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Kinkstaah

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Kinkstaah last won the day on January 30

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About Kinkstaah

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    Rank: RB30E
  • Birthday 01/22/1981

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    vamp@optushome.com.au
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    mikeb0nd

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    Melbourne
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    FFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUU
  • Real Name
    Greg

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  1. Wait, so, you have a SR20VET somehow but not sure what to put it into? Your fabrication skills are unknown, but you have a SR20VET so. If you don't got the skills, my answer is a S13 or something it'll bolt into. If you do have the skills, my answer is MX5.
  2. The rears will clear massively on both sides. I have something like 40mm clearance on the inside with my wheel as it currently sits, and the front is also fine. So you have nothing to worry about with things hitting in the rear. Front may not need a spacer. The tyre itself is what is close to rubbing in my case, not the rim, as it is slightly (slightly) bulgy in my case with a 265 on a 9in rim. If you're running 235/245 you won't have that kind of problem. You won't need a 10mm spacer, at the very worst case you'd be looking at something like a 2mm slip on, however I suspect they will probably clear.
  3. As a fellow (former) R34 GTT Auto owner, you may want to consider doing that manual conversion soonner rather than later. 270kw through an untouched auto will obliterate it in short terms. Short terms may include but not be limited to: "On the Dyno trying to tune the car at all" It may be worth doing the manual conversion first, before any other mod, given the mod list you have planned here.
  4. They will be very close at the front. I have 18x9 +30 on my car (i.e r34 GTR rim size and yours compare like this) The inside edge of my wheel is perilously close to the upright arm at the front. Enough that 1.6mm more would make me nervous, but you MIGHT be able to get away as you are using a skinnier tyre relative to the rim than I am. In my scenario it is the tyre itself that is close to the upright. The amount of camber you choose to run could also play a part here. You'd almost want *less* to keep that tyre away from the upright. If you've already picked them up... the only thing to do is test it. You may at worst need a tiny spacer on the front, basically. The outer edge will clear and actually sit pretty far inside for most people's tastes. I feel you'd be able to get the same with tyre front/back with whatever you choose, for ease of rotating wheels/tyres around.
  5. One of them is after the throttle. Boost controllers get plumbed in before the throttle.
  6. For what its worth, I recently took a little orange Renault Megane 225 to Winton with a tune and similar rubber. I wish I had more tyre and it has the same modest power to weight. Plenty to have fun with. 80+ hot laps in a day also is a breath of fresh air relative to most outings with a broken Nissan. 😛 I say continue having fun.
  7. I say buy the turbo next year, and get the ECU now. Either way, you won't be getting the benefits of "more power than now" without a tune or new ecu AND the turbo itself. May even be able to save money on the Turbo itself, get a Hiflow turbo instead and an ECU as a package. Assuming it currently has a well tuned stock turbo on it currently. What turbo is currently there and what is 'good power' in that context?
  8. Dunno about laws in QLD, but that combo would be impossible to rego in Vic (older engine in newer car) without some hefty engineering costs. Generally (generally!) speaking the NA gear is good enough to handle the STOCK output of turbo motors. More generally speaking think longer term owning the car and ask yourself is this a can of worms you want to get into? It'd usually be smarter to save a little more and get something with less potential headaches going forward.
  9. Everything is interconnected. Gratitude for things in life improves sleep. Sleep reduces pain. Reduced pain improves your mood. Improved mood reduces anxiety, which improves focus and planning. Focus and planning help with decision making. Decision making further reduces anxiety and improves enjoyment. Enjoyment gives you more to be grateful for, which keeps that loop of the upward spiral going. Men (and really, all people) beginning to talk openly about depression, anxiety, and realising it affects everyone in not-so-obvious ways is one of the best trends going around too. Probably beats out the fact that Women looking good is now a fitness question, instead of a 90's rail thin Kate Moss thing, which happened along the way too. The biggest takeaway I have found through my own ups and downs is - You don't know you're depressed. You just see the world through a lens that twists what you see, hear and feel. Even happy, stable people should talk about their mental state and get a checkup. Think of it like servicing a well running car.
  10. If my car doesn't explode at Winton on Friday then oh hell yes. However: The link you posted redirects here When going to the link manually, the event is full and you have to join the waitlist (:() Also:
  11. They are the same. Just remember the rear will poke 5mm more than the front due to the 10mm wider rear track, but that is also the same with the coupe. Only an issue if you run 4x of the same wheel.
  12. I am tempted to get a gopro under there to get and figure out what is going on! I will adjust the pineapples to just see.. but it is good to know that that isn't the cause at least. I don't know If the run in procedure needs to run. Given I bought it 2nd hand, couldn't possibly still need a run in? I assumed simply driving on the damn thing for thousands and thousands of km would do that right? Did buy it used back in the day...
  13. Appreciate the comments, I should add more info I get I shouldn't need additives for the OS Giken fluid, though its made for OS Giken riffs, not Nismo. Is there a difference that is relevant here? I surely don't know.. I haven't tried any other oil since the conversion and diff rebuild was done. Previously, all thinner oils worked amazingly (I.e normally) but would exit the diff within.. 300km of normal road driving. I don't know for sure if this behaviour persists post diff rebuild. The tailshaft is new, so recently balanced. From what I know the uni was fine (fine enough for driveljne shop to say 'nah its fine' when asked. The gearbox and engine mounts and diff mounts are all new. I mean I changed every piece of Nissan rubber in the car. Every bit! The only thing I can think of is my car has a set of pineapples in 'Max grip' configuration. Given the fact this doesn't feel like tyre skipping (it feels like the subframe is going to fall out levels of clunk) then perhaps this has something to do with it. None of the cars I've driven have had those pineapples installed. Or 'subframe alignment bushes' I think is the correct term. I did also replace the entire subframe with a non-hicas subframe, so can rule the subframe itself out as a cause. I think based on this info I will try removing the pineapples to see if this changes anything. With less power back there now I probably don't need the level of squat I've had in the past.
  14. I'm bumping this because well, fkit I couldnt find anything on search and this thread is all about me and my diff. In the years since this started, the following things have happened. 1) Went manual. No difference. Still Clunky Clunky. 2) Drove three other Nismo 1.5 ways, one in a 32 GTST, one in a 34 GTT, and the one in the S15. All of these were acceptable in terms of clunkiness leading me to believe mine was toast somehow. 3) Got the entire diff pulled down and rebuilt for $800. No problem was found and they said it was pretty much as-new inside there. 4) I have found no posts ever to insinuate Nismo diffs get more worn and more loose over time. 5) Car now has a V8 infront of it and it is still clunky as ever, maybe more so, because dat torque is more noticable at 10kmh. Running OS 250R fluid. 1) Do people use LSD additive with the OS Giken fluid? Is it worth trying? I am going to try it anyway. Is there any other reason anyone can think of why my diff would be more clunky than others? I have replaced every bush in the rear end of the car, and the problem still exists. Backlash was adjusted when the diff was rebuilt, as it was entirely disassembled (I saw it all laid out on a table) at the time to "try and find the problem" of which there was no evidence... Can anyone think of a reason why it would overheat and vomit tons of standard viscosity fluid (80-140 etc) that works fine in every other 1.5 way?
  15. Oh I totally get this, and at the track there is very rarely "subtle" braking when you need to shift down multiple gears at the same time. It struck me as odd, because the pedal heights for other sporty cars (MX5's, RenaultSport Meganes etc) have far closer pedal heights and you can heel toe in them remarkably easily. To do it in my car at least you are almost going through the windshield while attempting to reach the accelerator pedal at all.... which made me wonder if this is a Manual conversion thing or not. By "Barely touching" I mean they actually are only level when the brake pedal is pushed to maximum travel down (i.e 100% braking force). That is the height of the accelerator pedal in my car in my application, which I found quite odd unless Nissan really did make the pedal box for group A racing lol
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