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Found 133 results

  1. Hello Everyone. Back in February my motor died, i'm pretty sure it was the head gasket but I'm no expert with these things. I've finally found a new engine and am having the swap done next week and need to sell the old one because I have no room for it, don't plan on rebuilding it and need to make some money back from swap. I will have more photos of the Engine once it is out of the car. These motors are getting harder to find, and they're getting more and more expensive. I've looked on Gumtree and other dead RB25's are being listed anywhere from $600 - $1200. I'm asking for $500 ono for the engine. Pickup from the Cannington area. Note: The Painted covers will be going on my new engine and it's standard grey will be going on the broken one. Also, I will have photos of the engine out of the car some time this week. Secondly, I'm also selling the front bumper from my car, as you can see in the photos below it's pretty thrashed, but i'm replacing it along with the new engine being put in, so, same story there. I'm asking $200ono for the front bumper (including the fog lights, which from what I've seen online are worth about $100) Same deal as above, pickups from the Cannington area, WA. DM me if you're interested in either, or if you have any further questions.
  2. Hi guys, I'm trying to find an engine for my R32 skyline gtst I'm after a stock(ish) RB20det silvertop for around $1000.
  3. So i just changed my sparkplugs on my r34 everything was fine I drove it for like 10 minutes and then the engine light came on and then it started misfiring really bad, now on idle, it sounds like its running on fewer cylinders. I got engine fault code 21
  4. Hi all, I want to know what are some good engine machinists that you guys have gone to get work done on your RBs. I'm currently building a RB30/25DET Neo and I want a machinist that has experience and knowledge in RB engines. Thanks.
  5. Hey guys i made a post in the past about a strange noise my motor has been making on the dyno. It is only heard through the knock sensor when listening in to it, and starts bang on 5krpm and stops around 5.5k every run without fail. Almost sounds like a very fast ‘ddrrddrrddrrddrr’ (best way i can describe the noise on here). Cannot be heard just listening normally. The ECU is picking this noise up and pulling timing occasionaly because of it, but me and my tuner are stumped as to what it is. It appears to be coming from somewhere in the head area of the motor (at least thats what it sounds like). I’m coming here to look for advice on where to look. The cambelt has just been done with all new pulleys is etc, and has been done properly as I was lead to believe that could be a potential culprit. Disabling the VCT does not affect it, noise is there whether that is on or not. Has anyone else had experience with this or any advice on what it could be? Tuner is thinking it may be my intake cam gear, but has never heard of them failing before. Should also add compression is fantastic on all 6 cylinders, and car only has 105,000kms. Any advice and input is much appreciated!
  6. Brand new Nissan N1 RB26 Block for sale Still in the box and original packaging. Kudos Motorsport (no stock) RhdJapan (no stock) Nengun (no stock) Justjap - (no stock) $6499 Price $5500. Located Morebank NSW 2170 for pickup or can ship at your cost.
  7. Hey everyone, I just thought I should ask everyone’s opinions on my problem. I plan on buying a Datsun c211 as a project. It will be my first project car and I don’t know what engines will fit without any major changes. Such as if any rb engines would fit? thanks in advance to anyone that can help and I look forward to reading your advice.
  8. Hello I need a new RB26 block as my current one has a coolant leak near the rear welsh plug Does anyone have a bare block available??? Cheers Wayne
  9. Hi, after a r34 rb25det neo engine complete with all bolt ons, wiring loom and ecu. the lower the km and unmodified the better. Prefer for it to be in Melbourne for inspection and pickup. Thanks
  10. Hey guys so after a comp test my engine has busted rings leading to 40psi. So I’ve taken them all apart. I’m the first owner in aus from Japan. My rods don’t all line up properly in numerical order. Also my piston caps have been stamped. Does this mean this engine was rebuilt with stock parts at some point ?
  11. Hey guys I'm looking at ordering a replacement engine from these guys and I've heard a few good things and a few bad things about them (The bad things were quite a while ago and i imagine they'd of cleaned their act up if they wanna stay in business) I'm looking at $2,200 For the Engine and $200 for Freight to the Mechanic in NSW i was told its been compression tested and has 175 across all cylinders and 94,000 km/s on it its a RB25DET S2 out of a Stagea and they said it comes with Start-Up Warranty (If it makes any strange noises once its dropped in or is down on compression i can send it back for a full refund.) Just wondering if any of you have any recent experiences with them and if so are they good/bad experiences Thanks in Advance http://www.brisbanemotorimports.com.au/
  12. 2x Nismo LH Engine Motor Mount 11220-RS540 (fits 180SX S13 S14 S15) I have two nismo engine mounts for sale - model 11220-RS540. They are both located in Adelaide, SA - but I'm happy to post at buyers expense. They have stickers on them incorrectly marking for an R34 GTT, but as per the nismo model number they're the front left engine mount on a Nissan 180SX PS13, RPS13, S14, S15. 30 to 40 Percent Stiffer Reduces Engine Vibration They're brand new in the box - never used. They regularly list brand new on eBay, etc for $150+. Please note, this is for the left-hand side only. Picture for reference (I can post pictures of the actual items/boxes if you'd like).
  13. I'm assuming its a circuit breaker however the way its been wired up makes me think I'm wrong.
  14. Hey everyone, My oil filter housing flange is cracked and I have a nasty oil leak as a result. I've had a look around everywhere for replacement parts and advice on what to do but haven't found exactly what I'm looking for. From my research I have the following options: 1. Weld the crack - not recommended as the housing is aluminium and oil tends to get trapped making it even harder to weld. 2. Relocate oil filter using kit - seems like a good option but then I have to relocate the oil cooler as well. Also is there any additional wiring needed for the sensors (oil temp and pressure) due to the relocation? 3. Install a sandwich plate - another seemingly good option, but also deletes the oil cooler. I guess with this one the sensors can stay where they are (just get installed into the sandwich plate)? 4. Use a housing from a different engine such as an RB30 - not too sure about this one. What are the differences between them? Ideally I'd love some advice from someone who has done this before but at this point any advice would help. I liked the idea of the sandwich plate the most but I've been told it's not as simple as just putting in a new stud, installing the sandwich plate and sensors and screwing in the filter. Any thoughts on this? Alternatively if anyone has a blown RB25DET that they are parting out please let me know! TIA
  15. Hi all, I’m planning on chucking an rb25de series 2 package in my 1992 gts r32. It comes with loom ecu etc but I was wondering if I would still need to change anything around to accomodate for the different series engine. I’m currently running... well was running an rb25de series 0. Cheers 😁
  16. can someone please help me i removed my exhaust cam pulley and i don't know how to set it back correctly.
  17. I have a RB30 with neo head and 3.4l stroker kit. A couple of mornings ago I started it like I do every morning to warm up before going to work. It was idling and just shut off for some unknown reason and wouldn't start up again. I thought it may have been the battery as it was only cranking at 9.3v, however I charged it and the voltage increased. So using the charged battery and also jumping off another car I tried to start it, no luck. Next I checked the fuel lines to make sure it's getting fuel, all good. Then I checked all the coil packs, all were sparking. Then I took all the plugs out and replaced them. Still no luck. The old plugs were covered in what seems like oil, I'm 99% sure it's oil (Picture Attached). I know very little about automotive but I do believe that's not a good sign. I tried cranking after replacing and the new ones were also covered in whatever it is. The engine has less than 10k on it. So the guy that built it reckons it's my immobilizer stopping it, but I haven't had a problem with it ever until now. The crank angle sensor, possibly? I have hooked up the ECU to check for error codes to no avail. Bit more about the car: Port & polished Garrett GTW6262R 1.15AR Flex tuned to 50% ethanol Haltech Platinum Pro ECU with IQ3 Splitfire Coilpacks Turbosmart FPR/Wastegate/BOV Also my oil light kept flicking on every now and then, although the oil seemed fine, may have something to do with it? This is driving me crazy, I'm not in a great financial position to take it to be looked at, so any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  18. Pretty much as the title says, I have a 97 R33 and the engine does not like to idle comfortably. On start up and warm up it revs itself to 1.5 to 2k which I assume is pretty standard but once it is warm it will drop right down to 300 to 500 (going by the tach it might be slightly higher but not much) and feels like it's a Cummins instead of an RB. The worst part is rolling up to a set of lights, if I don't engine brake the whole way it will stall and I have to blip the revs whenever I have the clutch in. Once it recovers it will idle, but will feel rough (usually around 700, slow enough that the aircon doesn't really work, also another problem I have with the car, the aircon won't be cold lower than 1.2 to 1.5k rpm, I assumed this was a part of the previous issue). The exhaust also smells quite fuely. The car is pretty much stock apart from a front mount, BOV (which is set to full recirculation anyway) and a pod filter and always runs 98 I do plan on eventually putting a haltech or equivalent ecu once I find the funds but that could be years off so any help fixing this would be great, Thanks in advance Joe
  19. Had to jump start my car after being away for 2 weeks, and when the car warmed up the idle would start dropping every 7ish seconds, and when it dropped the car would start shaking and a metal grinding sound was coming from the engine, sounds like as if you were slowly drilling through a piece of metal for about a second, and would then rise again. Never did this before, I could feel the grinding when the idle dropped when I put my hand on the intake piping. Was too scared to drive it after that. Any ideas?
  20. MAD SKYLINE GARAGE CLEARANCE Righto, long story short, sold my business and now I have a heap of parts to clear. SUBSCRIBE for updates cause this post will be regularly updated. Located in Fairfield NSW, small items can be posted, large items pick up preferable or can freight at a cost. R34 Cabin Filters - To suit all R34 Models, BRAND NEW aftermarket - $35 R34 GT-R V-Spec Differential - $900 R33 GTS-T S2 Grille M spec - needs mesh (Supercheap Auto has meshes, cut to fit) - $80 R33 GTS/T Series 1 Passenger Side Headlight, good condition - $150 R33 GTS/T Coupe Boot Trims Set - $200 R33 GTS/T Series 2 Front Fog Lights/Indicators - $300 R32 GT-R Parcel Shelf - $100 More to come as I dig through my house.
  21. Rb 20/25 cam covers - any condition NSW Hi all Chasing a pair of cam covers for an rb. Pref sydney. Any condition is fine. Cheaper the better as i only need them for transporting/installing a motor.
  22. rb26 rebuilt engine with exceptional attention to detail Hi, I've had my r33 rb26 engine totally rebuilt including head. Unlike many rebuilds, nothing has remained untouched and all screws, metal parts, springs have been cleaned, polished, electrocoated. Some components have been sandblasted and painted or powder coated. All machining work performed by orger who worked on the r32s that ran in the v8 championships. New end spring plastic brackets were machined for throttle bodies. The motor has not been started and sits in a RWD 300zx. The project has blown out and while in no rush, I'm considering selling and SEEKING EXPRESSIONS OF INTEREST. Engine owes me over 30k, so will say asking for 30 and open to reasonable offers. Located near chadstone in VIC. Please no low ballers as you will be ignored :-( Engine details; Ferrea OS Valve set rb26 ferrea double valve spring set rb26 ARP head studs RB26 Camtech camshafts - 274 degree with 9.35mm lift OEM Timing Belt Timing Belt Tensioner (both) 2 x RPM Adjustable Camshaft Pulley Nitto I-beam conrods Nitto Oil Pump headgasket nitto drag series nitto intake & exhaust gasket ITB block water fitting exhaust studs x 10 3x water hoses Davies craig EWP alloy JE Pistons & Rings Main studs ARP Head studs ARP Main bearing set piston ceramic coating Misc Acid clean block welsh plugs crack test block crack test crankshaft remove crankshaft oil gallery plugs clean & linish crankshaft Modify oil galleries for NPT plugs Strainer plate line hone conrod alignment conrod size check check s/e clearance check bearing clearance Mock Assemble squish areas in chambers dismantle final clean & re assemble check compression 8.5 - 1 block surface balance full engine check and dispatch NO SUMP. Accessories; BPP fuel rail is twin entry 14mm rail 6 x Bosch EV14 1000cc injectors adaptors filters seals plugs (Flow Matched) Heat treated manifold Precision 6466 and 46mm dual gates plumbed back into dump
  23. LF a running RB30e or a S2 RB25Det in S.E Melbourne. Thank you
  24. Hey Guys, Newbie here, have an R32 mods are as follows; Garrett T51R SPL Trust extended Sump Nitto Oil Pump R33 crank spool rods cp pistons 2000cc injectors Trust twin feed fuel rail Hyper tune plenum with 90mm throttle body I am looking to get; Valve springs, maybe guides & retainers. Cams Head gasket Exhaust Manifold Fuel Pumps - internal tank Computer Gear box I want to run E85 anyone got any brand new parts for sale?
  25. Target 400 RWKW RB25 DET Torque Plate? Hi, I've done some searching and couldn't find a response, sorry if it does exist or if this has been discussed already. I'm building an engine currently for my time attack car. I'm a control freak and want to manage all of the build that i possibly can. However I am not a machine shop so don't have that gear. I've got a machine shop lined up and intend to have my block torque plate machined. Meaning that the rings should also be gaped with a torque plate. So I should provide them with the rings etc and have them gaped. My problem with that is I cannot then check those without the torque plate at home. Now I've just had a light bulb moment... Why not bolt the head on and gap the ring from the underside as I'll have the bare block on a stand. Am I missing something? Is there any reason I cannot do this? Am I an idiot for thinking this is a good idea? Any engine builders or experienced guys want to poke holes in it? I can think of some small negatives but nothing drastic really, just having to reach further in with the feeler gauges, might be harder to square them while deeper in and poor light really. apart from that... I can't see why not? Admin sorry if I'm in the wrong topic, seemed to be the best one.
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