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Found 424 results

  1. Hello. I bought myt skyline 4yrs ago. First I drove it thru winter (surprisingly good winter ride). At the spring stock turbo waste got stuck. Car was 3 months in the carage. I put kinuqawa bolt on turbo and cheap low mount exhaust manigold. It was rest of the summer this way. Then I planned to do some little changes at the winter. But as many of you know things start to get bigger. I start building rollcage and strip whole car down. When car was tripped it would be stubid not to do some things like stich weldin and sandblasting the body etc. I also wanted to do some wisual mods and strip everything extra weight out from the body. Rollcage caused some changes also. Like stock heater system is not fitting anymore. Rear subfame and diff bushes changed to aluminium. Rear and front subframes and stock controll arms got some extra strenght also. Bash bars in front and back wore made from scratch. Now car is going back to gether slowly and I hope to get it done before 2030 🤣 Here is some picks of it. More you can see from my ig @nuut3ro
  2. Got a basically stock 99 RB25Det Neo Stagea. Just recently had to replace all the coil packs because one had failed so I got some brand-new spit fires for the old girl. About a week after installing them stated to feel like the car was down on power a little when I got on boost. After driving around for a bit I could tell something was up. first gear almost felt like the car was NA with what felt like no extra power when I got on boost. Second wasn’t as bad had a little extra power on boost but still nowhere near where it was before. 3rd 4th 5th Also sort of felt off (But it’s kind of hard to tell in the high gears). To sum it up Car feels Absolutely normal driving around normally (Not getting on boost). But as soon as you get on boost there is no power. The car sort of hesitates and throughout the rev range the power will tend to fluctuate come in and out a little bit. I’ve been driving it sparingly for the last week and have also noticed that some days it feels like its NA with almost zero power. Others its not so bad. And one day this week the car feels almost normal. So, it’s a little intermittent. Not too sure what’s going on My first reaction was "it’s probably just a boost leak" but my boost gauge was still siting on 12psi like normal and I’ve got the reference line for it coming directly from the intake manifold so there’s no funny business going on in between. Other Thought was it had something to do with spark. so, I got all new sparkplugs and just got a brand-new set of coils. I just left the plugs with the stock 1.1mm gap and tested each coil pack/coil pack wire and plug to see if I’m getting a nice blue spark which I am. So that’s crossed of the list From what I can tell I must have something to do with fuel. Not sure exactly what could be only guess is dying pump, blocked fuel filter, blocked injectors. Note about 3 weeks before all this I used some of that liquid injector cleaner that you put in your fuel tank. possibly dislodged a bit of gunk somewhere in the fuel system and is causing issues?? I have no real way to test the fuel pressure let alone the whole system. Haven’t really messed around much with fuel stuff all that much in my time so any ideas or tips or tricks for trouble shooting would be greatly apricated. Could it be possible something is stuffed with the ecu???
  3. Hello guys! This week’s car problem isssssssss the fuel gauge is reading incorrect fuel level (always at full or close to full) I have an RB25DET wired to a S13 hatchback fuel sending unit. I have double checked that the fuel gauge is grounded properly and connected correctly. So, next step was to check the fuel sending unit which I found is reading 0-2 ohm in both fuel and empty. So! That means it is reading the incorrect resistance. Is there a way I could fix this without buying a whole new sending unit, perhaps a resistor? Thank you all!
  4. so have finally finished putting the box back together, but now it's all assembled and housings are back on, I have an issue where it's locked in 4th gear constantly and will only turn by hand in 4th or neutral, but the whole shaft turns in neutral, not just one end. It selects all gears fine but won't turn in any other gear. Before I put the housings back on I confirmed all gears select and shift as they should and all turn accordingly with the gear selected, but once the front housing is back on, it locks up. I stripped it back down to make sure hadn't made any error in reassembly and the syncros bearings etc all sitting as they should, and everything was fine but as soon as the front housing went back on, it locks up again. I haven't filled it with any fluid yet so I'm thinking maybe is there too much friction on the 4th syncro when it's dry? (although I did put a little grease on it on it when reassembling for the 2nd time, hasn't made any difference). This box was a 2nd-hander off gumtree so I never actually used it myself to know of any issue with it prior. At a standstill with it now so, ideas are welcome.
  5. Hello Everyone. Back in February my motor died, i'm pretty sure it was the head gasket but I'm no expert with these things. I've finally found a new engine and am having the swap done next week and need to sell the old one because I have no room for it, don't plan on rebuilding it and need to make some money back from swap. I will have more photos of the Engine once it is out of the car. These motors are getting harder to find, and they're getting more and more expensive. I've looked on Gumtree and other dead RB25's are being listed anywhere from $600 - $1200. I'm asking for $500 ono for the engine. Pickup from the Cannington area. Note: The Painted covers will be going on my new engine and it's standard grey will be going on the broken one. Also, I will have photos of the engine out of the car some time this week. Secondly, I'm also selling the front bumper from my car, as you can see in the photos below it's pretty thrashed, but i'm replacing it along with the new engine being put in, so, same story there. I'm asking $200ono for the front bumper (including the fog lights, which from what I've seen online are worth about $100) Same deal as above, pickups from the Cannington area, WA. DM me if you're interested in either, or if you have any further questions.
  6. Hey guys Is there a difference between the r33 det and de speed sensor as I can't find anything anywhere for the de version. Please post a link to a site or just any help would be awesome as I need the part to get my car on the road I own a 1996 r33 series 2 rb25de manual
  7. So my mechanic and i was wondering if its possible to put back the rb25 engine in my R34 Skyline with the transmission still in the car... Asking because to drop the transmission is alot of extra work and we wanna know if they can be mated together when they are both in the car. I cant find any example or video on any forum or on youtube... only seeing guys who mate them out the car and THEN put it back in all at once. If anyone has done this before please let us know! Thanks -Dylan
  8. Hello guys, first of all, thank you for stopping by and giving this a view! Okay so, the car ran perfectly after the tune but about 3 days later under full throttle, when it reaches about 6-8k it will start to backfiire about 2-4 pops. Things I've done to try to fix the problem: Changed spark plugs and gaped to the tuners specification of .02 Changed fuel filter Things the car has done to it that relates: 550 Walbro (tuned with the car) Fuel pressure regulator When I changed the spark plugs they all looked exactly the same, which makes me believe that the coils are working fine. But the plugs did look fouled as shown in the picture. I also attached an image showing my gap that was perfectly at .02 without damaging the tip. My fuel pressure is about 38psi on idle. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you!
  9. ahoy team rebuilding an rb25det gearbox at the moment. No idea what year it's from as bought it off gumtree but appears to be the older type with shonky 3rd-4th insert springs that are known to fail (I found their mashed-up corpses in the drained oil). Got most of the parts i need now but want to replace 3rd gear and the 3rd>4th coupler, however bit of a snag, a stumbling block if you will...the original Nissan part number for these 2 items is long since discontinued and over a week of searching, while some good info found, hasn't given me any clear answers. RHDJapan has given me this info for the 3rd gear and coupler> However for both of those new part numbers, i have read that they're not a direct-fit and need a spacer, new syncro hub and possibly other bits to make it work with the older gearboxes. Has anyone seen them, used them, or seen and used them, and know if they will work with the older boxes or not...?
  10. hey all just got my first skyline. as the title says its a 94 R33 GTS25T . i swapped it for a un finished AE86 project, it came regoed and slightly modified, and not very well looked after. so far the mods i know of are: Front Mouint High flowed stock turbo (hypergear?) internal gate welded shut and actuator disconnected 50mm external wastegate and screamer turbosmart e-boost street boost controller turbosmart boost gauge AFR gauge of some sort unknown brand fuel pressure regulator cut and shut forward facing stock intake manifold 3" exhaust maxpeeding coilovers exedy HD clutch 18x9.5 Work Emotion Kiwami's (metallic charcoal) she definitley needs some tlc and a heap of bugs need to be looked at but it seems pretty strong and goes well. looking forward to keeping this thread updated as i progress.
  11. As my title states I have a question about upgrading the valves on my RB25DET NEO engine. I had a timing belt mishap that decided to bend all 24 of my valves so I am needing to replace them. I brought the head to a machine shop who ordered Ferrea NEO valves (par numbers F1935P & F1933P) and upon arrival they were different than the OEM valves that were in the engine. Keep in mind I have not seen either of these valves in person yet. Supposedly the OEM valves are 6mm at the stem and then about 1cm from the top taper down into a 5mm stem. But the Ferrea valves don't taper down - they just stay 6mm the whole length of the stem - thus is requiring me to replace all my keepers, springs, etc (everything to do with the valves) resulting in a MUCH higher cost than anticipated and much higher cost than I can afford. Essentially what I am wondering is if someone has replaced their valves with Ferrea ones and kept all the other OEM components such as keepers, springs, etc. and had it work just fine. I am starting to wonder if this shop is just trying to get more money out of me.
  12. Where can I get a Steel Induction/suction/intake pipe? [RB25DET] I've googled and googled, I can't find a metal induction pipe that will go from my factory MAF to factory turbo. It's for my R34 GTT RB25DET Neo, and I'm going to get my factory turbo highflowed by Hypergear. They recommend to run a 3" steel induction pipe to the turbo. I have a silicone one right now and I think it's collapsing when I hit 1.3bar with my factory turbz. So I've searched every where and theres nothing out there. Can someone please link me to a site or someone that might sell one. Or does one usually weld one up? I'm also thinking of getting a Z32 in the future so will have to fit that too if possible
  13. Ladies and gents. I am not sure If something like this has been posted before, I googled and had little success. Here is an inside look at r33 rb25det can cover baffles (likely also the same as r34 rb25det baffles) We will be refering back to this picture a few times... As can be seen on the baffle plate above, there is a nice smooth transition into the two drains back into the head. The bottom side is shown below. I assume they have been positioned on that side to drain the oil into an area which would be under a slight relative vacuum created by the rotating camshafts. I may check this theory later. Moving on, this bad boy here is to the best of my knowledge, there in an attempt to separate oil as a liquid from fumes. This is done by slowing the heavier, denser, liquid (as opposed to vapour) allowing it to fall back down onto the baffle plate and drain back down into the head. It is made up of a sheet of 'fly mesh' concertinered, bound by wire and soldered. It is held in place by two cast ridges in the alloy of the rocker cover, and a small indentation on the baffle plate. Here's that first pic again, Just to the right of the separater, is an indent to allow clearance for the throttle body. At the far left, the oil filler can be seen. And just to the right of the oil filler a 'wall' can be seen. This wall seals off the baffles so that oil/ oil fumes can only enter from the rear. Queue ms paint... Fun fact: These baffle plates are held in by mushroomed studs of alluminium that are part of the cam cover casting. If you choose to remove your plates for whatever reason (modification, make your own from scratch, cleaning etc.) it might pay off to use a dremel or similar to grind around the lip of the mushroom and leave as much of the stud intact as possible ready for the plates to be refit. Keen eyes may have noticed that I drilled mine off. This is because I will be modifying my covers, and if this, or any baffle plate is refit, I will be drilling, tapping and locktiting bolts in place. Now something that has one of my eyebrows raised, is the large cavity at the rear of the covers, and the odd shape of them that is not mirror from left cover to right or vice versa. In that area, sits another baffle plate bolted to the camshaft bearing caps, however, I wouldn't have thought they would need so much room above them. My only theory thus far, is that they are there to increase capacity as a bit of a bandaid fix for our beloved (or not) RBs problem of filling the head with oil. This theory being that under acceleration, much of the oil is pushed to the rear and is allowed to fill up the cavity instead of pushing up into the baffles through the rearward opening as well as the two drains. Would any knowledgeable person care to confirm this? Now this may beg the question "if these baffles are designed to stop oil from making its way through the breathers, then why does my catch can keep filling up with oil?" well, here's a practical answer to that question that everyone can try at home. Fill a large container/bath tub with water. Place your cam covers in and allow the water to fill above them. Those that have their witts about them may have now realised that baffles don't work very well when submerged.
  14. Hello, Selling my brand new harness to fit RB25DET S1/2 and OEM injectors, great for those running Nismo injectors OR those who just want to get a new harness, lop off the ends and fit EV1, UScar plugs, etc. for their new injectors. Beats using your harness that's as old as you are or older. This exact one: https://www.wiringspecialties.com/wsrbinhabrne.html Location: Cabramatta, NSW 2166 Price: 1x slab of Fak Yak or Wild Yak or Stone & Wood Pacific Ale or Little Creatures, etc.
  15. I can never find any solid information regarding this turbo and the RB25Det. So in the next few days I will be having one fitted to my car and tuned. Dyno sheet will be uploaded as well. My mods are, GARRETT GT3076R-56T G2 TURBOCHARGER T3 INTERNAL WASTE GATE TURBINE HOUSING 0.82A/R AEROFLOW BILLET EFI FUEL RAIL NISSAN RB25 Aeroflow 100psi oil filled gauge Bosch 1000cc top feed Turbo smart FPR800 Walbro 255HP pump Relay mod for the pump and earth mod Splitfire Coils NGK BCPR7ES-8 FFP Front mount intercooler K&N air intake Z32 AFM Apexi power FC with hand controller Autometer boost gauge exhaust is 3" straight through with 1 rear muffler Internal mods unknown *Note engine bay photo is a before photo. After photo to come with dyno sheet update Factory fitted sunroof, GTR wing, N spec body kit, front and rear strut braces, coil-overs and more. It's only done 125,000 kms not bad for a 1994 model.
  16. Hi Everyone, Everything started when I was doing 110 on Hume highway and the water temp. went up so I lifted up and cruised until it came back to normal. Then I felt like I'm losing power (my oil temp gauge doesn't work) and as it got worse I rolled the window down and heard clicking noise from engine. I tried to pull over and engine died immediately before I turn it off. There was huge amount of smoke coming from engine bay from all around engine which looked like burning oil. whole process since I felt loss of power till engine died took about 3-4 minutes. Long story short, I towed the car home and next day I went to see what's wrong and a water hose behind engine was exploded and engine was completely dry and engine didn't start at all. I pulled intake out and there's oil every where. once I got to turbo, compressor is floating in oil. Please help me with your knowledge or similar experience. I'm ready for everything being engine complete rebuild with new turbo. please leave your suggestion if I should rebuild, get new rb25 or any other engine and rough estimate for cost I should expect. It's a 99 R34 gtt rb25det neo and I would like to repair and keep the car.
  17. Hi All , I’ve just resurfaced my RB25T head and I’ve used an original Nissan head gasket. my question is are the Nissan gaskets mono torque or should I re tention the head after is run in and got hot and cold a few times. Thank you in advance Jono
  18. RB25DET Crankshaft with extended oil collar I have a crankshaft out of a series 2 RB25DET (R33 GTST S2) for sale. Price is $500. The crank was machined by "The Crankshaft Specialist" last year, including crack testing, machining all journals, fitting an extended oil pump drive collar, and drilling & grub-screwing oil passage plugs to allow cleaning of passages. The crank was inspected & linished again late last year, after a turbo failure. Included are a set of main & big-end bearings that have done almost no work, and are sized to suit the machined journals. Machine work & collar would cost more than the asking price. Price is for crankshaft & bearings only - cradle shown in photo isn't included. We have gone RB25/30 so no further use for this.
  19. Toyota Echo/Yaris Coil pack conversion for RB25DET Yooo, This is a full conversion guide from RB25det to Yaris/echo coil packs. In this guide, i'm going to try and include as much information as I can but please forgive me as i'm an electrician and not the best at writing. This is an insight how I did it. Please treat this as a guide, and don’t crucify me if you don’t agree on something I’ve done cheers. - Please read full guide before attempting coil pack conversion, cheers. First, bit of background: I decided to attempt to convert my RB25det to yaris coil packs, I found there's not a huge amount of information out there about this conversion other then people just selling "conversion kits". I found a few really good informative websites about coilpacks & wiring information (which i'll link), and a few photos of some rb's that have been converted, other then that I didn't really find any guide for it. I personally was on a bit of a budget & thought what you got in the conversion kits for the money plainly wasn't worth it. Why Yaris/echo coil packs? -Cheap (i'll include prices of what i paid for everything.) -Reliable -Don't suffer from heatsoak as bad as Splitfires or OEM coilpacks -Good for 100hp per cylinder -Easily attainable -Tried and proved method, common conversion for the 1j and 2jz boys. -Heaps of information around for them, including dwell times etc Part 1: First thing to do is get some coil packs and plugs, I decided to go for Toyota Echo/Yaris coil packs part number: DENSO 90919-02240, I went to 2 local wreckers and found 8 coil packs for a total of $100, depending where you go this might vary. I could have got 6, but for the money & the chance of me blowing them up, I thought it would be a good idea to get spares. A trip down to DIY Wreckers with a pair of side cutters looking for Corollas, Camrys, Echos and yaris’s for the 4PIN denso coil pack plugs, these cost me next to nothing, make sure when you cut them off you leave yourself plenty of wire to rejoin them. Part 2: Mounting plate After looking at a few of the conversion kits, & photos of finished cars this is what I came up with. I used aluminium 4mm plate. The 3 bolts I used to mount the plate to the cylinder head were 70mm long, same thread as the standard coil pack bolts that go into the head. I also got a 12mm long bolt the same thread to earth the head using an eyelet using the last bolt. Think they’re 10mm metric. Mounting coil packs to plate: While I was at the bolt shop I also got 6 x 10mm bolts 35mm long, with 12x nuts. I used the bolts from the bottom, up through the top of the plate & secured them with a nut, then with a washer & an extra nut secured the coil pack to the plate. I don’t have measurements of these holes, as I marked them on the car with a sharpie. Picture tells a thousand words: Wiring: Here we go, the wiring: When using the Denso coil packs, I found the wiring diagram and information about the coil packs on: http://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide [Pin 1] Earth / common ground: This grounds each coil to the body / earth, an electric connection to to the cam cover alone is not at all suggested. [Pin 2] IGT / trigger: The signal wire to activate the firing of the coil, triggered directly from the ECU's ignition output. These can paired with another coil for a waste spark connection, for example using two ECU ignition outputs to run four coilpacks. See the next section for more on this subject. [Pin 3] IGF / ignition feedback: Used by OEM ECU's to confirm the firing of the ignition coil. If a coil malfunctions the ECU will sense the lack of this fire confirmation and put itself into a fault / limp mode. This is not normally used at all with an aftermarket /stand-alone ECU and hence only three wires are used for each coil. [Pin 4] Power (+) / ignition power: This is the main power supply for all of the coils, this power feed is activated when the key is turned to the "Ignition" position. The most common and suggested method of connection during a conversion on a four cylinder is to remove the power feed from the original single ignition coil and use it to power all four of the new coilpacks. Pulled straight from SQ engineering, whoever you are thanks!!!! I’ll buy you a 6pack get in touch with me. Now that we know the pin outs of the Coil pack, it’s simply easy to just work out the skyline coil pack trigger wire pin out, & use the factory 12v plug to give them power. Coil Pack Trigger wire colours for S1 RB25det Cylinder numbering goes from Front of block towards the back. Cylinder 1: Blue and Orange Cylinder 2: Blue and Black Cylinder 3: Blue and Red Cylinder 4: Blue and Yellow Cylinder 5: Grey and Black Cylinder 6: Purple and White To join the factory trigger wires to the new coil packs, I cut the factory plug off the trigger wires, bought a 6pin water proof automotive connector from jaycar & terminated my new coil pack loom and the factory harness to the corresponding wires. For 12v i cut the factory plug off the original 2pin connector off your old coil pack harness & solder that to your ground and 12v, think the white was + and black/red was -. Use your multimeter to confirm this. The ground wire (-) needs to be doubled up with the ground from the 2 pin plug & also your cylinder head. Before taping: Finished product: Once loomed all taped up, plate and coil packs mounted. Drives awesome, no hesitation at around 17psi. This guide got way out of hand. F***. If anything seems unclear please let me know so i can edit, cheers.
  20. Hi ther all friends and foes, i have recently had huge problems with my RB25det S2 (auto) , wher the car is running fine when cold, when it starts getting up to temp its starts to mess up, somtimes at 3000 somtimes at 4000, and when its warm up its ok agen. At one od the videos below, i have full throtle, car struggels and dosent do anything, then hits 4000rpm and it launches. Btw. Dont mind the temp gauge, belive the sensor for the gauge is messed up so it lives it own life Ther is no air leaks, no vacume leaks, coils are new, plugs are new, tried replacing maf 2 times. When MAF is disconekted the engien wil stop. Alsow from what i can finde online, the tps is supose to have 5v (i have around 4.5) when fully open, and betwen 0.3-0.5 when closed (alot of wierd answers on the internett) Stuff that have recently been done: - Adjusted timing to 15° (pulled TPS and Brown idle controll valve stick) - New coils - New plugs "Mods" -3" exhaust from turbo and back - pod filter 20190319_211111.mp4 20190319_211250.mp4
  21. So, i've had this odd noise coming from my podfilter, as in my opinion sounds like a grinding metallic noise. This isn't something new though, it has been going on since 2016. It isn't that apparent irl but you can definetely hear it on idle when standing near the engine xD. I recorded a video with my phone which managed to capture the noise really well (since it's quite high pitch). I will link a clip with the noise below. Any wise thoughts on what it could be? cheers! IMG_8820.MOV IMG_8820.MOV
  22. for sale is rb25det gearbox which came off a s2 r33 with 130xxxkm. I bought it about a month ago to put into my 34 gtt which i blew the gearbox in, but decided to sell since because ill be going overseas for 3 months so the gearbox can wait for now as i wont be driving it anyway and would rather have the vacation money. Will also come with a twin plate clutch, dont know what brand, i think it might be ORC. Pick up casula. Serious buyers message or call me 0424 145 383 asking $1500 with twin plate clutch
  23. Hey all, Removed my head and its stuffed. I'm after a bare Rb25det neo head to send to the machine shop. Has to be in good condition and come with cam caps. Cheers, Paul
  24. hi all I have a Series 1 Stagea that had RB25DET auto, motor died, SO ive got a RB25DET neo manual with matching Loom,ECU.(Motor is in car now) I understand that the series 1 fuse box is different and after searching know that ABS, Atessa and AC wont work. Has Someone wired this correctly to fix these issues, am wondering if i just have to re-pin the body plug to suit the series 1 pin out. sorry if newbie question struggling to find info on this. Thanks all.
  25. Hey gurus. I have a bit of an issue.. s1 R33 Gts25t. Stock RB25DET . Apparently has : a hypergear turbo, EBay 50mms external gate with a screamer , boost controller, fuel pressure regulator, 3" exhaust and a big fmic and a forward facing plenum. Now the issue is it's running really rich and fuel economy is completely stuffed. The bov has been removed and the pipes been routed to the back of the intake manifold. I have changed my Ecu and maf, and it's still the same. I can unplug my tps and the car drives and.Runs normal, but if I unplug the maf the car stalls. Also if i squeeze the bov hose closed the car stalls... and honestly I'm lost as to where to look now. Any help would be awesome thanks.
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