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  1. Hello. I bought myt skyline 4yrs ago. First I drove it thru winter (surprisingly good winter ride). At the spring stock turbo waste got stuck. Car was 3 months in the carage. I put kinuqawa bolt on turbo and cheap low mount exhaust manigold. It was rest of the summer this way. Then I planned to do some little changes at the winter. But as many of you know things start to get bigger. I start building rollcage and strip whole car down. When car was tripped it would be stubid not to do some things like stich weldin and sandblasting the body etc. I also wanted to do some wisual mods and strip everything extra weight out from the body. Rollcage caused some changes also. Like stock heater system is not fitting anymore. Rear subfame and diff bushes changed to aluminium. Rear and front subframes and stock controll arms got some extra strenght also. Bash bars in front and back wore made from scratch. Now car is going back to gether slowly and I hope to get it done before 2030 ? Here is some picks of it. More you can see from my ig @nuut3ro
  2. i have a question on an engine swap and i cant seem to find anything related to it so i thought id come here, so i wanna put a worked 304 fuel injected 5ltr v8 into my r33 series 2 gtst. all i want to know is will the old v8 fit into the engine bay without having to modify it heavily?
  3. Hello. Recently picked up an R33 GTST, S1.5, and I am very worried about the timing issues. The car ran rich when I got it, which was fixed by adjusting the TPS to correct voltage, but the idle seemed a little off still. I took it and got it retuned, as the last tune was very old and outdated. The car made 425 RWHP on a hub dyno, at 15 PSI. Tuned on Apexi Power FC and a GT3582. The car has very little knock on the hand controller, and seems to run fine. The tuner said however he had to advance the timing a massive amount, and believes the ECU is misreading timing, and it is an ECU fault. The timing degrees is at mid to high 20's under full boost, which seems very high. Again, low knock (under 30) on Power FC sensor. It was running similar timing to this for the last 7-8 year apparently, and had a very similar ignition map on the old tune. What's the go with this? How can I get the timing to a 'normal' level? Has the belt slipped? CAS failed? I am concerned the Power FC knock reading is inaccurate and I don't want this car to explode, as Covid tax meant this was not a cheap buy! Cheers all!
  4. Hi everyone, I hope everyone is having a good day as a skyline owner ( or enthusiast) I am having a very difficult time with my cluster at the moment. Here are a list of sections to my predicament: - None of the gauges work (except the turbo gauge I think) - The lights on the cluster will light up (handbrake light, check engine, battery etc. when I stall) but are not on regularly - I have sent the cluster to a specialist in the Eastern Melbourne suburbs. He took it all apart and said he could not see any issues with it - I have sent the car to the Auto Electricians in the Eastern Melbourne suburbs too, they had a look at the wiring and said they could not find anything wrong either - The car does not have a Speed Transducer in the car at the moment. I have bought one but have not yet fitted it. This leads to my questions. If I replace the speed transducer, will this fix the rest of the issues on the cluster? I was hoping that it maybe completed some form of a circuit for everything? Could it be the ECU? as far as I know I am still running the stock ECU
  5. Hey guys and girls I have been looking into fitting a T56 6 speed manual gearbox or TR606 to my R33 GTR I have carried out allot of research I have found out RWD conversions are possible and have been done but no one has done a AWD conversion that I have been able to find. I think this could be a viable and cost effective option for people who are looking for a quiet street able gearbox which is capable of handling high HP. Now the cost for a setup like this could range from $6000 to $8000 that is a estimate at this stage the first unit would more than likely be more expensive but with more interest these costs could fall The T56 Magnum would probably be the gearbox of choice as it is the strongest syco box they do Able to withstand a massive 700 lb-ft. of torque while providing unbelievably crisp shifts, no other manual transmission on the planet offers as much combined strength, versatility, and general ease-of-use as the T-56 Magnum. Known in its original equipment form as the 'TR-6060', the Magnum is an aftermarket version of the same transmission found in many of today's most celebrated factory super cars – including the ZR1 Corvette and ACR Viper – giving you refinement where you want it and strength where it counts. Other positives about these gearboxes are gear sets PPG have dog configurations and sequential setups for the more hardcore drivers. I personally wouldn’t see the point all you would do is fit a PPG setup to the factory 5 speed. The bell housing is also allot larger this may offer GTR owners more clutch options more surface area and the possibility to run a nicer street able clutch (sprung centre) The biggest positive is retaining the 4WD and for me that the game changer. This isn't set in stone as yet, I am looking for advice and wisdom there is a huge amount of knowledge on this forum and would love to hear your thoughts and comments thanks for your time Frosty
  6. Hi guys, I have a problem. First of all I do have a Twin plate clitch in my r33 gtr. When pressing the clutch pedal it make some rattling noise, after reading and gathering some info this is considered as normal with those type of clutches? The bigger problem is that my gearbox sometimes gets stuck in 1st gear when im stopping with the clutch fully pressed it still wants to go forward. Also its really hard to change gears sometimes. I ve done an gear box oil change and bleeded the clutch line (both damper and slave cylinder). Nothing helped. I would need some advice where too look at next. Could it be that my clutch pedal needs to be adjusted? (clutch feels heavy but normal and the point where it grabs is late) Please give me some advice :) BR
  7. I'm looking to modify my headlights I simply cant (or at least cant find anywhere on the internet or modification shops) modify my ichikoh 1535 headlights as they have a ribbed lenses and its not legal to do anything in NZ with headlights without doing the whole lot to suit said change. long story short i want to know if 1533 clear headlights fit in the place of 1535 headlights
  8. Hi, My stock fuel pump was making a hell of a noise so I got a Walbro GCA3386-2 (255LPH) The mounting is different from stock. With this the strainer attaches directly to the pump while the stock pump sits about half way down the mounting bracket with a pipe to the strainer at the bottom. So with this the pump has to be mounted at the bottom of the bracket. Not sure what is the cause but on boost the car is running very lean. AFR is showing 18:1 On normal driving its fine. The car has a Haltech fitted. Am I supposed to get it remapped after fitting the pump? Do i need to change the FPR from the stock one?
  9. Steve's R33 LM Limited Upkeep Hi all, I've been stalking these pages for a quite a long time now. Thought i should throw my car up for everyone to look at. Some of you will be familiar with this car already as I purchased it from Gav in Perth. Gav had this car built by Glavsport and it has been a no expense spared build. With that in mind I too have decided to buy things once and any changes that go onto the car will be the highest quality I can reasonably manage. You may be aware that my start with this car was somewhat turbulent as someone tried to steal it from me on the first day I drove it. (See link: Steve's Intro ). Since then I have hidden the car away under lock and key (and other security measures). The car has just returned to me now from Racepace in Bayswater. We (well, not really we, more the guys at Racepace) made some changes to my car, repaired the damage from the break in and installed a new immobiliser and tracker. It's nice to have the car back in one piece and using a key to start it, rather than any flat item jammed into what was left of the ignition. One of the biggest issues I was having was fumes coming into the cabin from under the bonnet/car. It turned out to be a twofold issue. 1. The exhaust was pinched and suffering from E85 damage (it was a 3" mild steel exhaust) 2. The oil catch can breather may have been letting fumes into the air vents for inside the car. The guys at Racepace have fabricated and installed a brand new 3.5" exhaust with V-Bands and tuned length headers to solve the exhaust problems and they also rerouted the catch can fumes into the rear turbo so they are expelled through the exhaust. With the new exhaust it was necessary to re-tune the car on the dyno so this was also completed. As someone who doesn't get to drive fast cars much, millions of kWs were deemed unnecessary. I asked the guys specifically if they could turn the engine down to a level it will be happy to perform at for a long, long time. In tuning the car the guys turned the engine up to what they deemed a reasonable level, then turned it back down as I requested. The net result of the tuning was: Full power: 505.4kW (atw) at 27psi Final Tune: 410kW (atw) at 22psi I've also got some pictures of the exhaust going in and a dyno run video coming soon.
  10. R33 GTR Front Diff Bearings Does anybody know the cross reference part number for the R32/R33 GTR front diff bearings? I've stripped it apart and brought the bearings to a bearing shop to no avail. Was suggested it has to be OEM. Otherwise, if any shop is willing to sell me the complete set of; Diff centre bearings x2 Input pinion bearings x2 Input pinion seal x1 Bearing retainer seal (driver side front shaft seal) x1 Shoot me a PM and price with delivery to Perth metro.
  11. I need help with what I should do with my diff it’s a Active LSD with a altessa pump system. It singles and I want to to double what can I do with this diff bleed it, weld it, get it shimmed, block off the altessa system? Idk what to do please help as I want to use my car for drifting / road use
  12. Hi newbie here. just wondering if ABYONE has an ADR approved hood/bonnet and the paper work to prove its adr approved. if anyone can help please ! For a R33 would be a bonus. But not to fussed
  13. Hi guys, I just came across a complete front subframe assembly for an r34, the title of the ad just says r34 so I’m presuming it’s a coupe. I have an R33 at home and was wondering if the r34 front subframe assembly will bolt straight into the r33. Im looking to do this with relatively little modification of its needed, also does anyone know if it will throw off the geometry of the car or if it’s okay to be doing this. Thank you very much if you’s can help guys .
  14. So guys i need some help with the rear subframe assembly for the r33 GTS-T. I just picked up an r33 shell and it comes with the R33 rear subframe, but im having trouble with knowing exactly what to purchase for the subframe, could any of you guys just give me a little checklist to write down so i know what to buy for it. Im relatively new to this stuff, so take it easy on me haha. Thanks
  15. Hi SAU, As the title states; looking to buy some Ikeya adjustable suspension parts for my R33 GT-R. Looking for the following: - Roll center adjustable lower arm - Adjustable rear lower arm - Traction adjuster rod Want them to be in good enough or better condition, something that still has life in them: i.e. bushes/joints still good, construction not damaged, surface rust is okay. Buying new is a little expensive with this brand, so I thought why not check the used market before importing new from Japan. Located in VIC. Happy to pay for shipping (whether you're interstate or in VIC due to Covid-19). Brand new, from Japan, would set me back anywhere between $2800 - $3000 (landed), maybe more. Please let me know if you have any or all aforementioned parts for sale. Contact me through here please. Cheers
  16. As per topic title, I'm after a charcoal canister, with hoses would be advantageous. Preferably from an S2 rb25det. Location: Victoria, but would be happy to pay someone post if need be. Cheers. ?
  17. 1993 skyline r33r impul 4 door 2.6 gtr motor single turbo 5 spd twin plate clutch Gtr brakes with flexible braided lines In tank internal pump to swirl pot to 2x external 340lph bosch fuel pumps. Link ECU Yolk 18x235 front and 18x265 rear rims. Tien adjustable coil overs with adjustable dampening control unit in dash. Also whiteline front and back stabiliser bars. Handles good for age. Engine had extensive work internally. Crack tested, blueprinted and balanced. All aftermarket exceeding 50k to build. All engine work done by all star garage Perth. Currently driving with stock lsd but have a tomei locker included, just in pieces chasing bearing and seal kit to rebuild. 3" stainless Jasma exhaust with screamer pipe too. the last photo shows the front bumper not the best and bonnet got a dent at the very front. All up probably 5 to 6 minor dents and a few stone chips but overall still a really nice car with no major work to restore to its former glory. Really nice to drive and a headturner too not to mention eats hsv gts's and fpv gt's for breakfast!!! Not to mention gtr's, gtst's too! Very hard to obey the speed limit and nothing sounds better than hitting boost hearing the screamer pipe do it's job!!! I want 20k firm, no dreamers, no tyre kickers and if you know what your looking at price self explanatory. I'm not desperate to sell and the longer I have the more I will do to it and probably decide to keep. Please text me to enquire and a good time to ring you as I work long hrs. Thank you. Email : [email protected] Phone : 0477582361
  18. Does anyone know of a fuel pump that I can "directly" replace the factory one with for my N/A r33 GTS. Yes I know there's upgrade kits for more pressure etc, I'm not looking to make power I just want to replace the old pump without messing around with wiring etc, just want to direct swap it for a new one whether it be oem or aftermarket that direct fits to original bracket/wires. Cheers
  19. Hello all, If anyone was following my previous build thread I had an R34 GTT [FR34K] that I wrote off. I decided it was probably my only chance to get into the GTR scene. After searching for a while I found a member on here selling a beautiful white R33 GTR V-spec with an N1 engine. My goals for this car are just to be a weekend cruiser, occasionally heading down to the drags to see what it can do. If I could run a 10 second pass on the H pattern gearbox I would be exstatic, and I think somewhere in the vicinity of 800awhp would be more than enough as a max power figure. Car already has -7 turbos, poncams and a power FC with supporting mods, making a respectable 420awhp. It has HKS coilovers, Project mu rotors and gold BBS rims, with a lovely Jun style carbon lip. Immediate thoughts of this car (coming from a 485whp GTT) are: it's really fast. The GT35R on my R34, although made nice power, was quite laggy in comparison to the -7s. They feel like they have no lag, and the car doesn't have any problems whatsoever putting the power to the ground. I find myself looking down at the speedo after planting my foot and being blown away about how fast I'm going. The gear ratios help play a part in that as well, although aggressive, are still fantastic when just cruising. The suspension is very stiff - too stiff for me (it's something I will be changing very soon) but it handles superbly. After landing in WA, I took the car to a licencing centre to get it inspected. The list consisted of some minor things like globes and removing of tint. Nothing major - the hardest thing was child restraints which I borrowed out of a wrecked r33. Yesterday I passed my final inspection and picked up my custom plates.
  20. Hey people, I've had my black 1997 R33 gtst now for 11 years, since it was imported from n. Its completely stock, in what I'd assume is really good condition apart from needing a good vacuum; and it's completely stock (apart from 34 GTR rims). Has a sunroof, 186,000 ks but runs like a dream Time to sell and get a more practical boat. Anyone know what they're worth these days? I bought it in 2010 for $14k. I'm going to cry when I sell it, honestly. But I can't garage it ? Appreciate any guesses etc.
  21. Need help with R33 roof rack fitment I'm looking for advice on roof rack fitment for the R33, and/or someone with an R33 who might have time to drop by a roof rack shop (ideally one I normally use in Artarmon, NSW) in exchange for a bit of moolah. Searches indicate Thule once produced a setup for the R33: fit kit 235 mounting 950 feet, a short roofline extension kit and square bars. Chatting with shops, it sounds more promising to instead work out what modern fit kit works with today's 754 feet. On a UK forum ben_harmer32 made use of fit kit 1228 for this purpose, but the positioning achieved by a subsequent poster with such parts looks sketchy.
  22. Yo... So, after picking up an RB25 block and crank cheap on here from AngryRB, a forged short block build project has been on the cards for the last few months as I already had a lot of parts left over from the last engine build. Will be using Ross Pistons, and I had been leaning towards Spool rods as they will no doubt handle the 600-700hp the engine is being built for. However, after posting a review of the maxpeedingrods turbo I used recently, which I found to be outstanding value for money, I was contacted by MaXpeedingRods asking me if I had any projects happening and if I was interested in using any of their other parts. They make a conrod for the RB25, and loads of other cars, but unfortunately I couldn't find any real info on them as far as the RB/skyline community goes, although a few reviews and a bit of info on other forums, and a more detailed review here https://bofiracing.co.uk/blog/maxpeedingrods-cheap-chinese-rods-our-verdict/ No real horror stories found, (only 2 issues on a VW forums which seemed to result from a rod bolt failure, rather than the rods themselves) with most of the negatives I found seeming to be the ol' " no way I'd use ebay parts" which to me is an attitude about 15 years out of date. After seeing their conrods and comparing the specs to Spool, Scat, Eagle rods, they seemed to be very comparable, (if not the same but rebranded), and MUCH cheaper. Then after discussing with them regarding the product and what my upcoming build will be needing, they have sent me a set which arrived within a few days from the AU warehouse - nice secure box with plenty of foam packing, each rod in a sealed bag and greasepaper-wrapped. The rod itself, when compared to the stock rod, there's no comparison. Nice even finish across it, laser-etched marking on the big ends showing the final measurements, the caps are dowelled giving a precise fitment on the rod. I was a little suss on the genuine-ity of the ARP fastener but have confirmed with ARP, yes they are an official ARP product, made under license. The block and crank are with the rebuilder at the moment (but have confirmed, the crank and bores have measured up fine, so thanks AngryRB ) and I will be dropping the rods into them next week for the engine balancing, so will post up their feedback on the rods shortly.
  23. I have a 1996 R33 rb25det I have searched everywhere and I see a lot of topics on this but nothing has really helped me First off I was having idle issues on start up. It was sitting around 500rpm so I changed my. Bov back to recirc starts good now. But still sitting around 700 which is fine.. But hadn't fixed properly. I'm still having problems coming to an intersection sounds like it's idle hunting. And it'll drop back down to 0 then bounce back up. I just have to keep the revs up to stop it from dieing. I've cleaned the iacv and adjustig the screw and that didn't do anything at all I've checked for vac leaks and nothing. My thought was maybe the maf but that's sweet. If anyone can help will be appreciated. Thanks:)
  24. I just found some pics of this custom gtr by veilside and thought I'd share them. It's apparently up for sale for 120k.
  25. Used Apexi PFC with hand controller to suit R33gtr or Stagea 260rs, $600. Pick up Sth East Melb or can arrange postage. Cheers
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