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Joni Boi

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About Joni Boi

  • Rank
    3Stylin

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth, WA
  • Interests
    DJ'ing at clubs
    Skateboarding

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T
  • Real Name
    John

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  1. Thanks! I've heard some guys on here have gotten away with the stock R34 GTT bonnet. Mine is aftermarket (Z-tune fiberglass i think?) that has fins pointing towards the engine and they did foul on the stock intake plenum and throttle body aswell as the intercooler pipe running over the fan and it couldn't close. Because it was fiberglass, I just grabbed a dremal and hacked away on the under side of the bonnet to make it close. It barely closes now and is still rubbing on my intake plenum and pipe. These Z-tune bonnets come with a tray under the fins so that you don't get rain dripping on your engine. I can't run that tray so I just use aluminium tape to close the fins. I wish I could go FFP, only for the clearance and ease of service but they are out of my budget. The engine is now on the 10000kms mark. Been using the car everyday to and from work. Hasn't had any issues yet. Running mint as 👌. There is still a little oil leak coming from that f*c@ing!!! external shitty VCT weld which is causing my belts to be a bit oily which is not good for the timing belt. But it doesn't drain my oil under the dip stick mark before the next service. I will have to replace it and see what I can do with the leak some time. It really feels like it needs a bigger turbo. I can't wait to get a new one. I was thinking of hypergear's ATR45 BB? Just a simple bolt on to stock rb25 mani.
  2. Hey guys, I'm back with another tutorial that I made (thanks to isolation). This is on a how to swap the RB25 bottom end to a RB30 bottom end with a 25 head in a R34 (R33s and R32 should be kinda similar i think) that I did last year. I had to split the tutorial into 3 parts (each part is like 15mins). It starts with preping the RB30 block, to taking out the RB25, and then putting in the RB30/25 and starting it. The reason why I did an RB30 swap was not because of an upgrade but because my RB25 was showing up bad results on the comp tests and there were cheap RB30s going around (I actually made money out of selling parts from the RB30 that I didn't need lol). The goal for this car is only to be a daily responsive streeter on pump fuel (won't ever take it to the track). It's my first time ever doing something like this (I had no help, did this on my own), so take it as a guide line. If I were to do this again, I would definitely use a proper engine crane and take the whole engine out including the gearbox next time, but yeah... this was a real poor mans job and it got the job done and I've been driving this RB30/25DET Neo everyday to and from work as my daily and I've never had a problem with it (have been clocking 5000+ Kms on it as of 10/4/2020). Here's the videos: Part 1: Part 2: Part 3: I'm really happy with the outcome. Considering I knew nothing about RBs or any engine before I bought this R34. I learnt everything from researching (a shit load) on these forums, so thanks SAU, here's me giving back. The car ended up making 323.8 HP on the dyno with my OP6 highflow turbo which is a bit too small for this engine. So I will go with a bigger one in the near future. List of mods on my car previously that I brought over to the RB30 swap: HyperGear G2 RB25DET OP6 highflow turbo with ballbearing 3" turbo back exhaust 100mm thick FMIC Splitfire coil packs Xspurt 525cc injectors HDI EBC Nistune ECU Z32 AFM Walbro 255lph fuel pump (hard wire mod) 98RON Exedy HD clutch External oil cooler Koyorad all aluminum radiator Just something to add here on the side if anyone was interested (kinda like a build page, but I might as well put it here). This was my whole budget explained: So the total amount that I spent on this build/recon/swap was $3415. I bought a complete RB30 engine (without the box) for $150. Apparently this engine was used in a TAFE course for mechanic students to practise timing stuff on, so the pisons had heaps of screw driver marks on. A recon was in the picture anyways because I want this engine to last for ages. So I only wanted to keep the block, crank and rods. I sold everything els (head, alternator, ecu ect) for $240. That's already a profit of $90 lol! The reconditioning of the RB30 block and RB25 head was the most expensive out of the whole budget costing $1420. The recon from Harris Engines in Perth: $400 - Bore and torque plate hone $190 - Face block $180 - Machine and fit crank collar $90 - Acid bath $90 - Face/deck RB25 head $50 - Acid bath head $90 - Face flywheel $150 - Fitment of pistons to rods $180 - Balance rotating assembly All other things: $270 - 1mm oversized Hypatec RB30ET set of pistons + Hastings Rings $253.45 - RB25 ARP Head stud kit (202-4301) from wolf racing $261.25 - RB25DET Neo genuine nissan gasket kit $106.49 - RB30 ACL race main STD bearing set $88 - RB30 ACL race conrod STD bearing set $30 - RB30 small end rod bushes/bearing set $99 - RB crank collar from Lewis Engines $38.75 - RB oil restrictors (one 1.5mm and one blank one) $38 - RB30 brass welsh plugs $13.71 - RB spigot bush $38.98 - RB genuine nissan timing belt fastner kit $41.5 - genuine nissan thermostat $78.14 - Genuine nissan R34 pull type thrust bearing $110.5 - Genuine nissan RB25 exhaust manifold fastner kit $43.2 - Dayco 94407 (T866) timing belt $72.11 - Mamba RB30/25 turbo water braided line kit $81.59 - Braided -4AN hose + fittings for the external VTC feed from Enzed $330 - Dyno tuned car by C-Red in Perth All of the labour except for the recon and tuning was done by me.
  3. Listening to my own house mix currently
  4. Are you talking about the BOV plumb back pipe that comes from the blow off valve and goes into the intake pipe? or the IACV pipe that comes from the J pipe and goes into the IACV thats sits on the intake manifold? (can't remember what ID their pipes were). Here's a pic of my catch can setup: So what you described is correct. My catch can only has 2 outlets, but if you have 3 you can connect both rocker covers to the two ports without joining them like I did, then 1 outlet to the intake. I don't think it matters what ports you use because the turbo creates suction, so the 1 outlet port will be sucking and the other two rocker cover port blowing (). I've left my PVC pipe alone. I'm pretty sure if you block it, your ECU won't like it. (idk)
  5. If anyone is looking for this coolant drain bolt/plug, the nissan part number is: 08931-3041A Costs like $5 brand new at a Nissan dealership. I'm pretty sure it fits all RBs (correct me if I'm wrong) and some nissan engines.
  6. haha I was going to replace that kettle and thought, hmmm... I'll use it one more time for this video.
  7. Yeah, I was actually ment to post earlier to say that there would be no other way that I can think of to get all that old coolant out of the block without un doing the drain plug. I was going to suggest removing the lower coolant hose from the radiator but the thermostat will be in the closed position when engine is cold. So the plug is the best way. Just get underneath the car like i did and un do it. I never knew nissan had it in a blue color. Mine was green. I just used normal thread sealant from loctite which you can get anywhere. I also bought a new coolant drain plug (Nissan Part No: 08931-3041A) from a Nissan dealership for like $5. Let me know how you go. Edit: looking back at this video, I can't believe I did that whole tutorial hungover lol
  8. I got my exhaust manifold resurfaced so I thought I'd make a video of the removal process. Let me know if it's good or sh#t. I'm no mechanic or expert in RB's (or any motors), I just use google and use my mechanical mind... Tutorial was done on my 1998 R34 GTT RB25Det Neo (Hypergear Highflow turbo with stock exhaust manifold).
  9. Hi guys, I'm after a manual cluster/tachometer for my R34 GTT, since mine poofed its self. Was looking at going for a nismo but waaayy to expensive and would rather use the cash for engine mods. Even just the PCD cluster board would be amazing. Thanks
  10. I only used it for the first flush. I suppose you can if you want to. I don't know much about radiator flushes, it's not like you need it, it just makes the flush process faster I guess. They're only about $10 for 500ml at supercheap
  11. I would assume the same as the coolant drain bolt: 34-44 Nm? I just tighten it and when it starts getting tight, just nip it a little. Won't fall out lol. You can put thread sealant on the sump so it never leaks.
  12. I bought new oil, filter and sump + washer bolt (from nissan dealership). Came home, jacked the car up, went to go unbolt the sump and f**k me, the bloody thing is stripped... Now I've got a problem that I can't be bothered posting a new thread about so I'm gonna post here. It keeps turning anti-clock wise but it won't come out, not even a little bit. $@!$$@!!! Previous owner or mechanic must have over tightened it when they changed the oil. I really don't want to buy a new drain pan. This is so stupid! I tried getting a screw driver under the sump to lever it into a thread but cant get a gap between the sump and pan. Also tried loosening and at the same time pulling it with pliers but no dice. GUYS, don't overtighten stuff!!
  13. Cheers mate I'll do that tomorrow. Anyone els want to voice their suggestions, I'm still open for anything els to try
  14. Oh ok, I thought turbolight was good for your turbo or something lolz, I don't know much about engine oils. But I'll try get something full synthetic 10w-40 like junkie said
  15. Hey guys I want to replace my engine oil in my R34 (RB25DET Neo). I've done some research on the best oils. Everyone has their own opinion on oils but the majority seems to be leaning towards the Motul Turbolight 4100 engine oil. So I went to a couple of stores to check if any has them in stock but na-da, nothing. Autobarn has 2 Motul oils which are 6100 synergie and 8100 x-cess. I asked one of the clerks at the store and he said that I should try Auto Pro, so I rang two Auto Pro stores and they both told me that Motul has stopped producing turbolights and that Motul has replaced it with Motul H-Tech 100 Plus. Is this true? Has anyone tried Motul H-Tech 100+? Is it really the replacement of turbolight and is it the same or better? Also, a store here in Perth has Motul 300V Chrono in stock which apparently is some high quality shit for if you're going to the races or something but it's $110 for 4L! And I only use my R34 as a streetcar and daily drives. I'm not planning on racing with it or going sideways. Will the 300V be worth it as a streetcar? Also, now that winter is starting should I look at buying a lower viscosity oil? What do you guys reckon?
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