Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About Carbonsky

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20DE

Recent Profile Visitors

869 profile views
  1. Good day, So after discovering a coolant leak on my early R32 GTR and replacing the culprit, another leak sprung before I even made it out the garage. After replacing this second hose, another coolant leak from yet a third hose began. Please note, the first hose had a identifiable split but the other two seem to be leaking from around the end/clamp of the hoses. It seems at this point I should order a full hose kit and replace all the hoses in this area. It appears to successfully accomplish this I must remove the intake manifold. If this is indeed the case any suggestions or recommendations on anything I should upgrade or replace with this area exposed. Much appreciated Gents
  2. As in that relay could serve as a replacement for the factor flasher relay?
  3. Hello gents, I found a dated thread somewhat related to a similar issue on a R33 regarding hyper flash. I was wondering if anyone knew if the R32 had a similar setup in which a flasher relay was located under the driver dash and could be swapped out for an electronic relay which doesn't require any load to stop hyper flash once led's are introduced into the turn signals. I plan to go leds at all four corners and would like to not have to drop in hot resistors in each corner. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/cf13jl-02-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/783/837/#notab Any advice appreciated!
  4. Old thread I know, but does the 32gtr have a similar set up? I would like to go leds at all for corners but prefer a flasher module versus hot resistors all over.
  5. I just did pretty much what you looking at minus the demon eye. I went with the D2S and led lights in the housing. As stated above I also sourced my D2S projectors from the retrofit source (demon eyes not my thing) everything else I pieced together from eBay. Found some nifty connectors and a tad bit of fab made my own harness to a none forgiving existing hid kit Cut a secured led strip into glass. Back in the oven at 170 for 10-15mins with some additional butyl (also sourced from eBay) and together she went Only thing I'm trying to figure out now is whether I want to tint (left housing) or not (right housing). Turn signals will be smoked so leaning towards a matching look.
  6. Late reply but I had a unfortunate injury and a few surgeries but bouncing back and finishing up this long over due project Not sure if I should go with the tint (on the left) or keep stock look... especially since the corners are going to be smoked
  7. Sorry Nizmo_Man I dropped the ball on this thread. I got side tracked with some other ish, but ultimately end up using epoxy sanding and spray painting the existing housing. Thanks for looking out
  8. Did you have any issues after you cut it out or did you replace it with an aftermarket fuseable link? @Trex
  9. Hey @shaund so as in this diagram the alternator has essentially five wires going on to it. It's appears to tap power from the 75amp fuse coming off the batt. Breaking it down "DA05 & DA20" labeled "A" at the alternator (will have to zoom in) the two wires going in together are the main power leads. The section labeled "L" is the appears to be the main ground. Which leaves "DA09" labeled "S" and the other ground "M" as a connector that plugs into the side of the alternator. I guess my question is, is this the voltage sense you're speaking of or is that the connector for the internal voltage regulator? Or are we saying the same thing just different lingo?
  10. Thanks for the info! @shaundI guess once I have the alternator and battery tested and it's a pass on both it may lead be back to this fluid issue. My only concern is even if I cut, substitute, or replace it may become prevelant again. Hopes were to find someone else that may have experienced a similar to find the likely source, which begs the question. This could be caused by a least two things right. Pressure from fluid at a sensor could be causing fluid to wick throughout the harness or if the fluid is conductive electricity could be walking the dog (pulling fluid) throughout the harness. One more thing I feel I need to add. The substance was not dripping out of the pins of that connector but rather out of the shielding on the outside between wire and loom.
  11. Oil/Coolant substance in Engine Harness If it's not one thing after another. So as I was removing my alternator due to an issue with receiving 18v from my charging system, a puddle of what appeared to be a oil/coolant mix formed next to my head on the floor. Now my car hasn't moved since Aug 12th due to a broken leg (only pulled it forward 8ft out of the garage once after disconnecting the alternator to hang ceiling racks and check voltage). This substance was legit pouring out of a connector (engine harness side not the power steering line) plugged into a power steering hard line directly under the alternator. Any ideas/suggestions as to what could be causing this? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks gents!
  12. Will do. Thanks! @Steve85 Unfortunately I'm about to start another thread due to an issue I discovered while removing the alternator. Check it out please as you may have some good insight and it's always appreciated.
  13. @shaund @Steve85 Due to work, holiday, and projects for the Mrs. I finally got around to disconnecting and removing the alternator. After disconnecting the two 8 gauge power wires behind a 10mm nut and wrapping with sufficient electrical tape I started the car and voltage held at 12.3v (eventually dropped to approx 11.9v, no charging system of course). But no smoke or 18v spike. I continued and removed the alternator and will take it and the battery to an auto shop in hopes to have them benched tested.
  • Create New...