iruvyouskyrine

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iruvyouskyrine last won the day on March 13 2014

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About iruvyouskyrine

  • Rank
    I have no idea what i'm doing...
  • Birthday 01/22/1993

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    Male

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  • Car(s)
    25/30 Neo R32
  • Real Name
    Josh

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  1. On my phone so can't reply properly to dale/Lith. VFR do you have any more info on the setup? Dyno sheets etc. Also what is NRR?
  2. Manifold was originally going to be a complete copy of the gibson HR31 manifold with T3 TS. However due to the lack of Borgwarner having T3 i will probably be using Hypertune HypEX stainless cast T4 twinscroll collector and the manifold will be cutsom made low mount using all Hypertune HypEX bends. Basically a Hypertune manifold but no EWG provisions. Standard RB20 cams and will be running 98 octane and E85 (full flex fuel setup). Lith your comments basically back up my gut feeling, which makes me very happy. I think the 6758 will be the pick for me I presume the T4 TS .80 A/R housing is a good match for it as it's only 1 of 2 housings Borgwarner offer for the 6758. I know low down power is never going to be great no matter the situation but i think 6758 should be a good all round comprimise. Now to find the best place to buy one as cheap as possible haha. Any suggestions?
  3. First off, I will not be using a standard RB manifold. It's just not happening. In the old EFR thread there was this post And Jeff's response to that I agree with you Greg, i think realistically a 6258 is my best choice for exactly what i want. BUT my gut feeling is as you said, a 6758 would still be responsive enough but have more power capacity and stop the overspinning of the turbine wheel. The twinscroll manifold and housing should help with spool as well. Of course all these assumptions are just from my gut feelings and reading forums/results on the web. I don't really know enough about turbo flow rates etc to make calculated guesses or use BW Matchbot. Hopefully that's where people like @Lithium can help me out
  4. Okay time to chime in here. Thoughts on a 6758 .80 A/R T4 twinscroll on an RB20 with T4 twinscroll manifold? I was thinking 6758 but in the "old EFR thread" people kept banging on about the 7163 being the magic unicorn of the B1 frame size. I'm looking to make a responsive 220-230ish kw on 98 octane and then feed it E85 and make as much power as possible. I think a 6758 is the best choice unless someone can give me more of an idea about why the 7163 is supposed to be so good? Thanks
  5. Right so have done some more investigation and cost comparison into the EFR thing. It's starting to look really good besides the lack of BW using T3 flanges. So my question is keeping in mind this is an RB20, would a T4 flange be too large? It seems very unconventianal to use such a large flange on such a little engine but hey if it's going to work then i am happy to run it. If i was going to use an EFR i would most likely be going with a 6758 and a .80 A/R T4 winscroll IWG housing. I know @Kinkstaah has been saying 6758 all along so keen to hear his thoughts on it. With the EFR's is the 6758 the best choice for a punchy 220-230kw on 98 octane or should i be considering the 6258? Keeping in mind that that power is my lower goal, the more power it makes on E85 the better!
  6. Haha f**k how did you manage that? I understand on RB30 ones which have cooked old crusty oil in the keyway preventing the 10mm hex key getting in there.
  7. What hex bolt were you doing? Off the top of my head its only VCT cam gear and head bolts that are hex
  8. Switched with a known working ECU and still a no go. Did some more investiagatin (using R33 manuals which were a little more clear) and it had pretty much the same troubleshooting info. It did say to check the ignition system (pins 10 and 20) and the injector (pin 107,108 and 116) earth points. The injectors i figured i didn't need those pins earthed as the actual injector signal pins pull to earth to activate the injector. And the ignition system i wasn't going to earth through the ECU as i am using yaris coils and was going to delete the ignitor. Turns out that they all need to be earthed for the ECU to be fully working. As soon as i connected 10,20,107,108 and 116 it turned on fine and fuel sprayed everywhere in the engine bay as i have the fuel line disconnected and the pump started priming haha. So for future reference, don't just disregard the nissan manuals (even if they don't make complete sense sometimes)
  9. Cut hose and replace with new one because its most likely as old as the car iteslf and it is about $5 worth of hose
  10. Also one of the troubleshooting steps from the R32 service manual. As you can see pin 16 should have voltage with ignition off but should be earthed when ignition on.
  11. ECU pinout uploaded for reference
  12. RB20 ECU power info needed Hey all, Went to test my ECU was working for my RB20 into S15 swap today and was unable to get consult working. RX,TX,CLK all have continuity and are correctly pinned in the consult plug. Consult also has 12v and earth. A little probing revelaed that the ECCS relay is not triggering, i have 12v on both sides of the coil with the ignition off (which is correct as per the nissan r32 servcice manual). I believe the ECU is supposed to switch and earth on pin 16 (ECCS Relay) when it turns on. So lets check if the ECU is turning on. Pins 50 and 60 (ECU earth) both have a good earth. Pins 49 and 59 (ECU pwr supply) both have 12v with ignition on Pin 58 (Battery pwr supply) has 12v battery constant Pin 45 (Ignition switch) has 12v when ignition is switched on If all my power and earths are good then the ECU should be turning on? But yet i can't connect via consult and it's not triggering an earth on pin 16 (ECCS Relay) and triggering the relay itself. As my ECU has a NIStune and NIStune flex fuel board fitted so the little LED's have been removed, so unable to tell that way. Will be checking it all again tomorrow but just after any ideas on why it seems the ECU is not turning itself on. Thanks
  13. Leave the tailshaft in, or find an old tailshaft and cut the yoke off like i did
  14. Also, i had no idea that RB20/25 turbos were ball bearing. They really are staggeringly bad in that case, i just assumed they would have been journal bearings with heavy cast wheels. @Kinkstaah Yes performance wise the EFR would most likely shit it in, but they are just so expensive for something thats going on a $20 engine. Saying that though, i will get some more prices on everything but this looks like its starting to add up pretty quickly. What EFR would you reccomend to make a punchy 220kw on 98 octane that has a T3 flange?
  15. Okay so RE the T3 Twinscroll rear housing; Did a lot of googling and it seems that ATP Turbo are the ones who actually make this housing. I have sent them an email and are awaiting their response. I also emailed GCG and asked them if Garrett ever made such a housing and this is what they had to say. and a follow up email when i asked for more info The photo that was attatched was the exact same photos that are on the ATP Turbo website (link to it here) Next up are some pics that i found online (which besides the ATP website is the only pictures that i could find anywhere online). The are from a german eBay add where a dude is selling what is advertised as "Garrett Gt28 Exhaust casing T3 Twin Scroll Garrett GTX28 V-Band" (link to auction) I have sent the seller an email asking if he can provide me with more information about where he purchased it from. But it looks very similar to the ATP one and you can see it has been sleeved like the GCG rep suggested. @R_34 can you provide any more pics/details on the housing that was on the car from that dyno graph? Thanks