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Found 1,876 results

  1. Does anyone know of a fuel pump that I can "directly" replace the factory one with for my N/A r33 GTS. Yes I know there's upgrade kits for more pressure etc, I'm not looking to make power I just want to replace the old pump without messing around with wiring etc, just want to direct swap it for a new one whether it be oem or aftermarket that direct fits to original bracket/wires. Cheers
  2. Hello all, If anyone was following my previous build thread I had an R34 GTT [FR34K] that I wrote off. I decided it was probably my only chance to get into the GTR scene. After searching for a while I found a member on here selling a beautiful white R33 GTR V-spec with an N1 engine. My goals for this car are just to be a weekend cruiser, occasionally heading down to the drags to see what it can do. If I could run a 10 second pass on the H pattern gearbox I would be exstatic, and I think somewhere in the vicinity of 800awhp would be more than enough as a max power figure. Car already has -7 turbos, poncams and a power FC with supporting mods, making a respectable 420awhp. It has HKS coilovers, Project mu rotors and gold BBS rims, with a lovely Jun style carbon lip. Immediate thoughts of this car (coming from a 485whp GTT) are: it's really fast. The GT35R on my R34, although made nice power, was quite laggy in comparison to the -7s. They feel like they have no lag, and the car doesn't have any problems whatsoever putting the power to the ground. I find myself looking down at the speedo after planting my foot and being blown away about how fast I'm going. The gear ratios help play a part in that as well, although aggressive, are still fantastic when just cruising. The suspension is very stiff - too stiff for me (it's something I will be changing very soon) but it handles superbly. After landing in WA, I took the car to a licencing centre to get it inspected. The list consisted of some minor things like globes and removing of tint. Nothing major - the hardest thing was child restraints which I borrowed out of a wrecked r33. Yesterday I passed my final inspection and picked up my custom plates.
  3. Hey people, I've had my black 1997 R33 gtst now for 11 years, since it was imported from n. Its completely stock, in what I'd assume is really good condition apart from needing a good vacuum; and it's completely stock (apart from 34 GTR rims). Has a sunroof, 186,000 ks but runs like a dream Time to sell and get a more practical boat. Anyone know what they're worth these days? I bought it in 2010 for $14k. I'm going to cry when I sell it, honestly. But I can't garage it 😭 Appreciate any guesses etc.
  4. Need help with R33 roof rack fitment I'm looking for advice on roof rack fitment for the R33, and/or someone with an R33 who might have time to drop by a roof rack shop (ideally one I normally use in Artarmon, NSW) in exchange for a bit of moolah. Searches indicate Thule once produced a setup for the R33: fit kit 235 mounting 950 feet, a short roofline extension kit and square bars. Chatting with shops, it sounds more promising to instead work out what modern fit kit works with today's 754 feet. On a UK forum ben_harmer32 made use of fit kit 1228 for this purpose, but the positioning achieved by a subsequent poster with such parts looks sketchy.
  5. Yo... So, after picking up an RB25 block and crank cheap on here from AngryRB, a forged short block build project has been on the cards for the last few months as I already had a lot of parts left over from the last engine build. Will be using Ross Pistons, and I had been leaning towards Spool rods as they will no doubt handle the 600-700hp the engine is being built for. However, after posting a review of the maxpeedingrods turbo I used recently, which I found to be outstanding value for money, I was contacted by MaXpeedingRods asking me if I had any projects happening and if I was interested in using any of their other parts. They make a conrod for the RB25, and loads of other cars, but unfortunately I couldn't find any real info on them as far as the RB/skyline community goes, although a few reviews and a bit of info on other forums, and a more detailed review here https://bofiracing.co.uk/blog/maxpeedingrods-cheap-chinese-rods-our-verdict/ No real horror stories found, (only 2 issues on a VW forums which seemed to result from a rod bolt failure, rather than the rods themselves) with most of the negatives I found seeming to be the ol' " no way I'd use ebay parts" which to me is an attitude about 15 years out of date. After seeing their conrods and comparing the specs to Spool, Scat, Eagle rods, they seemed to be very comparable, (if not the same but rebranded), and MUCH cheaper. Then after discussing with them regarding the product and what my upcoming build will be needing, they have sent me a set which arrived within a few days from the AU warehouse - nice secure box with plenty of foam packing, each rod in a sealed bag and greasepaper-wrapped. The rod itself, when compared to the stock rod, there's no comparison. Nice even finish across it, laser-etched marking on the big ends showing the final measurements, the caps are dowelled giving a precise fitment on the rod. I was a little suss on the genuine-ity of the ARP fastener but have confirmed with ARP, yes they are an official ARP product, made under license. The block and crank are with the rebuilder at the moment (but have confirmed, the crank and bores have measured up fine, so thanks AngryRB ) and I will be dropping the rods into them next week for the engine balancing, so will post up their feedback on the rods shortly.
  6. Hey guys and girls I have been looking into fitting a T56 6 speed manual gearbox or TR606 to my R33 GTR I have carried out allot of research I have found out RWD conversions are possible and have been done but no one has done a AWD conversion that I have been able to find. I think this could be a viable and cost effective option for people who are looking for a quiet street able gearbox which is capable of handling high HP. Now the cost for a setup like this could range from $6000 to $8000 that is a estimate at this stage the first unit would more than likely be more expensive but with more interest these costs could fall The T56 Magnum would probably be the gearbox of choice as it is the strongest syco box they do Able to withstand a massive 700 lb-ft. of torque while providing unbelievably crisp shifts, no other manual transmission on the planet offers as much combined strength, versatility, and general ease-of-use as the T-56 Magnum. Known in its original equipment form as the 'TR-6060', the Magnum is an aftermarket version of the same transmission found in many of today's most celebrated factory super cars – including the ZR1 Corvette and ACR Viper – giving you refinement where you want it and strength where it counts. Other positives about these gearboxes are gear sets PPG have dog configurations and sequential setups for the more hardcore drivers. I personally wouldn’t see the point all you would do is fit a PPG setup to the factory 5 speed. The bell housing is also allot larger this may offer GTR owners more clutch options more surface area and the possibility to run a nicer street able clutch (sprung centre) The biggest positive is retaining the 4WD and for me that the game changer. This isn't set in stone as yet, I am looking for advice and wisdom there is a huge amount of knowledge on this forum and would love to hear your thoughts and comments thanks for your time Frosty
  7. I have a 1996 R33 rb25det I have searched everywhere and I see a lot of topics on this but nothing has really helped me First off I was having idle issues on start up. It was sitting around 500rpm so I changed my. Bov back to recirc starts good now. But still sitting around 700 which is fine.. But hadn't fixed properly. I'm still having problems coming to an intersection sounds like it's idle hunting. And it'll drop back down to 0 then bounce back up. I just have to keep the revs up to stop it from dieing. I've cleaned the iacv and adjustig the screw and that didn't do anything at all I've checked for vac leaks and nothing. My thought was maybe the maf but that's sweet. If anyone can help will be appreciated. Thanks:)
  8. Hello. I bought myt skyline 4yrs ago. First I drove it thru winter (surprisingly good winter ride). At the spring stock turbo waste got stuck. Car was 3 months in the carage. I put kinuqawa bolt on turbo and cheap low mount exhaust manigold. It was rest of the summer this way. Then I planned to do some little changes at the winter. But as many of you know things start to get bigger. I start building rollcage and strip whole car down. When car was tripped it would be stubid not to do some things like stich weldin and sandblasting the body etc. I also wanted to do some wisual mods and strip everything extra weight out from the body. Rollcage caused some changes also. Like stock heater system is not fitting anymore. Rear subfame and diff bushes changed to aluminium. Rear and front subframes and stock controll arms got some extra strenght also. Bash bars in front and back wore made from scratch. Now car is going back to gether slowly and I hope to get it done before 2030 🤣 Here is some picks of it. More you can see from my ig @nuut3ro
  9. I just found some pics of this custom gtr by veilside and thought I'd share them. It's apparently up for sale for 120k.
  10. Used Apexi PFC with hand controller to suit R33gtr or Stagea 260rs, $600. Pick up Sth East Melb or can arrange postage. Cheers
  11. Steve's R33 LM Limited Upkeep Hi all, I've been stalking these pages for a quite a long time now. Thought i should throw my car up for everyone to look at. Some of you will be familiar with this car already as I purchased it from Gav in Perth. Gav had this car built by Glavsport and it has been a no expense spared build. With that in mind I too have decided to buy things once and any changes that go onto the car will be the highest quality I can reasonably manage. You may be aware that my start with this car was somewhat turbulent as someone tried to steal it from me on the first day I drove it. (See link: Steve's Intro ). Since then I have hidden the car away under lock and key (and other security measures). The car has just returned to me now from Racepace in Bayswater. We (well, not really we, more the guys at Racepace) made some changes to my car, repaired the damage from the break in and installed a new immobiliser and tracker. It's nice to have the car back in one piece and using a key to start it, rather than any flat item jammed into what was left of the ignition. One of the biggest issues I was having was fumes coming into the cabin from under the bonnet/car. It turned out to be a twofold issue. 1. The exhaust was pinched and suffering from E85 damage (it was a 3" mild steel exhaust) 2. The oil catch can breather may have been letting fumes into the air vents for inside the car. The guys at Racepace have fabricated and installed a brand new 3.5" exhaust with V-Bands and tuned length headers to solve the exhaust problems and they also rerouted the catch can fumes into the rear turbo so they are expelled through the exhaust. With the new exhaust it was necessary to re-tune the car on the dyno so this was also completed. As someone who doesn't get to drive fast cars much, millions of kWs were deemed unnecessary. I asked the guys specifically if they could turn the engine down to a level it will be happy to perform at for a long, long time. In tuning the car the guys turned the engine up to what they deemed a reasonable level, then turned it back down as I requested. The net result of the tuning was: Full power: 505.4kW (atw) at 27psi Final Tune: 410kW (atw) at 22psi I've also got some pictures of the exhaust going in and a dyno run video coming soon.
  12. So I bought a 1996 Nissan Skyline R33 in October last year and thought you know I'm going to enjoy the car as it is and slowly upgrade/fix things. For those looking for a car with massive amounts of power, this is not the build for you. This is for those who are like me (i'm sure you exist) who are happy with their stock car, and spend time washing, polishing, fixing things and just enjoying the car for what it is. I am an engineering student and also work part time which funds my car therefore everything is small and restricted. Many of you thinking, why bother with a build thread. My reply is because I can and why not. I have been reading other peoples threads and it has inspired me to start my own. Also I lost most of my pictures since October and am working on recovering them. So without further ado, here goes. This is my first car. I saved up for 2 years working on weekends to buy this. After a year of searching and finding all sorts of shit cars which had been modified, i found this bone stock Series 2 R33 GTST. The only thing upgraded was the audio and the wheels. I have the standard wheels sitting too just in case I need em one day. with ~158,000 kms (more on this later). I absolutely love it. I'm obsessed with cleaning it and my first aim was to fix everything that was not working or not working 100%. So the last 8 months have been small upgrades and improving things in the car. This is a picture of the day it came home. Instantly I decided it was time for a wash and a drive and photoshoot.
  13. G'day ppl could I get pointers on a full rebuild of anRB@% GTST Series II engine for 500 to 1000 hp. I'm after horsepower and reliability together I dont want to be breaking somthing all the time lol. How much roughly could the rebuild cost aswell rough figures of what other ppl have spent and the ideas aswell would be helpfull. Im also south of brissy qld so any shop recommendations would be greatfull to.
  14. So I went to start my car and there’s a blue led on my steering coulomb and when it lights up I can’t start the car. Sometimes it happens sometime it doesn’t, when the light is on there is a fast past clicking noise coming from under the dash, I have had a look and it seems to come from a small black box?? Any ideas on how to fix this. thanks in advance
  15. looking for a pair of R33 gtr indicator surround been looking for ages but can only get the drivers side. im in brisbane QLD and am happy to pay postage
  16. Currently has a tune for 300 kw R33 Gtst - hypergear high flow turbo, nismo 740cc injectors, walbro 255, front mount intercooler and full 3" intercooler. So if you have similar mods you can run the ecu but a full tune for your car is recommended. I have bought another ecu to suit my needs, so want this gone asap (negotiable on $$ within reason). Features: Built in 4-bar MAP sensor to replace the factory airflow meter. VE tuning to simplify injector upgrades and simplify staging Easy to use software Plugs into factory wiring Compatible with many third party dashes and devices Full closed loop operation Flex fuel capable Launch control, antilag, flat shift and boost by gear all standard Semi sequential injection and wasted spark ignition Spare 0-5V analogue input On the GTR / R32, VVT output can be reassigned to a different function One additional spare aux output 3 spare digital inputs Spare temperature input Compatible with single and multi throttle body (for GTiR) tuning modes SPECIAL FEATURES This ECU also supports all the functions of the 440 ECU, however for advanced functions such as traction control, additional wiring and/or sensors will be necessary: Flex fuel function – fill it up with gas/petrol or any ethanol concentration Adaptive fuel control (self tuning) – reduces dyno time Traction control function Serial input for wideband O2 sensors (we recommend the MTXL) Serial output for communication with dashes and dataloggers (we recommend the Race Technology units) Headphone port for listening to the knock sensor while tuning Basic closed loop ignition control Closed loop fuel, idle, boost, 2 x variable valve timing control Easy to use software Dual maps (both maps required for GTiR for combined TPS / MAP tuning)
  17. Hey people! I've recently bought this 1996 series 2 R33 GTST sedan. When the guy was selling it, he advertised it as 'm-spec' A bit of study & I've realised there is no such thing. Rather 'M model' But the body kit I have on my car still doesn't match up when I search online for it. Any info on what particular model I have (If any) would be appreciated. I bought it for $9700, 111xxxkm, manual, complete stock, zero rust etc.. very well kept. Thanks for reading!
  18. My r33 S2 RB25DET has a rough idle after about 10 mins of driving when warmed up. It goes from like 200 RPM to 1000 RPM and some times stalls Ive tried to fix it by cleaning the AFM buying new coil packs and spark plugs. Car is stock apart from pod filter and front mount inter cooler also have a boost leak getting about 4psI could this be linked to the idle by any chance
  19. Hi All, Recently my A/C would only blow stinking hot air which was awfully uncomfortable to drive in but it's been too cold to have it off. It started off that it was sporadic but eventually got worse. After some soul searching I found out that the part is a the Air Mix/Blend actuator which controls how much fresh air vs heater air comes through the vents. Tools/Requirements: - Soldering Iron and Solder - Assorted Phillips head and flat head screw drivers - Vice to hold everything - Power supply to test the motor itself - Permanent marker to mark existing points - Sand paper Difficulty: - Low Time Required: - 1 Hour Optional: - Brand new OEM mix actuator - Used OEM working mix actuator 1) Start by testing the actuator using the diagnostics system - If you have error 26, the problem is most certainly the actuator http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426605-aircon-diagnostics-r33/ 2) Locate the actuator under the drivers side dash to the left 3) Remove cap holding the actuator rod in place, mark the rod for reference and pop the rod out of it's "seat" 4) Disconnect the wiring connector from the mix actuator 5) Remove the three securing screws shown below and take the actuator out of the car *over to the bench* 6) Mark some reference points on the arm for the actuator - This will make it easier to assemble again later 7) Unscrew the actuator off its mounting bracket 8) Remove the two screws that seal the housing 9) Using a flat head screwdriver gently pry the arm off the actuator 10) Separate the two clips that hold the housing together from the side and gently open the actuator case 11) Remove all of the little gears from the housing and set them aside somewhere they won't roll away 12) Remove the circuit board and motor from the housing to reveal the last large gear with contacts on it 13) Gently bend the contacts upwards to ensure they haven't been worn out and bent over time - Give the contacts a light sand at while you're at it 14) Clean the contact surface on the circuit board - I wasn't sure what sort of grease this was so I left a thin coat on the board anyway 15) Connect a power source to the motor terminals to ensure the motor still functions - If not see the options above or look at a replacement motor (from Jaycar or other electronics stores or eBay) 16) Take your soldering iron and melt the solder on the joints of the board - Take the time to add a bit more solder where necessary 17) If all went well work your way back from step 12 and test the actuator again
  20. I have a set of 18" Crimson Inc Club Linea alloys rims for sale. They are 18 x 8" 40 fronts, and 18 x 9" 38 rears. The PCD is 5 x 114.3, so can suit Toyota, Nissan, Ford, Mitsubishi and others.These fitted nicely on an R33 GTST, but will also fit many other cars. The rims are in good condition, and were repainted in a silvery bronze a few years ago. They include 4 centre caps. The front rims have R888r semi slicks fitted, but one is damaged. The rims are Japanese made, and good quality. Rims are in Adelaide, and local pickup is obviously preferred. Edit - forgot to add price - $600
  21. I am wanting to buy a 3inch 5 bolt dump pipe for my GT3076 turbo, preferably a split dump where the wastegate gasses meet the pipe further down. Alternatively If someone is able to fabricate one please let me know as well Car: R33 GTS-T Location: Melbourne SE
  22. Hey ladies and gents, have a few things for sale. VIC “96 GTRR” plates, never been on a car. - $500 ONO 34 GTR V-spec shafts - 1 has a damaged thread but shaft and cv’s are mint. - $300 ONO 34 GTT tail light covers - $50 located melb cheers!
  23. Hi everyone I own a 1998 r33 sedan 40th anniversary that is currently running a 20e engine and drivetrain. I've brought a rb25det that comes with a r33 loom ect, I want to install the motor onto the 20e auto box will this work/last this will be temporary untill I have enough money to buy a 25det manual setup, I will be upgrading the radiator, putting in a trans cooler & will install a front mount intercooler. Cheers looking forward to hear your feedback.
  24. My reverse lights don’t work. There was only one fuse blown in the car and it was a/t control fuse what ever that is but I replaced it Incase it had something to do with it and they still don’t work. i then checked the globes and they look fine, just a bit of rust in the plug the globe sits in. I then checked to see if power was getting to the connector in the boot and still nothing. So I believe it’s the reverse light switch, however I can’t find it. Is it on the side of the gearbox or is it built into the auto selector? Can anyone guide me in the right direction please. thanks
  25. Hey guys, My 33's exhaust is getting a bit old and I'm wanting to get a new system. I'm not sure whether to get one made or to buy one of the abundances of off the shelf systems online. There are a few systems for around the $1,100 mark on RHDJapan which seem okay, however I don't mind spending more on getting something made if that is the better option. Any opinions regarding whether custom is better, or some indication of what the best off the shelf system is? Thanks in advance
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