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  1. ahoy team rebuilding an rb25det gearbox at the moment. No idea what year it's from as bought it off gumtree but appears to be the older type with shonky 3rd-4th insert springs that are known to fail (I found their mashed-up corpses in the drained oil). Got most of the parts i need now but want to replace 3rd gear and the 3rd>4th coupler, however bit of a snag, a stumbling block if you will...the original Nissan part number for these 2 items is long since discontinued and over a week of searching, while some good info found, hasn't given me any clear answers. RHDJapan has given me this info for the 3rd gear and coupler> However for both of those new part numbers, i have read that they're not a direct-fit and need a spacer, new syncro hub and possibly other bits to make it work with the older gearboxes. Has anyone seen them, used them, or seen and used them, and know if they will work with the older boxes or not...?
  2. hey all just got my first skyline. as the title says its a 94 R33 GTS25T . i swapped it for a un finished AE86 project, it came regoed and slightly modified, and not very well looked after. so far the mods i know of are: Front Mouint High flowed stock turbo (hypergear?) internal gate welded shut and actuator disconnected 50mm external wastegate and screamer turbosmart e-boost street boost controller turbosmart boost gauge AFR gauge of some sort unknown brand fuel pressure regulator cut and shut forward facing stock intake manifold 3" exhaust maxpeeding coilovers exedy HD clutch 18x9.5 Work Emotion Kiwami's (metallic charcoal) she definitley needs some tlc and a heap of bugs need to be looked at but it seems pretty strong and goes well. looking forward to keeping this thread updated as i progress.
  3. As my title states I have a question about upgrading the valves on my RB25DET NEO engine. I had a timing belt mishap that decided to bend all 24 of my valves so I am needing to replace them. I brought the head to a machine shop who ordered Ferrea NEO valves (par numbers F1935P & F1933P) and upon arrival they were different than the OEM valves that were in the engine. Keep in mind I have not seen either of these valves in person yet. Supposedly the OEM valves are 6mm at the stem and then about 1cm from the top taper down into a 5mm stem. But the Ferrea valves don't taper down - they just stay 6mm the whole length of the stem - thus is requiring me to replace all my keepers, springs, etc (everything to do with the valves) resulting in a MUCH higher cost than anticipated and much higher cost than I can afford. Essentially what I am wondering is if someone has replaced their valves with Ferrea ones and kept all the other OEM components such as keepers, springs, etc. and had it work just fine. I am starting to wonder if this shop is just trying to get more money out of me.
  4. Where can I get a Steel Induction/suction/intake pipe? [RB25DET] I've googled and googled, I can't find a metal induction pipe that will go from my factory MAF to factory turbo. It's for my R34 GTT RB25DET Neo, and I'm going to get my factory turbo highflowed by Hypergear. They recommend to run a 3" steel induction pipe to the turbo. I have a silicone one right now and I think it's collapsing when I hit 1.3bar with my factory turbz. So I've searched every where and theres nothing out there. Can someone please link me to a site or someone that might sell one. Or does one usually weld one up? I'm also thinking of getting a Z32 in the future so will have to fit that too if possible
  5. Ladies and gents. I am not sure If something like this has been posted before, I googled and had little success. Here is an inside look at r33 rb25det can cover baffles (likely also the same as r34 rb25det baffles) We will be refering back to this picture a few times... As can be seen on the baffle plate above, there is a nice smooth transition into the two drains back into the head. The bottom side is shown below. I assume they have been positioned on that side to drain the oil into an area which would be under a slight relative vacuum created by the rotating camshafts. I may check this theory later. Moving on, this bad boy here is to the best of my knowledge, there in an attempt to separate oil as a liquid from fumes. This is done by slowing the heavier, denser, liquid (as opposed to vapour) allowing it to fall back down onto the baffle plate and drain back down into the head. It is made up of a sheet of 'fly mesh' concertinered, bound by wire and soldered. It is held in place by two cast ridges in the alloy of the rocker cover, and a small indentation on the baffle plate. Here's that first pic again, Just to the right of the separater, is an indent to allow clearance for the throttle body. At the far left, the oil filler can be seen. And just to the right of the oil filler a 'wall' can be seen. This wall seals off the baffles so that oil/ oil fumes can only enter from the rear. Queue ms paint... Fun fact: These baffle plates are held in by mushroomed studs of alluminium that are part of the cam cover casting. If you choose to remove your plates for whatever reason (modification, make your own from scratch, cleaning etc.) it might pay off to use a dremel or similar to grind around the lip of the mushroom and leave as much of the stud intact as possible ready for the plates to be refit. Keen eyes may have noticed that I drilled mine off. This is because I will be modifying my covers, and if this, or any baffle plate is refit, I will be drilling, tapping and locktiting bolts in place. Now something that has one of my eyebrows raised, is the large cavity at the rear of the covers, and the odd shape of them that is not mirror from left cover to right or vice versa. In that area, sits another baffle plate bolted to the camshaft bearing caps, however, I wouldn't have thought they would need so much room above them. My only theory thus far, is that they are there to increase capacity as a bit of a bandaid fix for our beloved (or not) RBs problem of filling the head with oil. This theory being that under acceleration, much of the oil is pushed to the rear and is allowed to fill up the cavity instead of pushing up into the baffles through the rearward opening as well as the two drains. Would any knowledgeable person care to confirm this? Now this may beg the question "if these baffles are designed to stop oil from making its way through the breathers, then why does my catch can keep filling up with oil?" well, here's a practical answer to that question that everyone can try at home. Fill a large container/bath tub with water. Place your cam covers in and allow the water to fill above them. Those that have their witts about them may have now realised that baffles don't work very well when submerged.
  6. Hello, Selling my brand new harness to fit RB25DET S1/2 and OEM injectors, great for those running Nismo injectors OR those who just want to get a new harness, lop off the ends and fit EV1, UScar plugs, etc. for their new injectors. Beats using your harness that's as old as you are or older. This exact one: https://www.wiringspecialties.com/wsrbinhabrne.html Location: Cabramatta, NSW 2166 Price: 1x slab of Fak Yak or Wild Yak or Stone & Wood Pacific Ale or Little Creatures, etc.
  7. I can never find any solid information regarding this turbo and the RB25Det. So in the next few days I will be having one fitted to my car and tuned. Dyno sheet will be uploaded as well. My mods are, GARRETT GT3076R-56T G2 TURBOCHARGER T3 INTERNAL WASTE GATE TURBINE HOUSING 0.82A/R AEROFLOW BILLET EFI FUEL RAIL NISSAN RB25 Aeroflow 100psi oil filled gauge Bosch 1000cc top feed Turbo smart FPR800 Walbro 255HP pump Relay mod for the pump and earth mod Splitfire Coils NGK BCPR7ES-8 FFP Front mount intercooler K&N air intake Z32 AFM Apexi power FC with hand controller Autometer boost gauge exhaust is 3" straight through with 1 rear muffler Internal mods unknown *Note engine bay photo is a before photo. After photo to come with dyno sheet update Factory fitted sunroof, GTR wing, N spec body kit, front and rear strut braces, coil-overs and more. It's only done 125,000 kms not bad for a 1994 model.
  8. Hi Everyone, Everything started when I was doing 110 on Hume highway and the water temp. went up so I lifted up and cruised until it came back to normal. Then I felt like I'm losing power (my oil temp gauge doesn't work) and as it got worse I rolled the window down and heard clicking noise from engine. I tried to pull over and engine died immediately before I turn it off. There was huge amount of smoke coming from engine bay from all around engine which looked like burning oil. whole process since I felt loss of power till engine died took about 3-4 minutes. Long story short, I towed the car home and next day I went to see what's wrong and a water hose behind engine was exploded and engine was completely dry and engine didn't start at all. I pulled intake out and there's oil every where. once I got to turbo, compressor is floating in oil. Please help me with your knowledge or similar experience. I'm ready for everything being engine complete rebuild with new turbo. please leave your suggestion if I should rebuild, get new rb25 or any other engine and rough estimate for cost I should expect. It's a 99 R34 gtt rb25det neo and I would like to repair and keep the car.
  9. Hi All , I’ve just resurfaced my RB25T head and I’ve used an original Nissan head gasket. my question is are the Nissan gaskets mono torque or should I re tention the head after is run in and got hot and cold a few times. Thank you in advance Jono
  10. RB25DET Crankshaft with extended oil collar I have a crankshaft out of a series 2 RB25DET (R33 GTST S2) for sale. Price is $500. The crank was machined by "The Crankshaft Specialist" last year, including crack testing, machining all journals, fitting an extended oil pump drive collar, and drilling & grub-screwing oil passage plugs to allow cleaning of passages. The crank was inspected & linished again late last year, after a turbo failure. Included are a set of main & big-end bearings that have done almost no work, and are sized to suit the machined journals. Machine work & collar would cost more than the asking price. Price is for crankshaft & bearings only - cradle shown in photo isn't included. We have gone RB25/30 so no further use for this.
  11. Toyota Echo/Yaris Coil pack conversion for RB25DET Yooo, This is a full conversion guide from RB25det to Yaris/echo coil packs. In this guide, i'm going to try and include as much information as I can but please forgive me as i'm an electrician and not the best at writing. This is an insight how I did it. Please treat this as a guide, and don’t crucify me if you don’t agree on something I’ve done cheers. - Please read full guide before attempting coil pack conversion, cheers. First, bit of background: I decided to attempt to convert my RB25det to yaris coil packs, I found there's not a huge amount of information out there about this conversion other then people just selling "conversion kits". I found a few really good informative websites about coilpacks & wiring information (which i'll link), and a few photos of some rb's that have been converted, other then that I didn't really find any guide for it. I personally was on a bit of a budget & thought what you got in the conversion kits for the money plainly wasn't worth it. Why Yaris/echo coil packs? -Cheap (i'll include prices of what i paid for everything.) -Reliable -Don't suffer from heatsoak as bad as Splitfires or OEM coilpacks -Good for 100hp per cylinder -Easily attainable -Tried and proved method, common conversion for the 1j and 2jz boys. -Heaps of information around for them, including dwell times etc Part 1: First thing to do is get some coil packs and plugs, I decided to go for Toyota Echo/Yaris coil packs part number: DENSO 90919-02240, I went to 2 local wreckers and found 8 coil packs for a total of $100, depending where you go this might vary. I could have got 6, but for the money & the chance of me blowing them up, I thought it would be a good idea to get spares. A trip down to DIY Wreckers with a pair of side cutters looking for Corollas, Camrys, Echos and yaris’s for the 4PIN denso coil pack plugs, these cost me next to nothing, make sure when you cut them off you leave yourself plenty of wire to rejoin them. Part 2: Mounting plate After looking at a few of the conversion kits, & photos of finished cars this is what I came up with. I used aluminium 4mm plate. The 3 bolts I used to mount the plate to the cylinder head were 70mm long, same thread as the standard coil pack bolts that go into the head. I also got a 12mm long bolt the same thread to earth the head using an eyelet using the last bolt. Think they’re 10mm metric. Mounting coil packs to plate: While I was at the bolt shop I also got 6 x 10mm bolts 35mm long, with 12x nuts. I used the bolts from the bottom, up through the top of the plate & secured them with a nut, then with a washer & an extra nut secured the coil pack to the plate. I don’t have measurements of these holes, as I marked them on the car with a sharpie. Picture tells a thousand words: Wiring: Here we go, the wiring: When using the Denso coil packs, I found the wiring diagram and information about the coil packs on: http://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide [Pin 1] Earth / common ground: This grounds each coil to the body / earth, an electric connection to to the cam cover alone is not at all suggested. [Pin 2] IGT / trigger: The signal wire to activate the firing of the coil, triggered directly from the ECU's ignition output. These can paired with another coil for a waste spark connection, for example using two ECU ignition outputs to run four coilpacks. See the next section for more on this subject. [Pin 3] IGF / ignition feedback: Used by OEM ECU's to confirm the firing of the ignition coil. If a coil malfunctions the ECU will sense the lack of this fire confirmation and put itself into a fault / limp mode. This is not normally used at all with an aftermarket /stand-alone ECU and hence only three wires are used for each coil. [Pin 4] Power (+) / ignition power: This is the main power supply for all of the coils, this power feed is activated when the key is turned to the "Ignition" position. The most common and suggested method of connection during a conversion on a four cylinder is to remove the power feed from the original single ignition coil and use it to power all four of the new coilpacks. Pulled straight from SQ engineering, whoever you are thanks!!!! I’ll buy you a 6pack get in touch with me. Now that we know the pin outs of the Coil pack, it’s simply easy to just work out the skyline coil pack trigger wire pin out, & use the factory 12v plug to give them power. Coil Pack Trigger wire colours for S1 RB25det Cylinder numbering goes from Front of block towards the back. Cylinder 1: Blue and Orange Cylinder 2: Blue and Black Cylinder 3: Blue and Red Cylinder 4: Blue and Yellow Cylinder 5: Grey and Black Cylinder 6: Purple and White To join the factory trigger wires to the new coil packs, I cut the factory plug off the trigger wires, bought a 6pin water proof automotive connector from jaycar & terminated my new coil pack loom and the factory harness to the corresponding wires. For 12v i cut the factory plug off the original 2pin connector off your old coil pack harness & solder that to your ground and 12v, think the white was + and black/red was -. Use your multimeter to confirm this. The ground wire (-) needs to be doubled up with the ground from the 2 pin plug & also your cylinder head. Before taping: Finished product: Once loomed all taped up, plate and coil packs mounted. Drives awesome, no hesitation at around 17psi. This guide got way out of hand. F***. If anything seems unclear please let me know so i can edit, cheers.
  12. Hi ther all friends and foes, i have recently had huge problems with my RB25det S2 (auto) , wher the car is running fine when cold, when it starts getting up to temp its starts to mess up, somtimes at 3000 somtimes at 4000, and when its warm up its ok agen. At one od the videos below, i have full throtle, car struggels and dosent do anything, then hits 4000rpm and it launches. Btw. Dont mind the temp gauge, belive the sensor for the gauge is messed up so it lives it own life Ther is no air leaks, no vacume leaks, coils are new, plugs are new, tried replacing maf 2 times. When MAF is disconekted the engien wil stop. Alsow from what i can finde online, the tps is supose to have 5v (i have around 4.5) when fully open, and betwen 0.3-0.5 when closed (alot of wierd answers on the internett) Stuff that have recently been done: - Adjusted timing to 15° (pulled TPS and Brown idle controll valve stick) - New coils - New plugs "Mods" -3" exhaust from turbo and back - pod filter 20190319_211111.mp4 20190319_211250.mp4
  13. So, i've had this odd noise coming from my podfilter, as in my opinion sounds like a grinding metallic noise. This isn't something new though, it has been going on since 2016. It isn't that apparent irl but you can definetely hear it on idle when standing near the engine xD. I recorded a video with my phone which managed to capture the noise really well (since it's quite high pitch). I will link a clip with the noise below. Any wise thoughts on what it could be? cheers! IMG_8820.MOV IMG_8820.MOV
  14. for sale is rb25det gearbox which came off a s2 r33 with 130xxxkm. I bought it about a month ago to put into my 34 gtt which i blew the gearbox in, but decided to sell since because ill be going overseas for 3 months so the gearbox can wait for now as i wont be driving it anyway and would rather have the vacation money. Will also come with a twin plate clutch, dont know what brand, i think it might be ORC. Pick up casula. Serious buyers message or call me 0424 145 383 asking $1500 with twin plate clutch
  15. Hey all, Removed my head and its stuffed. I'm after a bare Rb25det neo head to send to the machine shop. Has to be in good condition and come with cam caps. Cheers, Paul
  16. hi all I have a Series 1 Stagea that had RB25DET auto, motor died, SO ive got a RB25DET neo manual with matching Loom,ECU.(Motor is in car now) I understand that the series 1 fuse box is different and after searching know that ABS, Atessa and AC wont work. Has Someone wired this correctly to fix these issues, am wondering if i just have to re-pin the body plug to suit the series 1 pin out. sorry if newbie question struggling to find info on this. Thanks all.
  17. Hey gurus. I have a bit of an issue.. s1 R33 Gts25t. Stock RB25DET . Apparently has : a hypergear turbo, EBay 50mms external gate with a screamer , boost controller, fuel pressure regulator, 3" exhaust and a big fmic and a forward facing plenum. Now the issue is it's running really rich and fuel economy is completely stuffed. The bov has been removed and the pipes been routed to the back of the intake manifold. I have changed my Ecu and maf, and it's still the same. I can unplug my tps and the car drives and.Runs normal, but if I unplug the maf the car stalls. Also if i squeeze the bov hose closed the car stalls... and honestly I'm lost as to where to look now. Any help would be awesome thanks.
  18. Hello everyone so I have a question about the rb25 engine. So in my skyline r34 gtt I have the rb25de neo engine but I want to get it turbocharged. What parts will I need to get for it to work properly?
  19. R33 Running Rich, Rough and Struggling to Start Hi all, New to the site after trying to find answers through existing posts and come up with nothing 1993 R33 RB25DET (bought it NA and put the RB25DET in it) its been sitting for a year before I decided to register it. was running somewhat fine misfiring and rough on high boost through gears but idled ok. 5 weeks into it and its overfuelling extremely strong blowing black smoke and sounds like a wrx no matter what speed im doing. on start up whether it was hot or cold it sounded like a dead battery but eventually wound over, this is progressively getting worse taking longer and longer to wind over, when it does wind over it takes a while to start (thinking fuel issue) im getting 350km out of a tank and extremely fuelly inside and out of the car. pinging when boosting was wanting advice for where to look first? was thinking to test coil packs, maybe the CAS (a tune maybe?) suspected timing issue maybe? standard motor and ecu with the usual mods. I am using the non turbo exhaust could that play a part? any help appreciated so I can start eliminating potential causes. thinking maybe its running advanced can I alter this via the CAS? mechanically minded on naturally aspirated cars but bring fuel injection and ECUs in and im lost
  20. Want to buy: All to suit R34, rb25det neo. Neo engine cover Drivers seat belt Drivers side wiper arm Headlights - these need to be in good condition with no snapped tabs, preferably standard without H1 conversion Manual shift stick - from the gbox into centre console, the one with the thread Manual gear shift surround/trim + boot Preferably located Perth, but will cop shipping if I can't get it anywhere here. Cheers.
  21. WTB: RB20DET MOTOR ASAP I need an rb20det motor asap as mine let go on the dyno yesterday. I am just wanting the motor alone but am happy to purchase a complete set up if need be. 0432832497
  22. Hi guys, im currently living out of Aus for a few years and would like to pick up a cheap car for daily driving and fun cruising on the weekend. I have average experience with cars and do alot of reading on specs/stats etc. I would like to know some pros and cons from users here in regards to buying a 2nd hand cefiro with one of these turbo engines. Im a big fan of these 3 engines and there is a large supply of cefiros for sale with these engines available in them. Now obviously it depends how good the work has been done on the car, but for now i would like to be able to narrow my search on them. It will most likely be personal preference of which engine, but in regards for maintenance etc and less issues of modified engines i have heard the 1jz is quite reliable. Rb25 would be great, and the 2jz has always made me cream myself as a youngster watching my first mkiv supra fly by...... If anyone has experience in these engines in a conversion point of view, especially in a cefiro could you please let me know. I would be driving manual. A few of them have had LPG conversions too.....im not too fond of the idea and i have done some googling on LPG tubo cars, but could i get some light shed on the idea of LPG in a turbo car. The reason for buying a cefiro is because years ago they were a bigger import here and anything such as a skyline, or silvia/s14/180sx are a few thousand $ more than the cefiros that have had some slight work........hence the choice of the A31. I have drivin in some old soarers and a chaser. Ive never drivin a rb25det. They are all fun to ride in but now that im looking at 1 chasis and have to choose which engine its quite difficult! I enjoy my cars and im not too biased about them. Dont be upset or biased about a nissan running a toyota engine please!! Just give me your thoughts from a tuners POV. Thanks heaps! Any help will be much appreciated.
  23. R33 S1 complete motor with loom, ecu, turbo, injectors and coil packs $1500 6 Yellow Jacket R33 S1 and R32 coilpacks $300 6 SuperSpark R33 S1 and R32 coilpacks $300 Sparco Sprint fixed back bucket seat good condition on dodgy r33 rail $400 R33 Dash $150 R33 cluster $100 Location - Adelaide South Australia Phone - 0487343752 or PM prices are slightly neg
  24. Hi, I am selling stock standard plenum, injectors w fuel rail all complete. This is off a series 2 RB25det. This gear ran perfectly and only selling due to upgrade. $250 Cheap! Also selling standard exhaust manifold with heat sheild off rb25det. Price drop from $80 to $50. Grant 0410698980
  25. Rb25de+t reliability if done correctly r33 s1 G'day everyone I have a doozy of a pickle. I have built a rb25de+t with good bolt on equipment front facing plenum, big front mount, standard exhaust manifold and a new standard turbo the problem is we got the car running okay with a few mods like injectors and adjustments of tps sensor so I took the car to a track day to practice drifting and it was going well until it started to misfire cylinder 6 so we found out that I either have a hole in the piston or blew the head gasket or a valve (I'll have it apart this arvo) but now I was really happy with the power it put down thinking roughly 200-250 kw and now I'm asking is it possible to beef up a rb25de (a lot cheaper than a det) and get a good tune adjust timing fuel and everything else, I like the power of high compression I'm thinking a thicker good quality head gasket and bolts but unsure how the internals will hold welcome to all comments🤙🏼 IMG_1278.mp4
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