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Joni Boi

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About Joni Boi

  • Rank
    3Stylin

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth, WA
  • Interests
    DJ'ing at clubs
    Skateboarding

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T
  • Real Name
    John

Recent Profile Visitors

1,010 profile views
  1. Listening to my own house mix currently
  2. Are you talking about the BOV plumb back pipe that comes from the blow off valve and goes into the intake pipe? or the IACV pipe that comes from the J pipe and goes into the IACV thats sits on the intake manifold? (can't remember what ID their pipes were). Here's a pic of my catch can setup: So what you described is correct. My catch can only has 2 outlets, but if you have 3 you can connect both rocker covers to the two ports without joining them like I did, then 1 outlet to the intake. I don't think it matters what ports you use because the turbo creates suction, so the 1 outlet port will be sucking and the other two rocker cover port blowing (). I've left my PVC pipe alone. I'm pretty sure if you block it, your ECU won't like it. (idk)
  3. If anyone is looking for this coolant drain bolt/plug, the nissan part number is: 08931-3041A Costs like $5 brand new at a Nissan dealership. I'm pretty sure it fits all RBs (correct me if I'm wrong) and some nissan engines.
  4. haha I was going to replace that kettle and thought, hmmm... I'll use it one more time for this video.
  5. Yeah, I was actually ment to post earlier to say that there would be no other way that I can think of to get all that old coolant out of the block without un doing the drain plug. I was going to suggest removing the lower coolant hose from the radiator but the thermostat will be in the closed position when engine is cold. So the plug is the best way. Just get underneath the car like i did and un do it. I never knew nissan had it in a blue color. Mine was green. I just used normal thread sealant from loctite which you can get anywhere. I also bought a new coolant drain plug (Nissan Part No: 08931-3041A) from a Nissan dealership for like $5. Let me know how you go. Edit: looking back at this video, I can't believe I did that whole tutorial hungover lol
  6. I got my exhaust manifold resurfaced so I thought I'd make a video of the removal process. Let me know if it's good or sh#t. I'm no mechanic or expert in RB's (or any motors), I just use google and use my mechanical mind... Tutorial was done on my 1998 R34 GTT RB25Det Neo (Hypergear Highflow turbo with stock exhaust manifold).
  7. Hi guys, I'm after a manual cluster/tachometer for my R34 GTT, since mine poofed its self. Was looking at going for a nismo but waaayy to expensive and would rather use the cash for engine mods. Even just the PCD cluster board would be amazing. Thanks
  8. I only used it for the first flush. I suppose you can if you want to. I don't know much about radiator flushes, it's not like you need it, it just makes the flush process faster I guess. They're only about $10 for 500ml at supercheap
  9. I would assume the same as the coolant drain bolt: 34-44 Nm? I just tighten it and when it starts getting tight, just nip it a little. Won't fall out lol. You can put thread sealant on the sump so it never leaks.
  10. I bought new oil, filter and sump + washer bolt (from nissan dealership). Came home, jacked the car up, went to go unbolt the sump and f**k me, the bloody thing is stripped... Now I've got a problem that I can't be bothered posting a new thread about so I'm gonna post here. It keeps turning anti-clock wise but it won't come out, not even a little bit. $@!$$@!!! Previous owner or mechanic must have over tightened it when they changed the oil. I really don't want to buy a new drain pan. This is so stupid! I tried getting a screw driver under the sump to lever it into a thread but cant get a gap between the sump and pan. Also tried loosening and at the same time pulling it with pliers but no dice. GUYS, don't overtighten stuff!!
  11. Cheers mate I'll do that tomorrow. Anyone els want to voice their suggestions, I'm still open for anything els to try
  12. Oh ok, I thought turbolight was good for your turbo or something lolz, I don't know much about engine oils. But I'll try get something full synthetic 10w-40 like junkie said
  13. Hey guys I want to replace my engine oil in my R34 (RB25DET Neo). I've done some research on the best oils. Everyone has their own opinion on oils but the majority seems to be leaning towards the Motul Turbolight 4100 engine oil. So I went to a couple of stores to check if any has them in stock but na-da, nothing. Autobarn has 2 Motul oils which are 6100 synergie and 8100 x-cess. I asked one of the clerks at the store and he said that I should try Auto Pro, so I rang two Auto Pro stores and they both told me that Motul has stopped producing turbolights and that Motul has replaced it with Motul H-Tech 100 Plus. Is this true? Has anyone tried Motul H-Tech 100+? Is it really the replacement of turbolight and is it the same or better? Also, a store here in Perth has Motul 300V Chrono in stock which apparently is some high quality shit for if you're going to the races or something but it's $110 for 4L! And I only use my R34 as a streetcar and daily drives. I'm not planning on racing with it or going sideways. Will the 300V be worth it as a streetcar? Also, now that winter is starting should I look at buying a lower viscosity oil? What do you guys reckon?
  14. Hey guys I made tutorial video on draining and replacing the coolant on a RB25DET aswell as changing the thermostat: I did it according to what the Nissan R34 Service Manual says. My first tutorial, so let me know what you guys think.
  15. Never mind! I got it loose using a smaller 14mm length socket cos the first attempt with the longer socket didn't sit onto the bolt correctly (on an angle) How do I delete this topic? I will do a video tutorial on this coolant replacement.
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