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robbo_rb180

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robbo_rb180 last won the day on February 26 2019

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About robbo_rb180

  • Rank
    Lurker
  • Birthday 05/10/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Townsville
  • Interests
    cars and stuff

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    rb25 powered sil80 & 180sx
  • Real Name
    Robert

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6,948 profile views
  1. If its the 350z brembo calipers they are the same as the R32/33/34 GTR ones just the rear mounting tabs and bolts are different. A BM50/57 will be what you want, the 350z BMC outlets are different but same bore from a quick google search.
  2. What enigne loom has been used ? r34 rd25det or has the loom been repinned? A multi meter is use to trace wiring set to ohms Is it an G4 or G4+ ecu? wiring an boost solenoid or widebad is simple pending what sensor you have
  3. No exact way, each boost tee/car is diffrent. Need to drive the car and I generally use 4th gear up the highway. start at 2 clicks and go from there. Back when I started playing with turbo cars (2003/4ish) there were no tutorials and we didn't have the internet where i lived. Good old fashioned she be right and lots of broken stuff later...... Upping the boost on a stock car isn't really going to gain anything decent the scheme of things.
  4. The easiest way is to remove the pressure reference source off the wastegate. Free power mod ........... Ben is spot on and since I am bored here is a link to install one
  5. taarks/efi solutions or Kudos. Nissan can even sometimes be cheaper & quicker than online stores
  6. Jack up your car, remove rear wheel, unbolt the caliper and remove the brake rotor. Can easily see which one you need. The flange is where the handbrake assembly pivots bolts to the hub.
  7. If you have the brakes go for it. A quick google search brought up these adaptors https://www.supertecracing.com/r35-brake-conversion A big chunk of dollars to look cool Or sell off for profit, Buy new rotors & pads, brake lines & good fluid and never have another issue again.
  8. Here is all the points/information to pay attention too relating what info you need. You'll note I did give a very basic idea of what things to look for. 1st Have a sit down with your mate and look over his s14 with 1jz -take your car, a tape measure and note book. see how they did exhaust, fuel lines, wiring, cooling. 2nd Find someone with a falcon and do the above again 3rd Google every search combination of barra into skyline- don't bother asking forums for all the answers as no one has them. 4th use all of the above information to see what has to be done just it to fit the engine- If at this point you are still 100% and know what is required from YOUR research, crack on with the conversion. I've seen a r33 & s15 drift cars with this conversion done. Both cars had issues with keeping the engine cool, trans tunnels were hacked up, both ran standard nissan diffs & axels. Engine conversions are not simple and very time consuming and not all the info is on the internet.
  9. Well wait for your mate to come through with the info then if your not willing to take the time to actually go and physically do anything yourself. If you were serious about building an r32 with front end weight in mind you would be looking at aluminium blocked 4 cyl or 6 cyl motors ( honda seem to be flavour of the youtubes atm). There is a lot of good points & information being given but you are obviously not willing to consider it. Having been involved in a lot projects with engine swaps there is many variables are that cannot be seen until you have an engine in the car and start getting on with it. You are obviously wanting a cheap bolt in solution as you have seen people do it with other swaps that are very popular and been done for over 10 years with a lot of aftermarket support. Barra into r chassis is not one of them due to a lot of the issues mentioned above. From your earlier posts you want reliability but I've seen plenty of barra failures too even built motors from workshops who are "specialists". No one here has used you as a punching bag- if the advice here has hurt your feelings, return to your safe space & log off the interwebs. And one major thing to add... This thread is nothing like a warzone talking from boots on the ground experience.
  10. how about heading down to your local wreckers and asking them to weigh an engine for you........... Heres an idea- buy the rb factory mounts, an engine & drop it in. Its what about $700- 800 to do which is nothing in the scheme of things in regard to engine conversions. Will then tell you everything,if r32 were cheap (Sub $1000 where they should be) I would do it as I am bored of all this talk. BUY engine and get on with it!
  11. No amount of internet knowledge compares to hands on experience.
  12. I appreciate his attitude. The best way to get the information you need is to actually start the project or go to wreckers and start measuring & weighing parts like a lot of did a long time ago. The above link has enough info for me to plan this build. Weight difference between dressed motors is around 40kg from my few minutes of google search.......
  13. No just sick of people trying to get the answers they want to hear. If you have never done an engine conversion that requires a lot of fab work and need the internet to tell you how it's done, you shouldn't even do it. How about you find some local workshops that do this kind of thing often and pick their brains or go buy an engine and tools/equipment to do the job BTW I am the saltiest fu(k3r you will ever meet.... cross member to sump clearance, steering shaft to exhaust, heat at brake master, will factory clutch master work, gearbox to tunnel clearance, fuel lines on the right side, radiator size, the extra 100kg over front Axel, how to unlock ecm, engine wiring, speed input, factory guages work, exhaust on wrong side, mod Castor brackets or rad support........ 2 mins and I have got that with out looking at an engine in the car. That is why I suggest to go buy an engine and sit it in there if you're not willing to do that then this idea will never happen.......
  14. I use to use the motul 10-40 with no problems. Oil weight should reflect the local environment the car is driven in. 25-38C and 60-99% humidity where I lived when using it.
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