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  1. Hello, names Kyle long time reader of these forums as ive been looking for a r32 for a while now and I am finally a happy owner so thought id make an account haha ! Here is my 89” R32 gts-t (RB25det NEO) Few basic modifications/upgrades coil over suspension, exhaust, fmic, injectors, coils, TD06-20G Kinugawa turbo w/ external gate, powerFC having car tuned in the next week as it is running slightly rich and will have some numbers to share?
  2. Hi all, I stripped out all of the old sound deadening material from my R32 GT-R in prep for replacement. In doing so, the rubber grommets / plugs / covers (take your pick of name) in the floor were removed. Most were either somewhat perished, had shrunk or were destroyed by removing the sound deadening. I have bought all of the replacement parts. I have had a bit of a search and looked through the workshop manual but have not been able to identify: What product should be used to seal the plugs? I am not fussed about using the original product (would prefer not to) but what would be suitable sealant to use now? Some were sealed in using something akin to the seam sealant but this required a combination of dry ice and a hammer to remove. Which plugs should be sealed? Obviously those that cover bolts that need to be removed for maintenance shouldn't be sealed. Also some that I would have thought shouldn't be sealed were or randomly / partially sealed. E.g. 74300AA / 06212-5500P in the spare wheel compartment was sealed when I thought that was supposed to be able to serve as a drain if required (R33 Boot - Water Leak) Pictures from Nissan FAST for reference showing the plugs in question: Cheers Rob
  3. Hi All, Been a while since i was on here and in a skyline, but im pleased to say that im now the proud owner of this R32 engineered with an RB25DET NEO and heaps of fruit! Spec is as follows:- Engine & Drivetrain:- 105,000km’s Engineered 365kw Rb25det neo Set up with Boost by gear. As follows 18psi 1st, 2nd and 25psi 3rd, 4th, 5th on e85 18psi on 98 Gtx 3076 .82r garrett with speedflow fittings and braided lines ATP catch can with speedflow -10 braided lines and fittings 50mm gen V turbosmart external waste gate Spitfire coils Custom 3 inch dump into 4 inch HKS exhaust ARP head studs Bosch 1250cc injectors Turbosmart fuel reg Turbosmart fuel filter Walbro 460l fuel pump with relay Haltech elite 2500 49mm Koyo type r copper radiator Brand new Rb25 gearbox, exedy sports tuff HD clutch with upgraded pressure plate and one piece tailshaft 4.3 diff gears 1.5 way nismo diff Interior:- Haltech racepack street dash Aem oil pressure gauge Aem wideband Turbo smart boost gauge on pillar Suspension & Handling:- Cusco street zero adjustable coilovers R33 Front lower control arms Adjustable castor rods Exterior:- Genuine N1 headlights Genuine GTR bonnet, Genuine GTR front bar Genuine GTR grill Genuine 17x9 3 Piece BBS LMs wrapped in Hankook rs4s ICE:- Alpine Double DIN Headunit Kicker Amp Kicker 6x9's Kicker Front Speakers c/w tweeters and crossovers Current plans are:- raise it up a little bit 10-15mm remove some camber from the front, buy some new rear tyres wire up the wipers carbon front lip (to replace the flaking stock one) enjoy driving it!! Now for the pictures!
  4. As a previous owner of a tuned Champion Blue R32 GTR, I had the pleasure of reviewing a similar car last week here in Sydney. A very original R32 Silver JDM import with a few V-spec bits but pretty much standard. Many of you will be fully across this, but I thought you all might be enjoy our assessment and real drive, especially those considering buying one. You can let us know what you think in the comments (or of any glaring inaccuracies!).
  5. Alrighty guys, So i've had a number of skylines over the last 5 years, since getting my first one in 2014. A number of R33 drift cars, a R32 drift car in japan @ ebisu circuit (for sale atm if anyone is keen :D), my original green 32 which I've built up over the last 5 years to a 500hp rb25 neo street weapon (this is also for sale...) With the rising prices of GTR's these last few years..I thought I would never be able to afford a proper GTR without selling everything I own haha. I recently came across someone with a bare non rolling R32 GTR shell which luckily had not been posted for sale online. Luckily over the years, I have amassed quite a number of GTR body parts. The plan is to pretty well fully rebuild the car with as much new items as possible (while not going crazy over the top). This will take me a long time, but I hope to keep these page updated (unlike my first build post haha).
  6. Hey guys and girls I have been looking into fitting a T56 6 speed manual gearbox or TR606 to my R33 GTR I have carried out allot of research I have found out RWD conversions are possible and have been done but no one has done a AWD conversion that I have been able to find. I think this could be a viable and cost effective option for people who are looking for a quiet street able gearbox which is capable of handling high HP. Now the cost for a setup like this could range from $6000 to $8000 that is a estimate at this stage the first unit would more than likely be more expensive but with more interest these costs could fall The T56 Magnum would probably be the gearbox of choice as it is the strongest syco box they do Able to withstand a massive 700 lb-ft. of torque while providing unbelievably crisp shifts, no other manual transmission on the planet offers as much combined strength, versatility, and general ease-of-use as the T-56 Magnum. Known in its original equipment form as the 'TR-6060', the Magnum is an aftermarket version of the same transmission found in many of today's most celebrated factory super cars – including the ZR1 Corvette and ACR Viper – giving you refinement where you want it and strength where it counts. Other positives about these gearboxes are gear sets PPG have dog configurations and sequential setups for the more hardcore drivers. I personally wouldn’t see the point all you would do is fit a PPG setup to the factory 5 speed. The bell housing is also allot larger this may offer GTR owners more clutch options more surface area and the possibility to run a nicer street able clutch (sprung centre) The biggest positive is retaining the 4WD and for me that the game changer. This isn't set in stone as yet, I am looking for advice and wisdom there is a huge amount of knowledge on this forum and would love to hear your thoughts and comments thanks for your time Frosty
  7. I got this car in pretty rough shape but it had a running 25 neo, haltech and a specialties engine harness. It didnt run well, awful ecu calibration, blown tomei turbo, a fuel pump flying around the fuel tank and a parasitic drain on the battery. Ive had it for about a 1.5 years now at the time of starting this thread and Ive been thru every part of this car. Ive converted to electric fans, created a few relay circuits to eliminated the battery drain, relocated the battery and this list goes on and on. Its a fun side project so things aren't in a rush and I don't daily drive the car. It sees a few track days but I mostly run my Camaro ss for those. All work is done by me in my garage, even the ECU calibration. The over all paint job was sent to a body shop though. So current mod list is Engine-Rb25 neo stock with smoothed exhaust port humps Tomei MX8265 rebuilt, 3inch side exit, Greddy FMIC, Haltech platinum,Tomei timing belt, Denso 550cc, zerofab fuel rail, DW400 pump, unknown IM and 90mm TB, grimmspeed boost controller, Ebay radiator,hks cap, mishimoto fans, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 12lb flywheel Chassis- S15 Helical LSD, delrin subframe bushings, spherical rear tie rods and rucas, KBee coilovers altered spring rates, 300zx calipers, powerstop trackday pads, steel lines, Impul R5 wheels, 255/40r17 R888r, corner balanced, half stripped interior r32 gtr seats, personal steering wheel, gktech shifter springs and brass collar, poly steering rack bushings, spherical tension rods, s13 rear sway bar Seized and rusted ISR coilovers that came with the car had to be cut off the front stud Clutch fan failure is the reason I went electric New Shoes Then on to body work, dent repair and deleting the type M wing and making holes for the GTR wing Subframe refresh The used Kbee coilovers needed new bushings but I cant get in touch with them so I fitted some VW bus sway bar bushings into them haha nasty sound deading removal with dry ice Align and balance, thats the before weights Stock turbo dyno 248whp at 14psi
  8. Well my build has begun...GTR life Bought a brand new coolant bottle, bonnet cowl and rubber, new clips for the front grill. Also got a new GTR badge for the boot, original GTR key and a nice little Nismo key ring Will start fitting things this weekend, also going to wire in my sub and amp and tune the stereo. I've also changed the steering wheel to my mono 'race' wheel. When I got time I'll post my list of things I have decided to do. Love this car, love driving it, love playing with it,
  9. Hey Guys, I've seen quite a few different ways to mount a battery in the trunk but a lot of them involved welding or drilling holes into the chassis itself so I did a little experiment to see if there was a method that was non permanent (at least the battery mounting part). I started by cutting out a piece of plywood using the trunk carpet as a stencil. Then I started making a box. Since I didn't have a welder I used two different methods. For one piece I cut out a piece of metal and bent it into a U shape to make the bottom and two of the sides. Then I cut out one side and created a few 90 degree brackets and riveted them to hold one side. The other side I wanted to see if it would be easier to just make another U and rivet that on. After the box was assembled the rest was pretty easy. I drilled holes from the box into the wood, through the carpet to where I wanted to mount it. I also put a layer of foam on the bottom of the wood and countersunk screws to keep the bottom as smooth as possible. Test fit the battery. (Note: I had to cut the wood in half to get the whole thing into the trunk.) Put a foam sheet at the bottom of the box to protect the bottom of the battery from the hardware sticking up. I'll probably revisit this to make the wood a little more sturdy but here is the end product. (The extra hole was from before I put the foam in, I thought I needed it to feed the wire through lol) Not my best work putting the box together. I'll definitely re make the box to make it more aesthetically pleasing, maybe paint it.
  10. Hey everyone, ever since I was around 10-12 (im 17 now) I have had me eyes set on buying an R32 GTS-T, but I was told multiple times because they're turbocharged I wouldn't be able to get one until i'm 25, but recently i've read up on a few sources that in QLD you can own and drive a turbocharged R32 GTS-T on P's because they are about 123 kW/T and the max is 125 kW/T, if this is true I also read up that you need an exemption, what would I have to do to be able to drive one? (I'm aware im prolly gonna get some comments saying its not worth it, or that i'm going to get pulled over all the time etc etc, but i honestly don't mind this is my dream car an im down to go through all that.) Sincerely Kye. Please let me know if this is the wrong area of the forum to be asking.
  11. R32 GTR welded rear diff My rear diff is welded. If I want to get rid of it what is the best course of action? Not saying I will asit doesn't really bother me. I just want to see options and price here. - buy oem parts and Bring it back to what it was from the factory? or - buy aftermarket because there's better stuff out there? And what do you guys recommend? Car is basically stock and is pretty much only used to have fun on backroads on the weekend. Cheers!
  12. So this is my first ever write up and unfortunately I didn’t take very many progress pictures but I will try my best to explain the process with some picture aids ?? Materials: * plastic floor trim 96in x 6in x 5/16 (x2) you can get these at Lowe’s or Home Depot * 3 inch L brackets (x8) Found at Lowe’s * Self tapping screws ( to mount brackets to car) * Hardware to mount bracket to skirt extensions ( I used black license plate hardware with plastic backings x16) Tools: Grinder, drill, something to cut the plastic trim with. Process: So for a sedan with stock type M skirts the overall length is 73 inches (coupes might be different I suggest measuring before cutting). After this you want to get the skirt extension as level as you can between the front and rear low points to do this I used various objects like toolboxes and children’s books I started with measuring out the two brackets that would be in the center of the skirt, I measured from the top of the pinch weld to the bottom of the skirt extension. If i remember correctly it was roughly 1.25-1.5 inches, always cut bigger than you think as you can grind down the bracket until you have a perfect fit. The end result would be for the top of the bracket to be flush with the top of the pinch weld, Once you have the bracket cut to the right spot and the bottom arm of the bracket gently rests against the skirt with the various objects keeping the skirt level then you mark the hole with a sharpie and install the bracket. Once you have the two center brackets installed to the car you can drive some temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension to hold it in place as well as Mark the holes for the permanent hardware. Now it’s time to work on the ends, these are a little more complex to line up and install as you have to more aware of the jacking locations. Front Rear For the front I had to turn my steering wheel to gain access to inside of the wheel well and feel for a flush surface to mount the bracket to, as i held the bracket against the surface and lined it up with the bottom of the skirt extension i used a sharpie to mark the hole and kinda outline the bracket so i had a general idea of where to drill once I jacked the car up and got under it. If you’re pretty coordinated you could probably just blindly full send a screw through the hole. Same concept applied to the rear. Just make sure you have plenty of space between the bracket and the jack pad as you will have to trim the inside of the skirt to have room to use the the jack pads. Once the skirt extension is mounted you can mark where you need to cut to allow a floor jack access to the pads. Once the ends are installed drive some temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension. Or just mark the holes on the bottom with a sharpie to drill later. Now all that’s left is marking the area to cut for the jack pads, uninstall the skirt extension and make the cuts. Unfortunately my car is too low to use the jack pads without the floor jack arm making contact with the skirt extension, to get around this I either jack up the car from the differential, use the emergency jack, or you could potential use something on the floor jack pad to help it gain elevation before the arm makes contact with the extension. After i made the cuts i reinstalled everything with the temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension and made sure everything was still level. Once I was happy with it I uninstalled everything including the brackets and prepped for paint. At this point I drilled out the holes to accommodate the permanent hardware ( I would try and find something that has a really flush bolt head for a cleaner look) Once the extensions and brackets are painted it’s time to install everything, make sure you remember which bracket goes where or you will be making extra adjustments and possibly drilling new holes. To install the hardware through the top you will need to install the brackets to extensions first then install the entire assembly on the car. After the brackets are installed on the extension I would suggest to install the center two brackets first and then work the ends. I hope this write up helps anyone trying to do this, and if you have any questions send me a pm and I’ll do my best to answer them ??
  13. I previously posted about some window retainers, well things have changed. I'm after the drivers side glass and rear quarter glass. Someone decided to smash my ones. I know the rear quarter is a bit hard to get out but if anyone has one lying around, let me know.
  14. A local friend of mine has made his very own cup holder inserts for the center console that fit like a dream! If anyone is interested he’s letting them go for $45USD +shipping. If not, check out mine! B39010ED-57C4-4B39-8ED3-DB64BFC92898.MP4
  15. Hi Guys, I haven't forgot about the indicators integrated with the GT badge! i have just had a heap of work and other more pressing projects on the go lately..... one of them being this. As many have before I have deleted the air con on my 32... but unlike most I haven't stopped at engine bay, my plan was to delete the box under the dash as well but keep the blower motor and heater functioning....and maintain a working digital climate control (well minus the cooling bit.) The only way i could find to do this originally was to buy an N1 'AC box' and the manual climate control unit (N1's came out with no AC) which believe it or not is expensive, difficult to get a hold of and means you need to get rid of the sweet climate control set up. so instead i wasted a heap of time and came up with these; Now as you can see it's missing the ducting part but i wanted to ensure i could sort the difficult part first before dealing with that, so after getting $$$$ quotes to 3D print parts i wasn't sure would even work I bit the bullet and bought this.. and after converting computer speak to printer speak and 16 hours of printing later, this; turned into this; thanks for looking, I will have more shortly as i'm looking to wrap these up within the next few weeks
  16. Hey all, Due to some recent upgrades and to sell a couple of unused items, I have the following gear for sale. All items are in working order (except where noted) and were removed from a 1990 R32 GT-R making just over 300KW. But....in some cases they are 28ish years old so "caveat emptor". Please consider this if you are interested. Collection in Melbourne. GT-R Stuff 1. R32 GT-R OEM Intercooler Price: $100.00 Reason for sale: upgraded to a new Plazmaman cooler 2. SOLD Apexi Power FC (no hand controller) Price: $200.00 Reason for sale: replaced with Nistuned OEM ECU 3. SOLD R32 GT-R Twin Turbo Pipe Price: $30.00 Reason for sale: replaced with a wrinkle black painted pipe 4. SOLD R32 GT-R OEM Coilpack, igniter etc. Price: $50.00 Reason for sale: upgraded to Alpha Omega Racing ACDelco Coil setup 5. GONE R32 GT-R Gearbox - SUIT A REBUILD Price: $270.00 Reason for sale: replaced with a brand new R33 S3 gearbag Note 1: I don't have any pictures of this as it is in storage. Note 2: Early model push type box Note 3: I believe that the gearset is OK but synchros are knackered Note 4: It was very difficult to engage 1st gear but the clutch was also on death's door Note 5: Did I mention that it it needs a rebuild? Note 6: Comes with free oil 6. SOLD 6 x RC Racing Injectors Price: $25.00 Reason for sale: replaced with new injectors to support E85 Note 1: I don't believe these are very good so "caveat emptor" as per above. Note 2: I think they are 850cc Other stuff 7. 2 x Philips Xenon D1S X-tremeVision gen2 (BNIB) Price: $150.00 Reason for sale: I was going to use these in another car but went a different route. They are brand new and have not been removed from packaging. I think that I paid about $350.00 for these. 8. SOLD Pioneer TSWX305B Bass Reflex Subwoofer (BNIB) Price: $45.00 Reason for sale: TBH, I don't know why I bought this. Possibly drunk. It would never have fit in anything that I owned at the time. Stock pic below I am open to reasonable offers and will ship via E-Go. If anything is way over priced, then please don't sledge like you are David Warner (when he was allowed on the pitch); just let me know or - if you are interested - send me a link to a realistic price. There is also a bag with some additional screws / bolts / etc. so if something appears to be missing, let me know. Cheers Rob
  17. I have just bought a r34 and was wondering as the ecu in the r34 is bust Wether I could buy a r32 ecu and use that instead. Is that possible ? Or a r33 ?
  18. Hi people, I have an R32 GTR that has been sitting since 2006. I’m about to start a resto on it. The panel where the blue I.D tag and the factory stamped vin will need to be replaced due to rust. The new panel will not have the vin stamp in it, will this cause issue with getting it rego again. I have all the sales invoices and old rego papers for it in my name.
  19. Hello all, I've been contemplating about putting a red top Barra engine into a R32 gtst coupe to make it a good reliable weekend warrior drift car and a daily driver at the same time. That's why I am here to ask some questions and learn from yall. Since the Barra makes a lot more torque even in stock form, should I use a stronger diff from other brands or will a Nismo 2 way LSD do just fine? Also what axles would you recommend? (preferably if the items are compatible with the R32 without a lot of fabrication) I've heard the Barra comes with a T56 manual 6 speed gearboxe, does the shifter still sit at the OEM location as the R32 original one? In terms of the Barra engine itself I've done some research and learned that you need to address the valve springs and change to billet oil pump gears and so on, more suggestions will be appreciated as I want to learn as much as possible! (I am most likely going to go about 550whp/410kw and keep the power at that level, not chasing too much power.) Also here is one big question: How much kg does the Barra long block itself weight? I've been searching on the internet and couldn't seem to find a confident answer. I want to know this because I want the car to have good handling, some people say the Barra is heavier than a RB30, some people say its actually lighter than both a JZ or RB, if anyone here has measured a Barra long block on a scale please let me know ? If there are more things that I should look into please feel free to add ? Thanks in advance!! ?
  20. WTB R32 GTR front bumper and gaurds and bonnet. Don’t want fibreglass. Only plastic (or metal for the bonnet) Bonus points for genuine Parts. Located in NSW-SYDNEY thanks
  21. Hi guys, I'm after a decent condition (doesn't have to be mint at all) R32 GTR bonnet in KH2 - Gun Grey Metallic. I recently bought an R32 gtr and it has a horribly fitting fibreglass bonnet that doesn't line up at all, and makes the whole car look cheap. I've been keeping an eye on ebay and gumtree etc for the last few weeks and can't find a thing! Please someone help me out! -Dave PS, I'm located in canberra but regularly come up to sydney, and am happy to pay for freight from anywhere in australia to me in canberra.
  22. Hey all, Got into a prang with my R32 GTST. As per pictures, it was a front-on collision that took out the front bumper completely, all front lights, radiator and a few other bits. Looking to get rid of it ASAP. The engine seems fine, starts instantly, and the car can still move (note I don't say drive). The steering is fouled by the damage. Specs: RB25DET w/ roughly 170,000kms RB20 5 speed Z32 ECU w/nistune Ebay turbo (was working fine on 12psi) GTR pump I am NOT parting the car, selling whole. Best offer by Friday 29/1/16 can take it, I need it gone. Car is located in Guildford 2161. PM if interested. Thanks for your time.
  23. have my mid mount gtx3071 .82 of my r32 for sale. turbo/wastegate/bov/fabwork/lines are all no more than 3months old with MAX 3000kms, I fitted the turbo drove to queensland did matsuri and drove it home, I then broke my leg not long after and car has sat in garage since. I want to sell it all together at the moment but will eventually break it up if no one is interested, this is perfect for someone wanted to save some cash and avoid police issues by keeping stock manifold and out of sight mid mounted. will fit 32/33 will fit r34 but not sure if it will match up to stock air box location? will also fit ceffy and rb20/25 powered car basically contains: gtx 3071 (new type with the upgraded bearing cartridge) . 82 coated housing with 40mm turbosmart welded to housing with stainless screamer pipe. 40mm turbosmart with upgraded 14psi spring custom intake pipe suit afm and airbox with bov return 30mm stealth turbosmart plumb back bov standard manifold with longer studs/nuts and spacer to suit heat sheild 2x genuine Nissan turbo gaskets speedflow oil feed line and fittings speedflow coolant lines with fittings custom oil return with quality oil specific silicon hose joiner cross over pipe with bov to suit intake pipe 3 inch v band dump to suit r32/r33 with v band clamp hks elbow to suit plumbing basically all you need to fit up to your car and away you go (bar one coolant line that im keeping) made 275kw on 21psi pump 98 on my rb25. with dodgy boost controller. builds boost from 2k and comes on song 3800rpm has more in it with proper boost controller. drives really nice motor loves the housing revs very free now. I also have a greddy return flow cooler kit that fits this all, can do a combo deal if someone wanted everything. this is a legit no expense spared kit I never planned to sell but as usual a bigger turbo setup came up for sale that I couldn't pass on. i am in Hornsby for pickup or can send aswell, if you want more/better pictures msg me and ill be happy to send through chasing $2800 for everything, can take parts out for cheaper, either way if someone wanted to do this setup half the works already done 0419469108 cheers harry
  24. Located VIC 3978. $9500. Price negotiable. Selling due to need for 4x4 for work related reasons and to be completely honest, all the car needs is a financially stable owner. Due to a string of bad luck I've been unable to maintain employment for more than ~ 4 months at a time since purchasing the vehicle. More pics @ instagram.com/cevlol 1993 Series 2 GTS4 sedan, white. Engine: 152xxx K's (speedo swapped out, original one f**ked). Fairly stock RB20DET Turbosmart boost controller. Remapped stock ECU. 42mm Alloy Radiator. Custom FMIC w/ Ford core, shorter piping, more spool w/ brand new Proflow joiners + brand new hose clamps. No BOV, can plumb one in with silicone T piece for RWC. New water pump less than 7k's old. Full 3" turbo back w/ 3" dump/front pipe, stainless steel exhaust w/ high-flow cat & rear oval muffler. Note is 1hunnid. Brand new genuine Nissan oil filter, less than 1000k's ago. Brand new Motul Chrono Ether 300V 10W40 motor oil, doesn't need to be replaced for 9,000k's. Brand new BCPR6ES plugs, less than 1000k's ago. Interior: Brand new R34 V-Spec Aluminium Pedal set. Brand new Superior Auto Creative Carbon shift & handbrake boots. Brand new Nissan shift knob. Factory Series 2 GTST/GTS4 seats in very good condition. Factory GTST/GTS4 steering wheel. Exterior: Brand new R32 GTR N1 front bar w/ eBay FRP vents. Brand new R32 GTR N1 front reo. Brand new Bosch Aerotwin Flat Wiper Blades. VGC genuine R32 GTR front lip, could use respray but otherwise perfect cond.Average condition R32 GTR wing FRP, minor hole one side. Driveline: R32 GTR rear shocks. R32 GTS4 factory shocks. HICAS lock bar / eliminator kit. NISMO strut brace. Brand new Exedy HD Organic clutch, freshly machined stock flywheel, less than 1000k's old. Penrite full synth in box atm. ATF in transfer case/ATTESSA. Custom 4WD/RWD toggle switch for sliding fun, don't use it often to be honest. Car stays in 4WD most of time. Brand new Nismo R32 GTR slave cylinder. Brand new HFM R32 master cylinder. 40% RWC tyres on R33 stockies. Misc: $1000 alarm system. Remote central locking, immobilizer + alarm. Receipts from myself + last two owners. High level brake light fitted to clear RWC fault as GTR wing is aftermarket. Headlight loom completely rewired, no f**k arounds. H1/H3 combo w/ T10 parkers. $3000 worth of sound gear, including Dynamat throughout. Can remove/include for adaptive pricing. Bad: Needs respray imho. White is 326 Crystal White but rough on quarter panels (in touch up paint atm, still very nice looking). Bonnet clear is well, peeling. 2nd gear very minor crunch. Could benefit from Redline treatment. Input shaft bearing noise when clutch not pressed, goes away after 5 min drive. Very common issue that does not affect performance. More pics @ instagram.com/cevlol Reply here and/or email: [email protected] Mobile outta order atm, changing carrier. No swaps, unless you have a dope D22 Nav w/ 150k's or less (friend's selling me his for $9k).
  25. Am in search for a P plate legal 34/32 or 180 as getting P's soon and need a ride. Need it to be around or under 6K and manual though. Open to suggestions and live in Wollongong 2525 Anyone knows any good cars being sold hit me up: [email protected]
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