Search the Community

Hey guys. So my bottom end has a potential issue, engine comes out to drop the sump later this week to see exactly what, has a bit of a knock on cold start up that goes away. My heads were recently done due to a found exhaust valve leak, so upgraded springs and retainers, and upgraded drop in cams while it was out. Heads went back on and we found the bottom end was knocking at high RPM (not very loud as was heard through the knock box and ear muffs) when they were doing a dyno run with the new head on. Car hasnt been started up again since I have the option to purchase a freshly machined and honed RB25DET block, with a R34 GTR RB26 Crank, Nitto rods, nitto oil pump, new head studs, main studs, new main bearings for $3500, will need to get my own pistons though as he used the pistons for his RB25/30 build he ended up doing instead, and has had the built block sitting for a while and wants to clear it out. Block had only been assembled for test fitment of everything, then pulled apart so he could use the Nitto Pistons he had in his RB30 build OR Get my current RB25DET Neo bottom end fixed up, possible machining, new bearings, new rings, etc etc. Wasnt looking to do forged internals but could go down that track Was looking to make 300-350 rwkw for now, maybe 400rwkw, as I do have all supporting mods already outside the engine to go to that power (besides the turbo but will upgrade that while im at it) Will i see much of a difference using the RB26 internals? I know the crank has a longer stroke, what advantages will I see and is it worth just getting the almost-ready-to-drop-in bottom end and going with that, or freshening up my stock Neo bottom end? thanks in advance

Hey guys. So took my car to a local tuner/mechanic to get it looked over, showed low compression cylinders 5 and 6, they did a leak down test, showed exhaust leak was the culprit. Rest of the cylinders were around 160PSI on average. Only issue i had with the car was with the A/C on, when it was a really hot day, and car was warmed up, when the AC belt engaged/disengaged, the revs would drop a little briefly and before the revs picked back up it dropped enough to stall out, also happened occasionally when going from 3rd to 2nd and i did a slow gear change, the revs would drop and engine would stall briefly until i released the clutch and the engine turned over. With A/C off it wouldn’t do that at all. This particular shop unfortunately didnt have the time to do the work for quite a while due to some race events coming up and the cars they were working on for those, so went to another shop that had a bit of a shorter time before i could get in, and had good reviews. They took the heads off, got it machined, serviced, new head studs, new gaskets, upgraded the valve springs and retainers, upgraded the cams, put it all back together. Theyre now getting about 120-130PSI across all cylinders, car really struggles to start up, and is making only 180kw ATW on 20PSI of boost, and previous owner who had all the work/tune done had 300kw ATW when he got a dyno test done Is there something shonky going on? How can the PSI drop so bad across the 4 front cylinders that were ok originally?

After a bare Rb26 block, ideally with stock bore (86mm). Cant be cracked. Ideally in Melbourne, otherwise must be able to ship.

Hi all, I'm looking for a RB20Det. Located in Sydney. It would be best if i could see the engine running, if already removed i would require compression test results. Would also be interested in a package with ECU and RB20 engine loom. If you know anyone with an engine sitting around in their garage, let them know. Cheers Willis 0435 120 602, SMS works best.

Chasing a complete rb25det neo with loom and ecu. Must be in perfect condition, low k's and not messed with. Brisbane area preferred. I will not buy an engine interstate without viewing it and fully testing it myself. 0433559722. .

Looking to buy rb30/25 setup stock or worked, or a worked head to suit rb25neo. Car is due for it's major, so i thought why not just do it properly xD any advice will be great as i am quite useless with what will work engine-wise. Cheers

does anyone no or recommend types proven to be suitalble, full synthetic ,mineral based ? I want to change the lot

Hi there i'm chasing some oem parts for my skyline project. Location SYDNEY NSW Looking for the following; RB20DET throttle body RB20/25/26/30 flywheel RB20DET starter motor 32 GTS-t indicators pair 32 GTS-t wiper motor RB20/S1 RB25 AFM RB20DET engine mount brackets (don't need the engine mounts) RB20DET air box If you have any of the following please throw me a PM with a picture, price and location! Thanks Willis

Looking for a cheap R33 in Victoria. Willing to travel to get it. Motor does not need to be running. Must have turbo manual box. All parts must be there. Looking to spend around $2000 but can spend more, depending on the quality of the car. SMS me any time on 0404 409 722

WTB low km rb20det to go into streeter, must be complete. Preferably in Adelaide SA.

WTB - r34gtt / Stagea Neo rb25det CAS After one in/near Brisbane or I will pay for postage.

Rb 20/25 cam covers - any condition NSW Hi all Chasing a pair of cam covers for an rb. Pref sydney. Any condition is fine. Cheaper the better as i only need them for transporting/installing a motor.

WTB RB25DE Block and Head Hello, I'm looking to buy an RB25 motor (block and head) in running condition suited for an N/A r32 skyline. Please pm me if you have anything.

WTB: RB25DET Neo engine from R34 GTT/Stagea [VIC] My engine decided to pack it in so I'm looking for a replacement one. If you have one available – or know someone else who does – please PM through photos from every side, engine number, approximate kms and what type of car it came from etc. Here's what I'm after: Short or long RB25DET Neo turbo engine 1998 onwards Clean and in good condition, with even compression across all cylinders Preferably under 100,000 kms Preferably from a stock donor car (ideally grandpa's auto R34 GTT sedan lol) Ancillaries optional, I can swap over mine. Turbo not required If the head has been pulled I'll need a receipt for what was done in terms of refresh, head gasket, studs etc. I will need some paperwork on where the engine came from (preferably with a chassis VIN), and also a written receipt for the sale so that the swap can be registered with VicRoads I'm keen to find the engine in Vic so it can be thoroughly inspected before purchase; if it can be viewed running, even better. I am fairly thorough and will ask a million questions so if you're selling from the back of a van I'd rather not waste your time. Contact details for decent Melbourne wreckers are welcome, too. Thanks guys!

WTB: RB26 Engine (SYD) Hi guys, I'm after a RB26 engine. Preferably a complete engine minus hot side, Running or non-running would be fine as it'll be a slow garage build to keep me busy during my spare time. I’m within Sydney area, but I can travel a reasonable distance if required. If you’re interstate let me know your price, I can organize shipping from my side also. Contact me on 0434 zero five three 559. Thanks, Josh.

today i installed my engine (gearbox attached) and i thought i'll warn anyone attempting this to detach the tranny before installation it was a very tight fit probably due to the larger greddy plenum i had to drop the subframe 50-100mm for it to work

Started work on instilling aftermarket engine management on my stagea ran into a few hurdles one being relays and there location i understand the fuel pump has a progressive voltage feed ? and i know the relay in the kick panel next to the ecu is ecu switched but where is the coil and high current relay ? also the stock rpm gauge is it simple pulse or digital signal or voltage i have looked and looked but all i can find is circuits to convert was to aftermarket tach if i can get this working on the stock ecu wiring end it could lead to an aftermarket plug and play for the s1 stagea almast had it running today on the aftermarket then the relay issue arose so unsoldered everything and reconnected stock ecu fired straight up

Just recently bought a Stage 2 R34 Stagea, on straight LPG, with RB25 Neo Det. 4 weeks in and there's oil leaking into cooling system, head cracked in multiple places and will cost more than a whole new engine to weld up.. Need a new head and apparently some valves as well. If someone knows about this more than I do (which is bugger all) then I need help. Can I put a straight Det head on this? Does it have to be a Neo? I'm not too stressed if it has less power, just want to get this car going again. Cheers, Jason

WTB: RB25DET AWD Engine Willing to Buy RB25DET AWD engine RB25DET AWD engine off a Stagea or equivalent. Preferably low kilometers but not a big issue. Compression should be good. No variances between cylinders. It would be better if I could get it with a wiring harness. Pm or Send Text to 0417764194.

1982 R30 Engine problems Recently got a R30 Skyline which had been sitting for a while, after some minor work got the engine started but it will not continue to run if any throttle input is maintained, not sure if I need to leave it to run for a while before trying. Someone please help me, engine is a L24E.

LF a running RB30e or a S2 RB25Det in S.E Melbourne. Thank you

Hey guys I'm looking at ordering a replacement engine from these guys and I've heard a few good things and a few bad things about them (The bad things were quite a while ago and i imagine they'd of cleaned their act up if they wanna stay in business) I'm looking at $2,200 For the Engine and $200 for Freight to the Mechanic in NSW i was told its been compression tested and has 175 across all cylinders and 94,000 km/s on it its a RB25DET S2 out of a Stagea and they said it comes with Start-Up Warranty (If it makes any strange noises once its dropped in or is down on compression i can send it back for a full refund.) Just wondering if any of you have any recent experiences with them and if so are they good/bad experiences Thanks in Advance http://www.brisbanemotorimports.com.au/

WANT TO BUY I am looking to buy a R33 rb25det engine loom, located Auckland, NZ but happy to pay for shipping from anywhere, Cheers!

Hello all! After removing my immobiliser and swapping out a faulty HEC, im now left with a car that starts, runs fine but won't cut the ignition signal when the key is removed / ignition barrel is disconnected from the loom. When the battery has been disconnected THEN reconnected, i have no voltage coming from wire 3 (ignition wire) when probing (with the harness connected, as expected.) However, when the ignition is switched on (by turning the key in the barrel) the signal is closed and the circuit is complete, but it will not open the circuit when the key is switched back to off and even when the circuit is opened by removing the ignition barrel harness. This circuit will remain complete until either the battery is disconnected, or the IGN-1 relay is removed from the HEC unit. I was originally under the impression it was a short to voltage, but when i realised it only occurs once the barrel has been turned and not so much as soon as the harness is connected to the battery i'm stumped. I've tried identifying any relays installed complimentary to the immobiliser, but can't find anything hidden up under the dash or in the engine bay, any help or pointers is appreciated and ill attach the relevant diagrams, including a complete body and engine harness diagram as a pdf. any pointers and help is appreciated! thanks for your time! r31_service_manual_ti_diagram.pdf

Hi all, I want to know what are some good engine machinists that you guys have gone to get work done on your RBs. I'm currently building a RB30/25DET Neo and I want a machinist that has experience and knowledge in RB engines. Thanks.