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Duncan

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Duncan last won the day on October 26

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About Duncan

  • Birthday 08/07/1974

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    Goulburn, NSW

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    bnr32c34k10d21f50a60y61hy51
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  1. jeebus mate, look after yourself....none of us are backwards cap kids in r33 gtst s anymore Plus, I'd really miss your stories about buying a car to leave it stock...
  2. They don't survive abuse bwith big power and a lot of AWD, but 285kw should not be an issue. I'd be looking for any sloppyiness between the driveshaft at the xfer case all the way to the front hubs, I think something is moving that is causing additional shock and the diff is the weak link
  3. well, vk56 is the go but I guess it is kind of a v8 sort of
  4. Welcome to SAU! Is Berra a typo and you meant Barra, ie the engine in most taxis in Australia? If so, I think there has been a couple of people with R chassis swaps, but have you checked physical space in the z engine bay as they are a very long motor?
  5. yeah it's nice for the water to go straight back where you source it...have a look at solar pumps and it could run any time the sun is up without needing to keep an eye on it
  6. What bloody summer, it's 1o here this morning. I knew Global Warming was a conspiracy to reset the world economy by skinsuit wearing lizard people who unleashed covid via the 5g towers Also....it's not instagram unless you show us pics of your welds. I somehow forgot to take any pics of the repairs I did to the slasher a couple of weeks ago
  7. do you have any way to get a fuel pressure gauge on the system? my guess is the pump is simply dying. if you don't have something any decent mechanic should be able to check static fuel pressure for you. re releasing pressure when you open the cap, this is normal and fine. The cap should be vented to allow both air in as the tank empties and air out if the tank heats up and the fuel expands, which you might notice most during spring as the weather gets warmer (not that I know if it is spring where you are, there is no location on your profile :))
  8. Also, is it a standard ECU or aftermarket, and if standard do you have some way to read the consult port?
  9. There are either 1 or 2 blue relays there depending on build date, the first of them turns the ECU on (or off) and the other if present is for the coils. As you have no fuel pressure, no spark that implies no ECU as the next step to look at. But I've jumped well ahead, first you need to check all fuses in next to the battery, and also at the driver's knee. Very possible something important was moved during the work then shorted on your trip home blowing the fuse. Also check all connections are present at the battery
  10. Did you start the car when you picked it up, or was it already running. And when you turn the key in the ignition do the red lights come on in the dash (and for bonus question, if you listen near the passenger footwell can you hear a relay turn on when you turn the key to ignition and off about 5 seconds after you turn it back to ACC.
  11. Yeah oil pressure will be a good guide for a bearing issue, but the noise getting worse when reving is a pretty clear indicator of a big end bearing issue. Still, if you think it is front of engine, the top timing cover can be removed and you can still run the engine, so that is worth a try. There are bearings under there for the timing belt idler and tensioner so it is not impossible Either way, the less you run the engine, the less further damage occurs.
  12. Just saving this for future re-quoting. Yeah the airbox with a power override might help. I'm not convinced a naca duct is a better idea than window open a little (or totally) on a hot day, they were more for cars without power windows or even totally fixed windows. (unless of course you are ducting it through an air con direct to your helmet super car style....). Cool suit is awesome if heat is a real problem.
  13. Is the bung in properly (ie not leaking) and /or is the smoke just old coolant coming off the exhaust?
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