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Found 338 results

  1. M Rizk

    I'm planning on building a RB25DET for my S15, and I'm aiming for the 600 -700hp mark, and I have no idea what diff I should run since I'm fairly certain my stock one won't handle the power The car is a 1999 Nissan S15 Silvia
  2. Need a new Condenser and Compressor, for my R34 GTT. Anyone know a wreckers or somewhere available with these parts "off the shelf". Melbourne Area. Cheers in advance
  3. R32Dan89

    1993 r32 gtst nissan skyline $16000 located in Alexandra hills QLD Mods list Engine Rb25det (mod plated ) Nismo engine mounts Yaris coil packs 1000cc injectors Catch can setup with an fittings Link storm black ecu with full custom wiring loom Engine oil cooler mount inside front bar Custom install front mount intercooler 3 row radiator with twin thermos, controlled by ecu Turbo T04e turbo with turbosmart actuator All new multilayer manifold gaskets and new stud/nuts Fuel system 3 044 fuel pumps, 1 in tank and 2 off the surge tank. An fittings on all engine bay fuel system Fuel reg Driveline Rb25det manual gearbox with cube short shifter Exedy brass button clutch ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts Nismo gearbox mount Custom tail shaft Nismo 2 way diff (mod plated ) Suspension Tien coilovers Adjustable front and rear camber arms White line sway bars front and rear Rear strut brace Wheels 18 x 9.5 aodhan wheels New kuhmo rear tyres Body Clean body with very few blemishes Full type m body kit Also have a standard r32 bumper Gtr wing Interior Roll cage (mod plated ) R33 seats No rear seats or rear interior (mod plated) Oil pressure and temp gauges mounted in dash center Pioneer head unit New rockford foscate 5 x 7 speakers omp deep dish steering wheel Shift light wired into ecu Probably heaps of things I’ve forgotten about. Possibly swaps for a euro like a bmw 335i, 328i, Audi, vw, Mercedes. Not interested in any holdens, fords, jmd or front wheel drive cars so don’t ask! Will include personalised plates
  4. Fridge_repair_man

    Hey guys trying to get some advice for where to go with problem solving on my stagea, its one of the dreaded 08/97 built cars that have an ecu they ran for only one month apparently. pretty much the problem is the car is idle hunting badly running rich and rarely but sometimes stalling at idle and then under power it will stutter and cut out untill i clutch out taking load off. The previous owner had it manual swapped from an auto and the issues started from there as i found from the mechanic who serviced it. if someone could help with a pin out sheet or advice on which ecu to go with or if theres. Something i should replace i would much appreciate it.
  5. Hey everyone, for the life of me i cant find a diagram for a rb26det neo. I have noticed im missing this vacuum line and i cannot find where it is meant to go. Thank you
  6. Hey everyone. I just got a manual conversion done on my 1998 r34 gtt and now it is running funny. It revs very slow and goes slower then my na r34 now. It is still running the auto ecu. Im thinking that might be the problem? Or maybe the coils? Please anyone that has had this kind of problem let me know. Ps. Sorry if this is in the wrong part of the forums
  7. So just brought a power FC, go to plug it in and it won’t connect, laptop keeps saying “please check ecu connection”. Car start with it plugged in so it works, just won’t connect to laptop. Has anyone else had this issue and have a solution?
  8. Hey guys. Have been putting this off, but regretfully needs to be done. Selling my 97 C34 Stagea RSFour. Located in St Kilda. It's on TAS rego with custom plates which I'm hoping to keep and sell separately. I'm open to negotiations as far as how we go about transferring it to you, depending on sale price etc. Eg I sell it unregistered to you, but drive it to yours before taking the plates off so you don't need to truck/trailer it. Willing to figure it out with whoever buys it, there's a few options. I'm after $8k as-is, with no plates/rego/rwc. The good: - Very straight and tidy, inside and out. - Nismo-rep bodykit (minus front bar which is stock with a lip). - Rota 17" TE reps with good Dunlop SP Sport. - BC Coilovers. - FMIC, boost controller, turbo timer. - Exhaust - Decent stereo, Clarion VZ402A with flip up screen, mp3/bluetooth/dvd/etc, Pioneer sub in Pioneer box, etc. - Has the sought after original floor mats, cargo net, and rear cargo cover. Also has various spare parts. - Various other bits and pieces, A pillar boost gauge, quick release battery terminals, etc. The bad: - Brake booster is shot, needs replacing. Comes with a spare that needs rebuilding, so you have 2 to work with and figure it out. - Needs an O2 sensor. Drives fine, but has some mid-range weirdness. - It's been sitting a while due to next bit below, so battery is dead, but when trickle-charged/jumped it starts up first go every time and purrs. I have quite serious medical issues, and am effectively bed-bound. Due to these issues, I'm also flat broke, so while the issues are small, I can't afford to fix them before sale. I think the price is fair in reflection of that, but I'm open to some negotiation for a quick/easy sale. In saying that, I'm not entertaining stupid offers. It's a solid car that just needs someone to love it again. This also means I can't meet anywhere, and it can only be looked at here in St Kilda. No test drives outside of around our underground car park due to the brakes, but you're more than welcome to inspect it as close as you want. It's an honest car and a very VERY regretful sale.
  9. Hey I have a 95 s14 Rb25det with a rs Enthalpy tuned 300zx ecu with wiring specialties harness, my car is having a maf problem, here is a video of what is currently doing. Any input will help Thank you Brandan 56D307D3-CF20-44D5-AAC9-8CC824993505.MOV
  10. Hey so we found out that the car is being flooded with gas after stalling or being driven around a lot, the plugs were soaked after testing it. So sounds like things aren't getting hot enough in the ignition system, do you think it needs new plugs and coilpacks? if so what types should I get? I've heard about people running ls1 coilpacks in the rb25
  11. luwayy

    Hi, after a r34 rb25det neo engine complete with all bolt ons, wiring loom and ecu. the lower the km and unmodified the better. Prefer for it to be in Melbourne for inspection and pickup. Thanks
  12. Hey, Wanting to know if anyone could post a pic or confirm how the shifter should sit in the hole in the tunnel. I have an RB25DET Neo from a Stagea with a cut down 4wd sump mounted with brackets and mounts that came with engine. Its in an R32 sedan that was factory auto, with R33 RB25DET gearbox using an “A” stamp gearbox mount. The engine and gearbox mounts line up with the factory positions perfectly but the shifter sits forward of the centre of the hole and looks too high. (Will get a pic asap) Cheers
  13. I was curious what people used for the transmission support when using the rb25box on the R32. I noticed the rb20 box only 1 of the holes lines up, other than welding a new piece on, Is there a stock support that would do the trick. Sorry if its been covered over and over again, I did not see any info that would help.
  14. Hey everyone, I have a mystery problem that I NEED help figuring out. So 2 weeks ago I bought my first import a 1992 r32 skyline gtst type m, with an rb25det engine swap, overall a wonderful car that has been nothing but a pain in the butt. I noticed the problem the first night I drove it (learning how to drive manual on it) I stalled out at a stop sign and she wouldn't start back up. Ended up draining the battery and killing the alternator. Once we got those replaced I started seeing the problem as if I drove the car around for <2 miles and it either stalled or got turned off she wouldn't start back up. Spark plugs were fine so I assumed there was bad gas (smelled like bad gas) and I replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the fuel lines along with dropping and cleaning the gas tank. Also did an oil change with a new filter for the hell of it. Nothing changed. She starts up in the morning after sitting all night and if I drive her for a while she won't start back up when she turns off or stalls. Brought it to a shop that specializes in older Nissan and they said it was probably the PTU over heating and that I should buy a new one and plug it in myself so I save money. I just wanted to get your guys opinion on this. As I said the car will start up and drive fine but it's when it stalls after being driven that it won't start up again. Thanks guys!
  15. Hi all, recently bought a Nissan Skyline R34 GTT with the RB25DET. So far everything runs great, however I noticed that the sound of acceleration is a bit weird. I'm not sure what it could be. Turbo leak maybe? I included a sound file in this post. Is the noise normal? Also, during the winter I might want to do some checkups. Would you recommend to do a compression test, even if I don't notice any lack of power or blue/white smoke? Thank you! IMG_5469.mp3
  16. So, I've recently purchased a C34 Stagea with the legendary RB25DET engine. It was brought to my attention that I cant drive a turbocharged car on my green P's. I was un-aware of this because im from NZ and there were no restrictions on engine size there so it never crossed my mind. I'm also on green p's only because I am under 20 I transfered my New Zealand full licence and have my green P's until I'm twenty in January. So anyway I came to discover that I can get an exemption since it's power to weight ratio is under the limit. I went onto the raws website and screenshotted and printed off the details of the car, weight and engine power output. took it into the department of transport and they said they couldn't use it and that I need a letter from nissan stating the weight and power output. I emailed nissan Australia and Nissan Japan and they both said they couldn't help thats when i found the raws website but apparently that's un-usable, completely wasted my time waiting at the department of transport for nothing which is always fun... If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated! Dont wanna go selling it straight after buying it. Thanks!
  17. Hello Family, Ive put in my new Apexi FC and have done the timing on the engine via the commander until I order an FC Hako or Datalogit. The issue is at high revs around the 15x15 mark on the map trace i get misfire and I cant work out how to resolve this issue. Its always on the same spot so I started messing with the fuel map on the commander. I dont understand what the numbers are a reference to on the inj map. What does 1.00 reference too? I guess it means 1.00 = 0.00; above 1.00 = more fuel but how much is too much how little is too little? Why do the numbers stop at ~1.4 - they must be referenced to something and I cant find anything on the net. So basically its misfiring and i want to decrease the fuel because i think its too high ~1.30 which i did but it made little to no difference same as increasing the fuel.. anyone got any ideas? Thanks
  18. Hey guys, this is my first post on these forums. So I’m building a rb25det and I have an aftermarket billet intake with a 90mm throttle body. Iv mocked it all up and the TPS hits the fuse box. I’d rather not relocate the fuse box so Iv noticed that I am able to rotate it 90 degrees. Will this effect performance in anyway? Cheers
  19. Hi first time posting on here after many hours of reading trying to sort my r33 Okay its a r33 rb25 series 2 and it randomly starts misfiring really bad, it will splutter, or if on full throtle it will completely hit a flat spot again and again and it even cuts out at times. Plugs are fine replaced the cheap ebay coilpacks to stock ones and even replaced the cas, was thinking harness but when running you can pull on it and it wont missfire. Thing is it does it randomly like on a few odd ocasions it will run absolutely mint no problems at all then it will run so shit like some days it will cut out over and over again...want to get to thw bottom of this, any help is really apreciated
  20. Hi guys, I decided to start my build thread here at SAU.com.au as mentioned in my introduction thread a few weeks ago. The car was imported from Japan in 2014. Completely OEM (RB25DET NEO, AT, Sedan, KR4, built in 1998, 50220km). No modifications were made, which was very important for me. A few scratches and small dents here and there... nothing special. Due to the standards for registration here in Germany several things had to be done. This includes new lenses with an e-number (certified registration within the EU) for the headlights, a rear fog-lamp and new tires with an e-number, too. After that the car was ready for German streets. In 2015 I bought a new Blitz Nur Spec RX as a replacement for the factory one and Nismo indicators. It was a little strange to me that all the stickers (timing belt change, oil change, ...) were removed. And now comes the very - and with very I really mean fu**ing very very very very - bad thing about the car... The odometer reading was manipulated. During the change of the air purifier I've found a small sticker in the glovebox which says "Filter change at 86.xxx km" and a Japanese date (April/May 2009). Via the page japaneseodometercheck.com I figured out the correct odometer reading, which was around 100.218km at the time I bought the car. After that I decided to check the compression ratio of the engine. Well... guess what? Yes! They were not as good as expected. In this moment I thought "God damn it! Let's drive the car intil the engine doesn't work anymore. Fu** off!". To my astonishment the engine survived 2015 and 2016. During the off season (October 2015 until April 2016) the transmission was swapped from AT to MT with parts of an wrecked ER34. I've done this by myself because I wanted to widen my skills and knowledge. (That buddy really grew me some grey hair :D) From March 2017 until August 2017 the engine was completely overhauled. Due to that process some aftermarket parts were fitted as well. The car now looks like this: Let's see what will happen to it in 2018. A few parts are stored in my garage... If you want me to post my spec list just let me know. Regards Michael
  21. RB25DET Crankshaft with extended oil collar I have a crankshaft out of a series 2 RB25DET (R33 GTST S2) for sale. Price is $500. The crank was machined by "The Crankshaft Specialist" last year, including crack testing, machining all journals, fitting an extended oil pump drive collar, and drilling & grub-screwing oil passage plugs to allow cleaning of passages. The crank was inspected & linished again late last year, after a turbo failure. Included are a set of main & big-end bearings that have done almost no work, and are sized to suit the machined journals. Machine work & collar would cost more than the asking price. Price is for crankshaft & bearings only - cradle shown in photo isn't included. We have gone RB25/30 so no further use for this.
  22. I got my exhaust manifold resurfaced so I thought I'd make a video of the removal process. Let me know if it's good or sh#t. I'm no mechanic or expert in RB's (or any motors), I just use google and use my mechanical mind... Tutorial was done on my 1998 R34 GTT RB25Det Neo (Hypergear Highflow turbo with stock exhaust manifold).
  23. for sale is rb25det gearbox which came off a s2 r33 with 130xxxkm. I bought it about a month ago to put into my 34 gtt which i blew the gearbox in, but decided to sell since because ill be going overseas for 3 months so the gearbox can wait for now as i wont be driving it anyway and would rather have the vacation money. Will also come with a twin plate clutch, dont know what brand, i think it might be ORC. Pick up casula. Serious buyers message or call me 0424 145 383 asking $1500 with twin plate clutch
  24. Hi, are there any differences between the MAFs on non turbo and turbo skylines (RB25DE VS RB25DET)??? I suspect the MAF is knackered on my non turbo R33. Also what's difference between the green and pink labelled ones? I've tried searching but can't find much info and a straight answer. I recently brought the car and it has some major performance issues. I know non turbos are slow but mine is ridicilous. Honestly, it feels like it's got 80bhp max and that a 1liter Toyota Yaris would easily beat it lol. I've also been in a stock 2liter RB20e R33 with an exhaust and even that was twice as fast... It was parked up for a while so I serviced the car, changed oil, oil/fuel filter and sparkplugs. It gained alot of power but not as good as it should be. It had a broken cone filter fitted so I replaced it with a stock airbox+ filter but the car has lost power again but saw that the MAF was broken and the top has been taped up to hold it together. I pulled some of the tape off earlier so suspect that may be the cause and since then, it idles abit rough sometimes aswell but a little tap to bring to revs up sorts it out. Also the car has massive 3.5" straight though exhaust which I'm sure it's making me lose a huge amount of power. Am I right in believing that the ideal size should be 2.25 or 2.5" or wouldn't the exhaust make much difference?
  25. Z'd_up74RB

    Hey everyone what's going on, new to the community hoping to be able to help an get help always up to meeting fellow gear heads so let the builds begin I'm Doug by the way Z'd_up74rb