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Found 19 results

  1. I've umm'd and ahh'd about posting this. Was going to post a review to Google and FB but I'm so over drama, whilst still wanting to vent a little I thought here might be OK. I’d like to share my experience with Keilor Park SSV (Street Sound Vision). This is a bit of a long read, so please scroll to the end for a shortened dot-point summary if you want to just get the gist of it. I've changed the names of the employees so as not to get too personal. This is more of an exercise in getting something off my chest and just sharing the value of checking reviews before entrusting anyone with your prized possessions. In mid-November last year I contacted Street Sound Vision to enquire about fitting an alarm system with GPS tracking etc. to my '94 R32 GTR. After speaking with the store manager "Bob", I felt comfortable to go in and discuss the alarm and feature add-ons as well as picking a new head unit to replace my old one. I brought in my car so he could have a look and give me a quote. We booked in for the 21st of December and I was advised this would be an easy one-day job. On the 21st, I dropped off my car in the morning and returned home. Later that afternoon, I received a phone call from Bob explaining that the car was ready, however I will need to go through a process every time I turn off the car if I wanted the Remote Start function to operate. This included some kind of button-press sequence before turning off the car and locking it. I thought this was strange and prodded a little further, explaining that I just want to operate my car normally and don’t want to have to go through a ‘sequence’ every time. He advised that for this, they’d need to re-wire the remote-start function to the neutral switch of the gearbox, which to my understanding was the correct way it should have been done initially. He said they’d need it over-night to finish in the morning. Fine. The next day I received a call at around 1pm to come and pick up the car. Upon arrival, I was shown the standard features of the alarm; arm, disarm, remote start/stop etc. which all worked perfectly. The new head unit worked and the Bluetooth microphone tucked up over the rear-view mirror neatly, I was satisfied and so went inside to pay the invoice, thank the guys and leave. When I jumped in my car to leave and put the key into the ignition barrel, the car did not respond. No cranking, nothing. I tried the remote start function and that worked, but the car wouldn’t crank with the key. I got out and called one of the guys (the one that actually did the install) out to have a look and his first words were, “It’s an old barrel and must be broken”, as if it was just a coincidence. Of course, I didn’t appreciate that and he agreed to take it back around to the workshop to take a look. I waited for over an hour in the showroom before asking one of the other guys to go and see what’s going on, he came back saying they’re having a look and will advise shortly. About half an hour later I was called to the back and they showed me the whole driver side under-dash wiring pulled out, explaining they don’t know what the issue is exactly but they’ve narrowed it down to the ignition barrel harness. Again, blaming the age of the car, brittle wires and possibly even the old turbo-timer. Apparently, we had to source a new harness from somewhere or repair the current one. I stated that there was never any issue prior to bringing the car to them, and that they need to sort it out. At this stage I was pretty frustrated and they said they’ll need it another night, that they’d look at it again in the morning and advise what can be done. The next day, I received a call at around 2.30pm advising that they know what the issue is, it’s been rectified and I could come over at 5pm to pick it up after they’ve tested it thoroughly. I arrived at 5pm, and something didn’t feel right as I approached the counter with 3 or 4 guys standing there. Bob said “Mate, we had a bit of an issue, but it’s all fine, your car is working perfectly now.” I asked what the issue was and he said that they had broken my key, but “not to worry because 'Doogle' had a spare GTR key and we got that re-cut for you.” As I stood there, dumbfounded and trying to stay composed, Bob explained, “I don’t know how it happened, it just broke one time as we inserted it into the barrel." Doogle then chirped in with “yours was a cheap eBay-spec Chinese knockoff anyway”, adding insult to injury. It's not a knock-off by the way. After explaining that Bob had fully rewired my ignition harness and it was now all perfect, I put aside my disappointment of my broken original key with the embossed logo (different to the raised lettering of the replacement which was either R33 or possibly fake itself), took his word that the car was fine and decided to just take my car and go home. It was Christmas after all and I couldn’t be bothered fighting over the key. I got in my car, put the key in the barrel and immediately noticed it was very tight. Turning the barrel required a lot of effort and my broken key suddenly had an explanation. Bob did mention the new key was “a little tight” and needed some wearing in, but this was ridiculous. I turned the key all the way to the barrel bump-stop and there was a 1-2 second delay before the engine tried to crank and failed. Normally the engine begins to crank before you even get to the end of the barrel. I backed off and tried again. Same thing, it would crank once and stop. So I held the key in that position and went through this sequence a few times until it finally turned on. See below video. IMG_5655.MOV Then my 4WD light came on indicating a fault/failure (they did splice into the ECU and the 4WD computer is connected to that so they may have damaged that connection). I turned off the car and went back inside and called Bob out who at this stage was speechless and swore black and blue that it had been fully tested. They were dumbfounded as to the 4WD failure and then Doogle once again thought it’d be a good time to try and explain to me that “as it’s an old car, the light might be faulting but as long as the 4wd gauge was moving under acceleration it would be fine,” as if I was some idiot that doesn't understand what I'm driving. It wasn’t working anyway. The next day was Christmas eve, it was currently 6pm and I couldn’t stay so I said I’m taking the car and will be back after Christmas. On the way home, I realised my climate control was also not working. No lights, nothing. Totally dead. When I got home and parked the car, I tested the Remote Start function and that did not work either. I tried the other remote and that didn’t even operate what-so-ever. To try and explain the disappointment would be impossible. The fact that they'd twice tried to pass the car off as "finished"??? Seriously... Summary of faults: 1. My key was broken and called a fake. 2. Car would hesitate before attempting to crank multiple times, sometimes unsuccessfully. 3. Ignition barrel extremely tight and difficult to turn. 4. 4WD light on and no 4WD operation. 5. Remote Start function not working. 6. Second remote not working 7. Climate control dead. On the 04/01/21 – I called and spoke to Bob and calmly aired my frustration. He told me they can’t see me until the 25th of January, which I rejected and said in that case I want a full refund so I can take it somewhere else to get fixed. He then agreed to take it in on Thursday the 7th to asses and advise. I felt stuck between a rock and a hard place as I had already paid them. If I hadn't yet paid, they would never see me again, but I had to try and keep things civil with them so they could fix the car. On Thursday I took the car and we agreed he’d keep it, look into the issues and try to rectify. Later that day he called me saying it was being worked on and the next day I received a call saying everything except for the 4WD had been rectified. Alarm had been removed and re-fit, turbo timer removed (previously discussed and agreed) as it was interfering with the ignition/remote start voltage. Car is good now except for my 4WD still not working. When I bought the car, the Attesa was not patched to the Haltech ECU. This was fixed, but is now mysteriously not working again. Bob said he’d checked the wiring and it all looked fine so wasn’t sure why it wasn’t working. As I had by now lost all faith in SSV, I did not pursue this matter and decided I will take it to someone that is familiar with the Attesa system. Whilst I appreciated Bob finally coming through and sorting out some of the issues, the overall experience with SSV was shambolic and, not only do I not recommend them, I strongly urge anyone considering their service to look elsewhere. The stress and worry I felt especially over Christmas and the New Year seems childish in hindsight, but this car does make me feel like a kid again, so I guess it just comes with the territory. I accept blame on my part for not looking into their reviews online before booking the car and taking it in to them. Since this experience, I've spoken to many people who've had similar or worse experiences with this store, and even their other stores. Very uncharacteristic of me to just trust a ‘big’ name in the industry without doing my own research. Lesson learned, let it be yours too. I'm not taking it any further with them but that's the last time I step foot there, and will be advising everyone I know not to use them if they need any audio/security etc in their pride and joy. Thanks for reading and again, sorry for the long burn. Short summary under the pic of my car. Short Version: • 21/12/20 – Drop car off to purchase and fit alarm system and head unit. Was advised later in the arvo that certain procedures need to be completed before ignition-off to activate Remote Start, but a way around was to re-fit to gearbox neutral switch. • 22/12/20 – “car is ready”: On pick-up, was shown features of the alarm and headunit, all seemed fine, paid and went to leave. Car would not start with key. Waited 2 hours while diagnosing. Blamed age of car. Left the car with them again. • 23/12/20 – “car is ready”: On arrival: My key was broken and called a fake. Car would hesitate before attempting to crank multiple times, sometimes unsuccessfully. Ignition barrel extremely tight and difficult to turn. 4WD light on and no 4WD operation. Remote Start function not working. Second remote not working Climate control dead. • Advised they can’t do anything about it until the new year. • 04/01/21 – called and spoke to Bob and calmly aired my frustration. He told me they can’t see me until the 25th of January, which I rejected and said in that case I want a full refund so I can take it somewhere else to fix. He then agreed to take it in on Thursday the 7th to asses and advise. • 07/01/21 – took the car and agreed he’d keep it, look into the issues and try to rectify. Later that day he called me saying it was being worked on. • The next day I received a call saying everything except for the 4WD had been rectified. Alarm had been removed and re-fit, turbo timer removed as it was interfering with the ignition/remote start voltage. • Car is good now except for my 4WD now not working. When I bought the car, the Attesa was not patched to the Haltech ECU. This was fixed, but is now mysteriously not working again. Will need an auto-elec.
  2. Hi, I’m looking for alarm and immobiliser suggestions for my r33 preferably with central locking as my car doesn’t have that rn. And also would the installation process be easy enough for a beginner like me? Or would it be strongly advised to go to an auto electrician to do it. Thanks
  3. hey all ive just bought a r32, When i lock the car with my remote the indicators keep flashing. Ive gone and got the door, boot and bonnet switches checked theyre all fine and they couldnt work out the problem. Anyone know what this could be? Thanks in advance
  4. Hi guys, wondering if anyone knows any reputable places in Melbourne that would be able to fit an alarm system/immobiliser/gps tracking in my 34? Had a look through some other threads and couldn't find any that give names of places in vic. Thanks
  5. Hi guys, I'm a little bit paranoid at the moment. Here is a background of events: - I parked my car and locked/armed it etc. - Eventually I came back to my car and noticed some shady looking guys waiting in their car parked behind mine (parallel parked - but with thier engine still running and headlights on) - they seemed to be giving me the eye. But I didn't really care to take more notice. - At this point I did not un-lock my car - because I was chatting to my mate and had no intention to leave straight away - we just wanted to chill outside the car. - About 15~20mins later, I decide to leave (the shady guys still with thier engine running) - I un-locked/disarmed the car via the remote - After about 5 seconds the guys just drive quickly away. I'm "suspecting" they may have have had some sort of scanning device - waiting for me to unlock my car via the remote, to "copy" the signal from the key to car. Which I imagine they could use to potentially steal my car. - Is it something I should be worried about? or just a big coincidence? Cheers
  6. For sale, Viper 881xp alarm. This was a top of the line, two way alarm with LCD pager remote. Bought this for $800 a few years ago but never got around to installing it. The alarm is brand new, in box, wires labelled and ready to drop in to any car. Selling for $350 ono. Can include shipping for the right price. otherwise located in Doncaster, Melb. As seen here - http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8284_Python-881XP.html features include (but not limited to): The Ultimate 2-Way Security and Remote Start Kit Super-bright Status LED High-Output Mini Neo Siren Silent mode Dedicated one-button start Turbo timer Safety shut down Timer mode Complete Engine Monitoring Anti-Grind Engine Checking Extreme Capacity Relay Satellite Tach/Voltage Checking Directed Video Compatible
  7. Hi everyone. I have just got myself a 34 GTR in original condition. So i will be needing an alarm system. Can anyone recommend a really good reliable one. that would be great. cheers.
  8. Mongoose M80 (pre 2009) security system help Hello all. Having a major crysis and in dire need of some expertise! I have a mongoose m80 security system which is a pre 2009 model. My remote is worn and had electrical tape over the buttons as the rubber button mold was broken. this has caused an incident where I had left my car for a day or two and noticed when i had to start it the tape was holding the button to disarm down that entire time. now my remote fails to disarm my immobilizer in order to start the car. so a brief summary of my attempts to fix this problem. replace battery on remote- no change. cannot disarm the system as I'm the cars 3rd-4th owner and have no paperwork anywhere for an override PIN as mentioned in the systems manuals. cannot re-sync the remote as it requires disarming. the siren is dead so i have no idea what "chirping" it may be making to represent a fault. checked all inline fuses on the module and in the vehicles cab and engine bay for good measure. budget to repair is tight as a nuns bum so cant just buy a whole new system until last resort. Open to suggestions as I'm ripping my hair out and mongoose help is only open Mon-Thur, but having to work makes it pretty useless atm.
  9. Hey guys, Up for a quick sale I've got a Viper 5902 Responder HD SuperCode SST 2-Way Security and Remote Start System & Speco Guages. Alarm has never been installed and is brand new, I purchased it a while ago and never got around to installing it. Please see Viper website below for all the info on the alarm. http://www.viper.com/P-5902V/Responder+HD+2-Way+Color+Security+%2F+Remote+Start+System $650 Ono 1x Speco Speedometer Model 520-00 85mm diameter. White dial, black markings, silver bezel. 0–200 kph scale. 6-digit digital odomoter. Data memory 5 years after power off. Clear lighting, 2 trip meters, LCD display. Operates on signals from either hall effect sensor, magnetic pick up sensor or ECU. $150 Ono 1x Speco oil pressure guage model 537-20 2 5/8" 0–100 psi electrical oil pressure. White dial, silver bezel. $50 Ono Part pickup from Melb CBD or can post Auswide Express post with tracking number for $10 0499991272
  10. Hi, I have owned my r33 gtst for a couple of years now and ever since i got it the first thing i noticed was that when lock or unlocking the car only the drivers side indicator flashes. I was just wondering it anyone knew how to connect it to the hazards ( the alarm is an autowatch 446rli, there are 2 wires that create a 12 volt circuit to trigger the indicators). My main problem is not being able to grasp how the hazards activate. Thanks in advanced for any help, Joe
  11. Anyone know of some good aftermarket alarm installers around SE Melb? Looking to get a viper security system installed.
  12. Viper 700vr I have a brand new Viper 700vr forsales. Open and was in the process of installing it to a 2015 Subaru just to realize it's been equipped with a factory alarm already. So it's still brand new except it's been out of box, some screws was used, speaker mount/bracket has been drilled out a bit. Price is $180, pick up in Braeside or can be post for an extra $10. This alarm allow you to use factory standard keys with remote. It intercepts the signal from your standard key so when you unlock = un-arm, lock = arm. Also comes with shock sensor. See attached photo. I'm no alarm expert so this is all that i can tell you, do your own research. Autobarn link https://www.autobarn.com.au/viper-700vr-oem-upgrade-security-system-700vr Ebay link http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Viper-700VR-OEM-Upgrade-Security-System-/111882189487?hash=item1a0cb2baaf:g:028AAOSwA3dYco1u
  13. Hey, Does anyone have the process of programming a mongoose M20 alarm? I recently bought a car and would like to play around to see if I can get the automatic door locks and stuff working? Thanks
  14. Hey guys, As the title states.... my 2003 V35 350gt alarm sometimes decides it wants to be active when I lock it, then sometimes isn't active when I lock it. Easiest way to explain it is when I lock the car, come back later then tried to open doors and alarm went off (great!) However when I decide to try it again and come back later to open door the alarm doesn't sound or go off? I have been told the V35s come with factory Nissan security however mine came with what I think is an after market alarm or immobilizer with a key fob? Have uploaded some photos as attachments with what currently is the go.. key, key fob, and a little switch and press button thing which I assume the fob connects to? Unless I am doing it wrong I just lock the car as usual with lock button. Don't really know what the use / how to use the other key fob and switch so any help would be greatly appreciated!
  15. Hi guys, I've been searching through the forum but did not find anything in relation to what I required. I was planning to go to Chris Rogers but found out on Google that he's shop is permanently closed. I need both an alarm and an immobilizer and someone trustworthy (and knows how to fix it well) to install it too. Car was recovered after being stolen and now mechanically repaired, need to have security fix and respray/vinyl wrap/plastic dip(?) done. Also anyone have a rough idea how long would it take to install the alarm and immobilizer? just an estimate is fine. Went to the ASIAL (Australian Security Industry Association) homepage but I have no idea where to look for those people as mentioned here "I'd rather choose someone else. Who can I trust? As a first point, I'd look up the ASIAL (Australian Security Industry Association) register, here." Thanks guys
  16. Recommended car security installer in Melbourne Hey guys, I'm just after some recommendations for a good place that does car security installations in Melbourne. I'm based in the west, but willing to travel for a reputable installer. I'm looking to upgrade the existing alarm system, and having a GPS tracker and kill switch installed. Any guidance/advice for a good brand of alarm is also much appreciated! (I've been suggested Viper by mates) Thank you in advance!
  17. Remote Start in a manual Hey guys, NKOTB here and not a Skyline owner. Although that may change! What I am is a professional car audio and security fitter for the last 20years. I specialise in remote starts. I'm not here to promote my business at all Over the years, I often here that you can't fit a remote start to a manual transmission safely. I'm just here to point out that you can do it safely and many Nissan owners have it the best way. I primarily deal in Viper systems, the way Viper wants you to do a remote start in a manual is by using the handbrake wire and then forcing the operator to do a secure shut down procedure each and every time you get out of the car. Unlocking the car later without starting it and doing the procedure again will cancel the remote start activation. Massive PITA. Here's a trick I've found that works on most RWD/AWD/4x4 Nissans with a manual box. Most of them have a neutral switch, for Skylines it's for HICAS and also AC idle up control. By using the remote starts handbrake input wire on the output of the switch (drivers side of the gear box up front in front of the reverse switch) you can safely put the Viper into automatic transmission mode. When in neutral, the switch outputs a ground signal, when in gear it shows either open circuit or a small voltage from the eccs. This will prevent the remote start from attempting to crank in gear. FWIW I did this on an R32 GTR yesterday and found the wire in the drivers door sill harness it was Green/Orange. There was two (both leading to the HICAS) so make sure you verify it's operation. I have found non-HICAS cars without this switch but they have a blanking bolt instead which can be removed and have the switch installed. I didn't make this post to discuss the legality of remote start or anything else... purely for a bit of essential useless information for someone in the future. Since I'm not a Skyline owner, I won't be checking this post for long but when I do I'll happily answer questions. Ciao!
  18. Alarm changeover R33 Hey guys/gals, Just looking for some clarification before i go ahead and attach the new alarm. Attached are some photos of what I'm dealing with and labelled to what I've figured out is going on. So I had a Mongoose Mx40MkII and is being replaced by a M20. I'm not fussed if it's worse or better than whats in there, as I've had problems with the Mx40 for years (one remote working at any one time, lock/unlock stopped working, randomly stop dis-engaging immobiliser). (wiring diagram images are new alarm left, old alarm right) Questions are as followed: What is the green cable....on the diagrams? (the one that runs to the turbo timer? there is 3 cables that run to the turbo timer, 12v+ on the red and the blue runs to the White with black stripe in the ignition? its not working with that one green cable disconnected) . And what do I do with the central locking? (there was only 2 cables from the old alarm, what am I looking for when I connect them to the green and the blue? (referring to top of left wiring diagram, where there are 5 options)) Any help appreciated, thank you. P.S can post more photos if it helps
  19. i have just installed my turbo timer and i bought one of those adapters so i didnt need to cut any wires, but my problem is when i switch the car off the engine still runs which is cool until the timer does its thing but when i go to arm the car only the doors lock. anyone know how i can interface the alarm with the timer or anywhere i can go get it done. any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated
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