aspinit

So this is the damage he has discovered so far. 2 cam journals came off or something (I only understand real basic stuff). The oil pressure light was on because it was losing pressure, but I checked the oil every time it did and topped it up if need, most the time the dipstick read as full. So the damage has been caused by low oil, which seems to have been escaping due to the damage around the cam. I'm being told it's my fault for not having enough oil, although I messaged my mechanic and asked him about the reading on the dipstick which he said was fine. I understand that it may be my fault for not having enough oil, but it would've had enough if the engine was built properly and wasn't escaping past the damaged cam? From what it looks like this is going to cost quite a bit to fix. My mechanic is in Tasmania & I'm in Melbourne and I'm struggling to find a company to transport my non running car to Tassie. I've spoken to VACC and they've told me it will be covered by warranty/insurance if it's found I'm not at fault. How much do you guys think I'm up for? Can't believe this has happened

Okay, so my mechanic is insisting I limiter bash it everywhere, which is not the case at all. Its driven to from work everyday in peak hour traffic and gets pushed a little but not to the max every now and then. I've moved states so can't take it back to the guy who built it. Neither him nor the mechanic I've taken it to now can understand what's happened, nor can I. The cam got repositioned but was set 2 degrees out from its original position, I noticed a bit of loss in power and it sounded a little different, but it ran and I drove it around 200km no problems apart from it feeling a little different to before it started playing up and the oil pressure gauge flicking all over the place (Dodgy sensor I'm guessing). This morning same thing happens again, it shit itself and wouldn't start, it didn't sound good at all this time. We did a comp test and it ranged from 190-210. Cylinders 1 5 6 had oil on the plugs and were the lower comp ones. The mechanic said he has no idea what it is unless he takes it apart, which I think he'll be doing. The new mechanic said something about the fuel/air mixture being to rich and it causes problems like this. Could it be running to rich on startup maybe? Because its the second time its happens now on a cold start. What do you guys think?

Well you were right, timing jumped 3 teeth. All I know so far. Guy who built it says the only way it could've happened was excessive cranking, limiter bashing or it backfiring. After blowing the original motor I have learnt to treat this with a lot of respect and don't believe this was my doing. Do you think he should be accountable for this?

The injectors are pulsing, all of them I can hear them all clicking. I've just tested the cam angle sensor and that's fine too. I read the car won't spark if it was the crank sensor, is that true? The timing shouldn't be out the engine doesn't even have 10k on it. I'll get a compression tester next I guess.

The new plugs look similar to the one pictured. Would the ECU be stopping the at from starting to protect it maybe? In saying that it's showing no error codes. I've asked a couple of mechanics about it and has them stumped too.

I have a RB30 with neo head and 3.4l stroker kit. A couple of mornings ago I started it like I do every morning to warm up before going to work. It was idling and just shut off for some unknown reason and wouldn't start up again. I thought it may have been the battery as it was only cranking at 9.3v, however I charged it and the voltage increased. So using the charged battery and also jumping off another car I tried to start it, no luck. Next I checked the fuel lines to make sure it's getting fuel, all good. Then I checked all the coil packs, all were sparking. Then I took all the plugs out and replaced them. Still no luck. The old plugs were covered in what seems like oil, I'm 99% sure it's oil (Picture Attached). I know very little about automotive but I do believe that's not a good sign. I tried cranking after replacing and the new ones were also covered in whatever it is. The engine has less than 10k on it. So the guy that built it reckons it's my immobilizer stopping it, but I haven't had a problem with it ever until now. The crank angle sensor, possibly? I have hooked up the ECU to check for error codes to no avail. Bit more about the car: Port & polished Garrett GTW6262R 1.15AR Flex tuned to 50% ethanol Haltech Platinum Pro ECU with IQ3 Splitfire Coilpacks Turbosmart FPR/Wastegate/BOV Also my oil light kept flicking on every now and then, although the oil seemed fine, may have something to do with it? This is driving me crazy, I'm not in a great financial position to take it to be looked at, so any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the comments, I just let it go because I've just had enough of dealing with him. He charged me $50 p/h for labour so I don't really mind that much. The last time it got towed was to have an exhaust and intercooler piping made, I paid to and from and wasn't told until he had to pay for it. My car is done now and I will be collecting it from Tassie and bringing it back to Victoria in 2 weeks

I don't really contribute hear at all but I need an opinion. I've had a RB30/Neo 3.4 Stroker built at a workshop. Whilst at the workshop the shop relocated. The mechanic wanted me to pay a towing fee between his old and new workshop, I did although didn't think it was fair. Then he got in trouble for having too many cars at his new workshop so he had it moved to my house whilst the engine was being built, I paid towing once again. And now the engine is back in and the piping work needs to be done. He has it being towed to some other workshop to be done and wants me to pay towing again. Towing too and from $70 each time! I don't think this is right/fair. What do you think? What should I say or do?

It is! Thanks, I sold it today through Gumtree.

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1996/SSE-AD-3413609 $8500 Negotiable, No swaps! 1996 Series 2 R33 GTS-T - Yellow jacket coil packs - Adjustable camber arms - Adjustable coil overs - Deep dish rear rims with stretched tyres - Bosch 040 Fuel Pump - New brakes pads Interior: Gear & handbrake cover worn. Rip on passenger side carpet and driver seat. Screen cover on air con unit is missing. Tacho doesn't work. Exterior: Front bar could do with a respray; seals around sunroof need to be painted. Mechanical: Needs a service, brakes have recently been flushed. Brakes do squeal at low speeds. Since I've had the car I have added a Prosport Digital boost gauge, changed the lights in the dash cluster red, changed the brakes, spark plugs and coil packs. I have a detailed inspection report from 10,000km ago.

Posting on here was last resort. I've read everything it could possibly be. I never researched the pads before I bought them. I think it's just the pads from what I've read about them. Looks like I'll be buying new ones! But not before doing some research on them haha. Thanks guys!

I didn't research before I bought them, it does seem there are other people having the same problem with them. Apparently they do stop when they get up to temperature but I don't brake hard all the time so they never do. I have cleaned absolutely everything it's driving me insane. I've tried bedding them in multiple times, 60-0; 80-0; 100-0; 120-0. They are on the old unmachined rotors too, although they look and feel fine. It's only the front brakes to might I add.

The brake pads on my r33 gtst series 2 have been replaced with bendix ultimate pads. They work fine how ever the make a horrible noise when coming to slow stops. I have put anti squeal on the rear of the pads but it done absolutely nothing! The rotors are fine. When I was taking the caliper off the driver side I used a little to much force on the spanner and it bent the brake line inlet into the caliper, surely that wouldn't be the problem would it? Help!!?

I'm trying to find a triple gauge pod for my r33, can anyone help me?! I can't find anything