timmy94

Which turbo's are you guys running on your sr20det's? Im looking at the: -GARRETT GT2871R (0,64AR) - $1350 -GARRETT GT2560R - $1050 -GARRETT GBC22-350 - $850 Im curious about the GBC22-350, anyone tried it? I currently have a built sr20det (top (cams, springs, solid lifters etc) and bottom(rods, pistions, coated bearings, headgasket and main/head studs)) but dont wanna run any crazy numbers, only safe numbers to get the car running again. I also dont wanna break the gearbox since i will be running the standard gearbox (5speed).

Thanks. Thats what i thought, the brand whiteline itself seems Sketchy and bad. Which one did you use for the subframe?

Since my hicas balljoints are completely gone, i guess i should consider hicas delete kit instead of replacement of the balljoints. Surprised when i saw that The balljoints was Almost as expansive as the full hicas delete kit.

Whiteline is the only option for the 4 subframe bushes? Cant really find anything Else and nismo dont have them at all. isnt whiteline a really shitty poly bushing?

as always Thanks guys.. where can i get the oem rubbers? But Will probably go for nismo ones then. Im going through an overhaul/inspection/restauration and i would be grateful for some tips on some good places to buy these kind of stuff.

Would you see an upgrade/replacement of OEM bushings on the R32 GTR as an ”bad” upgrade on an Almost complete oem/untouched r32 gtr? im going through an inspection an removed the subframe. Thought that an replacement of some of the rubber bushings to whitline or nismo (as close to oem as possible) could be an good idea but i dont want to Replace to much on an Almost oem car. would you leave the old in or change them? Would a car like this ”decrease its value” if i replaced bushings on the car?

I need a clutch to handle my twin gt28-5 turbos. how is the OS Giken TS3B Triple Plate Clutch Kit to drive on street and would this one kill my thrust bearings?

How do you do with the lambdasensor? from factory there is 2, right behind each turbo. Do i plug these and place my new one further down where the 2 elbows connect to 1? and only use one input/connector? Usually they say that you shouldnt put the sensor so close to the turbos. i bought a lambdasensor AEM kit including controller. There is only one lambda sensor in here. 1 sensor or 2? can i even run 2 with the AEM controller kit. Is it better to rum 2 lambdasensor on each elbow?

Thanks for all your lovely answers. im little confused still about this sensor. the oem fpr is enough to deal with from what i know and i want to replace as few things as possible. The police is very picky also, they literally tried to bring mates car dowm by claiming there isnt the oem brake fluid or something stupid. But i also want a relaible car. Idk if my Old link G4 ecu can read fuel pressure. If it can, i guess i plug it to the ecu? By a 'T" connection into the fuel pressure side between filter and rail? if i cant i guess i place a gauge in the flightdeck so i can keep an eye on the fuel pressure? are these cars so sensitive? i mean, an old volvo, opel or whatever can run dry on fuel, run forever with no oil change or run jet diesel without issues. Can drive forever with broken lambda sensor etc haha!

Just curious about the fuel pump people uses? Is there any worse and better ones? I got a Deatschwerk in my Silvia, which worked alright. Im looking at Walbro F90000267 450 LPH for my R32 GT-R. I guy had a WALBRO from a GTR thats been scrapped. I think its a 450lhp, i could get it for free almost since it just sitting there for no use anymore, but im not sure about to buy used fuel pumps. It works and everything, but mabye its risky to put that my car?

well, sorry. Maybe you are right. No my friend bought it for 10k 5 years ago. Rebuilt engine and turbos and other stuff for 10k and then i bought it after that for 10k or okey, maybe more like 11k to be exactly.. Yeah, maybe i am a crying baby..

HAHA, no actually did not. Well, the car wasnt perfect condition but not whistlindiesel condition. Little bit of rust on a few spots and not the best paint but the rust will be fixed and the paint is going for re-paint anyway. I

How long ago was that? Which car do you dive?

I paid 10k for it. It been sitting in my friends garage since a few years back. Actually right before the price increase in 2018? I helped him to fix the engine and so, but he never drove it. So i bought it of him for 10k where the engine is new built, turbos are new, injectors been serviced. Not perfect body condition has some rust, but was planning to fix that anyway.

Well, it seems like the auction dealers in japan did not sell any cars at all, at the auctions.. cause people suddenly dont pay for them. So they have a bunch of cars now they cant get rid off.

and the prices on JDM and even GT-R are dropping back to where they were? I bought a R32 GT-R with new engine and turbos for $10k for 3 months ago or something. A car that i bought now because i got the opportunity from a friend and i thought if i dont buy this one, i will never ever afford a GT-R probably. Now im sitting here like a f**king dick head, watching these youtbers talking about jdm market are dropping again and how people think they are overpriced. I mean old muscle cars etc are daaamn alot more expensive. I dont understand why supra, GTR ans sklvias would drop lile this. Well, i did a f**king mistake

"ran out"? 80,90,100% duty cycle?

What is the cause to the lower voltage in these fuelpumps?

I actually dont know what happend, it did sound wierd when the tuner talked to me. They used a few liters of oil also and i asked why. They claimed they tried to find the oil leak afterward which sounds wierd cause the whole filter houseing and everything had came off so it was a big hole in the block where the filter sits. Sounds wierd that they had to fill the engine with oil to find that "small" leak..

Sounds fair. I dont now if the this Link G4 i found is working in a condition or not, but since i could get it so cheap i guess it could be worth a try. I think i will have 12month warranty anyway. I talked to a tuner again. -> " With these turbos you will use the OEM wastegate actuators on these turbos so the boost pressure will not change UNTIL we do the ECU tuning through an EBCS"These turbos are great for stock engines and do NOT need to be at 1.5 bar boost. Once you have the support ECU,sensor,injectors/pump the bone stock RB26 is very happy/making great power yet conservatively/safe at 15-18psi (1.1-1.3 bar) with pump gas. (I've tuned a lot of RB's over the years and the stock engines are still quite strong and ready for boost with the supporting mods/tuning/decent fuel) ". So seems to be an option there also. I simply have to find the best solution here for me, i will see what i can do with these -5 turbos. Otherwise, i will sell them and maybe get some -7 turbos if they arent too expensive. Thanks for sharing some thoughts and tips.

I did not want to tune this GT-R car because i do not trust tuners here haha. First time i tuned my S15 SR20 i had issues ever since with warnings with fuel ( Fuel cut almost everytime i put pedal to metal, they couldnt find a solution and i ended up spending alot of money on parts they told me to change like pumps, injectors, filters etc etc, but did not find the problem until i found it myself). 2ND time, for some reason they did not notice that the oil pressure was lost in time and the engine ran long enough to destroy everything. This ECU had saftey features/options/mechanism (idk, but i belive you understand) that could stop the engine as soon as oil level dropped or something else but for some reason they did not use any of those features? i dont know if that saftey thing could help in that situation but i got a bit dissapointed even though i was my fault, i should have checked the brackets for cracks. (The oilpressre was lost due to oilfilter became a bit loose from its bracket cause the bracket had a crack in it.) well, thats was my goal to run everything standard for now until i have a better garage and when i know the car runs fine. BUT, since im in the situation i am right now, im trying to do the right thing. I could run the HKS ones and still get a tuneable ecu to make sure that everything is working fine since i clearly dont know whats been done to this engine so i do not run with a wierd and dangerous settings. Thanks

Okey. Its the headache i want to skip on this build. Just want as simple build as possible so i can drive around the street buy some ice cream, do some roadtrips and just enjoy the car as it is. A bit more power wouldnt hurt but nothing more too fancy shit here, since the Silvia S15 went a bit crazy. I will try to read through the forum as much as possible.

I think i was clear about -5, but idk.. Hks couldnt identify them by the plate.. still figuring out which ones it is. It has a little play in shaft but idk whats accepteble cause all turbos seems to have a bit of play when there is no oil pressure. There is no chafings in the housings.. Ok. So its either stick with these turbo run 300kw, new injectors and pump + link ecu Or Send the hks ones for service check and put link ecu on the car and dont bother of anything else. I guess the link ecu is a good option either way

Yes i know its replacement ecu but ive heard that some verisions of those were not good at all. Was just curious what you thought about them Thanks 😄 The g4 card.

Okok. Well there is some kind of 3" or 3.5" exhaust with 5" blitz muffler on. Intercooler is standard on mine, as well as bov etc.. How does that power fc work? And trigger upgrade, isnt that necessary? I talked to the guy with the G4 Link, i could get it for 450 instead of 500, seems fair for that ecu?