is not shaking when it drives straight(or slightly turning) or if it sitting idle doing nothing. Thanks 🙂

@joshuaho96 Do we need any "special" software? I know(99%) that the car has no OBDII port and that i have some extension cord to the interface to OBDII @GoHashiriya Can you send me the link? I do not see that(it is friday so maybe it was sold) Yeah they were used but i dont know how many km they done but i presume that if some of the coils gone bad the car would run on 1/X cyl less same as the problem with the connector? As for the parts...yeah coil are old splits...plugs and harness is brand new...MAF is OEM and upon inspection looks good...connector to that too. CAS i rly dont know(can it do that?) For the info i have. I took the car to the highway and the symptoms are that most noticeable "lack" of everything on 4th and 5th gear. When i try accelerate just a little...the car and the engine change sound like it want it to do something but nothing happens...sometimes it start to accelerate but sometimes it does not...when the car changes the sound but it does not accelerate i would describe that sound as...some type of "chooking" or breathing? The sound is differenet and it changes to "normal" accelerating sound soon as the car starts to accelerate...maybe stuck/dirty throttle body? BUT if i put "pedal to the metal" car behaves normaly and all those "problems" above are nowhere to be found. IT IS really only when iam trying to maintain the speed or slightly accelerate.

It is factory manual(5 speed) The lag is "most" noticeable on 4th gear but it can stil "lag" on 3rd or 2nd...but on the 2n/3rd it is really like "milisecond" loss of power but gas pedal reacts normally. And it not do that all the time...the "loss of power" is only sometimes and the "i dont know what you want me to do" on 4th is happeing often like the just do not react to the gas pedal(it reacts i can feel/hear it but like nothing happens for a moment) But as i said it i only a cruising problem and when i try to maintain the speed. When i drive it "harder" the car behave as it should...

Hi, So the new coilpack loom solve the problem. But the "cruising" problem is still there...the "lag" happens only a little bit but (it maybe connected) this happens mainly on 4th gear...there is a lag in power. When i try to accelerate only to maintane speed or little bit speed up...nothing happens only after a few moments like the car would "forget" what i want him to do. But if i put "peddal to the metal" it behaves normaly and quickly. When we replace the coilpack loom we changed sparked plugs(old were still good and nothing bad bud still) checked the coil packs and injectors...all were good. So what can it be? Can it be that MAF? And if...is there any other place i can try to get it other than the "official" sites with nissan parts(they want like 500USD juts for the part) 😄 Thx 🙂

Yeah the man has some serious knowledge 🙂 I let you know how the things went after the reapir/loom arrives... I know that very few people has this engine...but at least it will be there as a info...not much of it anyways so at least something.

EDIT: Hi...so the "new" MAF is busted...100% not working or is just a cheap knock off...my old one running fine but soon as we put the new one car start to behave like that above(black smoke rough idle and 1-2 cyl down)... So at least my is "good" for now. Another issue related to the problem is that we found one of the coil connector was little bit out and it seems kinda broken. He says that this should be that problem cuz car is running normal until it heats up and then it start running bad. He says it can for like 90% could be this bad connector. It heats up and then just "slide" out. He try to "repair" just for the testing if it is really the connector. I already buy a new harness 🙂 So we will see.

Hi. I have the RB20DE NEO too. Did the car feel "slow" and slugish to drive? What about "sound" do you feel/know that car goes only on 5(4) cyl? I have something similiar and it was bad valve on one of the cyl. It looks like you changed "half" of the engine but did you done the compression?

I dont know too...i looked at the "original" price from JP Parts at is around 500 USD...but many times these are price are way to high. Hope i wont need to buy that 500 USD one 🙂 I tried to look on different parts but the part number is the same...this MAF is used in tones of other vehicles. The number on the silver plate is different but i do not know what is that for...

@JayJay777 Hi. I try to check that 🙂 @GTSBoy It is this MAF https://www.ebay.com/itm/283856838638 it looks genuine to me but i do not know 😕 Yeah he is good i just want to "help" and try to get some info for mysefl too 🙂 He put that engine back to the working state at it was working fine. (minus those problems) But maybe now he will figure out the problem and even on cruise car will be "normal". But thx for the info...i will let you know what is/was wrong 🙂

Hi, UPDATE(not o good one this time ) Today i drove normally and suddenly i notice the engine was running kinda rough...like it was down one or two cyl. On idle it was all normal...no smoke no nothing...but when i start going car feels extremly sluggish and it was very slow even on this car. Car was kinda lagging going into the speed...as i say it looked like it was down one or two cyl. I do not want to risk anything and went straight to the shop. Car was completely fine on idle and even reving up the engine reveal nothing wrong...asi i mentioned above i bought new MAF(the part is exactly the same asi mine)... So we try to replace the old one with new...but it was kinda shocking. When we put the new...car starts but run very bad...low on idle...definetely not running on all 6 and smoking(black) from exhaust(maybe rich?) Why the car does that? Of course the car stayed(again) at the shop and he will take a look what is wrong.

Happy new update(since last tuesday) It was ONLY the broken hose from the heater core. Heater core was leaking so we took it out like month ago and just "connect" the hose until the new come out. Being the 25 year old Japanese rubber...the hose do not like the new position and being "too" close to the exhaust(even with heat shield) and just broke. So no HG no nothing. My mechanic even told me(i did not know that) that Skylines have overheat protection when the engine starting to overheat they just cut the fuel...and that is what happened. Next day when the car was cold it started like new. So at least something was not completely wrong 🙂

@DuncanI think so too...but dont why suddenly i start to loose coolant...but i guess that it is how things go bad. The smoke was only from the engine...no smoke from exhaust. And when i checked the oil it was fine(no milky just regular colored oil) Yeah i will see this week what went wrong. @GTSBoyYou think it could like "self destroy" after a year? The gasket was done like year ago and i drove the car couple of k km. But i dont know how these things "work" and if it can go bad like right away or just like this... @joshuaho96I know but do not have a choice. Not many people here gonna work on that car/engine (as far as i know i am the only with this type of engine). Most of them(even that still no many) have GTT and have no time or they want like fortune just for a small things. Yeah i start to think so too...i know i touch the radiator many times before to check and it was HOT to touch..no it was only little warm on left and in the middle where the cap is...completely cold. The "block" thing should have been the problem..or the pump but it is/was new...done with the belts and everything around last year. I will let you know but i think too that something happened with cooling system. But thanks for the tips guys 🙂

@GTSBoy I "IF"...why? The gasket was brand new. Any reason for that? I do not race the car or otherwise abuse it. The whole "trip" the car has seen red(7k rpm) like 10 times max. I know that temperature gauge is not 100% accurate but it was at the center whole time(it should work...it goes down when the car is cold) so idk 😕 @Duncanidk i do not check at the time(my mechanic will) but i kinda dont think so...or at least not "much" cuz when the car stall on itsefl and i manage to open the hood the radiator was cold as no "hot" water was even there 😕 after like 10-15 min the radiator was starting to get warm/hot. I have done brake swap from GTT so i checked everytime i ride for spillage underneath the car...and no drop. Even my mechanic looked last time(like 14 day ago) and car was bone dry ...no leakage or anything... So i think something goes horrible wrong...again 😕 I know it is old car and things can go bad but i really dont know why this was happened.