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CRSKmD

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CRSKmD last won the day on September 3

CRSKmD had the most liked content!

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    Female
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    Adelaide

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  • Car(s)
    R32, Toyota Sera,Turbo Starlet
  • Real Name
    Cameron

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  1. For a while I'd be living with a mysterious oil leak from vaguely behind the timing covers. After a drive there would be a small puddle under the car. If I ran the valley cover oil would collect under in the coilpacks especially around #1 and #2. If I ran no valley cover there would be a fine mist over most of the engine bay. Everything pointed to bad front main or cam seals as it was impossible to initially see the source as the timing belt would pull everything around. I tried several times in a day replacing the seals thinking that the issue was one of the front main or cam seals. I went as far as using genuine nissan goo around the corners of the cam seals etc. But still the issue remained. This was how it was for longer than I care to admit but with a large sump capacity and limited use it wasn't a big issue. Finally I found the issue, The VCT gear thing itself was leaking and after speaking to a few people who are highly knowledgeable in RBs the consensus was "huh thats a new one." Anyway incase this is your issue too i post the following run through: remove the upper timing cover and replace the CAS using the small spacers from in the upper timing cover. Oil behind the VCT timing gear on the timing backing plate. But not behind the backing black on the head around the seals. Oil inside the VCT gear VCT oil gear pressed in seal. Apparently there is an o-ring behind the seal. it was able to rotate independent of the rest of it a test i did to point me in this direction was holding some paper against the backing plate and shining a bright light on the paper to watch the oil spray pattern More info in the video showing the tests and the rotating of a bad vs good gear. Also voice reveal lol right after I confirmed the issue was fixed i dropped one of the little CAS spacers down into guts of it. Thankfully I had an inspection camera and a magnet so did not need to remove the timing belt for what would have been the 20th time!
  2. Oh good point completely forgot about that issue. I used to run around 8.5° On an old setup maybe 6 years ago with poly bushes and sure enough they died. Replaced them with spherical upper arms which eventually flogged out and then I went back to a poly arm around the same time I had the cracked alloy caster arm. Personally trying to avoid GK tech arms
  3. Even with the caster as set the tyre grabbed the bumper. The bar was moved forwards as much as practical without cutting it up. the fitment and panel gap is far from ideal but at least im less likely to drive over it. A small diameter front tyre could do the trick but C H O N K. The added caster was truly a night and day difference on turn in, but sadly the caster along with the alignment has introduced very severe steering bind at full lock. a quick fix was to try and wind some lock out. Further investigation revealed that my Adjustable lock stops we made up in 2016 are effectively useless now as the knuckle stop actually sits below the lock stop due to me raising the car several inches since. wear marks suggest that at lock throughout the suspension travel the knuckle stop is actually moving up and getting stuck under the lock stop which is adding to the bind. Track side fix was to literally scour the dirt car park for a big washer and some nuts to enlarge the lock stop target. Which worked, for exactly one lap before bending it. The rest of the day was spent trying to drive around it with less angle or using power to lift the front a little and make it easier to unbind. Yes that is a wheel nut welded to the LCA with a collection of bolts and washers to clamp the washer... Enjoy some pictures from the latest day.
  4. A shortcoming of my car was the turn in characteristics, having significant understeer on turn in and speaking to a few people I trust including Stewy we can to the conclusion that a lack of caster wasn't doing me any favours. The old arms were likely more suited to an S14/R33 not R32/S13 as at the max adjustment they only produced ~6.5' of caster. A pair of Acostal HC caster arms were purchased. way overkill clearance wise for me. Especially as i have no plans to remove the front swaybar. But the quality bearings along with steel construction made them the best choice. Long time readers may recall a crash caused by a snapping alloy arm... The adjustment allowed for more caster than my bumper allowed Took it in an got a fresh alignment with the caster dialed back to a reasonable level. I aimed at something suitable for drift but while still being streetable. I ended up with the below alignment. Front: Camber: -3° each side Caster: 7.8° each side Toe: 2mm out each side. 4mm total out Rear: Camber: -1.75° each side Toe: 0.8mm in each side. 1.6mm total in I am also trying out a set of the Kenda KR20A soft tyres in 255/40R17 all round for the street wheels courtesy of Sleeka Spares.
  5. went out for a drive to test it out. Proper alignment to be done but felt tighter.
  6. After a go over the car we noticed the tail shaft centre bearing was beyond flogged. a new replacement was sourced. For people searching in the future part number NP-30-6250 was a direct replacement for R32 RWD centre bearing from, hardy spicer. I was looking to go genuine but this was available in a matter of days not months. Jackup the car nice and high at the back leaving front on the ground in order to keep the gearbox oil inside and not in my armpit (ask me how i know). Placed on stands before getting under the car old bearing off (27mm socket, 14mm spanner, 17mm socket) mark the alignment of the shaft first so it goes back together balanced new one on Also put some new Rack Ends in Part number RE-4760 $28.10 each
  7. haha while there are some crap places out there. There are also some real gem shops that have been around for years
  8. Yeah for sure. A lot of speed and aggression was required to get it sliding and keep it there. Of course I could have changed the setup to suit drift but that is not the main focus of the car so for now I prefer to give it a solid go as is.
  9. Of all the places I could have done the damage I was lucky. Further forwards and I'd have done some suspension and wheel damage, further back the the boot/beaver, tail light and rear bar. Took it to All Type Crash who did a stellar job pulling out the mess I made. First they drilled a few small holes to pull out the bulk of it. They then chased out as much as they could in metal Coat of primer Painted up with a decent match in colour. I just need to cut some new stickers and we're back in business
  10. The next day I had a grip session at The Bend Motorsport park for JDM speed. Thankfully even with the big wack to the 1/4 my track wheels still fit without rubbing Maxed out 5th gear down the main straight with plenty of space before the braking zone. Different, longer gearing might be in the near future. notice the grill flexing up and the lip pulling down 😅
  11. not super related but got myself a new workshop jack
  12. after learning from the first day i changed absolutely nothing and came back for the next school skid pan day. I should note the tyres i'm using for this and the last day are the same ones i bought in 2013 and were sitting in the shed since I was last drifting. It took a few laps with some great pointers by the instructors before it clicked and suddenly i found a decent groove and managed to even link a few laps. great clip my mate got of me sliding back into line some on board footage including me sending a water barrier to the moon... Aftermath of the water barrier.
  13. so for the first time in ~7 years I headed back out for a drift day. The last time I did any actual drifting I had an RB20DE+T making around 185kw. safe to say a 7 years of slowly setting the car (and my brain) up for circuit not to mention coming back with much more power than last time made it for an interesting experience. I still had tyres from 2013 when i last did drifting stored in the shed so slapped them on and headed up Starting out on the Wet skid pan I, along with the instructors who jumped in, found it challenging to even do a consistent donut around the cone. Eventually we decided this was due to a combination of the snappy power band an too much front end grip which lead to the car pivoting around the front axle rather than closer to the driver. Changing to the shittiest front tyres I had access to and moving off the wet pan was like night and day. Just look at that smile. After this day I signed straight back up for the next one where things happened...
  14. Last update for today New look for All Japan Day 2021 side note: can i change the name of the tread considering its no longer +T or my daily?
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