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Found 1,126 results

  1. I'm clearing out the shed and have the following r32 gtr parts I'll be selling. IM GOING TO EASTERN CREEK 26th of MAY for gtr festival.can bring items with me. Gearbox Rear cradle complete diff/ brakes shafts etc Radiator Steering rack Steering column with ignition and key Engine loom and ECU Ac compressor brake master/ booster Clutch master/booster and lines Front hubs R33 turbos less turbine housing x2 N1 turbine housing x2 Flywheel M's pod filters/ adapters Flywheel Stock intercooler Gearbox crossmember Turbo manifolds and oil / water lines and associated plumbing Abs pump Steering wheel needs recovering Intercooler piping Front subframe Open to realistic offers as no need for it. 
  2. I have been using Platinum Pro Plug-in for my R34 GTR for awhile now, I see many people switching to Hall Effect Sensors for the RB26. Anyone have postive experience here? I’m planning out my RB28 build now and would like to know what is the involvment in switching stock sensors to these aftermarket trigger kits? I’m thinking to use this kit that places a Hall effect sensor at the exhaust cam and crank as well. Specifically this kit https://rossperformanceparts.com/product/nissan-rb-crank-cam-trigger-kit-twin-cam/
  3. Unique opportunity, bootlid from R32 GTR or similar, unused and newly painted in Spark Silver (code KL0), without spoiler or holes. Still in bubble wrap after paint Suit the fitting of a non standard wing or use as is. $500, located in Melbourne
  4. As title states, I have a full set of four Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R in 265/35/18 for sale. Only taken off today because they are impossible to fit my car. Still pretty much brand new, no punctures or leaks. Build date is 3016. Stored directly out of sunlight. Chasing $1100. Retail price is about $1600 so you can save yourself $500 or more. Located in Bonnyrigg 0415 447 759 Thanks The tyres will suit cars and rims such as skylines, r32, r33, r34, gtr, silvia, s13, s14, s15, supra, chaser, jzx100, mark 2, mark II, jzx110, is250, jzx90, evo 7, evo 8, evo 9, evo 10, ce28, te37, re30, meister, sp3, sp1, ssr, volk, racing, ze30, gram, light, bbs, lm, rpf1, rs05rr, vsxx, xd9, t7r, ame, tracers, d9r, work, emotion, cr kai, kiwami, te37v,
  5. Hi fellas My cars been off the road for about 4/5weeks as I broke my gearbox selector so gearbox was getting refreshed while I was waiting for it to come back I looked into removing and replacing the nitrogen canister, while I was unscrewing it I noticed it unscrewed in half ! I never knew they were a 2 piece item, anyways the other bit that screws into the attesa pump assembly was super tight so I put it back together now that the box is back in I went to bleed the attesa system with fresh Nissan matic d, and I can’t get the pump to prime ! ive disconnected the white plug in drivers kick panel, cracked the bleed nipple on both the pump and near transfer case and it basically just dribbles out without the pump working no error codes on attesa ecu I started the car and jumped under and cracked the nipple still no luck fuses are good i by passed the attesa relay in the boot and the pump worked fine for 10 seconds but then started making a different high pitched squeel while the pump was going I jumped under and still nothing from bleed nipples can anyone shed some light on what I can do next did me separating the nitrogen canister cause this issue as it was working fine before it came off the road ? i got a known working attesa ecu and relay from a mates Gtr I will try tomorow and report back any help would be much appreciated !!
  6. 1995 Nissan Skyline GTR V-Spec112000kmsOriginal conditionNo engine modifications NSW Reg Oct 2018 Aftermarket alarm & cruise control $35000
  7. I just found out the reason that previous owner modified the A/C high pressure hose from the A/C pump is because the steering pump higher pressure hose interferes with my Greddy aftermarket radiator. The A/C high pressure hose has been leaking forever due to poor welding, now I just want to replace with a new OEM piece. How do you guys deal with the interference between steering pump hose and radiator? Note: I already have twin SPAL electric fans, I think I can play around the position and get away.
  8. Hey guys, I have a bunch of bits and pieces for sale to suit R32 gtr's that are no longer needed. Located in Adelaide, but more than happy to post ifeel free to pm me or message my mobile on 0412 618 558 f you have any questions. Open to reasonable offers as well guys. APEXi Power FC D-Jetro to suit R32/R33 GTR $1250 - Brand new , just not needed now that I've decided to go in a different direction. Includes complete D-jetro wiring kit (harness, sensors, and nipples). HKS AFM Replacement pipes $250 - Brand new, was to be used with the d-jetro ecu above. Will do the above two for $1400 if sold together GReddy twin 60mm A pillar guage holder $100 - To suit R32s Genuine R32 GTR N1 boot lip $300 - Primed and ready to paint, the original threads to bolt it down are still there as well. Nismo G-MAX Spec 1 twin plate clutch $250 - Pull type, to suit late model R32 & R33 GTRs. Still 3.3mm of meat left on the plates (limit is 2.7mm according to nismo) so still a bit of meat but may be better suited to just rebuild it anyway. Any Questions don't hesitate to message me
  9. Nism00

    Hi fellows I am from Melbourne drives 370z
  10. For sale hks spark amplifier Hks dli model tw14588 Bought brand new for 450 used for 9000kms Includes install instructions in English and diagrams Works great made big difference on my vg30dett Can be installed on rb20 rb25 rb26 Selling for $300 these are discontinued now
  11. For sale good condition R34 GTR Intercooler removed due to upgrade from late model vspec located in western suburbs kon 0419 022 813 $250
  12. Speedtek Gearset Review This is a review based on my experience and may not correlate to your experience when dealing business with Speedtek Auto Racing Parts. TL,DR; Positives • Received the goods (gearset and rebuild kit) • Fair priced and holding up 540whp (soon to push more) • Conversations are in professional and respectable manner • Comfortable to resolve issues and will follow through • Many other higher HP cars in Europe using his products with success Negatives • He has been outside Australia from February 2017 till now, leaves his co-worker in Melbourne to run the business • Co-worker does not seem to conduct any QC prior to sending the goods out, defects were present in the product (read below) • Replies from him take days to weeks to get back in resolving issues (but was quick on the point of sale) being outside the country • Lead time was very average This is more suitable for somebody who has rebuild gearboxes before and understand the components inside, otherwise, it is just jibberish for you. I’ve placed an order for their replacement ‘strengthen’ gear set to replace the current OSGiken gear set on R33 GTR S3 gearbox along with new bearings, synchro and seals. The keyword was GTR Series 3 gearbox. Order was placed on mid-February 2017 and payment was done ever so promptly. Item was sent mid-March and received end of March. The person behind Speedtek is Alex Kantarovski, as some of you would know; he is in the no-good list in SAU with his previous dealings. I am in no way presenting him as a scammer in this review, I’ve received my goods and he is willing to help to resolve the issues I’ve found. He has been out of the country since the beginning of this year and leaves his machinist to produce the product and his co-worker as logistics support. Upon assembly and checking clearances, I realised that the input shaft (4th gear) cone diameter did not match with the synchro supplied. The 4th gear synchro supplied by Alex fitted the OSGiken input shaft properly but not with the input shaft supplied (S3 4th gear synchro is bigger in diameter and uses shifting keys instead of clips). The input shaft he supplied is suitable for R33 GTST GTR or Z32 with the smaller diameter 4th gear cone. I popped him a message early April and he replied by insisting that he will send the correct synchro promptly. The 4th gear synchro for his kit is basically an off the shelf synchro but re-machined to allow for the shifting keys instead of the clips. A month was lost and I received the replacement synchro early May. The day I received the replacement synchro, I received a message from Alex saying that there is an issue with the synchro that I just received. I checked it over the sliding hub and sure enough it has issue with the teeth indexing that will pose shifting problem. He insist that it is a one off issue from the machinist which has been rectified, another replacement will be sent to me soon. 4 days later, the replacement of the replacement is sent to me and received mid-May. Opening the parcel, the synchro has a defect. The machinist made a mistake in the CNC program and created an undercut on the face of the synchro like it smashed tool. Indexing appears to be ok and that undercut shouldn’t affect its function as it is in a non-critical zone. Alex apologised and insisted to send me another one; apparently his co-worker sent me a prototype. I received the replacement mid-May (so right now 4 x 4th gear synchro in total). So assembly starts right away, it is my mistake in just quickly checking the clearance on this synchro and close up the gearbox. I didn’t bother checking how the latest synchro indexes on the hub. With gearbox being back in the car, all gears engage smoothly….except 4th. It crunches whether you shift into it from neutral/standing still/driving/slow shift/fast shift. Double clutching fixes the issue. Contacted Alex about the problem, he suggested to check the diameter of the pilot bronze bush on the crank. He made his input shaft snout to be 16mm diameter. I pulled the gearbox off to confirm and surprisingly the pilot bush was stuck on the input shaft as I pull the gearbox off indicating the interference fit. Why he made it 16mm diameter? I don’t know. The stock and OSGiken input shaft snout measures 15.8mm diameter in which the bush is 16mm diameter internally. I was not informed of this change. I’m not going to call this as my oversight because there was no design advantage to make that change, hence, I didn’t check it. This was the most plausible explanation at the time to why it crunches 4th. I was then suggested to drill the bush out to 16.2mm diameter which I did and slapped the gearbox back on the car. Then still…..no Bueno. It still crunches 4th and the only thing I could think of is the indexing issue of the custom synchro he made, the groove cut for the shifting key was perhaps too narrow so that the synchro does not slightly provide positive engagement with the hub and inevitably the synchronising action pushing it onto the input shaft cone. After messages exchanged and with no luck with this 4th gear syncro, I suggested for a replacement input shaft. The replacement shaft will be to fit the 1st synchro he sent me which has a cone diameter identical to the S3 GTR and OSGiken, co-incidentally it is the same as R34 neo input shaft in which his machinist already has a program on the CNC. This was because I know that the 1st synchro he sent me is a correct off the shelf component rather than guessing with another custom syncro. This is where I am right now, another month has gone by and his co-worker is in the process of sending me the replacement input shaft. Further update to follow… Overall I am not entirely sure if there is anything special with the S3 GTR gearbox. I’ve rebuilt a couple of FS5R30A from R33 GTST, SR20 box and Honda B series gearboxes without an issue with off the shelf parts and this would hopefully be an one off unlucky event. Alex will assist you with any related issue, his parts looks good (not sure what material and heat treatment these gearsets are). He could improve with communication and getting information from his co-worker. I’ve read worse experience in SAU with other companies such as PAR where they seem to just throw you under the bus after sale.
  13. Good day guys....so i have a nissan laurel with a rb25det swap.Engine is Bone stock except for an Front Mounted intercooler I wanted to know the vacuum line which runs off the wastegate,Where does it need to be hooked?(I do not have a boost solenoid).As of right now it is installed onto my intake manifold.However i am baffled as to whether it should be on the intercooler piping or the INtake manifold.
  14. Gtr digital G-sensors I'm looking at upgrading my g sensor for a new digital g sensor has anyone used the midori/do-luck/Tarzan digital g sensors ? what do you think of them ? Worth while upgrade ? Are they Realy much of an improvement over the stock analoge sensors ? feedback would be much appreciated before I make a purchase ps. What's the difference between the normal street version and race model ?
  15. Selling as whole, x1 Platinum plug and play ecu for R34 GTR $2295rrp x1 Can wideband o2 sensor controller $199rrp x1 I/O expander box $450rrp wiring for all ^ paid over 3k for all Willing to post at buyers expense Open to offers
  16. Hi everyone. I know there's a thread for speedo cable problems for the 32. But I removed the cluster to take a globe out. Then replaced the cluster and speedo was inop. Cable has been previously replaced under 500km ago. I've also put the globe back in and tested and it's still not working. I pulled the cluster out and drove the car a little and the cable still spins inside its sleeve. Many ideas? Cheers
  17. Hi guys, Apologies, I know this might seem like a stupid question to some of you. I've just bought an R32 GTR. Link ecu, single turbo etc. The crankcase breather setup is- all stock except breathing into a vented catch can instead of feeding back in before the turbo. Now based on previous experience this makes for a huge vacuum leak! Tonight I tried blocking off the pcv and simply breathing both valve covers into the catch can. The car idled at 900rpm (usually 1100rpm) and sounded slightly less 'lumpy'. The car is currently on stands so can't drive it unfortunetly. My question is...is it possible the car was set up and tuned with the stock but vented set up (vac leak). Or is that likely an uneducated modification by a previous owner. Obviously no mafs with the link ecu. But I cant see how the ecu can measure the air coming in through the pcv valve when off boost. Thanks heaps, Luke
  18. Selling a bunch of r33 gtr parts that come off the car due to upgrades or spares that are no longer needed. Prices do NOT include postage, that can be arranged at your expense if required. Local pickup is Townsville, North Queensland. I can get photos if the ones provided are not sufficient enough. This will be updated as I gather the remaining photos/parts to advertise. Will do my best to get back to you as soon as possible with a response. 1. FC-Datalogit for Power FC ECU - $300 firm; These are AUD $400+ brand new, has been used twice when I had a power fc to tune and log some issues. Comes with everything from when purchased new. 2. Power FC L Jetro + Handcontroller + Boost solenoid - $600 firm; Has a mild tune on it currently, was recently removed to upgrade to a Link G4. Not sure on it's flexibility if to be used with other cars (other than r33 gtr), model number in the photo below.
  19. Well my build has begun...GTR life Bought a brand new coolant bottle, bonnet cowl and rubber, new clips for the front grill. Also got a new GTR badge for the boot, original GTR key and a nice little Nismo key ring Will start fitting things this weekend, also going to wire in my sub and amp and tune the stereo. I've also changed the steering wheel to my mono 'race' wheel. When I got time I'll post my list of things I have decided to do. Love this car, love driving it, love playing with it,
  20. My 1975 C110 Skyline Restoration A quick introduction to this build, I had an old build thread from 2012 but the image links were all broken so I've started fresh in an effort to condense years of procrastination, so here goes... A bit of a back story, in my foolishness (and excitement) I purchased a white coupe back in 2008 sight unseen on eBay. While the car looked OK the listing wasn't completely truthful and the car was really rough and full of rust. It had been patched up very poorly and a lot of the rust was hidden. As I dismantled the car, the more parts I removed and the more filler I stripped, the bigger the problems were. Sure it was repairable but it was not the base I was looking for and it was too incomplete. The floor pan, around the windows and the sills etc were all rusted out and there were better bases available back then. Whilst I owned this car I managed to get onto another 240K though a work mate. His friend’s father was into Datsun in a big way and had many Z's and what he thought was a 240K. It turned out he was correct and the owner also had a shed full of panels and parts. I picked up this car and all the spare parts in December 2008. It was a tidy looking car, It was filled in the usual places and had a back yard spray job so it was a bit of an unknown quantity but along with all the spares it made for a good deal. It was also running and registered. Between 2008 and 2012 I bought a house and part of a business so I became pretty weighed down, at one point I had both cars for sale. I was lucky enough to get rid of the white car and a lot of parts for a reasonable price and decided to keep the blue car, this was a good decision.
  21. A pair of brand new OEM diff bearings 38440-03VO1 to suit RB front diff. I believe, but you should check for yourself, that these will fit GTR, GTS-4 or AWD Stagea. Price for both AU$110 including postage to anywhere in NZ or Australia (may be extra to the US) Please PM if interested!
  22. Hi all, Im getting a stillway 0-400 lockout shifter copied for a skyline as the company that makes them no longer exists. As u all know it is a must have for a skyline dog box. I looking at making several as the cost will be lower in this case and wanted to know what are the interest levels out there. I will utilse a short shifter initially for quicker shifts as stillway only used standard throw shifter. I will also be making the lockout section on the plate out of hardend steel same as whats on the shifter to eliminate wear. Stillway only has hardend steel on the shifter part. This caused the lockout section on the plate to wear out over time. I am not sure of the price just yet but will forward once i know. So who is interested?
  23. ShortCircuit

    Hi All We're planning on heading down for a cruise to King Lake in April. This is a GT-R only event. If you're interested in coming down for the day please feel free to join the group in the facebook link below. All details are in the event. Cheers
  24. jaysevu

    Looking for a R34 GTR Prefer VSPEC Bayside blue or white, history preferred, no major repairs , no rust or bent rails/sills Located in Vic but can travel for the right car. Budget of up to $100k PM, text or call on 0401910780
  25. R.3.2.G.T.R

    after bit more info and feedback re: quaife rear diff on the gtr, anyone running one of these yet? not sure if its directly swap jobbie, unlike nismo items that require half shafts etc who here is running one? already had great things about the front but for the rears not sure if its better than nismo 1.5 option