Tonyr33gtst

It wasn't at all. No pinging noise whatsoever which I would have expected to hear also. I think the ecu was stopping it by limiting the power and hence the sudden reduction in power when boost went over 5 psi. Thanks for the warning mate but it's not an expensive car so I'm not overly concerned, nor should you be ?. However I will definitely check the fueling when it is allowed to get out and on to a dyno. But I think it was just the timing issue tbh, 12 degrees wrong is a lot and the car now drives fine. Now if it was one of my more expensive cars I would be more worried. I appreciate people trying to help. On this occasion no one got the diagnosis right, no one said check the timing, hey ho it's all a learning curve I guess. It might help someone else. Stay safe.

Well it's defo made it quicker and feels alot lot better as you would expect being over 10 degrees too advanced at near 27 deg I am pleased it was so far out and now it is much better drive. Timing strobe bounced about quite a lot like 2-3 degrees so I could be 13-17 degrees (I aimednfor the middle) so maybe getting it more exact may make it even better. Boosts to 10psi now as before I was seeing 14! It has a stage 1 ecu. Guess the advanced timing did something to the turbo boost. It may have ok fuel pressure after all, but I intend to get that checked. When I can get it to a dyno. Hopefully this summer if we can get clear of this damn virus! Thanks all for your comments. It maybe we barked up the wrong tree with the fuel but I learnt stuff all the same. Should have checked timing first like the ecu tuner suggested after I managed to get a response from him. But by that time it was all fuel talk ?. Pulled a plug and looks way better to me.

Found the answer online looks like left is tdc and they go up to 30degrees on the last right one. My car appears to be about 26-27 degrees! I'll try and adjust it down. It bounces around 2 degrees. I need to remove the TPS but it has 2 plugs which one should I remove please?

I guess the Marks are on my balancer pulley not cover. Which one indicates tdc and which one full advance? Looks like it goes 0,5,10,15,20,25,30 to me but left to right or right to left?

Cheers Dose Pipe, I guess that will defeat the object a bit as ecu will rich it up so will mess with afr reading anyway. On boost it may not matter though, as if not enough fuel it will still show up lean?

Thanks, I will not guess at it, I will borrow/buy a timing light and check it properly. I need to work out a way to monitor the fuel pressure under load while driving as can't use a dyno at the moment. I can't fit my AEM wideband in it simply anywhere can I? If I replace the std o2 sensor I guess that throw the car into a limp style mode as ecu wont see the o2 signal? If the car will work I'd like to do that to see the afr as boost is fed in. If lower than say 12.5 to 11.5 then I doubt fuel pressure would be the issue.

But you have to match what the ecu sees timing to cars actual one. And un possible to be too retarded? This is how anti lag works. It also makes the plugs white as causes lots of heat. So does no one think this could be the case?

Awesome GTSBoy, thanks. I agree that it seems that it could be both lack of fuel and over boosting for some reason. Maybe its not a stock actuator on it as the car has been messed with in the past. It is an Auto so I have read that they are set to 20 deg timing not 15 like manual. Any truth in that? Kiwi you mention check for boost leak but my problem is I have too much boost! Hence I wonder if its too retarded and making the turbo work like anti lag. Im half tempted to advance it a little and do a quick test now everything has been cleaned and put back as I keep coming back to what the previous tuner said that he has expieriance of this and too retarded will cause white plugs and poor performance. He even suggested I try advancing a little to see.....I think I know what others will say but if I hear any detonation I will obv. stop straight away. I don't have a timing light or obd1 consort reader. Do the cheap consort 14 pin readers work on ebay to see ecu timing? There seems to be no sensor I can use to adapt the oil electronic pressure gauge I have in the car which seems a shame as I am sure others would like to use one as a fuel pressure gauge. Any suggestions how I do this? A cheap pressure gauge may read rubbish anyway like a cheap engine compression tester I once bought. I think I may just install my AEM wide band into this car as that should show me if fuel pressure is ok, Agree????? Just looked into that and its far too much work to put the wideband in as I need to put another mount in the exhaust for it, I thought I could just swap it in place of the ordinary o2 sensor, Doh!

Well I do appreciate your help lads, I have thanked everyone for their help numerous times. I will defo look at fuel pressure as that is what I thought it was in the first place. And thanks for the psi info on that. The ecu was done by a proper tuning company over here that tune many skylines. His opinion was to bring it in which I'd love to do but 300 miles from me and we can't go out. He suggested checking ecu and engine timing as may be in an anti lag situation. This car has an after market oil pressure gauge fitted. I could use that on the fuel couldn't I? Should give me some idea. Will put everything back in place and try and T in the fuel line after the filter to check it later today. I am still asking for help as the key question is why is the boost so high as im on actuator pressure which should be 5psi according to a previous post. My thought is if I get that to a normal place the car runs fine at that level of boost. As an aside, do stock ecus compensate fuel and timing up to 10psi or so if people use a boost controller? As if so mine dose not run well above 7psi so it would point to fuel pressure even more. Plus I will not 'keep my hair on' as im bald!

Er I would suggest that you dont comment if you are not answering my question. I will not be spending $400+ on a gauge I have 2 oil pressure gauges in other cars and this skyline has one too that I could use come to think of it to check fuel pressure I have already said I will try that too. I am not SET on not going to a dyno! We are in lock down in our country so obviously I cant take to a dyno! I also have a AEM wideband in another car that I could fit to see if lean I guess. I'm very surprised you are not in lock down also wherever you are and able to go to dyno's etc. We are not allowed out only to buy food and medicine here. My question was asking about timing as that is what the ecu programmer suggested as he said in his opinion it wont be fuel pressure. Running too retarded would cause too hot running, high boost and poor performance hence white plugs. I might as well give that some thought before I mess around with plumbing in fuel pressure gauges which incidentally no one has answered above when I asked what fuel pressure it should show at 14psi boost.

He said that if too retarded it could cause this issue. Its an auto so should it be 15 or 20 degrees as ive seen both mentioned. Thoughts?

ECU does say Stage 1 V2 on it but i'm not sure if thats right. If so could this be the reason it is boosting high if on Actuator?? It has no way of bleeding boost from the actuator does it if the solenoid it out of the loop? Just looked at fuel filter and it is 2 years old Mahle one so doubt its that either. I spoke to the ecu guy and he suggested to check the base timing. Any ideas what this should be?

I have opened up the fuel tank and it appears to have a nearly new Walbro GSS341 255 fuel pump in it! It appears to be a genuine one. With decent writing on and not like a fake The plot thickens! There is a bit of discolouration/darker bit of the filter near the pump inlet but not much. I will try and clean it and see if anything comes out but it all looks almost new there. When I bought this car it was meant to have a G4 ECU it hasn't but just had a look and it has a sticker on it from a tuning company but it is not a G4, no usb etc and appears to be a standard one when i open it up, maybe it has a tune on it, see photo? Tried calling them but no response.

I have disconnected the factory boost solenoid so I can run at basic actuator pressure so the ecu will not have any control of that, but it didn't seem to effect the boost when it was connected in the way that you might be talking about either. So if R&R if that was coming into play would it lower boost? It retards ignition so does that reduce boost? as the boost has never dropped, the car just goes slower, drop back to 5 psi and its off again. at 10+psi it has the feel of a N/A car. so no boost noticeable.

Thanks GTSBoy, I just tried it again after managing to move my actuator a little (ie a couple of mm towards the turbo) in its mounts which now seems that it spikes at 13-14psi and falls to 10-12 so 1 psi or so a bit less maybe. The std gauge on the dash boost to very near the +7 top at about 6.5-7 peak. Does this mean near 14psi on that scale? It seems to restore power when i drop to around 5 psi. As my boost/vacuum pipe is direct from the intake to the actuator surely I should only see 5psi without any interference from a solenoid, so what would that look like on the in car boost gauge? also where does peak boost sit at 7 psi? I suspect the actuator is causing over boost. Fuel is a concern but need to make std boost first to see how the fuelling goes at 5-7psi. I have a afrp on another car I have that has 1 to 1 ratio and base pressure at 50 psi, if i put that in the return line after the factory frp could i check it that way to see if its a fuel pressure issue? I dont know if i can do that with the std on infront of it but i guess it works by restriction so as the afpr has a higher pressur/more restriction it may still work??? However, I don't know how I will see under load unless i can film it! By upstream do you mean after the rail on the return? Thanks for your help.

Thanks Murray, Kiwi and GTSBoy. I have already plumbed the actuator direct to the inlet boost pipe from the fmic as in the picture to make sure no more than actuator pressure and that made no difference, hard to see in pic but that feed goes from boost pipe straight down to the actuator. Car has always done it since I bought it so I don't drive it, didnt notice it as it was fine at low to medium throttle and didn't floor it until I got near home. What clue would the boost gauge show me Kiwi as it dosent drop back down on boost to a lower level it is only when I back off the throttle the boost goes down. And that ecu sure dosent look like it's making the car rich to me to slow it down. Surely the plugs would not be white after a quick boot up the road to test it but more black from the R&R the ecu is meant to be doing? And GTS Boy the stock gauge does not go right up when my boost gauge shows 14psi which I thought odd. Is my actuator faulty as should actuator pressure be std must be 7psi odd and boost solenoid make up To 10? What should I check next? maybe change the fpr or take the fuel pump out and inspect? To me it's more likely fuel starvation but maybe r&R. What else is there to check fuel wise other than pump and fpr? There is a sensor on the fuel rail, what does that do? Any ideas would be great thanks lads.

Thanks admS15, What exactly is R and R, what does the ecu do at that point? I guess it stands for rest and recuperation but no idea what the ecu does, timing?fuel? so why so lean plugs if the ecu is doing its job? I have seen this written before but couldn't find out what that meant exactly and yes I think it may be that the boost is too high for the ecu to deal with so I am glad you thought that too. I did also consider fuel pressure as when i remove the vacuum line from the FPR it made no noticeable difference to the idle. I just don't have the understanding to fathom out what can be making my turbo boost so high, the actuator moves freely when moved by hand and the rod moves in and out too. What can I look for, what causes too much boost? If there was a leak in the piping to the fmic would that cause it? If the gauge shows 14psi then surely the actuator is seeing it too?

Hi All, I have a R33 GTST and since I have owned it it has had an issue. It is standard apart from a FMIC and a few internal gauges and silicon pipes. If I accelerate full throttle it is slow, no obvious misfiring, funny noises, just slow. I have fitted new plugs and after only 10km they are all very white! So think its going super lean! All the same colour. It appears to have a reasonably new fuel filter in it and the plugs I removed before I fitted a new set were also not that old looking. If I use half throttle at around 3-5psi all is well and the car goes well. I have noticed that the internal after market boost gauge hits 14-15psi when accelerating full throttle which seems too high. I have plumbed the actuator to run directly off the intake pipe of the fmic but still it boosts at around 14psi! How come it boosts so high? Is that my issue? No sign of a bleed valve and no boost controller. Should just be running actuator pressure so cant understand the high boost? The car revs, drives fault free and does not smoke whatsoever. Any help will be greatly received. Thanks Tony

Hi Im Tony from the UK used to own a GTR but now i have a GTST R33. I have found this forum useful to read about issues but now I have one I cant seem to solve. I will post it it the appropriate section. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks