Duncan

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Duncan last won the day on December 6 2017

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About Duncan

  • Rank
    yes, A60....
  • Birthday 08/07/1974

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney

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  • Car(s)
    bnr32c34k10d21ze0f50a60

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  1. Well I haven't yet seen how the car turned out, because Kel and I borrowed a dirty evo and went and did Targa Tas last week. We took "Lucky" the evo which has all sorts of problems each time she competes but never fails to finish. In our case it blew a cooler pipe about 1klm into a 25klm stage turning it into a mirage instead of an evo for the next 10 minutes, but otherwise it did well. We ended up 8th in Early Modern and would have been 5th without the cooler pipe issue which is OK for a pretty rookie driver (although the nav was awesome all through). The main thing I remembered from doing Targa High Country a few years back was that tyre wear can be a killer, so I tried to minimise it Oh, and well done to Liam and Larry for second in Early Modern.....great effort for the week
  2. Whoa. Does that mean the black pearl is returning?
  3. Or Yavuz and Mark at Unigroup. Most likely something is wrong other than the tune eg a boost leak or bad AFM, unless you have put the PFC in and never tuned it but a good workshop will work it out
  4. I haven't heard of any of the steel subframes cracking. Later aluminium ones like M35 stagea do. I don't know anything about the S series ones Also the setup for the diff nose was changed between r32 vs r33/34 and no longer had the 4 bolts and extra support; nissan obviously thought the extra weight was not required. One thing to consider is the lower arm mounting points were also moved between 32 vs 33/34 to improve handling. S14 may also have the better geometery
  5. I don't think anyone here can guarantee the car can be registered....There is some risk that re-registering will have requirements you can't meet. But I can say that my rally import car has the vin stamped with punches onto the strut tower sheet metal. The main checks are the number engraved on the strut tower matches the rego papers, and the japanese vin matches the import papers.
  6. rust

    All skylines look like that, those parts are unpainted steel from the factory. Don't worry about addressing it at all, it's just surface rust
  7. So I can't claim to be moving quickly (but then again this build never has....) but the car is in the paint shop now. Initially they thought they were going to just even up the current surface a bit and respray it....I did warn them this was the 4th time the car had been painted. As you can see, after they got started and saw what they are in for, they are taking most of it back to bare metal to prep, prime and paint. Car should be about 50kg lighter now too. Also fixed the small modification I made against the bank at Targa High Country. They are doing inside and out, should be back in a few weeks. The only real challenge has been the front windscreen which is pretty much irreplaceable being one of Dell's heated ones. They are very nervous about taking it out knowing how hard and expensive it would be to replace....
  8. You need to obtain a copy of the import papers from DOTARS. There are multiple schemes that a car can be imported under and from memory the old 15 year old scheme which became the 1988 scheme which is becoming the 30 year scheme did not require an australian plate. Is the car currently registered in the state you need?
  9. Yes, that should be correct. remove ABS module (unplug), bypass the brake lines (either custom or non-ABS factory lines) and your 4wd should be fine.
  10. The quick answer is that both ABS and ATTESSA use the same computer. So all of the inputs go in, like wheel speed, throttle position etc that both systems need, and the ABS and 4WD control go out again. There is an N1 model that had a no ABS option, in those cases there is a different ATTESSA computer but I bet it has the same sensor inputs.
  11. The good news is, if you are certain you haven't turned the balancer or the cam, it will all still be in the right place
  12. If the problem is only the cam journals you put another head on it and replace the cam. If the oil pressure issue also caused a crank bearing to spin then you will need to machine the crank, and put in new bearings and probably rings at the same time. The crank, pistons, block, oil pump etc will probably be reusable but the machine shop will have to confirm. As for fault...in my experience shops only tell you how responsible they are for any issues before they get your money. After some expensive failure has happened you learn that they don't actually stand behind their work, that they can't actually afford to fix the issue either, or that their workshop's insurer has a whole bunch of lawyers who are willing to spend money on telling you why it's not their fault instead of spending money fixing it. Find a local mechanic you trust to strip it unless the guy in Tas has agreed up front it is his fault. Get the new guy to take pics all through and if they form the view it was the original builder's fault send them the bill. At least that way you save the 000s it will cost to ship a dead car to Tassie for them to tell you they are not at fault (in their opinion).
  13. vic 

    Sorry, mine is 162896A...
  14. Well it looks like that was a good cage.....not sure about the higher spoiler mount, I don't think it will actually improve the aero to be honest. Hopefully everyone walked away without injury
  15. A properly assembled motor can't skip a tooth let alone three. Either the idler stud broke, it was never tensioned properly in the first place, or they added an additional idler or tensioner incorrectly during the build. No matter which I'm surprised it lasted 10k without showing up the issue.