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32_love

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About 32_love

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20DET
  • Birthday December 19

Profile Information

  • Location
    Brisbane
  • Interests
    Cars
    Computers

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    Nissan R32 Skyline GTS-T

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  1. As far as I am aware in QLD the steering wheel must be within 20mm or 30mm +/- the original wheels diameter, must have padding on the spokes, must be 'ADR' compliant, cannot have a flat bottom and as you have mentioned, if it previously had a airbag, then the new one must also. Source: Have been pulled over for an illegal steering wheel about 10 years ago and this is what I was told at the time
  2. Thanks guys, and thanks for the diagram. I'll look into these relays you've mentioned while I replace the switch once I find one. Fortunately, I've gotten this far with my minimal knowledge but this might be a bit over my head but I'll give it a go.
  3. AFAIK 3 out of 4 holes match up when switching seats between S chassis and R chassis. Some people weld on an extra bit to make it work, but I'm not sure if that's legal.
  4. Thanks mate, seems they are out of stock on those at the moment. I did e-mail him though, so hopefully they'll get some more soon. Still chasing a switch if anyone on here has one.
  5. Hi guys, I'm after a headlight switch for an R32. I was able to fix mine when it stuffed up last time but now the cap has melted off one of the pins and I think it might be easier just to replace the unit. If you've got a spare switch (and you know it works) let me know what you're after for it. I'm located in Brisbane, QLD and happy to pay postage for the right item. Regards, Aaron
  6. I have a set 17x9 + 20 on my 32 gtst. They will fit, and they won't hit the coilovers, but you will NEED to remove the inner guards, roll the guard edges, run a bit of camber and I run 235/45 tyres which are a little less than ideal width. I've tried to set mine up with the least amount of camber necessary to keep the wheels a) inside the guards and b) avoid scrubbing, from memory fronts are around 2 - 2.5 on the front and around 1.5 on the rear. I'm currently looking to swap these wheels out for something in the 17x8 range though to make things a little more practical.
  7. Hi, Like the previous topic, I am looking for a reputable mechanic who is familiar with Skylines etc. on the South side of the river. I'm not stingy, I'm happy to pay good money for good work, I'm just not interested in yet another mechanic with the disinterested (urgh it's Japanese) look. In years past, it seems the consensus for the South Side was EFI Performance, but they're a bit too South for me. Thanks! (if it helps, my issues revolve around a leaky and noisy RB20 that has already had a head rebuilt)
  8. On one of my old s13's, I had a similar issue when i put my foot the whole way down. It turned out the MAF was failing. (that car was non-turbo though so i'm not sure if it applies here sorry)
  9. Use an angle grinder to grind the rear end of the ball joints flat. Then use a Pitman Arm Puller to push the joint out (pushing towards the front, from the rear). http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Toledo-Pitman-Arm-Puller-311279/SPO84277 I used a supercheap one like above, but I can't remember the exact width at the moment. I actually used the arm puller with a socket on the end to push the replacement bushes in as well, but can be done a number of ways. NOTE: Only reason I went this way was because I didn't have access to a bush press, nor the patience to remove the hub. Also a friend of mine did the grinding as I was hopeless at it. Hope this helps.
  10. http://www.gktech.com.au/ http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/index.php http://jessestreeter.com/ (if you want to order parts from Japan, everyone rates this guy)
  11. R32 GTS-T Strut Braces I'm chasing front and rear strut braces to suit an R32 GTS-T. I can pick up if there is a seller around Brisbane, otherwise happy to pay postage. Thanks, Aaron
  12. This has happened to me in every import I've owned. When that rubber piece brakes, I just super glue a five cent piece over the ensuing hole. Otherwise that switch doesn't get depressed when you let the brake off.
  13. Thanks mate, much appreciated. I probably won't get to look at it until the weekend, but I'll definitely msg you if that's what I need.
  14. You're a legend. Thank you for all that info. I'll give all of that a go. Unfortunately it appears to be the low beams, but I'll still check it all out anyway.
  15. R32 GTS-T - Headlight Permanently On Last Friday, when I was leaving work, I discovered the remote wouldn't unlock my 32. The car is alarmed, so I didn't want to try opening it with the keys (in the end this didn't matter anyway) I assumed I had left my headlights on and decided to return the next morning with a mate to jump start it. When we returned the next day, we discovered the battery was completely dead. However, I hadn't left the headlights on so I was confused as to why the battery died. With keys in my pocket, we fitted the new battery and immediately my passenger side headlight turned on. (Normal headlight, not hi-beam or fog etc.) I was able to start the car, and flicking the headlight knob turned the drivers side headlight on. Flicking the knob in to the off position, the drivers side light turned off and the passenger side remained on. (This was not a problem previously, however I suspect it is the cause of the dead battery) For a few weeks prior to the battery dying, my passenger side indicator had been doing the 'double-speed' thing. To be honest, I had just ignored this. Now, that indicator works properly, but I still have the headlight problem. Has anyone encountered this before? Or knows where I should start looking? Thank you for reading, Aaron
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