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  1. Hi guys, currently wiring a RB30/25 into an R31. My question relates to the wiring at the TPS, wire colour from harness to TPS, which is 5v supply, earth return, signal, from the red, white, blue wires coming from the sensor? I have diagrams showing the harness side however I don’t have a factory connector on the sensor to reference pin position
  2. I picked up an old RB25 from a scrap dealer who sold it as a NEO. It didn't come with an engine cover (the obvious indicator) but I figured I'd be able to identify it once I started stripping it. The first thing I checked was the crankshaft oil pump collar. To my disappointment, this was the standard, short collar which made me think that I was sold a non-NEO. But as I stripped the head, I see it had solid lifters, indicating a NEO. I read that early NEO's hadn't addressed the oil pump collar issue but have the improved cylinder head. It's also meant to have GTR conrods but I'm not sure how to identify those. Anyone else know how I could identify the motor that I have? At this stage, it would be important for me to know how much the stock internals can handle
  3. Hey all, just doing a +t conversion to my 25de R34 coupe. Just hoping someone might be able to help me out with what sort of kw/psi I would be able to push through the de without sending a rod to the moon. I got a pretty stock kit off a DET with a few upgraded bits. - All factory piping, intercooler, fuel rail, intake mani and throttle body, exhaust mani, 3" dump through to xforce exhaust. - High-flowed factory turbo (20psi) - Bosch 1000cc injectors - Apexi FC with controller I know a det can push 500rwhp without upgrading internals but cause of higher comp in the DE I don't know what I should be pushing out of it. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I would still like to daily it but have a fair bit of go if I put the foot down. Thankyou all
  4. Hello everyone I know this topic has been covered a multitude of times but It’s always been plugs and coils plugs and coils, so I bought my c33 about a month ago with an Rb25det series 1 swap car runs idles very well under 5k rpm builds about 0.5 bar of boost but whenever I go WOT after 5k the boost seems to spike to about 1.0 bar of boost causing the car to spit and sputter almost like a limiter/anti lag sound I have recently replaced the coil packs brand new oem and plugs gapped to .8 igniter has been tested and in working condition engine is completely oem from an r33 gtst only thing after market is a Down pipe and a walboro fuel pump any help would be appreciated like I said I know this has been covered but no one seems to include the boost spiking like mine does, thank you
  5. Hello. I bought myt skyline 4yrs ago. First I drove it thru winter (surprisingly good winter ride). At the spring stock turbo waste got stuck. Car was 3 months in the carage. I put kinuqawa bolt on turbo and cheap low mount exhaust manigold. It was rest of the summer this way. Then I planned to do some little changes at the winter. But as many of you know things start to get bigger. I start building rollcage and strip whole car down. When car was tripped it would be stubid not to do some things like stich weldin and sandblasting the body etc. I also wanted to do some wisual mods and strip everything extra weight out from the body. Rollcage caused some changes also. Like stock heater system is not fitting anymore. Rear subfame and diff bushes changed to aluminium. Rear and front subframes and stock controll arms got some extra strenght also. Bash bars in front and back wore made from scratch. Now car is going back to gether slowly and I hope to get it done before 2030 ? Here is some picks of it. More you can see from my ig @nuut3ro
  6. Hello, names Kyle long time reader of these forums as ive been looking for a r32 for a while now and I am finally a happy owner so thought id make an account haha ! Here is my 89” R32 gts-t (RB25det NEO) Few basic modifications/upgrades coil over suspension, exhaust, fmic, injectors, coils, TD06-20G Kinugawa turbo w/ external gate, powerFC having car tuned in the next week as it is running slightly rich and will have some numbers to share?
  7. Hi, trying to look for a good coolant hose kit to replace on my rb25det Non neo. All the small coolant hoses under the intake manifold and heater hoses, had a look on kudos and couldn’t find anything. Ebay only showed hoses from China and not really a fan of getting cheap quality products. Anyone have an idea of where to get a full hose kit?
  8. Hello! I have decided to run a flex fuel setup on my RB25DET. The engine is fully built with forged internals and GTX3076R turbo. To increase HP, I’ve decided to change my fuel system to flex fuel to enable e85. However, I’m new to this e85 world and would like to be informed correctly for my setup. I’m currently pushing 400HP at 17PSI. What fuel pump should I run? what fuel injectors should I use? what sensor should I use for e85 and regular octane detection? thank you!
  9. Hello! Lucky me, I’m mostly asking this question to see if I should stop driving my car or if it’s okay. As I was bringing the front of my car off the jack, the frame slipped, and my jack pushed my radiation up up up up and cracked my fiberglass hood. It also bent my harmonic balancer pulley on my RB25DET where the power steering belt goes just a little bit, looks more like a scrape but does have a little bit of a bend. Should I be concerned about the pulley? I have driven for a day, did a couple of highway pulls in 3rd, cruises, everything feels okay, maybe a little shaky but it could be my own paranoia! Haha. Thank you!
  10. Hi all, I'm spending a few months in your lovely city of Sydney doing some work at the Garden Island naval base. I believe my Stagea (rb25det neo) requires an exhaust manifold gasket. Whining when warming up from cold, chuffing/ticking when hot. It has 200k kms and a highflowed turbo by hypergear roughly 35k kms ago. Where is somewhere reliable and knowledgeable I can take it? I have searched and the threads are a few years old so just want the most current info incase someones favorite mechanic has moved on elsewhere etc. Currently staying in Coogee. Anywhere between GI and Coogee would be a bonus but I realise most places will be west but that doesn't matter as I don't need the car thru the week. Japlink seemed to be mentioned in a few threads. Still on a winner if I contact them? Cheers fellas
  11. Hey all, Got into a prang with my R32 GTST. As per pictures, it was a front-on collision that took out the front bumper completely, all front lights, radiator and a few other bits. Looking to get rid of it ASAP. The engine seems fine, starts instantly, and the car can still move (note I don't say drive). The steering is fouled by the damage. Specs: RB25DET w/ roughly 170,000kms RB20 5 speed Z32 ECU w/nistune Ebay turbo (was working fine on 12psi) GTR pump I am NOT parting the car, selling whole. Best offer by Friday 29/1/16 can take it, I need it gone. Car is located in Guildford 2161. PM if interested. Thanks for your time.
  12. Hi guys, Been driving my 33 for a while now and it has been faultless. However the other week I was cruising at 60 and it felt like the engine power had dramatically decreased..almost cut off. I tried to push down the accelerator harder but the revs were struggling to increase and the car was in a jerky motion. I pulled over to the side and the idle was fluctuating from say 200, where the car would almost die, to 1200 rpm. After a few mins the care felt okay to drive again, but not 100%. Since then, if I don't use boost then the car will drive okay. Once I hit boost hard (1st gear pulls) and while im still in boost, it sounds like the turbo is whistling but the car isn't accelerating much. Then after this short spurt of boost the car will feel sluggish, jerky, and very minimal engine response from the accelerator. The car will end up regaining some power after a couple of minutes but not fully. Prior to this happening I had an aftermarket bov which I had to change back to factory. I thought it could be the issue so I changed it back to the aftermarket one but the car still acts the same. Fuel pump is a wallbro 255 and is fine...still primes when turning the ignition to ON. I'm still thinking it's some kind of fuel related issue. Maybe turbo has had it? Care to shed some light guys? Thanks for the help. EDIT: i have yellowjackets with the standard plugs that rb25dets use.. replaced the plugs only 2000kms ago
  13. so..... this is my first rb25det neo (RWD) engine and i will fix it in a peugeot 504 - 76 but i have some questions to the rb specialist i know there is a lot of info. on the internet for this engines but i'm totally lost and i want some one to simply answer this questions : 1- what is difference (mechanically and electrically ) between the neo and non neo engines? 2- did the neo engines came in R33 or it only came in R34 and starting from what models??? 3- how can i make sure that my engine is originally a DET engine ??? 4- what is the difference between s1 and s2 engines? 5- what is the ECU serial number which matches my Rb25 det neo (because i got the engine with a harness only )? 6- i bought an rb20 gear box with this engine because of the lake of resources (money) is this will be a problem in the future ? 7- what is the difference between an automatic and a manual transmission engine harness and how can i know which harness i have? 8- i need a full wiring diagram for this engine as the wiring is the most challenging thing for me (fixing the motor into the car is the easy part). this acutely summon my doubts for now any help from you guys will be very appreciated if any one have any info for me for fixing an rb engine into my car please let me know __________________________ proud to be a RB owner ____________________________
  14. Hi all, sorry if this has been asked before as I'm a new poster but I couldn't find anything after searching. I need to buy a new afm for my R33 gtst series 2 Rb25det (pink label) and I just want to know where I can trust to get one from as eBay sellers say there genuine refurbed etc but I'm unsure, cheers.
  15. Yo... So, after picking up an RB25 block and crank cheap on here from AngryRB, a forged short block build project has been on the cards for the last few months as I already had a lot of parts left over from the last engine build. Will be using Ross Pistons, and I had been leaning towards Spool rods as they will no doubt handle the 600-700hp the engine is being built for. However, after posting a review of the maxpeedingrods turbo I used recently, which I found to be outstanding value for money, I was contacted by MaXpeedingRods asking me if I had any projects happening and if I was interested in using any of their other parts. They make a conrod for the RB25, and loads of other cars, but unfortunately I couldn't find any real info on them as far as the RB/skyline community goes, although a few reviews and a bit of info on other forums, and a more detailed review here https://bofiracing.co.uk/blog/maxpeedingrods-cheap-chinese-rods-our-verdict/ No real horror stories found, (only 2 issues on a VW forums which seemed to result from a rod bolt failure, rather than the rods themselves) with most of the negatives I found seeming to be the ol' " no way I'd use ebay parts" which to me is an attitude about 15 years out of date. After seeing their conrods and comparing the specs to Spool, Scat, Eagle rods, they seemed to be very comparable, (if not the same but rebranded), and MUCH cheaper. Then after discussing with them regarding the product and what my upcoming build will be needing, they have sent me a set which arrived within a few days from the AU warehouse - nice secure box with plenty of foam packing, each rod in a sealed bag and greasepaper-wrapped. The rod itself, when compared to the stock rod, there's no comparison. Nice even finish across it, laser-etched marking on the big ends showing the final measurements, the caps are dowelled giving a precise fitment on the rod. I was a little suss on the genuine-ity of the ARP fastener but have confirmed with ARP, yes they are an official ARP product, made under license. The block and crank are with the rebuilder at the moment (but have confirmed, the crank and bores have measured up fine, so thanks AngryRB ) and I will be dropping the rods into them next week for the engine balancing, so will post up their feedback on the rods shortly.
  16. so have finally finished putting the box back together, but now it's all assembled and housings are back on, I have an issue where it's locked in 4th gear constantly and will only turn by hand in 4th or neutral, but the whole shaft turns in neutral, not just one end. It selects all gears fine but won't turn in any other gear. Before I put the housings back on I confirmed all gears select and shift as they should and all turn accordingly with the gear selected, but once the front housing is back on, it locks up. I stripped it back down to make sure hadn't made any error in reassembly and the syncros bearings etc all sitting as they should, and everything was fine but as soon as the front housing went back on, it locks up again. I haven't filled it with any fluid yet so I'm thinking maybe is there too much friction on the 4th syncro when it's dry? (although I did put a little grease on it on it when reassembling for the 2nd time, hasn't made any difference). This box was a 2nd-hander off gumtree so I never actually used it myself to know of any issue with it prior. At a standstill with it now so, ideas are welcome.
  17. So my mechanic and i was wondering if its possible to put back the rb25 engine in my R34 Skyline with the transmission still in the car... Asking because to drop the transmission is alot of extra work and we wanna know if they can be mated together when they are both in the car. I cant find any example or video on any forum or on youtube... only seeing guys who mate them out the car and THEN put it back in all at once. If anyone has done this before please let us know! Thanks -Dylan
  18. Hello Everyone. Back in February my motor died, i'm pretty sure it was the head gasket but I'm no expert with these things. I've finally found a new engine and am having the swap done next week and need to sell the old one because I have no room for it, don't plan on rebuilding it and need to make some money back from swap. I will have more photos of the Engine once it is out of the car. These motors are getting harder to find, and they're getting more and more expensive. I've looked on Gumtree and other dead RB25's are being listed anywhere from $600 - $1200. I'm asking for $500 ono for the engine. Pickup from the Cannington area. Note: The Painted covers will be going on my new engine and it's standard grey will be going on the broken one. Also, I will have photos of the engine out of the car some time this week. Secondly, I'm also selling the front bumper from my car, as you can see in the photos below it's pretty thrashed, but i'm replacing it along with the new engine being put in, so, same story there. I'm asking $200ono for the front bumper (including the fog lights, which from what I've seen online are worth about $100) Same deal as above, pickups from the Cannington area, WA. DM me if you're interested in either, or if you have any further questions.
  19. Hello! I’ve read multiple post on similar issues as I’m having but following their steps hasn’t brought me much closer to solving my issue it feels like. So, I created a new one! Issue: I installed a brand new alternator after thinking my old alternator was the issue but I’m having the same problems. The alternator is not charging the battery at 14v resulting in constant recharge to be able to drive it for another 5 days before the voltage gets too low that it can be harmful to multiple components. When car is off: 12.43V When car is on: 12.51V Diagnose: With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the negative probe to the negative side of the battery. Then, I measured all the grounds on the alternator while car is on. Negative Side of Alternator alternator ground to block: 0.05V alternator case: 0.05V alternator bracket: 0.04V alternator battery power stud: 2.5V alternator Battery power nut: 2.5V chasis to block where alternator ground is hooked up to: 0.05V Grounds around alternator: 0.05V With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the positive probe to the positive side of the battery. Then, I measured Voltage drop while car is on. Positive Side of Alternator Alternator Battery Power stud: 9. 47V Alternator Battery Power Nut: 9. 47V Rechecked grounds on alternator: 12.42V The 75Amp fuse is receiving 11.8v on the top pin and 0.01V on the bottom. Where I’m At: With the diagnose I’ve done I’ve determined that the grounds have a prettt good connection, the 75Amp fuse is good, but there is a substantial voltage drop of 9.47V. Question: Does anyone know why a voltage drop could occur and how do I fix it? Could the battery be the issue?
  20. Hello, Selling my brand new harness to fit RB25DET S1/2 and OEM injectors, great for those running Nismo injectors OR those who just want to get a new harness, lop off the ends and fit EV1, UScar plugs, etc. for their new injectors. Beats using your harness that's as old as you are or older. This exact one: https://www.wiringspecialties.com/wsrbinhabrne.html Location: Cabramatta, NSW 2166 Price: 1x slab of Fak Yak or Wild Yak or Stone & Wood Pacific Ale or Little Creatures, etc.
  21. Hello everyone so I have a question about the rb25 engine. So in my skyline r34 gtt I have the rb25de neo engine but I want to get it turbocharged. What parts will I need to get for it to work properly?
  22. Hey guys trying to get some advice for where to go with problem solving on my stagea, its one of the dreaded 08/97 built cars that have an ecu they ran for only one month apparently. pretty much the problem is the car is idle hunting badly running rich and rarely but sometimes stalling at idle and then under power it will stutter and cut out untill i clutch out taking load off. The previous owner had it manual swapped from an auto and the issues started from there as i found from the mechanic who serviced it. if someone could help with a pin out sheet or advice on which ecu to go with or if theres. Something i should replace i would much appreciate it.
  23. Hey guys, this is my first post on these forums. So I’m building a rb25det and I have an aftermarket billet intake with a 90mm throttle body. Iv mocked it all up and the TPS hits the fuse box. I’d rather not relocate the fuse box so Iv noticed that I am able to rotate it 90 degrees. Will this effect performance in anyway? Cheers
  24. Hey everyone. I just got a manual conversion done on my 1998 r34 gtt and now it is running funny. It revs very slow and goes slower then my na r34 now. It is still running the auto ecu. Im thinking that might be the problem? Or maybe the coils? Please anyone that has had this kind of problem let me know. Ps. Sorry if this is in the wrong part of the forums
  25. Bought it a couple months ago but have decided to go twin plate. Clutch has plenty of meat on it, owner told me he used for 10000km, i never installed it on the car or used it. The pressure plate has been reinforced and has a load rating of 1100kg. Any questions pm me. Price $320
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