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Duncan

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Duncan last won the day on June 26

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About Duncan

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    Patrolling around the paddock
  • Birthday 08/07/1974

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    Male
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    Sydney

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    bnr32c34k10d21ze0f50a60y61

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  1. Well....check under the bonnet for a green relay you can live without for a moment and swap it into the boot....
  2. When you say 'it turns over and dies instantly' I guess you mean it does start at least momentarily, rather than just turning over and not starting? Starting with the relay, there are 2 in the boot, either side of the lock. The larger one is for 4wd and is often the cause of regular clicking, which is generally a problem with the accumulator needing to be recharged or replaced. The smaller relay (either green or blue, can't remember) is the fuel pump relay. It sounds to me like a fuel supply problem and the most obvious reason is being our of petrol. If not I'd get a multi meter onto the fuel pump terminals to make sure there is battery voltage for the first 3 seconds when someone turns the key to IGN. That should confirm there is power where there should be which would say dead fuel pump. Otherwise if there is no power there, there is some electrical issue so you'd look at relays, fuses to the fuel pump
  3. I know I'm answering a question with a question...but where did you find a PAR gearset? The business has changed a lot over time, moving from local to offshore and then returning to very small scale/specialist local setup. Yes, it would be true that any new gears are a very different setup to when they were having quality control issues from the offshore factory.
  4. welcome to Stagea ownership, I'm sure you'll enjoy it. I've had mine for more than 10 years and 300,000klm and it's been excellent. And odd. BTW, I can correct one thing on your list above: Uses way too much fuel for the way I drive - this may be due to a rich tune.(known issue with Stageas)
  5. #ruralyf The only way to get a delivery reliably is to go to the depot and pick it up. Most annoying is that the receiver never gets to choose the freight company, it is always what is cheap and convenient to the sender, even though the receiver pays for the "service"
  6. It's unlikely (but not impossible) the ECU will be able to tell you much about why it stalls. When does it run OK, and when does it stall? does it ever run rough or misfire/hesitate? Is it better when cold or hot? Does it only happen when moving?
  7. well, bolts are 01111-00051 washers 08915-1381A, nuts 08911-2081A. All seem to be available at amayama
  8. Fitting F50 to the front is straightforward and has been done many times. They just need the correct adapter to space them properly to whatever disc you choose. With the rear, that is a lot tricker. Firstly, no real need to upgrade the rear brakes, they are pretty adequate from factory for pretty much any use. Secondly you need to work out a handbrake setup; the factory rear brakes apply the handbrake to a drum inside the rear disc, so using a front brake setup there will be missing all that. Thirdly, with the pretty large front brakes on the rear you will have big rear bias problems, and need a different master cylinder. And you need to machine the rear hub to locate the front caliper correctly. All way too much trouble for something that doesn't need changing in the first place....
  9. pic helps! they are both ball joints and practically speaking you need a ball joint separator to deal with it like I mentioned at the end of my earlier post
  10. 265 will fit fine, it will depend on the offset of the wheel.
  11. so, 2 problems: 1. bolt where the lower control arm joins the hub is seized? 2. you can't remove the driveshaft from the hub, even though you've removed the nut etc? For 1 the answer is pretty much you need a longer lever. Either a bigger breaker bar, a pair of spanners hooked on each other for extra leverage or even something like a jack handle or long piece of pipe over the breaker bar. Make sure everything is really stable on jack stands first. Also, a bit of heat where the nut meets the bolt eg a blow torch can really help, also sometimes putting a socket on the nut, and then giving it a couple of good whacks with a heavy hammer can unstick it. Basically, with enough leverage either the nut will come undone or the bolt will break, either way it is off. If you can't get there for some reason, cut the bolt with an angle grinder. For 2, you need to put the nut back on about 80% so that it is just above level with the end of the dravishaft, then hit it with a heavy hammer until it starts moving. If you hit it without a nut on and it is a bit tight (sounds like it is), you are likely to wreck the threads on the end of the driveshaft which would require repair before you can use it again. Once it is freed up you obviously need to remove the nut to slide the driveshaft out full. Depending where you are up to in the job, you may also have trouble ahead with removing the steering/hicas arm ball joint. The best thing for these, assuming you need to reuse the ball joint, is the scissor type, not fork type of ball joint separator
  12. Anyway, vibration at speed (regardless of revs) is something between the gearbox and the road. Tyres are by far the most likely (I know you've said you've had them checked, but maybe see if you can borrow a different set of wheels/tyres and try again).
  13. I'm assuming you intend to remove the original dash then? If not (I haven't) the orginal dash provides the speed signal to ECU then to IQ3 I can't answer the speedo drive question for sure. I'm surprised the 32 and 33 ones are different as per the first post.
  14. I'm not sure of the specifics of the post 95 rule, but there are plenty of aftermarket ECUs that are OBD2 compliant. So unless you are unable to change the ECU, something like a Haltech plug in will get you there about $38,000 cheaper.
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