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Duncan last won the day on January 25

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About Duncan

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    Patrolling around the paddock
  • Birthday 08/07/1974

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  1. well a common problem these days is the nitrogen cannister loosing pressuring requiring the attessa pump to run continuously which may mean the actuator is not fully engaging. anyway, I don't actually know how fixed the standard system was designed to be. SInce you were on a 4wd dyno, did they mention the concern because other cars they have run on it were noticably more consistent? Other than actuation issues (you would expect the computer to want max front torque on a dyno because it is 100% wheel slip), they are basically an auto trans inside with wet clutches so it is possible there is a mechanical issue in the transfer case too like worn clutches. I'd have to say that if my street car had 4wd varying by 10% in extreme conditions personally I wouldnt lose a moment's sleep. Different in a race car or if you genuinely need a perfect 4wd system for regular snow driving or something,
  2. you really need an appropriately sized pin punch and a bigger hammer
  3. Yeah you need to remove the roll pin that holds the shifter receiver onto the rail. Bonus points if you don't knock the pin into the transfer case and never see it again
  4. It will be a blue relay above the ECU. If there are 2, one is the ignition and the other is ECCS (ECU power) But what exactly is the input you need? Just ignition on (from the key) or something else?
  5. Try white hot motorsport on facebook?
  6. 2wd and 4wd front ends are totally different (strut vs wishbone). Best to just make a custom setup for the ABS sender if it is that important
  7. And adapters are specific to a source model and target disc size, so your specific combination may not exist off the shelf
  8. About bloody time for an overdue intro! I reckon we crossed paths back in the day; I had my blue r33 gtst up there for about 18 months when I worked down at the base in 2003-04. Used to love the commute to work, no speed limits or traffic (unless I was going at the same time as all the buses). Damn hard to find 98 octane though, if I remember right there was only 1 BP that sold it, for any price they wanted.
  9. Good work to weigh both
  10. lol thanks Ben and no stitches Yes, best way to have anything actioned by mods is to use the report button. And no, we removed the edit feature (including attachments) long time back due to scammers.
  11. There really isnt a big difference in pressure with a 1.3 bar cap, so if using one causes leaks, it is time to replace the hoses anyway as they are on their way out (or, even easier, hose clamps might just need to be nipped up a little tighter.
  12. yeah that's exactly why I was wondering. stock pump and not happening under sustained high revs means it is unlikely to be a "too much oil in the head" issue, just a "oil shifting in the sump under high g" issue....it obviously goes ok overfilling should be fine until you have a reason to open the engine
  13. Great to hear that the oil pressure warning was doing it's job. What sump, baffles and oil pump, what is the oil breathing setup, and was anything done around block oil returns or cam cover baffles?
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