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Build Thread

Found 1,871 results

  1. Yo... So, after picking up an RB25 block and crank cheap on here from AngryRB, a forged short block build project has been on the cards for the last few months as I already had a lot of parts left over from the last engine build. Will be using Ross Pistons, and I had been leaning towards Spool rods as they will no doubt handle the 600-700hp the engine is being built for. However, after posting a review of the maxpeedingrods turbo I used recently, which I found to be outstanding value for money, I was contacted by MaXpeedingRods asking me if I had any projects happening and if I was interested in using any of their other parts. They make a conrod for the RB25, and loads of other cars, but unfortunately I couldn't find any real info on them as far as the RB/skyline community goes, although a few reviews and a bit of info on other forums, and a more detailed review here https://bofiracing.co.uk/blog/maxpeedingrods-cheap-chinese-rods-our-verdict/ No real horror stories found, (only 2 issues on a VW forums which seemed to result from a rod bolt failure, rather than the rods themselves) with most of the negatives I found seeming to be the ol' " no way I'd use ebay parts" which to me is an attitude about 15 years out of date. After seeing their conrods and comparing the specs to Spool, Scat, Eagle rods, they seemed to be very comparable, (if not the same but rebranded), and MUCH cheaper. Then after discussing with them regarding the product and what my upcoming build will be needing, they have sent me a set which arrived within a few days from the AU warehouse - nice secure box with plenty of foam packing, each rod in a sealed bag and greasepaper-wrapped. The rod itself, when compared to the stock rod, there's no comparison. Nice even finish across it, laser-etched marking on the big ends showing the final measurements, the caps are dowelled giving a precise fitment on the rod. I was a little suss on the genuine-ity of the ARP fastener but have confirmed with ARP, yes they are an official ARP product, made under license. The block and crank are with the rebuilder at the moment (but have confirmed, the crank and bores have measured up fine, so thanks AngryRB ) and I will be dropping the rods into them next week for the engine balancing, so will post up their feedback on the rods shortly.
  2. G'day ppl could I get pointers on a full rebuild of anRB@% GTST Series II engine for 500 to 1000 hp. I'm after horsepower and reliability together I dont want to be breaking somthing all the time lol. How much roughly could the rebuild cost aswell rough figures of what other ppl have spent and the ideas aswell would be helpfull. Im also south of brissy qld so any shop recommendations would be greatfull to.
  3. So I went to start my car and there’s a blue led on my steering coulomb and when it lights up I can’t start the car. Sometimes it happens sometime it doesn’t, when the light is on there is a fast past clicking noise coming from under the dash, I have had a look and it seems to come from a small black box?? Any ideas on how to fix this. thanks in advance
  4. Steve's R33 LM Limited Upkeep Hi all, I've been stalking these pages for a quite a long time now. Thought i should throw my car up for everyone to look at. Some of you will be familiar with this car already as I purchased it from Gav in Perth. Gav had this car built by Glavsport and it has been a no expense spared build. With that in mind I too have decided to buy things once and any changes that go onto the car will be the highest quality I can reasonably manage. You may be aware that my start with this car was somewhat turbulent as someone tried to steal it from me on the first day I drove it. (See link: Steve's Intro ). Since then I have hidden the car away under lock and key (and other security measures). The car has just returned to me now from Racepace in Bayswater. We (well, not really we, more the guys at Racepace) made some changes to my car, repaired the damage from the break in and installed a new immobiliser and tracker. It's nice to have the car back in one piece and using a key to start it, rather than any flat item jammed into what was left of the ignition. One of the biggest issues I was having was fumes coming into the cabin from under the bonnet/car. It turned out to be a twofold issue. 1. The exhaust was pinched and suffering from E85 damage (it was a 3" mild steel exhaust) 2. The oil catch can breather may have been letting fumes into the air vents for inside the car. The guys at Racepace have fabricated and installed a brand new 3.5" exhaust with V-Bands and tuned length headers to solve the exhaust problems and they also rerouted the catch can fumes into the rear turbo so they are expelled through the exhaust. With the new exhaust it was necessary to re-tune the car on the dyno so this was also completed. As someone who doesn't get to drive fast cars much, millions of kWs were deemed unnecessary. I asked the guys specifically if they could turn the engine down to a level it will be happy to perform at for a long, long time. In tuning the car the guys turned the engine up to what they deemed a reasonable level, then turned it back down as I requested. The net result of the tuning was: Full power: 505.4kW (atw) at 27psi Final Tune: 410kW (atw) at 22psi I've also got some pictures of the exhaust going in and a dyno run video coming soon.
  5. So I bought a 1996 Nissan Skyline R33 in October last year and thought you know I'm going to enjoy the car as it is and slowly upgrade/fix things. For those looking for a car with massive amounts of power, this is not the build for you. This is for those who are like me (i'm sure you exist) who are happy with their stock car, and spend time washing, polishing, fixing things and just enjoying the car for what it is. I am an engineering student and also work part time which funds my car therefore everything is small and restricted. Many of you thinking, why bother with a build thread. My reply is because I can and why not. I have been reading other peoples threads and it has inspired me to start my own. Also I lost most of my pictures since October and am working on recovering them. So without further ado, here goes. This is my first car. I saved up for 2 years working on weekends to buy this. After a year of searching and finding all sorts of shit cars which had been modified, i found this bone stock Series 2 R33 GTST. The only thing upgraded was the audio and the wheels. I have the standard wheels sitting too just in case I need em one day. with ~158,000 kms (more on this later). I absolutely love it. I'm obsessed with cleaning it and my first aim was to fix everything that was not working or not working 100%. So the last 8 months have been small upgrades and improving things in the car. This is a picture of the day it came home. Instantly I decided it was time for a wash and a drive and photoshoot.
  6. looking for a pair of R33 gtr indicator surround been looking for ages but can only get the drivers side. im in brisbane QLD and am happy to pay postage
  7. Currently has a tune for 300 kw R33 Gtst - hypergear high flow turbo, nismo 740cc injectors, walbro 255, front mount intercooler and full 3" intercooler. So if you have similar mods you can run the ecu but a full tune for your car is recommended. I have bought another ecu to suit my needs, so want this gone asap (negotiable on $$ within reason). Features: Built in 4-bar MAP sensor to replace the factory airflow meter. VE tuning to simplify injector upgrades and simplify staging Easy to use software Plugs into factory wiring Compatible with many third party dashes and devices Full closed loop operation Flex fuel capable Launch control, antilag, flat shift and boost by gear all standard Semi sequential injection and wasted spark ignition Spare 0-5V analogue input On the GTR / R32, VVT output can be reassigned to a different function One additional spare aux output 3 spare digital inputs Spare temperature input Compatible with single and multi throttle body (for GTiR) tuning modes SPECIAL FEATURES This ECU also supports all the functions of the 440 ECU, however for advanced functions such as traction control, additional wiring and/or sensors will be necessary: Flex fuel function – fill it up with gas/petrol or any ethanol concentration Adaptive fuel control (self tuning) – reduces dyno time Traction control function Serial input for wideband O2 sensors (we recommend the MTXL) Serial output for communication with dashes and dataloggers (we recommend the Race Technology units) Headphone port for listening to the knock sensor while tuning Basic closed loop ignition control Closed loop fuel, idle, boost, 2 x variable valve timing control Easy to use software Dual maps (both maps required for GTiR for combined TPS / MAP tuning)
  8. Hey people! I've recently bought this 1996 series 2 R33 GTST sedan. When the guy was selling it, he advertised it as 'm-spec' A bit of study & I've realised there is no such thing. Rather 'M model' But the body kit I have on my car still doesn't match up when I search online for it. Any info on what particular model I have (If any) would be appreciated. I bought it for $9700, 111xxxkm, manual, complete stock, zero rust etc.. very well kept. Thanks for reading!
  9. My r33 S2 RB25DET has a rough idle after about 10 mins of driving when warmed up. It goes from like 200 RPM to 1000 RPM and some times stalls Ive tried to fix it by cleaning the AFM buying new coil packs and spark plugs. Car is stock apart from pod filter and front mount inter cooler also have a boost leak getting about 4psI could this be linked to the idle by any chance
  10. Hi All, Recently my A/C would only blow stinking hot air which was awfully uncomfortable to drive in but it's been too cold to have it off. It started off that it was sporadic but eventually got worse. After some soul searching I found out that the part is a the Air Mix/Blend actuator which controls how much fresh air vs heater air comes through the vents. Tools/Requirements: - Soldering Iron and Solder - Assorted Phillips head and flat head screw drivers - Vice to hold everything - Power supply to test the motor itself - Permanent marker to mark existing points - Sand paper Difficulty: - Low Time Required: - 1 Hour Optional: - Brand new OEM mix actuator - Used OEM working mix actuator 1) Start by testing the actuator using the diagnostics system - If you have error 26, the problem is most certainly the actuator http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426605-aircon-diagnostics-r33/ 2) Locate the actuator under the drivers side dash to the left 3) Remove cap holding the actuator rod in place, mark the rod for reference and pop the rod out of it's "seat" 4) Disconnect the wiring connector from the mix actuator 5) Remove the three securing screws shown below and take the actuator out of the car *over to the bench* 6) Mark some reference points on the arm for the actuator - This will make it easier to assemble again later 7) Unscrew the actuator off its mounting bracket 8) Remove the two screws that seal the housing 9) Using a flat head screwdriver gently pry the arm off the actuator 10) Separate the two clips that hold the housing together from the side and gently open the actuator case 11) Remove all of the little gears from the housing and set them aside somewhere they won't roll away 12) Remove the circuit board and motor from the housing to reveal the last large gear with contacts on it 13) Gently bend the contacts upwards to ensure they haven't been worn out and bent over time - Give the contacts a light sand at while you're at it 14) Clean the contact surface on the circuit board - I wasn't sure what sort of grease this was so I left a thin coat on the board anyway 15) Connect a power source to the motor terminals to ensure the motor still functions - If not see the options above or look at a replacement motor (from Jaycar or other electronics stores or eBay) 16) Take your soldering iron and melt the solder on the joints of the board - Take the time to add a bit more solder where necessary 17) If all went well work your way back from step 12 and test the actuator again
  11. Hello. I bought myt skyline 4yrs ago. First I drove it thru winter (surprisingly good winter ride). At the spring stock turbo waste got stuck. Car was 3 months in the carage. I put kinuqawa bolt on turbo and cheap low mount exhaust manigold. It was rest of the summer this way. Then I planned to do some little changes at the winter. But as many of you know things start to get bigger. I start building rollcage and strip whole car down. When car was tripped it would be stubid not to do some things like stich weldin and sandblasting the body etc. I also wanted to do some wisual mods and strip everything extra weight out from the body. Rollcage caused some changes also. Like stock heater system is not fitting anymore. Rear subfame and diff bushes changed to aluminium. Rear and front subframes and stock controll arms got some extra strenght also. Bash bars in front and back wore made from scratch. Now car is going back to gether slowly and I hope to get it done before 2030 🤣 Here is some picks of it. More you can see from my ig @nuut3ro
  12. I have a set of 18" Crimson Inc Club Linea alloys rims for sale. They are 18 x 8" 40 fronts, and 18 x 9" 38 rears. The PCD is 5 x 114.3, so can suit Toyota, Nissan, Ford, Mitsubishi and others.These fitted nicely on an R33 GTST, but will also fit many other cars. The rims are in good condition, and were repainted in a silvery bronze a few years ago. They include 4 centre caps. The front rims have R888r semi slicks fitted, but one is damaged. The rims are Japanese made, and good quality. Rims are in Adelaide, and local pickup is obviously preferred. Edit - forgot to add price - $600
  13. I am wanting to buy a 3inch 5 bolt dump pipe for my GT3076 turbo, preferably a split dump where the wastegate gasses meet the pipe further down. Alternatively If someone is able to fabricate one please let me know as well Car: R33 GTS-T Location: Melbourne SE
  14. Hey ladies and gents, have a few things for sale. VIC “96 GTRR” plates, never been on a car. - $500 ONO 34 GTR V-spec shafts - 1 has a damaged thread but shaft and cv’s are mint. - $300 ONO 34 GTT tail light covers - $50 located melb cheers!
  15. Hi everyone I own a 1998 r33 sedan 40th anniversary that is currently running a 20e engine and drivetrain. I've brought a rb25det that comes with a r33 loom ect, I want to install the motor onto the 20e auto box will this work/last this will be temporary untill I have enough money to buy a 25det manual setup, I will be upgrading the radiator, putting in a trans cooler & will install a front mount intercooler. Cheers looking forward to hear your feedback.
  16. My reverse lights don’t work. There was only one fuse blown in the car and it was a/t control fuse what ever that is but I replaced it Incase it had something to do with it and they still don’t work. i then checked the globes and they look fine, just a bit of rust in the plug the globe sits in. I then checked to see if power was getting to the connector in the boot and still nothing. So I believe it’s the reverse light switch, however I can’t find it. Is it on the side of the gearbox or is it built into the auto selector? Can anyone guide me in the right direction please. thanks
  17. Hey guys, My 33's exhaust is getting a bit old and I'm wanting to get a new system. I'm not sure whether to get one made or to buy one of the abundances of off the shelf systems online. There are a few systems for around the $1,100 mark on RHDJapan which seem okay, however I don't mind spending more on getting something made if that is the better option. Any opinions regarding whether custom is better, or some indication of what the best off the shelf system is? Thanks in advance
  18. 1993 skyline r33r impul 4 door 2.6 gtr motor single turbo 5 spd twin plate clutch Gtr brakes with flexible braided lines In tank internal pump to swirl pot to 2x external 340lph bosch fuel pumps. Link ECU Yolk 18x235 front and 18x265 rear rims. Tien adjustable coil overs with adjustable dampening control unit in dash. Also whiteline front and back stabiliser bars. Handles good for age. Engine had extensive work internally. Crack tested, blueprinted and balanced. All aftermarket exceeding 50k to build. All engine work done by all star garage Perth. Currently driving with stock lsd but have a tomei locker included, just in pieces chasing bearing and seal kit to rebuild. 3" stainless Jasma exhaust with screamer pipe too. the last photo shows the front bumper not the best and bonnet got a dent at the very front. All up probably 5 to 6 minor dents and a few stone chips but overall still a really nice car with no major work to restore to its former glory. Really nice to drive and a headturner too not to mention eats hsv gts's and fpv gt's for breakfast!!! Not to mention gtr's, gtst's too! Very hard to obey the speed limit and nothing sounds better than hitting boost hearing the screamer pipe do it's job!!! I want 20k firm, no dreamers, no tyre kickers and if you know what your looking at price self explanatory. I'm not desperate to sell and the longer I have the more I will do to it and probably decide to keep. Please text me to enquire and a good time to ring you as I work long hrs. Thank you. Email : danno7666@outlook.com Phone : 0477582361
  19. Would love to see everyone's GTR's So i'll start it off. hrere's mine "99 BNR34 in Bayside Blue
  20. Hi team, I have been following threads on this site for years and referring back to it whenever I'm in need of GTR advice. The R33 GTR has forever been my dream car and i recently purchased my very own around months ago at 24 years old. I inspected multiple R33's before finding my ideal one. Here is a basic description and some photos of my ride: 1995 Skyline R33 GTR V Spec in QM1 HKS GT2530 Twin Turbo Kit Complete HKS Exhaust with custom modification to Y pipe (straight through stainless steel from cat to rear muffler) Blitz FMIC Link G2 Ecu (yes i know it is old) BC Gold Coilovers Nismo Air Filter Oil Catch Can with Braided Lines These photos are prior to me purchasing my new wheels Cheers!!!
  21. have gone the manual conversion route, leaving a few auto-related items for sale. First is a valve-body upgrade for the RE4R01A transmission. This is all fully assembled so just needs to be bolted onto your transmission and good to go. The upgrade is based off a Transgo kit that has then been further tuned by KEAS; the shifts are wayyy improved from stock without being too clunky/jerky, just a nice quick shift that holds power with no flaring. It's still in the transmission to keep everything nice n clean for the moment but hey, here's a pic of the complete transmission, just cos.... $200 for the valve body, and can post anywhere in Aus. The transmission itself; I believe one of the planet gears is slightly fkt, but still runs and changes gears excellently-like - just it develops vibration in 3rd gear around 90kph, which goes away when changed into O/D. The trans would be fine for a rebuild or for parts. $50, or will give away with the valve body for anyone local picking up the aforementioned item. Furthermore; I have a B&M auto-transmission cooler (still on vehicle, to be removed shortly). This comes with mounting brackets and custom hard lines that will all bolt in place with no mods, on an R33 gtst in the driver's side behind-front-bumper-vent-area. Ditching the stock cooler that is mounted in front of the radiator massively decreased my engine coolant temps, in addition to the trans fluid being much more effectively cooled by the B&M cooler. The B&M cooler is also very robust, pretty sure you could whack it with a golf club and it would laugh it off (no I haven't tried it) so small stones etc from the road won't hurt it. Will be pulling it off this weekend and will post pics then. Looking for $150, once again can post aus-wide.
  22. Hi all, Since a while I have a real annoying problem with my 95 R33 gtst. It has a pretty much stock rb25det in it, stock ecu, steel turbo, fmic and a hks ssqv blowoff. My problem is that when I kick my clutch to stop for a stoplight or sth, my rpm drops down and doesn't catch it in the idle, it just drops further and dies. Weird thing is, the problem mostly starts when the engine is warm. When I just drive and kick in the clutch, no matter from what rpm it just stalls. When I have been boosting (somewhere in the trip) and I let the engine drop to idle rpm, in gear, and then kick the clutch it will (most of the times) still die. Or it will sometimes drop to 100-200rpm and then tries to get it back to idle but starts bouncing like a mofo. Sometimes when I haven't been boosting all the time (like, literally no boost at all) it will catch it to idle when I drop the rpm in gear and kick the clutch. (except when kicking clutch from higher rpms 2500+ rpm) I thought it was maybe a problem of the bov but I'm not that sure anymore.. It's also kinda hard to explain the problem. Anyone knows what it could be???
  23. ORC 409D Single Plate Metal Clutch Kit - suits BNR32 HNR32 HCR32 ECR33 Complete kit including cromoly lightweight flywheel, clutch and release bearing. Is just on 12 months old, bought new from RHDJapan and done less than 10,000ks and has HEAPS of life in it. Is still on car for the next week or 2 so can test it running if you're quick. This is the 409D, rated for higher torque than the 409.Only selling as I will need a stronger clutch with next round of mods, and have gone with a twinplate ORC as they are an awesome quality lightweight unit. Pickup on Brisbane northside or can post in Aus at your cost.Pics are of the clutch from when bought/installed last december, will take more pics inc showing plate thickness once off the car. Twinplate has just arrived today so will be installed within next 2 weeks.
  24. FOR SALE CUSTOM R34 GTR BODYKIT MADE TO SUIT R33 SKYLINE. (LOGAN AREA)$500.00 ono email - gempowa@gmail.com phone - 0412453390
  25. Wanted to buy, Nissan Skyline Series 2 R33 OEM steering wheel. Must be in good condition and have all parts, will accept one that doesn't have clock spring etc for less money. No worn/re-trimmed wheels please. Willing to pay for post, have cash waiting. The S14 wheel is same shape but inferior in quality, please don't offer me those. Cheers.
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