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Found 287 results

  1. Good day i have a nissan laurel with a rb25det swap.Engine is Bone stock except for an Front Mounted intercooler I wanted to know the vacuum line which runs off the wastegate,Where does it need to be hooked?(I do not have a boost solenoid).As of right now it is installed onto my intake manifold.However i am baffled as to whether it should be on the intercooler piping or the INtake manifold.
  2. Hi gents, Came back from a two week holiday and did a service on my R33 s2 Rb25det. Changed Oil, cleaned afm with electrical cleaner and swapped back from pod to air box and snorkel with trust filter. I run a air box 99% of the time. I was giving it a boot at night on Monday and noticed it wasn't as quick as it normally would be with less of a punch in the mid-range. Basically felt like it would on a hot summers day, rather than 10pm at night heading into winter. As it's SAFC tuned I can see the AFM reading as a percentage and normally in summer it would hit 76-80% and in winter 82-87% It was hitting low 80's this night but just felt slow. Started fault finding, re-cleaned afm, checked fault codes, Checked for loose hoses etc No obvious boost leak, still hitting and holding 10psi and turbo is not any less responsive than usual. Removed air box filter lid/filter/snorkel for a run and only marginally quicker but didn't seem like it was the issue. Replaced the fuel filter too, no difference. I then removed all corrections on the safc so it was essentially just running stock and I couldn't tell the difference. Kept doing runs with 0 corrections and then adding the corrections it was tuned for and I can't tell the difference. So now I'm at a bit of a loss, I don't have a wideband to see if the corrections are effecting open loop AFRs or if the fuel pump is dying. Had a walbro put in at the time of tune 5 years ago. Basically it's had the same setup, 10psi, MBC, return flow and full exhaust with SAFC tune for 5 years and all of a sudden it just feels like it's slower like it's lost its tune/less ignition timing. Any ideas, whether could be fuel pump dying, still a marginal boost leak or a problem with the SAFC? Just want to try anything before getting it on the Dyno. Cheers Patrick
  3. Hey guys, I d like to ask for advice... My newly bought skyline running perfectly on 7 psi but if i raise the boost to 10 psi it cuts out at 6000 rpm and i just cannot tune it out.... when the engine is hot its getting worse (5500rpm)... I connected a smoke machine to check for leaks...I marked the blocked pipes with red X....the smoke is immediately (at low pressure) coming out from the crankcase and from the inlet manifold... It just doesn`t make sense to me how can it smokes from the engine when everything is blocked... Is my turbo leaking through the bearing housing back to exhaust and through the open valves comes out at the inlet? Or is it normal? Any idea? I m kind of getting hopeless for now maybe just i m the dumb and cannot tune it out (datalogit power fc, Z32 maf)... pls don`t spare me everything helps, have a good one
  4. Blueprinted RB28 Neo I don't expect to sell this, especially not quickly, but here we go, it's up for sale, and I await burny flames, because "Greg Car™" What I have is a fully blueprinted, literally built yesterday RB28/29 RB25DET Neo with juicy VCT, unlike you dirty RB26 people. It's also in a car, running, and available for any test you would like to do. In fact, I'd encourage it. The blueprints are obviously included with the same and to have a look at beforehand and all that. The pertinent info: Compression is 9.01:1 It has a Brian Crower stroker kit from the USA in it ( 86.5mm pistons that were custom made by JE and Nitto to fit the Neo head (the kit was for RB25DET and RB26) I say JE and Nitto as they are actually badged with both brand names. JUN Oil pump Lewis Engines baffled/gated and extended sump. R34 has 1.27mm restrictor in it standard, one feed has been blocked off. The oil returns in the head and the block have been enlarged. ARP2000 Head Studs ARP Main Studs ACL Race Bearings Tomei Metal HG, 1.2mm. Tomei Type B 260deg Cams Tomei Exhaust Cam Gear which does nothing but is installed.. Supertech Valve Springs The head was ported and polished and unlike most ports and polish actually helped performance a pretty big amount. And by "helped performance" I mean along the lines of the same power at about 10psi less boost. Being built yesterday, it has a full OEM Nissan Gasket set for everything minus the HG, and new belts. If it's so amazing, why do I want to sell it? I only aim to make 300kw going forward. A stock engine would be better for me. I'd love 12k for it, and I'm sure you'll offer lower, the price may sound insane but keep in mind.. a) The BC kit alone costs $6000USD before shipping. b) It's a legally registerable engine for those who are worried about RB30's engine numbers in engine bays. c) It's already built, so no waiting for you d) It's already running, come test it, drive the car, be sure about it without those post build worries and niggles that do appear at times. So if this is something you wanted to build, well there's no way it's going to happen cheaper, faster and simpler than just taking this one out. I could include photos of the build if really needed, but it looks like an assembled engine, unlike most, I went out of my way to not make it look interesting. No flashy rocker cover paint here. Come drive the thing, test the thing, etc instead! If interested, send a PM! Negotiations, swaps, etc all welcome.
  5. blind_elk

    Short story long: Went out to fuel up the night before I was due to go to Phillip Island, Labour Day weekend. Car wouldn't start at servo, discovered missing top starter motor bolt and almost missing lower starter motor bolt . Managed to get lower bolt back in, starter worked. Drove to PI, drove home, everything fine. A week later, I removed the lower bolt so I could be sure I got the correct size replacement, got 2 new bolts for starter motor, fitted them (after basically removing everything from the engine bay ). Went to start the car (on a jump), just spins over - absolutely no sign of wanting to fire. I have spark. Pretty sure I have fuel (not confident of fuel pressure though). Don't know about compression (although don't know why it would suddenly disappear). Replaced fuel filter. Pretty sure I haven't disturbed any of the air hoses under the manifold (but how do you tell on these MFs). Any help / guidance appreciated. Engine is RB25DET, running off a Wolf 3D4+ ECU. Has basically been running fine since installed - this is the first real problem of this nature.
  6. hi everyone how are you doing so i bought a nissan cefiro with RB25DET swap bone stock engine and have been using the car normal but sometimes hard for about 1 month and had never did a compression test, opened the oil cap or make sure if white smoke came out from exhaust long story short i went and installed standalone link ecu changed sparks plugs and did the 1NZ coil pack swap then started tuning the car at 9 psi when doing a load run the car build boost for 9 psi then at 4500 rpm it go down to 5 psi stopped tuning and when to do a compression test with the car warm all spark plugs out but not WOT dry no oil and it read 120-121-120-145-123-120 installed everything back and reved the engine white smoke came out from exhaust but no to much what does this mean and does the tuning had any effect ? thanks
  7. Hey guys, Have recently had problems with excessive blow by at the track. I have an at performance catch can with 2.3l capacity and fill it up after 5 or so laps. Have been told this is normal for Rb's but seems pretty excessive. I have seen peoples setups to drain from the head back to the sump but a healthy motor shouldn't need that? Im only running 250hp with a standard high flowed turbo. Thinking i need a rebuild but want to here peoples thoughts. Do freshly rebuilt rb25det's still push oil out at the track? TIA
  8. Hey Peoples! Have some parts from my shit box, all these parts were removed from a working Auto RB25DET NEO motor. Stock Used Parts: Cams (IN/EX) - $50 Cam Belt Sprocket & 2x plates (sits on crank) - $10 Cam Idler/Tensioner pulleys - $10 Valve Springs & Retainers - $50 Head Bolts, washers (aka head studs) - $50 Pistons, Connecting Rods (complete) - $200 Air Conditioning Pump & bracket - $100 Stock OEM Brand New Parts: Genuine Nissan RB25DET Head Gasket - $100 Genuine Nissan RB25DET Turbo Outlet Elbow & Dump Gasket $50 Genuine Nissan RB25DET Exhaust Manifold Gasket $50 Great for someone doing a basic rebuild or a slapper job OR someone wanting to pop in DET pistons into their DE motor. Will sell the entire lot for $400 Location: Canley Vale Price: $400 for the lot OR as itemised
  9. Jimjamtheham

    Just bought my first stagea love it as I’ve always wanted one! It recently had a manual conversion done but still has the auto ecu I’m about to put a 3 inch turbo back exhaust on it and want to get a tune am I able to tune the auto ecu or would I be better upgrading the ecu, if so, to what cheers
  10. Hi all, So i was 'exploring' my R33 the other day inve stigating the previous owners handiwork. And i came across this. ( see pics) are these both fuel pressure regulators? If so why are they both on the same line into the fuel rail. Any information would be awesome thanks
  11. Hey, about to send the car in for a tune within the next week or 2, and interested in what you guys think, number wise, what it could be capable of making in its current setup so I will list off the mods for you, can assume things not listed to be stock. 98 R33 GTST rb25det Apexi power fc + hand controller exedy heavy duty clutch exedy lightened flywheel forward facing plenum race works fuel rail turbosmart fpr 800 fuel regulator Denso 550cc injectors walbro 255 fuel pump yellow jacket coil packs NGK BCPR7ES spark plugs (0.8mm) exhaust system 3 inch, hi flow cat front mount intercooler op6 turbo (r34 GTT turbo) still low mount (looking to run 12 psi, or more, let me know what you think) also if you want to throw in recommendations for what you would do with the car next would be mint for fresh ideas. No pun intended. Thanks in advance
  12. hey all just got my first skyline. as the title says its a 94 R33 GTS25T . i swapped it for a un finished AE86 project, it came regoed and slightly modified, and not very well looked after. so far the mods i know of are: Front Mouint High flowed stock turbo (hypergear?) internal gate welded shut and actuator disconnected 50mm external wastegate and screamer turbosmart e-boost street boost controller turbosmart boost gauge AFR gauge of some sort unknown brand fuel pressure regulator cut and shut forward facing stock intake manifold 3" exhaust maxpeeding coilovers exedy HD clutch 18x9.5 Work Emotion Kiwami's (metallic charcoal) she definitley needs some tlc and a heap of bugs need to be looked at but it seems pretty strong and goes well. looking forward to keeping this thread updated as i progress.
  13. Hey Guys, Can somebody help me find a cheap Intake Manifold for a RB25DET NEO, I have been looking to fit an aftermarket one for a while but all of them that I look at are too expensive. Please no R33 intakes, I don't want to have to do anything that is going to cost more than $400. Thanks Chris.
  14. Hi all, Having alot of trouble getting our RB25det r32 running properly. The car originally had a big laggy chinese turbo on it, so we pulled engine and tidied everything up and reverted to the factory rb25 turbo unit. After reinstalling the engine we have the following issue: - With afm plugged in, we can get the car started and then will die 10 seconds later. Can't rev it without is bogging down and dying. - With afm unplugged, the car starts and idles fine. As soon as we try to rev it, it also bogs down and dies. As soon as the afm is plugged in again it bogs down and dies. - Car isn't blowing any smoke - Have kept an eye on the FPR gauge and it is jumping between 40-60psi Have gone through many threads and can't seem to find anyone with similar problems. We have tested another AFM, checked for vacuum leaks and intercooler piping leaks. Am thinking it could be the following things: - Faulty fuel pump - We bought a second faulty AFM - Something to do with TPS and throttle body because as soon as that is altered car dies? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Cheers,
  15. Hi All, Looking to buy a spare set of s1 r33 25det injectors - the purple ones that are all faded and actually look grey. Will need posted if not in Melbourne's northern / western suburbs. Thanks!
  16. Toyota Echo/Yaris Coil pack conversion for RB25DET Yooo, This is a full conversion guide from RB25det to Yaris/echo coil packs. In this guide, i'm going to try and include as much information as I can but please forgive me as i'm an electrician and not the best at writing. This is an insight how I did it. Please treat this as a guide, and don’t crucify me if you don’t agree on something I’ve done cheers. - Please read full guide before attempting coil pack conversion, cheers. First, bit of background: I decided to attempt to convert my RB25det to yaris coil packs, I found there's not a huge amount of information out there about this conversion other then people just selling "conversion kits". I found a few really good informative websites about coilpacks & wiring information (which i'll link), and a few photos of some rb's that have been converted, other then that I didn't really find any guide for it. I personally was on a bit of a budget & thought what you got in the conversion kits for the money plainly wasn't worth it. Why Yaris/echo coil packs? -Cheap (i'll include prices of what i paid for everything.) -Reliable -Don't suffer from heatsoak as bad as Splitfires or OEM coilpacks -Good for 100hp per cylinder -Easily attainable -Tried and proved method, common conversion for the 1j and 2jz boys. -Heaps of information around for them, including dwell times etc Part 1: First thing to do is get some coil packs and plugs, I decided to go for Toyota Echo/Yaris coil packs part number: DENSO 90919-02240, I went to 2 local wreckers and found 8 coil packs for a total of $100, depending where you go this might vary. I could have got 6, but for the money & the chance of me blowing them up, I thought it would be a good idea to get spares. A trip down to DIY Wreckers with a pair of side cutters looking for Corollas, Camrys, Echos and yaris’s for the 4PIN denso coil pack plugs, these cost me next to nothing, make sure when you cut them off you leave yourself plenty of wire to rejoin them. Part 2: Mounting plate After looking at a few of the conversion kits, & photos of finished cars this is what I came up with. I used aluminium 4mm plate. The 3 bolts I used to mount the plate to the cylinder head were 70mm long, same thread as the standard coil pack bolts that go into the head. I also got a 12mm long bolt the same thread to earth the head using an eyelet using the last bolt. Think they’re 10mm metric. Mounting coil packs to plate: While I was at the bolt shop I also got 6 x 10mm bolts 35mm long, with 12x nuts. I used the bolts from the bottom, up through the top of the plate & secured them with a nut, then with a washer & an extra nut secured the coil pack to the plate. I don’t have measurements of these holes, as I marked them on the car with a sharpie. Picture tells a thousand words: Wiring: Here we go, the wiring: When using the Denso coil packs, I found the wiring diagram and information about the coil packs on: [Pin 1] Earth / common ground: This grounds each coil to the body / earth, an electric connection to to the cam cover alone is not at all suggested. [Pin 2] IGT / trigger: The signal wire to activate the firing of the coil, triggered directly from the ECU's ignition output. These can paired with another coil for a waste spark connection, for example using two ECU ignition outputs to run four coilpacks. See the next section for more on this subject. [Pin 3] IGF / ignition feedback: Used by OEM ECU's to confirm the firing of the ignition coil. If a coil malfunctions the ECU will sense the lack of this fire confirmation and put itself into a fault / limp mode. This is not normally used at all with an aftermarket /stand-alone ECU and hence only three wires are used for each coil. [Pin 4] Power (+) / ignition power: This is the main power supply for all of the coils, this power feed is activated when the key is turned to the "Ignition" position. The most common and suggested method of connection during a conversion on a four cylinder is to remove the power feed from the original single ignition coil and use it to power all four of the new coilpacks. Pulled straight from SQ engineering, whoever you are thanks!!!! I’ll buy you a 6pack get in touch with me. Now that we know the pin outs of the Coil pack, it’s simply easy to just work out the skyline coil pack trigger wire pin out, & use the factory 12v plug to give them power. Coil Pack Trigger wire colours for S1 RB25det Cylinder numbering goes from Front of block towards the back. Cylinder 1: Blue and Orange Cylinder 2: Blue and Black Cylinder 3: Blue and Red Cylinder 4: Blue and Yellow Cylinder 5: Grey and Black Cylinder 6: Purple and White To join the factory trigger wires to the new coil packs, I cut the factory plug off the trigger wires, bought a 6pin water proof automotive connector from jaycar & terminated my new coil pack loom and the factory harness to the corresponding wires. For 12v i cut the factory plug off the original 2pin connector off your old coil pack harness & solder that to your ground and 12v, think the white was + and black/red was -. Use your multimeter to confirm this. The ground wire (-) needs to be doubled up with the ground from the 2 pin plug & also your cylinder head. Before taping: Finished product: Once loomed all taped up, plate and coil packs mounted. Drives awesome, no hesitation at around 17psi. This guide got way out of hand. F***. If anything seems unclear please let me know so i can edit, cheers.
  17. Hi SAU, HELP!!!!!!!! i need to know the TPS voltage range for an R34 GT4 ATESSA ECU. 32/33 GTR 0.3v - 2.5v 34 GTR 0.5v - 4.5v does anyone know if it’s 32/33 or 34 spec? does anyone have a 34 gt4 and a multimeter that can test pin 37 (tps out) on the factory engine ecu? thanks in advance daryle
  18. Sam62391

    Hello, I'm looking for advice on which model i should use for a reverse camera. I've searched the forums for related posts but haven't found anything of use. This link says i don't have permission to view it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
  19. SkylineSi

    Hey folks! Simon here from Dublin, Ireland checking in. Longtime skyline owner and forum user but can't believe I never signed up here before. Looking forward to learning even more from you guys. 1997 R33 GTST Series2 w/RB25DET running 353bhp at the fly and 351lbs ft torque with a Link G4+ ecu setup on stock S2 turbo, injectors and cat. Need more powers though. Everything else is ready to go(built engine etc) but just need to upgrade the turbo and injectors. I get out on track and runway events as much as possible! Looking forward to getting out more this year in 2018. Thanks, Simon
  20. Hi Everyone, In the last 6 months my brother and I have acquired two R32 sedans, one as a caged rolling body and one running a pretty terrible RB25det setup (big chinese laggy turbo setup, stock ecu etc etc). Fast forward to the present day and the caged R32 now has an LS1 and T56 combination in the bay with the final plumbing to be completed. The RB25det in the other sedan has been converted back to factory with the idea of reliability and maximization of seat time in mind. Will start a build thread in the next week or so, however you can keep up with us at on instagram! Thought it would be a good idea to finally join SAU as the threads have often helped us solve issues and we would love to contribute to the pool of knowledge. Cheers, Sam
  21. Price drop!! I have Decided to go with a Haltech ECU. So I am selling a brand new Apexi Power FC with hand controller (L-Jetro) model: 414BN032 Apexi Power FC & 415-A030 EL series Hand controller Revised Hand Controller functionality Back lit display $900 ONO Also have a brand new genuine Z32 airflow meter with plug $150 ONO
  22. Price drop... I have Decided to go with a Haltech ECU. So I am selling a brand new Apexi Power FC with hand controller (L-Jetro) model: 414BN032 Apexi Power FC & 415-A030 EL series Hand controller Revised Hand Controller functionality Back lit display $1000 ONO Also have a brand new genuine Z32 airflow meter with plug $150 ONO
  23. I have Decided to go with a Haltech ECU. So I am selling a brand new Apexi Power FC with hand controller (L-Jetro) model: 414BN032 Apexi Power FC & 415-A030 EL series Hand controller Revised Hand Controller functionality Back lit display $1100 Also have a brand new genuine Z32 airflow meter with plug $150 or $1200 for both.
  24. I'm having a problem with a constant misfire at around 1700-2800rpm. Tried and Swapped; Unplugging tps Cas swap Plug gap 0.6 - 0.8 - 1.0 Swapping coilpacks with others fuel filter fuel pump injectors I've attached a log file and a video. I have zero idea where to go from here... This problem is only evident on idle and at constant throttle around the 1-5% throttle. 4-11-2017_1915idlefluctuations.csv Video.MOV
  25. Hi. I think my cylinder head has a crack in it, as i started seeing coolant in one of the heads cavities near intake manifold. So im thinking of getting a new one. Question is, which ones fit? Its rb25det neo engine with a turbo. The rest of the car is pretty much stock. Will r33 rb25det head do the job? What other options do i have? Or may the leak be coming from somewhere else? I have a very poor picture of the spot where the coolant is (1st cylinder from the front of the car, right above intake manifolds bolts). Leak is excessive enough to drip on the alternator from there, but i can't notice any coolant level drops in radiator or expansion tank.