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Found 330 results

  1. Hey, Wanting to know if anyone could post a pic or confirm how the shifter should sit in the hole in the tunnel. I have an RB25DET Neo from a Stagea with a cut down 4wd sump mounted with brackets and mounts that came with engine. Its in an R32 sedan that was factory auto, with R33 RB25DET gearbox using an “A” stamp gearbox mount. The engine and gearbox mounts line up with the factory positions perfectly but the shifter sits forward of the centre of the hole and looks too high. (Will get a pic asap) Cheers
  2. luwayy

    Hi, after a r34 rb25det neo engine complete with all bolt ons, wiring loom and ecu. the lower the km and unmodified the better. Prefer for it to be in Melbourne for inspection and pickup. Thanks
  3. Hey everyone. I just got a manual conversion done on my 1998 r34 gtt and now it is running funny. It revs very slow and goes slower then my na r34 now. It is still running the auto ecu. Im thinking that might be the problem? Or maybe the coils? Please anyone that has had this kind of problem let me know. Ps. Sorry if this is in the wrong part of the forums
  4. So just brought a power FC, go to plug it in and it won’t connect, laptop keeps saying “please check ecu connection”. Car start with it plugged in so it works, just won’t connect to laptop. Has anyone else had this issue and have a solution?
  5. I was curious what people used for the transmission support when using the rb25box on the R32. I noticed the rb20 box only 1 of the holes lines up, other than welding a new piece on, Is there a stock support that would do the trick. Sorry if its been covered over and over again, I did not see any info that would help.
  6. Hey everyone, I have a mystery problem that I NEED help figuring out. So 2 weeks ago I bought my first import a 1992 r32 skyline gtst type m, with an rb25det engine swap, overall a wonderful car that has been nothing but a pain in the butt. I noticed the problem the first night I drove it (learning how to drive manual on it) I stalled out at a stop sign and she wouldn't start back up. Ended up draining the battery and killing the alternator. Once we got those replaced I started seeing the problem as if I drove the car around for <2 miles and it either stalled or got turned off she wouldn't start back up. Spark plugs were fine so I assumed there was bad gas (smelled like bad gas) and I replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the fuel lines along with dropping and cleaning the gas tank. Also did an oil change with a new filter for the hell of it. Nothing changed. She starts up in the morning after sitting all night and if I drive her for a while she won't start back up when she turns off or stalls. Brought it to a shop that specializes in older Nissan and they said it was probably the PTU over heating and that I should buy a new one and plug it in myself so I save money. I just wanted to get your guys opinion on this. As I said the car will start up and drive fine but it's when it stalls after being driven that it won't start up again. Thanks guys!
  7. Hi all, recently bought a Nissan Skyline R34 GTT with the RB25DET. So far everything runs great, however I noticed that the sound of acceleration is a bit weird. I'm not sure what it could be. Turbo leak maybe? I included a sound file in this post. Is the noise normal? Also, during the winter I might want to do some checkups. Would you recommend to do a compression test, even if I don't notice any lack of power or blue/white smoke? Thank you! IMG_5469.mp3
  8. So, I've recently purchased a C34 Stagea with the legendary RB25DET engine. It was brought to my attention that I cant drive a turbocharged car on my green P's. I was un-aware of this because im from NZ and there were no restrictions on engine size there so it never crossed my mind. I'm also on green p's only because I am under 20 I transfered my New Zealand full licence and have my green P's until I'm twenty in January. So anyway I came to discover that I can get an exemption since it's power to weight ratio is under the limit. I went onto the raws website and screenshotted and printed off the details of the car, weight and engine power output. took it into the department of transport and they said they couldn't use it and that I need a letter from nissan stating the weight and power output. I emailed nissan Australia and Nissan Japan and they both said they couldn't help thats when i found the raws website but apparently that's un-usable, completely wasted my time waiting at the department of transport for nothing which is always fun... If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated! Dont wanna go selling it straight after buying it. Thanks!
  9. Hello Family, Ive put in my new Apexi FC and have done the timing on the engine via the commander until I order an FC Hako or Datalogit. The issue is at high revs around the 15x15 mark on the map trace i get misfire and I cant work out how to resolve this issue. Its always on the same spot so I started messing with the fuel map on the commander. I dont understand what the numbers are a reference to on the inj map. What does 1.00 reference too? I guess it means 1.00 = 0.00; above 1.00 = more fuel but how much is too much how little is too little? Why do the numbers stop at ~1.4 - they must be referenced to something and I cant find anything on the net. So basically its misfiring and i want to decrease the fuel because i think its too high ~1.30 which i did but it made little to no difference same as increasing the fuel.. anyone got any ideas? Thanks
  10. Hey guys, this is my first post on these forums. So I’m building a rb25det and I have an aftermarket billet intake with a 90mm throttle body. Iv mocked it all up and the TPS hits the fuse box. I’d rather not relocate the fuse box so Iv noticed that I am able to rotate it 90 degrees. Will this effect performance in anyway? Cheers
  11. Hi first time posting on here after many hours of reading trying to sort my r33 Okay its a r33 rb25 series 2 and it randomly starts misfiring really bad, it will splutter, or if on full throtle it will completely hit a flat spot again and again and it even cuts out at times. Plugs are fine replaced the cheap ebay coilpacks to stock ones and even replaced the cas, was thinking harness but when running you can pull on it and it wont missfire. Thing is it does it randomly like on a few odd ocasions it will run absolutely mint no problems at all then it will run so shit like some days it will cut out over and over again...want to get to thw bottom of this, any help is really apreciated
  12. Hi guys, I decided to start my build thread here at SAU.com.au as mentioned in my introduction thread a few weeks ago. The car was imported from Japan in 2014. Completely OEM (RB25DET NEO, AT, Sedan, KR4, built in 1998, 50220km). No modifications were made, which was very important for me. A few scratches and small dents here and there... nothing special. Due to the standards for registration here in Germany several things had to be done. This includes new lenses with an e-number (certified registration within the EU) for the headlights, a rear fog-lamp and new tires with an e-number, too. After that the car was ready for German streets. In 2015 I bought a new Blitz Nur Spec RX as a replacement for the factory one and Nismo indicators. It was a little strange to me that all the stickers (timing belt change, oil change, ...) were removed. And now comes the very - and with very I really mean fu**ing very very very very - bad thing about the car... The odometer reading was manipulated. During the change of the air purifier I've found a small sticker in the glovebox which says "Filter change at 86.xxx km" and a Japanese date (April/May 2009). Via the page japaneseodometercheck.com I figured out the correct odometer reading, which was around 100.218km at the time I bought the car. After that I decided to check the compression ratio of the engine. Well... guess what? Yes! They were not as good as expected. In this moment I thought "God damn it! Let's drive the car intil the engine doesn't work anymore. Fu** off!". To my astonishment the engine survived 2015 and 2016. During the off season (October 2015 until April 2016) the transmission was swapped from AT to MT with parts of an wrecked ER34. I've done this by myself because I wanted to widen my skills and knowledge. (That buddy really grew me some grey hair :D) From March 2017 until August 2017 the engine was completely overhauled. Due to that process some aftermarket parts were fitted as well. The car now looks like this: Let's see what will happen to it in 2018. A few parts are stored in my garage... If you want me to post my spec list just let me know. Regards Michael
  13. RB25DET Crankshaft with extended oil collar I have a crankshaft out of a series 2 RB25DET (R33 GTST S2) for sale. Price is $500. The crank was machined by "The Crankshaft Specialist" last year, including crack testing, machining all journals, fitting an extended oil pump drive collar, and drilling & grub-screwing oil passage plugs to allow cleaning of passages. The crank was inspected & linished again late last year, after a turbo failure. Included are a set of main & big-end bearings that have done almost no work, and are sized to suit the machined journals. Machine work & collar would cost more than the asking price. Price is for crankshaft & bearings only - cradle shown in photo isn't included. We have gone RB25/30 so no further use for this.
  14. I got my exhaust manifold resurfaced so I thought I'd make a video of the removal process. Let me know if it's good or sh#t. I'm no mechanic or expert in RB's (or any motors), I just use google and use my mechanical mind... Tutorial was done on my 1998 R34 GTT RB25Det Neo (Hypergear Highflow turbo with stock exhaust manifold).
  15. for sale is rb25det gearbox which came off a s2 r33 with 130xxxkm. I bought it about a month ago to put into my 34 gtt which i blew the gearbox in, but decided to sell since because ill be going overseas for 3 months so the gearbox can wait for now as i wont be driving it anyway and would rather have the vacation money. Will also come with a twin plate clutch, dont know what brand, i think it might be ORC. Pick up casula. Serious buyers message or call me 0424 145 383 asking $1500 with twin plate clutch
  16. Hi, are there any differences between the MAFs on non turbo and turbo skylines (RB25DE VS RB25DET)??? I suspect the MAF is knackered on my non turbo R33. Also what's difference between the green and pink labelled ones? I've tried searching but can't find much info and a straight answer. I recently brought the car and it has some major performance issues. I know non turbos are slow but mine is ridicilous. Honestly, it feels like it's got 80bhp max and that a 1liter Toyota Yaris would easily beat it lol. I've also been in a stock 2liter RB20e R33 with an exhaust and even that was twice as fast... It was parked up for a while so I serviced the car, changed oil, oil/fuel filter and sparkplugs. It gained alot of power but not as good as it should be. It had a broken cone filter fitted so I replaced it with a stock airbox+ filter but the car has lost power again but saw that the MAF was broken and the top has been taped up to hold it together. I pulled some of the tape off earlier so suspect that may be the cause and since then, it idles abit rough sometimes aswell but a little tap to bring to revs up sorts it out. Also the car has massive 3.5" straight though exhaust which I'm sure it's making me lose a huge amount of power. Am I right in believing that the ideal size should be 2.25 or 2.5" or wouldn't the exhaust make much difference?
  17. Z'd_up74RB

    Hey everyone what's going on, new to the community hoping to be able to help an get help always up to meeting fellow gear heads so let the builds begin I'm Doug by the way Z'd_up74rb
  18. Besides the exhaust, here are all the parts I intend to buy to complete my stage 1 r33 build. The car is currently stock. Is there anything else I should buy or replace for something else on this list? This is a budget build but I also don’t want to cut any corners so any tips would help. I am sure I am missing some parts, especially with the bigger fuel pump. Thank you
  19. hey guys need advice with a Freddy FFP i have tried to search for this however have no luck finding a clear answer I purchased the FFP to suit RB25DET and fuel rail off eBay not long ago and the issue is i am not 100% sure what injectors to buy to suit/fit the rail ( i want around 1250cc e85 safe) on the ad for the FFP it states that "11mm injector" is any other hardware required for fitting the injectors in the rail? thanks in advance photos for reference
  20. Hello, I have owned a bone stock 96' 4 door ECR33 with LESS THAN 20K miles for about a year now and I have finally decided to give it some upgrades. I bought a super clean set of R33 GTR wheels for a steal and I have decided to follow a stage 1 guide I have seen floating around on this forum and others. I have found everything I want EXCEPT an exhaust. I want to know what I should run from the trubo allllll the way back. I havent really worked on a car in this manner before so please be specific. Any suggestions? I also want to know what measures I should take to avoid common problems with my engine. I have heard the rb25det has an oil issue but i dont know much about it or other problems. Thank you from Okinawa, Japan
  21. R34 rocket bunny sedan

    rb25de+t

    OK so need some help please people just turbod my na r34 and am checking if what it's doing is OK before my tune on Thursday OK so I'll start with parts I'm running... And post problem last Rb25de neo R33 5speed gearbox conversion Was using rb25 one but think was near dead New rb25turbo hasn't arrived yet R33 turbo manifold Gtt injectors R32gtst4det fuel pump Power FC ecu stock gtt base tune atm Big front mount cooler Turbo smart bleed valve New 3"pipe decat and r32 custom dump R34na 02sensor R32gtst4det afm I wired in also tried 34 na one OK so my problem is it misses bad under boost only.. disconnect turbo runs sweet can this be my ign timing when boosting? Just want it all good and ready for my first tune as never had one what should I get done in the tune and what boost 5? And just get fuel/air and some timing pulled/retard etc...also haven't tried yet as my new turbo is on its way but the one I was using was blowing smoke and whining and no matter what it was stuck on 7-8 psi my hand controller wouldn't turn it down so waste gate? Over boost could've been the problem?
  22. Bought it a couple months ago but have decided to go twin plate. Clutch has plenty of meat on it, owner told me he used for 10000km, i never installed it on the car or used it. The pressure plate has been reinforced and has a load rating of 1100kg. Any questions pm me. Price $320
  23. Hey guys, My car ( series 2 r33 gts-t) has been making this strange farting noise anytime it's over 3000 rpm and under boost. Doesn't seem to be there if I just cruise up to 4-5000rpm slowly but when it starts boosting is when I have the issues (the rpm's go up but doesnt feel like it's pulling harder at all) I have attached two (shitty) videos of my attempting to capture it on video. You may need headphones but it's right at the end of each little pull. Some other symptoms I've notice which may be related: -Terrible fuel economy (i get around 280km out of a tank!) -Slight smell of fuel when starting the car (most the time) - Massive decrease in power (Noticeably worse with A/C on) Car seems to pick up quickly for a second and then goes really sluggish. Also worth mentioning that the sound appears to be coming from somewhere between the middle and drivers side of engine bay. Ive attached this video link from a previous post because it shows the sound better than mine: https://youtu.be/UmogggtKUd8 A lot of people say it could be the GTR blow off valve (I had one installed) what are the chances that could cause all my symptoms? The car only has exhaust, front mount, pod filter, splitfires and all the other usual noob mods. Thanks for the help! and apologies for the longer than expected post 😊 - IMG_6486.MOV IMG_6487.MOV
  24. R34 rocket bunny sedan

    Ok need help peeps about to turbo my r34 na rb25de running auto ecu just converted to Manuel can i use auto na ecu and piggyback a emanage ecu for timing fuel and air etc seen people saying auto box gives out etc as ecu for box is 1 aswell but im manuel now? Do i need a nistune or no? Stock boost gtt injecters 255pump etc ?
  25. Hi guys. WTB a set of 550cc or larger side feed injectors for my s1 r33 gtst. They must be genuine and fit the stock fuel rail. Located in SE Melbourne. I also have a set of 850cc modified bosch top feed injectors for swap. Thank you.