EndZee

Yeah I checked with multimeter and i1=e1… i4= blank, i5= e4, i6=e5, i7=e6. Nothing has been changed in ECU. It’s full oem. I did get conversion to Ngk vw/Audi coil packs. Guy made harness for me but cables was so similar in length so I could miss match something. So I’m asking if I should connect e1 to be 1 coil … e6 to coil nr 6. Just to don’t fck it up

Hello, im asking about this guy - coil igniter on rb25det series 1 r33 s1 engine. I need to know if pins on coil side indicate coils itself from 1-6 or it’s firing order so pin nr1 goes to 1st fired spark plug:(1pin-1firing spark, 2pin-5order firing spark, 3-3, 4-6, 5-2, 6-4…) photo: https://files.fm/f/k9pdug38uq

But if I smoke test 5th cylinder it’s all ok, no leaks when I try with 2nd it’s leaking exhaust and intake, it doesn’t come from oil dip stick. so maybe when car was running poorly, rich or sth. Spark plugs were black and covered in charcoal or sth lookalike. could potential contamination make valves not seal properly? is there also a possibility that rb’s don’t have equal performing cooling passages meaning back of the engine will be hotter than front. Can this cause improper wear if engine was running under load for short time? Or carbon build up could just burnt from 4-6 and is still on 1-3? I out of my head like really. Timing is as manual crank-exhaust 47, exhaust-intake 38 at this point I thinking about give it a try and make another 500-1000km and check if anything change, if not I will most likely disassemble engine head /or whole engine and send it back to rebuild. It’s killing me

I can also smell fuel in oil if that helps.

Hello, after engine rebuild(new cylinder liners and piston rings, arp headstuds, metal cometic tripple layer gasket, all new main/rod bearings) and roughly 100km made I did measure compression and it’s (1-6) - 80, 60, 90, 120, 110, 135. It’s rb25det series 1 - hydraulic lifters. Measured on cold engine. Didn’t check on hot due to overall car problems such as broken 3rd gear, idle issues, misfire etc. I did smoke test only on 2nd and 5th cylinder bcs soldering iron used with this method broke itself. So after setting cams to side - side 90 left/right angle I can see smoke coming off from intake manifold and turbo exhaust flange. 5th didn’t notice any smoke. Shop did head, valve etc job but I assemble it by myself. So I thinking about lifters. I don’t remember if they were soft or not it was long time ago. In my opinion I didn’t bleed them and they can be opened more than they should be. Can it be more likely possible? Or timing can be off by 1 teeth and can cause such weird compression? But if timing would be out wouldn’t it be like such big difference across all cylinders? Please help I’m so sad it happened.

Thank you. Can you please check where should I add hose in intake pipes? From recirc valve back to intake? I upload photos on imgur. In front of turbo inlet, after maf/ right after turbo outlet / or it doesn’t matter? https://imgur.com/a/wC4y8ro

Coilpacks Ngk vag with modified igniter. It was running this way before engine blow

Hey man how was it? So you just insert another wire to pin where this cable goes and connect it to battery? Is it red colour?

After I unplug maf car dies, won’t start. Same with iacv valve - two connectors mounted behind manifold

https://imgur.com/a/wC4y8ro

here’s link to photos bcs can’t add it here blue spots - I can install recirc valve hose there and in general everything air intake related so you can spot of anything wrong here

Sorry for late answer but here’s my spec: Series 1 1994 r33 gts25t AT converted to MT using r32 rb20det gearbox. Custom self made clutch pedal os giken twin plate clutch two pins connected to let engine start speedsensor from AT connected to wire harness but didn’t fit to gearbox So it’s somewhere inside in the car so I can add km to tachometer after I measure distance with gps. Don’t want to pay 150€ for sensor if I probably will change gearbox with adapter to bmw one. Car barely runs and winter is coming so no point right now engine after rebuild Stock automatic ecu and at tachometer Aftermarket oil cooler with separate sensor so oem oil pressure is unplugged koyo 53mil radiator Mods which may cause the issue: 600x300x76 front mount intercooler Cone air filter blitz Removed recirculating valve Slighty bigger maxspeedingrods turbo adjustable manual boost controller (didn’t set it but last time I checked on aftermarket gauge it was 0.4bar, asaik oem is different unit 7(unit) don’t want to rev it too high bcs it made max 70km after rebuild Fuel pressure regulator set to idk 30-32psi at iddle dw300 fuel pump stock injectors check valve right in front of fuel rail i thinking sth wrong with afr it getting too much fuel and too less air or it needs that recirc valve? on warm engine it took 5-10 seconds to start it. After I put way bigger battery, battery terminals and new ecu coolant temp sensor problem is gone my old turbo spill 150ml oil into intake so cleaned it. I checked for error codes and it given me 55 - all good. I bought consult so will plug in soon to check if it give me better feedback. Also I will install oem recirc valve tomorrow. Small hose going to manifold but where should go 30mm pipe from this valve? I’m front of turbo inlet, after maf/ right after turbo outlet / or it doesn’t matter? actaully can install it in these two spots (blue circles)

Broooo have exact same issue. Did you solved it? Please answer

So I’m looking for rb20det sensor or rb25de. Is this possible that ka24de/sr20 also could work? How much teeth is for small box sensor? 21? Does diameter size vary between these gearboxes? https://youtu.be/VPhkpdEH7Lg?si=uGF2tLuAM6Mb5LF2

Thank you very much for answer! 🙏 One more question. My car is sitting waiting for turbo to be repaired. Is speed sensor somehow related to mileage? Will it add or count mileage without speed sensor plugged in?

Hello, is that speed sensor? Why doesn’t it have any cables/2pin but steel cable/rope? Photos of sensor R33 gtst auto I swapped it on manual with rp71c#2 gearbox prob rb20det r32. if I can’t connect current sensor is there any chance that ca/sr speed sensor or rb25automatic sensor will work plug n play?