iruvyouskyrine

If i was you as the head is getting a decent birthday i would set it back to zero, (obviously) check your base timing, and go and get a touch up tune done. Probably some more power to be picked up and you can sleep well knowing everything is all sweet. Touch up tune should only be somewhere between $200-400 i would imagine depending on tuner and if you want multi-fuel.

I absolutely love Penrite 10 Tenths and have used it successfuly for years abusing the shit out of my cars on the track with no oil cooler. ULX110 is used a fair bit in SA by silvia/SR20 boys, they seem to be the only people using it. I would pick the penrite every time.

Needs to be 1245mm which your stock one won't be, its for a CD009 conversion into my S13. Not looking to pay anywhere near that much as all i am going to do is cut the front yoke off to use. I was under the impression V35/V36 where standard metal tailshafts and 350/370Z were carbon? Is that not correct? Thanks

Hey all, trying to chase down a manual tailshaft from a V35/36, anyone have one or know of the best place to get one. Very little V35/36 getting wrecked compared to S/R/A/C chassis Located in Newcastle NSW but happy to travel to sydney to get it if need be, or if someone has one cheap could organise postage. Thanks

Can't wait to see the outcome of this

Absolutely not

Be sure to post back with pics and how you got on [emoji2]

don't bother, i would rather dirty intake valves than shit from the valves in my combustion chamber. If you like wasting money and love the feeling of the placebo effect then this is the product for you

if you don't get one you may as well be a flat cap stancefag

Also purchased the 3/8 stubby impact gun, its fking tiny and removes basically anything with ease. 250ft/lb (330nM) fits in almost every space and has an excellent auto-shut off mode where it stops driving once it detects the bolt getting firm. then just give it another squeeze and it will do the bolt up in small steps until its tight. Stops you from just sending a lil 10mm bolt into alloy and stripping it. Usually one big squeeze to send it most of the way, then 2 or 3 squeezes and its done up tight. Used it on the weekend at a 3 day drift event to change wheels. changed probably 16-18 wheels over 3 days using only a 2ah battery and still has 1/3 battery life left. also does the nuts up tight enough on setting 3 you don;t even need to go over them with a breaker bar. im in love.

Ended up getting the Milwaukee 3/8 elec ratchet same as fatz, his battery calcs were slightly off. 2ah does all day and a 6ah does a week its good shit, can't believe i went without for so long

Just cut the green brown yellow off like i did. Im 99% sure the red/white/black are the TPS wires.

Its f**ked. Compression should never be that low unless its done 1,000,000km. Rebuild time

Half the time it is assembly error by other 'workshops' half the time its failures of fittings and lines (fuel permeating through the hose and running underneath the sheathing, check valves not working etc etc). Speedflow fittings just work. Every time you assemble them they get put on the car and never have to come back off. The types of cars getting worked on are serious street cars and rally cars. Even in a street car package there would be 30-40 fittings for a full turbo kit and fuel system package with lift pump and 2x surge pumps. Even if we used (lets say aeroflow) and paid 3/4 the price of speedflow, if 2 fittings or a hose leaked (especially something in the turbo plumbing or under the intake manifold) then any price savings you had initially is now gone in purchasing new fittings and paying to have the old one removed and replaced. If you are on a budget, don't mind the possibility of having to do things twice and don't value your own time then using something else would be fine. But as a business you would never use anything else. And yes, even if you buy speedflow you can still assemble it wrong and have it not work.

Mr Speedtek is Aleksandar kantarovski, google that name also.