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RB20 Turbo selection (twinscroll housing advice) Hey all, To start, this is not going to be another "i just bought my mates R32 and it had stock turbo can you plz reccomend an ebay turbo for 300kw maxx plz thanks". I started this topic because i couldn't find anyone or anything on this forum close to what i want even after searching and reading the whole "RB20 turbo upgrade" thread. The basic info/Supporting mods > Completely standard RB20DET Silvertop (with the possibility of doing valve springs) > NIStune with flexfuel setup > ID1000's > 3" straight through exhaust > 45mm divided turbosmart hypergate > RB26 inlet manifold including ITB's > Hypertune FMIC > Gibson Motorsport GTS-R T3 twinscroll exhaust manifold This is in an S15 that will be my (secondary) daily and 90% drift 10% circuit car. My goal is to make a minimum of 230ish kw on 98 octane fuel, while keeping everything as responsive as possible. Yes i know that responsive and RB20 don't belong in the same sentence and i know that it's never going to happen, but anyway. There is plenty of results all over the net for highflows/GT2871/TD06 in 18 and 20G formats, but these are all using either the stock manifold or various brands of high/low mount open T3 manifolds and standard intake piping with generic intercoolers and long piping. Basically nobody as far as i can tell has ever gone to the lengths that i have to give the RB20 as much of a fighting chance at making some decent power as early as possible. So my question is what turbo setup should i use. Keeping note that any turbo i will run will have a twinscroll manifold and twinscroll rear housing to try and keep as much response as possible. I can use something like a GTX2860/63/67/71 or bump up a frame size to a GTX3067 (Note: 67 no 76). Originally i had canned the GT28 series idea because i was under the impression that there wasn't any twinscroll T3 housings available for GT28's so i had basically accepted that i was going to have to run a GT30. But i found that ATP have this housing available that is exactly what i need. So now knowing that i am back to the drawing board to try and decide what best suits my application. Things of note, 220-230kw minimum on 98 octane would be ideal, but i will be running E85 and a 45mm turbosmart hypergate off the exhaust manifold and i am happy to run big boost (20-25psi) on ethanol to make some decent numbers. Hopefully the 45mm gate should relieve some pressure on the turbo if i decide to go with a GT28 based setup. GTX2860/63/67 with twinscroll T3 .82 A/R housing or GTX3067 with twinscroll .83 A/R housing. Hopefully someone like Lithium/disco/darren can chime in and give me some insight into roughly what power these turbos are capable of on an RB20 that has been given every chance haha. Thanks (INB4 why the fark is some idiot wasting his time and money on an RB20)

Willing to post at buyers expense RB20 Silver top Valve/Cam covers + Coil Cover - $130 ono RB25 Turbo 45V1 with factory lines $250 ono 2x RB20/25 Dump Pipe $50 ono Denso 550cc Top Feed injectors with plugs $350 ono Genuine Nissan Intake Manifold Gasket to suit Nissan Skyline GTR - RB26DETT - NIS-14035-05U10 - New $40 ono Tomei Metal Intake Manifold Gasket - Nissan GTR & Stagea 260RS (RB26DETT) - New $80 ono Factory Valve Spring Retainers - used $50 ono Performance Springs RB26 - Used $120 ono Brian Crower RB26 valve springs - Opened, Never Fitted $220 ono Genuine Nissan Intake Manifold Gasket to suit Nissan Skyline R32 GTS / GTS-4 / GTS-t - RB20DE & RB20DET - NIS-14035-72L11 - $20 Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch Kit (NSK-7056HD) to suit Nissan Skyline HR31 (JDM), R32 GTS-4 / GTS-t & R33 GTS25-t - RB20DET & RB25DET - New $380 ono Exedy Lightweight Flywheel (NF01) to suit Nissan Skyline R32 GTR / GTS-4 / GTS-t, R33 GTR / GTS25 / GTS25-t / GTS-4, R34 25GT / 25GT-4 / 25GT-t & Stagea WGNC34 260RS / RS-Four S - New $540 ono RB26 Fuel rail with NISMO Adjustable fuel reg $150 RB20 Ruel Rail $20

Hello! I've been trying to look for a clear answer regarding rb clutches. I've read that NA Clutch Discs are smaller than the turbo version. So as the clutch cover bolts. I'm trying to look for a clutch kit and a lighter flywheel for my rb20de HR34. I hope someone can enlighten me. I'm a bit confused.

Looking for what actually classifies an R32 as being an M Spec? I've been told mine is but I'm not sure? All they're going off of is that it has blue dash clusters? For reference it's a 32 sedan, factory 20de manual.

I'm after some lift brackets for my RB20 if anyone has any they're willing to let go of. They've been out of production since 2015, and I've checked places such as Nizzpro, Skyline Parts and Spares, and Trix's Parts. Don't tell me to just bolt the chain onto here or there, or ratchet strap around a manifold, I'd like to do it by the book before I have to resort to ghetto

I'm after some lift brackets for my RB20 if anyone has any they're willing to let go of. They've been out of production since 2015, and I've checked places such as Nizzpro, Skyline Parts and Spares, and Trix's Parts. Don't tell me to just bolt the chain onto here or there, or ratchet strap around a manifold, I'd like to do it by the book before I have to resort to ghetto

Hey everyone, I recently started having a problem with my Laurel where after a random amount of time driving, the car will start bucking and hesistating badly at all RPMs. If I put the clutch in or go into neutral while this is happening the idle hunts up and down between 1-2k and then stalls. When it stalls the car will not crank at all, but will start back up if I bump start it. By the time I got it home it fired right up with the key again until it eventually stalled. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm currently stumped.

I’m fitting an rb25 turbo on my RB20 and am wondering what the best sounding outlet pipe is. I’ve looked at the tomei, but I’m not really looking at spending 300 usd for an outlet pipe. What else do you guys think? Also looking at downpipes aswell.

Hi can anyone assist me with a pinout or diagram of the RB20 automatic transmission control unit? Or any of the RB transmission control units? The one with the blue connector. Thanks

Howdy, long story short, I took my car for a 10 minute drive up the road and back. After not driving it for about 3 - 4 hours i decided to move it BUT when I went to crank it the fuel pump didn’t prime it made a humming noise but wasent priming. I checked fuses, ground and still no luck. Next I replaced fuel pump and fuel relay and got a electrician to do it so it’s not dodgy. The fuel pump did the same thing as the last one hummed but didn’t prime and now it isn’t even humming? What should I try next cheers

Hello all, I just bought a 1991 R32 GTS-t bone stock (minus a new cat back exhaust and hks instake) two weeks ago, with no issues other than a crap hicas (getting deleted very soon). The car has started without any issue whatsoever and ran perfectly for these past two weeks until today. I was going for a drive with some friends who were on their bikes and we pulled into a gas station so they could fill up (like 5 min into the drive) and I turned the car off to wait. Went to start it and all lights and power worked, turned the key all the way to start, and nothing. Only a click from the clock area and the red hot cat light lit up a lil brighter. No starter, no starter click, just a turned key and acc (radio, toll card reader, and clock dimming) would shut off until I turned the key back to it's regular 'on' position. I had the biker boys go get a new 30A block fuse (one that goes under the hood) because it looked like it might have burnt out... 15min later and we put a new one in, turned the car on, and vroom it was all good. Went for the drive, no issues, about 30min later we stopped by the beach to take a few pictures. Turned off the car, went to start it 3min later and same issue. No starting at all, and same reset of the acc. Started looking at everything we could there, still looked good, started looking up any info on my phone and only found the classic "turns over but doesn't run". No one with my issue from what I could find. While on my phone searching, I decided "heck it, I'll try to start it again why not" and it started right up with no issues. Decided to go straight home to try to figure it out. Got home just fine and turned it off, then back on and it was fine. Turned it off and tried again but nothing, same issue as before. We checked every fuse we could find (under steering area and hood), none had any issues at all. Took off the steering area plastics to get to the ignition switch, and saw that the brown base was slightly loose, although the screw was very tight. Tried to get the screw out but no luck, so we tried starting it again and it started right up. Turned it back off and tried it again, nothing. Same issue as before. At this point I have no idea where else to look, or how to get the ignition switch out. It's a saturday right now and I have a mechanic who's really good with odd cars and I plan on bringing it to him monday. I'm open to suggestions on what to look for or try. I have yet to look at the relays by the fuses but that's the only other thing I can think of. If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear them because I have no idea. Battery is also new and tested good. Thank you in advance!

Hey guys! So I am currently working on my new project which is an auto r33 gts with a yucky rb20e inside of it. I was looking at a couple of options to do an engine swap. I have a choice to go with an rb25de or an rb20de (as am currently still on p plates in QLD) If i am to go with the rb20de option i would like to look at going turbo in the near future as it will still remain p plate legal. I would like to know what is required to swap for both engines and would like to know your personal thoughts on what I should do. all help is much appreciated thank you!!!

Who has used one? Has anyone cracked a block since fitting one? Discuss.

Hi, I'm after a RB20 5 speed gearbox working or not working condition. I'm in Melbourne, Victoria. Let me know what you have. Thanks

Selling red rocker covers as pictured. $60

So this is more of a curiosity than anything else, but i figured id ask. We all know cars are tuned rich from the factory, for safety, my question is, can you increase boost safely without tuning the car? Common sense would suggest no, but is it possible? Has anyone done this? Ive got a 92 GTSt with an RB20 and considering the lack of tuneability with the stock ECU (originally came from the world of open source tuning subarus), can you dial in 1 or 2 psi safely without actually going to a NIStune or standalone and not compromise AFR pr ultimately your engine? Hopefully someone has some answer cause here in the states i mostly get a blank stare and "dunno".

note: I am advertising this on behalf of someone else FOR SALE: Link Plus ECU in unused condition This ECU suits twin cam RB heads and is plug-in. What you will receive: USB data cable Wiring Loom MAP Sensor Water temp sensor Adapter box Air temp sensor Installation manual The ECU itself Some capabilities of this ECU: Variable fuel pump speed and relay control Interfaces with engine coolant temperature, fuel temperature and intake air temperature Boost control solenoid compatibility Variable Valve Timing control A/C fan control Launch Control Advanced fuel injector control Intercooler water spray, vehicle speed and shift light capability, there are too many features to list here! $2,500 Or Best Offer, Located in Bendigo, Victoria Please don't hesitate to enquire for more information or pictures, the seller can be reached on the following phone number: 0417 513 871

Hi Would like to buy a oil filter housing/adapter. Preferably located in Melbourne Thanks in advanced

We are proud to offer Skylines Australia the worlds best priced performance coil packs. With thousands of sets sold worldwide, these are proving to be very popular and have been on the market for around 8 years now with some very impressive results. Here is what one of our happy customers had to say about them: I've been running these Yellow Jackets now for 3 months in my R33 GTR. Still no problem with spark blowout as I previously did with the old coils, and still plenty of power! Done 2 HARD track days with no problems at all. Even added extra timing. Now at 28deg at 8000rpm WOT! Over 320+kw now! I have now bought a second set of Yellow Jackets for a mates R32 GTR which had a constantly changing misfire, even after gapping the plugs to 7mm and replacing them. He wanted to upgrade the turbo's for higher boost, so I said he would have to change the coilpacks. He was dubious that this would fix ALL his problems, so the turbo's were fitted. No improvement of the misfire after installing the turbos, running them in and resetting the ECU. So I fitted the coils, gapped the plugs to 1.1, and reset the ECU. He didn't believe me that this was going to work, but low and behold, smooth idle, acceleration, and cruise! He couldn't believe the difference in the 'seat of your pants' feel in acceleration (stock boost). Going to do a dyno run soon to see what the difference at stock boost is compared to original figures. Then a re-tune and add a boost controller. Bang for buck, these Yellow Jackets cant be beat! Unfortunately, out doing a "road test" in the R33 GTR, with the street tires, and now with bucket loads of extra torque, managed to break second gear. Same sort of use/abuse with the old coils packs couldn't produce the same 4 wheel power slides, just under heavy acceleration! Luckily I had a spare gearbox, so I could make it to the track days. BENEFITS: - Increase in torque. - No spark blowout at higher boost. - Improved throttle response and smoothness. - Increased Ignition Performance. - Improved Combustion. - Direct Fit. - 2 Year Warranty. - Solid Construction. - Cost effective. SATISFACTION GAURANTEED Manufactured with Components from GE (USA), BASF (Germany) and Epoxy Resins from Switzerland. EXCLUSIVE ONLY TO PERFORMANCE-WISE --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- YELLOW JACKETS COIL PACKS PRODUCT RANGE: YELLOW JACKETS COIL PACK SET - YJ-RB202526-S1 - AU$400.00 delivered within 2-3 business days - - COMES IN A SET OF 6. - DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE FOLLOWING NISSAN RB MODELS: SKYLINE R32 GTS-YHR31/HCR32/HR32-RB20DE (1989>94) SKYLINE R32 GTST/4-HCR32/HNR32-RB20DET (1989>94) SKYLINE R32 GTS25-ECR32/ER32-RB25DE (1991>93) SKYLINE R33 GTS Series 1-ENR33/ER33-RB25DE (1993>95) SKYLINE R33 GTSTSeries 1-ECR33/ER33 RB25DET (1993>95) SKYLINE R32 GTR-BNR32-RB26DETT (1989>94) SKYLINE R33 GTR-BCNR33-RB26DETT (1995>98.) STAGEA WGNC34 (AUTECH)-RB26DETT (1997) CEFIRO A31/CA31-RB20DE (1990>92) CEFIRO A31/CA31-RB20DET (1990>92) CEFIRO LA31-RB20DE (1990>94) CEFIRO LA31-RB20DET (1990>94) CEFIRO LCA31/LNA31/NA31-RB20DET (1990>94) CEFIRO EA31/ECA31-RB25DE (1992>94) LAUREL HC33/HCC33-RB20DE (1991>93) LAUREL HC33/HCC33-RB20DET (1991>93) LAUREL HC34-RB20DE (1993>94) LAUREL EC33/ECC33-RB25DE (1991>93) LAUREL GC34-RB25DE (1993>94) LAUREL GC34-RB25DET (1994) LAUREL GCC34-RB25DE (1993>94) LAUREL GCC34-RB25DET (1994>) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- YELLOW JACKETS COIL PACK SET - YJ-RB2526-S2 - AU$400.00 delivered within 2-3 business days - - COMES IN A SET OF 6. - DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE FOLLOWING NISSAN RB MODELS: SKYLINE R33 GTS Series 2-ENR33/ER33-RB25DE (1995>98 ) SKYLINE R33 GTST Series 2-ECR33/ER33-RB25DET (1995>98 ) SKYLINE R34 GTR-BNR34 - RB26DETT (1999+) STAGEA WGC34 (2WD)-RB25DE (1996>97) STAGEA WGNC34 (4WD)-RB25DE (1996>97) STAGEA WGNC34 (4WD)-RB25DET (1996>98 ) CEDRIC/GROLIA ENY33-RB25DET (1997>99) LAUREL GC34-RB25DE (1994>97) LAUREL GC34-RB25DET (1994>97) LAUREL GNC34-RB25DE (1994>97) LAUREL GCC34-RB25DET (1994>97) LEOPARD JENY33-RB25DET (1997) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- YELLOW JACKETS COIL PACK SET - YJ-RB2025-N - AU$400.00 delivered within 2-3 business days - - COMES IN A SET OF 6. - DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE FOLLOWING RB NEO MODELS: SKYLINE R34 GT ER34/ENR34 - RB25DE NEO (1998+) SKYLINE R34 GTT ER34 - RB25DET NEO (1998+) STAGEA WHC34 - RB20DE NEO (1997-1998) STAGEA WGC34 (2WD) - RB25DE NEO (1997+) STAGEA WGC34 (2WD) - RB25DET NEO (1998+) STAGEA WGNC34 (4WD) - RB25DE NEO (1997+) STAGEA WGNC34 (4WD) - RB25DET NEO (1998+) CEDRIC/GROLIA ENY34 - RB25DET NEO (1999+) LAUREL HC35 - RB20DE NEO (1997-1998) LAUREL GC35/GNC35 - RB25DE NEO (1997+) LAUREL GC35/GCC35 - RB25DET NEO (1997+) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- YELLOW JACKETS COIL PACK SET - YJ-RB20313233 - AU$420.00 delivered within 2-3 business days - - COMES IN A SET OF 6. (NO HARNESS ADAPTORS REQUIRED). - DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE FOLLOWING RB20 MODELS: SKYLINE HR31-RB20DE (1985>89) SKYLINE HR31-RB20DET (1985>89) SKYLINE YHR31/HCR32/HR32-RB20DE (1985>89) CEFIRO A31/CA31-RB20DE (1988>90) CEFIRO A31 CA31-RB20DET (1998>90) FAIRLADY Z PZ31/PGZ31-RB20DET (1985>89) LAUREL HC32-RB20DET (1986>91) LAUREL HC33/HCC33-RB20DE (1988>91) LAUREL HC33/HCC33-RB20DET (1988>91) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- YELLOW JACKETS COIL PACK SET - YJ-SR20-S1 - AU$310.00 delivered within 2-3 business days - - COMES IN A SET OF 4. - DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE FOLLOWING SR20 MODELS: SILVIA/200SX - PS13/KPS13 - SR20DET - (1991-1993) SILVIA/200SX - S14/CS14 - SR20DET - (1993-1999) 180SX - RPS13/KRPS13 - SR20DET - (1991+) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- YELLOW JACKETS COIL PACK SET - YJ-SR20-S2 - AU$310.00 delivered within 2-3 business days - - COMES IN A SET OF 4. - DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE FOLLOWING SR20 MODELS: SILVIA - S15 - SR20DET - 1999-2002 X-TRAIL GT(Jap Spec) - SR20VET - 2002-2007 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- YELLOW JACKETS COIL PACK SET - YJ-CA18 - AU$310.00 delivered within 2-3 business days - - COMES IN A SET OF 4. (NO HARNESS ADAPTORS REQUIRED) - DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE FOLLOWING CA18 MODELS: BLUEBIRD U13-CA18DE BLUEBIRD U13-CA18DET EXA N13-CA18DE (1987>91) EXA N13-CA18DET (1987>91) SILVIA S13/KS13-CA18DE (1988>91) SILVIA S13/KS13-CA18DET (1988>91) 180SX RS13/KRS13-CA18DET (1989>91) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- YELLOW JACKETS COIL PACK SET - YJ-VQ35-S1 - AU$400.00 delivered within 2-3 business days - - COMES IN A SET OF 6. DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE FOLLOWING NISSAN MODELS: SKYLINE PV35/CPV35 (03-06) SKYLINE V35 250GT/300GT VQ25DD/VQ30DD SKYLINE V36 SEDAN (up to 2009) SKYLINE ©PV35 350GT (VQ35DE, 06/2001 - 09/2007) STAGEA NM35 250T / AR-X FOUR (VQ25DET, 10/2001 - 08/2004) STAGEA : PM35/PNM35 (01-07) INFINITI FX35 (03-08) INFINITI G35 COUPE/SEDAN (03-07) INFINITI M35 (06-08) M35 VQ25DET (06-07) FAIRLADY Z / 350Z Z33/HZ33 (Includes roadster) - (03-06) 350Z Z33 Touring Series 1 (VQ35DE, 12/2002 - 01/2007) 350Z Z33 Track, Series 1 (VQ35DE, 12/2002 - 01/2007) FUGA : PY50/PNY50/Y50 CEFIRO A33 (99-02) LEOPARD Y33 (97-99) CEDRIC Y34 (99-04) GLORIA Y34 (99-04) MAXIMA (02-08) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- YELLOW JACKETS COIL PACK SET - YJ-VQ36-S2 - AU$400.00 delivered within 2-3 business days - - COMES IN A SET OF 6. - FACTORY RUBBER BOOTS AND INTERNAL SPRINGS REQUIRED. DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE FOLLOWING NISSAN MODELS: VQ35HR & VQ35DE 3.5L V6 / VQ37VHR 3.7L V6 / VR38DETT 3.8L V6 : R35 GTR VR38DETT (08-12) SKYLINE PV36/V36/NV36 SKYLINE V36 sedans PV36/KV36 (06-08)INFINITI G35 COUPE/SEDAN (03-07) INFINITI EX35 (08-Up) INFINITI G37 TEANA PJ32/J32 MURANO PZ51/PNZ51 FAIRLADY Z Z33/HZ33 350Z (Includes Roadster) - (07-08) Z34 (370Z) VQ37VHRFUGA PY50/PNY50/Y50 FX35 (09-Up) M35 (08-09) ALTIMA SEDAN (07-12) ALTIMA COUPE (08-12) MAXIMA (09-Up) MURANO (09-Up). V36 VQ37VHR (2008-Up) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- YELLOW JACKETS COIL PACK SET - YJ-VG30-S1 - AU$450.00 delivered within 2-3 business days - - COMES IN A SET OF 6. - DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE FOLLOWING NISSAN MODELS: VQ Fairlady Z (300ZX) Z32/GZ32/GCZ32 - VG30DE & VG30DETT --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- YELLOW JACKETS T-SHIRT (Mens & womens) - AU$30.00 delivered - Front print - Plain back. 100% pre-shrunk cotton. Available in White or Grey only. Sizes - Small / Medium / Large / Extra Large / Extra Extra Large --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - The link next to each item will take you to our site where you can view pics & details and where you can purchase & pay via Paypal with our secure online checkout system. We also take direct deposit, bank check or postal money order. Please PM me for details. Please PM or contact us if you have any questions regarding these items. Cheers, Paul. www.performance-wise.com www.performance-wise.net www.yellowjacketscoilpacks.com

Hey guys, Im in serious need of a rear fuel pressure regulator from a Series 2 RB20DET. Im more than willing to pay shipping from anywhere! Hope someone has something for me! Dan

Is anyone else here straight piped? Yesterday while cruising at like 3.5k rpm for bout half a mile or so I came to a res light and saw a little bit of smoke from the tail pipe and it had a burn like smell for a split second. Then today I checked rear view mirror after giving some throttle from a res light and saw a little bit of smoke too. This hardly ever happens. Just wondering if it’s a no cat kinda ordeal. My ford is straight piped as well but I haven’t driven it in half a year due to an electrical issue.

So I just bought a used rb20, and I am about to install it into my car. The only problem is when I went to bolt the trans to the engine I noticed my block does not have the two holes to mount the "pig ears" or "bellhousing to engine brackets". I am kinda stummed and don't know where to go from here... any help is appreciated.

Brand new MoTeC M84. Only being sold due to upgrade to M1 series. $2,300 without loom shipped anywhere in Australia. Can supply unterminated loom for an additional $250 if bought with the ECU. Full specifics available here; http://motec.com.au/m84/m84overview/ Can run up a V8 or Quad Rotory Motor. Has onboard Lambda and 1mg of logging

I am curious what turbo options are available for the stock bottom mount manifold. Can you put a TD06-20 or 25G on if you custom make a downpipe?

Hello, so i have my aftermarket coolant gauge wired to an sensor in the upper hose, the 2 wires can be seen going into the sensor, but I want to use the existing port that is for the stock coolant gauge. The problem is there are 2 wires going to the sensor i have now in the upper hose, but only 1 going into the stock location where i want to wire my aftermarket gauge too. What do I have to do to wire it? I dont think the stock sensor is a 1/8th npt size either? (pictures below) Thanks for any help