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admS15 last won the day on August 15 2016

admS15 had the most liked content!

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About admS15

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  • Car(s)
    S15, now R33 and M35

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  1. You've got to take torque figures from a dyno with a grain of salt (when they are unrealistically high 300rwkw and 1000nm, yeah nah). Hub dynos seem to be fairly accurate with torque readings though.The method i use to check an engines real torque output from a dyno graph is: Convert the figures to hp and foot pounds, power and torque will then be equal at exactly 5252 rpm. I then use the shape of the torque curve on the graph to determine where max torque is and then i can estimate up or down based on which way the curve goes, then convert back from ft-lbs to nm. For example, if an engine makes 350hp at 5252rpm, then it makes 350 ft-lbs at 5252 also. If peak torque was at 4900rpm, you estimate by how much higher the line is on the graph and you may come to a figure of say 370 ft-lbs. Convert that to nm and there is your real figure. Obviously you wont get an exact number but will be pretty damn close to the real figure. You also need the graph you're working from to be in rpm, for this reason it shits me when graphs are in road speed.
  2. Try doing the plugs and if it still does it, do a log and check how much boost you're getting. I had a similar issue and I was overboosting just enough to go into the overboost (rich as f**k) part of the fuel map but not enough to trigger boost cut. Felt like misfire but new plugs and coilpacks didn't fix it. Had to turn boost duty cycle down a touch. I was looking at the golebys kit and ls coils but just went with splitfires for simplicity and got them cheap. Interested in your install write up if you end up doing the conversion[emoji106]
  3. You want to be talked into an R33, ok here goes. Pros: The 33 has a better engine, gear box, brakes, chassis than a 32. Bigger guards that fit bigger tyres. They where the most produced skyline so they are cheaper and there is plenty of spare parts available from wrecks. Also have a better chance of finding a clean one. Cons: They are dog ugly and heavier than a 32. That's all I can think of. If you can find a 32 with an rb25 conversion with 33 box and the car is clean, then that is a winner. Would also have to consider engineering certs and mod plates for legality. Otherwise if you don't mind a little ugly, the 33 is the better overall car. Disclaimer: yes I own a 33 and love it. Kiwi, I also own a stagea[emoji12]. Op as long as the car is a turbo Nissan, you'll be right[emoji106].
  4. Could be possibly going into overboost if with your new actuator and settings, you are making a little more boost overall.
  5. Also contemplating ar1, would like details of said truck driver [emoji3]
  6. Should ask Tao to make you a hypergear version of an EFR.
  7. Pics of EFR not loading...
  8. So far, I've had federal rsr, Achilles 123s and the ad08r. The ad08r have lasted the best out of those. I'm happy with price and grip of rsr but the noise. NS2R is on my shortlist for sure, unless I find another ripper deal on Yokohamas. I'm even considering nankang ar1 as my next track tyre[emoji87]
  9. Interesting, Ive also been running ad08r. I find their grip on the street wet and dry acceptable and pretty phenomenal on the track (dry) for a street tyre. I've done 2.5 track days on them and around 7000km daily driving on track focused alignment and they still look to be around 75-80%. I did flip them after the track days and have since gone to A050 for track. I only managed to go 1.6 secs quicker on the A050. The difference was a lot more front end grip and a touch more rear. Greg, what year production where yours, are they the latest version? Overall I think the ad08r is an awesome all round tyre, but since I now have a second set of wheels now with dedicated track tyres, I'll probably just buy cheaper performance Street tyres next time around. Also interested in the NS2R's
  10. Also, although not viable for most. For someone chasing every single last hp available and no expense spared, this "could" be an option.
  11. Yes, I agree Bob but op did specifically ask about if it would be beneficial on a 25/30 build. I think Oem's would be unlikely to take this up as it's patented and they're not in the business of paying royalties. I am surprised they haven't come up with there own version though.
  12. I read it too and even if it does produce the gains, the cost makes it prohibitive to most (6-700us per cylinder + valves). You'd be better off investing in an EFR turbo for your 25/30, should provide plenty of bottom end poke without polyquad and you'd have change.
  13. Good to see this progressing to the final stages. I vote painting it black.
  14. That definitely works, I have stock sumitomos on my 33 gtst with 324mm gtr front rotors, 40 mm ducting, intima brake pads and penrite 10 tenths fluid. My lap times at Sandown which is heavy on brakes have been pretty good. Only issue is I kill the pads within 2-3 track days. Some V8 supercar spec alcons would be awesome to combat that but in my case they would be worth more than my car.
  15. Id like a copy too, just to compare to my own timing map. So my email address will be incoming too. Thanks Dose