Duncan

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Duncan last won the day on May 7

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About Duncan

  • Rank
    Patrolling around the paddock
  • Birthday 08/07/1974

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    Male
  • Location
    Sydney

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  • Car(s)
    bnr32c34k10d21ze0f50a60y61

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  1. Duncan

    I'm not much help since I don't visit all the time, but I hadn't noticed a speed issue lately, and I haven't noticed it being better since the changes...
  2. Duncan

    Assuming your car is 2wd (since you don't say, and neither does your profile) not 4wd? When you say you "fitted it up and the inner diameter for the cv spline is to big" do you mean you can't press the hub face back into the bearing because it is too large, or because it is too small/loose or something else? If you post up your VIN# someone can look up the exact nissan part# in FAST for you.
  3. Duncan

    Or, pull the top off and get it sand blasted clean. If you can see through it, don't paint it and put it back, otherwise do so
  4. Duncan

    30% grade audi tips over onto it's roof and catches fire defender maintains 25km/h
  5. Duncan

    I'd do it one-off for slow and shorter trip, but not regularly. For a start most car trailers are 500-800kg so that means the car you are towing is limited to 900kg. And even then when you tow right up to the load limit you often learn that while the chassis can take the load, the engine won;t deliver the performance to tow it safely (hello creeping up hills on the freeway)
  6. I guess you are trying to stay within factory settings; have you also got the factory suspension? If so, most likely the car is riding lower than it used to which gives more camber, you can measure the distance from the centre of the wheel to the rear guard on both sides to see if it is even. New springs may be a good idea. The other, less likely, possibility is that something has been bent over the years. In that case a new, factory arm would probably correct it if you knew exactly what was bent out of upper control arm, traction arm, lower control arm, hub, toe/hicas link, subframe or subframe mounting point.
  7. Duncan

    series 1/2 R33 GTST? Little more detail required....
  8. Duncan

    The factory lines are wound right around both sides of the engine and would be a pain to remove and replace in 1 piece without the engine lifted...but depending on the exact leak a competent hydraulic service should be able to repair/replace the damaged section with something else suitable without anywhere near as much work.
  9. I go through Just Jap too, having separate spares rather than whole kits has been useful to me. I've ordered pads, rings and even new caliper pairs through them
  10. I don't know them specifically, but they look equivalent based on my detailed research (ie look at a pic on their website)
  11. I like them because they are cheap and good enough for the job. compare a kit that contains new calipers, pads, rotors, lines to the cost of buying a second hand caliper, rebuilding it, new pads, new rotors, new lines and you come out way ahead. And the caliper/disc combo is a lot lighter than brembos + factory style disc. And the caliper is slimmer than brembo so it fits under wheels better I've bought a couple of those kits for different cars, generally 330mm because you don't need too large wheels.
  12. Duncan

    Definitely the feed. You want clean fuel in your injectors, not returning to your fuel tank
  13. I reckon those d2/attkd/g4/ksport/whatever brakes are the best option for pretty much any upgrade since they come with everything including brake lines. I did manage to wear through 2 sets of rings and replaced 1 set of calipers due to sticky pistons after about 10 years running them on multiple cars, including at targa tas
  14. I run brembos (porsche) with an adapter on the race car and have not had any trouble. There is no reason an adapter would cause trouble unless it is not engineered correctly; strength of the bracket and resulting location of the caliper on the disk are critical I don't have direct experience with the alpha omega ones although I'm a little surprised how close the threaded holes are to the outside of the adapter in those pics. It's hard to be sure without measuring but I'd be looking for at least the same diameter as the hole to be left around it (ie 14mm hole, 14mm around it to support it). Generally their stuff is good, and I haven't heard from anyone having a problem with them