iruvyouskyrine

What trigger kit is that?

Sorry i meant to say the bottom not the front

Yes but only the front

Thanks for the excellent in depth response. I understand that you have to match the frequency response of the sensor to the tooth frequency/RPM of the crank to ensure everything is operating within its correct parameters, but my question is still what would you consider the minimum teeth on a crank trigger wheel to give effective triggering on an RB? What exactly is the crank trigger kit you are using?

I know in R32 it's the white wire with purple trace however i have never done it with an R33 so can't comment on it directly. However with a multimeter and some googling i think you should be able to figure it out pretty easily. Also the FPCM is just a two stage device, under condition X the fuel pump receives 10V and under Y it gets 12V. Better to run it at full voltage all the time.

I can't offer any help, but please keep this thread updated as this sounds very interesting.

The good news is you can put the FPCM straight in the bin. Use the ecu fuel pump trigger (usually a pull to ground) to trigger a relay (any 30A relay should be fine) and then run a new appropriately sized wire straight from the battery, through the relay and to the fuel pump. Won't have any more issues.

I'm not as smart as most of the people in here commenting but i do have a question, the 'sync position' on the Emtron is that just a measurement how far out of alignment the cam 24+1 'sync/home' signal is with the crank based 'ref/crank'. Is it comparing the 'sync/home' trigger event to the same 'ref/crank' trigger event every time? If so then even though the update speed is nowhere near the same as the crank based pickup it should still give a good indication of how much variation is being induced in the cam driven setup correct? Also what is the accepted 'minimum millisecond pickup time per tooth' for a high revving engine such as an RB? There seems to be such a large spread available especially in OEM form (Evo having 2 crank teeth and LS having 60-2) yet all engines seem to run fine. But in the skyline aftermarket world people will argue anything from 6 - 60 teeth on the crank are required. Looking through your maths @burn4005 it seems that 5deg/tooth @ 8000rpm = 0.000391ms is an absurdly small amount of time it could be considered overkill. I understand that if your hardware (ECU and crank pickup assy) is up to the task the more finite the triggering the better, but i guess my question is what is the minimum amount of teeth required to result in smooth engine operation and effective and reliable ignition timing (not needing individual cylinder knock control like RICE is talking about)

In S15's what johnny said is true, ABS ECU calculates VSS and sends it to the engine ECU. Also i believed that ABS simply doesn't work when going to a standalone ECU. I was planning to bin my ABS when i went to Link Extreme however if i can keep the ABS i will.

Very difficult to diagnose over the internet, but a new fuel pump can only be a benefit. Clear winner is Walbro 255 which can be had for around ~$130 just make sure you buy from a reputable source online (EFI Hardware etc) Also remove and clean AFM and check the wiring to the AFM isn't burn or missing a ground.

1 and 4 (outer wires) need swapping on plastic CAS

As I said before it currently has a 6758 on the RB20 and will be running that. But the manifold will bolt straight on to an RB25/26 head and still fit with an 8374/9180 for when I go 30 bottom end.

All share the same frame yes, it is actually a 9174 in that pic.

fyi R34 AC compressor is half the size of the R32 unit

Above is RB20 in S15. Compressor exit isnt an issue, inlet isn't either. Turbo isn't close to the AC lines but the 2x screamer pipes are. I have retained a full AC system (and ABS) easily. Yes it's tight but nothing is too tight.