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About Predator1

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    Rank: RB20DET

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  • Car(s)
    R33 GTST - FS

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  1. The general consensus is that aftermarket front diffs do have a tendency to twist the blocks more. As such, having a proper brace along with billet caps seems to keep that issue at bay. I personally prefer the billet brace from RIPS, however it is expensive - Although if you're pushing 11-1200hp then I would recommend that over the prp braces(Not that they're inferior, but mainly a personal choice as I'm running the RIPS kit). As for your original question, I'm not sure you want to try and find out how long that piece of string is do you?
  2. This. I still remember the nut in the corner of the rear turbo. Probably took me 1/2 day to figure out how to get it off. In the end i bought a small spanner(i think 12?) and grinded the corners. Also, not a big thing, but lining up the water/oil lines was a bit of a pita as well. If you have friends it would def help. Also look at replacing all the gaskets and washers at the same time. Personally, if i was doing that again, I'd rather pay someone!!! Its a fkn pita, esp in a tiny garage on axle stand only!
  3. Dam, do you have issues with fuel heating up? What ECU are you talking about here sorry? I didn't know the Link G4+ outputs PWM.. I have a few friends who had to buy external PWM controllers.
  4. Awesome thank you so much dudes. I will get my tuner to do just that. What PWM controllers do you guys use? Any recommendations? I initially looked at PWM's but it kinda drifted off the plan somehow.
  5. Hi, I have a built RB30 going in soon. I have a twin in-tank pump setup.. Although I haven't bought the pumps yet - I plan to run the 1 pump full-time, and stage the 2nd pump under a variable, eg boost/etc. My question is - Is there a way to monitor the fuel pressure in such a way that if eg either of the 2 pumps fail, it should cause the fuel pressure to drop, and as a result, take preventative measures eg eng check light + limit boost/kill eng etc. I will be running a Link G4+ and use an analogue port to drive the 2nd pump. I will also be running a fuel pressure/temp sensor. Thanks.
  6. I see, thanks for that, much appreciated for the informative replies. Do you know if the gearset has a torque limit/rating? I'd be keen to max out my 9180 on it. My build is nearing completion, so I'll have to stick with my stock 5 speed box till the money tree grows back up again.
  7. Thanks for that. I've bought a new OS Giken TS2DB(Twin plate) still in the box. Would would I need to ask OS Giken specifically?
  8. Do you know, for this: https://www.par-engineering.com/product/fs5r30ads-14set-nissan-fs5r30a-1st4th-dog-engagement-gearset/ Whether the input shaft has the same number of teeth? (Saves me buying another clutch)
  9. Does anyone know whether they(or anyone else) do a display unit of some sort to fit in the centre console where the voltage/boost gagues go(by the AC control unit)?
  10. Hows your subframe and rear diff bushes?
  11. Nice! Good to see this finally come. Its been a long time. I remember Nitto saying that they saw issues with the crank/spline gear not being in the centre or something along with clearance issues. Hopefully they have worked those issues out. Kinda sucks because I just bought a Tomei, and my whole bottom end is Nitto. Anyone know prices/release dates??
  12. I'm in the same boat, but for 32R.. I've also heard you need to remove the mesh to fit the 100mm core.
  13. Yep, you will find all the info here.
  14. Interesting, have a look here. https://www.gpforums.co.nz/threads/463764-White-R33-forums-Need-some-measuring-done https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/172742-rb26-jun-plenum-stock-throttle-bodies.html Seems like perhaps a smaller clutch master may help. Now, the question is, which ones the smallest? So far , the 33 gtst perhaps???
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