hardsteppa

You didn't. Or, if you did, renounce your title asap cyka. May just be residual?

I found the Mamba ' bolt on wastegate for rb25 stock turbo" a bit of a joke, didn't even come close to fitting nicely. Anything that looked like it might reach the flapper connector was pulling the piston off on a bad angle as RB25 Detonator said. And then when trying to bend the wastegate rod, it just snapped. I ended up making a new arm out of 6mm steel rod and then welding it to the remains of the Mamba rod...as they used some weird-ass thread size rather than a standard m6 x1. Now fits perfectly and no issues with the wastegate operation, just for me, wasn't " bolt-on " as advertised. Their spring pressures seem to be way off though; I found they were consistently 2-3 psi lower that what they rated them as....which wasn't a bad thing, just meant more testing/swapping time.

further info http://www.gtrpwr.com/archive/index.php/t-1663.html verdict unclear. But OEM stud may not be a bad thing.

Agreed its fkn expensive especially when you see the shipping cos to Aus on that listing. I haven't seen anyone else list that kit, tho i imagine is nothing special, just a question of finding the right part no for those sizes?

Have read a few instances of people reporting the Nissan OEM timing bearing stud, and bolt, having broken which would be catastrophic to the engine whilst running....and you know I don't use the word catastrophic lightly, it's too much trouble to type to be thrown around willy-nilly. Have seen this listing here for an unofficial ARP timing bearing stud and bolt set https://www.boostfactory.ca/products/arp-timing-tensioner-stud-and-nut-for-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30?variant=21433604505684 but haven't seen a listing for it anywhere else at all. It seems like a good idea to me to use a hi qual fastener like ARP for these bearings especially if running stiffer valve springs, tougher more rigid timing belt etc - what do y'all reckon, overkill or good idea?

My bride knockoff passed an engineers inspection without any issue.

No worries, pm yr number if u like and will text pics. Might be handy for spares anyway- no use to me, mine is short nose and auto ratio

Hi mate...have the diff housing, crown wheel in good nic but pinion has a chipped tooth. Yours free if u want it. Pickup in brisbane

Yeah but just think about it...the holes are oversize and have some movement allowance from factory. What happens when the manifold gets hot - thermal expansion movement. And you're putting in dowels to ensure the manifold no longer has any movement? I'm all for thinking outside the box - hell i made a large box with a seat on the outside of it, just so i could sit there and think - but it doesn't sound like a good idea.

Robi si srandu...? You have 12 studs to use as alignment pins?

red hose in pic 3 is meant to go over to turbo. Black thing in pic 2 is meant to have an air hose on it (running back into manifold I think?)

did I mention I have parts for sale?

update to this ...so, the tank has a thin maze-type channel across the neck at the top of the tank; the lid screws on to this and has an o-ring, that seals it...well, almost seals it. There is a tiny approx. 1mm breather hole at the end of the maze, leads to outside of the tank...and I have had a constant issue with p/s fluid leaking everywhere slowly but surely, every time I drive. So, have gone back to the OEM plastic tank now.

Yeah man, water injection taken to the extreeeeeeeeeme

No, the more free flowing you can make intake air, and the more available "on tap" the better.