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Kinkstaah last won the day on January 30

Kinkstaah had the most liked content!

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About Kinkstaah

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    Rank: RB25DET
  • Birthday 01/22/1981

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  1. Am... am I a russian bot? Shit. I am all for LGBTI. Maybe I am massively intolerant elsewhere... last time around I was in the upper top right corner. At this point I'm surprised I can pass captcha checks on websites.
  2. tbf I kind of understand the second half, if the shocks are fked you kind of cant know until you make sure they operate as expected (i.e the adjustable dampening won't adjust)
  3. I was reading the sad gearbox post and I was about to say "This is why people are using CD009 <--- 350/370z gearboxes" which beat the RB box hands down.. and you get another gear! Sadly the R33 gearbox prices you were quoted is the norm nowadays.
  4. It is worth mentioning that when people talk about OMG SO GOOD SO MUCH DIFFERENT it's rarely and apples to apples comparison. Either setup will do fine, and these are minor handling differences which can be preferential at best when comparing known 'good' options. I drove my car back to back with the same model car with BC BR's in it, and honestly other than some feel, I can see that it realistically would have performed the same or very very similar. it's not like we are all going to crack it cause we saved $1000 and did a 1:31.1 at the track instead of 1:31.0. Were the BC BR's harsher, did they have a little more roll? Sure. Was this due to other things like bushes in being in better or worse condition in either car? Possibly. Were they a hell of a lot less expensive? Absolutely. I say the differences in all forms of aftermarket suspension are subtle. You will like the MCA's.
  5. I did not, though have heard great things about CTSV kits in general and had thought about converting to them one day, as the pad size in these things is massive, way, way, way, way bigger than the D2/Ksport/Attakd 356mm kit I currently have. Alpha Omega did a kit for the S15 but don't do it anymore..
  6. I also have a similar kit and have had them for years - Though I went for a more uprated version with harder springs and received 5/4KG springs initially and later bought 8/6 springs and used those later. The car rode and drove really well relative to any other 34 I ever had a chance to drive in and Shockworks at the time's test car was also a R34 and they admitted defeat along the lines of not selling me their kit due to me unlikely to get any benefit at all from their product over what I have. Bilstein Australia (based in Sydney at Heasmans) will also rebuild/revalve the shock to suit if you like which is something I am going to do because one of them is weeping after a few years, and I have somewhat drastically changed the car to the point where revalving may be sensible... (i.e there is no RB in it anymore). plus the fact mine were originally done by SK to suit 5/4 springs to begin with. Bilstein AU were nice enough to communicate and ask me to get the car weighted so they can advise whether they even should valve to suit, and I tend to like companies that try to save you money when you ask them for a service. Other brands when approached with the same question were far less forthcoming.... i.e "Just buy our most expensive thing you'll be fine" etc. I have not tried MCA's myself, and was looking into them but after chatting to bilstein its far more cost effective to get them serviced and revalved then selling and changing brands considering I and everyone that ever drove the car really liked how the Bilstein/Eibach combo worked in real world and on the track. For reference the Eibach springs I got/have are: ERS Y/X ERS-H-200-60-0050 ERS Y/X ERS-H-200-60-0040 Replaced with: ERS Y/X ERS-H-200-60-0080 ERS Y/X ERS-H-200-60-0060 If you really want you can buy the 5/4 combo I have as they're sitting around unlikely to ever be used again, if you wanted something 'better' than King springs, Eibachs are also an option.
  7. The rinseless wash stuff feels like magic when you use it though. Now I don't know about the chemicals but the claim is that it breaks the bonds down between the paint and the dirt itself. It "feels" like it dissolves it instead of wiping it off. So quite often you will spray something stubborn and it wipes right off, which is... skeptical. Things do exist for bug stuff though - Pretty much the hardest things that exist to clean off a car really is good ol dried up splatters after going for a drive in the country. That said, the rinseless wash stuff is often regarded to as "the wash between washes" so to speak. The bonus is if you do it once a week it literally takes ~5 minutes. Hasn't really been in use long enough yet for someone to say "I did this once a week for 10 years and this is what happened to my paint" yet.
  8. Buy my Nismo one. It's turbo back though.
  9. I would also say "600hp on stock internals I just want to get it running while I am saving up for XYZ" is a disaster waiting to happen. People absolutely have made 350-400kw on stock internals, for 'years' but lets be real here, you'd only want to be doing that if you already have a budget and ideally a second motor/rebuilt motor purchased, and ready to swap in the day it all goes bang. The old adage re: GTR's and "Buy a GTR, have budget for rebuild to happen" does also apply to the RB25's of all variants too.
  10. There's also the waterless wash and wax stuff. Depending on how much you trust the science behind it it may be an option. Seeing people use it on Ferraris and Porsches for years has made me believe it works fine for my 34.. /prepares to be brutally murdered
  11. This thread is a perfect example of "If you want information, go online and post the wrong answer" The rest of the answers from everyone except OP are pretty goldmine-esque.
  12. In my case, either. It's almost* always worth going the larger housing. I would definitely go the larger housing especially moreso if you're going to have to get the welder out to make the smaller housing work.
  13. I have an Auto 34 GTT ECU, which I can confirm works with a manual, as my car was manual. It still is manual, but it also was manual. NFI if the loom/plug pins are the same/work. If they do, this will work.
  14. Unfortunately in my case I'm doing it in the exact reverse way- I will be trying to get the OEM dash to work with an entirely different engine, and it's ECU...
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