BiggestRon22
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Posts posted by BiggestRon22
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Hey everyone, I was doing some research to see what type of lights which housing uses and my understanding is the Xenon housing uses D2R lights and the non Xenon uses H1 lights.
do I have my info right?
I only ask because I’m looking to get different housings to make custom lights and can’t really find anything specific enough!
thanks in advance!
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On 6/4/2022 at 4:52 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Same plug 😎
Siiiiick thank you man!
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Hopefully looking for a quick answer because I’ve tried to find it online but can’t!
I’m looking at local r8 coil pack and harness but it’s for a s2 rb25 and don’t know if it’ll work with the neo, mostly asking because I can get it for a lot cheaper than a “brand new” set
anything helps, Thanks!
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Hello everyone I have an rs4s and I’m looking for a new clutch, one of friends is selling a nismo clutch with no flywheel for 500$ and was just wondering if I can use an aftermarket flywheel or if I need to use a Nismo one, going to be doing a very light drag/street build so any info is greatly appreciated, if there’s any clutch for maybe 600-700$ Please send me the link so I can check it out 🙏🙏
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On 3/28/2022 at 4:23 PM, GTSBoy said:
In all seriousness, near new 11th gen i7 15" laptops go for ~$500 (plus some costs) at auctions all the time. You'd be mad to go to bookface ripoffplace which is where people who buy them from the auctions resell them for a profit.
Damn didn’t know that, will be checking the auctions soon then!
On 3/29/2022 at 1:30 PM, czeno said:My RS4 had boost leakage at the throttle body rubber union, it was hardened by time & heat. Perked up a bit after sorting that. A bit later head gasket failed, hmmm. That teardown also revealed exhaust manifold warpage (leakage was un audible). Different beast now.
Ahhh yeah I don’t doubt I have a few leaks goin on, gunna check my throttle body and manifold/turbo gasket soon!
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On 3/27/2022 at 8:15 PM, GTSBoy said:
I’ll be checking marketplace pretty quick here hahaha
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On 3/27/2022 at 7:59 PM, Ben C34 said:
Any laptop will run tuning software, the required specs are so small they don't even factor in.
Buying a power fc because you can't figure out how to buy a laptop is pretty out there.
Honestly thought they needed more power hahaha
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On 3/27/2022 at 8:20 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
I always say this on Guild of EFI on Facebook, if the laptop can load up pornhub then it will load up any modern tuning software.
1920x1080 screen is good.
Lmaoo fair enough honestly thought the tuning software would use a bit more power, shows how much I know I guess hahaha
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On 3/27/2022 at 12:35 AM, Ben C34 said:
Nistune mate. Hand controller in 2022 is a f**king joke. Don't you have a laptop?
nah, actually only have a desktop pc. been lookin for a laptop so i could tune eventually but hard to find one that isnt complete garbage is hard.
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On 3/25/2022 at 6:09 PM, GTSBoy said:
This could be what is driving the boost drop, because the stock boost pressure is about 5 psi (on the spring) and the solenoid bleeds it up to about 7.
Yeah I’m gunna have to guess that’s it’s the solenoid because it starts at 7 then goes to 5 then sticks at 5 so it’s like it’s runnin stock pressure all the time, thinking of getting one of the manual boost controllers too see if that helps at all but would rather fix it so it stays at 7 before that.
On 3/25/2022 at 6:09 PM, GTSBoy said:Definite potential cause of problems. Get rid of it. You don't need it. There is Nistune in the world.
Still debating on a power fc or nistune, the plug and play with the hand controller is a big plus to me, and For nistune I’d have to drive 6 hours to get the board installed and hope they can get it done and tuned in one day cause it’s my daily driver hahaha
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Hello, I have a s2 rs4s stagea and I’ve been noticing issues with my boost after installing a gauge for it.
when I start the car up, let it warm up and then drive I usually get around 8ish pounds but after driving it for a bit or getting the 8psi in 4th gears it’s like my boost gets cut in half and it will only run around 4psi which is a very noticeable difference.
im just confused because I haven’t done really anything to the car other than an exhaust and one of the fuel cut defencer, I also have my bov to atmosphere at the moment and was going to see if having it recirc would help or just blocking it off again like i originally had it. I’ve heard things about the boost solenoid and the lines for it but unsure which spot I’d need to look in.
any info helps greatly!!
thanks in advance-Ron
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On 2/22/2022 at 1:09 PM, Duncan said:
Apexi PowerFC is much cheaper than haltech or link and is plug and play, and has a display/handcontroller that allows monitoring and changing tune without a laptop. It has more than enough functions to run mild to medium modified street cars.
However, the cost of tuning the an ECU your tuner is not familiar with will likely be more than you save on the ECU purchase price, so check first
I’ll shoot a message to the guy that would be tuning my car if he knows how to work the power fc and if he’s unfamiliar with it I might shoot for the nistune.
On 2/22/2022 at 3:15 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:Nistune, does flex fuel, launch control, soft/hard limiters, super basic engine protection
Is the nistune a relatively simple tuning interface? I’m assuming that would keep cost lower if my tuner isn’t used to it of course.
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I’ve looked around and saw ecu masters as a cheaper alternative for an ecu rather than haltech or link, only issues I’ve really come across is it possibly using the wrong connector for the plug and play adapter, I’m hoping not to do any wiring myself and I’ve heard the neos use the grey connectors and have different pin layout.
if there is a cheaper plug and play ecu than a haltech or link please shoot me in the right directions as All I can find is the ecu master with the wrong connector!
thanks in advance!
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On 2/17/2022 at 1:59 PM, tylink720 said:
Right in the middle lol, Manitoba
Ahh I see haha
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On 2/17/2022 at 12:04 PM, tylink720 said:
We've gotten clapped with snow this winter, so Ill likely only be taking it out in May
Are you on the east or west coast?
I’m on the west and seems to be okay for snow now but yeah did get a pretty big dump of it this year -
On 2/16/2022 at 4:15 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Just warning you
At the end of the day it's up to you if you want to lunch your motor! If you were wiring this to a 1JZ or 2JZ then it wouldn't be so bad, but everyone knows on this forum aggressive rev limiter & stock RB motors don't mix.
And yes, it's a Haltech - I personally prefer working with them however what you like is very subjective. I prefer the user interface vs. say of a Link. Sure Link has more features, however most of the features most people (including myself) don't really need.
It's like getting a flashy MoTec then not running traction, DBW, inputting telemetry, fuel modelling, etc.
Ahhhh fair enough man man thank you for that, yeah I know what you mean the jzs definitely can take more of a beating than the rbs haha, won’t be doin it more than like 10 times over a few months cause yeah proper ecu is the way to go.
yeah I’ve been looking at ecus and can’t really decide, I really like how the haltechs do have the simpler interface and from what I know a lot of tuners know how to tune them as well, but yeah definitely looking at the link mostly because it would be cheaper and does the same thing but mostly just for the price, first pick was a haltech so maybe I’ll bite the bullet and save up a little bit more so if I need to go in there and do a small tweak it’s not like opening Pandora’s box yknow hahah.
also I’m looking at the plug and play ecus from link and haltech, I’m guessing the platinum pro would do just fine even tho they are older, not completely looking for the launch control and the other trinkets the elite 2000/2500 has but with that said the link I believe has those features for the same price. Guessing it’s more which one I want more but wouldn’t mind getting some extra options on the three ecus (again it’d be the haltech platinum pro/elite2000 or the link g4x)
as I keep saying thank you for all the info man!
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On 2/16/2022 at 3:22 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Skip the Bee R, just sell it.
See screen grab below, there's no way a Bee R gives you this kind of control.
Not necessarily looking for control atm because my car is essential stock with a modified exhaust and no cats, just looking for some fun for a moment even if it hurts the motor
probably sounds quite dumb and honestly won’t disagree cause it 100% is but I don’t mind, I enjoy doin the stupid things even with the risks, cut up my intake last week and didn’t know if I was gunna get my car on the road for work hahah.
Also probably will sell it, I’m getting it for quite cheap so don’t mind letting it go eventually but do plan on puttin in other cars later on!
also I’m guessing that was pulled from a haltech?? Just wondering because it looks like a very simple interface and trying to decide going haltech or link ecu when the time comes! And yes do plan on the bang bangs with the proper ecu and tune! Just been something I always liked to hear.also thank you again and prolly will keep thanking y’all for the info, I’m young and dumb so everything helps me learn!
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On 2/16/2022 at 12:12 PM, Ben C34 said:
Surely you wouldn't actually do it?
What do you gain, vs the known risks. Definitely doesn't add up.
For me it’s truly just for fun, no real gain power or longevity wise but would like to have a good smile and give my friends a scare lol, I guess I should’ve mention I already know it’s not good for motors and just doin it for some fun!
with that said also don’t plan on keepin it in my car and plan for an ecu to have a more proper limiter than the bee*r and more control of the car, mostly for some good fun then switch it over to some rust bucket for more fun haha
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On 2/16/2022 at 2:53 PM, GTSBoy said:
Listen to this man ^, and the man in the other thread, and also don't start multiple threads on the same website for the same question.
Bee R's are dumb engine destroyers.
Do apologize for making multiple posts kinda thought having it in different sections would be okay cause different people would be seeing it rather than the stag section that sees 1 or 2 posts a month, and yeah as I said don’t plan on using it much cause I don’t plan on blowing the thing but don’t mind hurting the motor a lil bit. (Would like to do a rebuild on it anyways) Do appreciate the info tho cause yah helps me out a lot as I’m still learning!
thanks again guys!
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On 2/16/2022 at 2:24 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
in the sump, oil pump and head when your stock oil pump grenades from the violent and uncontrolled ignition cuts caused by the Bee R oil pump, valve train destroyer.
I'll be honest with you, if you want bang bangs - get a proper ECU where you can gradually cut ignition and also inject more fuel in to cool down your valve train + make the bangs bangs (if you desire). Those Bee R things are just horrid, absolutely just garbage.
Ahhh fair enough thank you for that! Already got the limiter comin In and don’t plan on using much and do plan on the ecu to do that stuff later on just waiting till I have more parts for the ecu
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Just wondering if anyone here has put in a bee*r limiter into there rs4s or any car running an rb25 neo and neo ecu, only asking because from what I’ve found online the s2 an neo pinouts are slightly different? (Correct me if I’m wrong of course) also buying a bee*r but it’s second hand so I don’t think it’ll come with any installation papers so any advice is greatly appreciated!
Apologies if this has been asked and answered before, I haven’t been able to find much out but maybe I’m searching the wrong terms. Either way definitely looking for any help!
Also if there’s a neo pin out sheet as well as what each wire does for the bee*r because as I stated I believe it won’t be coming with any sort of instructions so info on what each wire means and where it should hopefully go to is extremely appreciated!
still tryna learn as much as I can about rbs and all the little bits with it so even little bits of info is amazing!
Thanks again!
Ron.
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Just wondering if anyone here has put in a bee*r limiter into there rs4s or any car running an rb25 neo and neo ecu, only asking because from what I’ve found online the s2 an neo oinouts are slightly different? (Correct me if I’m wrong of course) also buying a bee*r but it’s second hand so I don’t think it’ll come with any installation papers so any advice is greatly appreciated!
i will be asking one of the other sections in the forums so if you see this post twice sorry for that haha.
Thanks again!
Ron
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On 1/22/2022 at 6:19 PM, QLDR31 said:
For the brains trust:
So if the exhaust had mufflers and the bov was hooked up would he still have the same issues? I thought if you were adding a cat back or turbo back aftermarket back exhaust things would run alright with a bit more power. I still have the boost restrictor maybe that would help things?
I drove an old R31 skyline for a lot of years with a drony 3" exhaust. Adding an extra muffler was the best thing I ever did. But i'm old.
Invest in ear muffs and save up for defects
Yeah I’m thinking if the mufflers were still in and bov doing what it’s supposed to it would be fine, but I also thought just freeing up the exhaust wouldn’t be enough to cause the cut. Definitely thinking of putting the bov back on to see what happens but I did notice with my butt dyno the car felt a lot faster but then the cuts started happening too.
love the r31s man, sure it didn’t sound too bad with the mufflers but I know what you mean lol adding a muffler or two just makes the sounds that little bit better.had to buy a pack of earplugs when I had my Lexus, started to notice my ears ringing after I drove it a few times.
have been quite lucky with Cops in my decatted cars somehow
don’t know how cause one of em use to set off car alarms!
On 1/22/2022 at 7:41 PM, joshuaho96 said:Don't decat street cars, end of story.
Yeah I think for my next car I’ll just get highflow cats instead of test pipes, just like the cheapness of the test pipes cause some highflow cats can get really expensive.
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On 1/21/2022 at 9:09 PM, GTSBoy said:
Well, yes, because I can't imagine living with a stupidly loud unmuffled exhaust for long anyway. But if you want it stupidly loud and unmuffled, then you could just fit a 2" orifice plate into one of the flanges to cause some restriction, or choe the turbo inlet down, or something, to reduce flow. Then when you fix the management problem, you retain the stupidly loud unmuffled exhaust.
I go on about the stupidly loud unmuffled exhaust a bit, because......hearing damage. I have it. Wanna know how I got it?
Yeah sadly I’m one of the guys that like it loud, but I will definitely be considering putting at least one muffler in there to make it sound a little smoother and less raspy up top.
Guessing it was the loud exhaust that did the damage, I definitely understand where you’re coming from so I do my best to have all the noise be coming completely out the back and not anywhere near me, I had a ls400 and had it dumping from the headers because I didn’t think it was loud enough at first, very quickly realized that was dumb and had to drive home with ear plugs because I have a 30 minute commute back.
On 1/21/2022 at 10:02 PM, Duncan said:So the FCD is cheapest way to address your immediate problem (other than putting the original exhaust back on) but it has a narrow range that it can help with. You should still probably run in on the dyno after install to be certain everything is OK so that is another couple of hundred. I picked up about 20kw back in the day when I put the FCD on with 3psi extra boost (10 instead of 7psi)
An SAFC is a much more flexible choice than a FCD and it is probably able to deal with all the changes you listed. Again, you really need to set it up on a dyno to be sure everything is safe and it will take a little longer because there is more the set up.
But, through 20 years of doing this and watching other people doing this...I can say 99% once you have done all your current plans, you will put on a bigger turbo, need bigger injectors and a new (or deleted) air flow meter and at that point you need an ECU.
I have a Link on my Stagea and Haltech on the GTR, the Link does everything a street car needs and is cheaper (actually for that matter a PowerFC is way cheaper than either and does everything most people need) - but if you are going this route what really matters is what your tuner prefers because their time to tune something they are not familiar with will cost way more than any difference in purchase price
I plan is to run around 450hp so I’ll definitely look into the link ecu and PowerPC, currently trying to find out what my local tuner prefers but they’re moving so can’t get much info.
Definitely do plan on the bigger turbo once I have a fuel pump, injectors, r35 coils and arp head studs, I’m mostly looking at the hypergear turbos because I’ve heard pretty good things about them and will either start with an external waste gate high flow stock turbo rated for 400-500 or just get an aftermarket turbo from them both would be similar rating and would have all the added goodies to them. I will be a bunch of other upgrades before I do my turbo because I’d rather over build than not and have things blow, don’t plan on doing a whole rebuild until I want to go past the 450 mark
also thank you both for the insight this has been very helpful for me as I’m 19 and still have a lot to learn!
don’t know how cause one of em use to set off car alarms!
S2 xenon vs non xenon
in Wagoneers
Posted
Awesome! Thank you for the replies, gunna pick up a set of housings soon and take a crack at it!