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About smart_garrett

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    Rank: RB20DE

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  • Car(s)
    91' R32 Gts-t
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  1. Hi all, I've recently been battling tuning my car(hcr32). A couple months ago I could connect to my ecu(nistune chipped) and it would sometimes lose connection (even with plms cable). This made me make some extra grounds and had no luck. Now recently, I cant even connect at all (Nistune gives me the spare com port error). Ive tried to connect with different cables, nistune software and datascan software, even tried the paperclip jump trick and got no response from the dash when I would before a couple months ago. I took out my ecu and inspected all points inside the ecu and it looks good, when i tried to turn the knob on the ecu to flash the diag led, I got absolutely nothing. I rewired the consult port with new wiring and a new port connection, still get nothing.. Does anyone have any advice? I'm leaning towards a bad ecu since the led wouldn't even light, but i'm not 100% sure. Thanks for any help in advance.
  2. bump, i'm having this same issue. cant connect to data scan or nistune. I checked the inside of the ecu and all points look good. My ecu diag led light also does nothing...
  3. WOW! That's what i thought it was and a SHOP!!!! was telling me it was for the injectors...... wow, i got so confused.
  4. Hey guys, I have a Rb20det in throwing some 444cc Deatschwerks injectors into. My question is do I have to unplug the injector resistor box on the passenger side of the engine bay or should I leave it in? Thanks for any help
  5. Hello, So at my last track day a couple weeks ago everything was going fine but after a couple sessions all of a sudden when i was pulling into the paddock, my car would not idle at all and had horrible misses below 2k rpm. Everywhere else in the rev range it ran fine an did not break up. Now I've done some testing so I went with the simple stuff first: plugs gapped right, r8 coils(deletes the ignitor). That did nothing. So then i replaced my coolant temp sensor and checked tps voltage, that fixed the idle issue. So I went to check my timing. With the light the first time i checked the marks were so far past advanced that it would have been blown up by now, so I was confused and shut the car off to have a drink. Came back and started it up again to look and now it was a little past the last mark at 30* degrees and was able to get it to 20, with the cas retarded almost all the way it allowed me too. I then went for a test drive and the car ran fine but when pulling it out of the driveway it died. I pulled it in to check the timing and it was the same at 20*. So i went to drive again and got out on the road and got on it, it reved up fine and built boost with no missing, but felt like it had legitimately zero power, and off throttle it gurgled a bit. I replaced my cas and that changed nothing. I'm stumbled at this point. Any pointers?? Thanks for any help.
  6. Ok, so can I just ground one wire from the new sensor and splice the other one into the old sensor?
  7. @mr.carnage on instagram had really wide 15" welds on his 33 gtr. He could probably help you out there
  8. Yea I thought it was the single too, that’s what someone else said too... that’s why I’m confused on the wiring
  9. Ohh , I was told the single was for the gauge! Thanks for the clarification
  10. Hello, so i have my aftermarket coolant gauge wired to an sensor in the upper hose, the 2 wires can be seen going into the sensor, but I want to use the existing port that is for the stock coolant gauge. The problem is there are 2 wires going to the sensor i have now in the upper hose, but only 1 going into the stock location where i want to wire my aftermarket gauge too. What do I have to do to wire it? I dont think the stock sensor is a 1/8th npt size either? (pictures below) Thanks for any help
  11. Hello, I recently installed some gauges into my car and have noticed that the coolant temp will not break above 140*F (60*C) when im moving and will only get up to about 180*F(82*C) if im standing still for a few minutes. Im pretty sure the car has a stock thermostat and it does have electric fans that are wired to turn on at about 190*F(88*C). The fans have a probe sensor that is put into the rad ,which Im not a huge fan of. I also have noticed a few times the fans have turned on well before the car has gotten up to 190, and when im driving when its cold out, around 0*C the temp will rise and then actually fall way down to almost 110*F. Any input on this? Bad thermostat? Thanks for any help.
  12. I’m fitting an rb25 turbo on my RB20 and am wondering what the best sounding outlet pipe is. I’ve looked at the tomei, but I’m not really looking at spending 300 usd for an outlet pipe. What else do you guys think? Also looking at downpipes aswell.
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