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Found 442 results

  1. Hi all, sorry if this has been asked before as I'm a new poster but I couldn't find anything after searching. I need to buy a new afm for my R33 gtst series 2 Rb25det (pink label) and I just want to know where I can trust to get one from as eBay sellers say there genuine refurbed etc but I'm unsure, cheers.
  2. Yo... So, after picking up an RB25 block and crank cheap on here from AngryRB, a forged short block build project has been on the cards for the last few months as I already had a lot of parts left over from the last engine build. Will be using Ross Pistons, and I had been leaning towards Spool rods as they will no doubt handle the 600-700hp the engine is being built for. However, after posting a review of the maxpeedingrods turbo I used recently, which I found to be outstanding value for money, I was contacted by MaXpeedingRods asking me if I had any projects happening and if I was interested in using any of their other parts. They make a conrod for the RB25, and loads of other cars, but unfortunately I couldn't find any real info on them as far as the RB/skyline community goes, although a few reviews and a bit of info on other forums, and a more detailed review here https://bofiracing.co.uk/blog/maxpeedingrods-cheap-chinese-rods-our-verdict/ No real horror stories found, (only 2 issues on a VW forums which seemed to result from a rod bolt failure, rather than the rods themselves) with most of the negatives I found seeming to be the ol' " no way I'd use ebay parts" which to me is an attitude about 15 years out of date. After seeing their conrods and comparing the specs to Spool, Scat, Eagle rods, they seemed to be very comparable, (if not the same but rebranded), and MUCH cheaper. Then after discussing with them regarding the product and what my upcoming build will be needing, they have sent me a set which arrived within a few days from the AU warehouse - nice secure box with plenty of foam packing, each rod in a sealed bag and greasepaper-wrapped. The rod itself, when compared to the stock rod, there's no comparison. Nice even finish across it, laser-etched marking on the big ends showing the final measurements, the caps are dowelled giving a precise fitment on the rod. I was a little suss on the genuine-ity of the ARP fastener but have confirmed with ARP, yes they are an official ARP product, made under license. The block and crank are with the rebuilder at the moment (but have confirmed, the crank and bores have measured up fine, so thanks AngryRB ) and I will be dropping the rods into them next week for the engine balancing, so will post up their feedback on the rods shortly.
  3. I’ve been f**king around with the lifters in my rb trying to get them to stop ticking. But when I’ve gone to put the cams back in I just realised it’s basically impossible to re seat the timeing belt on the cam gears. I know your meant to use the tensioner to get the belt back on. But to get to it is a bloody pain I’d have to remove my rad and harmonic balancer (which I also don’t have a puller for) and if possible would like to skip all that extra work. Does any one know any little tricks that I can use to get the belt back on the gears without haveing to use the tensioner. I’m guessing I’m probably just gona have to suck it up and do it properly but hey why not ask 🤷‍♂️
  4. Hello! Lucky me, I’m mostly asking this question to see if I should stop driving my car or if it’s okay. As I was bringing the front of my car off the jack, the frame slipped, and my jack pushed my radiation up up up up and cracked my fiberglass hood. It also bent my harmonic balancer pulley on my RB25DET where the power steering belt goes just a little bit, looks more like a scrape but does have a little bit of a bend. Should I be concerned about the pulley? I have driven for a day, did a couple of highway pulls in 3rd, cruises, everything feels okay, maybe a little shaky but it could be my own paranoia! Haha. Thank you!
  5. Hello! I’ve read multiple post on similar issues as I’m having but following their steps hasn’t brought me much closer to solving my issue it feels like. So, I created a new one! Issue: I installed a brand new alternator after thinking my old alternator was the issue but I’m having the same problems. The alternator is not charging the battery at 14v resulting in constant recharge to be able to drive it for another 5 days before the voltage gets too low that it can be harmful to multiple components. When car is off: 12.43V When car is on: 12.51V Diagnose: With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the negative probe to the negative side of the battery. Then, I measured all the grounds on the alternator while car is on. Negative Side of Alternator alternator ground to block: 0.05V alternator case: 0.05V alternator bracket: 0.04V alternator battery power stud: 2.5V alternator Battery power nut: 2.5V chasis to block where alternator ground is hooked up to: 0.05V Grounds around alternator: 0.05V With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the positive probe to the positive side of the battery. Then, I measured Voltage drop while car is on. Positive Side of Alternator Alternator Battery Power stud: 9. 47V Alternator Battery Power Nut: 9. 47V Rechecked grounds on alternator: 12.42V The 75Amp fuse is receiving 11.8v on the top pin and 0.01V on the bottom. Where I’m At: With the diagnose I’ve done I’ve determined that the grounds have a prettt good connection, the 75Amp fuse is good, but there is a substantial voltage drop of 9.47V. Question: Does anyone know why a voltage drop could occur and how do I fix it? Could the battery be the issue?
  6. Pistons/rod's that came out of an rb25det block. Never seen these one's before and I can't find anything when I look up the p/n. If someone can identify them it would be greatly appreciated.
  7. Hello my fellow car enthusiasts, here is the dilemma I just built my motor it made 403WHP current set up RB25DET Tomei MX8265 Turbo, tomei elbow, trust downpipe, test pipe 3” all the way back. 740cc injectors, R8 coil packs, 3”FMIC, Z32 MAF, HKS filter, greddy electronic boost controller, nitto crank collar, ACl main and Con rod bearings, all gaskets replaced. Stock bore running a Haltech, walbro 255 FP. anyways I had the car for about 4 days after the tune then it starts misfiring I never even had the chance to have it WOT to feel the power. The car starts misfiring swap the plugs out gap em @.8 it’s fine. Eventually the next day I start her up she’s running like shit again. I do a compression test and it was bad. I believe it has bore wash/glazed. #3 cylinder Does anybody here on the forum know the exact ring gaps for OEM rings? Do you go a little bit bigger for more boost? And if so can someone who is knowledgeable shed some light? Do OEM rings and stock pistons need bigger ring gaps for more boost? Or is that only for aftermarket pistons?? Currently pulling her apart again:( thank you
  8. My r33 S2 RB25DET has a rough idle after about 10 mins of driving when warmed up. It goes from like 200 RPM to 1000 RPM and some times stalls Ive tried to fix it by cleaning the AFM buying new coil packs and spark plugs. Car is stock apart from pod filter and front mount inter cooler also have a boost leak getting about 4psI could this be linked to the idle by any chance
  9. Hello. I bought myt skyline 4yrs ago. First I drove it thru winter (surprisingly good winter ride). At the spring stock turbo waste got stuck. Car was 3 months in the carage. I put kinuqawa bolt on turbo and cheap low mount exhaust manigold. It was rest of the summer this way. Then I planned to do some little changes at the winter. But as many of you know things start to get bigger. I start building rollcage and strip whole car down. When car was tripped it would be stubid not to do some things like stich weldin and sandblasting the body etc. I also wanted to do some wisual mods and strip everything extra weight out from the body. Rollcage caused some changes also. Like stock heater system is not fitting anymore. Rear subfame and diff bushes changed to aluminium. Rear and front subframes and stock controll arms got some extra strenght also. Bash bars in front and back wore made from scratch. Now car is going back to gether slowly and I hope to get it done before 2030 🤣 Here is some picks of it. More you can see from my ig @nuut3ro
  10. Hello, names Kyle long time reader of these forums as ive been looking for a r32 for a while now and I am finally a happy owner so thought id make an account haha ! Here is my 89” R32 gts-t (RB25det NEO) Few basic modifications/upgrades coil over suspension, exhaust, fmic, injectors, coils, TD06-20G Kinugawa turbo w/ external gate, powerFC having car tuned in the next week as it is running slightly rich and will have some numbers to share🙂
  11. Toyota Echo/Yaris Coil pack conversion for RB25DET Yooo, This is a full conversion guide from RB25det to Yaris/echo coil packs. In this guide, i'm going to try and include as much information as I can but please forgive me as i'm an electrician and not the best at writing. This is an insight how I did it. Please treat this as a guide, and don’t crucify me if you don’t agree on something I’ve done cheers. - Please read full guide before attempting coil pack conversion, cheers. First, bit of background: I decided to attempt to convert my RB25det to yaris coil packs, I found there's not a huge amount of information out there about this conversion other then people just selling "conversion kits". I found a few really good informative websites about coilpacks & wiring information (which i'll link), and a few photos of some rb's that have been converted, other then that I didn't really find any guide for it. I personally was on a bit of a budget & thought what you got in the conversion kits for the money plainly wasn't worth it. Why Yaris/echo coil packs? -Cheap (i'll include prices of what i paid for everything.) -Reliable -Don't suffer from heatsoak as bad as Splitfires or OEM coilpacks -Good for 100hp per cylinder -Easily attainable -Tried and proved method, common conversion for the 1j and 2jz boys. -Heaps of information around for them, including dwell times etc Part 1: First thing to do is get some coil packs and plugs, I decided to go for Toyota Echo/Yaris coil packs part number: DENSO 90919-02240, I went to 2 local wreckers and found 8 coil packs for a total of $100, depending where you go this might vary. I could have got 6, but for the money & the chance of me blowing them up, I thought it would be a good idea to get spares. A trip down to DIY Wreckers with a pair of side cutters looking for Corollas, Camrys, Echos and yaris’s for the 4PIN denso coil pack plugs, these cost me next to nothing, make sure when you cut them off you leave yourself plenty of wire to rejoin them. Part 2: Mounting plate After looking at a few of the conversion kits, & photos of finished cars this is what I came up with. I used aluminium 4mm plate. The 3 bolts I used to mount the plate to the cylinder head were 70mm long, same thread as the standard coil pack bolts that go into the head. I also got a 12mm long bolt the same thread to earth the head using an eyelet using the last bolt. Think they’re 10mm metric. Mounting coil packs to plate: While I was at the bolt shop I also got 6 x 10mm bolts 35mm long, with 12x nuts. I used the bolts from the bottom, up through the top of the plate & secured them with a nut, then with a washer & an extra nut secured the coil pack to the plate. I don’t have measurements of these holes, as I marked them on the car with a sharpie. Picture tells a thousand words: Wiring: Here we go, the wiring: When using the Denso coil packs, I found the wiring diagram and information about the coil packs on: http://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide [Pin 1] Earth / common ground: This grounds each coil to the body / earth, an electric connection to to the cam cover alone is not at all suggested. [Pin 2] IGT / trigger: The signal wire to activate the firing of the coil, triggered directly from the ECU's ignition output. These can paired with another coil for a waste spark connection, for example using two ECU ignition outputs to run four coilpacks. See the next section for more on this subject. [Pin 3] IGF / ignition feedback: Used by OEM ECU's to confirm the firing of the ignition coil. If a coil malfunctions the ECU will sense the lack of this fire confirmation and put itself into a fault / limp mode. This is not normally used at all with an aftermarket /stand-alone ECU and hence only three wires are used for each coil. [Pin 4] Power (+) / ignition power: This is the main power supply for all of the coils, this power feed is activated when the key is turned to the "Ignition" position. The most common and suggested method of connection during a conversion on a four cylinder is to remove the power feed from the original single ignition coil and use it to power all four of the new coilpacks. Pulled straight from SQ engineering, whoever you are thanks!!!! I’ll buy you a 6pack get in touch with me. Now that we know the pin outs of the Coil pack, it’s simply easy to just work out the skyline coil pack trigger wire pin out, & use the factory 12v plug to give them power. Coil Pack Trigger wire colours for S1 RB25det Cylinder numbering goes from Front of block towards the back. Cylinder 1: Blue and Orange Cylinder 2: Blue and Black Cylinder 3: Blue and Red Cylinder 4: Blue and Yellow Cylinder 5: Grey and Black Cylinder 6: Purple and White To join the factory trigger wires to the new coil packs, I cut the factory plug off the trigger wires, bought a 6pin water proof automotive connector from jaycar & terminated my new coil pack loom and the factory harness to the corresponding wires. For 12v i cut the factory plug off the original 2pin connector off your old coil pack harness & solder that to your ground and 12v, think the white was + and black/red was -. Use your multimeter to confirm this. The ground wire (-) needs to be doubled up with the ground from the 2 pin plug & also your cylinder head. Before taping: Finished product: Once loomed all taped up, plate and coil packs mounted. Drives awesome, no hesitation at around 17psi. This guide got way out of hand. F***. If anything seems unclear please let me know so i can edit, cheers.
  12. Hello guys, I’m contemplating to convert my RWD 425hp RB25DET in my 240sx to an AWD. I hear all I need is the AWD transmission and AWD oil pan. Well, plus the hubs and axles, and probably oil pan adapter plate. But is it possible and what are all the parts I would need? It doesn’t sound hard to do. I’m contemplating this conversion for safer all year driving, faster track time/ acceleration. Better performance. Could I just change my tire setup and increase HP to achieve close AWD performance instead?
  13. Hey guys I have a problem with my r33 GTST series 2, in every gear when I try go past 6k rpm it stops revving and starts back firing. I have changed the spark plugs, coil packs fuel pump
  14. Hi everyone I own a 1998 r33 sedan 40th anniversary that is currently running a 20e engine and drivetrain. I've brought a rb25det that comes with a r33 loom ect, I want to install the motor onto the 20e auto box will this work/last this will be temporary untill I have enough money to buy a 25det manual setup, I will be upgrading the radiator, putting in a trans cooler & will install a front mount intercooler. Cheers looking forward to hear your feedback.
  15. Hey guys, I’ve got an manual R34 GTV (the GT model with factory gtt lsd, brakes, suspension). I’m looking to do a RB25DET neo swap. I’ve heard that the GTV only came with the RB20 box like the GT’s, so I’ve already swapped in the RB25DET GTT box with a new clutch. The RB25DET I’m looking at comes with complete hot and cold sides, ecu, engine loom and alternator. Is there anything else that I need to complete the swap? Thanks
  16. Hi all, Since a while I have a real annoying problem with my 95 R33 gtst. It has a pretty much stock rb25det in it, stock ecu, steel turbo, fmic and a hks ssqv blowoff. My problem is that when I kick my clutch to stop for a stoplight or sth, my rpm drops down and doesn't catch it in the idle, it just drops further and dies. Weird thing is, the problem mostly starts when the engine is warm. When I just drive and kick in the clutch, no matter from what rpm it just stalls. When I have been boosting (somewhere in the trip) and I let the engine drop to idle rpm, in gear, and then kick the clutch it will (most of the times) still die. Or it will sometimes drop to 100-200rpm and then tries to get it back to idle but starts bouncing like a mofo. Sometimes when I haven't been boosting all the time (like, literally no boost at all) it will catch it to idle when I drop the rpm in gear and kick the clutch. (except when kicking clutch from higher rpms 2500+ rpm) I thought it was maybe a problem of the bov but I'm not that sure anymore.. It's also kinda hard to explain the problem. Anyone knows what it could be???
  17. Searched and search and it seems all the links are dead for this topic. So here is a LS coils swap wiring guide
  18. Hello! Nothing is wrong with my car, all gauges read correctly, the car fees responsive, and it overall is functional and great. However, with the cold temperatures, I noticed there is smoke coming out of my hood (the hood is vented) but I thought it must’ve been my valve cover filters that are venting to the atmosphere. I checked and to my surprise I found a whole substance on the exhaust manifold and turbo flange. I’m guessing it might be a leak? What do you guys think?
  19. Have a rb25det engine in a gq patrol currently making around 130kw, hoping to make around 180kw. Stock turbo is in need of a complete rebuild but has started to rust a bit on bolt on end, so figured I’d go for a new turbo, any ideas on what’s the one to suit, cheers.
  20. Hi I need one of these brackets if anyone has one for sale. It's the bracket that attaches to the side of motor on the exhaust manifold side. Holds up part of the intercooler piping. Thanks
  21. Got a basically stock 99 RB25Det Neo Stagea. Just recently had to replace all the coil packs because one had failed so I got some brand-new spit fires for the old girl. About a week after installing them stated to feel like the car was down on power a little when I got on boost. After driving around for a bit I could tell something was up. first gear almost felt like the car was NA with what felt like no extra power when I got on boost. Second wasn’t as bad had a little extra power on boost but still nowhere near where it was before. 3rd 4th 5th Also sort of felt off (But it’s kind of hard to tell in the high gears). To sum it up Car feels Absolutely normal driving around normally (Not getting on boost). But as soon as you get on boost there is no power. The car sort of hesitates and throughout the rev range the power will tend to fluctuate come in and out a little bit. I’ve been driving it sparingly for the last week and have also noticed that some days it feels like its NA with almost zero power. Others its not so bad. And one day this week the car feels almost normal. So, it’s a little intermittent. Not too sure what’s going on My first reaction was "it’s probably just a boost leak" but my boost gauge was still siting on 12psi like normal and I’ve got the reference line for it coming directly from the intake manifold so there’s no funny business going on in between. Other Thought was it had something to do with spark. so, I got all new sparkplugs and just got a brand-new set of coils. I just left the plugs with the stock 1.1mm gap and tested each coil pack/coil pack wire and plug to see if I’m getting a nice blue spark which I am. So that’s crossed of the list From what I can tell I must have something to do with fuel. Not sure exactly what could be only guess is dying pump, blocked fuel filter, blocked injectors. Note about 3 weeks before all this I used some of that liquid injector cleaner that you put in your fuel tank. possibly dislodged a bit of gunk somewhere in the fuel system and is causing issues?? I have no real way to test the fuel pressure let alone the whole system. Haven’t really messed around much with fuel stuff all that much in my time so any ideas or tips or tricks for trouble shooting would be greatly apricated. Could it be possible something is stuffed with the ecu???
  22. Hello guys! This week’s car problem isssssssss the fuel gauge is reading incorrect fuel level (always at full or close to full) I have an RB25DET wired to a S13 hatchback fuel sending unit. I have double checked that the fuel gauge is grounded properly and connected correctly. So, next step was to check the fuel sending unit which I found is reading 0-2 ohm in both fuel and empty. So! That means it is reading the incorrect resistance. Is there a way I could fix this without buying a whole new sending unit, perhaps a resistor? Thank you all!
  23. so have finally finished putting the box back together, but now it's all assembled and housings are back on, I have an issue where it's locked in 4th gear constantly and will only turn by hand in 4th or neutral, but the whole shaft turns in neutral, not just one end. It selects all gears fine but won't turn in any other gear. Before I put the housings back on I confirmed all gears select and shift as they should and all turn accordingly with the gear selected, but once the front housing is back on, it locks up. I stripped it back down to make sure hadn't made any error in reassembly and the syncros bearings etc all sitting as they should, and everything was fine but as soon as the front housing went back on, it locks up again. I haven't filled it with any fluid yet so I'm thinking maybe is there too much friction on the 4th syncro when it's dry? (although I did put a little grease on it on it when reassembling for the 2nd time, hasn't made any difference). This box was a 2nd-hander off gumtree so I never actually used it myself to know of any issue with it prior. At a standstill with it now so, ideas are welcome.
  24. Hello Everyone. Back in February my motor died, i'm pretty sure it was the head gasket but I'm no expert with these things. I've finally found a new engine and am having the swap done next week and need to sell the old one because I have no room for it, don't plan on rebuilding it and need to make some money back from swap. I will have more photos of the Engine once it is out of the car. These motors are getting harder to find, and they're getting more and more expensive. I've looked on Gumtree and other dead RB25's are being listed anywhere from $600 - $1200. I'm asking for $500 ono for the engine. Pickup from the Cannington area. Note: The Painted covers will be going on my new engine and it's standard grey will be going on the broken one. Also, I will have photos of the engine out of the car some time this week. Secondly, I'm also selling the front bumper from my car, as you can see in the photos below it's pretty thrashed, but i'm replacing it along with the new engine being put in, so, same story there. I'm asking $200ono for the front bumper (including the fog lights, which from what I've seen online are worth about $100) Same deal as above, pickups from the Cannington area, WA. DM me if you're interested in either, or if you have any further questions.
  25. Hey guys Is there a difference between the r33 det and de speed sensor as I can't find anything anywhere for the de version. Please post a link to a site or just any help would be awesome as I need the part to get my car on the road I own a 1996 r33 series 2 rb25de manual
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