flying fridge

20kgs is the spare tire alone almost lol. So what you think, what weight reduction down from 1720kg is possible without ruining the car?

I know, it‘s a Stagea 260rs…

Yeah it‘s certainly the easier and cheaper way to improve performance. What tires and rims do you use?

See I know that it‘s possible to pull that amount of weight out since a guy already did it. He stripped the whole interior completely and got to 1500kgs but lost all driving comfort since going to the extreme. I don’t want to go that extreme as he did. I wonder if it‘s possible to achive the 1500kgs if putting in some serious cash for carbon/titanium/Aluminium items (doors, bonnet, tailgate, driveshaft, brakes), maybe change the tailgate and rear cargo and rear seat windows to polycarbonate etc etc

The goal would be to land around at 1400-1500kg if that‘s possible, so we’re talking about what I consider a normal weight for a sporty car. I guess that should be possible to achive, don’t need to go crazy like 1200kgs.

It‘s this car, none else. Doesn’t get much better for me. Love the looks of it, it‘s practical, got a huge trunk and is fast. Im not afraid of throwing some serious cash for the purpose of getting it lighter/better.

Yes I’m aware of that, but as a Skyline Wagon it‘s perfect for me, fast and practical together. Will be my car for everything if it got enough comfort for daily use left after the weight reduction, if not I got the option for another cheap car as daily.

Hi there, I’m trying to figure out how go get the weight of the fatboy 260rs down. I would love to buy some lightweight body parts but there is not much that I find, except for a bonnet. Are there front- or rear doors or a Tailgate out of carbon or aluminium? What other options are there beside the obvious „throw out everything“? Did someone swap the glass windows for polycarbonate? Any help is appreciated, thanks guys

Unless PRP will change the internal built of their Rb30 it will be still weaker than the rd28, therefore not interested + it will be like 4-5k minimum, even their refurbished used „prp prepped“ Rb30 is like starting at 2700€ up to 4500€. but we will see 👍

I‘m excited to find out how many legs it will be and when it comes out 👍

PRP did a block comparison few years ago: rd28 weighs about 10kg more than the same sized Rb30, there is more material/reinforcement in the block between the bore and the main caps, the external ribbing is thicker, internally inside the block is ribbing below the bores, deck thickness is almost 13 mm compared to all rb‘s with 7-8mm. And it has oil squirters which Rb30 doesn’t. The 85mm piston has few advantages: -if you stay below the 86,5mm bore you get more wall thickness left obviously compared to any Rb block that you would have to hone to 86,5mm at least. - if you go to say 86,5 or 87mm bore you have more scope to do offset boring and you will end up with better wall thickness overall.

Very interesting, can you attach the link to this here please? He used golf rods??

Still the rd28 is the best option for internal strength even compared to the Rb30 block, that alone is enough for me to take the extra hassle that comes with it

I guess we would be the first guys to drive a rd28 on the street, some guys are driving them for racing but without any water gallery’s but with grout etc. can someone with more experience please explain the different galleries in the Rb Block (left side in the picture) to me? I’m not sure on all of them if they are oil or water galleries.

The big Problem to solve here are the different oil and water channels in the rd28 block to get matched to a rb25/rb26 head, i guess for the other crank related stuff there is a solution. How to get the oil and water channels matched?

- why do you think someone would notice? All rb and rd blocks look very similar. - Rd28 and RB30 both have 50mm rod journal, only difference is the width, rd28 has 25mm and rb30 has 22mm. -> so if you want to use rb30 conrods you cant grind the rd28 crank - what about grinding the rd28 rod journal from the 50mm down to 45mm where you can use Mitsubishi Evo 4g63 150mm rods?

I think about Offset boring the crank Rd28 rod journal diameter from 50mm down to 45mm, from there the Mitsubishi Evo rods are usable with 45mm big ends… how much stability will remain in the crank? -5mm is a lot + rod journal width has to be widened about 1,5mm to fit the evo cranks in, they have quite large rod bearings so therefore the force will have more surface to work on. stroke will be 88mm so that‘s a 3.1ltr then What are your thoughts guys??

Hey i am really interested to have a extensive talk with you about the whole rd28 topic since i try to get it working as well, since here in germany it‘s extremely hard to find a rb30 and i love the technical advantages of the rD28.