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hardsteppa

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hardsteppa last won the day on October 4 2019

hardsteppa had the most liked content!

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About hardsteppa

  • Rank
    booyaka
  • Birthday 04/01/1939

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    da hood
  • Interests
    oiling doorknobs, endangering species, bumbaaclaart riddims.....petty shit.

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    beige Camry
  • Real Name
    Andy

Recent Profile Visitors

10,221 profile views
  1. Oh and you also might need to extend it at the rear, so it doesnt finish to early, under the bump. Come to think of it, if i had to do it again i'd just make a custom one.
  2. I have that same style, on r33 though. Yes you can make it fit, with a bit of work. You will also really want it to extend all the way forward, over rear subframe, till it meets pretty much level with the floorplan, if you expect to be effective that it is. And yes it does catch stones/debris, especially outer-side wheel duct.
  3. I would love to hear your reasoning behind this, as I'm not sure I follow what you're saying.
  4. Aim for 501 hp...will meet your goal and will be cheapest/easiest.
  5. GTS Boy on it...immobiliser issue possibly. Mine does it when key is in the ignition but immobiliser is on; hit the remote button to deactivate, and the relay clicking stops.
  6. picked everything up from the engine shop the other week. All good; the only thing they had to do for the rods was a slight hone of small ends to match the new piston pins. Asked their tech for his opinion on the rods, any concerns or issues and he gave them the ok, said will be more than fine for the planned power level. So pretty happy with that alright. Rods and RossIsBoss pistons ready to go>
  7. Replace the top bolt with a stud and nut...makes it much easier.
  8. Thst looks like a black nylon compressor wheel, and compressor housing doesn't appear machined out. And no damn fool in their right mind would rebuild a turbo and machine out the exhaust side, leaving that in there.
  9. Yeah they get stuck (as in wont pull out easy) rather than 'properly stuck' sometimes. Bit of wd40, tap lightly on the sides of sensor with a soft-blow hammer, has loosened it enough it the past for me. You need the sensor out to remove the housing anyway.
  10. Top one should be the one you want for gtst. Pretty sure bottom one is for gtr.
  11. ^^ forum is global...tap water not drinkable in many countries, thank fk for AUS life. Now...>> yes I too was poisoned, by the Russians in a restaurant during the Cold War period when I was a spy working for ASIO. I'd tell you more about it but you know, classified, covert ops, Call Of Duty Modern Warfare, that sort of thing.
  12. mine dropped down to around 12.5-12.8v (from memory, was years ago now, but something like that) at idle. The pulley was massively lighter than the stock steel one but, too low V for a daily driver.
  13. The quality/finish of them was good though btw, no issues at all in that regard, and no real cooling issues, although my car keeps very low even temps anyway, with bonnet venting.
  14. Have used an ebay-knockoff version, on an rb25. The powersteering pulley didn't fit, and the alternator pulley caused too much voltage loss. Water pump pulley fitted but needed washers behind otherwise it scrapes on the harmonic balancer, and needs a different sized belt with it obviously. Maybe a minor difference in responsiveness? Nothing huge.
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