GMTGTR

September 27, 2023

On 9/24/2023 at 11:38 PM, GTSBoy said:

Consider KW also. Top notch Euro suspension with USA presence.

Sorry GTSBoy, I forgot to respond to this. As far as I'm aware, KW doesn't make any coilovers for the R32 GTR right now. They did make some KW Clubsport models which went on Nismo cars and other press cars to my knowledge, but I've never seen them commercially available. Between KW and Ohlins, I might still give the nod to Ohlins. Probably my frontrunner if budget doesn't impact that area due to post-purchase support/turnarounds.

September 27, 2023

Ok, here's the last portion of the overhaul, the modernization and maintenance section. Not sexy, but probably the most necessary:

Brake System
1. Replace Pads: Ordered Project Mu Type PS front and rear
  1. Testing RHDJapan service, shipping, and leadtimes
2. Replace Rotors: Project MU SCR Pro fronts and SCR Pure Plus 6
3. Rebuild Calipers (R32 V-Spec Fronts and R32 GTR Non-Spec V Rears)
4. Inspect brake lines and fittings
  1. Bleed brakes and refill with RBF600 (or other recommendation)
HICAS system
1. Install SPL HICAS delete
2. Remove as much HICAS parts as possible with engine in
3. Will be following the below post unless there's other recommendationshttps://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453561-a-complete-guide-to-removing-the-r32-hicas-system-inc-looping-hydraulic-lines/
ATTESA system maintenance
1. System works without issues currently, but is it worth it to preemptively replace or keep a spare of common failure components?
  1. Torque Split Accumulator (41630-20u00)
  2. Transfer Control Actuator (30570-05u0a)
  3. ETS Actuator Relay (25224F)
  4. ETS Motor Relay (25224FA)
  5. ETS Attesa Pro Controller (for g sensor/ecu replacement)
  6. Any way to rebuild the Pump?
2. Bleed system
Fuel system
1. Aside from the fueling upgrades, mostly just an inspect of rubber condition and fittings. If deteriorating (unlikely), will replace.
2. Inspect fuel tank fittings/lines when replacing fuel pump
Cooling
1. Replace radiator/radiator hoses
2. Replace water bypass and heat hoses (or at least what I can access)
3. Inspect and potentially replate or replace heater return pipe (14053-05u15)
4. Coolant flush
AAC/IAC System
1. Replace AAC/IAC hoses. Will research for the most convenient way to do this. I have a cold start issue that likely involves this area. https://tfaspeed.com/products/nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-secondary-air-system-aac-iac-hose-kit-under-intake-manifold
2. Clean/rebuild AAC. Damn these things are pricey, will buy a new one if original is toast. Will do more research here.
Turbos and related hoses/piping (water/oil): Inspect for leaks
Power Steering: Inspect leak in PS system near passenger side. Flush if needed.
Transmission: Fluid Flush, maybe rebuild. Replace rear main seal.
Engine components:
1. Compression check
2. Replace Spark Plugs
3. Replace Coilpacks
4. Inspect timing components
5. Inspect accessory components
6. Inspect cams/replace valve cover gaskets
Rear Diff: Flush fluid.

That sums up my hit list. I'll do more research on everything over the next few weeks to consolidate a parts list and action plan. Thanks for the read and any feedback. It'll pretty much be scope management and task building until car is in pieces.

September 25, 2023

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

What you can achieve with pineapple rings is about 2/5ths of f**k all. I've had them in in all orientations and couldn't tell much difference.

LOL fair enough. I may use the GkTech poly subframe bushings and throw in the spacer at best. I'm definitely well below the use case you're looking for.

12 minutes ago, lidz said:

Would probably only consider Nismo of those 3 options (& they're just a stock arm with different bushes), SPL don't make FUCA's for the R32/Z32 platform either.
Like GTSBoy I run the GKTech arms too on my Z32 (z32 & r32 suspension is all inter-changeable), would also really recommend the pivoting arms sold by RGS Performance.

All my other suspension arms are SPL, really nice stuff & would definitely recommend them.

Man I miss driving my old Z32, but I surely don't miss working on it.

All the reports I've seen of the FUCA seem to be lackluster. I may just press new bushings into the current ones or get the Nismos. Not really upgrades in my eyes, but cheap replacements at best. I've heard of the GKTech ones not lasting very long on a few accounts already, but I think they were hard use cars.

If I don't get heavy endorsement for another brand, I'll probably be doing with SPL for the other suspension parts except ones they don't make, such as rear lower arms.

September 25, 2023

31 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

My thoughts:

Consider KW also. Top notch Euro suspension with USA presence.

Whiteline for sure. 2 or 3 way adjustable at each end gives you ability to tweak under/oversteer behaviour.

Suspension bits.

FUCAs: None of those are any bloody good. Rigid FUCAS on R32s just suck. I use and recommend the GKTech ones. They.....kindaa require regular rebuilds though. Every couple of years. But that's on my daily doing 10000km/yr. If yours is a weekender, they ill last far longer.

Tension rods. Anything will do, so long as they have spherical joints. I have Tein, just 'coz. But would use anything that's not 3rd shift 6th factory yum-cha manufacture. GKTech do these also.

-

-

There are points to be made about these in the arms points.

I use and recommend Hardrace (which are a decent quality yumcha brand) with harder rubber bushes. If I were happy to use spericals here, I'd use GKTech here too.

I'm thinking that I am going to need to use the GKTechs with sphericals here too, because I want to install GKTech's front lower pickup relocation to reduce Nissan's shitty anti-squat geometry. And....you cannot use that without spherical joints on the lower arm, because it twists the front of the arm down and that's not good for the rear bush.

Same as 6. Do a search on here for the many many words I have already written on getting the adjustment of these right to prevent adding shit tons of bump steer to your car.

Any good delete will do.

cheers

Appreciate it GTSBoy. Sounds like the suspension bits might be a mix of a few different brands. I'm trying to keep the subframe, diff, engine, and transmission bushings softer while running spherical/solid on the arms/rods/knuckles if possible. Ideally striking a balance for a street car.

Would SydneyKid's explanation of rear subframe adjustments be a simpler solution to the squat adjustment? I'm far some suspension competent, so a lot of his posts have been informative for me.

September 25, 2023

45 minutes ago, Duncan said:

To be fair, the answers aren't exactly contradictory, you can make over 300kw with a full standard intake (I do, on the race car at high boost), but it could be causing some restriction. High boost (18psi on N1 turbos, >300kw) needed a swap from factory to 550cc injectors, low boost 250kw I just got there on stock injectors 440cc

In your case, I would keep the factory intake as living in the state of california is known to cause cancer and you probably don't need the attention

Very true and completely agree. Based on California, I'll probably lean to stock airbox unless I'm losing a significant amount of spool or top end (very unlikely at these levels).

Whoever sells the Prop 65 warning signs is a low-key billionaire.

September 25, 2023

Onto goal 2, Overhaul entire suspension (maintenance and upgrades):

Coilovers: Still TBD, probably between 5 options
1. MCA Comfort 8f/3r (~3200AUD/$2050 with all fees)
  1. No stateside support. All warranty must be sent back.
    1. Only warranty(3 years) for visual defects
    2. Shipping is roughly 390AUD AUS to US. I assume US to AUS is similar.
2. Fortune Auto 500 valved to 8f/6r (~3500AUD/$2250 with all fees)
  1. 5 year warranty. Based in US so logistically better.
3. Ohlins DFV valved to 8f/6r (~3500AUD/$2250 with all fees)
  1. 2 year warranty. There's several shops within an hour of me that service Ohlins.
4. HKS Hipermax S (~2650AUD/$1700 with all fees)
  1. The cheap option. Stop gap if budget gets tight.
  2. Easiest part to replace down the road (vs a clutch, injectors/retune, etc.)
5. HKS Hipermax G (~1850AUD/$1200 with all fees)
  1. If I really run out of money.
  2. Same as option 4, but cheaper.
Sway bar/Anti Roll Bar/Stabilizer and End Links: I'll likely replace the Cusco bars since they have very large rears (~30mm) which is overkill for street use. Will probably go with the Whiteline kit.
Front and Rear suspension arms/links/etc. (upgrade and refresh):
1. Front Upper Link: Ikeya/SPL/Nismo. I'll do more research on each brand. Ikeya and SPL come up as the better quality that I've seen.
2. Tension Rods: Same as above.
3. Tie Rod Ends: Same
4. Roll Center Adjuster: Same
5. Rear Knuckle Bushings: Same
6. Rear Upper Camber Arm: Same
7. Rear Lower Arm: Same
8. Rear Traction Rods: Same
9. Hicas Delete: Likely SPL
Inner Ball Joint: Nissan OEM (40160N)
Lower Ball Joint: Nissan OEM (40160P)
Engine/Transmission Mounts: Nismo
Rear Differential Mounts: Whiteline (or another non-solid bushing variant)
Subframe Bushings: Whiteline (or another non-solid bushing variant)

I think that covers the suspension components for the most part. There's a lot of overlap between Goal 3 and this.

September 25, 2023

Ok, here's the breakdown on the transmission/drivetrain plans for supporting my power goals (Goal 1):

NOTE: Service of these components will be a different section. This is just for upgrade related scope.

Transmission: Stock
1. While I don't need a gearset based on my power and driving needs, the exchange rate for USD to JPY is tempting me to stash a rainy day OS Giken gearset/input shaft/center plate (~$3k USD). Very much a "Nice to Have"
Transfer Case: Stock
Front Diff: Stock
1. I think a front LSD might be too much for a street/cruiser build. Open to opinions though.
2. While I get clunking at low speed, I'm pretty sure it's only from the rear.
Rear Diff: Stock
1. If budget permits, I may look into a 1.5way lsd. "Nice to Have"
2. At low speeds while turning, I get a lot of clunking from the diffs. More clunking than I've had on other factory LSD vehicles (Z32 TT, Evo X). No wheel hop, but its definitely jerky if not smooth on throttle/clutch, so I'll inspect if it's aftermarket.
Clutch (push): As mentioned earlier. I don't know the exact clutch in the car. I will wait to remove the transmission before I make a final decision.
1. High likeliness I replace with a Nismo Coppermix Twin, comp spec.
2. Convince me to rebuild the OS Giken if it's STR or GT twin vs option 1. I'm open to it.
Driveshafts: Leave stock
Axles: Leave stock

Like always open to feedback where you see appropriate. Thanks

September 25, 2023

15 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

Coils are a probably going to be needed just due to yours being old and worn out, a trigger kit is always nice insurance as well but not required.

1050s will do the trick

Thanks, I was planning on writing about the cam/crank trigger kits when I go through the maintenance/upkeep area for timing related servicing.

1050s it is.

15 minutes ago, Duncan said:

You can get there with the standard airbox, no problem, and injectors you need 550ish for PULP but larger is fine

10 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

On a 32 I keep seeing standard air boxes become a restriction at much over 300kw, the later ones are great

This isn’t the first time I’ve seen comments like these. I’m pretty sure both are accurate in their own expectations. Because this is an easy swap, maybe I just try both while on the dyno and see how much power/characteristic difference there is. EZPZ

September 25, 2023

23 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

For what your trying to make all you need is exhausts, pods, turbos, injectors, fuel pump, clutch, cam gears and an ecu with a wideband and flex sensor and then bobs your mums brother she’s done. If you want a little more throw some drop in cams into it. Anything else is a waste of money

Thanks for the input. I think my above parts list breakdown is extremely close to this. I do have a few questions if you don’t mind:

Do I need pods for this lower level? I’ve seen several people running the stock box with aftermarket filters. I do have a set so it’s not problem really, but if it’s preference or extremely minimal impact, I’d rather keep a more factory looking engine due to law enforcement hassles.
I think the only things I listed beyond the parts you mentioned are the coil packs and spark plugs. I just figured that these were a small investment/insurance to prevent any dyno day mishaps and the likely age of the components would make these prudent upgrades. Your thoughts?
I think my car has hks cams installed. I also assume that it has cam gears if they went though the hassle to install cams. I will visually verify when I start disassembly.
For my power level, is there a reason to go for 1300cc injectors or run a higher IDC on 1050s?

Thanks

September 25, 2023

15 minutes ago, Duncan said:

You'll be fine with the standard gears at around 350kw, if you are kind to gearboxes. I've been racing on a standard box for years at around that level, including standing starts etc. I've worn a few out (synchros and bearings) but nothing broken

That’s great to hear. Thanks for confirming for me.

I forgot to mention the clutch comment. After more research, the full face twin OS Gikens are uncomfortably close to the power levels I may be hitting. So unless someone convinces me otherwise, I’ll probably opt for the Nismo twin, likely competition spec.

September 25, 2023

2 hours ago, Duncan said:

Sorry, if should add, 300kw is a bit of a sweet spot for these cars in terms of not having to change much. When you get to 350-600 you have to change a heap more, and when you want to go over about 600 the sky is the limit on cost.

Depending on the clutch, you might need to change that to a better single plate if it can't hold the power (you will probably find out, or not, on they dyno)

Yeah, I was planning on staying a safe margin away from a gearset change (more on the transmission in a later post) and needing a full bottom end rebuild. Maybe on the next phase much further down the road I can shoot for a higher ceiling.

As far as use case and driving behavior, the car is just a weekend cruiser/spirited canyon driving. No launches ever, nothing past the top of 3rd gear, and I let the rpms fall before engaging the next gear. I enjoy carrying speed through the corners and rolling on the throttle much more than banging gears, so I figured my transmission and related components should hold up at 350kw levels. Let me know if I’m crazy or bound to kill 3rd gears?

September 25, 2023

2 hours ago, Duncan said:

So, if you have GTSS turbos and a 300kw goal, you really don't need anything except the fuel pump, injectors and tune (and depending on ECU, swapping the AFMs for Z32 or nismo ones). And 3" exhaust from the dumps back.

You should check the rb26 dyno thread for GTSS results because I'm not sure, but I think they will be OK for 300kw at about 20psi, anything over that they will start to choke anyway. You are unlikely to need e85 and preparing for it requires a bit of cost (new fuel lines, e85 pump, e85 injectors), plus it is no good in irregularly driven cars because of how it pulls water into the oil.

Thanks for the input. I should have been more clear, I was expecting to hit just under 300kw with pump (95ron) and 350kw with e85/flex fuel at similar boost with better timing/cooler temps/etc. The upgrade to the fuel system was two-fold, size up to run E85 with safety margin and to replace old equipment for safety/upkeep since I don’t know how old these components are.

As far as the hydroscopic nature of E85, I was planning on using fuel stabilizers if the tank lasts over 6 weeks and fill the balance with standard 95ron. I don’t drive far distances, but a majority of my driving is through urban streets and mountainous areas. I think last time I check, I was averaging 8-10 miles per gallon (3.5-5.5km per liter). So figured the increase rates of e85 will empty quicker.

Is there something Skyline specific related to the fuel system that is different from other vehicles? My friends with other platforms(evos, stis, supras, s13s, m2/3s, etc.) don’t seem to have an issue with stabilizers and blending from time to time on non-daily cars.

While my mechanic does have the tuning license for the F-Con, it’s quite pointless to use that piggyback with the current standalone offers/support in US. I would like the safeguards that modern standalones provide.

September 24, 2023

(Shit, I just realized that you have time limits to edit on this forum. My bad. I was trying to placehold posts to break things up and put in order. Oh well.)

Ok, so onto the fun part of the project. Goal 1: Building the drivetrain to maximize the (hopefully still installed) HKS GT-SS turbos.

While F-Con V Pro tuned, the car felt great. Somewhere in the high 200kw to low 300kw range. I only drove the car once like this and it was over 3 years ago, so that's my best guess.

I don't have a true power goal in mind. I'd like to get my car roughly to original level (~300kw/400whp) or higher with E85/flex fuel(~350kw/470whp) if that's reasonable on these turbos.

One small side note: The more stock appearance the engine bay is, the better for California. The laws are bullshit, and I'd rather avoid as many hassles as possible.

Here's the breakdown of the engine/power related (non-maintenance) plans so far:

Engine block: Leave unmodified
Engine head: Verify if HKS cams
1. If HKS, try to verify profile and add adjustable cam gears
2. If stock, leave unmodified/maybe adjustable cam gears
3. MAYBE, VCAM Step 1 if budget permits
Intercooler: Leave Greddy Front Mount with Piping
Intake: Leave stock airbox. Install upgraded air filter.
1. Install AFM delete for MAP sensor/tune
2. If stock airbox limit is reached, reinstall Apex'i Intake Pods
Turbo Inlet Pipes: Leave stock if possible
1. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think these need to be upgraded ever on stock location twins?
Blow Off Valves: Leave stock if possible
1. I'm under the impression that the stock BOVs are fine for sub-370kw/500whp goals? Correct me if I'm wrong.
Intake Manifold: Leave stock
Injectors: ID1050x or ID1300x (suggestions?)
1. I'd like to keep duty cycles below 80% on E85 with ~20-22psi
2. Stock fuel pressure if possible
3. Don't need a bunch of headspace. If I go bigger than GT-SS (much later), it'll be a mid-frame single, so it'll be replaced.
Fuel Rail: Stock
Fuel Lines: Stock
Fuel Pump: FPG In-Tank Surge Tank Kit with 1x Walbro 450
1. Twin pump setup for futureproofing
2. Overkill for a street car at 500whp/370kw?
Coilpacks: R35 Retrofit
Spark Plugs: BKR8EIX or BKR7EIX?
1. I'll be running E85 a majority of the time
2. Usually do 1 tank per 6 weeks
3. Adding fuel stabilizers if E85 sits too long
ECU: Up to the tuner really. If I had a choice, Haltech.
1. Will install supporting sensors as needed
2. MAP tuning, so AFM Deletes as mentioned above (Intake line 4)
Exhaust manifolds: Whatever is on it. Assuming stock
Turbos: HKS GT-SS
1. Will visually confirm
2. If stock ceramics, will buy GT2859R-9
Turbo Outlets: If turbos don't need to be changed, leaving whatever is on it. I'm guessing it's HKS Outlets based on previous exhaust mods.
1. If turbos need to be removed, whatever fits a RSR equal length front pipe (70mm x2) best? Suggestions?
Front Pipe: Reuse RSR Equal Length Front Pipe, 70mm x2 - 80mm x1
Cat: Berk 3" 240cell count
1. Not flashy, looks oem/basic which is a bonus for me
Catback Exhaust: Fujitsubo Legalis R (type Evolution)
1. Pretty quiet and not as flashy as canister mufflers
Did I miss anything? Suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks

September 24, 2023

Gripes about my car (majority of goal 5):

I don't have a radio.
The center console surround is a cheap fake carbon fiber part.
ABS Brake line holder/clips are colored BLUE.
I have the slightest passenger dash bubble.
Trunk mat is beat up.
My Tommy Kaira Shift knob doesn't fit. It's a M10x1.25 (same as my old Evo X), but the threads on the shifter are M10x1.5 (verified). WTF?
Lettering on my AC buttons is partially worn off.

September 24, 2023

Known issues (half of goal 3):

Throwout bearing (or possible input shaft bearing) is failing. Clutch still functions normal, with no issues. Noise is consistent in pitch and cadence in neutral, moving, clutch in/out. Have a video I can attach.
Going into 4th gear from 3rd quickly will grind slightly. I usually let off in 3rd (street car) and usually let the rpms drop until it slides into 4th without resistance now that I know. Rev matching from 5th into 4th quickly hasn't caused any issues.
Doesn't hold idle on cold starts. Long crank, starts up briefly but stumbles and dies immediately. Second start up immediately after will stumble a bit and then increase idle to ~2k and then settle. No issues with warm starts. If I add a slight amount of throttle, I can prevent the first startup stumble/shut off.
Suspension is awful. A combination of worn out, over sprung, and too aggressive for non-Japanese roads.
I have a very slow drip (1-3 drops per 2 weeks) of steering fluid (red) on the passenger side of the engine bay. Not enough for reservoir level to change in 3 years.
Oil collects/weeps, but doesn't drip at the transmission/engine connection. No oil level movement between change intervals (5k KM).
Driver side mirror doesn't not fold.
Door strikers don't secure doors firm. Slight door noise/rattle
HID retrofit has a bad connection between ballast and bulb in passenger side. Intermittently cuts out from vehicle vibration.
One section of lighting in the gauge cluster flickers/intermittently off when parking/headlights lights are on.
I don't have a radio.

September 24, 2023

Here's some background on my car:

Two previous owners in Japan (92-16, 16-19), I'm the first owner since it was imported in 2020
Have maintenance documents from 1995 to 2018 (Heisei 7-30)
Mileage is at 84k KMs with verified odometer checks and maintenance to validate
It came from a contaminated region (Ibaraki Prefecture). Supposedly they test at the ports. I don't care; I'll be buried in this car.
Auction rated at a 4/B in 2016 and 2019

My car was imported to the US in early 2020. I bought it in Feb 2020, but I had to wait 8 months for the car to be brought to California compliance (CARB certification).

Parts removed for California legalization process:

HKS F-Con V Pro
HKS EVC 6
HKS SQV4
Sard 800cc Injectors
RSR Equal Length Front Pipe (will reinstall)
Sard High Flow Cat
HKS Hi Power Catback Exhaust
Apex'i Intake Pods

Parts currently installed (or claimed) on the car:

Greddy Front Mount Intercooler with Piping (confirmed)
HKS GT-SS Turbos (claimed, will verify)
HKS Actuators (confirmed)
HKS Oil Cooler with Filter Relocation kit (confirmed)
HKS Fuel Pump, 280l/h (claimed, will verify/likely remove)
OS Giken Clutch, unknown model(claimed, may rebuild depending on model)
Apex N1 Coilovers (confirmed, will replace)
Cusco front and rear anti-roll bars (will verify)
Cusco front and rear strut bars (confirmed)
R32 Vspec or R33 Front Brembo Calipers (confirmed)
Nismo Braided Brake lines (confirmed)
Volk RE30s (18x9.5+22) with ContiSportContact 3 (265/35/18)
HID conversion in stock projector housing

Car passed CA smog in September 2022 without any changes from above.

September 24, 2023

Grab a coffee, because this might take a while. Thanks for reading.

My transmission/clutch is starting to act up, so it seems like a good time to dig into the drivetrain to address much needed (and wanted) upkeep and upgrades "since I'm in there". I'll be doing a lot of planning to manage the overall scope, requirements, and goals of the project before I start disassembling anything. Anything I can verify ("known knowns") or proactively plan for ("known unknowns") before I disassemble will be budgeted as contingency to avoid delays or overspending. I am (was?) a project manager by trade. So why not project manage the shit out of this?

The car will be left on a battery maintainer and not driven at this time. I plan to start disassembly around January of 2024. I'd love to be completed by June of 2024, but quality of execution is my main focus. I will be doing all the labor with a friend who owned and has extensive knowledge (some dated) on skylines from working as a mechanic/track support at HKS USA and MotoRex (confirmed shit show lol).

There's five main goals (scope) for this overhaul:

Maximize the current setup on the car (HKS GT-SS) with a proper standalone
Overhaul entire suspension
Perform general maintenance/inspections on entire running gear
Modernize where prudent (R35 coils)
Modernize where convenient (a radio? lol)

I'll do my best to index future posts to make it easier to follow progress on different aspects with reference to project goals. Not sure how much I will document with pictures or video, I'll see how the first steps go before I commit. Aside from the financial abuse I'm about to take and the hiatus of driving my skyline, I'm looking forward to this. Looking forward to any tips or advice along the way. Thanks SAU

September 24, 2023

On 9/20/2023 at 2:34 PM, hattori hanzo said:

I would skip the HKS fuel pump and go for an integrated system of pump, lines and injectors to switch over to E85

https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/collections/nissan-skyline-r32gt-r/products/fpg-new-nissan-skyline-r32-gt-r-bnr32-in-tank-surge-tank-kit-track-edition-te-fits-c34-stagea-v3-fpg-085

or aftermarket industries do great affordable products with the hardwork done

Wow, didn't think I would need something that extensive for my power level, but looks really nice. I wouldn't mind a setup that I could grow into if I go down the path in the future. I think at this point I should start a build thread to gather all my thoughts in one spot for feedback.

September 20, 2023

6 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

It was not tuned properly, the turbos also blew up. So he just has some possibly rebuildable cores basically. For some reason there was RTV on the compressor housing instead of the correct OEM gasket. Details like that are the reason why I told him he needed to tear down the whole engine and do a nut and bolt rebuild the right way. He never showed me the center section gaskets but anyone willing to cut corners like that probably also put RTV on those gaskets or just used RTV which is probably why his turbos blew up to begin with followed by his bottom-end.

I recommend no matter what the provenance of a car to always be skeptical and when you do have a chance verify things were done the right way. Someone willing to cut corners almost never stops at the small things.

Wow, damn. If I saw clues like RTV in places it shouldn't be, on top of disclaimed turbos, that's definitely the prudent approach. There's a good chance that even if my engine comp/leakdown is clean, I'll probably still borescope the cylinders to see how it looks in there. No leaks in my garage and dipstick reads perfect between 5k KM oil changes. With how expensive everything on these platforms has become, why not add a bit of insurance when possible.

September 20, 2023

10 hours ago, hattori hanzo said:

may as well rip the band aid off and order a 3.2l stoker and 6870 with a holinger

Car looks neats, good luck with it!

LOL one financial death at a time. Thanks, I appreciate it.

I actually just paid for a carvx report and found out more about the hidden parts installed on the car. Probably should have done this earlier.

1. HKS GT-SS turbos (same as Garrett -9s): I'll visually verify, but very happy about this.

2. HKS cams: Doesn't say profile, I'll open up the covers to verify what I can

3. HKS fuel pump (280L): Will I max this out with E85 on GT-SS/-9s? I've seen mixed on this through other threads.

4. OS Giken clutch: I can't read the model; the writing is messy after "OS Clutch". I might hold off on the Nismo twin if the OS Giken is a twin and current model for rebuilding. I found the clutch very easy to drive in traffic and on hills.

September 20, 2023

On 9/18/2023 at 2:58 PM, GTSBoy said:

I wouldn't worry about that. There would have to be clever suspension shops in the US that could disassemble and service the dampers (with internal parts from MCA if required) if required. But I would put money on the concept of you not needing any such service. Even assuming a generous 10000km/yr mileage, you wouldn't wear them out before the heat death of the universe (read that as petrol costs going to $10/litre).

I got a response back from MCA. Between the international warranty policies, shipping costs and import duties, it washes the exchange rate advantage of my Freedom/Reserve Currency compared to US company pricing. If they need to be sent back for any reason, I would be uncomfortably close to my preferred choice (such as MCS 1WNR ~$6k AUD). You serious about floating me some money if things go sideways🤣?

We do have countless boutique suspension shops for service on pretty much every premier brand which is great. Several being less than an hour from me. It's not a 100% no for MCA just yet, but I'll be inquiring with several other companies before making a decision. I may take a 2 phase approach to coilovers and buy a "holdover" set ($2.5k AUD) so I can allocate/reserve more funds toward other harder to replace items (turbos, bushings/mounts, etc.). I also wouldn't mind a cheap second set so I don't have downtime when rebuilding the primary set.

3 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

The center section somewhere should have a part number/tag if it's a Garrett/OEM turbo, the compressor housing is another common spot for turbo specs if it's aftermarket. If you look carefully you should be able to spot it without any disassembly. Easy way to tell whether your stock turbos have had steel turbines installed is look at the exhaust turbine retaining nut. A ceramic turbine will have many sides/splines, aftermarket is usually a standard hex or something similar. I just helped a guy identify his turbos after he blew his motor. Seller claimed it was "Garrett GT2860RS" which should've been a red flag considering those are not direct fit for RB26s. Pulled off the engine it was clear it was R33 ceramics with a metal turbine rebuild kit.

Thanks for the heads up. I have read about the exhaust turbine retaining nut identification before, so I figured since I'll be way down there for the transmission drop, it'll be a 5 minute borescope colonoscopy. If that proves inconclusive, I'll definitely look at the compressor side. I'll be honest, while I'd love if the car magically has a set of garrett -7 or -9 on it, I'll be plenty happy with any non-ceramic set.

That sucks about the seller pulling a fast one. Assuming it was tuned properly, the power delivery would have been a red flag, no? At least he can sell them to someone who needs a stop-gap for ceramics and he can recoup some cost towards his desired upgrade.

September 18, 2023

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Just contact MCA. Paying in proper dollars should reduce the pain.

I'm not terribly worried about the buying from them, but I was more concerned about post-purchase aspects like servicing and support without sending them back to Australia. Their dealer page doesn't have any North America listings. I was planning on working with a shock builder to assemble/valve to my use case, but I'll send them an email to see if they have servicing partners in the States.

September 18, 2023

4 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Welcome to SAU, it looks pretty tidy!

Thanks. It's not quite nice enough for a museum and not quite rough enough for a lawn ornament. She may get comfortable on jack stands for a while though. lol

September 18, 2023

Hi all,

I've been reading up on your forums for a while now and figured it's time to make an account. Pretty awesome there's decades worth of (English) consolidated information on the R chassis, simplifying the ownership for newer American owners. I've had my R32 GT-R for about 3 years/7k KM now, and it's currently California emissions complaint(PITA). It's pretty much my weekend therapy cruiser.

Before the car was reverted to a CA legalized state, there was several aftermarket parts removed but, quite frankly, unknown parts may still be on the car. Before I bought the car, I was able to drive it once in it's modified/tuned state. Based off the powerband (~4.5k RPM peak boost), installed F-Con/EVC/HKS actuators/Sard 800cc Injectors, and spiked factory boost gauge, I think the turbos may be aftermarket. Butt dyno felt like 375-400whp. More on that later. Here's the configuration when I bought it: https://www.importavehicle.com/vehicles/363/1992-nissan

So, the true joy of Skyline ownership is beginning with some gearbox noise independent of RPM. I'm assuming throw out/thrust bearing over input shaft since it's a relatively consistent cadence and noise level. Either way, the box is coming out and I'm going to the drawing boards for a minor refresh project since "I'm already in there". I'm 99% going with a Nismo Twin non-competition model. There's a small chance I have a twin disk in it right now based on the floating disk chatter, quite forgiving engagement though.

Aside from addressing the clutch/gearbox, I'll be inspecting or considering upgrades for the following areas:

1. Inspect turbos while front pipe/transmission removed. Hoping a quick inspection of the exhaust wheels show they aren't ceramic, or I'll look for serials/codes.

2. Reinstall turbo back system. Already have the original RSR equal length (2x70mm to 80mm I think) the car came with. Will be buying a high flow cat (76mm) and likely a Fujitsubo exhaust (76mm). Not only do we have emissions issues here, we also have sound ordinances in some cities. I prefer a quiet-ish exhaust and not going for big power, so all good.

3. Replace coilovers. They ride like crap because of age and spring rates. A lot of the recommended brands you guys use aren't available here, like MCA, so I'll probably open a new thread to get some guidance.

4. Upgrade/refresh suspension components/bushings.

5. Basic engine health check. Compression, leakdown, leaks (if any), belts/hoses, etc.

6. Fluid flush, brakes, other misc. services.

6. Reinstall or buy injectors/buy new ecu and get tuned. No true power goals, just want it safe and flex fuel wouldn't hurt (it's $3.19/gallon for E85 vs $6/gallon for 91oct/95ron).

I have my work cut out for me. It'll be a lot of parts gathering and planning before I start working on it. Look forward to researching for my upcoming project.

Thanks for reading

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