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Found 53 results

  1. Hi Would like to buy a oil filter housing/adapter. Preferably located in Melbourne Thanks in advanced
  2. Hey everyone, noobie question. if I get an AWD Rb25de for my RWD R33, I will need to modify the sump on the engine. I did research online and can’t find much however I do know I have to weld up the front axle holes in the sump.. is that all? Or is there an adapter plate I can just buy to bolt the rwd sump onto the engine with a AWD bolt pattern? Cheers everyone
  3. Hey everyone, My oil filter housing flange is cracked and I have a nasty oil leak as a result. I've had a look around everywhere for replacement parts and advice on what to do but haven't found exactly what I'm looking for. From my research I have the following options: 1. Weld the crack - not recommended as the housing is aluminium and oil tends to get trapped making it even harder to weld. 2. Relocate oil filter using kit - seems like a good option but then I have to relocate the oil cooler as well. Also is there any additional wiring needed for the sensors (oil temp and pressure) due to the relocation? 3. Install a sandwich plate - another seemingly good option, but also deletes the oil cooler. I guess with this one the sensors can stay where they are (just get installed into the sandwich plate)? 4. Use a housing from a different engine such as an RB30 - not too sure about this one. What are the differences between them? Ideally I'd love some advice from someone who has done this before but at this point any advice would help. I liked the idea of the sandwich plate the most but I've been told it's not as simple as just putting in a new stud, installing the sandwich plate and sensors and screwing in the filter. Any thoughts on this? Alternatively if anyone has a blown RB25DET that they are parting out please let me know! TIA
  4. I have a C33 Laurel with an RB20DET, and the car runs normally, but there's been an issue bugging me since I bought it. Whenever I go full throttle(or close to full throttle) and start making boost, there's a noticeable burning smell coming from the engine bay. There isn't any smoke, and the turbo spools up just fine. I've checked the oil level often, and over the 4 or so months that I've owned it, it hasn't dropped noticeably at all. Is this likely a blow-by issue? It does have a pod filter, straight pipe exhaust, and external wastegate. I would think that a bad turbo would consume a lot more oil.
  5. I have an r34 gtt Previous owner had put in custom gauges (they were crap) Recently put in original gauges and just wired up with his existing wiring (cause I'm lazy) now the oil temp gauge rises with acceleration and when idle sits at the bottom anysuggestions??
  6. Hey all, My catch can filters were filthy with crap bubbling out and dripping everywhere, so when I changed the oil I gave them a good clean. Now that the filters aren't saturated in crap, there is quite a lot of vapour coming out of the filters. It seems to smell kind of sweet, doesn't smell like exhaust gas or anything like that. I would say the amount lessens or stays the same with revs - it doesn't appear to get any worse. Here are a couple of videos showing the vapour. Keen to know what people think! Cheers,
  7. Hey guys, Has anyone blown the oil pump? what symptoms came up? really want to know, if someone could be bothered replying that would be great thank you Marni
  8. Racepace R33/R34 GTR Catch Can/Washer Bottle with inbuilt Oil/Air Separator Hi Guys, I have a Racepace R33/R34 GTR Catch Can/Washer Bottle with inbuilt Oil/Air Separator for sale. This came out of my R34 GTR and was working perfectly but needs to go now as I have to fabricate a new one to suit the new engine setup. The great thing about Racepace catch can's over normal ones is they have a built in oil/air separator which means you can have it leading back into your intake without having to worry about sucking oil back through.It also means you end up with one clean looking unit rather than the usual style oil air separator you see on top of the engine covers. I had this one specially made with -12 AN fittings rather than push on style hoses as it looks a lot nicer. You have 3x -12 fittings for breathing (rockers, sump etc) and a -6 drain. Overall its in good condition just a little bit dirty. No marks or scratches. Cost me $450 new. Price is $300 ONO and catch can is located in Rouse Hill, NSW. Pickup is preffered over post but will post at buyers expense. Any questions just message me or sms/call 0403858714. Thanks, Brett
  9. Hey guys, So i'm planning on purchasing an oil filter relocation kit. I have seen the trust/greddy ones going around but am unsure on the quality of them as the fittings they use on the hoses are hose clamp fittings as apposed to JIC (better seal, and have been told to use if i can) and the plate/adapter that goes where your oil filter is, screws on like a filter and i have heard these apparently leak?. Just after any experiences you guys have had with these kits or any recomendations on any particular kits. I have found this one, not sure on it tho... Heres the greddy kit im refering to. any help would be appreciated!
  10. Hi Guys, Just wanted to check with you guys - do any of your Rb26 suffer a lot of blowby? When on idle and when u rev - do you get a black soot coming out of the exhaust? And when on boost lots of black smoke? Like it is extremely rich? What is the average oil consumption on the RB26? Im on Magnatec now - drove for 2 weeks - and i checked 2 days ago it was about half from the F line. Had to top up. Just want to see if any of you guys experience this - and if any of you know if it is a problem... If it is a problem what is the solution? This is my first RB26 so im learning as i go along. Car is running fine - boosts fine as well witha slight misfire at 5500rpm to 6000rpm - should be the coils, will be changing them at the end of the month - just these 2 issues - no leaks other than return hose from the turbines has a slight leak. Thanks for the help in advance. Cheers!
  11. Which oil sandwich plate to get for an rb20det? Can someone link me to a sandwich plate for a oil temp sensor which is 1/8 npt, thanks anyone sorry for noob question
  12. Filling transmission oil through gearstick? So after having to cut off the boot that goes on the bottom of the shifter (previous owner didnt use a circlip instead used a hose clamp and tightened it with hulk hands) I'm now stuck as to what to do next. I cant change the fluid through the actual transmission because the filler plug has been tightened by hercules. What do I do next to fill the transmission oil? And does anyone have the part number for the boot that goes on the bottom there?
  13. Intermittent Oil light flash In the last week or so my car has developed a new behavior where it randomly flashes the oil light while driving. Seems to become more frequent if driving hard and I am getting engine cut outs as well. It started happening about the time I unblocked my pcv valve but I know it needs rocker cover gaskets as well which are on their way now. I have yet to see what condition the turbo is in and could possibly be leaking oil from that section. Has anyone had issues with their car after unblocking the pcv system?
  14. wtb oil sender unit for an RB25 Need the oil Gauge sender unit for an RB25. mines not working In Sydney thanks
  15. Oil/Coolant substance in Engine Harness If it's not one thing after another. So as I was removing my alternator due to an issue with receiving 18v from my charging system, a puddle of what appeared to be a oil/coolant mix formed next to my head on the floor. Now my car hasn't moved since Aug 12th due to a broken leg (only pulled it forward 8ft out of the garage once after disconnecting the alternator to hang ceiling racks and check voltage). This substance was legit pouring out of a connector (engine harness side not the power steering line) plugged into a power steering hard line directly under the alternator. Any ideas/suggestions as to what could be causing this? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks gents!
  16. Bad piston rings or damaged cylinder walls? Recently, I opened a discussion on my excessive oil burning that my rb25det does and thanks to the help of many enthusiasts we concluded that it is bad piston rings or a damaged cylinder wall... or can it be both? Engine had a full upgraded rebuilt 6 months ago with it being bored over .020 over. It has been driven 1000 miles or 1609 kilometers since I have compression tested all my cylinders and it showed a psi of 50-70psi. When I did a wet test it shot up to 120-135psi My rb25det has a 1.5 cosworth head gasket so compression will be lower than normal My hopeful prediction is that the piston rings have seized, been installed improperly, or the rings are worn out. The reason why I don't believe its damaged cylinder walls is because every cylinder shows the same sign of compression loss and piston rings go out together. Cylinder walls are unlikely to all be damaged at the same time What do you guys think?
  17. R.I.P.S 26/30 extended sump I have for sale a brand new extended high volume sump from my RIPS 26/30 engine package. these sell for $1400NZ (still over $1300AUD) + postage costs + import tax so this is a bargain. Asking $900 Please call or txt me on 0432 941 343 as I'm not on here often. James
  18. shadow21189

    RB25DET strange oil reading Hi all ive encountered a bit of a strange issue in my 33. Ok heres the scenario. Last week started it up to go to work car started ticking like it had no oil so i shut it down and went to check the dipstick to my horror i found it was just under the low sign so i topped it up.. and went on to work. Being parranoid of burning oil i checked the level once i got to work which is a fair distance of about 55km it strangely read above full. Since then ive been monitoring it day by day on the 4th day i noticed it droped to about 3/4 full and by the 6th day in the morning i checked it it was at the low sogn again. I had run out of oil to top up so i head over to the local parts store to buy some more then went home i got distracted and had to do a few things but once they were done i proceeded to check my oil level again to my dissbelive i found the oil level at the full mark. Could i have possibly have a blockage? Have anyone had this issue? Its a 95 s1.5 un opened engine with 150xxxkm all bolt on and suport motor 330kwatw gt3582r no sump mods definently the original dipstick
  19. Hi, I am after a r32 gtr but have heard that the models before 1993/94 had oil delivery problems. Are they still ok to buy or should I stick to these years? Any help would be much appreciated as I am new to the gtr world thanks
  20. This oil cooler kit came off a Toyota AE111 (4AGE) but can be used with other cars. For sale: Mocal 16 row oil cooler with Mocal fittings, Mocal thermostated sandwich plate and custom lines. Only had this on the car for long distance driving, which equated to 2400kms. It looks as good as new. Price: $400 ono Location: Sydney. Prefer pick up but will ship to other states. Contact: PM me for all queries. Thanks!
  21. What: 1 unopened 5L bottle of Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 100% synthetic oil. How much: $55 (cash on pick-up only) Where: Wantirna, Victoria Contact: PM me If you have not used Motul 8100 X-cess before you will immediately notice a difference in free-revving and smooth engine operation. You cannot buy this from the large retail chains anymore so get in quick at this price! From the Motul website: High performance 100% Synthetic lubricant specifically designed for powerful and recent cars fitted with large displacement engines, Gasoline and Diesel, turbocharged or naturally aspirated, direct or indirect injection. Multipurpose product featuring numerous car maker approvals, especially recommended for vehicles still under warranty.
  22. Hi Guys, Owned my first skyline for 4 months now, Its an r32 gts-t with an rb20det (all stock) with 206xxxkm's on it. Since the most recent oil change, it's developed an engine clatter from around 3000rpm and up. Most noticeable when I rev it to 3000, hold it there, and pulse it up and down from 2800 to 3200, clatter is loudest on liftoff, but not sure if thats just because there are less noises to compete with. I got out the mechanics stethoscope and hunted around, the noises seem to be coming from the top end, but I cant seem to pin point it any better than that. the oil I put in was the same as the oil I took out (Shell HX7 10W40 - was crazy cheap on special for fathers day haha) Wondering if anybody has had a similar problem, from reading around I have read some similar but not quite the same stories where people said it was blocked oil galleries, or big end bearing going (hope not!!) Something of note - the noise doesnt happen at all when its cold to half warmed up, doesnt develop til its bene running enough to be properly warmed up and hot. - maybe I can get away with a thicker oil to solve the problem? seems a bit bandaidish.. Anybody have any suggestions for me?
  23. This weekend I hope to have my Bora to a state where I can actually start it for the first time since October. The engine is empty at the moment, no oil. But theres a chance a little bit of coolant got in it. So, I thought I'd run a flush through the engine when I'm also flushing my cooling system. I don't want to spend a bajillion dollars on some super nice, thin, synthetic oil if it is going to be used for 15 mins tops. Will I do any damage using a cheap shit oil to idle the car for 15 mins? Also, as the car has not run for so long, should I pull the leads off and turn it over without spark to get oil into the head? Thanks guys.
  24. hi all im after a stock rb26 sump that's been converted for rwd application. don't need extra capacity or anything, just completely standard for use in R32 GTS-T. if anyone has 1 in western sydney, please PM me on here or msg 0407 896 339. cheers
  25. RB26dETT Team, I currently have an N1 oil pump, but understand that they can be unreliable in an RB26DETT. Are the Tomie Oil Pumps still the way to go for an RB26DETT as per previous threads? The engine is out. Should I upgrade? Thanks. JB