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Duncan

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Duncan last won the day on June 26

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About Duncan

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    Patrolling around the paddock
  • Birthday 08/07/1974

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    Male
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    Sydney

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  • Car(s)
    bnr32c34k10d21ze0f50a60y61

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  1. Our dam has been equally kind over the years as the drought has gone on. Got a hilux alternator from it the other week
  2. a bit of heat always helps, ally fittings can seize in a cast block unfortunately. Given that its already f**ked id take to it with a hammer and chisel after a bit of heat to try and get it started. Once it goes should be easy enough to get on. sounds funny but another option might be those plumbers pipe wrenches as its a pretty big fitting if you have space
  3. Also get plenty of wd40 etc on the studs and hard lines for a couple of days before. The biggest (unexpected) thing is normally studs failing and snapping, so if you can have them freed up as possible before you start it will really help. Once a stud has given out you might be lucky and able to get it off with whatever remains, or you might have to drill and easi out it which is where the job turns into a disaster. Heat /blow torch can really help if you don't like how it feels when you are undoing it. The hard lines often won't free up from the banjo properly so they turn with it an eventually snap, so like Ewan said aftermarket braided lines handy means you don't have to worry about that. Good luck mate!
  4. It's not worth it. But interesting point, it may have been de-turboed before you got it. The build plate in on the firewall will tell you, either post up a pic of it or let us know the main string of letters/numbers, something like ER33-0123456
  5. unless your location is incorrect, you have the major benefit of a billion mechanics nearby with consult tools. I would start with that for sure. when you installed the lock bar, what did you do with the hicas solenoids in the engine bay, and the power steering pump's second port? The idle dropping and headlights diming is almost certainly due to the power steering pump activating and adding drag to the engine. With the steering rack there is a pressure switch where if you turn the wheels the ECU ups the idle. I'm not familiar with HICAS but presumably when it is pumping fluid the same issue occurs (ie, the ECU needs to know to keep the revs up)
  6. there are lots of variations over the 20 odd years these were made. I guess the question is why exactly do you need to know, or are you just interested? the short blocks/ bottom ends are pretty much the same, heads were different between original and NEO, sump is different between 2wd and 4wd (since 4wd has a diff in it), and various external bits like CAS, ignitors/coils, turbo changed between years and models too. The key difference in the NEO for aftermarket use is the improvements in the head which made them flow better and also better starting point for modifications.
  7. lol just like the workshop manual says. the only things worth mentioning are dropping the rear of the gearbox by lowering (but not removing) the gearbox cross member bolts, will make getting to the top bolts much easier (either from above, or by using a set of long extensions while standing at the rear of the gearbox), and of course the engine has to be on the exact sample angle as the gearbox/input shaft when you get to the last couple of cm. BTW I hope the mechanic is mates rates if they needed to get you to ask this...
  8. Absolutely. The rings won't bed if the bore is fuel washed. How much compression has gone missing (how does the leaky cylinder compare to the others?) and, did it have a missfire for those 40 mins? finally, once the injector is replaced you may still be able to get the rings to bed properly by running it in hard on a dyno to save having to remove, disassembly and re-hone.
  9. wow, a 2l, non turbo stagea. ouch. hope the neo head is awesome....
  10. That pic is not good enough for me to work out, but there is no vacuum line to PS. Most likely it used to be one of the 3 lines that run to the carbon cannister....do you have one? It is mounted near PS in the engine bay from factory
  11. Duplicate threads merged, (because I think both answers are right!). First make certain it is not selecting 5th (ie, at freeway speeds are you sure the revs are identical when you change), if it is not selecting 5th it is box out and get them to fix whatever part of gearbox magic they didn't put together correctly..... When the car is off, and you move it through all 5 gears (+r) does it make the same clunking noises into each gear? If there is no noise or resistance into 5th that is a pretty good sign something is wrong internally...
  12. Not sure who WOF is, or what state (or for that matter country) you are in to give a more specific answer....but generally no, if you went for a recheck and they saw a removable silencer in the end of your exhaust, I would not expect them to think it was OK (they may suspect you intend to remove it after the check, which I'm sure you wouldn't)
  13. lots of ways this can go wrong, primarily because the shifter goes into the transfer case, not the gearbox. So, transfer case could have 4l of gear oil in it (not good for it, and likely to cause plenty of splashing). Yes, the shifter boot is the primary thing keeping the transfer case oil in, secure it with a big cable tie. There should be a gasket between the housing and shift housing but that is much less likely to be a source of leak, and can just be silicone if you don't have a gasket handy.
  14. No reason the MLS should not seal as well or better than stock head gasket, particularly if you add hylomar. If it was me and the weep is minor, I'd live with it, big job to fix.
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