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Duncan

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Duncan last won the day on June 26

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About Duncan

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    Patrolling around the paddock
  • Birthday 08/07/1974

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    Male
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    Sydney

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    bnr32c34k10d21ze0f50a60y61

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  1. Firstly, there is nothing wrong with a PFC, they've been reliably running rbs for decades. Yes there are newer ECUs with additional features but a PFC is able to run it perfectly until you start to get pretty highly modified. The afm curve is not really that important. Pick whatever is closest and then just tune it. Basically your fuel map is based on whatever the AFM is telling it for load, so whatever it is set to when you tune is fine. Just don't change it after you tune it! If you are trying to put back an unknown AFM curve so your tune will be OK again, you are out of luck. Even 1% different to the original curve can be enough to make the tune unsafe. FWIW I do have the rb26 data for standard, vg30, vh41, power intake and the calculated result I used for nismo afms per GTSBoy's approach because I went through that (turns out vg30 and nismo afms are not exactly the same after all) but it was pre-tuning, and it was never really worth the effort because you still just tune the result the same way
  2. It's just a stud in a thread, but it could be seized. Couple of tricks -spray well with penetrating oil over a day or 3 -heat often loosens these things, eg a 15sec with a blow torch -with a nut just protruding, give it a firm hit with a hammer to loosen the threads. if it is the lock nut coming undone from the 2nd nut you need to tighten them. If you think there is too much force and they still are not turning, try those 3 tricks
  3. This is a really simple question....but did you centre the rack before putting the steering wheel on?
  4. reading out of order! good finding. missing a 1 on the tensioner stud
  5. actually, I seem to have the tensioner stud part (13073-V5001) but not the idler bolt. please double check before trusting the internet!
  6. well, sorry to bring bad news, but at least you know before it's all back together. I'd strongly recommend you change the bolt and stud that hold the idler and tensioner at the same time. There have been instances of old bolt snapping which throws the timing belt off, and will result in piston/valve damage in the engine.
  7. Firstly the bad news is that side A goes into the engine, and side B faces out. Sounds like you have them the other way around. Those caps are just baffle plates to reduce oil spraying around, you remove them first if you need to remove the cam caps. No need to touch them if you are just doing the timing belt You should really replace the idler and tensioner bearings, and the bolt and stud respectively that hold them when you do the timing belt. The tensioner spring is actually held on the small stud you can see to the right of the tensioner in your pic, not the water pump bolt. When you have lined the new belt up properly (tensioner held back with an alley key, nut loose) you release the allen key so the tensioner is on the spring, rotate the motor twice using the balancer and the tension will be correct (tighten the tensioner nut).
  8. Agreed. It is possible to snap a cam either removing or installing it if you are a gorilla. But if you take it incrementally it is perfectly safe.
  9. It left the factory KH3 which I believe is black
  10. The ECU connector is totally different (2 row vs 3 row), you need the non-neo one to match your car. They should come up all the time, r33 rb25 Power FC is reasonably common, r34 neo rb25 less so
  11. Best to post up here, and I think you will need to provide your vin
  12. I've got an R auction car in Oz, my cima had a rear end accident and quality repair. The car has been complied in Australia and there is no sign of the repair, and no problem with the car for more than 200,000klm now. Simply, I'd go for it, particularly for race use, as long as a broker I trusted inspected in directly.
  13. Yes, multiple ways to deal with it. But the one that doesn't cost 00s or 000s is small wheel spacers. If they are legal where you are.
  14. That's your caster rod/ radius rod. Basically, the tyre is to wide for the offset of your wheels. You may have previously had tyres the "same" size but in practice different tyre manufacturers have different actual tyre sizes for a nominated size like 225/50r16 Easiest solution, assuming you have plenty of thread on your wheel nuts, is to add a 5mm alloy spacer, which will push the wheel out 5mm, assuming they are legal where you are.
  15. Agreed. Although head gasket is the most likely (but not) only reason for 2 adjacent cylinders to have low compression
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