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Found 28 results

  1. Hello, Recently I have been having an issue with my r34 gt where as soon as accessories are turned on and car is started I can hear an electronic buzz that is extremely high pitched. It seemed to be coming from the aircon vent next to the hazard button so I took out the aircon fuse whilst the car was running and the sound stopped. A very strange problem but the noise is driving me crazy does anyone have a solution to my problem? Thank you
  2. Hi all, I bought an R32 GTR a few months ago, noticed a fuel leak and went to investigated. I pulled out the connectors to the top of the fuel pumps so that I could better see where the leak was coming from (initially thought it was a crack in the tank). Once I realized where the leak was coming from (one of the hose clamps from soft lines to hard lines rusted off) I plugged the pumps back in and went to start the car to get a better look at exactly where the car was leaking from. So here is the issue, when I turn the key to the first and second positions everything is normal, lights come on, clock comes on, dash starts up like normal, as soon as I hit the "On" position the car tries to prime the fuel pump and the center diff for about a tenth of a second and then all of the electrics cut out. The interior lights still work and the headlights still come on but pretty much everything else is non-functional. I can repeat this but I have to unplug the battery, otherwise nothing comes on when I try again after the initial cut out. So here are the things I have checked: All fuses (under hood and under steering wheel) Fusible Link, nothing wrong Removed the FPCM (checked it, nothing wrong that I can see) New battery Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  3. I’m looking to install my alarm into my 32 gtst and need more information about the ignition harness under the dash. I’m just wondering does anyone has a diagram / wiring table stating colours of each wire and it’s use. I can spend the time to identify them, it would just save me time if someone had already done it or knows where to source diagrams etc. thanks 👍
  4. While driving home from work, my R32 died. Dash lights lit up and it stalled. It fired back up and then died again a few seconds later. No crazy sounds. The weird thing is that the dash lights and radio lights turn on when you head light knob, but nothing else turns on. If you try and start it, nothing happens. No clicking, no fuel pump priming, nothing. This happened once about 6 months ago and I took it to a mate in town to check it out. It fired right up for him and the problem couldn't be duplicated. Couldn't make it stall again. I feel like it's an electrical issue somewhere, but unsure where to start other than fuses. The clock has always been intermittent since I have owned the car. It comes on when first started, but eventually just turns off. This morning, it came on and off 4 or 5 times which lead me to believe something was up. This evening is when the issues started. The car also has a "flicker" issue that I have always noticed. The headlights will flicker every 5-30 seconds, but there is no consistency to it. My wife doesn't see it, but it's obvious to me. Has anyone had a similar issues? I've searched and found issues w/fuel pumps, alternators, batteries, etc. The big thing that seems different is that with all these issues, the car at least tries to turn over. Wondering if it's some random ground wire somewhere.
  5. hi all I have a Series 1 Stagea that had RB25DET auto, motor died, SO ive got a RB25DET neo manual with matching Loom,ECU.(Motor is in car now) I understand that the series 1 fuse box is different and after searching know that ABS, Atessa and AC wont work. Has Someone wired this correctly to fix these issues, am wondering if i just have to re-pin the body plug to suit the series 1 pin out. sorry if newbie question struggling to find info on this. Thanks all.
  6. Please help my r33 key light stays on all the time when car is locked unlock the car and it goes away it’s like it’s in reverse working out all the bugs of my new car finally found what is slowly killing my battery thnx in advance any help appreciated
  7. whaaaaattsssss up guys!!!!!!! so my r34 4door is part of a friends movie project for their studies. ive bought some gauges to put onto the car for shoots but am lost at the moment. i bought an exhaust temp and water temp gauges to hook up just cause they look nice haha. now its only going to be a temporary thing and they dont actually need to read anything, just illuminate if that makes sense. then ill take em out. but im wondering whats the best way to go about that??
  8. Hi All, I'm hoping some of you can answer my non car related electrical questions. I have a large fish tank which needs power to some components 24/7. I've thrown around the idea of buying a generator in the past but the need to be on my property when power goes out threw that out the window. Now I'm thinking about a battery and trickle charger with an inverter in an attempt to ensure uninterrupted power for my pumps. So, in my head, I'm thinking this; 3 pumps in my tank that I need to run are about 200w total (thats about 60w bigger than actual, but I'd like to over estimate than under.) A 50AH deep cycle battery will run these pumps quite easily for 24hrs. A 300w inverter will allow 240v access to the batter. A good ol' trickle/maintenance charger will keep the battery charged. Power outage means that the fully charged battery will take over. Is that sane? Am I missing anything? It seems too easy. I guess the only thing I am really wondering about is maintaining the health of a battery when it is charged at 100% for 99% of the year. Should I make it work every month? Switch off the mains to it to force it to cycle? Would love any help. Thanks, Christian
  9. Hi guys, wondering if anyone knows any reputable places in Melbourne that would be able to fit an alarm system/immobiliser/gps tracking in my 34? Had a look through some other threads and couldn't find any that give names of places in vic. Thanks
  10. So I was looking around in my boot to figure out how abs abs tcs have been disabled in my car and noticed this relay had been disconnected. Any idea what the disconnected relay does? (someone please tell me connecting it will fix my abs and tcs problem)
  11. So I've had an issue with the cabin/dome lights in my C33 Laurel. They were replaced with LEDs before I bought the car, but they will not turn on. The fuse is good, but it looks like there isn't any power at the switch. Is there a common point of failure for the lights/wiring? I'd like to avoid tearing out all of the wiring unless I have to.
  12. Hey guys, just recently bought a Nissan Stagea WC34 Series 2 and someone has ripped out the ignition barrel. I’ve heard rumours that r33 is compatible with ignition barrel for the stagea? If not is there any others or just better off finding a replacement
  13. Hey guys, Just bought an R33 and trying to figure out some problems its having. No constant 12v on the radio loom. I've checked the fuse and its getting power there, but no power at the plug. Its getting ACC 12v volts at the plug though ? I know it has something to do with the headlight reminder buzzer. I've jumped a constant 12v from the hazard switch and the buzzer gets louder. Trying to out what it could be. Does anyone have the electrical wiring diagram or know what it could be ? Thanks
  14. Hello again fellas,i finally realised my problem with my rb25 today an i was wondering if yall cud help me out...so its pretty simple actually...but im not a electrician.So basically when the car uses other electrical components(like windows,A/C) ; it causes my air fuel gauge to read lean gradually till the car cuts off....i was hoping anyone cud tell me the wire which is wrong/bad,Thanks for any help in advance
  15. R32 barely runs under load Sooo... My friend/customer has a really neat 89 m spec 20DET manual and I've offered to fix it up on the cheap because he's been f**ked around for a while and it's about time the car seen some road time. The car will rev on the spot clean and sharp without the slightest miss to 5.5-6k before it drops Spark (can hear the unburnt fuel popping in the exhaust) and when test driving it is barely driveable (as in 20kmh a struggle) with any throttle basically resulting in misfire and breaking down. Much to my dismay I'm now at the the swap parts and see stage of mechanics, after diagnosing the car has not given any obvious stuff. I have changed the plugs to BPR6ES-085 (.85gap) the coil packs have been changed by the owner less than 12months ago to OE style aftermarket coils. I have also had parts from a perfect running r32 gts-t swapped one at a time these include AFM, ECU, Igniter and Cam Sensor. I have checked the white wire supplying the the igniter for voltage at idle (14v) and under load (13.9v) and also checked the timing belt which is certainly old but all timing marks line up at 0 TDC. Our Autel Maxisys diagnostic tool has Nissan consult also which the ecu has no stored fault codes using the tool and putting the ecu in factory diagnostic mode it displays 55 currently although the consult port does continue to disconnect form the unit due to "improper connection". During live data the TPS reads .4V at idle and 4.2V wide open the ecu coolant sensor reads around 70ish degrees the rpm count matches the tacho and afm and I used the tool and a timing light to set the timing to 20 BTDC and the idle is at 800RPM. I believe the issue is related the connection problem at the consult port is going to lead to the actual problem (happy to be proven wrong though) and I'm leaning toward a earth or wiring issue with the car, also there has been moisture coming in through a slight leak in the front window if that helps. Hoping someone with some skyline experience can throw some good suggestions out there please 😑
  16. Park lights wiring hiccup Hey guys and gals I'm having a bit of trouble with the recently Rb swapped s13. It now idles which is mint. But I cant leave the battery connected 'cos the park lights (clearance lights according to FSM) get constant power.. This is my first attempt at doing anything like this myself and so far its been all good. engine is in, running, all lights work properly (except the obvious), the stereo is pumping out sounds, new interior is in (seats, dash. carpet, the works) and paint is on the way. The problem I've run into now is that the whole 'exterior lamp' circuit gets constant power. So my clearance lamps and tail lights are always on. In turn, the dash, licence plate lights and heater control unit lights are always on too. I am not overly competent with wiring. I can do it... slowly. Definitely getting quicker and better with experience. I don't know much of the technical lingo and there is a lot of it that I do not understand. Thus why Im after a wee bit of advice. I have pulled all fuses (engine fuse box and kick panel fuse box) and these lights stay on. Unless you remove the alternator fuse. Then they are off. I also tried unplugging the switch up by the steering wheel and the exterior lamp circuit is still powered. If you twist the switch to the 1st position (ON) then the lights become a little bit brighter. Not much, but just noticeable. Had a mate here for a few days (happens to be an auto sparky). Couldn't figure it out in his time here. To be fair, we had no wiring diagram then and were doing other bits n pieces too. If someone reading this is electrically savvy and you want to help, let me know what you need to see pictures of. I've made the full 900 odd page manual with wiring diagrams etc and can post up pics. this just has me stumped. Where do I start? What would you do? Cheers guys Sean
  17. Issue with alternator/headlights So my r32 gtst is having this problem where my car batteries would die the next day so i changed the car batteries 3 times and the problem persist. I figured maybe it was my alternator so i got a multi-meter and tested it the numbers coming in were in the normal ranges. I tried all the load test and they came back normal but the one thing i noticed was when i had my headlights on and i revved the car the voltages would drop on the meter down to not so normal ranges around 12 volts. On idle everything is normal but when i rev up the car around 1500-2000 it goes down only when headlights are on any idea what could be the problem?
  18. R34 airbag Hey everybody, I found the cause for my flashing air bag light the passenger airbag isn't plugged in, I think the plug has been chopped off, I'll attach a photo, if anybody can confirm that this is the right wire that would be much help! Also if I was to attach a new plug, there are two wires, does it matter which wire goes where? Thanks
  19. What the heck is this? Does anyone actually know if this (see second pic for actual part ) serves a purpose? It's off the positive lead of the battery.
  20. R33 GTR - can anyone identify this electrical plug? Hi guys, I wonder if anyone can help me to identify a random electrical plug that i cant seem to find a home for? The car is an R33 GTR and the picture is of the intake manifold side of the motor down near the steering column area. I was under the car and found this plug sitting loose, and i cant for the life of me find where it should attach to. Its unusual in that it has a rubber boot like it should be sealing through a bulkhead or something. It comes off from a branch of the loom and doesnt have enough length to make it near the firewall or anywhere where a boot would normally seal a connection. The plug inside is a simple two slot female plug. So, is anyone familiar with the loom on that side of an RB26 and know where it should go? Thanks guys, Kagan
  21. Electrical Issue After Battery Relocation So I've relocated my battery and everything seemed fine key on engine off. Interior systems function with no issues. I attempted to move the car but after about 10 seconds of running my wipers started going crazy (not even switched on) and a cloud of smoke emitted from behind my radio into the cabin. To immediately rule out and prevent wasting anyone time this doesn't appear to be an issue between the battery and distribution block i.e. Short in the long power cable running from the trunk to the front of the car. But where the distribution begins and the power is distributed seems to be the cause. So this is the setup (see pic). I literally cut the three wires off the positive terminal, a 2 gauge, 8 gauge and a 16 gauge (approx) (see pic). The only difference is I cut out the 16 to 8 gauge connector that came from the terminal (see pic). Now this happens to also be the power to all the interior items and looking at the first picture the fuse that's blown. So in conclusion looking at the distribution block (pic 1) this is the only circuit of those three that blows causes my wipers to go crazy and burnt my radio up. Is there a resistor in that connector (see pic 3 again) or could this distribution block be crap? I'll take any and all suggestions please.
  22. Hi All, I am hoping someone can help me with my Skyline GT250 2005. I had a flat battery failure and tried to jump start but failed because probably battery had died. I then connected another spare battery but mistakenly connected the wires incorrectly. Since then, it seems the electrical system is not working at all. Headlights, Immobiliser, Ignition nothing works. I called Racv and they replaced the battery thinking the battery was really flat but no luck. Can anyone please help me how I can fix it? Thanks
  23. Hi Guys, Other past 3 months I have had the central column (radio and heating controls) flickering on and off on my V35. A about a week ago it turned off for good. I took the car to a local auto electrician and was told that the central control module is shot and needs to be replaced. Apparently it quite common with a few cars these days. It my understanding this may include the radio and heading controls??? I am a little lost as to what to do next. Why can I buy this part from? Is it called "central control module"? Any advice would be very much appreciated.
  24. A couple weeks ago... The battery in my 31 had been on it's way out for a while, that and I hadn't started it for a couple weeks, so I jump started it and all is well. I leave it idle for a while, then turn the lights and indicators on to check they're all working, when the car dies after a couple minutes of flicking them on. I put a voltmeter on the battery with car off, it showed 11.4V - dead battery, no surprise there. Jump start it again and it's charging at 13.6V, but as soon as lights are switched on the alternator cuts off and voltage goes to 11.4V and decreases until the battery gives out. I noticed the brake and volt alert lights (top right of the dash) were on as well. I chatted with a few people and figured switching the lights on was stealing the excitation voltage from the alternator, causing it to stop charging. We figured a new battery would fix it - but it didn't. I put the new battery in and the alternator isn't charging at all now. I put a spare alternator on which didn't change anything. I also had the old alternator tested by a mate that's got all the gear and it's working fine. I replaced all the fusable links and had a breif look over the loom, and noticed this rather confusing event. Also got the voltmeter on the alternator plug. Alternator plug: small white and black wire 0.5V larger white and blue wire 11.5V Are those meant to be about that? All I can think of is a bad earth or perhaps a sticky relay? Anyone had this issue before?
  25. Hi everyone, I am new to the forum here as i have recently purchased my first Nissan. It was a rolling R32 4 door shell and in the last couple weeks i dropped a rb20, 5speed, and r200 into it and just working out the final kinks before it hits the road. If anyone has any ideas it would be great because i have been stuck on some of these for a while now. The first issue is that occasionally when turning right, all the electrical power is cut to the car and it stalls and gets itself going again. This is what i have done so far to try and find the issue. 1) Checked the loom in the wheel archs, no damage to them and the car is factory height. 2) Pulled the steering coloum apart and checked/jiggled anything i could find. 3) Disconnected the power steering 4) Made sure the battery terminals are good, and the battery clamped down. 5) wiggled any electical connection i could find, and nothing. A few things to note are; The car has had the rear subframe swapped and does not run a hicas system. The ecu has been disconnected and im running a r33 P/S pump. The car has an alarm installed which is working 100% but i have thought maybe it is somehow cutting ignition. The car seems to be using a ton of fuel and maybe i have a fuel pump issue and when turning right the fuel is sloshing away from the pickup. The second issue i have is a vacume leak near the rear of the intake manifold, i can hear it on idle and sprayed some soapy water today and although i couldnt see it still i could hear the note change. I have recently replaced the IACV so i dont think that is it, but i just cant find the culprit. The thrid issue i have is if i plug in the AAC the idle jumps up to ~1300rpm and i cant get it down, if i unplug it the car idles great and drives fine builds boost no problems but i would still like to find out why it is happening and fix it. I have also installed a R33 complete airconditioning system and need to wire it up, if anyone has a wiring diagram that would be great. Thanks, Zeke
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