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About Ad's

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    Rank: RB25DET
  • Birthday 12/01/1989

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    HR31 GTS-X Coupe
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  1. Thats good. I have seen that one for quite some time, if I had the spare money I would have bought it and stashed it away for safe keeping. I would get the tabs welded back onto the manifold and re tapped, a couple of the threads in mine are pulled out and doesn't satisfy my OCD. Think you have messaged me a few times about mine , welcome to the world of GTS-R manifold owner ship and people hassling to buy it off you.
  2. Thanks guys. I have my inspiration from R31house that's for sure. That's good that you finally found one, Yahoo by any chance? I will be getting my screamer plumbed back in at some stage as its way too over powering, and I believe it ruins the note these can produce. The latest results were the cam change minus the ITB. Next tune will be the ITB setup and most probably the Link ecu with flex fuel.
  3. That video doesn't really do it justice, but now with the Kakimoto exhaust and holding it back in gears accelerating slowly it sounds nice. Agreed i need to get this thing out and start enjoying it for what its worth. Update time. Sold the pon cams and got a set of Camtech 268 9mm-intake and 272 9mm-exhaust cams from Garage 7, retaining the VCT was my main goal. Re tune make 326.9 kw, 546.8nm on 22psi thanks to Garage 7. Brand new standard radiator and rb25 fan blade went back in, the thermos weren't cutting it on the dyno but I hadn't made up a shroud for them so that would have been half the issue solved if i did. Got out to Skyline nationals 2016 towards the end of last year, show and shine plus the track day. Unloaded the car back at mine after the show and shine i took it for a quick spin around the block, from what I found it sounds like a dud wheel bearing. Cracked the shits that night, tinned on with a mate until early morning and then left for the track day with out the car. Spat the dummy at it and left it alone for a couple of months before I pulled the covers back off. Ordered a brand new RB25DET gearbox through work, went in early 2017 and test drove it up and down my driveway Feeling like the car was straying away from its 80's heritage I got my painter to paint up my old redtop covers and GTR intake. Same time swapped back to orange indicators and bought new side markers as they are still available from Nissan. In the process of swapping over to GTR ITB, bought brand new throttle bodies and the whole swap is getting the genuine catalog thrown at it. Bolts, nuts, gaskets, IACV hoses, tps sensor along with a wider range of speedflow fittings and braided black hose. Adding a coolant bleeder at the same time to cure any air lock that might occur in the head/coolant system, will get a custom swirl pot made too. New plugs for the engine bay will be ordered and wired in at the same time of re looming the engine bay loom S14/S15 AT performance catch can was ordered from Garage 7 and modified the bracket to suit my setup. Fits as if it was designed for it, more speedflow and braided black hose ordered and installed. Have ordered some carbon style bonnet struts so I can get rid of the bonnet rod out the boot. The ideas I have swimming around in my head currently ontop of the other things im going to do. To pull the head off, have it checked, cleaned and have stiffer valve springs fitted to suit the cams even though I don't seem to be suffering valve float. Then thinner headgasket to lower the CC and ARP head studs. Link ecu to bring the car into this century technology wise and get a full wire in to eliminate the old crusty loom. Have the flex fuel sensor installed with other sensors like fuel pressure to help protect the engine. Another reason I want to be able to plug my laptop in and diagnose/sensor check and log data when I feel the need. Strip the engine bay right back and repaint it. Old school 52mm black faced Greddy gauges.
  4. This idea is swimming around in the back of my head that I am considering, because I'm still running the standard headgasket at 326 kw on 22psi and I would like to change the head gasket and swap over to ARP studs. Will be following this thread.
  5. WOW. This needs a serious update, alot is changing and bigger and better plans are stewing. I had entered her into skyline nationals late last year for the track day, but the day before there is what i believe (and haven't chased it any further since) a dud wheel bearing, so because of that I didn't drive otherwise I would have a lot of footage. I do have this with my mate driving: Back years ago when I had home tuned it and still had a crap mild steel exhaust. Ill update this when I get some free time for the people that are interested
  6. RB25/30DET forged parts-brand new I really don't want to sell off my current engine build but I cannot justify it sitting around when my current Rb25 is still very healthy. This is my loss and your gain. All parts are brand new and never run, only assembled waiting for more funds to get the spare head done up so I could bolt it on and swap everything across. CP flat top rb30 pistons. 86.5mm bore size. $1000 Rb30 forged H beam rods with arp bolts. $500 Arp head studs. Never installed. $250 Arp main studs rb30. $300 King race main and rod bearings. Standard sized. $200 Rb30 block. Acid dipped, decked, bored to suit above pistons, genuine welsh plugs replaced, 1.2mm oil restrictors, main oil returns drilled to 10mm. $200 Rb30 crank, polished, balanced and wider oil pump drive fitted. $200 Dayco timing belt-suit rb30det #94407. $30 Permaseal multi layer head gasket. 87mm bore. 1.3mm thick #s244mlsr. $250 Permaseal standard headgasket. Standard bore. $30 Located in South Australia in the Adelaide hills but happy to freight for a little extra. Pm me or reply here if you are interested. Adam
  7. If you are interested in a Genuine Nissan balancer I can do one for $410 plus freight to you, yes the GTR tax is a little high on this one. RRP $525 witch id never be able to sell it for haha.
  8. No different balancer part number listed for normal and N1 34 GTR.
  9. Take some time away from it mate, throw the cover over it and re visit it in a few months you will think a lot clearer and wont regret it. I'm in the same boat currently, I cracked the shits with mine last month when it let me down a day before a track day. I threw the cover over it and leaving it alone and not even thinking about it until the new year. I put so much time and money into mine this year to have it ready and I feel let down.
  10. I can have a look and let you know, I have larger cams in mine so not entirely sure if mine will be any help if it affects it the idle at all. From memory (might not be correct) you need to let the car warm up to normal temp, disconnect the tps plug and wind the idle screw until it idles at 850-900rpm then connect it back up. If I had a datalogit I wouldn't mind doing my idle re learn again and hoping it fixes my minor hunting on start up, but considering mine is running e85 I let it warm up before moving anyways.
  11. Good to hear you are making progress. I'd be playing around with the iacv once it's warm, search for the thread and I believe that should sort it out. If I get a chance today I'll have a look at my idle figures and compare, but every car is different.
  12. Get a tune. My rb25 drove like crap with similar mods, most 25s don't like to be changed from stock unless you get them tuned. Question has been asked plenty of times, and it will come back to one thing. Tune!!
  13. My tps voltage was about the same as yours, I set it as it should be and I think it may have played apart in helping it. Adjusting the tps wont affect the tune, you are only telling the computer what position the throttle plate is at.