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32_love

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About 32_love

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20DET
  • Birthday December 19

Profile Information

  • Location
    Brisbane
  • Interests
    Cars
    Computers

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    Nissan R32 Skyline GTS-T
  • Real Name
    Aaron

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  1. Just to finish off this post. As per usual, GTSBoy was correct. The stud was welded to the bracket. I was able to remove the bracket as per HardSteppa's comment. The fix ended up being Craig from Threadtech coming out to have a look (3 days before xmas) and fixing it with a hex headed die and a wrench in all of 10 minutes. Really feel like an idiot after all this, but glad to have the car back down on the ground and secure.
  2. Yep, that's my bad re: stud v bolt. Thanks for the clarification. If I have time tonight, I'll get this bracket out and see where I go from there.
  3. Hey guys, I've stuffed up again. While doing, what should have been, a simple front swaybar installation I managed to round the thread for one of the D-bracket bolts. (see pic) I'm now trying to re-thread the bugger but it's in a very difficult spot. I was just wondering if anyone can confirm for me that it's ok to remove this whole bracket that the castor rods mount to so that I will have enough room to spin the die with a hand tool? or am I going at this the complete wrong way? Any help/tips would be appreciated. Note: I'm 99% certain that this bolt is an M10 x 1.25 but if you happen to know better please let me know. Thanks, Aaron
  4. Good evening, I am hoping someone here who knows can direct me to the proper front and rear sway bar D bushes for an R32 with 24mm thick swaybars. SuperPro, Whiteline etc. I don't mind which brand as long as it will FIT. Or some brackets I can buy to replace my own that will suit these bushes. I recently ordered the Whiteline BNK013 kit (heavy duty, front (BNF28Z) and rear (BNR26XZ), 24mm thick swaybars) for my 32. In the package I received, the sway bars appear to be correct, but the D bushes I received for the front do not fit the brackets on my 32, the outside diameter is too large (See below). They have 5093-24 stamped on them and the bag they came in was labelled '3NF24 R33 Skyline'. For comparison, the below pic is the old bush in the bracket I haven't even got to the rears yet but the bag they came in are labelled '3NR26XZ Nissan Silvia'. I'm hoping that it's just interchangeable parts. Has anyone else come across this, or know part numbers/direct links to the right product? Thanks, Aaron
  5. Bump, I'm still after one of these 😊
  6. As far as I am aware in QLD the steering wheel must be within 20mm or 30mm +/- the original wheels diameter, must have padding on the spokes, must be 'ADR' compliant, cannot have a flat bottom and as you have mentioned, if it previously had a airbag, then the new one must also. Source: Have been pulled over for an illegal steering wheel about 10 years ago and this is what I was told at the time
  7. Thanks guys, and thanks for the diagram. I'll look into these relays you've mentioned while I replace the switch once I find one. Fortunately, I've gotten this far with my minimal knowledge but this might be a bit over my head but I'll give it a go.
  8. AFAIK 3 out of 4 holes match up when switching seats between S chassis and R chassis. Some people weld on an extra bit to make it work, but I'm not sure if that's legal.
  9. Thanks mate, seems they are out of stock on those at the moment. I did e-mail him though, so hopefully they'll get some more soon. Still chasing a switch if anyone on here has one.
  10. Hi guys, I'm after a headlight switch for an R32. I was able to fix mine when it stuffed up last time but now the cap has melted off one of the pins and I think it might be easier just to replace the unit. If you've got a spare switch (and you know it works) let me know what you're after for it. I'm located in Brisbane, QLD and happy to pay postage for the right item. Regards, Aaron
  11. I have a set 17x9 + 20 on my 32 gtst. They will fit, and they won't hit the coilovers, but you will NEED to remove the inner guards, roll the guard edges, run a bit of camber and I run 235/45 tyres which are a little less than ideal width. I've tried to set mine up with the least amount of camber necessary to keep the wheels a) inside the guards and b) avoid scrubbing, from memory fronts are around 2 - 2.5 on the front and around 1.5 on the rear. I'm currently looking to swap these wheels out for something in the 17x8 range though to make things a little more practical.
  12. Hi, Like the previous topic, I am looking for a reputable mechanic who is familiar with Skylines etc. on the South side of the river. I'm not stingy, I'm happy to pay good money for good work, I'm just not interested in yet another mechanic with the disinterested (urgh it's Japanese) look. In years past, it seems the consensus for the South Side was EFI Performance, but they're a bit too South for me. Thanks! (if it helps, my issues revolve around a leaky and noisy RB20 that has already had a head rebuilt)
  13. On one of my old s13's, I had a similar issue when i put my foot the whole way down. It turned out the MAF was failing. (that car was non-turbo though so i'm not sure if it applies here sorry)
  14. Use an angle grinder to grind the rear end of the ball joints flat. Then use a Pitman Arm Puller to push the joint out (pushing towards the front, from the rear). http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Toledo-Pitman-Arm-Puller-311279/SPO84277 I used a supercheap one like above, but I can't remember the exact width at the moment. I actually used the arm puller with a socket on the end to push the replacement bushes in as well, but can be done a number of ways. NOTE: Only reason I went this way was because I didn't have access to a bush press, nor the patience to remove the hub. Also a friend of mine did the grinding as I was hopeless at it. Hope this helps.
  15. http://www.gktech.com.au/ http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/index.php http://jessestreeter.com/ (if you want to order parts from Japan, everyone rates this guy)
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