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Build Thread

  1. Just got my car on the road and finally fixed boosting issues. I have a old style garret a/r 70 top mount. And im just wondering is 18psi in high engine load bad or damaging to stock intervals? Obiously i took of the air filter to take this photo
  2. WANT TO BUY I am looking to buy a R33 rb25det engine loom, located Auckland, NZ but happy to pay for shipping from anywhere, Cheers!
  3. Toyota Echo/Yaris Coil pack conversion for RB25DET Yooo, This is a full conversion guide from RB25det to Yaris/echo coil packs. In this guide, i'm going to try and include as much information as I can but please forgive me as i'm an electrician and not the best at writing. This is an insight how I did it. Please treat this as a guide, and don’t crucify me if you don’t agree on something I’ve done cheers. - Please read full guide before attempting coil pack conversion, cheers. First, bit of background: I decided to attempt to convert my RB25det to yaris coil packs, I found there's not a huge amount of information out there about this conversion other then people just selling "conversion kits". I found a few really good informative websites about coilpacks & wiring information (which i'll link), and a few photos of some rb's that have been converted, other then that I didn't really find any guide for it. I personally was on a bit of a budget & thought what you got in the conversion kits for the money plainly wasn't worth it. Why Yaris/echo coil packs? -Cheap (i'll include prices of what i paid for everything.) -Reliable -Don't suffer from heatsoak as bad as Splitfires or OEM coilpacks -Good for 100hp per cylinder -Easily attainable -Tried and proved method, common conversion for the 1j and 2jz boys. -Heaps of information around for them, including dwell times etc Part 1: First thing to do is get some coil packs and plugs, I decided to go for Toyota Echo/Yaris coil packs part number: DENSO 90919-02240, I went to 2 local wreckers and found 8 coil packs for a total of $100, depending where you go this might vary. I could have got 6, but for the money & the chance of me blowing them up, I thought it would be a good idea to get spares. A trip down to DIY Wreckers with a pair of side cutters looking for Corollas, Camrys, Echos and yaris’s for the 4PIN denso coil pack plugs, these cost me next to nothing, make sure when you cut them off you leave yourself plenty of wire to rejoin them. Check (if you live in usa): Costco Weekly Ad, or Supercheap Auto Catalogue. Part 2: Mounting plate After looking at a few of the conversion kits, & photos of finished cars this is what I came up with. I used aluminium 4mm plate. The 3 bolts I used to mount the plate to the cylinder head were 70mm long, same thread as the standard coil pack bolts that go into the head. I also got a 12mm long bolt the same thread to earth the head using an eyelet using the last bolt. Think they’re 10mm metric. Mounting coil packs to plate: While I was at the bolt shop I also got 6 x 10mm bolts 35mm long, with 12x nuts. I used the bolts from the bottom, up through the top of the plate & secured them with a nut, then with a washer & an extra nut secured the coil pack to the plate. I don’t have measurements of these holes, as I marked them on the car with a sharpie. Picture tells a thousand words: Wiring: Here we go, the wiring: When using the Denso coil packs, I found the wiring diagram and information about the coil packs on: http://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide [Pin 1] Earth / common ground: This grounds each coil to the body / earth, an electric connection to to the cam cover alone is not at all suggested. [Pin 2] IGT / trigger: The signal wire to activate the firing of the coil, triggered directly from the ECU's ignition output. These can paired with another coil for a waste spark connection, for example using two ECU ignition outputs to run four coilpacks. See the next section for more on this subject. [Pin 3] IGF / ignition feedback: Used by OEM ECU's to confirm the firing of the ignition coil. If a coil malfunctions the ECU will sense the lack of this fire confirmation and put itself into a fault / limp mode. This is not normally used at all with an aftermarket /stand-alone ECU and hence only three wires are used for each coil. [Pin 4] Power (+) / ignition power: This is the main power supply for all of the coils, this power feed is activated when the key is turned to the "Ignition" position. The most common and suggested method of connection during a conversion on a four cylinder is to remove the power feed from the original single ignition coil and use it to power all four of the new coilpacks. Pulled straight from SQ engineering, whoever you are thanks!!!! I’ll buy you a 6pack get in touch with me. Now that we know the pin outs of the Coil pack, it’s simply easy to just work out the skyline coil pack trigger wire pin out, & use the factory 12v plug to give them power. Coil Pack Trigger wire colours for S1 RB25det Cylinder numbering goes from Front of block towards the back. Cylinder 1: Blue and Orange Cylinder 2: Blue and Black Cylinder 3: Blue and Red Cylinder 4: Blue and Yellow Cylinder 5: Grey and Black Cylinder 6: Purple and White To join the factory trigger wires to the new coil packs, I cut the factory plug off the trigger wires, bought a 6pin water proof automotive connector from jaycar & terminated my new coil pack loom and the factory harness to the corresponding wires. For 12v i cut the factory plug off the original 2pin connector off your old coil pack harness & solder that to your ground and 12v, think the white was + and black/red was -. Use your multimeter to confirm this. The ground wire (-) needs to be doubled up with the ground from the 2 pin plug & also your cylinder head. Before taping: Finished product: Once loomed all taped up, plate and coil packs mounted. Drives awesome, no hesitation at around 17psi. This guide got way out of hand. F***. If anything seems unclear please let me know so i can edit, cheers.
  4. Hi everyone! I have had battery charging issues before which have been resolved using this wonderful forum and well... here I am again! Yay... So, from the beginning. I've been driving my car for about 2 months now and my dash-lights went out about a week ago. Then yesterday, I'm leaving school and the car decides it doesn't have enough charge to start. I replaced my battery thinking it was just old (4 years) and got a nice fresh yellow-top. That made me curious to look at my voltage gauge and it displayed 13.88v. As I drove the car, I noticed it dropped to 12.88 and stayed there. When the car is off: battery is 12.42v. When the car is on, battery is 12.42v. When the car is on the road, 12v-12.88v. I have driven the car for about 3 days and its consistently sitting around 12v-12.88 but doesn't go up to 14v. My voltage gauge shows 12.88v max voltage when driving. I checked the alternator stud and it showed 13.53.v charge. I checked the 75A fuse, and it showed 13.48v. I started the car and disconnected the terminals from the battery to measure the charge to the battery and it read 12.41v (I did this quickly as I know the battery acts as a buffer). So, the battery is being charged at 12.41v, the alternator is producing 13.53 volts, all fuses are good, I don't have a charge light but my dash board lights did go out before I started noticing this problem. I tested the exciter wire (off the alternator) when the car is off: 0v, when the car is on: 0v (red/white wire off alternator) I tested the big wire (off the alternator) when the car is on: 0v, when the car is on: 0v (big white wire off the connection) The way I tested the wires was by taking off the plug and measuring the pins while the car is running off the alternator. I replaced the alternator in 2020, so I believe it should be good. But I do have an oem sitting around that was tested good before. Do you guys have any suggestions?
  5. Up for sale is an r33 rb25det head, 99% complete - comes with manifolds, injectors, rail, cams, rocker covers. Only things I can see missing are the coilpacks. Head does have VCT. Apparently came off a low km r33, supplied by Hyderdrive in Malaga. Was going to do a 25/30 but decided on a neo head instead. Pickup Willetton, WA. Or will post at buyers expense.
  6. I have a rb25det head out of my r33. The head comes complete with heavy duty valve springs, cams and rocker covers. It will need to be machined and valves replaced on cylinder 1 as the piston smacked the head. I still have the receipt for machining and valve springs before the damage occurred. $250 ono or may swap for vl parts. Pickup in Wollongong, NSW. Call: 0418 626 519 Thanks
  7. Out of ignorance and laziness i have found myself in a predicament where I cannot remove the shifter for the life of me I had already removed my shifter and wanted to put the car in gear, so i tried to quickly reassemble by just pushing the nylon shifter bushing into its hole without any collars or circlips etc, not realizing the bushing can come out of the bottom of the hole if pushed too deep, and of course, it did. Now the bushing is pivoting freely under the hole it operates in and ive spent hours trying to slide it back through without any luck or any sign that I am close. Can anybody tell me if its even possible to slide back through, or should I be going about this a different way?
  8. Hello, names Kyle long time reader of these forums as ive been looking for a r32 for a while now and I am finally a happy owner so thought id make an account haha ! Here is my 89” R32 gts-t (RB25det NEO) Few basic modifications/upgrades coil over suspension, exhaust, fmic, injectors, coils, TD06-20G Kinugawa turbo w/ external gate, powerFC having car tuned in the next week as it is running slightly rich and will have some numbers to share?
  9. Hi all, after some code guessing last week I purchased some new Kazama Auto ignition coils (red ones). After installation, and driving about 30kms, the car developed a misfire. Last night I identified it as coil number one. I unplugged each coil to find the faulty bugger only to realise I could do the check with Nisdatascan. First time round I didnt apply any dielectric grease. So, last night I went ahead and applied the grease to see if it would rectify the issue; this is when I found the boot on one of the coil packs appeared to be disfigured at the tip, probably from heat-damage (see pic). I then went ahead and dropped in one of the old coils which appeared to rectify the issue, at least for the five mins I ran the car for after. Now, I'm looking to return the coil pack and preferably get a single replacement for the dud, but it would help if I could explain why this may have happened? I've bought cheap coils before that have been dead on arrival but wouldn't expect this from a name brand - despite they're probably less-than-OEM quality. The engine and ECU is stock - there is no third-party wiring apart from for the AT-MT swap. I checked the harness in the wheel arch for damage - as the car is low and running larger wheels - it's visually intact. The ignition coil harness appeared to have been replaced by the previous owner. I replaced the plugs this time round. Just FYI: the coils didn't need replacing in the first place, after getting intermittent error codes which seemed to clear once they disappeared from the dash, I guessed it may have been the ignition coils. Actually, it was code 17, for the TCS motor to which I've got another on the way now.
  10. Hi all, I've been recently getting back on track in the 34 and figured it was time to take the plunge and upgrade the gearbox. I bought the car late last year, it was originally an auto, though the previous owner (or one of) swapped the gearbox with the less-than-adequate RB20det box. This month I have been accumulating parts to convert it to the 30A transmission; bought the 34 tailshaft from the UK for pretty cheap as they're going for 100,000JPY ($900-ish) here (Japan) and this week placed an order for a new 30A from Nissan. The good news is, a lot of the harder to source parts I already have from the previous swap. However, I'm not 100% clear on what I can keep and what needs replacing. I know there's some funny business involved with getting the 32 mechanical speedo to work with the 34 one, but am not clear on what modifications would have been made and how to reverse them if necessary. From what I've read, the modifications take place on the sensor side. Although, I have come across information regarding calibration of the tachometer. Will the master cylinder / lines be reusable for the new transmission? I've put together the following list, and it would be great if someone could point out anything I'm missing. Component Part Name / Number Unit Price Shipping Total Transmission FS5R30A 32010-AA520 ¥214,000 ¥15,000 ¥229,000 Propeller Shaft Nissan 37000AA500 ¥39,313 ¥30,000 ¥69,313 Clutch EXEDY ER34 Clutch 3-piece set 30210-AA001 30100-AA068 ¥42,350 ¥880 ¥43,230 Flywheel NA     ¥0 Spigot Bush NA     ¥0 Shifter Nissan 32839AA501/32839AB000 ¥5,387   ¥5,387 Clutch Master Cylinder ?     ¥0 Clutch Slave Cylinder Nissan 3062012U20 ¥10,753   ¥10,753 Clutch Master - Slave Lines ?     ¥0 Pedal Assembly NA     ¥0 Transmission Oil       ¥0 Clutch Fluid       ¥0 Labour   ¥100,000   ¥100,000 Resale (old parts)       ¥0 Total   ¥411,803 ¥45,880 ¥457,683
  11. Hello. I bought myt skyline 4yrs ago. First I drove it thru winter (surprisingly good winter ride). At the spring stock turbo waste got stuck. Car was 3 months in the carage. I put kinuqawa bolt on turbo and cheap low mount exhaust manigold. It was rest of the summer this way. Then I planned to do some little changes at the winter. But as many of you know things start to get bigger. I start building rollcage and strip whole car down. When car was tripped it would be stubid not to do some things like stich weldin and sandblasting the body etc. I also wanted to do some wisual mods and strip everything extra weight out from the body. Rollcage caused some changes also. Like stock heater system is not fitting anymore. Rear subfame and diff bushes changed to aluminium. Rear and front subframes and stock controll arms got some extra strenght also. Bash bars in front and back wore made from scratch. Now car is going back to gether slowly and I hope to get it done before 2030 ? Here is some picks of it. More you can see from my ig @nuut3ro
  12. Hello, i am looking to replace my turbo for an original or direct replacement for my -95 R33 GTST with an RB25DET. I have been looking online but cand find a oem turbo or a simmilar bolt on turbo... Can anyone help me?
  13. R33 S1 complete motor with loom, ecu, turbo, injectors and coil packs $1500 6 Yellow Jacket R33 S1 and R32 coilpacks $300 6 SuperSpark R33 S1 and R32 coilpacks $300 Sparco Sprint fixed back bucket seat good condition on dodgy r33 rail $400 R33 Dash $150 R33 cluster $100 Location - Adelaide South Australia Phone - 0487343752 or PM prices are slightly neg
  14. Up for sale is my beloved 2000 Y34 Nissan Cedric. I'm its 2nd AUS owner since it arrived back in 08. The car has been well maintained, runs like a dream, hasn't had any mechanical issues & is silky smooth to drive. No real mods apart from the wheels, being slightly lowered to get rid of the 4x4 spec & a boost controller. The car was always a cruiser & a head turner were ever it went. The reclining rear seats are also quite the treat for passengers! I will miss that! It also comes with a nice jap>eng translation book to help with navigating the dash and its many features. It's pretty easy, I got the hang of it after a few days. Additional info from its 1st AUS owner: 'This vehicle started out as a VQ30DET CVT and soon after its arrival in 2008 the CVT blew up.I sourced an RB25DET Neo from the same car and began the swap. After countless hours after work and weekends, its finally finished, and the best part is that EVERYTHING works! This is and will most likely remain to be the only RB25DET powered Y34 to be ever in the country (unless someone personal imports one). ' Vehicle details: 2000 Nissan Y34 Cedric 146,xxx kms on chasis 126,xxx kms on engine RWD RB25DET Neo 4 speed Automatic Greddy Elec Boost Controller Leather and woodgrain interior 19" Genuine Work Rims Stretched tyres 225/30/19 front - 98% , 245/30/19 rears - 80% Lowered springs ABS Quad airbags Tri-zone climate control 6 stack CD player TV with RCA inputs Adjustable reach and tilt steering column Electric front seats Reclinable rear seats (daamn!) Electric mirrors Electric windows Power steering (silky smooth) Remote keyless entry with central locking Xenon headlights and driving lights Autolock boot Programable Multi Control Unit to control auto functions (windows up, lights dim, etc..) Steering wheel MCU controls Rear MCU controls Air purifier system 8inch sub Price $20,000 ONO Phone 0429 103 257 Email [email protected] Would consider trade + cash adjustment my way for 79v Subaru Forester GT Manual.
  15. R33 S1 RB25DET Complete Motor Includes -injectors -intake manifold -exaust manifold -turbo -dump pipe -long motor (sump to rocker covers) Also have a ecu and wiring loom if required. Location - Adelaide, South Australia Price - $1400 Neg Phone - 0487343752 or PM
  16. Gents, I have a series 2 rb25det for sale. Complete longmotor with: R34 Thottle body Starter motor. Cas, harmonic balancer etc. No Coils. Also comes with a new set of ACL Racing bearings(full kit) as the engine needs a rebuild. No accessories unless mentioned. $400. also have a brand new RB25 Exedy clutch. includes bearing and cleaning lube. paid $420 and is still in the box so looking for $400. all located in the Sutherland Shire Josh 0420 971 976. MSG or PM during business hours please.
  17. $250 ono Fully legal/not defectable Turbosmart "Supersonic" blowoff valve It has a new plumback fitting & adapter plate to bolt straight onto rb25det Skyline & Stagea engine's Might also fit rb20det's but i'm not 100% sure These sold for about $350 new plus the adapter plate costs about $60 to buy as well Trumpet fitting & blanking plug are also included Pickups from Runcorn Brisbane.Might be able to drop it off locally or can send it registered mail at buyers expense.
  18. all items located in blakeview SA - RB25DET motor that has been previously opened as I intended to forged rebuild it, I had to move interstate so I loosely bolted it back together as the moving company wouldn't move an engine but they would move the car with or without it. the engine does need to be rebuilt and will come with new rings and bearings, the intake manifold, throttle body, nismo 555cc injectors, a tomei cam gear on the exhaust side, gates racing timing belt. the motor was on 107xxxKM before it was stripped. the motor DOES need to be re built $700 ONO or 800 with crane and stand I also have a few other parts as well: -extreme 6 puck solid button clutch with a extra heavy duty pressure plate, used but in near new condition - $300 ONO -SPOOL H beam forged conrods to suit RB25 and 26. - $500 ONO - SCA engine crane and stand, for both $250 ONO -standard RB25 coil packs. $50 ONO - R33 RB25 engine loom. $50 ONO - all off RB25: starter motor power steering pump alternator aircon pump flywheel R32 engine mount brackets STD AFM cam angle sensor clutch fan ↑ all $20 each or make an offer I am open to offers but please don't waste my time with ridiculous offers, feel free to ask any questions PM me on here to get in touch
  19. Make an offer if you need something Some parts will fit both series 1 & 2 r33/rb25det Pickups from Mt.Gravatt Brisbane,i can drop them off locally or post... -1998 r34 gtt starter motor from series two NEO rb25det $70 ono -1999 rs4s AWD Stagea starter motor also from series two NEO rb25det $70 ono -Series r33/rb25det cam covers in good condition Easy to paint or polish,wont fit series 2 rb25's $50 ono -Stock series 1 r33 gtst airbox & snorkleTop has been chopped out for better flow i guess,if i can find the APEXI hi-flow filter in the shed i'll chuck it in $45 ono -Brand new/never fitted DRIFT gearknob & adapters Paid $70 from Autobarn $50 ono -Stock r33/r34/Stagea gearknob in good condition $40 ono -Stock rb25det J-Pipe From memory its a series one part $35 ono -Used SCA pod filter with metal rb25det adapter plate Was on my Stagea $35 ono -HKS mushroom pod,needs new filter $15 ono -NISMO horn button,looks like new Carbon fibre type look,bought from ebay so i'm not sure if it's genuine $25 ono -Autotechnica steering wheel,was on my r33 $35 ono -Used oil cooler in good condition $30 ono -X-Force stainless 4.5" silencer $20 ono -Brand new/never fitted ARK turbo timer loom Says on back it fits most Skylines/Silvia's/Fairlady's I have used one of these for an Apexi turbo timer on my r33 gtst before Paid $25 sell for $15 -R33 gtst 3" steel race pipe,goes from cat & exits infront of rear wheel Not legal on street,track use only $50 ono -EL white faced r33 gtst gauge cluster,lights up neon blue,easy to install The fuel gauge is a bit off but you get used to it $50 ono -Stock rb25det manifold $30 ono -Stock rb25det dump pipe with heat sheild $20 ono
  20. Following parts are in working order and are from an R33 GTS-T s2: - Stock Air Intake Box + Snorkel $120 - Stock Intercooler + Hoses $80 $180 ONO for both Located in South East Melbourne Suburb. Willing to post interstate at buyers cost. Contact me on 0402 920 233
  21. allright so i have an idle problem, i start my r33 up and have to keep the revs above 2000rpm otherwise it will just drop and stall, sometimes the revs will hold at 2000rpm without being on the throttle but wont be for any longer than 3 seconds, i just took my aac off and gave it a clean up hoping that itd fix my problem as on here it seems to help alot of people. not me:( someone please help!! keep in mind im new to skylines so speak in dumb terms haha.
  22. Nissan Cefiro A31 1989 RB25DET Series 2 late model Rebuilt in Adelaide, have papers from previous owner with dates and specs Serviced every 5000km with Penrite Oil Reconditioned RB20 gearbox Heavy Duty Clutch, plenty of meat Boost Tee running 11pound GTR BOV GTR intercooler Walbro Fuel pump HKS Mushroom Air filter Air con will work, all that is needed is air con belt No Hicas Standard LSD HIDs Yellow fog lights Please Text me for Engine Bay pics To be fitted: New Front and Dump and cannon with exhaust tuck. Full interior R32 GTST front seats Floor mats Left air vent is intact Boost, Oil Press, Water Temp Drift gauges in middle vents Trust Gear knob Weather Shields Kenwood Head unit **Large Mirror not included** **Genuine NARDI is not included** **Licence Plates and Tilt device not included** A fake Nardi steering wheel will be fitted on purchase Rear right window does not work, all that’s needed is a control unit plugged in on that particular door. Easy fix, if willing to pay $40 for a used one. Wheels – Cosmis Mogul VCP-S5R (Concave Wheel) 17 x 9 +22 Offset 17 x 10 +22 Offset 15mm Bolt on KTS spacers on front, Steel wheel nuts. Brakes – 5 Stud R33 callipers and hubs front and rear Suspension – D2 racing Coil overs 12kg fronts and 10kg rear GKtech rear castor rods, JJR rear camber arms and extra lock washers. Autech full Kit, Fiberglass. It has been repaired a few times by me and previous owners but still could use some love. But it is very hard to come by now days. Paint is Average. Roof is wrapped with carbon wrap. A few dents here and there. Aerial works 35% Suntek tint which is legal Full Alarm and Central Locking $11 500 with concaved rims, rego till Jan 2014 and RWC Can negotiate if rims and rego are not wanted NO SWAPS please! Text and Email Preferred! JackJack 0434515257 [email protected]
  23. Hi guys, just bought this amazing car after selling my s15. Its a sedan skyline with full full nismo bodykit and performance parts. Hks 28/35 turbo Hks ecu pro version 2.1 Hks fmic Nismo injectors Apexi electronic boost controller Nismo 5 speed gearbox Nismo Heavy duty clutch Nismo 300km speedo Greddy inlet manifold Oil catch can and cooler Nismo rims Bigger fuel pump 250kw at the wheel with 1bar. The problem is that the car was tuned by the previous owner on 2 bars. When I bought the car. The car was set and runing at .75 bar and was running was rich, black smoke. The car got no afm as well and the owner is not sure what the previous tuner has done. May runing on map sensors. I then increase the boost to 1.10 bar, the car run a bit better than before but still run a rich. (By increasing the boost, doesnt blow that much black smoke) I found some petrol leak beside the injectors as well. Not sure about that. Need to get a good tuner who work on hks ecu and someone to fix that injectors leak which I think its the orings. If anyone know a good tuning place please let me know.
  24. I have acquired a front cut and a stack of rear end parts that is basically taking up space in my driveway so it's all gotta go. Prices are very fair already but if you'd like to make a reasonable offer feel free. Bear in mind if I have to package and post the item I may be less receptive to low balls. MORE PICS AND PARTS TO BE UPDATED AS I GO! Pick up Lower Blue Mountains Sydney. Bonnet $100 (pick up only at this stage) Doors $50 each (pick up only)- Driver's door sold, all others still available. Side mirrors $30 pair or $20 each Door cards- not in good condition however the fabric parts could be used to upgrade your existing trim- $Make an, offer pick up only Rs260 (series 1- red trim) door card set in awesome condition $sold Rs260 )series 1- red trim) front seats $200 pair, Front guards $50 each (pick up only) Passenger inner guard liner $30 (pick up only) Driver's side sold Rear tailgate, complete except for boot lock $150 (pick up preferred) Dolphin side skirts and rear bar, would need some repairs $SOLD Block $200 (head sold already, motor had low compression on 6) Op6 turbo $SOLD Gearbox $SOLD Manual conversion $SOLD Steering wheel (manual with airbag) $150 Wiring looms $50 each Rear diff $400 Driveshafts $100 each Hubs $50 each Rear brakes $50 Complete rear cradle (diff, shafts, cradle, hubs etc) $600 Front brakes $80 Brake master and booster $40 each ABS unit $80 Fuel pump/cradle $50 Stock suspension with lowered springs $SOLD Headlights- Passenger side only available $50 Everything else you can see is for sale, make an offer! Sold already: Head, coilpacks, intercooler, front bar, drivers side driveshaft, rims, centre console, power steering pump, 4wd pump, driver's door, drivers side inner guard liner, washer bottle.
  25. For Sale: - No trades. $5750. Firm. No offers. 0403 279 975 1997 Series 2 R33 GTS25t 157,xxx km White Manual Turbo The Good: Tomei Poncams Cooling Pro Stealth return flow FMIC Exedy HD cushion button clutch Exedy racing flywheel Drift oil catch can R33 GTR 17”x9” rims (F: 245/40R17 R: 255/40R17) Cusco Front strut brace, R33 GTR rear strut brace Nismo slave cyl. w/ HEL braided clutch line 3” – 3.75” stainless exhaust from turbo back Pioneer CD/MP3/WMA/AAC stereo w/ ipod/USB/iphone connectivity & handsfree Bluetooth HICAS Lock bar HEL braided brake lines w/ Project Mu calliper rebuild kit Red stitched leather gear and boots + centre console Original Skyline mats Z32 AFM fitted 13AUG. adjustable camber Front and Rear The bad: Cracked RFront indicator Needs aftermarket ECU for proper tune a few squeaks here and there Selling due to Minister for Finance and Recreation decree (Missus says it's gotta go before baby arrives). Have receipts for parts fitted and work done, runs well and has been extremely reliable in the 9.5yrs I've owned it. Engine always had Royal Purple motor oil, gearbox + diff - redline shockproof - all changed less than 1000km ago Better pics coming after it's detailed (if it's not sold in the meantime).
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