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AshtonR33

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Posts posted by AshtonR33

  1. 9 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

    There's no such thing as a 3.7 ratio diff from a Skyline. 3.7 is a Silvia ratio. R34 turbos had 4.08 (auto) and 4.11 (manual). If this diff is a 3.7, then it could be any combination of Frankensteined together components and you should not make any assumptions about what it is and has.

    Also, if it is a Nissan viscous LSD, then you can't consider it to be an LSD. They are shit. $400 is at the extreme top end of asking price for a VLSD. They are only worth buying to get the housing and gears. The diff centre itself is not worth anything these days.

    If it is a 3.7 ratio, then it would suggest that it is probably not a VLSD, because no-one would go to the effort to change the ratio on a poxy VLSD. It would be a waste of time, money and effort. So I would assume that the diff is a mechanical LSD. If it is a mechanical LSD, then it is probably worth at least double the $400, depending on condition. If it needs to be rebuilt, then $400 is probably fair, but then you wouldn't really be wanting to go down that rabbit hole.

    You need to know everything about this diff before you consider buying it, unless you're happy to just throw money at it pot luck and see what you get. $400 is pretty small beer.

    Thanks for that. Sorry, im just going off what the ad is saying, the title reading, "R200 3.7 LSD" and in the description he said it was removed from his R34. It would probably be best for me to clarify the condition of the diff with the guy before purchasing it, and its history. However, he was looking to swap the diff for a different one as he believed it was not good for city driving, which would suggest to me that it is in a fine working order. I will clarify with him though. Thank you.

  2. 6 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

    Yes and no. R200 diffs are all "basically" the same. But there are differences caused by auto/manual turbo/NA that can lead to differences in the length of the nose of the diff housing (and hence the tailshaft length and the ABS sensor types and positions).

    If you are talking about a like for like swap (ie, R34 turbo diff into R33 turbo car) then no problems. Everything should be the same. But if you want to cross pollinate, you need to know what the old diff has and what the new diff has and then decide if they're the same or not.

    That has more to do with the other stuff around the diff than the interface of whether the diff will bolt to the subframe. FWIW, the R33 and R34 subframes are essentially the same thing. Hell, the R33 and R34 are essentially the same thing under the skin in most places anyway. Most diff housings will bolt to most subframes (if not all** Skyline R200s bolting to all Skyline subframes).

    **Keeping in mind that the rear bolts on the diff cover are different between R32s and the later ones, but that's not interesting to you wrt your question, and easily fixed by swapping the cover anyway.

    Thanks for that response mate, very informative. Yeah from what i understand it is an R200 3.7 Ratio LSD from an R34, Im guessing that it is from an R34GTT. I do own the R33 GTST Subframe so if thats the case, then from what you have told me, i will have no issues haha. Thank you. 

     

    Also, just a quick question, do you reckon $400 for the LSD is a fair price? just trying to gauge if i should pruchase it or keep looking. Thank you very much.

  3. 15 hours ago, WR33KD said:

    I went the other way. I put a gtr bonnet on my S2. Had to do a couple custom things but the I didn’t need to change the bar just the headlights I’ll take some photos on the bracket/plate I made.

    Alright sweet haha, yeah give us a look thanks. Still don’t know why it sits 25mm further than the fender though

  4. 1 minute ago, Kinkstaah said:

    Probably a good idea to read the laws before embarking on any kind of engine swap. I did it out of curiosity and it states that Mod plates for engine mods are not approved for P plate vehicles.

    Buy 86. Enjoy life. Come back to a Turbo car later if need be. (probably won't need be)

    Yeah man I will read up on those laws haha, thank you. Yeah the thing is I don’t find the 86 that appealing haha, plus I don’t have the money straight up to just buy one. That’s why I bought an R33 with intentions of building it up like I’m doing now. But yeah man, thanks for the help.

  5. 5 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

    What state are you in that allows an engine conversion but not a Turbo?

    Swapping a NA motor in is just as illegal as having a turbo, and 500 times more work.

    Be a smart P plater, and buy an 86.
    You could have a nice daily/street car, and a turbo car for the track with your [engine of choice] if you're really super keen.

    I live in QLD, not too sure on the laws, just thought you needed a mod plate and you would be good to go.

  6. So guys I’m having trouble with the fitment of a S2 Bonnet on my S1 R33, I’ve got the headlights, bonnet and the front bar is coming. But I’ve ran into a problem with the fitment of the bonnet, it sits too high at the back and about 25mm forward. Our initial thought was the bonnet hinge, but we looked and can’t seem to find a “different hinge” has anyone got any ideas? 
     

    thanks guys

  7. 2 minutes ago, Duncan said:

    The thing is, it might be cheap for that motor but it's not a good deal. 

    Even if you genuinely have the kind of mates who are totally reliable, will work for free at your timing and have the tools and skills to do your fab and wiring, even the raw materials to do that swap will cost another couple of thousand. Not to mention if you succeed in all that you will have a low compression turbo motor that makes terrible power.

    Most likely it will be 40% complete at the back of the garage when you get off your ps.

    RB25DE is a good choice, easiest to fit, cheap to but and easy to turbo later on. RB30DE even easier but they might be getting rare since everyone wants the blocks

    yeah you do make a pretty good point. Alright thanks for that mate, ill probably just end up finding an RB of some sort to put into it.. Thanks for your help guys

  8. 1 minute ago, Duncan said:

    Not sure how far out you are willing to consider, but there is another Japanese manufacturer that makes straight 6 engines that it is worth considering rather than Toyota or Ford. 

    A bunch called Nissan have made a range of motors that would be easier to fit in your Skyline as they bolt in, intake and exhaust on the correct side for the chassis and even the wiring is 80-100% plug in. Suggest you look into those.

    Hahah yes, the RB series would be a lot easier in terms of fitting and wiring. The only problem with that is I in the future once I’m off P’s I would be wanting to upgrade it anyway. So really, buying and RB20DE or RB25DE would be sort of useless in my book. It’s only just a thought because I’m able to purchase the 1J off my dad for about 2k complete with everything because yah know, father son prices. That’s a pretty good price from what I can see and it got me thinking whether I could just “convert” it to be “naturally aspirated” in turn saving me money, rather than buying an RB which I would end up replacing anyway. So yeah, all I want to know is if it is possible to convert it. 
     

    thanks.

  9. 1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

    Just wait until you are off your Ps.

    Yeah mate true, but I was just thinking that because it’s a shell and I’ve got to put something into it anyway, why not that. Because it would save me a bit of time and money in the long run I feel, in terms of upgrading it to what I want.  But yeah just gotta find out if it’s possible.

  10. Okay guys, so originally I was planning on putting an NA Barra into my R33. However,my dad has a 1jz gte lying around in the garage with pretty much everything there for it, including the r154 gearbox. Im pretty interested in buying it off him and putting it into the R33, but the problem is that I’m just getting onto my P plates haha. 

     I was wondering if there would be any problems taking this from a TT motor to an NA. I know there are a few oil drains including the one on the block and the sump which are for the turbo and would need to be blocked, but also some other things I wouldn’t really know about hahaWiring and the fabrication stuff is not really a problem, because I know people who can do that for me. I know it does seem odd, but I was just wondering if anyone has something to add or give me any tips or share some insightful knowledge. 

    thanks guys.

  11. 20 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

    They are very similar, but I don't think this has been done before/information is readily available.

    I know there are *SOME* differences in arms between a 33 and a 34 in the front. Ostensibly they are different for 'some reason' but I don't know if the front subframe is the reason for it. I have bent knuckles and front arms before and found out that the 34 ones have curves in them where the 33 ones are straight. But you also have things like 33 coils fitting in 34's and vice versa (at the front only) and sway bars (I think)

    34 coupe and sedan are the same at the front, but as the front subframes generally dont get uh, broken? It's not something that generally gets swapped between cars..

    Oh okay, thank you for the information. It’s just because I’m looking to get my r33 on some wheels and came across an r34 front subframe complete, for a reasonable price and was just seeing if they were compatible with the R33 haha.

     

    thank you though :)

  12. Just now, GTSBoy said:

    Yes. That would be the same 5 speed as the S13, basically.

    The 6 speed should bolt up to an S13's SR, but I won't make any promises on it fitting gearbox mounts, shifter holes, etc, because I don't know for sure. But it should be able to be made to work.

    Okay thanks mate. I was just looking into some gearbox options and found that I’m potentially going to upgrade later so I might as well stick with the oem stuff until I upgrade the engine. Thank you very much 

  13. Hi guys, I just came across a complete front subframe assembly for an r34, the title of the ad just says r34 so I’m presuming it’s a coupe. I have an R33 at home and was wondering if the r34 front subframe assembly will bolt straight into the r33. Im looking to do this with relatively little modification of its needed, also does anyone know if it will throw off the geometry of the car or if it’s okay to be doing this. Thank you very much if you’s can help guys :).

  14. 8 minutes ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

    The gsb hubs are fairly cheap and come complete with studs, bearing etc, so is worth doing, if you’re going to track it, you should get the adjustable arms, the hard race stuff is fairly cheap, but just Jap do their own called zzs or zzr, something like that, I’ve heard it’s made at the same factory as the hard race stuff but it’s a little cheaper. 
    best thing is go through that parts list shooter posted and start looking up stuff and see what options you have for your car. If you get stuck or are unsure about something, ask here, someone will be able to help 

    770A3A0C-ED8F-4F5A-BA9F-59F123DE8759.jpeg

    AA0316B6-E260-4762-B795-0746ECD81EAD.jpeg

    E8B5D40F-E0A4-4548-ADAB-9A2A380A88E6.jpeg

    Okay thank you very much for the info, I’ll definitely make sure to look through that list. Thank you very much 

  15. 3 minutes ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

    Are you building it back to standard or did you want to modify/improve it? 
    Im building a rear end for my R32. I’m using Whiteline bushes and sway bar, GSB hubs and hard race adjustable arms, that is, lower control arm, camber arms and traction rods. I’m not sure if your car has HICAS but Ive ordered the GK Tech hicas elimination kit for mine 

    Hey mate, well I really just want to take it back to standard and maybe improve a few things here and there, but keep it relatively stock. I’m trying to build my R33 as a daily driver/good street car that I could take to a track or race if I felt like it, if you know what I mean.

    anything else to add to the checklist old man 32 Gtr?

  16. 3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

    You need, at least;

    Knuckles/uprights, lower control arms, upper control arms, traction rods, dampers, springs, hubs, brakes, subframe to chassis bushes, diff bushes, handbrake cables, hydraulic brake lines, upper and lower balljoints, wheel bearings, any bushes that don't come with whatever arms you buy.

    You quite possibly need all the fasterners for subframe to chassis, diff to subframe, arms to subframe, brakes to uprights.

    You can buy aftermarket arms, brakes, bushes etc, but you will need original parts for a lot of the above list.

    You probably should just buy a complete subframe, with suspension arms etc, to make sure you can get your hands on all the things that you don't have that you probably can't easily get individually.

    Thank you very much for that list. Well if the price is right and i have enough money, i am willing to pay for complete subframe. Thanks again mate.

  17. 11 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

    So you don't even have hubs? Well, the list is easy. You need everything that you can't see.

    Earth straps are exactly what they sound like. Braided wire strap with eyelet crimped on each end. Used for linking things like subframes to the chassis for electrical continuity purposes.

    Yeah i pretty much have nothing. The problem is, i dont know the exact names of everything i cant see haha, could you just point me in the right direction or provide a little list if thats all goods. 

  18. 17 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

    What do you want to but for it? Paint? Bushes? Arms? Brakes? Diff? Driveshafts? Earth straps?

    Well the rear subframe is bare, so i'm looking to do the whole lot, paint, bushes, arms, brakes, rods etc; apart from the diff and driveshaft. Also, what are earth straps if you don't mind me asking haha?

    Thank you for replying

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