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Wondering if anyone else has experienced intermittent operation of the boost gauge that's in the three gauge cluster of an M35? There doesn't seem to be any particular occurrence that makes it work and then not work. I guess a good start could be the sender unit as the cluster itself just has a plug? If I was to check the sender unit for the the boost signal, where do I start looking. Cheers Brendan

Up for grabs is my 1993 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T 'M Spec' - Not interested in swaps It has a good amount of mods and has plenty of power and appeal, sounds amazing and doesn't want allot of work done if any. Motor is a extremely healthy RB25DET with Splitfire coilpacks, fuel pressure regulator, pod filter and standard turbo, boosts really early and very smooth. In 2008 was converted to a manual, gearbox is in perfect condition, no knocks, noises and the synchros are in perfect condition. Heavy duty clutch installed at the same time (All mod plated and done properly) It also has a Front Mount Intercooler 3" Stainless exhaust to 3.5" canon, Blitz Turbo Timer, HKS power indicator and a Programmable Apexi SAFC2. The Apexi was on the car when I brought it so I can't confirm when/if it has been tuned and to what power, what I do know is its running standard boost (7spi) and runs perfect. Would be a weapon with a proper tune around the 10-12psi range. Suspension wise it has Tien adjustable coilovers all round and slotted rotors front and back. The only bad points is the wiring to the ECU requires tidying up and the boot layout is a bit messy. Climate control air con needs gassing. Someone with a bit of knowledge and time can do this easily, I have priced it very fairly considering the mods and condition of the car. I am selling it with a safety cert and is registered until the end of February. Car will come with a set of 18x9.5 rears and 18x8.5 Work XT-7's and NOT the zenkais pictured (The Works are worth 3x what the Zenkais are, do your research) Recently replaced valve covers, changed oil + filter and put in a set of spark plugs. The car drives awesome and feels great, I am not after swaps, cash only accepted no banks cheques or internet transfers unless from interstate buyers. Phone to organise an inspection, I am negotiable with price, please mention your a SAU member as its advertised elsewhere so we can organise a deal Any questions phone/sms me or leave a message here. 0433025530. Thanks.

Time to sell my beloved FPV F6 Typhoon in Mercury Silver. The mrs wants to buy a block of land together so the money I get for this will help towards my end of the bargain. It's in pretty damn good condition and well looked, the car has been clear from accident's and has no encumbrance owing on it. Comes in the ZF 6-speed auto which is driving very well, no leaks or anything like that from anywhere on the car. It really is extremely clean and now comes with a full year registration I have just fitted up a brand new set of 20" Silver Agent STAGGERED wheels and tyres, with a whopping pair of 275's on the rear for premium grip and safety. An original XR8 bonnet has also been fitted to it, so there is not much left to do aesthetically. The front and rear brakes were recently replaced costing over $1,800 so you're basically getting brand new Brembo's to go with it. Other than the wheels and XR8 bonnet, the car has just had $3,000 spent on mild performance goodies. Just had a set of 90lb injectors fitted, a high-flow catalytic converter for better breathing, a Plazmaman intercooler, Bluepower CAI and a custom tune, pumping out 302KW at the wheels a mild 13psi. Comes will full service history and the most recent service done at Bluepower was a performance service, achieving great results. The car really has no faults at all so it will pass any inspection and roadworthy by anybody's standards. Happy to provide roadworthy and undergo any sort of test. No time wasters and low-ballers please. The car is extremely clean inside and out, is at an awesome price of $21,990, I have a little room to negotiate as I do need it gone, but no swaps please. A genuine sale Can assist with transporting to interstate buyers Contact Manny on 0488582587

Hi i have a 2001 250t rx and it has recently begun to act a bit strange. The car has always driven great, and been a rocket generating plenty of thrust in the top end, however recently when i was coming up Mt Vic, it suddenly dropped power/boost and seemed to be only running at about 75% of it's normal output. I thought at the time the ecu may have dropped power due to things getting hot ? however my temp gauge was all good. I backed off and pulled over, restarted and as i went over the top of the Blue Mtns it seemed to come good and bounce back, so i thought it may have been a temp thing. Over time its started to do it more regularly, to the point i thought i may have had a blocked exhaust/ cat etc as i also noticed one of the pipes coming out of the muffler tip didn't seem to be flowing at all. I visited my exhaust guy and we pulled the pipe off at the cat and pre muffler and took it for a run and still no improvement, so i guess we can eliminate the exhaust. However a system scan of the car revealed a fault with the knock sensor. Could this be the culprit ? any help would be appreciated cheers

Looking for a turbo to suit my RB20DET. The car is currently running a china T04E and I am sick of having no boost till 4000RPM. I am looking for anything suited to the RB20 engine. Standard R33 turbo would be fine, a TD05 would be perfect, but if you have one sitting around, post up what it is AND THE CONDITION IT IS IN and I will get back to you

hey guys, just did my coil packs last night and found that the boost sensor has been snapped away from the hose. and then blocked up. has been like this since ive had it, 2 months, and jut wndering if this is the course of the "shuddering" ive been feeling? tried to up load pic, but is too big a file!! cheers for any help

I'm after a genuine old school Nismo boost gauge. They look like this: Prefer mechanical type. Am also keen on this model too: Will travel ANYWHERE in Melbourne! Please PM me or contact me on 0403544628 Regards Michael

Hey everyone, Seeing whats out there for swaps or cash sale for my R33 skyline, registered with RWC. Will look at all decent swaps! Here are the mods. ENGINE, TRANSMISSION ETC: * RB25DET series 2 engine (166xxx kms) * 5 SPEED MANUAL * FMIC * T04E turbo * Z32 AFM * s/s highmount manifold * 45mm aluminium radiator with new blue silicon hoses. * greddy style plenum * 80mm throttle body * splitfire coilpacks * custom 3" exhaust with screamer (all heat wrapped) * 38mm Tial external wastegate with 1 bar spring. * custom made stainless steel intercooler piping, all tig welded. * extreme heavy duty clutch * locked diff * heavy duty clamps all round. * Genuine nissan gaskets * always serviced every 5,000kms or less with quality nulon products. * 740CC fuel injectors. * Apexi power FC with hand controller. * Greddy profec B II digital boost controller. * Turbo timer. * HICAS lock bar. * X-Force highflow cat. * x-force muffler. * short shifter. * Gates racing timing belt (2,000 kms old) * GMB high flow water pump replaced at the same time. * replaced fuel hoses and vacuum lines along with clamps. SUSENSION, WHEELS BRAKES ETC: * Brand new rota wheels 18" with awesome offset. * Greddy coilovers * QFM A1RM brake pads all round. * Workshop one 7mm steering lock spacers * solid rear subframe bushes * KKR Rear camber arms * GKtech wheel spacers on the front only. * forged wheel nuts INTERIOR, EXTERIOR: * mint condition interior * new leather boots * drift button * alpine type r rear speakers * sony xplode front speakers * pioneer head unit * HID headlight conversion * White LEDs all round (number plate, parkers etc) * factory Kit? * dark window tint * carbon fibre boot lip * Copy momo deep dish steering wheel * tinted windows Personalised plates do NOT come with car. Minor things that new owner may like to fix: * slight parts of surface rust on rear wheel arches, cheap fix just have never worried about repairing it. I am interested in swaps - will look at other imports, VIP's, rotors.....etc Im sure there is more on this car than what i have listed, basically all parts have been installed within the last 16 months. the car was Dyno tuned by Gavin Wood where it made a healthy and safe 310HP at the rears on 1 bar with loads of torque, will make more HP with a bigger rear housing. SERVICING: I service this car every 5,000kms or 4-6 months, in the last two years of ownership i have put 6,000kms on the car but serviced it 4-5 times as i like to keep it fresh and well looked after. fuel filter, vacuum lines, belts, timing belt, water pump, radiator, radiator hoses etc, everything has been replaced within the last 5,000 kms.

Driving a S1 RSfour c34 and looking to increase boost. bought a gauge,boost controller, BOV. havnt yet installed them since im trying to find time to do it and havnt tested boost pressure yet but does anyone have any tips for how much of an increase i should set without stuffing the engine too much. would like to hear your thoughts and advice and if there are any threads that have a DIY? No other engine mods have been installed either. these are the parts i have; BOV - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370601350609?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_1037wt_1037 Controller - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220656946480?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_500wt_1054 Gauge -http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/150790984556?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Hey all, Looking for OEM RB26 boost restrictor pill from stock boost solenoid hose marked with the yellow band. Thanks.

NM35 Factory Boost Gauge - dodgy readings Hi all, When I bought my 250t RS Four the boost gauge was showing some dodgy readings then packed in. After thinking it might be the well known dry joint issue, I dived in to the engine bay and discovered the vacuum hose had split and fallen off the plenum. Easy fix with some new hose and a zip tie, and all was well again. Fast forward a couple of weeks and I developed a new problem, whereby the boost gauge would show 0 at idle, i.e. pulling no vacuum, building up to 1 under partial throttle. Then obviously it tops out so useless on boost. This evening I tried the 'Scotty Fix' and wielded my soldering iron over the boost gauge sensor. I removed the old solder and renewed the joints on all three known failure points. I redid two I wasn't happy with, and confident that my soldering was now good I popped it back on the car and... it's still showing 0 at idle. So either my engine pulls no vacuum, which I will test with my new mechanical gauge tomorrow (unlikely), or something is amiss electronically (likely). Has anyone come across a similar issue before? Could it be an issue with the gauge unit? Or should I try to find a replacement sensor? Are there any cheaper alternatives? These units are crazy expensive and difficult to get hold of. Thanks in advance, John

[WANTED] EBC WTB: EBC, after either a ProfecB or AVCR (or something just decent) to go into my GTT. Located in Vic, postage preferred but can collect if local-ish.

Regarding the mod here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/42895-howto-rb25det-high-boost-mode-with-standard-solenoid/ Before doing the mod I took my car for a drive to get a baseline on where the guage reads. I found that even at low rpm (=>2500) it's already boosting to the first mark on the boost gauge (which im assuming is 350mmhg or 7psi?) And after 4500rpm it doesn't get any higher. Do some stage as not have the dual boost solenoid mode from factory? I've got a s2 c34 rs4

Hey guys, I'm looking to get my hands on a manual boost controller from turbotech. I live in the states, so I'm unable to purchase one from eBay. I'm prepared to immediately send payment to anyone willing to buy one off of eBay for me to include shipping to the States + some cash on top for your trouble. Thanks!

Not needed as I only wanted the surround for double din. No scratches or cracks on it. Not too sure if the boost and torque gauges work as my car is an AR-X, but the voltage and illumination works. $40 posted Australia wide. Contact Brendon on 0402 seven zero two 102

Hey I have just bought an autometer pro comp boost gauge and it only goes to 20 psi. . I am installing a pair of hks gtss turbos on my car, just wondering will I be boosting my car over 20 psi? It has stock internal but all the other go fast bits and is on e85 sitting at 270rwkw

Weird squeal/screech noise when I hit high rpm/boost in my rb25det neo r34 nissan skyline. Anyone know what this could be? turbo? boost leak? Found here: Cheers.

Hello All, I'm relatively new here but I've been looking around and can't find an answer to my question. I have a 1996 Series 2 R33 GTS25T i got a KKR 480 turbo from a buddy for less than $180 brand new; (He totaled his car needed money to get a new one, that's the reason for being cheap) anyways; I'm curious if when i do swap the turbos will i need to do anything as far as injectors go? I'm putting in new spark plugs this weekend. I have all the supporting turbo mods ~3" catback exhaust ~Blitz FMIC ~HKS cold air intake ~Greddy BOV Right now i'm running stock RB25 injectors and coilpacks. I plan on upgrading these but at the moment i'm saving my money for a proper Garrett or Turbonetics turbo. I'm also aware that i should upgrade these before i purchase the new big turbo but i'm just wondering if i can run this small KKR480 off the stock injection and ignition system. Any help is appreciated. Cheers!

Hey my car has the usual mods and is 270 rwkw on e85 just purchased a set of hks gtss turbos and was wondering what would be the max boost I should push these too on an my unopened rb26? Btw it's in a 32 gtr

Hello So its sorta hard to explain, but ill try my best. I have a 1998 R34 GTT Skyline, It has a rb25det NEO. It has no engine mods other then an oiled HKS Pod filter, Apexi Front mount intercooler and an Apexi AVC-R Boot contoller. I have a problem (is most noticable in 3rd gear) where when i hit apoximatley 5000rpm power drops and from outside the car it sounds like im on red line apprently. I am still obtaining the same out of boost and injection percentage according to the Apexi AVC-R. When i set the boost at stock pressure the problem goes away. However the problem accours again when i turn the boost up. Starting at 9 psi and onward up to 11 psi! (i havent tried to go any higher) iver also tried it with traction control on and off and it makes no difference. Please help, Do i need a tune or new plugs and coils, etc... Thanks for your help, Im new to all this. Alex

Soooo, I have a s2 rb25 in a stagea. Power FC, splitfires, z32 afm, td06, nismo 550cc injectors, gtr fuel, tuned at 18psi. Has been running fine for 6 months until yesterday it has developed a misfire under load and full boost. Seems ok at very light load and cruising. Has constant miss when you stand on it and try and rev it out, also get a lot of black smoke out back. Knock doesn't go above 18 with this happening. I checked injector value in pfc and it got up to 90% just once, normally around 68-70% WOT. AFM voltage with car off is 0.42v according to the power fc and 1.72v at cruise approx. I took plugs out (bpr7es gapped at 0.7), and swapped with some other spares I had laying around (not new but known working) and made very little difference. I sprayed all the vac lines and hose clamps with brake cleaner but no change in idle speed. I did find 1 loose hose clamp after the turbo outlet under the air filter, but after tightening that, no change has been observed. It was dark when I got into changing the plugs so I couldn't inspect the coil packs thoroughly. Might get around to it on the weekend. Any suggestions.

Hey all, so I just bought an R33 and its completely stock other than the exhaust system.. And the previous owner had installed an SBC Blitz boost controller.. Is there any benefit to having a boost controller if the cars basically stock? I've been driving with it off lately because I was thinking it would be no good running the car at higher boost than normal.. I've tried searching but couldn't find anything, cheers!

RB26 Boost Valve Solenoid Hey all, Just a couple of questions about the stock boost/pressure control solenoid on the RB26. Am I correct in saying that the green tube, facing the front of the car, is the inlet tube (to the solenoid) and the blue tube, facing the engine, is the outlet tube (from the solenoid)? If I block either of these tubes completely with a ball bearing will I run true wastegate pressure on the turbos and eliminate any pressure being bled and re-directed back through the system? Cheers, Foszy.

Hi guys, Been driving my 33 for a while now and it has been faultless. However the other week I was cruising at 60 and it felt like the engine power had dramatically decreased..almost cut off. I tried to push down the accelerator harder but the revs were struggling to increase and the car was in a jerky motion. I pulled over to the side and the idle was fluctuating from say 200, where the car would almost die, to 1200 rpm. After a few mins the care felt okay to drive again, but not 100%. Since then, if I don't use boost then the car will drive okay. Once I hit boost hard (1st gear pulls) and while im still in boost, it sounds like the turbo is whistling but the car isn't accelerating much. Then after this short spurt of boost the car will feel sluggish, jerky, and very minimal engine response from the accelerator. The car will end up regaining some power after a couple of minutes but not fully. Prior to this happening I had an aftermarket bov which I had to change back to factory. I thought it could be the issue so I changed it back to the aftermarket one but the car still acts the same. Fuel pump is a wallbro 255 and is fine...still primes when turning the ignition to ON. I'm still thinking it's some kind of fuel related issue. Maybe turbo has had it? Care to shed some light guys? Thanks for the help. EDIT: i have yellowjackets with the standard plugs that rb25dets use.. replaced the plugs only 2000kms ago

R33 boost spike issue Hi all, I need to find a solution to fix a boost spike issue that my car has. It's a 1997 manual GTST, only mods are YJ coils, return flow FMIC, MBC and 3 inch turbo back exhaust. Since I installed my front mount and dialled my boost up to 10/11 PSI I have noticed that when I punch it from 3.5 grand upwards the boost will spike to 12 or 13 PSI for a moment and then taper back to my set pressure. Just last night I installed a JJR bellmouth 3 inch dump pipe and now when I punch it, it will spike to 15 PSI! Would prefer not to launch my exhaust wheel out my exhaust, so I need to get this under control. Do I need an electronic boost controller or what?