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Found 567 results

  1. So recently i saw some ads advertising P plate legal "ADM S15 TURBOS" running 320hp+ on their Sr20DETs, i am wondering how is that even p plate legal? Can someone explain how? i know "ADM" models came with different turbos which made them a bit slower allowing for them to be p plate legal, but do you need an exemption? can you just hop into a S15 and just drive off? what are the process of "LEGALLY" allowing a p plater to drive the s15. is this for NSW only? what are the state of ADM s15 in QLD? Thanks, (am not looking for any hate, i was just wondering how these p platers are driving these cars).
  2. Hi all, There have been all kinds of conversations on and off SAU about single turbo options for RBs (and other engines really) in the current state of the game and while I've not seen any evidence of compressor maps being inaccurate, different manufacturers use different ways to normalise and present the numbers, different cut off points, and different ways of estimating hp from compressor flow which can result in people expecting too much or too little from their turbos. I've decided to semi-roughly translate it all into an even measure and shove what I consider "the most relevant" turbos for most people who would be talking about turbo choices in here, and split the compressor flow potential they have at 20psi, 25psi and 30psi - using "65% compressor efficiency" as a cut off. Those are fairly familiar and reasonable reference points, and as you exceed 65% I view it that it's where the intercooler and hotside are starting to have to carry disproportionately more of the load to keep things happier. This is the "you're pushing it" zone, imho - even if it's not really maxing the turbo out. It seems to be a reasonable way of gauging them on a similar scale if you're going to being matching the turbos for real world performance. It may not be PERFECT but I think it gives enough of an idea of how they may compare, I'm pretty sure all these turbos have hot side options which are pretty close to supporting the exhaust flow needed these days - give or take, but some of the numbers here may explain a few interesting things seen.. Hope it's vaguely interesting reading Turbo 20psi 25psi 30psi GTX3071R 50 52 53 GTX3071R Gen2 51 52 53 EFR7670 53 56 57 S257SX-E 54 57 60 G25 660 55 60 59 GTX3076R 59 61 62 Gen2 GTX3076R 59 61 62 GTW3476R 60 64 67 EFR8374 65 68 69 GTX3582R 70 72 74 Gen2 GTX3582R 70 75 77 EFR9180 74 79 84 GTX3584RS 75 80 84
  3. Full ad: http://bit.ly/4doorad – Photos: http://bit.ly/4doorpics ^^^ If viewing on the SAU app please tap the image and select View in Gallery Note: This is a replacement thread for the original EOI: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469494-eoi-the-ultimate-r34-family-hybrid-for-street-and-track-275rwkw/ ... Asking $19,500 with some exclusions, please see the full ad. PM for further details.
  4. Hi, I'm after a quality alternator to bolt onto my turbo R33. Needs to be direct factory replacement please. Located Ballarat, Victoria Thanks, Tim
  5. RB20 Turbo selection (twinscroll housing advice) Hey all, To start, this is not going to be another "i just bought my mates R32 and it had stock turbo can you plz reccomend an ebay turbo for 300kw maxx plz thanks". I started this topic because i couldn't find anyone or anything on this forum close to what i want even after searching and reading the whole "RB20 turbo upgrade" thread. The basic info/Supporting mods > Completely standard RB20DET Silvertop (with the possibility of doing valve springs) > NIStune with flexfuel setup > ID1000's > 3" straight through exhaust > 45mm divided turbosmart hypergate > RB26 inlet manifold including ITB's > Hypertune FMIC > Gibson Motorsport GTS-R T3 twinscroll exhaust manifold This is in an S15 that will be my (secondary) daily and 90% drift 10% circuit car. My goal is to make a minimum of 230ish kw on 98 octane fuel, while keeping everything as responsive as possible. Yes i know that responsive and RB20 don't belong in the same sentence and i know that it's never going to happen, but anyway. There is plenty of results all over the net for highflows/GT2871/TD06 in 18 and 20G formats, but these are all using either the stock manifold or various brands of high/low mount open T3 manifolds and standard intake piping with generic intercoolers and long piping. Basically nobody as far as i can tell has ever gone to the lengths that i have to give the RB20 as much of a fighting chance at making some decent power as early as possible. So my question is what turbo setup should i use. Keeping note that any turbo i will run will have a twinscroll manifold and twinscroll rear housing to try and keep as much response as possible. I can use something like a GTX2860/63/67/71 or bump up a frame size to a GTX3067 (Note: 67 no 76). Originally i had canned the GT28 series idea because i was under the impression that there wasn't any twinscroll T3 housings available for GT28's so i had basically accepted that i was going to have to run a GT30. But i found that ATP have this housing available that is exactly what i need. So now knowing that i am back to the drawing board to try and decide what best suits my application. Things of note, 220-230kw minimum on 98 octane would be ideal, but i will be running E85 and a 45mm turbosmart hypergate off the exhaust manifold and i am happy to run big boost (20-25psi) on ethanol to make some decent numbers. Hopefully the 45mm gate should relieve some pressure on the turbo if i decide to go with a GT28 based setup. GTX2860/63/67 with twinscroll T3 .82 A/R housing or GTX3067 with twinscroll .83 A/R housing. Hopefully someone like Lithium/disco/darren can chime in and give me some insight into roughly what power these turbos are capable of on an RB20 that has been given every chance haha. Thanks (INB4 why the fark is some idiot wasting his time and money on an RB20)
  6. Hello all, I know this topic has been beaten to death, however many of these threads lead to more questions than answers. As far as single turbo water cooled applications, what return water lines need to be retained. The water feeds are self explanatory, and the returns are too to a certain extent, my questions are mostly focused on the returns on the intake side at the rear of the block. I have attached pictures below from a thread that asks a similar question, however the answers are of a great range and indecisive. My question is, do both water returns under the plenum need to be retained? As far as my knowledge is concerned, the pictures below of the water returns under the plenum, have the arrows showing the wrong direction of water flow. As far as I know, the metal tube under the plenum that goes to the heater core, provides water flow into the thermostat housing, not away from the thermostat housing. The other picture, of the engine outlet, leading toward the radiator inlet, looks to have the correct arrow showing flow showing the turbo water return. The front return makes sense when the thermostat is open ONLY, as that is when water flows through that outlet. The rear return under the plenum that connects the water tube that connects to the thermostat housing, also makes sense, as it provides flow when the thermostat is closed. The one that confuses me is the one that connects to that water chamber connected to the intake plenum. This fitting seems redundant to the one on the front of the intake plenum area. Is that connection "needed" and what is its fiction?
  7. Hi guys, Do R33 spec 1 turbo (rb25det) coilpacks fit a spec 1 non turbo(rb25de)? I brought a non turbo R33 recently and it feels really sluggish, like it's in limpmode. My brothers got some spare coilpacks for his turbo R33 so was thinking of trying them out and see if they help... It's not missfiring and sounds super healthy but is hesitant for a few seconds on start up and cuts out sometimes unless I give it a quick rev. Once the car is started though, it drives smooth but it's really slow like it's in limpmode. There is hardly any power. I serviced it a few weeks back and it gained loads of power back. Replaced cone filter with stock airbox and a few days later it lost power again.
  8. Hey guys I have a coolant leak and i think it's coming behind the turbo shell but i am not sure what the cause of it is. Think i have to take the turbo out to check the gasket or something but i got to wait for my mechanic friend till friday to help me with it. Anyone have any idea's and tips to diagnose this? "Video 1" You will see the water leaking from somewhere behind the turbo shell i think. It was this morning. End up not taking my car to work because i don't think i'd be a great idea driving it now while water is leaking like this "Video 2" was when it happend, i recorded late but you can hear the "tsssssssss" from the water coming out, but after 30minutes it stopped and i filled the radiator with more water to go put the car home. Ignore the language tho, uploaded the video just so u can hear the sound nextday.mp4 night.mp4
  9. Apologies, I know there are probably loads of threads about this. A search brings up a stack of results but nothing that specifically answering my question. My stock turbo popped on my R33 GTST (I think its series 1.5). There is slight shaft play and the impeller is touching the housing. Question is, should I recon it and have the ceramic wheel replaced with a metal one or change the turbo? My end goal is 400-450hp. The plan was to do injectors, MAF etc. before the turbo but i have to change that around now. If I change the turbo, what are the suggestions for something which will be a straight swop or close to it? The car is basically stock with just a milteck exhaust.
  10. Has any one had any success using these mamba kits ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MAMBA-Nissan-RB26DETT-SKYLINE-GTR-Twin-Turbo-Oil-Water-Line-Kit-Garrett-GT28R-/172749420315 Any recommendations ? Thanks no, i will not go big single just yet
  11. I got my exhaust manifold resurfaced so I thought I'd make a video of the removal process. Let me know if it's good or sh#t. I'm no mechanic or expert in RB's (or any motors), I just use google and use my mechanical mind... Tutorial was done on my 1998 R34 GTT RB25Det Neo (Hypergear Highflow turbo with stock exhaust manifold).
  12. OK so turbod my r34 Rb25de neo car is half tuned as turbo blew and spent all my money on a new one haha OK so I'm not happy with the knock levels bad timing set 15btdc have set all timing in map to low but so bloody hard trying to get power without knock the load timing is hurting my brain haha most of my map I set to 18 load and rpm and upd injectors Correction from 1000 to 1400 barley any knock but just all feels crap so was wondering if anyone had a pic of there maps I can copy just for a base start for rb25+t 5-10psi and maybe injector map thanks people R33 5speed gearbox conversion R33 rebuilt turbo R33 turbo manifold Gtt injectors R32gtst4det fuel pump Power FC ecu and controller Big front mount cooler Turbo smart bleed valve New 3"pipe decat and r32 custom dump R34na 02sensor R34 na pink label afm ..
  13. If the page links doesn't work, please manually enter the page number into URL for the corresponding page. This post was updated on: 01/06/2017: This thread is here providing information on our high flowed or built turbos as well as installation and trouble shooting. I'm happy to help or assist with every one who is currently using or looking to purchase our products or services. Brief Introduction about our selves: We are Australian based turbocharger manufacture in Melbourne, We worked with experienced and skilled local engineers to produce our goods and we've been doing that since Oct 2007. We constantly update our production turbochargers and will do our best deliver value to our customers. My name is Stao you can PM or contact 0413457185 if any assistance is required. For our High flowed RB25 Turbos, they comes in 21U or OP6 from factory. The 21U rear housings are smaller can capable of 430HP after high flowing, and larger OP6 are capable of doing around 460HP. PU high flow option is available for any one chasing for 450 to 500HP. They are built with a larger .82 internally gated turbine housing with Nissan OEM bolton pattern, braided oil feeding line and a high pressure actuator. Below is the Rb25det Hitach turbo high flow catalog with few dyno sheets. ATR43SS is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based with OEM dump pipe pattern. This series is specifically engineered for speed with smooth street driving ability. ATR43 is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based comes in .63 and .82 turbine housing with OEM dump pipe pattern. Power is rated from 450HP to 600HP depends on profile chosen. Initial release date: 24/08/2009: We also carry out turbocharger repairs, housing/CHRA modifications and high flow services for All Garrett, HKS, Mitsubishi, Toyota, KKK and Made in China turbochargers. Do feel free to PM / contact us for free assistance. Important Installation Notes for RB2xdet Highflowed and PU units: Sleeve bearing turbochargers requires higher volume of oil flow, are sold with 50cm long braided oil feeding line line that replaces the standard oil restrictor in side factory oil lines, 12mm benjo bolt, and a M12x1.25mm speed flow adaptor. The adaptor goes onto the engine block, benjo bolts goes into the bearing housing with hollow screw supplied. 3x copper washers are required during installation, Which we can supply them for $9 additional or can be purchased at local auto stores. Factory water lines: T3x bearing housing used are 3mms shorter then OEM Hitachi's bearing housings. Means water lines needs to be very slightly bent / forced backwards. Stock actuator: We normally modify the factory actuator's fitting bracket allowing it for a bit of preloading. The actuator bracket bolt wholes has to be filed 5mms towards the turbine housing if not received with the turbo or getting fitted by others. Once done it can be adjust and pre-load ensuring the waste gate is 100% shut. For PU high flowed and ATR43 units with larger Diameter turbine housings, the engine side water line needs to be slightly bent / altered around the housing area. Installing ATR43 turbocharger: ATR43 units generally runs on a round 3inches inlet and round 2 inches out let. It is highly recommended to run a metal intake pipe. How ever if you wish to bolton to stock gears you need: 1x 3inch straight hose, 1x 2.5inch metal sleeve, 1x 2inches 90 degrees hose, 1x 2inches metal sleeve. We can supply all those parts for $100 extra. Tip for a easy installation would be removing the actuator with bracket pre-installation, that would allow lot more room for your tools to reach the manifold studs, and install the actuator and bracket back on after the rest of the installation is complete. Make sure the actuator is preloaded by roughly 3mms. Since larger turbine housings are used, due to larger physical size most of them would be taller then stock pushing the exhaust back by roughly 15mms. Most cars would be running an aftermarket exhausts, depending on the angle of the pre-made dump / front pipe, check the clearance between that to the Air-con water drain pipe. If fouls, simply by pulling it back with zip ties and secure it on the chassis. ATR43Gx/SS2 DIY with photos ATR43SS1xx DIY with photos and video Easy Induction pipes: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-78 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-89 Couple of extremely important factors: 1. After turbo installation do check pressure leaks ( I can make you a simple plug with a hose nipple for $50). Turbo will not perform if there are leaks. 2. Most of our turbos are installed with a 18psi high pressure actuator. by pass all boost controlling devices on test run, Boost gain from EBC based on stock actuator will cause massive boost creep. 3. Make sure the car's got a at least 3inch metal induction pipe with pod filter. Do not run those metal stuffed stock intake pipe. 4. An good exhaust system should restrict no more then 10KWs (My HKS silent power made 3KWs restrictions on a 316rwkws application). So Dyno tune with cat and exhaust dropped, (front pipe only). Do a touch up run with exhaust on after tuning, Get a better exhaust if you see a massive power drop with exhaust. If above procedures are followed you will definitely get the desired power goal. Also people with RB25det R33s. pay attention to those 20 years old valve springs and valves. Mine were all chewed out and worped possibly from valve float. That will act as boost leak, causing lose in power and response. Recommend stronger valve springs. Order, dispatch and mechanic services: All turbochargers are specifically built to suit customer's orders. We need in average 3 to 5 working days to have the order complete. We normally send with Australian post registered post with insurance, which generally takes 3 working days for delivery. We have 2x clients workshops in Melbourne which can carry out the installation service for $200, or onsite service for $250. For tuning, I personally use and recommend Status, and Dr.drift. ECU: For R33 RB25det I've personally used Adaptronic Plugin ECU and highly recommend it. The RRP price on this mode is $1499, We offer $400 discount of total if it is purchased with any of our turbochargers or high flow / rebuild service. Discount also apply for any customers whom is currently owning one of our built or high flowed turbochargers. Please check ECU features, results and discussion in page 113~116.
  14. For sale brand new 7275 gen2 1200 HP t4 .96 rear and turbosmart pro gate 50mm all brand new never used also comes with v band flange and clamp for turbo $4000 0423321565
  15. Hi, are there any differences between the MAFs on non turbo and turbo skylines (RB25DE VS RB25DET)??? I suspect the MAF is knackered on my non turbo R33. Also what's difference between the green and pink labelled ones? I've tried searching but can't find much info and a straight answer. I recently brought the car and it has some major performance issues. I know non turbos are slow but mine is ridicilous. Honestly, it feels like it's got 80bhp max and that a 1liter Toyota Yaris would easily beat it lol. I've also been in a stock 2liter RB20e R33 with an exhaust and even that was twice as fast... It was parked up for a while so I serviced the car, changed oil, oil/fuel filter and sparkplugs. It gained alot of power but not as good as it should be. It had a broken cone filter fitted so I replaced it with a stock airbox+ filter but the car has lost power again but saw that the MAF was broken and the top has been taped up to hold it together. I pulled some of the tape off earlier so suspect that may be the cause and since then, it idles abit rough sometimes aswell but a little tap to bring to revs up sorts it out. Also the car has massive 3.5" straight though exhaust which I'm sure it's making me lose a huge amount of power. Am I right in believing that the ideal size should be 2.25 or 2.5" or wouldn't the exhaust make much difference?
  16. S3 silhouette

    Hi there first skyline owner here it's a 1989 series 3 silhouette with turbod rb30. It has a high mount t3/t4 turbo at moment screamer pipe with 60 mm external waste gate, intercooler, I'm bout to install 550cc injectors and am looking around at after market ecu as only have vl turbo ecu at the moment any info on ideas of what would suit me would be good. Oh only planning on 10 to 12 psi.. for now.. cheers
  17. R34 rocket bunny sedan

    rb25de+t

    OK so need some help please people just turbod my na r34 and am checking if what it's doing is OK before my tune on Thursday OK so I'll start with parts I'm running... And post problem last Rb25de neo R33 5speed gearbox conversion Was using rb25 one but think was near dead New rb25turbo hasn't arrived yet R33 turbo manifold Gtt injectors R32gtst4det fuel pump Power FC ecu stock gtt base tune atm Big front mount cooler Turbo smart bleed valve New 3"pipe decat and r32 custom dump R34na 02sensor R32gtst4det afm I wired in also tried 34 na one OK so my problem is it misses bad under boost only.. disconnect turbo runs sweet can this be my ign timing when boosting? Just want it all good and ready for my first tune as never had one what should I get done in the tune and what boost 5? And just get fuel/air and some timing pulled/retard etc...also haven't tried yet as my new turbo is on its way but the one I was using was blowing smoke and whining and no matter what it was stuck on 7-8 psi my hand controller wouldn't turn it down so waste gate? Over boost could've been the problem?
  18. Hi guys, I would like to move to a 6466 or maybe even bigger. I have a brand new Precision 6266 Gen 2. Comes with the .81 v-band in/out. Has zero miles, I will post some photos tomorrow or alternatively you can PM me and I can txt some through. Im on the western side of Brisbane near indooroopilly, pick up is welcome although I can also post. Unsure of what these are going for, open to reasonable offers. Cheers
  19. So I am making this post as I've searched the forums, and the posts I could find aren't fitting my personal situation. I've already got all the supporting mods for my turbo upgrade, Front facing Plenum, 6boost turbo/ exhaust manifold with T3 fitting, 1000cc injectors, walbro 460 fuel pump, all the gaskets you could dream for, electric boost controller (Already in), Blitz Nur Spec R exhaust, and a front mount intercooler. I've tried making another post elsewhere on these forums reguarding a turbo upgrade, and said post got closed as apparently it's totally fine for people to insult a build, but it's not ok for people to make a new post on a forums, asking for help to suit their situation. My build is unique to 99% of builds on here, I am getting all my modifications engineered and permitted accordingly. I'll be installing all the mods myself, making sure they all apply to the legal standards (Plumbing back to exhaust, emissions) and then I'll be paying an engineer to get it certified. For the turbo upgrade, I am wanting a minimum of 350HP, but I'm looking at around 400- 450HP. The turbo that I require will have to be with a T3 housing (I know garrett give the option for a lot of their turbos to suit multiple fittings). I have no experience with turbos at all, as my skyline is the first performance car I've owned. If someone could give some serious suggestions, someone who knows what they're talking about when it comes to cars, as to what Turbo is good, and what to avoid, that would be amazing. Also, forgot to mention, but I want this turbo for street performance, and a bit of track time, possibly drifting every now and then on track, so I'm not 100%, but I think that would mean I need a responsive turbo with high boost at low RPM? Cheers!
  20. R34 rocket bunny sedan

    Ok need help peeps about to turbo my r34 na rb25de running auto ecu just converted to Manuel can i use auto na ecu and piggyback a emanage ecu for timing fuel and air etc seen people saying auto box gives out etc as ecu for box is 1 aswell but im manuel now? Do i need a nistune or no? Stock boost gtt injecters 255pump etc ?
  21. Hi i was wandering if anyone knew the banjo bolt size off the turbo water outlets, i upgraded to a highflowed 45v2 from a standard 45v1 and the banjo bolts on 45v1 are bigger i bought some online of the size smaller and they were too small. plz help as im stuck.
  22. Have this Jasma exhaust. It's 3.25" into a hotdog then into twin 2.75" at the diff into the muffler I think the JASMA number came up with HKS. Is missing the flange for the cat. I can provide the flange. Super quiet exhaust. Is mild steel, but is in reasonably good condition for its age. Also $100 $100 pickup Wantirna/Briar HIll after hours and Box Hill during business hours. Call/Text 0432091444, can also send photos.
  23. my goal is to break 500whp yet still be a weekend driver What i have greedy FMIC Apexi power intake kit Tein coilovers and dampener kit 52mill radiator Parts list. Q45 Airflow meter $100-150 Plenum , fuel rail, throttle body $1000 (for engine clean up only minimal performance increase) Walbro 400LPH $200 ECU I have a haltech platinum Pro ecu kit, let me know if I should upgrade this to make 500hp (370rwkw) Injectors 1000cc $1000-$1100 Carbon clutch twin plate with flywheel $2500 (for $300-500 more but can handle upto 800 hp, if anyone gets a gtt to 800 please fill out your will) Camsharft poncam type b $700 Cam pullys $350 And the big one GT35R turbo kit $4200 Whiteline sway bars $700 any tips or advice or different products i should buy?
  24. PLEASE REQUEST MORE PICS IF GENUINELY INTERESTED I HAVE OVER 120 PICS OF THE BUILD + FINISHED PRODUCT I WILL ALSO ANSWER ANY QUESTION ASAP, WILL BE CHECKING EMAIL CONSTANTLY SO DONT HESITATE THIS CAR IS ALSO LISTED ON ALL COMMON CARSALE WEBSITES WITH MUCH MORE PICS... Carsales listing has about 65 pics Up for sale is my Pride and joy, an E85 Fueled 1996 M-Spec S2 R33 GTS-T with 145,000kms I have owned her for 4 years and have spent the last 12-18 months transforming the already 596hp beast into my ultimate reliable, easy to drive R33 ASKING $31999 ONO VIN: 6U9000ECR33113727 I Purchased her with 596hp on E85 and absolutely meticulously cared for... a solid build but it needed a few things. Faulting it were the typical hard to drive brass button clutch, grinding 5th gear, sticky throttle body, a few small tune faults and some minor cosmetic details. ( old steering wheel, no floor mats etc.) I wanted it perfect so I decided to strip it down and change a few things to my liking and as you will see below.. i got a bit carried away with my “quick” teardown and rebuild. Reason for regretful sale is I’m wanting to buy a house.. so its time for my labour of love to be passed on. The car has never been smoked in, it has never been parked outside.. Literally not been parked in the sun more than a hour since I’ve owned it. Never parked in shopping center car parks, never parked in the city, never driven to work etc. has been 100% a weekend car and has been only parked in my dry and safe garage hence the great condition paint, headlight lenses, interior and lack of even a tiny speck of rust or corrosion. The car has been cleaned and washed almost every time its driven (once or twice per fortnight). Has always been maintained with high quality products like Mothers and Meguiar’s The car has just been tuned at PIT’s by Matty Spry 30/5/2018, regarded as one of the best in the industry to work on a skyline. It made a reliable 599.99HP at the wheels @25PSI It would be fair to assume that every fast car has been built to be driven hard.. but not only has this car had very little Kms since rebuild but it has been very well cared for, I understand the stress that every part in the car Is put under at high boost and have always driven accordingly... it has never been skidded, thrashed or even redlined... the highest RPM the car will ever see under my ownership is by my tuner in a controlled environment, with that in mind Rev limiter is set to 7350 for safety but can obviously be raised if you choose My attitude with this car has always been “Do it right- Do it once” hence the 40k+ of parts used to get up to my standards (on a car that already had a lot spent on it by previous owner – (Probably in the order of 30-40k incl car) Everything I have touched is either already perfect or has been replaced with brand new parts. No stone left unturned, no corners cut. I have used nothing but the best parts and have spent hundreds of hours researching the best part or best method for the job, only Genuine Nissan or top brand Aftermarket parts have been used – eg. Can get an oil cooler for $100 but I got a $650 Japanese top quality unit, which has fluid pass through twice for extra cooling. Many many things on the car where I have spent MUCH more than necessary just for the peace of mind knowing it is built as strong, as reliable, as functional and as fast as it can be. You can rest assured that you are buying a car that isn’t just built to go fast.. its built to do it comfortably for a long time to come, without issue. You can also rest assured knowing that the person who built this car is a perfectionist who spent a lot of time and thought getting everything right, I don’t just bolt things on I look at every aspect of this particular job and how it interacts with every other part of the car to ensure the whole product at the end. I was once told there is 3 things of importance to car owners and you can only have 2… - Cheap, Fast and Reliable – and I have certainly opted for the latter 2 Engine has always been serviced every 2000Kms MAX, oil and filter - gearbox and diff were done every 5000kms (like everything else way over done for peace of mind), has just had brand new clutch, brake, diff, engine, gearbox and power steer fluids 30/5/18 Where items are marked NEW they have been a part of the recent rebuild and are all BRAND NEW parts – this process was completed on 4/6/2018 so all these parts have JUST been installed will have very minimal use and KM’s – all other parts were installed previously by either myself or previous owner, (the car has done about 7,000kms total since the previous owner built motor prior to me buying it… including the KMs I have done) so even parts that aren’t brand new have low Kms on them Due to the extent of modifications.. this car cannot be sold with a RWC, it will be de-registered on the day of sale, if purchaser is on gold coast or south brisbane im willing to deliver the car to you and remove plates once in your garage, I can provide details of the RWC certifier that I have always used for this car for an easy re-register $42540 in Receipts + $18000 I paid for the car Well over $42,000 in receipts (a 2” thick folder full of receipts will be supplied with the car aswell as over 125 pics of progress of the build and finished product - BYO USB), and as anybody who has ever built a car like this would know big ticket receipts are only a fraction of the money that’s been spent on her – also keep in mind I am quoting the prices I paid which is generally way below normal retail price Engine: Rebuild done by Troy at Arundel cylinder heads NEW $9000 Rebuild on a motor that already had $10k+ in it Block Decked Plateau Hone and bored Full Engine Balance and Blueprint NEW CP Forged Pistons 86.5mm 9.0:1 $1000 Kelford cams Balanced and plugged crank Nitto oil pump Forged Rods HKS cam gears NEW ACL Race Bearings $240 NEW All seals rubbers gaskets etc. NEW Japanese water pump $90 NEW Gates timing kit $250 NEW Tomei cam cap studs $325 ARP Studs NEW ATI Superdamper harmonic balancer $720 Genuine Greddy Intake Manifold $1000+ 1000cc ID injectors Splitfire coil packs Vipec ECU – $1800 - Just tuned at 599.99HP by Matty Spry at PITS gold coast - tune alone cost $2650… the two runs on the dyno sheet are at wastegate spring pressure @ 10PSI and 2nd is with elec boost control @ 25PSI NEW Raceworks 4 Bar Map sensor $180 NEW Clear Timing Cover $90 Custom Stainless catch can and power steer bottle Stainless vented coil pack cover K&N pod air filter Head: Port and polish on inlet and outlet bowl areas $560 Full head service incl adjust valve spring tensions/throat after putting in larger valves $720 NEW Oversized Stainless exhaust valves $280 NEW Oversized Stainless intake valves $306 NEW Seals $130 NEW MLSR 1.3mm head gasket $30 Large oil drain fitting with 5/8” oil/E85 resistant High temp hose to sump Turbo + Exhaust: NEW Garrett GTX3582 Vband Turbo With ATP Twin Scroll T4 1.06 AR Housing $3000 NEW Custom Twin Scroll T4 CRG Turbo manifold (chose this because of the amazingly unrestrictive merge collector welding) $1300 NEW Custom 3.5" Stainless Dump + Mid Pipe $1777 NEW Basalt Volcano Wrap on dump pipe – this is the best heat wrap around (75% overlap not minimum 25%) $80 NEW Kakimoto Racing Hyper Full Mega N1 3.5" Full Stainless Cat back Exhaust $1500 Twin Tial 40mm Wastegates Tial Blow Off Valve NEW Pro flow stainless braided turbo fittings and hoses $500 NEW High quality stainless T-bar Clamps used throughout boost/intercooler piping $300 NEW all silicone hoses used for boost, BOV, wastegates, boost controller etc, all with stainless worm drive clamps not cable ties NEW Innovate Wideband O2 sensor in dump pipe NEW MAC 4 port Electronic boost control $100 Spare exhaust bung located at top of dump pipe, to enable much better tuning Foil backed fiberglas heat wrapping on Turbo water feed as runs close to exhaust Oil drain from head and turbo run in specialty 250c oil/e85 resistant smooth bore hose to sump, then sleeved with 500c fiberglass and silicone coated sleeve for superb protection from exhaust Cooling: NEW HPC Ceramic coating on turbo manifold $935 NEW HPC Ceramic coating on turbo exhaust housing $282 M-Spec aftermarket alloy radiator NEW Mushimoto Dual Pass 25 row oil cooler and genuine braided lines + sandwich plate $650 (LIFETIME WARRANTY) ARE Large Front mount intercooler NEW All Radiator\Heater hoses replaced with silicone $100 Clutch: NEW 1000HP NPC 225mm Twin Carbonic Sprung center 5 puck Full Billet clutch $2700 - drives almost like a stock clutch, absolutely miles ahead of the brass button that was on the car when I bought it. Very little noise when pedal is pressed compared to other twin plate clutches. NEW NPC billet Flywheel (slightly lighter and rotational mass reduced by having most of the weight/mass closest to center) NEW OEM Nissan slave clutch cylinder $100 (consulted with NPC this is the best slave to suit twin plate clutch) NEW full fluid flush with Motyl RBF600 fluid $35 Gearbox: NEW Brand new OEM Genuine Nissan 5 speed manual gearbox shipped from Japan $3000 NEW genuine NISMO upgraded Gearbox Mount $150 NEW Nissan throw-out bearing supplied with box Fuel: NEW Speedflow 40 micron Billet + stainless fuel filter $190 Speedflow fuel regulator NEW Pro-Flow E85 Teflon lined stainless braided Hose and fittings $800 Plumbing from pumps have been done via 2 separate hardlines and are joined into 1 large braided line at the filter in engine bay. NEW EFLEX sensor installed ready for tuning on 98 octane through to e85 $100 Custom Stainless Surge tank in boot. Dual Bosch High flow pumps Chrome Fuel rail New 90mm Throttle body and cable $200 NEW genuine Nissan TPS $130 Brakes: NEW DBA T3 4000 series slotted rotors all round $652 NEW Remsa brake pads $150 NEW Brand New professional HPC “HSV red” Brake caliper coating $300 Labour to fully rebuild all brake calipers after being coated (new pistons, seals, clips etc) $530 NEW HEL Braided brake lines all round $180 Motul RBF600 full brake system fluid flush $200 (one of the best brake fluids available) Suspension: NEW Japanese Wheel bearings all round $ 1000 prefessionally installed NEW Whiteline adjustable Front and rear sway bars (22mm rear 24mm front) $600 NEW Whiteline Adjustable Swaybar links $300 Labour to install sway bars and adjust pre load $400 Driftworks Coil overs Car height is perfect balance of looks and performance, not so low its uncomfortable or bumpy around corners etc. Wheels and Tyres: 18" Enkei Rajin Wheels $1600 (very light and strong- look great too) Hankook Ventus RS3 tyre’s, one of the best street tyre’s, Super sticky in the dry and surprisingly good in the wet. $300+ ea Rear: 265/35/18 - Front: 235/40/18 Interior: GTR bucket seats – Very comfy and makes you feel one with the car, no sliding around on corners Custom Airbrushed Red console + dash facia and drivers door panel (smoke and skulls, nice and subtle though) NEW Genuine MOMO Hand Stitched Leather Steering Wheel $500 Feels very nice in hands, good grip (made in Italy) NEW MOMO Quick disconnect Steering wheel Boss NEW genuine Nismo 5 piece floor mat set $300 (very soft for bare foot driving) Kenwood Speakers 6" splits in front and 6x9"s in parcel shelf + Amp under passenger seat Sony touchscreen DVD Player/Stereo with AUX cord Matching black with red Stitching console armrest, handbrake and gearstick boot, black and red gear knob All white LED interior lights including blue instrument cluster lights Tinting Gauges: NEW Depo Japanese Stepper Gauge 4 in 1 "boost, Volt, Oil press, Oil temp" $250 NEW Innovate LC-2 Air Fuel Ratio gauge and wideband $320 Battery/ Wiring/ Electronics: Optima red top $375 (great cranking amps makes cold starts much easier) Blitz Turbo timer All wiring has been done neatly and properly (I am an electrician) all joins soldered and all cables wired to ECU have been labeled with non-fade printed labels for easy ID, corrugated tube used to protect cables where needed When motor was removed I wrapped all engine bay wiring/ looms in foil backed fiberglass heat wrap as an extra precaution Electric mirrors work well Sunroof works and seals well All lights, both interior and exterior work perfectly, as well as all wipers etc. Exterior: Paint is in great condition, just spent 2 entire days thoroughly polishing and waxing using mothers polish and carnauba wax 4/06/18 Panels are very straight, no dents Headlights and taillight lenses in great condition, also buffed and waxed NEW Genuine NISMO clear Side Indicators $70 Other: New spare Remote and key $80 Hicas Lock Mongoose Keyless alarm system and central locking GPS to phone security tracking system – allows you to track the car on a gps map, can even speak to the driver via car speakers or kill ignition all via your phone (never used it - installed by previous owner) Dashcam behind rearview mirror Fluids: Only ever used the Very best in fluids Engine: Joe Gibbs XP6 Racing Oil $35\L Gearbox: Redline lightweight Shockproof Gear oil Brakes+Clutch: Motul RBF600 $60/L Radiator: Wetter water Diff: Penrite LSD I will be completely honest and list every single fault I can think of on this car… NO SURPRISES: a small scratch in rear bar – nothing major the bolt on lip on front bar needs repairing on bottom edge, and paint on bottom of front bar isnt perfect – if you feel necessary a crack in rear of passenger headlight – has been removed, section sanded, cleaned with alcohol and fully sealed with 2 coats of JB weld (worlds strongest adhesive) – already fixed and sealed fully a small hole about the diameter of a AAA battery in the passenger seat - is not tearing or spreading there is some blemishing on drivers side mirror under glass – has not gotten worse in the 4 years ive had her A small bit of gutter rash on front passenger wheel - easy fixed, not very noticeable There is a small gear in fan box that needs repairing/replacing, causes a intermittent clicking sound for 5-10 secs when starting sometimes.. Tinting on rear windows isn’t perfect if I was to keep the car the next unnecessary things I would be looking at doing are: spend a few hundred on a really nice gear shift knob and replace suspension arms with upgraded tubular style ones new diff, although Nissan LSD’s are great already but as I said its not needed its just all that’s left unreplaced on the car IT IS ALMOST A BRAND NEW 2018 R33 NISSAN SKYLINE but better than Nissan ever built, it certainly drives like a brand new car with all drivetrain except diff brand spanking new All inspections by either yourself or your mechanic are welcome, please don’t hesitate to ask any questions I will answer them all as best I can – Or don’t hesitate to ask for more pics if interested, i have about 125 pics of car finished, as it was built, And motor internals, head etc as the motor was put together and much more
  25. Hey guys, Im in serious need of a rear fuel pressure regulator from a Series 2 RB20DET. Im more than willing to pay shipping from anywhere! Hope someone has something for me! Dan