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Build Thread

  1. Hey all. Restoring a plastic Altia body kit ive got and spraying it white to match my car, and had a few questions So I have been pulling the mesh grills off, ready for spray painting, and was going to re-coat the grills in Black. The grills are metal, not plastic, as some spots the coating has lifted and i can see theyre metal. It seems the coating on them is some sort of thick rubberised coating with a smooth finish. It’s definitely much thicker than powder coat and has a different texture. Has anyone stripped this sort of part back and re-coated it? What did you use to strip it back and what coating did you go with afterwards? I was going to try and blast it, but not sure if that’s the best option for this kind of coating Also on the black plastic “SKYLINE” section at the bottom, it’s obviously just raw black plastic, unpainted. Unfortunately there is a small scuff on it, what can i do to get that looking nice and remove the scuff? I also have a dent in the rear bar, seems heat has deformed it, i didnt want to just sand it back as the dent may be too deep and cause the plastic to be too thin in that area, how can I shape it back ready to light sand and maybe a little high fill? Lastly, on the rear bar are some “grill” checkered plastic feature bits that are unpainted, and have faded to grey. Whats the best way to restore them to a nice black? thanks heaps in advance!
  2. Hey guys. So my bottom end has a potential issue, engine comes out to drop the sump later this week to see exactly what, has a bit of a knock on cold start up that goes away. My heads were recently done due to a found exhaust valve leak, so upgraded springs and retainers, and upgraded drop in cams while it was out. Heads went back on and we found the bottom end was knocking at high RPM (not very loud as was heard through the knock box and ear muffs) when they were doing a dyno run with the new head on. Car hasnt been started up again since I have the option to purchase a freshly machined and honed RB25DET block, with a R34 GTR RB26 Crank, Nitto rods, nitto oil pump, new head studs, main studs, new main bearings for $3500, will need to get my own pistons though as he used the pistons for his RB25/30 build he ended up doing instead, and has had the built block sitting for a while and wants to clear it out. Block had only been assembled for test fitment of everything, then pulled apart so he could use the Nitto Pistons he had in his RB30 build OR Get my current RB25DET Neo bottom end fixed up, possible machining, new bearings, new rings, etc etc. Wasnt looking to do forged internals but could go down that track Was looking to make 300-350 rwkw for now, maybe 400rwkw, as I do have all supporting mods already outside the engine to go to that power (besides the turbo but will upgrade that while im at it) Will i see much of a difference using the RB26 internals? I know the crank has a longer stroke, what advantages will I see and is it worth just getting the almost-ready-to-drop-in bottom end and going with that, or freshening up my stock Neo bottom end? thanks in advance
  3. Hey guys, I'm back with another tutorial that I made (thanks to isolation). This is on a how to swap the RB25 bottom end to a RB30 bottom end with a 25 head in a R34 (R33s and R32 should be kinda similar i think) that I did last year. I had to split the tutorial into 3 parts (each part is like 15mins). It starts with preping the RB30 block, to taking out the RB25, and then putting in the RB30/25 and starting it. The reason why I did an RB30 swap was not because of an upgrade but because my RB25 was showing up bad results on the comp tests and there were cheap RB30s going around (I actually made money out of selling parts from the RB30 that I didn't need lol). The goal for this car is only to be a daily responsive streeter on pump fuel (won't ever take it to the track). It's my first time ever doing something like this (I had no help, did this on my own), so take it as a guide line. If I were to do this again, I would definitely use a proper engine crane and take the whole engine out including the gearbox next time, but yeah... this was a real poor mans job and it got the job done and I've been driving this RB30/25DET Neo everyday to and from work as my daily and I've never had a problem with it (have been clocking 5000+ Kms on it as of 10/4/2020). Here's the videos: Part 1: Part 2: Part 3: I'm really happy with the outcome. Considering I knew nothing about RBs or any engine before I bought this R34. I learnt everything from researching (a shit load) on these forums, so thanks SAU, here's me giving back. The car ended up making 323.8 HP on the dyno with my OP6 highflow turbo which is a bit too small for this engine. So I will go with a bigger one in the near future. List of mods on my car previously that I brought over to the RB30 swap: HyperGear G2 RB25DET OP6 highflow turbo with ballbearing 3" turbo back exhaust 100mm thick FMIC Splitfire coil packs Xspurt 525cc injectors HDI EBC Nistune ECU Z32 AFM Walbro 255lph fuel pump (hard wire mod) 98RON Exedy HD clutch External oil cooler Koyorad all aluminum radiator Just something to add here on the side if anyone was interested (kinda like a build page, but I might as well put it here). This was my whole budget explained: So the total amount that I spent on this build/recon/swap was $3415. I bought a complete RB30 engine (without the box) for $150. Apparently this engine was used in a TAFE course for mechanic students to practise timing stuff on, so the pisons had heaps of screw driver marks on. A recon was in the picture anyways because I want this engine to last for ages. So I only wanted to keep the block, crank and rods. I sold everything els (head, alternator, ecu ect) for $240. That's already a profit of $90 lol! The reconditioning of the RB30 block and RB25 head was the most expensive out of the whole budget costing $1420. The recon from Harris Engines in Perth: $400 - Bore and torque plate hone $190 - Face block $180 - Machine and fit crank collar $90 - Acid bath $90 - Face/deck RB25 head $50 - Acid bath head $90 - Face flywheel $150 - Fitment of pistons to rods $180 - Balance rotating assembly All other things: $270 - 1mm oversized Hypatec RB30ET set of pistons + Hastings Rings $253.45 - RB25 ARP Head stud kit (202-4301) from wolf racing $261.25 - RB25DET Neo genuine nissan gasket kit $106.49 - RB30 ACL race main STD bearing set $88 - RB30 ACL race conrod STD bearing set $30 - RB30 small end rod bushes/bearing set $99 - RB crank collar from Lewis Engines $38.75 - RB oil restrictors (one 1.5mm and one blank one) $38 - RB30 brass welsh plugs $13.71 - RB spigot bush $38.98 - RB genuine nissan timing belt fastner kit $41.5 - genuine nissan thermostat $78.14 - Genuine nissan R34 pull type thrust bearing $110.5 - Genuine nissan RB25 exhaust manifold fastner kit $43.2 - Dayco 94407 (T866) timing belt $72.11 - Mamba RB30/25 turbo water braided line kit $81.59 - Braided -4AN hose + fittings for the external VTC feed from Enzed $330 - Dyno tuned car by C-Red in Perth All of the labour except for the recon and tuning was done by me.
  4. Hey guys. So took my car to a local tuner/mechanic to get it looked over, showed low compression cylinders 5 and 6, they did a leak down test, showed exhaust leak was the culprit. Rest of the cylinders were around 160PSI on average. Only issue i had with the car was with the A/C on, when it was a really hot day, and car was warmed up, when the AC belt engaged/disengaged, the revs would drop a little briefly and before the revs picked back up it dropped enough to stall out, also happened occasionally when going from 3rd to 2nd and i did a slow gear change, the revs would drop and engine would stall briefly until i released the clutch and the engine turned over. With A/C off it wouldn’t do that at all. This particular shop unfortunately didnt have the time to do the work for quite a while due to some race events coming up and the cars they were working on for those, so went to another shop that had a bit of a shorter time before i could get in, and had good reviews. They took the heads off, got it machined, serviced, new head studs, new gaskets, upgraded the valve springs and retainers, upgraded the cams, put it all back together. Theyre now getting about 120-130PSI across all cylinders, car really struggles to start up, and is making only 180kw ATW on 20PSI of boost, and previous owner who had all the work/tune done had 300kw ATW when he got a dyno test done Is there something shonky going on? How can the PSI drop so bad across the 4 front cylinders that were ok originally?
  5. Hey guys! We're Junsei Auto Parts from Sydney and we remake discontinued interior trim, 1:1 identical to OEM quality. We've been bringing back discontinued interior trim for the R32 and JZA80 Supra. So far we've remade the R32 Stereo Fascia Surround and the Dash Defrosters, pics below 👇 We're here to ask what discontinued parts do you want back? Not limited to any Skyline! Drop your suggestions and we'll see what we can do! Check out our R32 parts here: https://www.junseiautoparts.com/collections/nissan-skyline-r32
  6. Hey guys. Need to get the head machined, as a leak down test showed some major leaking coming from the exhaust valves in cylinders 5 and 6. Im looking at upgrading the cams, valve springs, and they will replace the usual little bits and pieces as part of a head refurbishment. Any other things I should do while the heads off?
  7. hi there i got a HR34 and it stop start i dont know why when i try to start the car it crunk but did not start and when i stop crucking it i get a sound from the trriger ( 3 or 4 tiking sound ) with a engine flashing i change everything and look at the timming for the engine every thing ok i got a haltech plug in ecu this a video for what happening
  8. Hi guys I got a issue with my R34 GT-Turbo 1998, Semi Automatic for Months now but manged.. Regardless when the car is cold or warmed up, when I shift into Reverse or Drive.. the rpm drops and will stall. It starts back up again perfectly fine. Now the only way I can manage to bypass this is to give it a little gas right after I shift into gear so the revs won't drop and stall out on me. And also when I come to a full stop at a red light for example, the car revs would drop and sometimes stall too. The only way I can stop this is manually use the TipTronic and shift it into Gear 1 before I fully get to a Stop and it won't stall out. I forgot to mention most importantly that the A/T light flashes before I start the car up. it flashes 16 times. Now it also gets WORSE, lets say I attempted to "Drift" which I never have even done, but lets say I wanted to, for example. When I get to a Roundabout and start turning while giving abit of gas, the revs somehow holds back and the A/T light then comes on after I turn and the car will start going into LIMP Mode. So I would have to shut it off and start the car back up again and it runs fine and the A/T light is gone. The only way I can bypass this that when I get to a corner or a sharp turn.., I can't accelerate while turning at the same time all else the A/t Light comes back on, As I straighten the wheel back straight the Revs pick up again as if the car didn't allow me to go fast on a corner... I can't even have a joy ride anymore My power Steering fluid is full too so hmmm Now I just got my Throttle Position Sensor changed and cleaned the Throttle, I have also checked for any vacuum leaks carefully but nothing. I changed my Coil packs/spark plugs recently too, Cleaned my O2 Sensor, Cleaned the Air flow meter and checked for any leaks, cleaned the Idler Air Valve, Checked my Automatic fluid and its nice and red and on Full (also got it serviced for new transmission filter and fluid changed) tried a lot but still no good Now I can only think of Solenoids A & B or some sort of Sensor The R34 GT-T features : Stock BOV, Aftermarket Pod Filter, 3" Turbo dump pipe, Stock Intercooler, Splitfire Coils, Ngk Iridium Spark plugs. I'm thinking of getting rid of it after spending so much on it but still no mechanic can diagnose this for me. What do you guys think ? Thanks !
  9. My current project car is a '92 Supercharged MX5, I've been building it over the past 5 years but sadly its time to move on. Like most, my dream car is an R34, a GTR will always be out of my price range but I would certainly be happy with a GTT. I'd decided the MX5 would be stripped and sold in September when the insurance expires and then start the search for a clean R34. I wouldnt be a true car enthusiast if i wasn't already looking for cars on the interweb with this decision in mind. My fingers were starting to hurt after refreshing various selling and auction sites here and Japan too often. One car I kept being drawn back to was a white Series 2. It ticked all the boxes for what i was looking for, except it was the facelift front bumper that was preventing me from looking deeper into the details. So i messaged the seller and asked for a few more details and photos, very quick responses and the amount of photos asked on request was overwhelming. Was it worth the 7hr round trip to go look at it, to potentially not like it? If it was as clean as it was in the photos, something major must have had been up with it if i was to walk away. Luckily this wasn't the case, infact the car was even better in person. After a test drive and a good poke around i really couldnt fault the car except for a knock on the driver side rear. So with an offer made he accepted and I drove away extremely happy! The 170ish mile drive home was faultless and i look forward to digging in and putting my own stamp on it. It would have been rude to not get some photos, especially with the MX5 Nissan Skyline R34 GTT Series 2 RB25DET NEO 6 Manual Transmission Imported in 2016 by IBE Cars in Huddersfield,UK Resprayed in original Pearl White in 2017 Its stock except for a custom turbo back exhaust, HKS mushroom filter and aftermarket stereo
  10. Brand new, no longer needed These retail over $500-Asking 380 FPR2000 (there largest in that model) can flow huge power, only mod is AN3 vacuum port-Driven less that 5k’s bexley area
  11. Hi all, Clearing out some parts from my R34 GT-R. All parts are ONO/negotiable, and freight can be arranged for some parts at buyers cost, others would best to be picked up due to the size. Located in the ACT. Please either PM me or contact me on 0424 056 507 for any inquires, as I have more photos of parts if required. Cheers. Rear Diffuser - $1500 Has slight damage, but can be bolted to the car just fine with nothing hanging down or loose, and damage cannot be seen from underneath. Please PM for more details/photos. Complete Aircon Assembly - $1000 A-LSD VSpec rear diff - $750 This is an active LSD from a V-Spec Bonnet - $1000 Standard V-Spec aluminum bonnet Interior carpet - $300 Interior plastic trim - $300 Standard Cat - $100 Motul 300V 2L Chrono - $40 Motul 300V 2L Comp - $40 Standard Oil pump - $50 Rear tail lights - $150 Roof lining - $200 Spare tyre - $50 Washer Bottle - $50
  12. Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator $200 ono including postage Brand New, Never Used, Never Fitted. Selling as I didn't end up needing it for my setup. Fully adjustable from 28 - 85psi. It is a DIRECT bolt on upgrade ie no adapter needed and will fit sr20, rb25, and rb26 More info: http://justjap.com/s...248&cat=&page=1 R34 SMIC $100 ono Perfect working order. Comes with pipe & bracket R33 S2 AFM $100 ono Perfect working order. Purchased from SSS Automotive in August and still has 7 months warranty remaining. Includes plug. R33 S2 ECU $100 ono Perfect working order. Pins unbent. Good upgrade for S1 R33 R33 Stock Intake Pipe $30 ono Comes with original clamps (with the hole for the locating nipple) Pick up Blacktown area. Happy to post. Richard - 0421 202 823 Thanks
  13. Hi, Selling my stock springs out of a 1998 R34 GTT. Were only removed in order to fit King Springs. Chasing $80 or make an offer. Plus postage. Located in Dubbo NSW. Tim
  14. After 7 years of driving with no scrapes or accidents (i've caused) i've finally done some damage to my car Happened while leaving works car park, The wall i touched is a really rough textured wall which did a great job at taking off A LOT of paint. Seeing the damage makes me feel sick and i want to get it repaired asap, i don't have too much time getting multiple quotes and would like some help with a ballpark figure in what a repair should cost me as i don't want to get ripped off. My mate thinks it would be around the $300 mark but i have no idea... if anyone is able to help with a price range it would be great. The car is: 2000 R34 GTT, 2 door, Paint is QM1 (Cloud White i believe?), ~86,000km's Photo's below...
  15. R34 GTR intercooler $250 ono great upgrade over the r32/r33 GTR intercooler, will hit over 400kw do a search. Never got a chance to fit this to the car, as my mate sold me his old hks intercooler. Cores/fins look micky mouse and also clean inside. I made a blanking plate for the temperature sensor . Apexi Front pipe $250 ono 2 x 60mm into 70mm, made over 300kw with this. Gizzmo Shiftlight DSII $70 ono very small sleek form factor shiftlight, uses no buttons touch sensing and smd leds. Dual stage lights white and blue. The plastic mount has gone soft with heat so i used double sided tape to hold it firmly but gizzmo sell new ones for $5. Items located in Melbourne, will post at your own cost but prefer Melbourne buyers.
  16. Hi guys, I'm dreaming up a list of next mods once the weekender is sold. I've checked several threads like this and this but many of them seem quite dated - I'm looking for 2012 information. The car is an R34 GTT with basic upgrades: FMIC, full 2.5" turbo back, high flow cat, TurboTech V2 manual boost controller and Nistune. It's currently pushing just shy of 200 rwkw. I'd be aiming for a reliable 250-280 rwkw in the next stage, preferably without too much lag. I like the idea of a high flow as it bolts straight in. Is this power level possible with a high flow? Are there other companies besides GCG doing good high flows? Besides high flow, what are the other options when staying low mount? Something like a HKS GT-RS? Also I assume the basic supporting mods are a Z32 AFM, 040 fuel pump and injectors (what size?). What else is needed? Also I'd be retaining the Tiptronic auto, would it cope? What kind of overall cost would I be looking at? I'm not keen on doing engine internals, cams, or running E85 etc. Any feedback and recent experiences welcome. Thanks
  17. Hi everyone. Just wondering. has anyone attempted changing the tail lights on a 34 gtr. I have just got some LED ones and want to put them on myself but not sure if its hard work or not. dont want to start and then not be able to finish it. ha cheers
  18. Hey guys selling RB25 R33/34 na exhaust headers with catback exhaust No holes or leaks anywhere 2.5" pipes with highflow cat exhaust was put on by Pipewerx in Brisbane pick up in rockhampton or surrounding areas (will deliver if close enough) or can ship at buyers expense looking for around $300 ono or swaps for any parts of interest (check other topics) contact either through here or on 0458585306
  19. Hi all, Up for sale is a used OEM centre console black in color, with grey faceplate. Includes ashtray. In good condition apart from some scratches on the side and cigi lighter clip broken(common problem) but still works. Armrest is in leather and in good condition. Looking for $100 ono. Will post pics soon. Cheers
  20. I have an Apexi Power FC to suit R34 GTR, in excellent condition. No longer required due to upgrade but came out of running car. Does not come with handcontroller. $690 inc postage to any Australian capital city. Pics available on request. Located in Brisbane. Contact via PM or sms on 0402 421 437.
  21. hay guys im looking into buying a front mount intercooler for my r34 gtt. i want to make close to 300kw at the wheels with using the factory plenum. so im looking for the best cooling option eg shortest piping and not cutting holes. any advice will be great cheers
  22. Selling Genuine OEM R34 GTR VI front bumper and fenders painted factory nisan white. Also selling stock suspension Front bumper & fenders $1200 condition average Stock suspension $450 Please no time wasters, no response means not interested in your offer. Best contactable on 0422516046 Chris Wa - Perth
  23. Selling Genuine OEM R34 GTR VI front bumper and fenders painted factory nisan white. Also selling stock suspension Front bumper & fenders $1200 condition average Stock suspension $450 Please no time wasters, no response means not interested in your offer. Best contactable on 0422516046 Chris Wa - Perth
  24. brand new MYG77 plates (MYGTT) perfect for your r34 or whatever gtt you have lol the photo with the plates on are my old set. $700
  25. Weds Sport TC005 Racing Wheels - MADE IN JAPAN **Forged Japanese wheels** Lightweight under 9 kgs each** RARE in Australia!!! Sold by JDM Only Wheels sizes: Front: 17 x 8 +32, Lightweight = 8.6 kgs Rear 17 x 9.5 + 35, Lightweight = 8.9 kgs 5 x 114.3 ( Fits most RWD cars or AWD as used on Skyline) Condition: Gun metal grey color in Immaculate Condition, few gutter rash on the side of the rims (seen as pictures) Tires sizes: Front & Rear: 235/45/17 Condition: 2 need to replace, 2 had 80% treads left Retail over $2000, now $999 Located at Ryde in Sydney, Contact Albert: <removed> ** Flat Rate shipping available to interstate for $60 **
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