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Found 1,160 results

  1. Hello everyone! i know I’m new to the site but I need some help. I dropped my differential to get to the atessa and found the leak at the wiring of the pressure sensor/switch. does Anyone know if this is a sensor or a switch? If a sensor, has anyone tried switch it with an oil pressure sensor or anything that might work as a replacement? i can’t find a replacement and looking at nissans parts catalog and countless researching I don’t think you can buy it separately. I also had no luck on researching suitable replacements.
  2. Alrighty guys, So i've had a number of skylines over the last 5 years, since getting my first one in 2014. A number of R33 drift cars, a R32 drift car in japan @ ebisu circuit (for sale atm if anyone is keen :D), my original green 32 which I've built up over the last 5 years to a 500hp rb25 neo street weapon (this is also for sale...) With the rising prices of GTR's these last few years..I thought I would never be able to afford a proper GTR without selling everything I own haha. I recently came across someone with a bare non rolling R32 GTR shell which luckily had not been posted for sale online. Luckily over the years, I have amassed quite a number of GTR body parts. The plan is to pretty well fully rebuild the car with as much new items as possible (while not going crazy over the top). This will take me a long time, but I hope to keep these page updated (unlike my first build post haha).
  3. Hi guys, I'm trying to find an engine for my R32 skyline gtst I'm after a stock(ish) RB20det silvertop for around $1000.
  4. Hey everyone. Thought I'd be a member as I found myself browsing this site for guidance most of the time. I drove my first car for nearly 10 years; Acura RSX (or Honda Integra to the non-US members). After these cars became legal in 2014 for the US, I devoted myself to save money. Three years later, I found a great deal that was within my budget and bought my first skyline in March 2018. Not bad for my second car ever right? Don't worry, I'm not driving it daily because soon after I sold the RSX, I picked up a third car for cheap to drive every day instead. My Skyline is a 1990 GTST Type-M. I bought the car with the exterior's paint in rough condition, but since my ownership, I did my best to restore it. Maybe I'll make a build thread some other time. Here are some photos from the day I first purchased it to how it currently looks.
  5. Hi up for sale Is my set of 4x 18x9.5+12 (5x114.3) Nismo LMGT4s Gt500 edition. Gloss black with no gutter rash - perfect condition. One wheel was buckled at a track day but is repairable. Selling as I no longer have my GTR and they have been sitting boxed in the garage. located in Sydney, 0404097043 PRICE $2,300 ONO
  6. Does anyone know of a place that sells good quality r32 moulded carpet? after it in black also
  7. Hey all, Due to some recent upgrades and to sell a couple of unused items, I have the following gear for sale. All items are in working order (except where noted) and were removed from a 1990 R32 GT-R making just over 300KW. But....in some cases they are 28ish years old so "caveat emptor". Please consider this if you are interested. Collection in Melbourne. GT-R Stuff 1. R32 GT-R OEM Intercooler Price: $180.00 Reason for sale: upgraded to a new Plazmaman cooler 2. SOLD Apexi Power FC (no hand controller) Price: $200.00 Reason for sale: replaced with Nistuned OEM ECU 3. R32 GT-R Twin Turbo Pipe Price: $45.00 Reason for sale: replaced with a wrinkle black painted pipe 4. SOLD R32 GT-R OEM Coilpack, igniter etc. Price: $50.00 Reason for sale: upgraded to Alpha Omega Racing ACDelco Coil setup 5. R32 GT-R Gearbox - SUIT A REBUILD Price: $270.00 Reason for sale: replaced with a brand new R33 S3 gearbag Note 1: I don't have any pictures of this as it is in storage. Note 2: Early model push type box Note 3: I believe that the gearset is OK but synchros are knackered Note 4: It was very difficult to engage 1st gear but the clutch was also on death's door Note 5: Did I mention that it it needs a rebuild? Note 6: Comes with free oil 6. SOLD 6 x RC Racing Injectors Price: $25.00 Reason for sale: replaced with new injectors to support E85 Note 1: I don't believe these are very good so "caveat emptor" as per above. Note 2: I think they are 850cc Other stuff 7. 2 x Philips Xenon D1S X-tremeVision gen2 (BNIB) Price: $225.00 Reason for sale: I was going to use these in another car but went a different route. They are brand new and have not been removed from packaging. I think that I paid about $350.00 for these. 8. SOLD Pioneer TSWX305B Bass Reflex Subwoofer (BNIB) Price: $45.00 Reason for sale: TBH, I don't know why I bought this. Possibly drunk. It would never have fit in anything that I owned at the time. Stock pic below I am open to reasonable offers and will ship via E-Go. If anything is way over priced, then please don't sledge like you are David Warner (when he was allowed on the pitch); just let me know or - if you are interested - send me a link to a realistic price. There is also a bag with some additional screws / bolts / etc. so if something appears to be missing, let me know. Cheers Rob
  8. Can anyone tell me if the badges on my front fender are original to my car. It a R32 gts skyline 1993
  9. R32 (maybe R33/34?) boot/trunk lid lock remove and rekey Thought I would do a quick write up on how to remove the lock assy from the trunk/boot lid and re-key/re-code it to work with your existing door locks and ignition assy. I used the help of a video from YouTube for the actual re-key part, it made everything very simple. Tools required: Socket wrench and 10mm socket 10mm box end wrench Needle nose pliers Set of precision/jewelers screwdrivers This video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FX2AH9-isPA *Optional* Small dainty fingers you got from your mom's side, not manly sausage fingers like dad First step, get your boot/trunk lid, and flip her over, nice and gentle.:nervous: You should see two 10mm bolts holding on the catch or latch assy (not sure what to label it). Remove those bolts and pull off the assy. I will say, looking back, this "might" not have to be removed, but it made it easier for me to see behind there for the actual lock assy. Next, you'll want to locate the flat piece of metal holding the lock assy on. It has enough of a catch on it for you to get your finger on and pull whichever direction to get it off the lock assy. As far as I can tell, this is what helps hold the assy onto the lid. So make sure you don't lose it and/or bend/break it. You should now be able to push the lock assy out the lid. Now, move over to your work area so you can begin disassembly. From here on out, I pretty much followed the video's instructions, pausing it each step. Of course it's a different vehicle, but they work the same way and have similar parts. Make sure to take your time and DO NOT lose any of those springs! Pay attention to the direction things were before you remove them. I would even go as far as taking pictures on your cell phone before doing a step, that way you have a reference to go back to in case you get stuck. The precision screw driver is a must, made it so easy to get parts off and pry little tabs up. *NOTE* how the black metal cover appears to be angled, make sure it goes back the same direction* Here I just stuck the screwdriver in between the spring and twisted. Here I paid attention to which tumblers went down and which stayed up. That kind of helped in figuring out which to move around, since they all should go down when the key is stuck in. Just pry em' out! Turn over (maybe give a lil love tap, gently). Be careful! Of course i kept them segregated, I just made one side top and one side bottom in my head and kept them that way and in order from closest to where the key goes in to the end, just in case. Switch them around, til you get the key to go in and all the tumblers go down. Sorry, no pic of that, but should self explainitory on that one. Basically switch back and forth between these two steps: until they all go down and you can rotate the assy with the key inserted. IF you get them all moved around and one or two won't quite go down enough to be able to roate it, then you might have to file down a tumbler, til it works. I had no issues, matter of fact, had one and a spring left over, haha. :nervous: Re-assy is just reverse of steps. Hope this was helpful to someone. Please feel free to make any corrections or give any tips.
  10. Hi Guys, Doing a bit of a garage clean out and have a few things for sale. Will probably add stuff as i go along and find more, but here is what i have at the moment: Bosch Motorsport top feed 1000cc injectors. Used only for 5000kms with 98 $500 R32 GTR OEM BOV return pipe (used) $150 R32 GTR OEM front sway bar (used) $100 R32 GTR OEM aircon ducting (used). Every bit of plastic ducting from under the carpet and dash, except the one that goes to the drivers side vent $50 R32 GTR OEM Twin Turbo pipe (used) $100 R32 GTR OEM coil packs (used) $50 Ruzic II 4WD controller (used) $500 R32 carbon boot lid with carbon N1 lip and genuine R35 GTR badge. Boot lid has crazing all through the clear/resin, N1 lip is perfect, so is the badge. $500 R32 GTR series 2 textured center console surround in mint condition with lighter (used) $500 R32 GTR series 2 textured center console surround with a crack at the very bottom next to gear boot, and one broken tab at the very top $100 Sparco Sprint V fixed back seats. Pair, no rails. Very little use, some marks from storage but no tears. $500 Open to offers within reason. Items are located just south of Wollongong. Willing to post smaller items at buyers expense, larger items like ducting, seats and boot lid prefer pick up. There will be more to come as I get through everything. I will upload pics when I get a chance.
  11. Looking to buy good condition rear pillar trims for r32 sedan
  12. Ok been going through bunch of boxes I had stored in Japan which I sent to Oz. I have 3 brand new sets each of the following Splitfire Coilpacks. These are 100% genuine brand new unused Spliftire Coilpacks. SF-DIS-001 SF-DIS-005 Cost is $450 Plus post.(around $20 or less) Can be Posted anywhere in Australia
  13. Howdy, long story short, I took my car for a 10 minute drive up the road and back. After not driving it for about 3 - 4 hours i decided to move it BUT when I went to crank it the fuel pump didn’t prime it made a humming noise but wasent priming. I checked fuses, ground and still no luck. Next I replaced fuel pump and fuel relay and got a electrician to do it so it’s not dodgy. The fuel pump did the same thing as the last one hummed but didn’t prime and now it isn’t even humming? What should I try next cheers
  14. Set of Genuine Nismo LMGT4 by Rays Engineering. Rare Anodized Bronze Colour Square set Size: 17 x 9J PCD: 5x114.3 Offset: +22 255/40/ZR17 Tyres all round 2 brand new Federal 595 RS-RR 2 Federal 595 RSR with 50% tread Very good condition, no gutter rash. Only slight scratches on mounting holes as they were fitted to a GTR. No swaps. Can organize freight at buyers cost $3,999 ONO Please call or message on 0452050005
  15. Hi Guys, It's been a while, I am a Kiwi who moved over to Japan a few years back and have settled in Tokyo. I have always loved the R32, have owned a couple of GTST's before and since I am in Japan now, decided to go for gold and score the best possible BNR32 I can get my hands on. The car arrived on a truck a few days back and gotta say, as it is my dream car, no words can explain my joy at the moment, Nismo and Nissan have been on the ball resupplying the parts for the R32, and I have no shortage of parts supply if something needs attention for now... I guess that is one of the advantages of living here, During the whole purchasing ordeal, there has been a lot of processes involved and Japan in my opinion, has their way of doing things, so no let's wing it attitude sits in well with these folks lol. It took a couple of weeks to get the Japanese version of WOF called "Shaken" but overall, besides the RIDICULOUS parking costs, all was pretty smooth. I miss NZ where you can just park on your own driveway, In Tokyo, you will be doing well if you find one below $300 per month. Now Let's Talk about the car, Pretty standard, nothing in the engines has been touched, currently tuned to 380ps. Model 1991 Skyline GTR R32 BNR32 Milage: 47000km Engine: Stock Turbo: Twin HKS 2510, HKS turbine outlet Cooling: ARC intercooler, HKS IC piping kit, Intake: ARC Super Induction box Exhaust: Apex front pipe, Apex RS muffler, Suspension / Drivetrain: HKS reinforced clutch (I think it's a twin push type early model, absolute B**itch to drive in in traffic, real narrow biting point and very sensitive), Ohlins suspension, Tein pillow ball tension rod Brakes: Winmax brake pads Electrical: HKS EVC5, Tomei Speedometer, Trust gauges in the glovebox, Defi Boost gauge on Steering wheel column Will provide pics soon Interior: Nismo seat covers, Italvolanti steering wheel Wheel: Volkracing CE28N 8.5X17 +22 , Tires: Dunlop Direzza Z3 255-40-17 I may have missed something but this is the current status of the car. I don't plan to go tracking but want to escape the city on the weekends to explore the less populated areas of Japan, I will probably be on the sensible side when it comes to driving on foreign lands. I absolutely love the car after taking it out on the highway, it was an absolute pleasure to dive, the sound, the pull everything was better than I hoped. I should be posting the slight issue on another section but as I have your attention, I wished to ask you guys quickly. On the way back, from the very awesome drive, some car far ahead had an accident in the tunnel and I ended up being stuck in heavy traffic, I have a clutch setup which seems to be one of the worst most sensitive (only on 1st year, either from standstill, or rolling very slowly), unforgiving setups I have ever driven, NOT fun stuck in traffic jam for an hour, If you guys have any suggestions for a street usable/friendly clutch ideas, please feel free to let me now, something that does not give you a dead leg even if you are stuck behind traffic, and something that allows a smoother start on 1st gear, right now, I have to give it gas about 2-3000rpm and release the clutch very very gently or the ting just tries to launch and hop etc. I have heard the Nismo twin plate? ones were good, but not sure it will be better than my old HKS setup and in what way, my one feels very sensitive (narrow biting point if that makes sense) they can be a pain to drive in traffic etc.. Anyways, Thank you for reading my post and I wish to catch up with any GTR owners based in Tokyo! hit me up if you are around.
  16. While driving home from work, my R32 died. Dash lights lit up and it stalled. It fired back up and then died again a few seconds later. No crazy sounds. The weird thing is that the dash lights and radio lights turn on when you head light knob, but nothing else turns on. If you try and start it, nothing happens. No clicking, no fuel pump priming, nothing. This happened once about 6 months ago and I took it to a mate in town to check it out. It fired right up for him and the problem couldn't be duplicated. Couldn't make it stall again. I feel like it's an electrical issue somewhere, but unsure where to start other than fuses. The clock has always been intermittent since I have owned the car. It comes on when first started, but eventually just turns off. This morning, it came on and off 4 or 5 times which lead me to believe something was up. This evening is when the issues started. The car also has a "flicker" issue that I have always noticed. The headlights will flicker every 5-30 seconds, but there is no consistency to it. My wife doesn't see it, but it's obvious to me. Has anyone had a similar issues? I've searched and found issues w/fuel pumps, alternators, batteries, etc. The big thing that seems different is that with all these issues, the car at least tries to turn over. Wondering if it's some random ground wire somewhere.
  17. Wrecking a white R32 GTS-4 sedan (4 door). Also some left over parts from another white r32 sedan. Parts in fair to good condition. Some parts are already gone, here's what remains - Shell, no crash damage, small amount of rust. Mostly stripped (not rolling). Able to be registered. Suit reshell or front cut for a GT-R. $500 Front RH door x 2, $40ea Front LH door, $40 Rear RH door x 2, $40ea Rear LH door, $40 Bonnet, $40 Front guards (pair), $40ea Front bumper (unmodified), $70 Front bumper (cut for FMIC), $50 Rear bumper (unmodified), $60 Rear bumper (cut for towbar), $30 Rear bumper iron x 2, $40ea Taillights, $20ea Headlights, $40ea Random plastics, from $5 Full front chassis loom (unmodified), suit R32 GT-R, $50 OE control boxes GTSt (RB20DET) OE ECU, $25 GTS4 (RB20DET with ATTESSA output) OE ECU, $25 ATTESSA ECU, $25 HICAS ECU x 2, $10 Drivers window control switches, $20 Other as pictured $5 I'll take some photos of the shell and other random parts tomorrow and post below. Strictly pickup from Ringwood East, Vic only. Price negotiable. email twinvl@hotmail.com or PM Thanks, Darren.
  18. The time has come for me to sell my 1994 R32 GTR V-SPEC. Year: 1994 Make: Nissan Model: Skyline R32 GTR V-SPEC Colour: KL0 Spark Silver Metallic Odometer: 55xxx kms Price: 50,000 AUD Location: Perth, WA This is a February 1994 V-SPEC, the last of the V-SPEC 1s before the V-SPEC 2 was introduced in March 1994 (V-SPEC 1 #1352 of 1396). Reason for sale – I bought this car 7 years ago, before marriage and children. Unfortunately, as much as I’d love to keep it as a future collectable, it just doesn’t work as a second family car. In my time of ownership I think I would have done less than 6,000kms. Recent service – by August 2018 the car had sat for 18 months while I built a new house. I took it to Galvsport here in Perth for a full service. In addition to the usual engine oil / gearbox oil / sparkplugs, I had the injectors cleaned, a bunch of fuel hose / wastegate hose / steering hose replaced and dump pipe re-wrapped. The entire rear subframe was also removed so that all subframe bushes could be replaced along with gearbox crossmember bushes, wheel alignment done, etc. New Optima D34 dry cell battery was put in the car last month. Modification list, some done by me and some done by prior owners: Engine: R34 GT-R V-SPEC2 engine VIPEC ECU, runs on E85 Garrett GT35R turbo 6Boost manifold 50mm Turbosmart external wastegate with screamer pipe. Plumb back pipe included. HKS 272 cams Adjustable cam gears LS2 coil pack conversion Deautschwerks 1200cc injectors Sard fuel rail Sard fuel pressure regulator Galvsport custom catch can Battery relocated to the boot Larger capacity sump (believe its Hi Octane) N1 oil pump Nismo 1.5 way front diff Trust oil filter relocation kit with Mocal oil cooler Custom intake and heatwrapped dump/front pipes Warlbro fuel pump with direct power source Braided oil and water lines HKS intercooler HKS Silent Hi-Power exhaust Exedy twin plate clutch and light weight flywheel Tuned on E85 to 610rwhp @ 22psi by Sean at All Star Garage. Wheels, Suspension and Brakes: ETS PRO ATTESSA controller Genuine Work Meister S1 3P 18x10.5 (gloss black with chrome rivets) Federal RSR tyres Diff reconditioned by Greg “Dalspec”. Breakaway torque increased. Backlash reset MCA X-R coilovers Front Cusco tension rods Front UAS pivoting adjustable camber arms Unknown brand adjustable rear camber arms HICAS removed and lock bar installed Whiteline front & rear swaybars Strut bars front and rear (Cusco) Interior: Nismo 260kph dash ATTESSA controller along with 2WD/4WD switch Autowatch alarm system with inbuilt turbo timer Just replaced the c-pillar trims with brand new ones No tears or rips on the seats Body: N1 vents N1 boot lip (not installed but included in sale) N1 side skirts N1 rear spats 6000k HIDs Air con was removed at some point but have all the parts to go back in. Any standard parts that I have removed from the car have been kept and will go with it (e.g. the standard single DIN 3-gauge in dash cluster, heater / aircon controller, etc.). Asking price is $50,000. Please no time wasters or test pilots. There will be no joy rides. Test drives will only be for the genuinely interested and at my discretion. Please have your finances sorted before you view the car. Viewing won’t be at the car’s storage location but happy to meet at a mutually suitable location in the Subiaco area. You can reach me on 0402 141 438. I am located in Perth, WA. Cheers James
  19. My tuner just did some before and after pulls with HKS Vcam and shared on his Facebook. I would like to share that here for those thinking about Vcam. His car is still running on stock R32 turbos with steel turbine wheels. The pulls were done on E60 ethanol mix. https://www.facebook.com/houston.zauto/posts/1368728369930762
  20. HKS oil cooler kit for R32 GTR Comes with everything to bolt on Decent condition as pictured Located Sydney $500 ono
  21. Would love to see everyone's GTR's So i'll start it off. hrere's mine "99 BNR34 in Bayside Blue
  22. Damn R32s are getting had to find in South Australia!! have had one in the shed for around 4 years now and planned on putting 180sx rocket bunny flares on it, like the pic below. the front fine, can always get new front guards if i hate it, BUT the rear is a lot of cutting and theres no going back from it. I just dont know if i can bring myself to cut it!!! never thought id say that about a run of the mill 32 gtst!!!!!!!!! im just really struggling with it haha on 1 hand i can have a wide car and put some awesome rims on it........ on the other hand i dont know if i can bring myself to cutting it up, theres no going back. but never found a set of rims i love on a standard / rolled 32 gtst any pics of awesome looking wheels on stock ish body 32s? specs?
  23. For sale. NISMO blank key. Uncut 8 Point. Box is in fair condition but in one piece. Key is in excellent as new condition. No scratchesdents marks or blemishes. Bought from Kudos Motorsport through this forum years ago before being discontinued. Price includes registered Australia Post. International buyers welcome . Pm with any questions. $550.00 including postage. Thanks. Russ.
  24. Hi there Have completed conversion from Auto to Manual on my 25de using a 20det box for the most part all I have left is wiring. I’ll be using manual wiring. My question is what is the go to for the inhibitor and also reserve wiring? I’m aware that the inhibitor needs to be bridged but can anyone point me in the direction to which wiring is what or throw a few photos my way if I’m lucky. cheers (p.s first conversion done so am bit of a noob when it comes to wiring haha)
  25. After 4 years at about 350kw I went in to my tuner after I installed my new intercooler to get a checkup. All 6 cylinders had awesome compression and the dyno still showed 354kw atw (lower conversion method used as well). Looking at the shops workers car with the same head setup and turbos using E30 he was getting 437KW...a big jump in response. It convinced me this E thing is worth the investment - now to order some Speedflow 200 series lines. How long are the stock lines in an R32 I cant find anything about that. I know the car is 4500mm. So I was going to get 13m should be enough for 2 feed lines and 1 return. Surely someone has noted it before Thanks.
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