Search the Community

Hey guys. So took my car to a local tuner/mechanic to get it looked over, showed low compression cylinders 5 and 6, they did a leak down test, showed exhaust leak was the culprit. Rest of the cylinders were around 160PSI on average. Only issue i had with the car was with the A/C on, when it was a really hot day, and car was warmed up, when the AC belt engaged/disengaged, the revs would drop a little briefly and before the revs picked back up it dropped enough to stall out, also happened occasionally when going from 3rd to 2nd and i did a slow gear change, the revs would drop and engine would stall briefly until i released the clutch and the engine turned over. With A/C off it wouldn’t do that at all. This particular shop unfortunately didnt have the time to do the work for quite a while due to some race events coming up and the cars they were working on for those, so went to another shop that had a bit of a shorter time before i could get in, and had good reviews. They took the heads off, got it machined, serviced, new head studs, new gaskets, upgraded the valve springs and retainers, upgraded the cams, put it all back together. Theyre now getting about 120-130PSI across all cylinders, car really struggles to start up, and is making only 180kw ATW on 20PSI of boost, and previous owner who had all the work/tune done had 300kw ATW when he got a dyno test done Is there something shonky going on? How can the PSI drop so bad across the 4 front cylinders that were ok originally?

Hi all, recently finished my rb25de+t conversion. Runs and drives perfectly - except after idling for about two minutes it shuts off like i have turned off the key, doesnt hesitate or run rough or blow smoke etc just turns off. Since the problem came up i have done the following, regapped spark plugs cleaned and adjusted aac valve checked battery terminals and terminals at both fuse boxes checked every small fuse in cabin and boot extra info for you which may help, im using the following parts stock gtst ecu stock 25de afm missing oxy sensor and light is on dash doesnt have an immobiliser. i cant think of anything that would shut it down so plain witout and issues or rough idling. thanks!

HI There, I have oiling issue on my RB3025 néo engine. I HAVE READ NUMBERS OF TOPICS ABOUT THAT... BUT... found no solution. A complete drawing will be the best to explain my sittuation. Engine is pulling hard, I don't think there is too much blow-by... I really hope a solution to fix that and raise up my boost ! See attached file ! Cheers from France

Hey guys, I have a strange issue with my RB25DET. It seems to have a weird fluttering/wooshing sound when coming on boost, a lot louder than normal. It seems to build and hold boost ok, maybe a little laggier than usual. I'm thinking maybe a boost leak, but here's the spanner in the works: the weird wooshing sound disappears during medium-hard left turns?? How weird is that? Does anyone know what could cause this issue and why it disappears during left turns only??? Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Yeah basically as the title has described. Revs up Decreases, Sometimes holds at 1100rpm momentarily and drops back to normal idle Other times drops back to normal idle no worries Such a weird little sticky point Any ideas? Anyone seen this before?. Video for more clarification. Cheers

hi guys, just got a skyline r33 gts and it wont switch off once i take the key out. even though its meant to be the turbo timer, i dont see no turbo timer located anywhere in the car. so what could the issue be ? thanks.

Hi All, Rear wiper on the R32 GT-R stopped working. No washer jet either. Tried a known working switch to no avail. Fuse looks good. Strange that the washer jet doesn't work any more. Used to work fine until last week. There is a small box just next to the wiper motor in the boot labelled 'amp wiper', will look at replacing it. Still doesn't explain the washer jet not working. Any tips will be appreciated. Thanks.

I recently purchased my non turbo skyline and its been acting up since day 1. I can't determine whats causing it because I know there are multiple things that cause the engine idle to hunt and the engine to die when the clutch is engaged.. I know something or multiple components need to be cleaned because this does not happen every time I come to a stop, it happens at random times. Also it normally never hunts or dies until the engine has warmed up. Just wondering what I should start with first.. I've already cleaned the Throttle Body and the AAC. Some help or lead way would be much appreciated!! -Mitch

Hi everyone, i'm having a starting issue with my a31 cefiro, it has a s1 rb25det in it, the issue is, the car has been working fine, but lately the car stopped starting when turning the key to start, it would just wind over happly not firing, the strange thing is as soon as i released the key it would start, like between start and on on the key barrel? its getting worse and some times won't even start after releasing key, any ideas? thanks

Just picked up my Skyline this week. 2004 6MT Coupe. Apart from the noises I'm about to attempt to describe, it goes hard and I'm very impressed! For its age, it's aesthetics and performance are phenomenal, and the exhaust note is ridiculous, I'm not 100% if it's stock, sounds like a subaru at low speed and then opens up to a higher octave roar . Wish I had bought this before buying my Holden SV6. Noise #1. Whirring-Propeller like noise. (rear) It occurs in tandem with the speed of the car. Emitting from the rear. Faster I go the louder it "whirs", kind of like the sound of a high speed fan makes. Isn't affected by gear change, I coasted in neutral for a bit and it still whirred. After a bit of research, I've narrowed it to potentially being: The tyres, the wheel bearings, or the rear differential. Anyone else had a similar occurrence? Noise #2. Squeaking on left turn. (frontish?) When I turn left, some times right, it will squeak like I am applying the brakes (the noise that is), it'll keep squeaking when I straighten up, until I increase the speed, then it disappears. New brake pads? or something worse? Any help will be much appreciated! I will definitely be taking it to a mechanic on a day off and have everything inspected, but I'd like to go in with a bit of an idea as to the problem. Just figured there may be a simple fix to a known issue that a mechanic unfamiliar with the car may not know. Thanks again.

I have a RB30 with neo head and 3.4l stroker kit. A couple of mornings ago I started it like I do every morning to warm up before going to work. It was idling and just shut off for some unknown reason and wouldn't start up again. I thought it may have been the battery as it was only cranking at 9.3v, however I charged it and the voltage increased. So using the charged battery and also jumping off another car I tried to start it, no luck. Next I checked the fuel lines to make sure it's getting fuel, all good. Then I checked all the coil packs, all were sparking. Then I took all the plugs out and replaced them. Still no luck. The old plugs were covered in what seems like oil, I'm 99% sure it's oil (Picture Attached). I know very little about automotive but I do believe that's not a good sign. I tried cranking after replacing and the new ones were also covered in whatever it is. The engine has less than 10k on it. So the guy that built it reckons it's my immobilizer stopping it, but I haven't had a problem with it ever until now. The crank angle sensor, possibly? I have hooked up the ECU to check for error codes to no avail. Bit more about the car: Port & polished Garrett GTW6262R 1.15AR Flex tuned to 50% ethanol Haltech Platinum Pro ECU with IQ3 Splitfire Coilpacks Turbosmart FPR/Wastegate/BOV Also my oil light kept flicking on every now and then, although the oil seemed fine, may have something to do with it? This is driving me crazy, I'm not in a great financial position to take it to be looked at, so any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!