Jump to content
SAU Community

Kinkstaah

Members
  • Posts

    2,587
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    23
  • Feedback

    100%

Kinkstaah last won the day on October 24

Kinkstaah had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About Kinkstaah

  • Birthday 01/22/1981

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne
  • Interests
    Filling out web profiles.

Profile Fields

  • Car(s)
    FFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUU
  • Real Name
    Greg
  • Build Thread

Recent Profile Visitors

11,639 profile views

Kinkstaah's Achievements

Grand Master

Grand Master (14/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

791

Reputation

  1. So I'll be that guy - what was the offer? Given what you're replacing it with it gives a rough indication of course, but I'm sure many enquiring minds want to know what offers exist about now.
  2. It'd need a lot of work. They just... aren't performance engines, not really. I didn't mean a S54, I meant the M52 variants out there generally put out better results. I'm sure you're painfully aware of E36's with 2.8/3L Hybrid motors making a solid 160-170kw (230whp) in a chassis that is ~1100kg/2400lb in track day specialty trim. But if you've got the creativity/means/desire to swap an engine I would rebuild the RB20DET to be completely honest, it's a much better option than RB25DE, hands down, absolutely no contest in any scenario. If Engine swaps come into it, the RB25DE of any variant is realistically like the 12th best option. A VQ as mentioned earlier would be great! But you know what is generally better than that, and fits much better? Lord knows how effective they are on fuel given you said earlier that you're doing 2h races on one tank. This effectively limits power a lot. I wouldn't have thought a RB20DET would even come close to that kind of thriftiness on the track.
  3. I'm that guy. My tip would be not to use that engine, the main reason being you'd be happy to get 170whp out of it. Is that really enough for what you want to do? The BMW 3L motors or the 2.5 or the 2.8 would likely perform better and be more available. That said, there's a lot better motors than that in abundance over there in the USA. _especially_ if you don't need to make it road legal ever. Signed, A LS owner.
  4. My gut feeling was "about 15 psi" before I opened the thread. You gotta keep in mind you're not talking between 1000hp monster or a 400hp lazy engine, a better term is a 1000hp melted engine, or a 400hp reliable motor. Turning up boost is burning the candle faster, always. There is no 'safe' amount because what you're really asking is personal, how bright do you want the candle to be, vs how long it will last. Only you really know that. This is a really big/serious setup but tbh I'm not sure it really matters much with regards to how many kms of aggression the motor will actually last.
  5. I also have them! Though mine have since been re-valved to suit the molestations I've done on the car since. Driven a few other R34's, can't say any rode or handled better.
  6. My cursory information when googling seemed that a lot of places make their swaybars in NSW, and could easily engage someone like Signature Swaybars to actually make them. No matter who it is, I got a very competitive quote ($350) through Hakon to make me one with 50mm clearance at the front, lead time 4-6 weeks, from this mysterious NSW business. They have a custom swaybar builder form, but you can't get to it from their website - Only through google. And I can sell my Whiteline on. Again. If it all fits up, I reckon thats about as good a deal as I'm possibly ever going to get, so I signed on the dotted line!
  7. They're on the list! I contacted someone local who offered this service, and their builder had a "Can you supply a template" to which I said yeah, I can give you the bar and mark it out for you, or bring the car! But they get theirs done by someone in NSW, and unsure as to whether they are operating. May have to call a few people, and unfortunately tyre kick all of them, except the people that convince me the best that they can do it.
  8. New brackets were made. They even looked better! 6mm! Wow! Mount them up, all is actually fitting, looking good Then we put the car on the actual ground before taking it out for a test, and realised that no-one, not me, not my friend doing the engine conversion task, not the two VASS Engineers that have looked at it, nor any other mechanic looked at the swaybar with the car actually on the ground. Because it fouls. Just sitting there it's pressedfirmly up against the sump. No amount of spacing was ever going to save this. I wish I hadve looked at it on the ground before MANY hours were spent trying to make it work. Or looked at the OEM swaybar which would be in the same scenario. I have googled some custom swaybar people, and removed the swaybar from the car. Anyone know anyone that will get back to me in a semi-prompt fashion? As previously mentioned, car actually drives around quite nicely with no front sway at all, though I'm sure it's far from optimal.
  9. What fenders are you running? Stock GTT? GTR..? Some widened out Widebody fender up front?
  10. If the CD009 had a 7th gear it'd be perfect. Still perfect for track use, kinda if you want to max out top gear on the track. That said with that kind of power to do that you're effectively got no use for 1st. What you want is the shorter middle gears with an acceptably long first. BRB I am going to hug my T56 Magnum some more.
  11. The pressure should drop. Maybe not instantly, but it should. It doesn't just hold the pressure indefinitely when the engine is off and the fuel is not pumping. If it did, there would be no need to prime the fuel system... ever. If the pressure is dropping or being too high (or really, fluctuating) while the engine is running then there's an issue with the FPR. If you have two sets of stock injectors, and two stock FPR's and two fuel rails, I wouldn't be chasing the fuel side of the engine bay at this point for your problem. Personally I'd be re-checking that MAF (is it the same auto/manual/is it clean? did you actively clean it with MAF cleaner?) Alternatively, anything else custom in that circuit? You have spark, but do you know you have spark at the right time?. You've set timing to 15deg, but have you checked it with a timing light? Could it be out? Whats your CAS doing?
  12. Also worth noting - The videos don't seem to work (at least when I clicked on them) Troubleshooting methodology is better than most Mr GTSBoy 😛 Generally though - Why swap a rail? How could a rail fail other than it leaking? And if it leaks with 50PSI you will absolutely note it is time to replace the rail. Fuel pressure doesn't stay indefinitely. It also doesn't drop away straight away. I doubt we have a tunable ECU in there to see what is going on, in which case you'd better make sure you're running stock injectors, stock rail, stock FPR and basically stock everything if you're going to use the stock ECU's error codes to diagnose stuff.
  13. I think it can certainly be done, and upon reading the manuals you can see how it could very conceivably work as above. The workshop manuals are very direct and easy to interpret, surprisingly so! I think it becomes hard because people do not read the manuals, do not have the gusto to compare the wiring diagrams and think "Well what if I...." and assume it will plug and play, which it won't. It may however, be a wire-in job. It probably is, the only thing that throws me (personally) is wondering why Nissan went to the extra work of making two seperate systems in the GTT and GT. There could be some reason, but it may have absolutely no effect.
  14. Keep in mind noone has ever documented actually doing it. But if you have the NA ECU/TCU diagrams and the GTT ecu pinouts you can see that the GTT has extra pins that correspond to the exact pinouts of the NA TCU. I am ASSUMING you can join/bridge these up. ASSUMING. At the time I noticed this, I already had an aftermarket engine ECU, and an aftermarket Transmission ECU. I noticed this when I was re-wiring in the aftermarket transmission ECU as I swapped from a GT chassis to a GTT chassis. I too, wish I knew this information before I bought a haltech, and a $2000 aftermarket auto transmission controller. If it doesn't work, go manual, the NA box won't live long behind a turbo motor anyway. Even if built. I know that one too, from experience.
  15. If you have an auto (which most people do when asking this question it seems) you cannot use the GTT ECU to control it plug and play. You also cannot just leave it as is, and let the TCU control itself. The TCU by default wants to talk to the GT ECU. If you want to use a GTT ECU *only* you have to wire the TCU into the GTT ECU. If you want to use a standalone ECU for the engine, you either piggyback that off the GT ECU (gl with that) or have a complete aftermarket TCU to control the gearbox. Go manual.
×
×
  • Create New...