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Found 575 results

  1. R34 SKYLINE GT-T 1998 White, manual 180k kms Carbon fibre/FRP Z Tune Vented bonnet, recently re painted (colour matched) Z Tune style front bar Heavy duty clutch Lenso D1 Rims 18inch painted black Slotted and drilled rotors Hybrid electronic boost controller Greddy colour infometer Blitz electronic boost gauge with peak recall Cross over piped front mount intercooler GCH Hi flowed standard OP6 Turbo Standard manifold Driftworks thermostatic oil cooler Nismo 2 way mechanical LSD Neurothane suspension bushes Hardrace Adjustable Caster arms Cusco Hicas removal kit DGR adjustable coilovers White line adjustable sway bars front and rear 1000cc injectors Upgraded fuel pump LED Dash lights HID head lights Blue LED under dash accent lighting connected to a switch. Jenson double din touch screen head unit, linked to a revised camera. Custom made Light duty removable towbar Nistune, re-tuned by Mark at MRC Castle hill. Z32 airflow meter Larger aluminium radiator Standard Nissan exhaust fitted at the moment, But I have a full 3inch stainless steel Blitz Nur spec exhaust with high flow cat. ( this was removed to pass an EPA inspection ). This will go with the car. Also have a turbosmart, plumb back blow off valve, but the standard Nissan one seems to be doing just fine. DBA slotted rotors with TRW pads Alarm and immobiliser fitted. Freshly serviced, oil, filters, spark plugs. Greddy magnetic sump plug Always run on premium synthetic oils Liqui-moly, most recently Penrite 10 tenths , Most importantly the engine oil was always up to temp before anything more than cruising. The car is in above average condition, a few small imperfections, and wear can be seen. Still a lot better than some “immaculate” or “mint” cars I’ve seen. The steering wheel looks pretty ordinary, there are a few cracks around the bottom of the front bar, a small carpark dent on the drivers door near the handle. $17,000. Call or text Adam on 0426 46 50 50, Car is located in western Sydney.
  2. For sale: Nissan Skyline R34 GTT Sedan 318 rwkw, silver, in Victoria Key points: Last of the original R chassis with the venerable RB25DET, in the final & best Neo guise Lots of work done: tyres, suspension, steering, drivetrain, mechanical diff, cooling, turbo, servicing, preventative maintenance etc. etc. Beautiful RB bark at 20 psi and the sweet smell of ethanol A registered car with 4 doors, child seat mounting points, big boot, sleeper look for no unnecessary attention No accident history, always garaged under my ownership, regularly serviced Recent updates: New price New photos New steering rack No RWC selling as is Inspections welcome Price $14,800 Please PM here or call/email via the full ad: http://bit.ly/4doorad – Photos: http://bit.ly/4doorpics Note: This is a replacement thread for the previous one: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471783-fs-well-balanced-r34-gtt-sedan-for-street-and-track-vic/?do=findComment&comment=7885711
  3. If the page links doesn't work, please manually enter the page number into URL for the corresponding page. This post was updated on: 01/06/2017: This thread is here providing information on our high flowed or built turbos as well as installation and trouble shooting. I'm happy to help or assist with every one who is currently using or looking to purchase our products or services. Brief Introduction about our selves: We are Australian based turbocharger manufacture in Melbourne, We worked with experienced and skilled local engineers to produce our goods and we've been doing that since Oct 2007. We constantly update our production turbochargers and will do our best deliver value to our customers. My name is Stao you can PM or contact 0413457185 if any assistance is required. For our High flowed RB25 Turbos, they comes in 21U or OP6 from factory. The 21U rear housings are smaller can capable of 430HP after high flowing, and larger OP6 are capable of doing around 460HP. PU high flow option is available for any one chasing for 450 to 500HP. They are built with a larger .82 internally gated turbine housing with Nissan OEM bolton pattern, braided oil feeding line and a high pressure actuator. Below is the Rb25det Hitach turbo high flow catalog with few dyno sheets. ATR43SS is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based with OEM dump pipe pattern. This series is specifically engineered for speed with smooth street driving ability. ATR43 is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based comes in .63 and .82 turbine housing with OEM dump pipe pattern. Power is rated from 450HP to 600HP depends on profile chosen. Initial release date: 24/08/2009: We also carry out turbocharger repairs, housing/CHRA modifications and high flow services for All Garrett, HKS, Mitsubishi, Toyota, KKK and Made in China turbochargers. Do feel free to PM / contact us for free assistance. Important Installation Notes for RB2xdet Highflowed and PU units: Sleeve bearing turbochargers requires higher volume of oil flow, are sold with 50cm long braided oil feeding line line that replaces the standard oil restrictor in side factory oil lines, 12mm benjo bolt, and a M12x1.25mm speed flow adaptor. The adaptor goes onto the engine block, benjo bolts goes into the bearing housing with hollow screw supplied. 3x copper washers are required during installation, Which we can supply them for $9 additional or can be purchased at local auto stores. Factory water lines: T3x bearing housing used are 3mms shorter then OEM Hitachi's bearing housings. Means water lines needs to be very slightly bent / forced backwards. Stock actuator: We normally modify the factory actuator's fitting bracket allowing it for a bit of preloading. The actuator bracket bolt wholes has to be filed 5mms towards the turbine housing if not received with the turbo or getting fitted by others. Once done it can be adjust and pre-load ensuring the waste gate is 100% shut. For PU high flowed and ATR43 units with larger Diameter turbine housings, the engine side water line needs to be slightly bent / altered around the housing area. Installing ATR43 turbocharger: ATR43 units generally runs on a round 3inches inlet and round 2 inches out let. It is highly recommended to run a metal intake pipe. How ever if you wish to bolton to stock gears you need: 1x 3inch straight hose, 1x 2.5inch metal sleeve, 1x 2inches 90 degrees hose, 1x 2inches metal sleeve. We can supply all those parts for $100 extra. Tip for a easy installation would be removing the actuator with bracket pre-installation, that would allow lot more room for your tools to reach the manifold studs, and install the actuator and bracket back on after the rest of the installation is complete. Make sure the actuator is preloaded by roughly 3mms. Since larger turbine housings are used, due to larger physical size most of them would be taller then stock pushing the exhaust back by roughly 15mms. Most cars would be running an aftermarket exhausts, depending on the angle of the pre-made dump / front pipe, check the clearance between that to the Air-con water drain pipe. If fouls, simply by pulling it back with zip ties and secure it on the chassis. ATR43Gx/SS2 DIY with photos ATR43SS1xx DIY with photos and video Easy Induction pipes: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-78 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-89 Couple of extremely important factors: 1. After turbo installation do check pressure leaks ( I can make you a simple plug with a hose nipple for $50). Turbo will not perform if there are leaks. 2. Most of our turbos are installed with a 18psi high pressure actuator. by pass all boost controlling devices on test run, Boost gain from EBC based on stock actuator will cause massive boost creep. 3. Make sure the car's got a at least 3inch metal induction pipe with pod filter. Do not run those metal stuffed stock intake pipe. 4. An good exhaust system should restrict no more then 10KWs (My HKS silent power made 3KWs restrictions on a 316rwkws application). So Dyno tune with cat and exhaust dropped, (front pipe only). Do a touch up run with exhaust on after tuning, Get a better exhaust if you see a massive power drop with exhaust. If above procedures are followed you will definitely get the desired power goal. Also people with RB25det R33s. pay attention to those 20 years old valve springs and valves. Mine were all chewed out and worped possibly from valve float. That will act as boost leak, causing lose in power and response. Recommend stronger valve springs. Order, dispatch and mechanic services: All turbochargers are specifically built to suit customer's orders. We need in average 3 to 5 working days to have the order complete. We normally send with Australian post registered post with insurance, which generally takes 3 working days for delivery. We have 2x clients workshops in Melbourne which can carry out the installation service for $200, or onsite service for $250. For tuning, I personally use and recommend Status, and Dr.drift. ECU: For R33 RB25det I've personally used Adaptronic Plugin ECU and highly recommend it. The RRP price on this mode is $1499, We offer $400 discount of total if it is purchased with any of our turbochargers or high flow / rebuild service. Discount also apply for any customers whom is currently owning one of our built or high flowed turbochargers. Please check ECU features, results and discussion in page 113~116.
  4. Hey guys So I am currently on my P plates in QLD and am driving an R33 Rb20de. I would like to know if it is possible to convert from NA to turbo whilst still remaining P plate legal and if so how to go about doing it. Any help is greatly appreciated. thx
  5. mr_rbman

    Chasing a pair of damaged / failed Garrett 2860-5 turbos. If their not failed they need to be 'failed' pricing.
  6. So I am making this post as I've searched the forums, and the posts I could find aren't fitting my personal situation. I've already got all the supporting mods for my turbo upgrade, Front facing Plenum, 6boost turbo/ exhaust manifold with T3 fitting, 1000cc injectors, walbro 460 fuel pump, all the gaskets you could dream for, electric boost controller (Already in), Blitz Nur Spec R exhaust, and a front mount intercooler. I've tried making another post elsewhere on these forums reguarding a turbo upgrade, and said post got closed as apparently it's totally fine for people to insult a build, but it's not ok for people to make a new post on a forums, asking for help to suit their situation. My build is unique to 99% of builds on here, I am getting all my modifications engineered and permitted accordingly. I'll be installing all the mods myself, making sure they all apply to the legal standards (Plumbing back to exhaust, emissions) and then I'll be paying an engineer to get it certified. For the turbo upgrade, I am wanting a minimum of 350HP, but I'm looking at around 400- 450HP. The turbo that I require will have to be with a T3 housing (I know garrett give the option for a lot of their turbos to suit multiple fittings). I have no experience with turbos at all, as my skyline is the first performance car I've owned. If someone could give some serious suggestions, someone who knows what they're talking about when it comes to cars, as to what Turbo is good, and what to avoid, that would be amazing. Also, forgot to mention, but I want this turbo for street performance, and a bit of track time, possibly drifting every now and then on track, so I'm not 100%, but I think that would mean I need a responsive turbo with high boost at low RPM? Cheers!
  7. Hey guys i just recently got my r34 manual converted. since i have had it back it has been running slugish (worse then my NA r34). so while driving it the boost gauge goes up in boost and you can hear the turbo spooling but it feels like i am not getting any boost at all! the part that seems weird is that it seemed to drive normal when cold? (felt like it had boost. i didnt test that to ghard though since the car was cold) any help would be much appreciated, thank you
  8. Hi guys - Apologies if this is the wrong section So recently had my R34 GTT tuned running an RB25DET neo. Tuner said that at around 5000rpm he can hear a noise when listening in through the knock sensor. The ECU is picking it up as knock sometimes but it isn't actually knock. He said its almost a metal-on-metal sounding noise, and it starts at 5000rpm and dissapears at 5.5 every single time. Cannot hear it from outside the car, only when listening in through the knock sensor. I'm hoping for some help in narrowing down what it is. My dyno numbers are perfectly fine (will upload the sheet later tonight), power curve is stable etc. He believes it is something harmonic related as it is only at that RPM range. Have done runs with VCT disabled and it still makes it so that is not the culprit. He has suggested to me that it may be the intake cam gear although he's very rarely heard of them failing. My issue is they are a stupidly expensive part to replace for a "potential" fix. His other suggestions have been potential scoring on the cam lobes. Have you guys got any input on this? So noise starts every single run at basically dead on 5000rpm, stops at 5500. Almost a really fast " drdrdrdrdrdr" noise (best way i can describe it). One other thought by him was potentially a lifter. Unsure if this matters, but the car's running an S2 RB25DET neo, nistune ECU, 14psi boost, front mount, full exhaust, cold air intake. Car is also only 104,000kms. Car still drives perfectly fine and would have had no idea anything was making noise had he not told me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  9. I have a rb25 r33 it currently has blue spit fire coil pack, 3 stage e boost control , 3 inch exasught all the way through, pod filter and a nistune ecu I’m currently wanting to upgrade the turbo intake manifold fuel pump injectors and a tune what would you recommend as in terms of brand and turbos have 4 k to spend
  10. R33 GTR 1000HP Parts Hi guys, parting out my R33 GTR 1000HP street car. Basically everything is up for sale. All parts have done no more than 5000 street kms and dyno runs. Reason for selling as ive been EPA'd.. again and i keep losing my license, and being a mobile mechanic is shit with no license lol Have deposits on os88 gearbox and clutch Also deposit on RB30 3.2 nitto bottom end and 26 head, if it falls through will advertise. Parts for sale: Plazmaman GTR intercooler, 4 inch outlets and 100mm. Good for 1500hp. Asking $1200 ono 1300hp CDI ignition system kit from hi octane, which includes everything, Asking $2000 ono Motec M800 Asking $3000 ono ARC 4 inch titanium exhaust from dump, Asking $2500 ono HKS oil cooler kit, Asking $1000 ono Hypertune single throttle body intake manifold and 100mm hypertune throttle body, Asking $2000 ono Genuine ID2000cc injectors x6 and fuel rail, Asking $1250 ono Two 45mm turbosmart gates with 14psi springs, Asking $600 ono Custom made 26/30 twin pulse, twin gate exhaust maifold to suit gtx4294 top mount, Asking $600 ono GTX4294 with 1.01 rear housing, Asking $1500 ono Two 044 fuel pumps and surge tank, Asking $300 Ross balancer and trigger kit, Asking $750 ono Quiafe front and rear differentials, Asking $3000 ono Tein Coilovers, Asking $1000 ono Probs a few more items to mention that ive forgotten, if you want photo's or have any questions, feel free to contact me on here or my mobile, 0423 756 123 All parts still in car, will remove all most likely this weekend. Cheers, Christian
  11. After doing a 5 stud conversion + brake upgrade (r33 gtst brakes) onto my r33 gts I cant get my brake pedal to feel firm. The car used to have ABS but everything has been removed including the sensors on the calipers. I have compared my brake setup to another non abs r33 and its exactly the same so theres no reason it shouldn't work. Ive already had a mechanic look at it, tried to bleed it, but still no improvement on the brakes. Besides that I have also tried to bleed the brakes and master cylinder using the brake pedal and a hand pump vacuum bleeder. With the car not running, the first 20% of the brake pedal has play, and the last 80% of the brake pedal feeling solid as. With the car running, is literally the opposite, 80% of the brake pedal is useless and the last 20% is when the brakes stop the car although i haven't tested it at speed higher than 30km/h. Theres no leaks, every connection is tight, fresh brake fluid etc. The brake booster is also from a turbo r33 to match the turbo gtst brakes. Could the master cylinder be broken? is there a way to test if it is? the brake booster and master cylinder both worked before installing them. I read on a forum from someone who did the same brake upgrade, same car, and had to upgrade to brake booster and master cylinder cause the brake pedal always felt soft/spongy. But there was no information on the upgrades he made? Any help would be appreciated!
  12. Dominic32gtr

    Wanting to upgrade my stock turbos on 1990 r32 gtr and want some opions
  13. So recently i saw some ads advertising P plate legal "ADM S15 TURBOS" running 320hp+ on their Sr20DETs, i am wondering how is that even p plate legal? Can someone explain how? i know "ADM" models came with different turbos which made them a bit slower allowing for them to be p plate legal, but do you need an exemption? can you just hop into a S15 and just drive off? what are the process of "LEGALLY" allowing a p plater to drive the s15. is this for NSW only? what are the state of ADM s15 in QLD? Thanks, (am not looking for any hate, i was just wondering how these p platers are driving these cars).
  14. Hi all, There have been all kinds of conversations on and off SAU about single turbo options for RBs (and other engines really) in the current state of the game and while I've not seen any evidence of compressor maps being inaccurate, different manufacturers use different ways to normalise and present the numbers, different cut off points, and different ways of estimating hp from compressor flow which can result in people expecting too much or too little from their turbos. I've decided to semi-roughly translate it all into an even measure and shove what I consider "the most relevant" turbos for most people who would be talking about turbo choices in here, and split the compressor flow potential they have at 20psi, 25psi and 30psi - using "65% compressor efficiency" as a cut off. Those are fairly familiar and reasonable reference points, and as you exceed 65% I view it that it's where the intercooler and hotside are starting to have to carry disproportionately more of the load to keep things happier. This is the "you're pushing it" zone, imho - even if it's not really maxing the turbo out. It seems to be a reasonable way of gauging them on a similar scale if you're going to being matching the turbos for real world performance. It may not be PERFECT but I think it gives enough of an idea of how they may compare, I'm pretty sure all these turbos have hot side options which are pretty close to supporting the exhaust flow needed these days - give or take, but some of the numbers here may explain a few interesting things seen.. Hope it's vaguely interesting reading Turbo 20psi 25psi 30psi GTX3071R 50 52 53 GTX3071R Gen2 51 52 53 EFR7670 53 56 57 S257SX-E 54 57 60 G25 660 55 60 59 GTX3076R 59 61 62 Gen2 GTX3076R 59 61 62 GTW3476R 60 64 67 EFR8374 65 68 69 GTX3582R 70 72 74 Gen2 GTX3582R 70 75 77 EFR9180 74 79 84 GTX3584RS 75 80 84
  15. Hi, I'm after a quality alternator to bolt onto my turbo R33. Needs to be direct factory replacement please. Located Ballarat, Victoria Thanks, Tim
  16. RB20 Turbo selection (twinscroll housing advice) Hey all, To start, this is not going to be another "i just bought my mates R32 and it had stock turbo can you plz reccomend an ebay turbo for 300kw maxx plz thanks". I started this topic because i couldn't find anyone or anything on this forum close to what i want even after searching and reading the whole "RB20 turbo upgrade" thread. The basic info/Supporting mods > Completely standard RB20DET Silvertop (with the possibility of doing valve springs) > NIStune with flexfuel setup > ID1000's > 3" straight through exhaust > 45mm divided turbosmart hypergate > RB26 inlet manifold including ITB's > Hypertune FMIC > Gibson Motorsport GTS-R T3 twinscroll exhaust manifold This is in an S15 that will be my (secondary) daily and 90% drift 10% circuit car. My goal is to make a minimum of 230ish kw on 98 octane fuel, while keeping everything as responsive as possible. Yes i know that responsive and RB20 don't belong in the same sentence and i know that it's never going to happen, but anyway. There is plenty of results all over the net for highflows/GT2871/TD06 in 18 and 20G formats, but these are all using either the stock manifold or various brands of high/low mount open T3 manifolds and standard intake piping with generic intercoolers and long piping. Basically nobody as far as i can tell has ever gone to the lengths that i have to give the RB20 as much of a fighting chance at making some decent power as early as possible. So my question is what turbo setup should i use. Keeping note that any turbo i will run will have a twinscroll manifold and twinscroll rear housing to try and keep as much response as possible. I can use something like a GTX2860/63/67/71 or bump up a frame size to a GTX3067 (Note: 67 no 76). Originally i had canned the GT28 series idea because i was under the impression that there wasn't any twinscroll T3 housings available for GT28's so i had basically accepted that i was going to have to run a GT30. But i found that ATP have this housing available that is exactly what i need. So now knowing that i am back to the drawing board to try and decide what best suits my application. Things of note, 220-230kw minimum on 98 octane would be ideal, but i will be running E85 and a 45mm turbosmart hypergate off the exhaust manifold and i am happy to run big boost (20-25psi) on ethanol to make some decent numbers. Hopefully the 45mm gate should relieve some pressure on the turbo if i decide to go with a GT28 based setup. GTX2860/63/67 with twinscroll T3 .82 A/R housing or GTX3067 with twinscroll .83 A/R housing. Hopefully someone like Lithium/disco/darren can chime in and give me some insight into roughly what power these turbos are capable of on an RB20 that has been given every chance haha. Thanks (INB4 why the fark is some idiot wasting his time and money on an RB20)
  17. Hello all, I know this topic has been beaten to death, however many of these threads lead to more questions than answers. As far as single turbo water cooled applications, what return water lines need to be retained. The water feeds are self explanatory, and the returns are too to a certain extent, my questions are mostly focused on the returns on the intake side at the rear of the block. I have attached pictures below from a thread that asks a similar question, however the answers are of a great range and indecisive. My question is, do both water returns under the plenum need to be retained? As far as my knowledge is concerned, the pictures below of the water returns under the plenum, have the arrows showing the wrong direction of water flow. As far as I know, the metal tube under the plenum that goes to the heater core, provides water flow into the thermostat housing, not away from the thermostat housing. The other picture, of the engine outlet, leading toward the radiator inlet, looks to have the correct arrow showing flow showing the turbo water return. The front return makes sense when the thermostat is open ONLY, as that is when water flows through that outlet. The rear return under the plenum that connects the water tube that connects to the thermostat housing, also makes sense, as it provides flow when the thermostat is closed. The one that confuses me is the one that connects to that water chamber connected to the intake plenum. This fitting seems redundant to the one on the front of the intake plenum area. Is that connection "needed" and what is its fiction?
  18. Hi guys, Do R33 spec 1 turbo (rb25det) coilpacks fit a spec 1 non turbo(rb25de)? I brought a non turbo R33 recently and it feels really sluggish, like it's in limpmode. My brothers got some spare coilpacks for his turbo R33 so was thinking of trying them out and see if they help... It's not missfiring and sounds super healthy but is hesitant for a few seconds on start up and cuts out sometimes unless I give it a quick rev. Once the car is started though, it drives smooth but it's really slow like it's in limpmode. There is hardly any power. I serviced it a few weeks back and it gained loads of power back. Replaced cone filter with stock airbox and a few days later it lost power again.
  19. Hey guys I have a coolant leak and i think it's coming behind the turbo shell but i am not sure what the cause of it is. Think i have to take the turbo out to check the gasket or something but i got to wait for my mechanic friend till friday to help me with it. Anyone have any idea's and tips to diagnose this? "Video 1" You will see the water leaking from somewhere behind the turbo shell i think. It was this morning. End up not taking my car to work because i don't think i'd be a great idea driving it now while water is leaking like this "Video 2" was when it happend, i recorded late but you can hear the "tsssssssss" from the water coming out, but after 30minutes it stopped and i filled the radiator with more water to go put the car home. Ignore the language tho, uploaded the video just so u can hear the sound nextday.mp4 night.mp4
  20. Apologies, I know there are probably loads of threads about this. A search brings up a stack of results but nothing that specifically answering my question. My stock turbo popped on my R33 GTST (I think its series 1.5). There is slight shaft play and the impeller is touching the housing. Question is, should I recon it and have the ceramic wheel replaced with a metal one or change the turbo? My end goal is 400-450hp. The plan was to do injectors, MAF etc. before the turbo but i have to change that around now. If I change the turbo, what are the suggestions for something which will be a straight swop or close to it? The car is basically stock with just a milteck exhaust.
  21. Has any one had any success using these mamba kits ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MAMBA-Nissan-RB26DETT-SKYLINE-GTR-Twin-Turbo-Oil-Water-Line-Kit-Garrett-GT28R-/172749420315 Any recommendations ? Thanks no, i will not go big single just yet
  22. I got my exhaust manifold resurfaced so I thought I'd make a video of the removal process. Let me know if it's good or sh#t. I'm no mechanic or expert in RB's (or any motors), I just use google and use my mechanical mind... Tutorial was done on my 1998 R34 GTT RB25Det Neo (Hypergear Highflow turbo with stock exhaust manifold).
  23. OK so turbod my r34 Rb25de neo car is half tuned as turbo blew and spent all my money on a new one haha OK so I'm not happy with the knock levels bad timing set 15btdc have set all timing in map to low but so bloody hard trying to get power without knock the load timing is hurting my brain haha most of my map I set to 18 load and rpm and upd injectors Correction from 1000 to 1400 barley any knock but just all feels crap so was wondering if anyone had a pic of there maps I can copy just for a base start for rb25+t 5-10psi and maybe injector map thanks people R33 5speed gearbox conversion R33 rebuilt turbo R33 turbo manifold Gtt injectors R32gtst4det fuel pump Power FC ecu and controller Big front mount cooler Turbo smart bleed valve New 3"pipe decat and r32 custom dump R34na 02sensor R34 na pink label afm ..
  24. For sale brand new 7275 gen2 1200 HP t4 .96 rear and turbosmart pro gate 50mm all brand new never used also comes with v band flange and clamp for turbo $4000 0423321565
  25. Hi, are there any differences between the MAFs on non turbo and turbo skylines (RB25DE VS RB25DET)??? I suspect the MAF is knackered on my non turbo R33. Also what's difference between the green and pink labelled ones? I've tried searching but can't find much info and a straight answer. I recently brought the car and it has some major performance issues. I know non turbos are slow but mine is ridicilous. Honestly, it feels like it's got 80bhp max and that a 1liter Toyota Yaris would easily beat it lol. I've also been in a stock 2liter RB20e R33 with an exhaust and even that was twice as fast... It was parked up for a while so I serviced the car, changed oil, oil/fuel filter and sparkplugs. It gained alot of power but not as good as it should be. It had a broken cone filter fitted so I replaced it with a stock airbox+ filter but the car has lost power again but saw that the MAF was broken and the top has been taped up to hold it together. I pulled some of the tape off earlier so suspect that may be the cause and since then, it idles abit rough sometimes aswell but a little tap to bring to revs up sorts it out. Also the car has massive 3.5" straight though exhaust which I'm sure it's making me lose a huge amount of power. Am I right in believing that the ideal size should be 2.25 or 2.5" or wouldn't the exhaust make much difference?