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Duncan last won the day on July 8

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About Duncan

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    yes, A60....
  • Birthday 08/07/1974

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  1. 32-34 hot.....most people prefer the lower end of the range. cold is too hard to guess, depends on track, car and driver. If you have no idea where to start set them to 28, do 3 hard laps, come into the pits hot and let them down to 32
  2. If there is any way to use I hoist I'd go that way in an instant. Quicklift is a lot of money for a quicker version of jack+stands. You'd need to be lifting a lot of cars to make it worthwhile I think 2 post hoists start at about 1500 for a second handy that would be fine for weekend use.
  3. Sort of; in that I have one in boxes on the shed floor. When we moved out of the old place I've had to leave the hoist behind because 1/ I can't get 3 phase power here, and 2/ the shed roof is about 0.5m too short for the hoist I have. So as this is kind of temporary (for a year or 3....), I grabbed one of these. Not unpacked or used yet, I haven't had a job that needed it so far but will have to change the sludge/oil in the bush basher soon enough and replace the water in the brake lines with brake fluid, both of which will give me a reason to give it a go. Without having used it yet, thoughts from me are that it is very expensive (a full hoist is the same price or cheaper) and obviously won't let you stand under it but this is easy for clearance, has no install cost or requirements, is portable, and has no overhead clearance issues.
  4. I think I understand better now. You had a t04e on a motor with a standard ECU, then the compression test showed it was broken, and now you are trying to work out if you should put that turbo back on the new motor with the standard ECU? The simple answer is anything change to a turbo will need a tunable computer. Hell, just changing the boost on a standard turbo will need something. You need to address the ECU if you are determined to keep that turbo.
  5. mate either they did the test wrong, or your motor is f**ked. does it run OK normally?
  6. The oring will be for the oil filler cap...and thanks for the tip because those washers individually are as dear as poison. Having said that I've used slices of fuel hose instead of the washer successfully too
  7. well, there is kind of a religious war out there about whether springs on their own are sufficient, or whether sway bars and springs are better. In production cars we have to run stock sway bars so we run heavier springs (ie the MCA and common Japanese approach) but when I'm not doing prod cars I run heavier bars and lighter springs and I think it handles better, particularly over bumps. The MCA time attack car is a good advertisement, but not really relevant for the average full chassis race car. Only time attack cars run on the smoothest track, 1 lap at a time on super soft tyres and with massive downforce. The rest of us live in a world with compromised track surfaces or roads with plenty of bumps, little to no downforce and tyres that are expected to last hours of racing and not degrade.
  8. f**k it must be frustrating on the track with standard sway bars
  9. Just lift the wheel off the ground, put some nice solid stands under it and then move the wheel back and forward. It may require a reasonable (but not crazy) amount of force. Rose joints wear out quickly on road cars, and instead of moving freely either jam or get loose and rattly. They are really designed for race use and regular replacement. If it is the castor rods you'd be better replacing them with standard arms and adjustable bushes, or adjustable arms with bushes. Could still be any (every) other joint but they are a good place to start
  10. how old are you castor arms, and are they rose jointed or poly bush? worn rose joints would be a likely source of clicking when changing direction. Is everything else stock?
  11. +1. Wear there allows uncontrolled toe changes at the rear which can be really interesting
  12. lol when did you start putting *2* bolts on the starter motor??
  13. Hi Leroy can you break that down a little: is ep3 a civic? when you say "tracking at a garage" is that a wheel alignment? Was there any information provided with it like before and after alignment settings? They almost certainly will not have changed ride height unless it was an expensive alignment, you would have noticed. Assuming all that is true, it is mostly likely they reduced toe out at the front (and possibly rear) to setting which are nicer for tyre wear. Without having the settings its just a guess though
  14. Very, very rich AFRs are normal when a car is misfiring because the whole cylinder of fuel gets dumped out the exhaust instead of burning. Given you've recently had work done, the most likely is that you've got an air leak somewhere. stick your head under the bonnet while running and listen around all of the vacuum lines for air hissing. Also check all of the intake / intercooler piping is not leaking
  15. Holy shit. No-one could make that up.