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Found 1,478 results

  1. Sau 24 hour lemons road trip So us fat bloke have entered the 24 hour race in queensland 23 September I think this is a proper 24 hour day night event if anyone knows someone from a fuel company hook us up the beast Rb25na power the drivers brian team leader The fatz The Mexican (halaltech hater) piss bin (possibly the only f**ker who can drive) and rhys Anyway come along for the ride through this thread
  2. R33 GTR 1000HP Parts Hi guys, parting out my R33 GTR 1000HP street car. Basically everything is up for sale. All parts have done no more than 5000 street kms and dyno runs. Reason for selling as ive been EPA'd.. again and i keep losing my license, and being a mobile mechanic is shit with no license lol Have deposits on os88 gearbox and clutch Also deposit on RB30 3.2 nitto bottom end and 26 head, if it falls through will advertise. Parts for sale: Plazmaman GTR intercooler, 4 inch outlets and 100mm. Good for 1500hp. Asking $1200 ono 1300hp CDI ignition system kit from hi octane, which includes everything, Asking $2000 ono Motec M800 Asking $3000 ono ARC 4 inch titanium exhaust from dump, Asking $2500 ono HKS oil cooler kit, Asking $1000 ono Hypertune single throttle body intake manifold and 100mm hypertune throttle body, Asking $2000 ono Genuine ID2000cc injectors x6 and fuel rail, Asking $1250 ono Two 45mm turbosmart gates with 14psi springs, Asking $600 ono Custom made 26/30 twin pulse, twin gate exhaust maifold to suit gtx4294 top mount, Asking $600 ono GTX4294 with 1.01 rear housing, Asking $1500 ono Two 044 fuel pumps and surge tank, Asking $300 Ross balancer and trigger kit, Asking $750 ono Quiafe front and rear differentials, Asking $3000 ono Tein Coilovers, Asking $1000 ono Probs a few more items to mention that ive forgotten, if you want photo's or have any questions, feel free to contact me on here or my mobile, 0423 756 123 All parts still in car, will remove all most likely this weekend. Cheers, Christian
  3. Wtb: 4" xforce varex oval muffler After a good condition 4" inlet/outlet oval xforce varex muffler please PM me of you have one for sale thanks
  4. Rb26 hypertune intake manifold and throttle body Hi guys, Selling my hypertune intake manifold and 100mm throttle body. Selling due to parted rest of car out. Its in good condition. Has a few scratches underneath due to a few removals when it was on the engine and was on a 26/30 so made it a tight fit. Does not come with injectors or fuel rail. Asking $1800 ono Located Melbourne vic. Christian 0423 756 123
  5. R32 Gtr fuel pump wiring Hey there, I have a r32 Gtr which is running a nismo lift pump to 2 Bosch 044s and a surge tank. I've wired all three pumps up to new relays all getting power source from the battery in the boot. Each pump has their own earth which are solid, sort and to bare metal. During my wiring of the pumps I removed the factory pump relay. I just need a hand getting the right switch feed for my relays. I'm currently using a 12v accessories wire in the boot as the switch wire for the relays so the pumps receive 12v as soon as the keys are on accessories. What I'd like to know is which wire should I use for the switch of the relays ( I thought it was pin18 black and pink) out of the ecu but that wire has no power from it. Any assistance would be great for what wire people use from the ecu. Cheers
  6. R32 GTR won't start, please help So I am running short on ideas to get my car started, part of this thread is copied from another question I posted about the CAS which was answered (thank you!). I have searched around for similar issues and I feel like I have attempted all the solutions people had success with when having similar issues. The car is a 1991 GT-R was delivered to me back in February in partially running condition. It would miss sporadically at partial throttle and would die out the moment I let off the gas. Since then the car has stopped running altogether. The last time I took it around the block to test a repair it was extremely hard to get restarted and keep running. Each time it died I had to crank on the starter for 15-20 seconds before it would fire up and then I had to keep my foot on the gas so it wouldn't die. I limped it into the garage and it has been sitting there since. The car will turn over but will not start. Sometimes I get a backfire. The only code the car was throwing was for "ignition", I think it was a 12 but it has been a few months since I checked it. I do not know all of the modifications aside from what I have found by visual inspection. The engine mods include: RSR 4" cat-back Greddy downpipe R34 GTR stock turbos (not N1's) Mine's intake Blitz BOV's The intercooler has NISMO on it but I haven't checked the plates on the core to see if it's legit Work done so far: Opened both MAF's to check for loose solders (all connections were good), cleaned both MAF's Cleaned air filters (Mine's intake with K&N's) New NGK BCPR7EIX Iridium plugs (it had some ngk race plugs installed when it arrived) New battery New coil packs New coil pack wiring harness New fuel pump (aeromotive 340) New fuel filter New ignition module (the old one tested bad and I really hope this would solve the issue haha) Tried to start the car with starter fluid (sprayed in behind one of the mafs to avoid messing it up) New CAS Thanks in advance for any feedback, suggestions, or input! Brock
  7. Hi Guys, For a while i have been thinking about starting a thread, updating what i do to my GTR. As most of the performance stuff has already been done it will be pretty much all cosmetics. So first things first. A bit of History. Bought the car from a local guy here in Canberra. 3 Months later my engine went Bang cause: Dirty fuel caused massive detonation. Cracking Piston #2, did a bloody good job of it (it was actually split in half). And the Piston rings had melted to the pistons. Obviously it had a very lard life.....Here is was the compression test: 1/15 2/0 3/25 4/125 5/90 6/50 9 Months later i had it back with my full forged bottom end and completely new fuel system. Here is what the engine looked like directly from the rebuild for the run in. When the car was being rebuilt i had a look at the turbos (looked almost brand new) and took the gamble to leave the stock ceramic turbos in as i love my response. heinsight is a wonderful thing. 500KM into the run in phase i spat the exhaust wheel from 1 of my turbos into my cat. Sigh. Ultimate tunes where kind enough not to charge me for the labour to install new turbos. Thanks again guys. Decided to go with -7's to try to keep my response levels to where i like them whilst having a bit more power. Kept going through the run in phase. On the way to work i lost an AFM. Back in it went. Again ultimate tunes didn't charge me at all for the AFM! Can't recommend them enough. Anyway after that it has pretty much been smooth sailing. From there about 3 months after the run in and everything was smooth i decided to add a bit more. This time it went in for the following: New catch can Tomei Type B cams and adjustable cam gears Full Painting of the head (Bayside Blue) Z32 AFM. Also put stock BOVs in as my ones where ATMOS and i hated them. Since i had asked to replace the cams Adrian decided to pull the head off to make sure that everything was A OK with the engine. Since that was off i decided to pain the Plenumm as well. Here is how it came back to me: From there i decided to start to try out a few things. I managed to track down a set of Original stickers for my wheels (Took me 4 months of searching, 5 minutes for someone on SAU). Very happy i found these... Next came a bit of fiddling with the engine bay. Painted both the radiator overflow and the washer bottle: I also managed to track down a fuse box cover for $5 so i bought another one and pained that black as well. Next i decided on a strut brace. I spent probably 2 months thinking about what strut brace. Was going to go a MINES strut brace but decided that i could not justify the extra $1000 over the HKS Kansai. So i went the Kansai, and at the same time i replaced my POD filter element with a blue one and bought a Nismo vision cover: Now we are pretty much up to date. But i still have so much more to do. Plans for the not too distant future: HKS hard pipe kit Koyorad 53mm radiator Full braiding lines for the fuel system, catch can etc.. Re do interior with new dash, Nismo interior and other little bits and pieces and as i go restore parts as i see fit. I have literally just ordered another $200 worth to go in ASAP. So stay tuned.... If you have any feedback/Ideas input is welcome!
  8. R33 GTR Front Diff Bearings Does anybody know the cross reference part number for the R32/R33 GTR front diff bearings? I've stripped it apart and brought the bearings to a bearing shop to no avail. Was suggested it has to be OEM. Otherwise, if any shop is willing to sell me the complete set of; Diff centre bearings x2 Input pinion bearings x2 Input pinion seal x1 Bearing retainer seal (driver side front shaft seal) x1 Shoot me a PM and price with delivery to Perth metro.
  9. R34 GTR Diffuser Blades For sale genuine set Nissan R34 GTR diffuser blades brand new 400 dollars . 0419 912 902
  10. Steve's R33 LM Limited Upkeep Hi all, I've been stalking these pages for a quite a long time now. Thought i should throw my car up for everyone to look at. Some of you will be familiar with this car already as I purchased it from Gav in Perth. Gav had this car built by Glavsport and it has been a no expense spared build. With that in mind I too have decided to buy things once and any changes that go onto the car will be the highest quality I can reasonably manage. You may be aware that my start with this car was somewhat turbulent as someone tried to steal it from me on the first day I drove it. (See link: Steve's Intro ). Since then I have hidden the car away under lock and key (and other security measures). The car has just returned to me now from Racepace in Bayswater. We (well, not really we, more the guys at Racepace) made some changes to my car, repaired the damage from the break in and installed a new immobiliser and tracker. It's nice to have the car back in one piece and using a key to start it, rather than any flat item jammed into what was left of the ignition. One of the biggest issues I was having was fumes coming into the cabin from under the bonnet/car. It turned out to be a twofold issue. 1. The exhaust was pinched and suffering from E85 damage (it was a 3" mild steel exhaust) 2. The oil catch can breather may have been letting fumes into the air vents for inside the car. The guys at Racepace have fabricated and installed a brand new 3.5" exhaust with V-Bands and tuned length headers to solve the exhaust problems and they also rerouted the catch can fumes into the rear turbo so they are expelled through the exhaust. With the new exhaust it was necessary to re-tune the car on the dyno so this was also completed. As someone who doesn't get to drive fast cars much, millions of kWs were deemed unnecessary. I asked the guys specifically if they could turn the engine down to a level it will be happy to perform at for a long, long time. In tuning the car the guys turned the engine up to what they deemed a reasonable level, then turned it back down as I requested. The net result of the tuning was: Full power: 505.4kW (atw) at 27psi Final Tune: 410kW (atw) at 22psi I've also got some pictures of the exhaust going in and a dyno run video coming soon.
  11. R34 exterior parts (GTR & GTT) Hi guys, I sold my r34 late last year and I'm looking to offload the leftovers sitting in my garage. If I find other bits and pieces around I'll update this thread with prices and pictures. 1. OEM R34 GTR Boot lid - factory white, perfect condition, purchased from a highly reputable member on here a while back, no defects: $100 2. GENUINE Garage Impul R34 GTT front bar - black, slight fibreglass damage and paint cracking, much higher quality however than the replica bars that sell for around $400, repairs required: $250 Pictures to come this afternoon, drop a PM if interested. Freight to be organised by buyer, at buyer's expense. Pick up is fine, located in Canberra Tom
  12. Hi guys Been meaning to do this for months now...better late than never so here goes... I have always, well for as long as I can remember, loved the GT-R Skyline. Previously I owned a couple of r32 gts-t Skylines and since selling my last one back in 2006 (link below) I have been waiting patiently… http://www.skylinesa...20r32%20200rwkw Since selling the gts-t I knew a GT-R would be next and in March 2012 the 5 year + wait was over.... I wasn’t really looking when this one came up locally…but it was in the best factory colour (in my opinion) and had minimal mods from standard. Bolt on parts included: Suspension (Tein coilovers) Exhaust (5Zigen cat back) M’s intakes with K & N air filters Wheels (Rota 17 x 9’s) ECU (Mines upgraded) Steering wheel That’s pretty much it. Standard gear really. As soon as I looked at the car I started mentally making a list of all the things I wanted to change/fix/upgrade mainly to make it as reliable as possible. Growing up around motors you quickly learn reliability is paramount! Man did I open a MASSIVE can of worms!!! I literally only drove 100 kms or so before parking her up and started getting stuck in. It’s been sitting on the hoist for going on 8 months now… Next begins the strip down...stay tuned, I am in deep now haha
  13. R32 GTR Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 Retrofit So after numerous ridiculous nights driving without adequate lighting in my R32 Skyline. I decided to do something about it. I reached out to TRS customer support and they began to point me in the right direction. I made a few additional calls to a couple of individuals TRS referred me too as they had completed retrofits on a few R32's as well. After these insightful discussions I boiled it down to going with either the Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 or the Morimoto Mini DS2 4.0. After numerous recommendations I chose the DS2 4.0! I placed my pre-ordered through TRS and waited patiently for these bad boys to come in. As soon as they arrived it was time to get to work. First of all I must say the quality and design of these are incredible, but they weren't going to install themselves. After staring at them for at least 2 hours and surfing numerous forums on previous retrofits it was apparent that I was not getting this done without hacking at my OEM projector. See the DS2 is significantly smaller and shorter than the OEM projector so I would need a bracket to step up to the OEM placement. What better bracket to manipulate than the OEM. I proceeded to cut the OEM housing leaving only the OEM frame. (Never mind the blocks they came later. Forgot to take a pic of the bracket when I first cut it) At this point I lined up the DS2 4.0 and used a punch to mark placement of the screws and created and cardboard template to determine what approach I was going to use to secure. I've seen numerous individuals shave the OEM brackets as thin as possible, trim, drill and separate the new projector to mate in between the fabricated OEM bracket. I chose a different route as I did not want disrupt what I assumed to be a carefully thought out design so I ended up welding blocks (about an 3/4" long and a 1/4"of an inch high) along each corner where I originally marked, then drilled holes, and checked fitment a few times, shaving each block respectively using a small level. Ensuring fitment between bracket and OEM bezel I must say final fitment is incredible! secure and as flush as OEM. Only one issue I caused myself was I forgot to trim the OEM bracket to allow the wiring for the high beam solenoid so I took a Dremel and filed away enough space to allow for the connector to secure into the projector. All in all I'm super stoked and can't wait to install on my vehicle.
  14. Motec m800 Hi guys, Selling my motec m800, Selling due to parting out my car. Is unlocked and had logging unlocked. Basically thats it. Asking 3k ono Located in Melbourne vic. Christian 0423 756 123
  15. R33 GTR V spec - Series 2 up for sale is my series 2 v-spec R33 gtr Reason for sale is change of circumstances with work, it is unfortunate but this is the most logical thing to do Power fc with hand controller Greddy elec boost controller Nismo cluster 188XXX Nismo gear knob Billion digital thermo fan controller Blitz power id meter Blitz hardpipe intakes Top secret imports air box Hks hardpipe intercooler kit Greddy catch can Copper radiator Silicone radiator hoses 5zigen front pipes and cat back Also come with a hks diff back Blitz kevlar strut brace Excedy clutch and light weight flywheel Tein coilovers Nismo front caster arms Nismo rear camber arms Nismo control arms Series 3 headlights (xenons) Series 3 bumper and n1 ducts Series 3 front lip (brand new) Genuine n1 bonnet lip (bolted into bonnet) Cusco bonnet pins Nismo front indicators Nismo side indicators Varstoen 19" 9.5 +20 New New internal locking nuts Will come with x force dump pipes Running 19psi Turbos should be steel internals for that much boost but hard to say without pulling apart I have attached invoices for massive overhaul and everything mechanically done by top secret at 174000. text my phone, you'll get instant response and im happy to take more photos/videos if needed I have knocked the price down to 30k. I am solid at this amount. do not bother low balling me Bad points small crease on left rear quarter and the bonnet pins on the paint work air con idle hasn't been set up correctly in the power fc, stalls after a minute on idle drivers mirror doesn't fold in with switch wheels need to be re balanced. Slight vibration in steering at 100km. Only started when i put these wheels I will consider swapping for a s15 with a proper cash adjustment. Needs to be adm, factory blue, sunroof, cloth seats and factory turbo/manual. dont bother trying to swap me a piece of shit.
  16. Speedtek Gearset Review This is a review based on my experience and may not correlate to your experience when dealing business with Speedtek Auto Racing Parts. TL,DR; Positives • Received the goods (gearset and rebuild kit) • Fair priced and holding up 540whp (soon to push more) • Conversations are in professional and respectable manner • Comfortable to resolve issues and will follow through • Many other higher HP cars in Europe using his products with success Negatives • He has been outside Australia from February 2017 till now, leaves his co-worker in Melbourne to run the business • Co-worker does not seem to conduct any QC prior to sending the goods out, defects were present in the product (read below) • Replies from him take days to weeks to get back in resolving issues (but was quick on the point of sale) being outside the country • Lead time was very average This is more suitable for somebody who has rebuild gearboxes before and understand the components inside, otherwise, it is just jibberish for you. I’ve placed an order for their replacement ‘strengthen’ gear set to replace the current OSGiken gear set on R33 GTR S3 gearbox along with new bearings, synchro and seals. The keyword was GTR Series 3 gearbox. Order was placed on mid-February 2017 and payment was done ever so promptly. Item was sent mid-March and received end of March. The person behind Speedtek is Alex Kantarovski, as some of you would know; he is in the no-good list in SAU with his previous dealings. I am in no way presenting him as a scammer in this review, I’ve received my goods and he is willing to help to resolve the issues I’ve found. He has been out of the country since the beginning of this year and leaves his machinist to produce the product and his co-worker as logistics support. Upon assembly and checking clearances, I realised that the input shaft (4th gear) cone diameter did not match with the synchro supplied. The 4th gear synchro supplied by Alex fitted the OSGiken input shaft properly but not with the input shaft supplied (S3 4th gear synchro is bigger in diameter and uses shifting keys instead of clips). The input shaft he supplied is suitable for R33 GTST GTR or Z32 with the smaller diameter 4th gear cone. I popped him a message early April and he replied by insisting that he will send the correct synchro promptly. The 4th gear synchro for his kit is basically an off the shelf synchro but re-machined to allow for the shifting keys instead of the clips. A month was lost and I received the replacement synchro early May. The day I received the replacement synchro, I received a message from Alex saying that there is an issue with the synchro that I just received. I checked it over the sliding hub and sure enough it has issue with the teeth indexing that will pose shifting problem. He insist that it is a one off issue from the machinist which has been rectified, another replacement will be sent to me soon. 4 days later, the replacement of the replacement is sent to me and received mid-May. Opening the parcel, the synchro has a defect. The machinist made a mistake in the CNC program and created an undercut on the face of the synchro like it smashed tool. Indexing appears to be ok and that undercut shouldn’t affect its function as it is in a non-critical zone. Alex apologised and insisted to send me another one; apparently his co-worker sent me a prototype. I received the replacement mid-May (so right now 4 x 4th gear synchro in total). So assembly starts right away, it is my mistake in just quickly checking the clearance on this synchro and close up the gearbox. I didn’t bother checking how the latest synchro indexes on the hub. With gearbox being back in the car, all gears engage smoothly….except 4th. It crunches whether you shift into it from neutral/standing still/driving/slow shift/fast shift. Double clutching fixes the issue. Contacted Alex about the problem, he suggested to check the diameter of the pilot bronze bush on the crank. He made his input shaft snout to be 16mm diameter. I pulled the gearbox off to confirm and surprisingly the pilot bush was stuck on the input shaft as I pull the gearbox off indicating the interference fit. Why he made it 16mm diameter? I don’t know. The stock and OSGiken input shaft snout measures 15.8mm diameter in which the bush is 16mm diameter internally. I was not informed of this change. I’m not going to call this as my oversight because there was no design advantage to make that change, hence, I didn’t check it. This was the most plausible explanation at the time to why it crunches 4th. I was then suggested to drill the bush out to 16.2mm diameter which I did and slapped the gearbox back on the car. Then still…..no Bueno. It still crunches 4th and the only thing I could think of is the indexing issue of the custom synchro he made, the groove cut for the shifting key was perhaps too narrow so that the synchro does not slightly provide positive engagement with the hub and inevitably the synchronising action pushing it onto the input shaft cone. After messages exchanged and with no luck with this 4th gear syncro, I suggested for a replacement input shaft. The replacement shaft will be to fit the 1st synchro he sent me which has a cone diameter identical to the S3 GTR and OSGiken, co-incidentally it is the same as R34 neo input shaft in which his machinist already has a program on the CNC. This was because I know that the 1st synchro he sent me is a correct off the shelf component rather than guessing with another custom syncro. This is where I am right now, another month has gone by and his co-worker is in the process of sending me the replacement input shaft. Further update to follow… Overall I am not entirely sure if there is anything special with the S3 GTR gearbox. I’ve rebuilt a couple of FS5R30A from R33 GTST, SR20 box and Honda B series gearboxes without an issue with off the shelf parts and this would hopefully be an one off unlucky event. Alex will assist you with any related issue, his parts looks good (not sure what material and heat treatment these gearsets are). He could improve with communication and getting information from his co-worker. I’ve read worse experience in SAU with other companies such as PAR where they seem to just throw you under the bus after sale.
  17. Hi all, Some of you may know me as i have been kicking around these forums for the past 10 years I have made my way through a few RB nissans amongst several other cars. My first skyline, my 31 TI converted to manual and slammed, i LOVED this car! My second skyline was my first turbo car, 32 gts-t running around 220rwhp and many issues, I had a very love hate relationship with this car, it did however start my love for the 32. i moved onto the 34GTT from there and i did enjoy the 34, but always hated the silver and hated the auto. shame as it was such a nice car. The price i picked this up from prompted me but im glad i did. so on the hunt for manual parts and maby saving for a respray to white i came across the stag. RS4-S pearl white manual stag, so i moved over and again i loved this car.... maby should have kept this one... but oh well not an RB but i do like this one too, my 2014 SSV ute tweaked up and slammed, i do like the ute anyway onto the point. I have always loved the R32GTR being the best looking skyline, and always wanted to own one. as allot of them are pushing there 25th birthday i decided its time to own one before its just too hard. so i started my hunt which included every single one on the net and a few trips interstate to drive and view, often dissapointed. after flying here and here to drive a few i realised how old they are getting which is upsetting. without spending over 20 and pushing $30K a nice example is hard to find. i looked seriously into importing one but my future plan is to import an extream example of low km vspec 2 in white and keep it locked away. but for today i want something i can enjoy driving regulaly, do i opened my colour options up. luckily i did find this one, in sa so no roadworthy to deal with. confirmed original Ks and decent condition with a reasonable amount of history and mostly stock, it has its flaws but all in all a good base. so i drove this home my plans are to clean it up mainly. drive it and enjoy it, find whats wrong and slowly fix things. as its not a special model or build im not specifically sticking to total concourse original parts but i want to keep it mainly clean and correct. as always i will have MANY questions so this will also be my place to ask and pick brains so all help is always appreciated. more to come!
  18. 1989 Built R32 GTR NO RUSH TO AT ALL TO SELL. Add is https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/melbourne-cbd/cars-vans-utes/built-nissan-1989-r32-gtr/1142463664Expression of Interest. Im parting ways with my R32 GTR. Will sell for the right price only. This car has had no expense spared and is the 2nd GTR ive owned. Recently completed a full comprenhensive build, including built motor, resprayed engine bay etc Below are full specs.Car has been tuned at 353KW @ 21psi on a Run in tuneONLY! (straight e85 Fuel) Motor Built to handle 500-550KW Safely. I have all the build photos of the progress of the car if anoyone is interested.Motor Built by Myself @ RaceEquippedTuned By EMS E TunerMechanical, Dyno Prep, Trouble Shooting by MotorlabI have a file with approx $12,000 Of reciepts and more unaccounted for or invoices i lost!Close to $15,000 -$16,000 Spent in total.NO TEST PILOTSBODY : 62xxxKM have JOC papers & Original Cluster. Body sprayed a few year ago by previous owner, paint is 99% immaculate. Freshly Sprayed Bay during the build also.Very few if any scratches. Factory bonnet and panels. Sills have the standard jackstand dints. I am yet to see a GTR or any Nissan from that era that doesnt have this issue.INTERIOR- Very clean, no rips or tears in the seats or doortrims- No dash Bubble- E boost 2 Controller- Oil Pressure Gauge- Double Din Headunit with Aftermarket Speakers (unsure never checked)BLOCK (less then 1000kms)- Ross Forged 86.5MM Pistons & H Beam Rods (HPC coated piston skirts)- Grub Screwed Crank and full balanced rotating assembly- ACL Race bearings- All Machining ($3900 worth of Machining, Cleaning etc for Block and Head)- Reimax Billet oil pump Gear- Tomei Sump baffle & drilled returns- New water Pump- New Timing Belt Kit- Extended Sump- ARP 2000 Headstuds- Tomei Block Head Restrictor- Tomei Headgasket- New NPC Ceramic Button Clutch (Rated to 450KW, will hold more)HEAD (R34 Head) (Less then 1000kms)- Hks 272 Step 2 10.8mm lift Cam Shafts (head machined to suit higher lift)- Tomei Buckets- Tomei Valve Springs- Tomei Retainers- Tomei Metal Intake Gaskets- Head Drain- Supertech Intake Valves- New Valve guides- Adjustable Cam gears- 3 Angle valve job- Reshimmed HeadEXHAUST & COOLING- Top Mount Steam pipe TOG manifold (lifetime warranty)- 45 MM Turbosmart Hypergate- Custom Garrett GT35 (66MM billet compreesor wheel, .50 front, 1.06 rear housing)- Full 3.5" downpipe- RacePace 3.5' cat back- RacePace Aluminium Radiator- 100MM intercooler- Full custom stainless steel intercooler piping kit- 3" Turbo IntakeFUEL & ECU- 044 Intank- 2Lt Surge tank with twin 044 external Pumps + Inline Filters- 1400CC Delphi Injectors (1650CC at max duty cycle)- Tomei Fuel reg + Gauge- Power FC + Hand Controller (D Jetro MAFLESS Tune)SUSPENSION, WHEELS & BRAKES- HKS Coilovers- BMC Stopper- 17 x 9 P1 Buddy CLubs- Federal RS-RR Semi Slicks (less then 1000KM old)- All HEL Braided lines- EBC Red stuff- Slotted Discs
  19. Hi all Starting a good old build thread to help keep track of the things I will be doing. Kind of like a car diary So Before the GTR I had a MkV Golf GTI. Great little thing. But being fwd was not for me. I was making a respectable 160 fwkw. That car gave a lot of others a run for their money . She had some good stance So after growing weary of loosing traction for all of first and some of second. I decided to go shopping for a different car. I looked at R32's, for the life of me I could not find one in my price range that didnt look neglected. So then I was all over carsales trying to find out what my next car would be. What I wanted was to get out of the Euro scene. GTi's were/are everywhere. I did not like that at all. I couldnt find any other car that I wanted to be in and I wanted a GTR. Then I decided to start looking at R33's. Just for the record I looked at all of the ones that were in my price range in. They looked so sad. Rusty, dinged up, holes in the dash, high km's which translates to even higher km's by judging the interior. I remember looking at a series 3 GTR that had the worst Idle, and rust starting around the doors and in the engine bay. A supposed 60xxx km on the clock, dash was in a horrible state, and the seats were torn. Luckily I became a memeber on here prior to entering the market. It became clear that, that car definately was wound back. So after searching and searching I found a freshly imported '95 GTR, near stock, original paint job, no rust, no dents, imaculate interior, straight as an arrow. The guy who imported it was a stand alone importer, no workshop nothing. So I gave him a ring, he gave me his address. Off I went to go look at this car. Too many times have I gone to look at a car and be severely dissapointed. Seeing as this was the only one I havent scoped out I was crossing my fingers and hoping for the best. As I rock up, I see a BNR34 x2, Mazerati, and a car under a carcover. I was drooling or the r34 white with black wheels. Looked hawt. Then shook hands with the seller and he uncovered the car for me. I had a detailed walk around it. Could not flaw it, except someone being very careless with a buffer. But that was nothing I couldnt tackle. The car looked amazing. At the time it had 85xxx km on the clock with full service history. I was so happy. He fired it up, and she started without a hiccup. I jump in he goes for a little bit of a warm up drive and asks me if I would like a spin. It caught me off guard, every other dealer or seller either wanted a deposit to show that I would buy the car, or receive some of my persuasion techniques. But not this guy. We hit it off very well. I drove through a nice windy area. It drove true, it ran smooth, sounded great, idled on the dot. I knew this was the car for me. So after 2 weeks I met him at the local VIC roads and we made the payment and got the new plates for my new pride and joy. I was so nervous driving it home. It's the biggest car Ive ever owned. And very well can be the most powerful. . With some fresh oil and a quick wash, this was her a few months back. This is what she looked like when I got her. I knew she needed some love. And I was willing to give it to her. So after taking a crash course in GTR's from this forum. I started scoping things out. Checked my exhaust = MINES. Checked my ECU = MINES. Read up on the MINES ecu found out it is not really for us Ausies. So I got myself a BNR32 ecu and gave toshi a ring. Got him to give me a nice "safe" tune on 13 PSI. The result? Note it did hit 250 on one run. But I was happy. Toshi said the car must be in good condition because of how easy it was to set up the AFR's. Made me even more happy. With the stock gauge being as gay as aids, I got a defi imitation, shadow boost gauge. So happy. And the car is on 13 psi everytime. i love electronic gauges . Then I started takeling the other things that were annoying me. The facia had scratches. That rubber coating stuff wasnt made for durability was it? haha. So firstly I painted it black, then I CF wrapped it. I also did my valley cover a nice red. Then just on the weekend I finally tackled the paint properly. Clay bar and premium wax. Could not have been happier with how the paint job came out. Dont worry I didnt use the brush at the local car wash. Bucket and wool wash mit . Whats next? Get rid of the rear wiper. Its so ugly! haha Find out what turbo's I have. Seeing as Im hitting full boost at 4k, I dont think I have the stockies bolted on. Car is going in for a good service next weekend. Cant wait to find out what tubbies are pushing her. Fingers crossed for n1's. Yes I will be putting the boost up haha. Getting new wheels. Enkei RPF1's 18x9.5 +15. Dose that spec sound good? The overall idea of the car is, get some nice power out of her and enjoy for a while until I saved up the money to get a engine rebuild and then I know Ill be power hungry and we shall see what I would like to do. With my current image in mind, I would the GTR to be a majority street car with the occasional track day here and there. Not chasing power figures just want the car to drive the way I want it to. Will need to get all supporting mods before I take the power up too far. Stock clutch no good for launches haha. Dont know if I want a twin plate. Seeing as Ill be extracting more power out of her Im not left with many options. But I dont like the fact that a twin plate will wear away quite quickly in stop start traffic. Any recommendations? Thanks guys. And Ill make sure to keep updating. Also sorry if its too long winded. Cheers
  20. WTB R32 GTR DIFF MOUNTED ATTESA PUMP Hi All, Looking for a second hand attesa pump for a r32 gtr. diff mounted is a must! Thanks Kosta
  21. GTR34 Brembo's, Bosch 2000cc injectors, 5 stud rear hubs, handbrake pivot, spare wheel No holds and no shotguns, nothing is sold till it's paid for or a deposit is put down. I can ship anything anywhere if you pay for it. Pickup is available no probs. Location: Homebush/Sydney - GTR R34 Brembo painted red (yes it's R34 GTR gold under the red), front and rear set, freshly machined rotors, lots of pads, not separating not separating not separating not separating = $2000. S15 rear 5 stud hubs = $150 S15 spare wheel = $50 R33 rear handbrake shoe pivot = $20 4x Bosch 2200cc injectors = $200 - No holds and no shotguns, nothing is sold till it's paid for or a deposit is put down. I can ship anything anywhere if you pay for it. Pickup is available no probs. Location: Homebush/Sydney
  22. Garage clean out r32 GTR parts Hey there! Have some spares I want to get rid of: R32 standard computer $50 R32 standard BOV's $50 R32 standard twins - one good and one blown with no exhaust wheel. Have standard dumps as well $150 Set of 4 rims that came with the R32 measuring 17inch x 10inch with 255/40/17 Falken tyres which need replacing $600 R32 GTR cam angle sensor $50 RB26DETT Yellow jacket igniters $100 for set Brand new black leather gear stick boot and leather handbrake level boot $30 Greddy boost gauge and controller $50 Greddy air fuel gauge reader but no gauge $10 RB26DETT standard igniters $40 for set RB26DETT standard AFM x 2 $50 for pair Greddy gear knob $25 2JZ standard 440cc side feed injectors $250 RB26DETT standard igniter $50 R32 standard intercooler $100 Standard R32 GTR Radiator in top come only used for 6000 kms $120 Any questions shoot me a PM or give me a call 0four11 six59 zero6one (Simon). Happy to post at buyer expense so give me suburb and postcode and I will give a quote. Pickup is available from Canberra in Belconnen area. Thanks for looking! Simon
  23. R32 GTR gearbox into R32 GTS4 compatible? Hey guys, I had some issues with my r32 gts4 gearbox, so decided to get a r32 gtr box. Just after some advice in regards to compatibility. Some people say it's a bolt on job others say may need an adapter. If anyone could grace me with some knowledge it would be greatly appreciated.
  24. Will a Z32 CAS work on an R32 GT-R? Hey guys, I am having some issues which I have narrowed down to what (I believe) is the CAS but part availability is a bit of a bitch here in the states. An RB26 series 1 CAS is going to run between $500-$600 with shipping. There is a company here that sells rebuilds but they are out of stock with no anticipated date for getting inventory in. I was wondering if a Z32 CAS ($140) would work in its place? I have searched around on this and I have found some conflicting information and wanted to know if anyone here has tried this. I saw one person claim to use one on an RB swap into a 240. Some posts say the plug needs rewired, some allude to some internal adjustments to compensate for the trigger wheel being 120 degrees off. I am not oppsed to cracking open the CAS to modify it to work but I don't want to waste my time if it's a non-starter. The car was delivered to me back in February in partially running condition. It would miss sporadically at partial throttle and would die out the moment I let off the gas. Since then the car has stopped running altogether. The last time I took it around the block to test a repair it was extremely hard to get restarted and keep running. I limped it into the garage and it has been sitting there since. The car will turn over and occasionally sounds like it wants to start but never does. Sometimes I get a backfire. The only code the car was throwing was for "ignition", I think it was a 12 but it has been a few months. Work done so far: Opened both MAF's to check for loose solders (all connections were good), cleaned both MAF's Cleaned air filters (Mine's intake with K&N's) New NGK BCPR7EIX Iridium plugs (it had some ngk race plugs installed when it arrived) New battery New coil packs New coil pack wiring harness New fuel pump (aeromotive 340) New fuel filter New ignition module (the old one tested bad and I really hope this would solve the issue haha) Tried to start the car with starter fluid (sprayed in behind one of the mafs to avoid messing it up) Thanks in advance for any feedback, suggestions, or input, Brock
  25. NEW TE37 Reps 19 x 10.5 +12. Lifetime structural warranty Hey guys, Have a few sets left of some high quality TE37 reps. Made to suit Aus standards and we offer lifetime structural warranty for your piece of mind. Track Proven as well with no issues. Bronze 19x10.5 +12 Brand new tyres Price: $1,490.00 Location: Sydney Postage anywhere in Aus can be arranged.