phelbas
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Posts posted by phelbas
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Anyone have an OEM front diff sitting around they want to convert into cash?
send PM, quick response.
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This plastic cover comes in two variations one for regular R34s with ATTESA and one for v-spec and v-spec 2.
After this one from wrecker or whatever.
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what i have left;
1. Japanese origin R34 spoiler blade like Nismo. Not adjustable. Good quality carbon. - $510 on ebay
6. Trust Greddy Type R blow off valve - VGC - $300 on ebay
9. HKS Step2 stroker h-beam rod set 2304-RN006 - $990 on ebay
10. R34 driver dash plastic surround - small hole drilled - $50 on ebay
14. R34 GTR front OEM diffuser - Good condition - $700 - not listed anywhere else PM for pictures.
15. R34 OEM trunk gas struts - 20 years old, one is weaker, still holds fine - $150
16. R34 aftermarket trunk struts - NEW - from Facebook user @R34 GTR MFD - $100
* Take 15% off of any "on ebay" price listed above
19. Stealth catch can, replaces water bottle (pictures above) - $100
20. Clifford alarm G5 WIZNET programming lead cable kit - $50
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40 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
That's what I'm talking about fixing. A panel beater can make that look good.
Ah cool, Wasn't aware they can do that kind of work. Of course they can if they can remove hail damage!
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2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
The lower rail can probably be quite satisfactorily straightened in situ.
yeah it could be bent back if its even lifted but the visible underside denting and marks are bothering me. I am at the stage of identifying and replacing non oem bolts and plastic trim fasteners, so this is sort of a blot.
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2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Yes. A dildo did that.
no kidding.
sigh.
I ordered a new one with what seems to be a very low shipping price from usa ($100). Hope it gets here without being bent in transit.
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8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
As in - it's not a crossmember. It's the whole front panel - just the bottom edge of it.
thanks
so someone jacked up the front of the car putting it under this piece ?
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unfortunately not in picture there is a flattish cross member just forward of this picture (just above the top of it), the bottom of the radiator is mounted to it. From the nose of the car it is the first solid cross member one can see
Mine is dented I suspect from some id**t using a trolley jack.
What is the name or part number of this cross member so I can look it up?
thanks
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For R34 GTR or R33 GTR
see: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Windshield-Washer-Tank-Bracket-For-Nissan-Skyline-R33-R34-GTR-/123829915445
$55 shipped domestic.
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Garage Yoshida has these types of pictures and videos - but here is a UK one:
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the entire map light module can be pulled out with fingernails but how to get the center dome light module out with the least risk of breaking anything? I really do not want to dig around at the side of the lens with a screwdriver unless I have done it once already...
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I accidentally bought a second one of these. So now I have a spare.
It took ages to arrive, and the cost from Amayama was $51.68 + postage.
Someone take it off my hands, happy to send it for $60 total paid via paypal or bank deposit.
Why is it revised?
The bracket has been updated to be in steel and not the plated (bronze looking) steel that reacts over time with the bodywork, especially given its location (spills and so on) and can create rust. Two bolts, move the bottle aside, swap and done..
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3 hours ago, PranK said:
What do you tow? Can't see the Santa Fe being able to pull the skin off soup.
it has a 2000kg tow rating, the GC had a 3500kg tow rating. Luckily I do not want to tow anything anymore.
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On 21/08/2020 at 5:20 PM, 260DET said:
A friend of mine has a petrol Cherokee now up to 130,000 k and absolutely no problems at all.
I sold my grand cherokee diesel (which was a cracking tug) for no good reason and bought a santa fe and wow do I regret it. Creaks like an old pirate ship and the 4 cylinder offers barely any economy advantage over the GC 6, perhaps 1-2 liters/100 but only on long distance drives, makes an unpleasant noise, is gutless on any hill and has throttle lag like you would not believe.
Drive in the country and see the next most popular tow car for caravans after a prado is a GC.
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1. Japanese origin R34 spoiler blade like Nismo. Not adjustable. Good quality carbon. - $510 on ebay
2. R34 GTR genuine OEM audio - CD + tape (two single din units) - $600 on ebay
3. Stoptech st40+st22 bigger brake kit for R34 - VGC no wear - $3000 on ebay4. R34 trunk trim: oem spare wheel cover - NEW - $670 on ebay
5. Ganador carbon led super mirrors - VVVVGC - $3500 on ebay
6. Trust Greddy Type R blow off valve - VGC - $300 on ebay
8. Nismo 20 piece wheel nut set - New in Box - 34mm - RN810 - $200
9. HKS Step2 stroker h-beam rod set 2304-RN006 - $1750 on ebay
10. R34 driver dash plastic surround - VGC - $50 on ebay
11. R33 Hicas unit complete assembly (R34 compatible) - $100 on ebay
12. OEM R34 tail-lights pair - VVGC - $750 on ebay
13. ARC Titanium strut brace - As New - $3000 on Facebook marketplace
14. R34 GTR front OEM diffuser - Good condition - $700 - not listed anywhere else PM for pictures.
15. R34 OEM trunk gas struts - 20 years old, one is weaker, still holds fine - $150
16. R34 aftermarket trunk struts - NEW - from Facebook user @R34 GTR MFD - $100
17. GTR MFD replacement Toshiba screen: $300, replacement sharp screen: $250
* Take 15% off of any "on ebay" price listed above
NEW:
18. HKS Knock amp, HKS Boost controller - late November
19. Stealth catch can, replaces water bottle (pictures above) - $100
20. Clifford alarm G5 WIZNET programming lead cable kit - $50
21. R34 GTR Series 2 Xenon headlights pair, lens polished, UV coated - late November
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7 minutes ago, HCD Velcra said:
I wish we had such plates in Germany and I dont think theyre that huge. Before you go for something like "I tried to get as near as possible" with some optical aspects, Id definately take a simple basic white shit plate - cause they dont stick into your eye like something that doesnt fit
you dont want “myplates” in germany, the government here sold the plate making franchise gold mine - probably to a family friend of a retired politician - in an opaque deal.
i think you might be right. white on black has the smallest plate options, and probably the least likely to look like a near miss
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no idea, someone else hopefully knows
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wire brush, clean, then paint on some rust guard rust converter, then repaint in white rust guard epoxy enamel ?
then get a pair of those strut tower protector discs from JL in west australia, that stop the bar from cutting into the paint, or cut your own out
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22 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:
Why make a private company richer?
100% Agree, so I am trying by sticking to the $109/year options.
16 hours ago, HCD Velcra said:Both seem pretty gay, but the black background is better.
Why not going for bronze if the rims are too?
No bronze options. I think.
5 hours ago, UWISSH! said:But then when u decided to change wheels you also need to change the plates
This isn't gonna change. At least not while I keep the car.
The best plate size for the rear of an R34 is the "international size" but not sure any will go the black/bronze/gold theme of the car. Also "international size" means a huge front plate
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the white car the family of banana joes in marrickville, supercar advocates, listed, last for $399k, is now off the market, or sold
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Black, on metallic gold background
or ... Metallic gold, on black background
Other options: JDM style plate.
Plate number just an example.
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answering my own question here for completeness, the transponder tray if it slides out at all perhaps needs some kind of tool to compress the sides.
Here is a tray and chip I found in my old alarm system - to allow remote start to work. It was contained in a box with relays, a coil round the chip and a booster antenna.
A red color means non crypto transponder chip however cloning them away from the car is a black art. A “prepared” but blank chip is needed, the spare key I purchased ages ago turned out not to have a chip in it at all!
r34 of the era is NATS2 (NATS1 did not use a transponder chip) obviously a new key can be programmed by Nissan Consult but some of the right key programming tools may also work for cloning. I think in locksmith terms the transponder type is ID41
The way I dug the tray out was by damaging the visible part and pulling with needle nose pliers.
I still have no idea how to remove the tray correctly.
anyway because my Japan installed alarm had a spare chip in it, I am good. The locksmith (mistermint) wanted to charge $90 to code a blank chip but his device did not give him a clone option using the working key.
WTB - pinion and ring final drive gear of a BNR34 front 3.54 differential or complete diff
in Wanted to Buy
Posted
thanks, I'm in Sydney.
The stock r34 GTR ratio is 3.545, 39/11