Duncan

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Duncan last won the day on September 4 2018

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About Duncan

  • Rank
    Patrolling around the paddock
  • Birthday 08/07/1974

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney

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  • Car(s)
    bnr32c34k10d21ze0f50a60y61

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  1. Duncan

    lol that should get you to the shops OK!
  2. Duncan

    yeah that's why I mentioned the synchros. the bearings in these boxes are generally pretty good with only front input shaft bearing sometimes needing replacement. Once you strip it down you will probably find the bearings are OK to reuse, and expensive and hard to find if you want to do it for preventative maintenance.
  3. Duncan

    In addition to GTSBoy's advice, there were running changes during the r33 gearboxes (and your late 32) so you will need to be careful as some parts are replacements and some are different. eg, I know there is some difference in the strength of the selector clips in the series 3 (last) R33 boxes. Unfortunately the best gearbox shop for skylines appears to be gone, and I haven't had to find another place since. For what it's worth, as well as bearings, you are likely to need new synchros by now, and there were also changes in those over the years. I don't know enough to give specific advice.
  4. Duncan

    I can surely say your pics are a pull clutch if that helps!
  5. Duncan

    Awesome choice. We've had a z24 d21 navara for about 20 years, only 2wd though. Did a full rebuild on it (engine, box, diff, bushes, suspension etc) about 5 years back for it's 400,000klm birthday and has been running faultlessly since goods news is parts are easy and cheap compared to imports. and you'll save a bit since it already seems to have usable tyres fitted, that makes a big difference to traction on rough stuff
  6. Duncan

    if not Nissan you are probably out of luck. Look up the part numbers then order through amayama or similar
  7. Sorry fatz. Thread closed as there is no sign of any on topic posts.
  8. Duncan

    you didn't mention which skyline or put it in your profile which makes answering more challenging... but, in addition to the factory rocker cover gasket for your model, you should change the half moon seals that sit behind the cam at the same time. some people recommend a thin bead of silicone gasket to seal the rocker covers but I have never needed that (except on the half moon seals where the factory workshop manual says it should be used). also pay attention to the screws that hold the covers down. They have rubber bushes on each which have almost certainly perished by now and may well be the main problem (because the screws won't be holding the covers down properly). You can also buy these for a couple of dollars each, or cut 3mm lengths from garden hose for the ghetto option.
  9. Duncan

    I owe fatz....
  10. Mark....you were alive in the 70s.....
  11. Duncan

    really! I'm trying that next time the opportunity comes up No doubt it will
  12. Duncan

    Hope the price took into account the problem mate. If you want to replace the rings you need to at least hone the cylinder. To hone the cylinder you need the piston and rod out. To take the piston and rod out you need the head off, or may be the crank out To take the crank out you need to undo the rear main oil seal and oil pump bolts, and remove the sump To remove the rear main oil seal you need to remove the gearbox. And clutch. And flywheel. To remove the oil pump you need to remove the timing belt gear. And timing belt. And timing belt cover. And the radiator. To remove the sump....well....don't know. Probably front subframe out which means brakes off, steering shaft disconnected, ABS unplugged, top shock bolts and upper control arm bolt, power steering lines off, exhaust dump pipe off. We could do this list all day. Basically you have a repair that is going to cost a minimum 5 grand to do at a shop if they do minimal work. If at all possible you should spend about twice and rebuild the whole motor including new seals and gaskets, rings, bearings, machining, oil and water pump, head reco. You should consider boring out the block and putting in forged pistons at the same time. You have one of the best performance cars ever made, it would be a shame to have an engine that is not right.
  13. Duncan

    Ha! looks like Alan is pushing hard in that pic 😛 Sounds like a good project. There is actually a fair bit of information on these forums and a couple of the Grp A owners have been active on here at times. One thread is here (particularly page 😎 but there are others : Please check further but there were something like 5 cars built for the factory and other teams like GIO. At least one of the cars spent some time in Malaysia in a different spec before coming home. Also I believe one of them was written off after the adelaide roll over but I guess you are looking for vins, not the cars' locations. The chassis used were just off the production line, nothing special as they started, so they will just have standard japanese vins. They were not all pulled at the same time so they won't be consecutive.
  14. Duncan

    odd if it has been off recently....rb26 balancer bolt is 446-466nm according to factory manual and they get undone OK
  15. Duncan

    sounds like it might be seized pretty bad then....the starter makes plenty of torque. A shorter breaker bar is ok for the starter trick because you don't need to put leverage on it. alternatively, try a "power bar". no, not a type of protein bar. a thin you hit with a hammer to make balancer bolts come undone. mine is an SP