Dose Pipe Sutututu

Will chatter and knock on u turns, however if it's too aggressive you can alter the engagement and also add friction modifiers too. A bit of a compromise, but if you want fast lap times, and being able to put power down then you need a proper diff.

Nismo GT Pro 1.5way LSD

Feel free to ignore, but I personally would go smaller if your motor will be sat high in the RPM all the time. I was running a N1 pump, with Spool billet gears on my RB25 NEO and it would fill the cam covers, spit out into the catch can and also drain the 6.5Ln ASR baffled sump around high G corners at the track. Killed my motor after 2x track days.

Another option that tends to work, is to use a 300ZX N/A manual speed sensor with the RB25DET gearbox. Direct fitment (sensor wise) and just snip off the connectors and fit up a Deutsche connector for that added sex spec feel. Not 100% accurate but you're about 5 to 10% slowest than the actual speed. I suppose to you mix/match wheels to game the circumference to get the desired reading.

Club 400kW+ in no time

I don't know why so many shops still use those horrid CNG injectors. It has been proven time and time again, they simply cause more problems then solve. I suggest you give your old man a Samsonas 😂

GT3582 vs GTX3582 Gen 1 and 2 would be very different in response, considering they flow much more air. A GT3582R is rated to about 600hp, a GTX3582R Gen 1 to about 750hp and Gen 2 at 850hp. I know the numbers Garrett advertise are a bit over the top, but you get the general theme. A GTX3071 Gen 2 would hypothetically flow as much as a GT3582 to put things into perspective.

97% of car owners don't tune their own cars, so they wouldn't need to purchase the cable nor would they need to purchase the software. Their preferred tuning shop would have the required cable and software. The shop license has no limits to the amount of Nistune it can tune.

Depending on your car, you probably don't need to swap anything. I was running a R34 motor and CAS with R33 wiring. Made things a bit more confusing lol. If you've ordered the right kit off NZ Wiring it will be pinned correctly to suit the R34 loom. All you need to do is setup the triggering, arming table, then lock your timing, adjust +/- the TDC offset till it is 100% synced. Then rip skids.

@Tobz sorry about the delay, laptop was flat lol Trigger Arming Voltages Below Trigger Settings, Note the offset is a bit cooked, but it works and even Geoff from NZ Wiring said what I did was ok

When you've binned your car and one wheel/hub is completely seized but you want to try drive it back to the pits.

Since you're that far already, why not pop in new valve springs, valve stem seals & cams with higher lift/bit more duration. And..... might as well put in a Samsonas.

Depends on which cam is selected. + I definitely can say my 2 way KAAZ looks like this (actual photo of my diff) and my mate's 1.5 way looks like the below (not his photo)

Turns out Haltech Support was a bit confused and told me to supply +12V to the reluctor and feed it back to the trigger input. Geoff from NZ Wiring actually was right from the start. You don't use the +12v at all, as the reluctor itself generates a voltage. So all you need to do is use the Trigger PIN & Sensor GND. Both Home signal & +12V are not connected/used. The arming voltage table given to you by Geoff at NZ Wiring "should" be able to get the car started, however I found that increasing the values a bit reduced the trigger count errors. I'll get a screenshot of it soon

Time attack/track work I would personally go with a 1/1.5 way only. I have a 2 way KAAZ LSD and I can say that driving my friend's car with a 1.5 way around a technical track, it's actually faster than mine with a 2 way.