Chi-Town

Little bit of an update as the summer heat really slows things down here in SoCal. Picked up a bunch of Ohlins coil overs from Japan. One set of R33 GT-R single adjustable PCV (?), One set of R33 GT-R double adjustable (DFV?), and set of C34 Stagea rears. For the record the C34 rears are about an inch (~25mm) longer than the R33 rears but it seems to be all body length, stroke looks the same. The top mounts are different also. Got the R34 rear subframe back, waiting on the Nismo bits to arrive to complete that project. I've amassed a pile of 26RS clusters at this point but still looking for a Dolphin speedometer if anyone has it laying around? Also looking for the 260RS Tunnel Brace if you have one sitting on a shelf? other than that just playing with the wife's Cappuccino till more parts arrive.

I was thinking the auto ECU sees drive/reverse, the neutral/park is only for the starter circuit correct?

I'm curious to see what you find on this. I had this same thing happen in a S13 that I had converted to manual years ago. I replaced the IACV but never got it to behave properly. I always wondered if the ECU is looking for an "in gear" signal opposed to just being in neutral all the time (signal wise). In the Suby ECUs it would not use the correct mapping until it saw it was in gear. It still ran/drove fine but was never quite 100%.

@S1_C34 Yeah I'm seeing a lot of talk on social media about the 260RS's and the prices are already going up in Japan. My Stagea is a KR4 97' RS-Four V and unfortunately it's stuck in Japan till the end of November as it's a 12/97 production. Be careful on YAJ with the tails as I've seen a lot of broken mounting studs on some of them. Call Colton up at Boost factory right across the border from you he's been parting out a lot of S2's and has reasonable prices. I just got a bunch of stuff from him. Update on my progress: Picked up an R34 rear subframe/suspension assembly with diff (anyone need a V-Spec diff?) and axles for cheap. Stripped it down for new bushings and a bit of powder coating. Going to have the uprights vapor blasted. Getting ready to order the Nismo suite of links and bushings. I refuse to run spherical ends on street cars (wear/noise) and poly is just a bit to much NVH for an old man like me. I'm still up in the air on brakes. I know I can run the Z33 Brembo on the front by opening up the bolt hole and use the matching discs. Will the Z33 rears bolt to my R34 uprights or will I need an adapter? Picked up a new R33 GT-R 5 speed (only a few $ more than used are going for) and used transfer case finally. Need to decide on a clutch soon. The collecting (hoarding) continues!

@DuncanI was this close to buying an R34 console just to see how close it was lol Yeah I ran out of time yesterday but my goal is to get all the info/part numbers in one place. Hopefully to help the next guy as these cars are about to take off here in the US.

Well there aren't many Stagea in the US and even less people building one so I figured I'd post up my progress. Not sure if you guys do build threads, if not delete this no harm / no foul. As most of you have seen I've been asking a lot of questions as I get parts ready to swap my C34 S1 over to manual. I've read all the threads, searched until my fingers bled and there are still a lot of conflicting answers so I thought I'll document my build with some updated info and part numbers to make life easier for the next person. So far I have acquired for the swap: (NLA = No Longer Available new) R33 GT-R 5 speed R33 GT-S brake pedal assembly (Nissan 46501-70T00 - NLA) , Clutch pedal assembly (Nissan 46540-21U00 - NLA), and Clutch master (Nissan 30610-AA10A) S2 complete manual center console (Nissan 96911-0V800 NLA) S2 Manual ECU (yes I know, but I want a NisTune setup) S1 260RS cluster / S2 260RS cluster ( Both Nissan - NLA / not sure which one I like better) R33 Handbrake w/ cable (Nissan 36010-15U00 - NLA) S2 Handbrake w/ cable (Nissan 36010-17U00 - NLA) Floor mounting bracket for the hand brake lever (Weld in / Nissan 74334-72T00) Shifter adapter sheet metal (Weld in / Nissan 74320-05U00 - NLA) Shifter boot hold down ring (Nissan 74966-35F00) Shifter boot (Nissan 74960-35F00 - NLA / 7496091P00 substitute?) Shifter boot insulator (Nissan 7496705U00 - NLA / 7496791P00 substitute?) Collected Facts: Front and rear driveshafts from the auto will fit the manual Car will drive fine on the Auto ECU RB26/GT-R has different ratio in the diffs so if you're swapping engines install the RB25 sump or get the correct ratio rear diff and the matching CV shafts ATTESSA will work fine (needs TPS signal from ECU only) ABS will work fine ? (still need to conifrm) To be continued....

Got one! Thanks!

@GTSBoy I thought all rb25det had them, sorry I'm running on parts catalog diagrams and google images till the car arrives.

Oh man that was fast! I've been looking for a while.

@GTSBoyis the boost pressure sensor different than the one on the motor now? @RBW49N honestly, I don't want to deal with aftermarket ECUs. The minor wiring changes for the S2/R34GTT ECU I can do without any real effort or cost so it saves me a bunch of money there.

@RBW49N R34 ECU, for trans I have a line on an R33 unit. @GTSBoy thank you, that was the info I was looking for. So if I have a Stagea S2 manual ECU it should be pretty much plug and play?

Sorry if I confused anyone, it was unintentional I have a 12/97' Stagea RS-Four V that is currently auto but I'm collecting the parts to swap it to manual. The spiider controller was a thought just for a bit more control offer the ATTESA but after further reading it maybe over kill for my purposes. I was looking into using as manual Stagea S2 ECU with Nistuned in my car but I'm not sure this is feasible. Thinking it maybe easier to go R34 GTT?

@GTSBoy thank you for the reply I'm looking at GT-R transmissions hence the spiider controller train of thought. I'm new to the Nissan world so I'm assuming it works like Subarus DCCD? It appears that the S2 and ER34 ECU can be Nistuned with the Type 4 board according to thier site?

I think I have searched every thread on here for the answers and diagrams but have not found a solid answer yet. I have a 12/97 S1.5 (non-neo) that I am converting to manual. I would like to use Nistune for tuning purposes but the original non-JECS ecu is not compatible. I have access to a early S2 manual ecu but cannot find a direct comparison of the two pinouts or anyone who has successfully done it. My questions are: Does anyone have both late S1 auto and early S2 manual wiring diagrams? (there are a lot of broken links for them btw) Has anyone attempted this. What issues did you run into? Has anyone used the Spiider attessa controller to get around any of the issues? Thanks in advance!

Well I have 2 of the boot sections now so all I need is the main console with the lid if anyone has just that?

Hello all, I know this is a long shot but if you have one and don't mind shipping it (I'll cover 100%) please let me know. Thanks!