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Predator1

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About Predator1

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    Rank: RB20DET

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    R33 GTST - FS

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  1. Interesting, have a look here. https://www.gpforums.co.nz/threads/463764-White-R33-forums-Need-some-measuring-done https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/172742-rb26-jun-plenum-stock-throttle-bodies.html Seems like perhaps a smaller clutch master may help. Now, the question is, which ones the smallest? So far , the 33 gtst perhaps???
  2. You mean Greddy? Did you install an R33 GT-R clutch master? How much space do you think you have now between the plenum and the m/c?
  3. The issue of belts being thrown out is most likely going to be the power steering bracket/assembly out of line, esp when going 26/30. I'm in the process of getting this done, and I was advised of this potential issue when i bought my ATI dampner. This isn't an issue with the ATI, but moreso with the brackets etc. I've seen power steering belt(or maybe the AC belt) thrown out on a dyno during an initial run in.
  4. Hi, For the guys that are running single turbos on their cars(whether R's or Non), how do you protect the wiring harness on the passengers side by the turbo? I have a 9180 which a 4 inch dump, which I will get ceramic coated(exhaust/housing/dump) going in soon. I will be sticking the gold reflective tape on my exhaust side plus on the firewall anyway, but the poor wiring will get burnt to a crisp in no time... Also, will boil the brake fluid with the ABS controller inches away(That's another problem). All I can see are 2 options: a) Re-route the loom under the fender(Can you already by extended looms? Wiringspecialties dont sell one) b) Heat shielding(Reflective tapes + metal surrounds and heat sleeves all around the harness. Thanks.
  5. My car should be done with the panel beaters this week, so will share some pics. I actually called a number of people to come and collect the gas, as 2 of them that came out, said they don't have the right machine, apparently its too hard due to the age of the car.. wtf. Anyway so that took me a while but all done. Removing the AC system was actually very easy once the gas was removed. I chose to go with the original matt black color. Will de-grease all the parts and fit new sleeves to all the looms where possible. I left the ABS and brake assembly on as kinda needed it haha. The workshop will do all of that for me, and I'll just have to somehow bleed the fker. Any progress on yours so far?
  6. THIS is excellent! EXACTLY what I was after. Thank you so much. #subscribed to your facebook
  7. Hey mate, is this the hose that goes into your plenum? If so I’m in the same boat looking for options.
  8. Hey thanks for the reply. not sure how the bin counter would work without some external circuit board which shouldn’t be hard.. although finding the right board and adding some logic will be a bit of a pain. I remember tho that last time I enquired Link re the speed sensor.. they said that it doesn’t work.. it hasn’t been for some time.. it apparently was meant to be included with their last release but it still isn’t working.
  9. Is that something that a Link could handle perhaps?
  10. Fair enough mate totally understand. How much of a bitch was it to refit abs and bleed it etc? Also, is it possible to remove the ac lines without taking the gas out? I’ve tried calling a few ac guys to come and take the gas out but they say I need to bring car.. wtf... I’m trying to not dump that shit in the atmo.. but I might have to cos I can’t find anyone competent enough.
  11. Nice. I’m in the same boat.. although I’m doing most of the prep work myself. How did you go abouts taking all the bits and crap out of the engine bay.. eg booster, harness etc. how did you label them and the bolts and nuts? I am literally duct taping all the nuts and bolts to everything they belong to. Personally, I think paint prep is really easy.. it’s taking all the shit out and putting it back in the correct orders my concern.. especially AC!!! Did you take any pics etc while you were taking the bits out?
  12. Sorry, yes, you’re right. Although my personal experience has proven that a cheap radiator caused issues when using the supplied cap.. issues such as higher temp.. didn’t let it overheat.. easily fixed by sticking stock cap which did fit. Had very similar issues with another friends car. also, the stock piping may not last with the increased pressure.. .9 bar over 1.3.. another reason to recommend the stock, or equivalent cap.
  13. Use the stock rad cap. The aftermarket caps are shit esp the ones that come with the radiators.
  14. Hi Ash, Did you prep the engine bay yourself?
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