LjB123

Bummer, i HATE electrical 😠

Currently have my engine out for a rebuild, and doing some other works on the rest of the car while it sits, like taking the steering wheel off to replace the clock spring and removing the wiring and button the previous owner wired in to the dash to make the horn work. My dash lights like the ABS, AIR BAG, HICAS, etc that come on when you turn accessories on as well as the climate control unit stay on when the ignition is off and key is taken out. Unfortunately Im not sure if this was happening before i pulled the steering wheel off and replaced the clock spring. Is this likely just something with the wiring that will be sorted when the engine is back in and everything wired up? Or could it be something from the wiring under the dash with the ignition? Thanks in advance

Ah man i got no idea how to read those haha theyre so confusing

Nah this has got to be nissan wiring from factory. And the plug type is identical to the plug used on the steering angle sensor for the HICAS

Hey guys. Im replacing my clock spring in my manual R34 GTT as well as rewiring the horn as the previous owner had wired the horn to a button on the dash, and saw this random 4 pin plug with only 2 wires coming out of it just hanging loose (the one in my hand). Was wondering if anyone has any idea what it was/is for? It seems the electrical tape had been cut to move it downward at some point, as it originally would have gone up to the top with the brown plugs for the indicator and wiper stalks. I cannot find ANYTHING it would plug into around it, as it doesnt have much wire to reach too far. Just trying to make sure it isnt something thats supposed to be plugged in, or could be something that is for the auto model of this car and i don’t need it? Thanks in advance!

Yeah fair enough, that’s unfortunate there isnt a 1 way from Nismo as I imagine for majority of people modifying their Skyline it would be a popular choice For me its a weekend street car, driven once a week or for a whole weekend every so often, don’t think i will ever do track days, if anything, would just be a few laps, nothing hectic, should be able to put up with the 1.5

Im not particularly set on anything, dont know a heap on diffs for R34’s and the options, just what i could google and read about on forums like this. Just looking for the best option, as although my diff is ok for now, i would like to change it in the next few months or so as its still completely stock and getting on in age, would rather change it out sooner than have it clunk out later

Yeah might just go down the Nismo route, easier to sort out and my skyline is just a weekender, so doesnt get heavy use. All i can find is the 1.5 way/2 way diff from them that can be changed between the two. Is there one that is 1 way?

Thanks for that. So would the best bet be to just go the Nismo GT Pro setup for a bit of an upgrade? Mainly street use, don’t think i will ever track day it. When doing some research i saw these Kaaz Helical LSD’s, would these be only a direct bolt in with an already helical diff setup? Or are the stub axles etc. all the same just the diff itself vary? https://www.cartel-aus.com/product/kaaz-super-q-lsd-helical-1-5-way-rear-nissan-skyline-er34-25gt-turbo-rb25det-99-02/

Hey guys. Was wondering what the best way to identify the type a diff is? Theres a couple of diffs being sold near me for a R34, and I imagine theyre Viscous just like mine, as the helical are rare from what people say. Whats the best way to identify what exactly they are? Ive attached a photo of one, the other is just a photo of the whole housing, could i look for certain castings or anything to identify it? Unfortunately I don’t know a heap about the physical appearance of diffs and identifying the type visually

Or i just thought i might be able to just have that masked when they respray the bumper, leave it black plastic, sand and fill the indent with plastic filler, then raptor coat that little bit with the letters masked, then it will keep the rough lip with smooth letters that it has going on now and all the dents and deep scratches will be gone, and wont look bad im sure

Any idea what coating would be best to use to paint them again? unfortunately didnt want to paint it, as it is left raw from factory. Might have to just have it masked and sprayed matt black separate to the rest. Might get the whole bit sprayed white, sand back the flat faces and mask up the letters, and paint that bit black to have white "SKYLINE" writing Thanks for your help man

Hey all. Restoring a plastic Altia body kit ive got and spraying it white to match my car, and had a few questions So I have been pulling the mesh grills off, ready for spray painting, and was going to re-coat the grills in Black. The grills are metal, not plastic, as some spots the coating has lifted and i can see theyre metal. It seems the coating on them is some sort of thick rubberised coating with a smooth finish. It’s definitely much thicker than powder coat and has a different texture. Has anyone stripped this sort of part back and re-coated it? What did you use to strip it back and what coating did you go with afterwards? I was going to try and blast it, but not sure if that’s the best option for this kind of coating Also on the black plastic “SKYLINE” section at the bottom, it’s obviously just raw black plastic, unpainted. Unfortunately there is a small scuff on it, what can i do to get that looking nice and remove the scuff? I also have a dent in the rear bar, seems heat has deformed it, i didnt want to just sand it back as the dent may be too deep and cause the plastic to be too thin in that area, how can I shape it back ready to light sand and maybe a little high fill? Lastly, on the rear bar are some “grill” checkered plastic feature bits that are unpainted, and have faded to grey. Whats the best way to restore them to a nice black? thanks heaps in advance!

Hey guys. So my bottom end has a potential issue, engine comes out to drop the sump later this week to see exactly what, has a bit of a knock on cold start up that goes away. My heads were recently done due to a found exhaust valve leak, so upgraded springs and retainers, and upgraded drop in cams while it was out. Heads went back on and we found the bottom end was knocking at high RPM (not very loud as was heard through the knock box and ear muffs) when they were doing a dyno run with the new head on. Car hasnt been started up again since I have the option to purchase a freshly machined and honed RB25DET block, with a R34 GTR RB26 Crank, Nitto rods, nitto oil pump, new head studs, main studs, new main bearings for $3500, will need to get my own pistons though as he used the pistons for his RB25/30 build he ended up doing instead, and has had the built block sitting for a while and wants to clear it out. Block had only been assembled for test fitment of everything, then pulled apart so he could use the Nitto Pistons he had in his RB30 build OR Get my current RB25DET Neo bottom end fixed up, possible machining, new bearings, new rings, etc etc. Wasnt looking to do forged internals but could go down that track Was looking to make 300-350 rwkw for now, maybe 400rwkw, as I do have all supporting mods already outside the engine to go to that power (besides the turbo but will upgrade that while im at it) Will i see much of a difference using the RB26 internals? I know the crank has a longer stroke, what advantages will I see and is it worth just getting the almost-ready-to-drop-in bottom end and going with that, or freshening up my stock Neo bottom end? thanks in advance

I have upgraded cams (tomei poncam type B) and valve springs + retainers so might change the response i get from a .71 housing i was going to go with the external wastegate plumb back kit which bolts right up to a JJR Front pipe, currently have a JJR full dump pipe but a front pope is only $150 to get new, and can sell my dump for $100 or something, less cop attention the better and i reckon i will get over the noise of a screamer pipe after a bit haha