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Found 6 results

  1. Hello all, First a quick intro about myself i'm currently a junior in university studying engineering across the pond in America, and my goal is to have the first W2W circuit r32 in America. This is a pretty bold clame but I'm determined to get it done as I believe I have enough prior motorsport knowledge where I don't believe its a shot in the dark. Now, there are lots of time attack cars running around, but that's not my jazz. I have raced in an enduro series in the states for a little bit but wanted to build my own car. The car is a '91 hcr32 that I got back in 2017 and it has been an open track day car since. Just recently have I started to tear it down and start some development on the chassis and engine. The car came to the port pretty much standard. It then then got light modifications to serve as a weekend/dual purpose car like hicas delete, cusco coilovers, solid rear subframe bushings, koyo rad, koyo oil cooler, 25neo turbo, fmic and some other misc stuff. Fast forward to 2019 when I was off at school on the other side of the country the car came with and got some more work such as a lot of new bushings, front and rear camber arms, tension arms. The rb20det got some love with a Garrett 2860rs turbo, all supporting modifications and a haltech platinum pro after the nistune board and kinugawa turbo took a poop. I also did some development with some catch can set ups and found a 2 can set up that worked good for me. The car had since done countless open days at various tracks to keep me busy in between school, work, and racing this e46 which was owned by a friend at school and his dad. Back to the r32. The plan for the car is to build the car roughly to make this coming season and do a lot of testing to gather any info that will help me for 2 years down the road when the car will get refreshed and another engine built that is more suitable for race use as the motor in it now is the refreshed motor it came with. The series I want the car to eventually race in is called WRL, which is an endurance series based in the states. To start where there car is at currently I have just finished removing the engine and stripping the car to prep for a cage which is being built by a well known race shop here in Colorado. The car left to the cage builder in a fairly empty state. While the car is currently at the shop still I have been busy refreshing the ol 20det with a refreshed head, all new gaskets and pumps, and a checked over bottom end. I was also keen on trying a cheapo top intake plenum on the "mule" engine for some tests. Most of the safety equipment is sitting in the garage ready such as a seat (OMP HTE-r), sabelt 6pt belts, window and drivers nets, and some other misc stuff. I have also been busy with sorting out the harness that will run to the rear of the car to control the lights, as I took the stock harness and stripped the hicas, amp, rear wiper, and other misc junk out of it so its very skinny and will fit next to the battery cable to the rear passenger side of the car. This is pretty much up to date, so feel free to ask any questions as I will try to update this forum as much as possible as the car will be back in the garage early next week and will be getting some paint on the interior.
  2. Hi all, I have been tuning my 20det and have into a bit of confusion. When I log the knock sensor values, sensor 2 is has quite different values than sensor one, even at areas where there is little knock possibility. Is this because they could be wired in series? Although wouldn’t make much sense, I haven’t looked into it much. I will get large knock spikes at about 5500rpm -6000rpm, we have taken a lot of timing out down to about 11-13* and ran different types of fuel and have had no luck. I would think that the voltages of the two sensors would be more similar but I could be wrong. I’m not sure if this is false knock or not but I would like to bump the timing back up to 16* ish as the afr’s were spot on and it felt good or if anyone has any other suggestions that would be much appreciated. Unfortunately don’t have access to knock ears. Cheers Set up is a rb20det gt2860rs 440cc injectors platinum pro
  3. Good morning,So I have in my possesion an r32 Im building to go sideways every now and then.It has an RB20det currently but the head is cracked, my friend is going 25det in his r34 and doesn't need his 25de neo anymore.My main question is can I throw on the 25det turbo from my 20det on to the 25de neo plumb it all in and wire it all up but still retain the factory 25de ecu?If I was to +t it I would only run wastegate pressure of 7psiIf not was is my best cheapest option for ecu?Thanks
  4. Hello, So at my last track day a couple weeks ago everything was going fine but after a couple sessions all of a sudden when i was pulling into the paddock, my car would not idle at all and had horrible misses below 2k rpm. Everywhere else in the rev range it ran fine an did not break up. Now I've done some testing so I went with the simple stuff first: plugs gapped right, r8 coils(deletes the ignitor). That did nothing. So then i replaced my coolant temp sensor and checked tps voltage, that fixed the idle issue. So I went to check my timing. With the light the first time i checked the marks were so far past advanced that it would have been blown up by now, so I was confused and shut the car off to have a drink. Came back and started it up again to look and now it was a little past the last mark at 30* degrees and was able to get it to 20, with the cas retarded almost all the way it allowed me too. I then went for a test drive and the car ran fine but when pulling it out of the driveway it died. I pulled it in to check the timing and it was the same at 20*. So i went to drive again and got out on the road and got on it, it reved up fine and built boost with no missing, but felt like it had legitimately zero power, and off throttle it gurgled a bit. I replaced my cas and that changed nothing. I'm stumbled at this point. Any pointers?? Thanks for any help.
  5. Hi all, I’m about to start building an RB20DET to go into my C33 Laurel. The engine itself is all sorted, but I’m after some ideas of what others are running bolt-on wise. I’m wanting to do a front-facing plenum and top mount turbo, and really am a bit stuck on what brands/ sizes to go for. Keeping in mind that it will be a street car, and I’m not after huge numbers on the dyno. Something that looks good and drives well/ is reliable, but can perform when necessary. At this point I’m looking at Sinco manifolds, and considering a whole turbo kit from them (Holset turbo). I’ve done a little bit of research and think Plazmaman sounds like the best ffp for what I’m after. Let me know what you’re running with your RB20DET / what you would recommend- pictures would be good, and any other advice. This will be my first build cheers
  6. WTB low km rb20det to go into streeter, must be complete. Preferably in Adelaide SA.
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