GMTGTR

Sorry GTSBoy, I forgot to respond to this. As far as I'm aware, KW doesn't make any coilovers for the R32 GTR right now. They did make some KW Clubsport models which went on Nismo cars and other press cars to my knowledge, but I've never seen them commercially available. Between KW and Ohlins, I might still give the nod to Ohlins. Probably my frontrunner if budget doesn't impact that area due to post-purchase support/turnarounds.

Ok, here's the last portion of the overhaul, the modernization and maintenance section. Not sexy, but probably the most necessary: Brake System Replace Pads: Ordered Project Mu Type PS front and rear Testing RHDJapan service, shipping, and leadtimes Replace Rotors: Project MU SCR Pro fronts and SCR Pure Plus 6 Rebuild Calipers (R32 V-Spec Fronts and R32 GTR Non-Spec V Rears) Inspect brake lines and fittings Bleed brakes and refill with RBF600 (or other recommendation) HICAS system Install SPL HICAS delete Remove as much HICAS parts as possible with engine in Will be following the below post unless there's other recommendationshttps://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453561-a-complete-guide-to-removing-the-r32-hicas-system-inc-looping-hydraulic-lines/ ATTESA system maintenance System works without issues currently, but is it worth it to preemptively replace or keep a spare of common failure components? Torque Split Accumulator (41630-20u00) Transfer Control Actuator (30570-05u0a) ETS Actuator Relay (25224F) ETS Motor Relay (25224FA) ETS Attesa Pro Controller (for g sensor/ecu replacement) Any way to rebuild the Pump? Bleed system Fuel system Aside from the fueling upgrades, mostly just an inspect of rubber condition and fittings. If deteriorating (unlikely), will replace. Inspect fuel tank fittings/lines when replacing fuel pump Cooling Replace radiator/radiator hoses Replace water bypass and heat hoses (or at least what I can access) Inspect and potentially replate or replace heater return pipe (14053-05u15) Coolant flush AAC/IAC System Replace AAC/IAC hoses. Will research for the most convenient way to do this. I have a cold start issue that likely involves this area. https://tfaspeed.com/products/nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-secondary-air-system-aac-iac-hose-kit-under-intake-manifold Clean/rebuild AAC. Damn these things are pricey, will buy a new one if original is toast. Will do more research here. Turbos and related hoses/piping (water/oil): Inspect for leaks Power Steering: Inspect leak in PS system near passenger side. Flush if needed. Transmission: Fluid Flush, maybe rebuild. Replace rear main seal. Engine components: Compression check Replace Spark Plugs Replace Coilpacks Inspect timing components Inspect accessory components Inspect cams/replace valve cover gaskets Rear Diff: Flush fluid. That sums up my hit list. I'll do more research on everything over the next few weeks to consolidate a parts list and action plan. Thanks for the read and any feedback. It'll pretty much be scope management and task building until car is in pieces.

LOL fair enough. I may use the GkTech poly subframe bushings and throw in the spacer at best. I'm definitely well below the use case you're looking for. Man I miss driving my old Z32, but I surely don't miss working on it. All the reports I've seen of the FUCA seem to be lackluster. I may just press new bushings into the current ones or get the Nismos. Not really upgrades in my eyes, but cheap replacements at best. I've heard of the GKTech ones not lasting very long on a few accounts already, but I think they were hard use cars. If I don't get heavy endorsement for another brand, I'll probably be doing with SPL for the other suspension parts except ones they don't make, such as rear lower arms.

Appreciate it GTSBoy. Sounds like the suspension bits might be a mix of a few different brands. I'm trying to keep the subframe, diff, engine, and transmission bushings softer while running spherical/solid on the arms/rods/knuckles if possible. Ideally striking a balance for a street car. Would SydneyKid's explanation of rear subframe adjustments be a simpler solution to the squat adjustment? I'm far some suspension competent, so a lot of his posts have been informative for me.

Very true and completely agree. Based on California, I'll probably lean to stock airbox unless I'm losing a significant amount of spool or top end (very unlikely at these levels). Whoever sells the Prop 65 warning signs is a low-key billionaire.

Onto goal 2, Overhaul entire suspension (maintenance and upgrades): Coilovers: Still TBD, probably between 5 options MCA Comfort 8f/3r (~3200AUD/$2050 with all fees) No stateside support. All warranty must be sent back. Only warranty(3 years) for visual defects Shipping is roughly 390AUD AUS to US. I assume US to AUS is similar. Fortune Auto 500 valved to 8f/6r (~3500AUD/$2250 with all fees) 5 year warranty. Based in US so logistically better. Ohlins DFV valved to 8f/6r (~3500AUD/$2250 with all fees) 2 year warranty. There's several shops within an hour of me that service Ohlins. HKS Hipermax S (~2650AUD/$1700 with all fees) The cheap option. Stop gap if budget gets tight. Easiest part to replace down the road (vs a clutch, injectors/retune, etc.) HKS Hipermax G (~1850AUD/$1200 with all fees) If I really run out of money. Same as option 4, but cheaper. Sway bar/Anti Roll Bar/Stabilizer and End Links: I'll likely replace the Cusco bars since they have very large rears (~30mm) which is overkill for street use. Will probably go with the Whiteline kit. Front and Rear suspension arms/links/etc. (upgrade and refresh): Front Upper Link: Ikeya/SPL/Nismo. I'll do more research on each brand. Ikeya and SPL come up as the better quality that I've seen. Tension Rods: Same as above. Tie Rod Ends: Same Roll Center Adjuster: Same Rear Knuckle Bushings: Same Rear Upper Camber Arm: Same Rear Lower Arm: Same Rear Traction Rods: Same Hicas Delete: Likely SPL Inner Ball Joint: Nissan OEM (40160N) Lower Ball Joint: Nissan OEM (40160P) Engine/Transmission Mounts: Nismo Rear Differential Mounts: Whiteline (or another non-solid bushing variant) Subframe Bushings: Whiteline (or another non-solid bushing variant) I think that covers the suspension components for the most part. There's a lot of overlap between Goal 3 and this.

Ok, here's the breakdown on the transmission/drivetrain plans for supporting my power goals (Goal 1): NOTE: Service of these components will be a different section. This is just for upgrade related scope. Transmission: Stock While I don't need a gearset based on my power and driving needs, the exchange rate for USD to JPY is tempting me to stash a rainy day OS Giken gearset/input shaft/center plate (~$3k USD). Very much a "Nice to Have" Transfer Case: Stock Front Diff: Stock I think a front LSD might be too much for a street/cruiser build. Open to opinions though. While I get clunking at low speed, I'm pretty sure it's only from the rear. Rear Diff: Stock If budget permits, I may look into a 1.5way lsd. "Nice to Have" At low speeds while turning, I get a lot of clunking from the diffs. More clunking than I've had on other factory LSD vehicles (Z32 TT, Evo X). No wheel hop, but its definitely jerky if not smooth on throttle/clutch, so I'll inspect if it's aftermarket. Clutch (push): As mentioned earlier. I don't know the exact clutch in the car. I will wait to remove the transmission before I make a final decision. High likeliness I replace with a Nismo Coppermix Twin, comp spec. Convince me to rebuild the OS Giken if it's STR or GT twin vs option 1. I'm open to it. Driveshafts: Leave stock Axles: Leave stock Like always open to feedback where you see appropriate. Thanks

Thanks, I was planning on writing about the cam/crank trigger kits when I go through the maintenance/upkeep area for timing related servicing. 1050s it is. This isn’t the first time I’ve seen comments like these. I’m pretty sure both are accurate in their own expectations. Because this is an easy swap, maybe I just try both while on the dyno and see how much power/characteristic difference there is. EZPZ

Thanks for the input. I think my above parts list breakdown is extremely close to this. I do have a few questions if you don’t mind: Do I need pods for this lower level? I’ve seen several people running the stock box with aftermarket filters. I do have a set so it’s not problem really, but if it’s preference or extremely minimal impact, I’d rather keep a more factory looking engine due to law enforcement hassles. I think the only things I listed beyond the parts you mentioned are the coil packs and spark plugs. I just figured that these were a small investment/insurance to prevent any dyno day mishaps and the likely age of the components would make these prudent upgrades. Your thoughts? I think my car has hks cams installed. I also assume that it has cam gears if they went though the hassle to install cams. I will visually verify when I start disassembly. For my power level, is there a reason to go for 1300cc injectors or run a higher IDC on 1050s? Thanks

That’s great to hear. Thanks for confirming for me. I forgot to mention the clutch comment. After more research, the full face twin OS Gikens are uncomfortably close to the power levels I may be hitting. So unless someone convinces me otherwise, I’ll probably opt for the Nismo twin, likely competition spec.

Yeah, I was planning on staying a safe margin away from a gearset change (more on the transmission in a later post) and needing a full bottom end rebuild. Maybe on the next phase much further down the road I can shoot for a higher ceiling. As far as use case and driving behavior, the car is just a weekend cruiser/spirited canyon driving. No launches ever, nothing past the top of 3rd gear, and I let the rpms fall before engaging the next gear. I enjoy carrying speed through the corners and rolling on the throttle much more than banging gears, so I figured my transmission and related components should hold up at 350kw levels. Let me know if I’m crazy or bound to kill 3rd gears?

Thanks for the input. I should have been more clear, I was expecting to hit just under 300kw with pump (95ron) and 350kw with e85/flex fuel at similar boost with better timing/cooler temps/etc. The upgrade to the fuel system was two-fold, size up to run E85 with safety margin and to replace old equipment for safety/upkeep since I don’t know how old these components are. As far as the hydroscopic nature of E85, I was planning on using fuel stabilizers if the tank lasts over 6 weeks and fill the balance with standard 95ron. I don’t drive far distances, but a majority of my driving is through urban streets and mountainous areas. I think last time I check, I was averaging 8-10 miles per gallon (3.5-5.5km per liter). So figured the increase rates of e85 will empty quicker. Is there something Skyline specific related to the fuel system that is different from other vehicles? My friends with other platforms(evos, stis, supras, s13s, m2/3s, etc.) don’t seem to have an issue with stabilizers and blending from time to time on non-daily cars. While my mechanic does have the tuning license for the F-Con, it’s quite pointless to use that piggyback with the current standalone offers/support in US. I would like the safeguards that modern standalones provide.

(Shit, I just realized that you have time limits to edit on this forum. My bad. I was trying to placehold posts to break things up and put in order. Oh well.) Ok, so onto the fun part of the project. Goal 1: Building the drivetrain to maximize the (hopefully still installed) HKS GT-SS turbos. While F-Con V Pro tuned, the car felt great. Somewhere in the high 200kw to low 300kw range. I only drove the car once like this and it was over 3 years ago, so that's my best guess. I don't have a true power goal in mind. I'd like to get my car roughly to original level (~300kw/400whp) or higher with E85/flex fuel(~350kw/470whp) if that's reasonable on these turbos. One small side note: The more stock appearance the engine bay is, the better for California. The laws are bullshit, and I'd rather avoid as many hassles as possible. Here's the breakdown of the engine/power related (non-maintenance) plans so far: Engine block: Leave unmodified Engine head: Verify if HKS cams If HKS, try to verify profile and add adjustable cam gears If stock, leave unmodified/maybe adjustable cam gears MAYBE, VCAM Step 1 if budget permits Intercooler: Leave Greddy Front Mount with Piping Intake: Leave stock airbox. Install upgraded air filter. Install AFM delete for MAP sensor/tune If stock airbox limit is reached, reinstall Apex'i Intake Pods Turbo Inlet Pipes: Leave stock if possible Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think these need to be upgraded ever on stock location twins? Blow Off Valves: Leave stock if possible I'm under the impression that the stock BOVs are fine for sub-370kw/500whp goals? Correct me if I'm wrong. Intake Manifold: Leave stock Injectors: ID1050x or ID1300x (suggestions?) I'd like to keep duty cycles below 80% on E85 with ~20-22psi Stock fuel pressure if possible Don't need a bunch of headspace. If I go bigger than GT-SS (much later), it'll be a mid-frame single, so it'll be replaced. Fuel Rail: Stock Fuel Lines: Stock Fuel Pump: FPG In-Tank Surge Tank Kit with 1x Walbro 450 Twin pump setup for futureproofing Overkill for a street car at 500whp/370kw? Coilpacks: R35 Retrofit Spark Plugs: BKR8EIX or BKR7EIX? I'll be running E85 a majority of the time Usually do 1 tank per 6 weeks Adding fuel stabilizers if E85 sits too long ECU: Up to the tuner really. If I had a choice, Haltech. Will install supporting sensors as needed MAP tuning, so AFM Deletes as mentioned above (Intake line 4) Exhaust manifolds: Whatever is on it. Assuming stock Turbos: HKS GT-SS Will visually confirm If stock ceramics, will buy GT2859R-9 Turbo Outlets: If turbos don't need to be changed, leaving whatever is on it. I'm guessing it's HKS Outlets based on previous exhaust mods. If turbos need to be removed, whatever fits a RSR equal length front pipe (70mm x2) best? Suggestions? Front Pipe: Reuse RSR Equal Length Front Pipe, 70mm x2 - 80mm x1 Cat: Berk 3" 240cell count Not flashy, looks oem/basic which is a bonus for me Catback Exhaust: Fujitsubo Legalis R (type Evolution) Pretty quiet and not as flashy as canister mufflers Did I miss anything? Suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks

Gripes about my car (majority of goal 5): I don't have a radio. The center console surround is a cheap fake carbon fiber part. ABS Brake line holder/clips are colored BLUE. I have the slightest passenger dash bubble. Trunk mat is beat up. My Tommy Kaira Shift knob doesn't fit. It's a M10x1.25 (same as my old Evo X), but the threads on the shifter are M10x1.5 (verified). WTF? Lettering on my AC buttons is partially worn off.

Known issues (half of goal 3): Throwout bearing (or possible input shaft bearing) is failing. Clutch still functions normal, with no issues. Noise is consistent in pitch and cadence in neutral, moving, clutch in/out. Have a video I can attach. Going into 4th gear from 3rd quickly will grind slightly. I usually let off in 3rd (street car) and usually let the rpms drop until it slides into 4th without resistance now that I know. Rev matching from 5th into 4th quickly hasn't caused any issues. Doesn't hold idle on cold starts. Long crank, starts up briefly but stumbles and dies immediately. Second start up immediately after will stumble a bit and then increase idle to ~2k and then settle. No issues with warm starts. If I add a slight amount of throttle, I can prevent the first startup stumble/shut off. Suspension is awful. A combination of worn out, over sprung, and too aggressive for non-Japanese roads. I have a very slow drip (1-3 drops per 2 weeks) of steering fluid (red) on the passenger side of the engine bay. Not enough for reservoir level to change in 3 years. Oil collects/weeps, but doesn't drip at the transmission/engine connection. No oil level movement between change intervals (5k KM). Driver side mirror doesn't not fold. Door strikers don't secure doors firm. Slight door noise/rattle HID retrofit has a bad connection between ballast and bulb in passenger side. Intermittently cuts out from vehicle vibration. One section of lighting in the gauge cluster flickers/intermittently off when parking/headlights lights are on. I don't have a radio.