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Duncan last won the day on July 8

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About Duncan

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    yes, A60....
  • Birthday 08/07/1974

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  1. and there's always Nissan...I need mine if the spare engine ever goes back together....
  2. yeah they are 1.0 pitch. "fine" or "coarse" changes depending on the bolt size, I'm not sure if 1.0 is considered fine or coarse for M7
  3. Thanks for persisting, made me get off the keyboard and rummage around to find and measure one . Confirming they are actually M7x20mm (11mm head)
  4. M5 is the diameter of the bolt and does mean a 5mm threaded section. the head is 8mm so you would use a 8mm spanner. 8.8 is the tensile strength of the bolt, it is printed on the head of a metric bolt. It's important you don't buy a replacement with a lower tensile strength. I don't have one to measure the length handy but from memory they are about 20mm long (from the underside of the head to the end of the thread). If you can't confirm the exact length just screw a bolt in lightly and make sure it tightens the plate/cam gear in place before the thread bottoms out. If it is too long there is no issue cutting it shorter to suit. So you would buy 8 bolts described as High Tensile (8.8 grade) M5x20mm, for example http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M5-5MM-HIGH-TENSILE-NUT-BOLT-X10-SETS-M5-X-20MM-ZINC-GOLD-8-8-FREE-POST-/131933153719?hash=item1eb7d429b7:g:Dk8AAOSw8oFX0gMP
  5. They're M5 (8mm head), about 20mm long. Nissan would have them but I would be happy to run any 8.8 grade bolt at the right length....so check bunnings...
  6. Well we did another big tow, about 1400klm, this weekend, dragged the Leaf from Goulburn to Tamworth and back via the inland road (Bathurst - Mudgee - Gunnedah). It was a nice drive, stuff all traffic and lots to see. And no issues with the T which was great. We even went beyond the actual black stump on the drive.... (well actually it's a replica, because ironically the original burned down around 1910 sometime...) After that we stole the guitar and headed home Haven't really got much else done on it lately due to selling the old place, moving, racing....all first world troubles. I have changed all the interior and exterior lights to LEDs to save fuel but that's about it so far.
  7. Like this....get a mobile broken bolt guy out. He'll tell you that you should have called before breaking the easy out but should still be able to fix it.
  8. well you can almost certainly buy a nismo diff centre to suit it (whether or not that is GTT I'm not sure, but the catalogues will say). Same goes for Kaaz, Cusco, whoever else if you want a similar outcome cheaper. Putting a matching centre in your current diff will almost certainly be cheapest because you only need to deal with the #splines on the output shaft. You even keep your current ratio because the one in your current diff is re-used. So just call a seller who knows their catalogue and order the right part# I'd have to say though, this is a fair whack of money for something that isn't really going to make much difference, unless you are embarrassed by single spinner burnouts or something. If you genuinely want your car to drive better, swaybars or better tyres, or maybe even better brakes would be the place to start rather than the LSD.
  9. the easiest way to improve both the angle of the ground to ramps and ramps to bed of the trailer (where sometimes zorst scrapes) is to raise the rear of the tow car on caravan leveller/ramps or similar. I've seen the same trick with a jack under the towball but I think that puts a hell of a lot of weight on a jack... And if that's not enough go the blocks of wood suggested above at the start of the ramp, you can even have them flat on the ground as long as they are lower than the distance of splitter to ground on the car. And if you can work out how to do it, long ramps are the real answer. About twice what a normal trailer allows for is lovely.
  10. Exactly. Auction grading is a japanese system not an Australian one. A car that has had a major repair done properly can be complied as long as there is no rust or structural damage remaining. My Cima was R due to a rear repair but was done properly, complied and has been trouble free since
  11. well the good news is that the exhaust ports and their studs go into the head, not the block.....which means you probably have a perfectly good (and valuable) rb30 block. the single cam rb30 head is probably worth about $3 including postage so you may be able to just swap it for another if you are trying to get it going cheaply.
  12. hahaha people need to be careful what questions they ask you! I wonder what a holden kingswood would look like with a 13b rotary in it?
  13. OMG I see what you did there. And even more ironic the light reading was quite heavy!
  14. OK, as per Neil's demand.....let me be clear that I owe the good old boys at the Titan factory an apology for suggesting the exhaust might be broken. No sign of any issue or melted wiring. Consult 3 says the issue was caused by the rear diff lock solenoid failing (9 times). But that may yet be no issue at all so fingers crossed, it did engage OK when I tried in on the weekend. Onto the next item, getting a decent anti-wombat vision light bar in place. I picked up a narva light bar and went to fabricate some mounts when.... ....I found out the front bumper is actually steel. yes steel. no plastic. like a 1979 200b. And not only that, but the good folks at Nissan were kind enough to put 2x 8mm holes within the adjustment on the narva bar's mounting, so this big arse light bar is firmly in place with no drilling, cutting, screwing, rivnuting etc etc. Awesome. Do still need to wire it in though so it's not too much use yet
  15. careful with brake sets that look cheap; make sure it includes bolt on adaptors for your hub and chosen disc, brake lines, discs/rings (+ hats if 2 piece) and usable pads. the only experience I've had personally with willwoods was really disappointing; Neil has a set of 4 spot ones on the radical and you should see the caliper flex when you put your foot on the pedal. Also poor pad availability for that caliper. But I guess that can't be representative of every caliper they make or they wouldn't be in business. the alpha omega seem like a worthwhile approach too, but again include the cost of calipers, lines, decent pads etc when comparing. finally, keep in mind brake size vs wheels you have or intend to buy. wheels bigger than 18 get expensive for semi slick tyres.