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Found 1,757 results

  1. Alrighty guys, So i've had a number of skylines over the last 5 years, since getting my first one in 2014. A number of R33 drift cars, a R32 drift car in japan @ ebisu circuit (for sale atm if anyone is keen :D), my original green 32 which I've built up over the last 5 years to a 500hp rb25 neo street weapon (this is also for sale...) With the rising prices of GTR's these last few years..I thought I would never be able to afford a proper GTR without selling everything I own haha. I recently came across someone with a bare non rolling R32 GTR shell which luckily had not been posted for sale online. Luckily over the years, I have amassed quite a number of GTR body parts. The plan is to pretty well fully rebuild the car with as much new items as possible (while not going crazy over the top). This will take me a long time, but I hope to keep these page updated (unlike my first build post haha).
  2. I thought I had a boost leak with the sound I could hear for along time but couldn't find it. Lately I have noticed my - 5s have had some smoke when coming to a stop. I don't think it's my valve stem seals as this was all done in my built motor. Turbos have done about 40,000kms at 500hp and now pushing 600 since tune 2 months ago. Do you think I'm on the right track?
  3. Hi SAU, Came across this website https://www.lmctplus.com/, GTRs supposedly being sold below market value (whatever that is) at $1 reserve auctions. Anyone have any experience with these guys? They gave away a Mines 34R from Vspec Performance here in Melbourne, to some kid in Sydney. They have a 410kw R33 GTR up for auction now https://www.lmctplus.com/1-auctions/ looks to have VIC rego. How would you go about viewing the car? No one in their right mind would just bid on a GTR without seeing it first right? Is it all too good to be true? There must be a catch? I have seen some of their cars for sale on Carsales, not sure if they're still there though. I am tempted to pay the $20 for the one month membership just to see where the prices reach, has there been any feedback coverage of past auction winners? Can't seem to find any result for LMCTPlus here on SAU. If it's legit then surely this would be an awesome way of getting an R!
  4. Ultra rare. Stock R34 GTR VSpec CD player in perfect working condition. $900 Payment via PayPal Worldwide shipping
  5. Hello my name is Ben and I'm new to this website and forum but I am in search of help finding the problem with my 1991 R32 GTR. Back in October the head blew out a coolant path and had to be removed and welded and fixed so cylinder 6 would not have coolant draining into the cylinder. It worked and was put back on the car with new metal gaskets from a tomei gasket set and a slew of other new parts like a Kevlar greddy timing belt, new water pump, new exhaust guides in the head, all new rubber hoses all over the engine bay(because the others were 28 years old), new mishimoto radiator, new tensioner, tensioner spring, and along with other small things all over the engine bay. During the process of having the head off he cleaned all the throttle bodies which he then found out from someone that builds rb's that he shouldn't have done that(not sure why). When it was all said and done and put back together my mechanic didn't want to give the car back until he looked into a sound coming from the engine bay at idle. It sounds like a whining or whiring sound if you will. It cant be heard when moving but at a stop and idle it can be heard quite loudly in the car and standing outside of it. My mechanic thinks it might have something to do with the throttle bodies being cleaned but is not sure. The car runs and drives great(better then before it broke). He is not positive what the sound is and asked all his other mechanic friends in the area and had them listen to it and they weren't sure or 100% on what it could be either. Just hoping someone could help me out. My initial thoughts are the Kevlar belt making the sound because it is tighter and doesn't have as much give but I'm not sure. Attached is a video of the noise. Clip isnt very long but it gets louder if you rev it up to about 2k and then it quites down a bit. If you have any ideas please help me out. IMG-6232.MOV
  6. Steve's R33 LM Limited Upkeep Hi all, I've been stalking these pages for a quite a long time now. Thought i should throw my car up for everyone to look at. Some of you will be familiar with this car already as I purchased it from Gav in Perth. Gav had this car built by Glavsport and it has been a no expense spared build. With that in mind I too have decided to buy things once and any changes that go onto the car will be the highest quality I can reasonably manage. You may be aware that my start with this car was somewhat turbulent as someone tried to steal it from me on the first day I drove it. (See link: Steve's Intro ). Since then I have hidden the car away under lock and key (and other security measures). The car has just returned to me now from Racepace in Bayswater. We (well, not really we, more the guys at Racepace) made some changes to my car, repaired the damage from the break in and installed a new immobiliser and tracker. It's nice to have the car back in one piece and using a key to start it, rather than any flat item jammed into what was left of the ignition. One of the biggest issues I was having was fumes coming into the cabin from under the bonnet/car. It turned out to be a twofold issue. 1. The exhaust was pinched and suffering from E85 damage (it was a 3" mild steel exhaust) 2. The oil catch can breather may have been letting fumes into the air vents for inside the car. The guys at Racepace have fabricated and installed a brand new 3.5" exhaust with V-Bands and tuned length headers to solve the exhaust problems and they also rerouted the catch can fumes into the rear turbo so they are expelled through the exhaust. With the new exhaust it was necessary to re-tune the car on the dyno so this was also completed. As someone who doesn't get to drive fast cars much, millions of kWs were deemed unnecessary. I asked the guys specifically if they could turn the engine down to a level it will be happy to perform at for a long, long time. In tuning the car the guys turned the engine up to what they deemed a reasonable level, then turned it back down as I requested. The net result of the tuning was: Full power: 505.4kW (atw) at 27psi Final Tune: 410kW (atw) at 22psi I've also got some pictures of the exhaust going in and a dyno run video coming soon.
  7. Gtr digital G-sensors I'm looking at upgrading my g sensor for a new digital g sensor has anyone used the midori/do-luck/Tarzan digital g sensors ? what do you think of them ? Worth while upgrade ? Are they Realy much of an improvement over the stock analoge sensors ? feedback would be much appreciated before I make a purchase ps. What's the difference between the normal street version and race model ?
  8. want to buy a r34 gtr shell or if someone can find me one i will pay them for middle man service
  9. Hi, i have an issue. When i turn on the lights before starting the car, all dashlights are working properly. As soon as I start it up and drive the lights behind the speedometer begin to flicker and turn off completely. Sometimes they come back on randomly. I also searched for a dimmer but aparently I can't find one in there. Have anyone had such an issue before or can anyone help? I would like to prevent stripping out the interior :D Thanks in advance :)
  10. Hi All, I'm looking for an R34 GTR V Spec Lower Engine Cover/Stone Tray. PM me if you have one to sell please
  11. Hey guys I've checked a bunch of forums and haven't found a problem similar to mine. I am driving a 94 gtr r32 and am having some hicas issues. My particular issue is when I connect my consult cable and hook it up to my computer (it doesnt matter what software I use) my hicas light comes on and my power steering gets heavy. I noticed the actual change for the power steering occurs when the solenoid drops from 1.05 when I normally drive to 0.25 using nissan datascan to monitor. When this occurs I believe it stops the possibility of 4 wheel steering occurring as the hicas solenoid stayed on 0. I have run hicas diagnostics without using consult and I get error 5, faulty speed sensor. I am currently in the middle of sorting that out. When I check the self diagnostics through datascan, I get no codes which makes me question datascan a little. My fluid levels are optimal in the front and back. I get no error codes in the ecu either. My g force sensor isnt broken. I believe my car uses the super hicas in the late model r32's Anyone have any tips? I would like to keep hicas. Cheers!
  12. so i got a AEM boost and oil temp gauge, can i use the old stock gauge wiring to wire in my new gauges
  13. Well my build has begun...GTR life Bought a brand new coolant bottle, bonnet cowl and rubber, new clips for the front grill. Also got a new GTR badge for the boot, original GTR key and a nice little Nismo key ring Will start fitting things this weekend, also going to wire in my sub and amp and tune the stereo. I've also changed the steering wheel to my mono 'race' wheel. When I got time I'll post my list of things I have decided to do. Love this car, love driving it, love playing with it,
  14. Speedtek Gearset Review This is a review based on my experience and may not correlate to your experience when dealing business with Speedtek Auto Racing Parts. TL,DR; Positives • Received the goods (gearset and rebuild kit) • Fair priced and holding up 540whp (soon to push more) • Conversations are in professional and respectable manner • Comfortable to resolve issues and will follow through • Many other higher HP cars in Europe using his products with success Negatives • He has been outside Australia from February 2017 till now, leaves his co-worker in Melbourne to run the business • Co-worker does not seem to conduct any QC prior to sending the goods out, defects were present in the product (read below) • Replies from him take days to weeks to get back in resolving issues (but was quick on the point of sale) being outside the country • Lead time was very average This is more suitable for somebody who has rebuild gearboxes before and understand the components inside, otherwise, it is just jibberish for you. I’ve placed an order for their replacement ‘strengthen’ gear set to replace the current OSGiken gear set on R33 GTR S3 gearbox along with new bearings, synchro and seals. The keyword was GTR Series 3 gearbox. Order was placed on mid-February 2017 and payment was done ever so promptly. Item was sent mid-March and received end of March. The person behind Speedtek is Alex Kantarovski, as some of you would know; he is in the no-good list in SAU with his previous dealings. I am in no way presenting him as a scammer in this review, I’ve received my goods and he is willing to help to resolve the issues I’ve found. He has been out of the country since the beginning of this year and leaves his machinist to produce the product and his co-worker as logistics support. Upon assembly and checking clearances, I realised that the input shaft (4th gear) cone diameter did not match with the synchro supplied. The 4th gear synchro supplied by Alex fitted the OSGiken input shaft properly but not with the input shaft supplied (S3 4th gear synchro is bigger in diameter and uses shifting keys instead of clips). The input shaft he supplied is suitable for R33 GTST GTR or Z32 with the smaller diameter 4th gear cone. I popped him a message early April and he replied by insisting that he will send the correct synchro promptly. The 4th gear synchro for his kit is basically an off the shelf synchro but re-machined to allow for the shifting keys instead of the clips. A month was lost and I received the replacement synchro early May. The day I received the replacement synchro, I received a message from Alex saying that there is an issue with the synchro that I just received. I checked it over the sliding hub and sure enough it has issue with the teeth indexing that will pose shifting problem. He insist that it is a one off issue from the machinist which has been rectified, another replacement will be sent to me soon. 4 days later, the replacement of the replacement is sent to me and received mid-May. Opening the parcel, the synchro has a defect. The machinist made a mistake in the CNC program and created an undercut on the face of the synchro like it smashed tool. Indexing appears to be ok and that undercut shouldn’t affect its function as it is in a non-critical zone. Alex apologised and insisted to send me another one; apparently his co-worker sent me a prototype. I received the replacement mid-May (so right now 4 x 4th gear synchro in total). So assembly starts right away, it is my mistake in just quickly checking the clearance on this synchro and close up the gearbox. I didn’t bother checking how the latest synchro indexes on the hub. With gearbox being back in the car, all gears engage smoothly….except 4th. It crunches whether you shift into it from neutral/standing still/driving/slow shift/fast shift. Double clutching fixes the issue. Contacted Alex about the problem, he suggested to check the diameter of the pilot bronze bush on the crank. He made his input shaft snout to be 16mm diameter. I pulled the gearbox off to confirm and surprisingly the pilot bush was stuck on the input shaft as I pull the gearbox off indicating the interference fit. Why he made it 16mm diameter? I don’t know. The stock and OSGiken input shaft snout measures 15.8mm diameter in which the bush is 16mm diameter internally. I was not informed of this change. I’m not going to call this as my oversight because there was no design advantage to make that change, hence, I didn’t check it. This was the most plausible explanation at the time to why it crunches 4th. I was then suggested to drill the bush out to 16.2mm diameter which I did and slapped the gearbox back on the car. Then still…..no Bueno. It still crunches 4th and the only thing I could think of is the indexing issue of the custom synchro he made, the groove cut for the shifting key was perhaps too narrow so that the synchro does not slightly provide positive engagement with the hub and inevitably the synchronising action pushing it onto the input shaft cone. After messages exchanged and with no luck with this 4th gear syncro, I suggested for a replacement input shaft. The replacement shaft will be to fit the 1st synchro he sent me which has a cone diameter identical to the S3 GTR and OSGiken, co-incidentally it is the same as R34 neo input shaft in which his machinist already has a program on the CNC. This was because I know that the 1st synchro he sent me is a correct off the shelf component rather than guessing with another custom syncro. This is where I am right now, another month has gone by and his co-worker is in the process of sending me the replacement input shaft. Further update to follow… Overall I am not entirely sure if there is anything special with the S3 GTR gearbox. I’ve rebuilt a couple of FS5R30A from R33 GTST, SR20 box and Honda B series gearboxes without an issue with off the shelf parts and this would hopefully be an one off unlucky event. Alex will assist you with any related issue, his parts looks good (not sure what material and heat treatment these gearsets are). He could improve with communication and getting information from his co-worker. I’ve read worse experience in SAU with other companies such as PAR where they seem to just throw you under the bus after sale.
  15. Hi up for sale Is my set of 4x 18x9.5+12 (5x114.3) Nismo LMGT4s Gt500 edition. Gloss black with no gutter rash - perfect condition. One wheel was buckled at a track day but is repairable. Selling as I no longer have my GTR and they have been sitting boxed in the garage. located in Sydney, 0404097043 PRICE $2,300 ONO
  16. Would love to see everyone's GTR's So i'll start it off. hrere's mine "99 BNR34 in Bayside Blue
  17. Well sorted track car in excellent condition, add fuel and go. Car is a standard 99 model. Imported by Tim Hendy in 2007 and used as a tarmac rally car. Purchased by Sam Markov approx 2014, rebuild as a track car and used at Challenge Bathurst 2016. Purchased from Sam early 2016 and used for local events, Victorian sprint series 2017, and Challenge Bathurst Nov 2017. Fresh 2.8L built by Matt Simms Performance - done dyno time only. Spool Billet Crank Spool Pro Drag I beam rods Custom SPS pistons 10:1 compression. Nitto oil pump Bearings calico coated etc N1 block N1 water pump Tomei type B valve springs SM Motorsport custom grind cams 1000cc injectors Royal Purple engine oil Suspension & Brakes. HKS coilovers Cusco sway bars Adjustable suspension arms all round SM Motorsport front hub bearing upgrades 380mm 8-pot front and 345mm rear 4-pot Ceika brakes Other bits and pieces. Z-Tune Front guards Topstage Carbon Fibre Front Lip SM Motorsport custom full splitter APR Performance carbon Rear Wing Original front under tray and rear spoiler also with the car 6-Point Cams approved cage. Receipt as per image. Sparco Pro 2000 seat (or Sparco Pro-Adv GRP Tech at additional charge) 6-point harness Motec M84 ECU Motec ADL dash In dash 4wd controller Tilton 7.25'' twin plate clutch Healthy 6-speed Getrag CroMo flywheel Upgraded radiator 100mm intercooler Setrab 40 row oil cooler Power Steering cooler SM Motorsport custom built pedal box Hand control bias adjuster Momo Leather quick release steering wheel 4.1 diffs KAKIMOTO Racing exhaust Project MU wheel nuts Wheels & Tyres 4 x RAYS Gram Light 18x10 3-sets used Michelin 265x45x18 Porsche Cup slicks 1-set used Kuhmo 265x45x18 soft semi’s Also 4 x RAYS TE37SL 18x10 available - $3000 for the set, they do not come with the car. I have called Dept of Infrastructure and they have advised that the car can be registered as was imported under the RAWS scheme and complianced but plate never fitted. You will need to contact a RAWS of your choice to have the process finished if you want to register it. If interested please CALL ME O457 677 243 Located in Albury, NSW. $92,000
  18. Up for sale, Used but recently rebuilt BNR34 clutch with push pull converter. model - Os Giken Ts2cd Held 350kw (-5’s) no issue had it for years then bought a rebuild kit from RHD Japan that included new cover plate intermediary plates and friction disks, bolts along with throwout bearing etc. scott at western clutch service did the rebuild and the car has hardly been driven since. I have all the paperwork and parts that were changed on the rebuild. All the plates are straight and heaps of meat on the friction disks. The clutch is good to go straight in and drive. I have every piece of the push pull converter including the softer spring that goes inside the slave cylinder. I also have a spare throw out bearing that i never used as i just bought a new sleeve and bearing assembly from os giken. ono-1k contact - 0450 428 895 pick up preferred but can be freighted for a cost. location - silverwater Nsw
  19. 64308 km on the clock only. This R35 is in great condition. It is good value at $74999 with many worthwhile modifications. Registration expires in Nov 2020. This car is spotless and has been very well looked after. I enjoy taking good care of my cars. It was always garaged and only driven once per week. It has been meticulously serviced with only the best lubricants used. The radiator has been upgraded with a PWR race grade radiator. The engine oil cooler is an upgraded higher density Setrab cooler. A HKS transmission cooler has been fitted. The transmission has been upgraded with Dodson V3 pressure sensors, Jacks clutch packs, the Willall main shaft repair kit has been fitted, the forward drive has been upgraded and all the transmission components that are known to be failure prone, have been replaced. The car has a Cobb ECU and a Willall Titanium exhaust. Power is approximately 440kw. The transmission is very smooth and the car drives beautifully. The Cobb includes the NIS006 software to tune the transmission to suit personal preference. I have owned it for almost 10 years and have really enjoyed it. The brakes are AP racing J-hook rotors and Endless ME20 pads still in very good condition. The battery is only a year old and is an Optima D51. There is a fire extinguisher installed at the front passenger foot well. I am simply selling as I think it is time. I have had great times on the track with this car. It performs flawlessly. I only tracked socially and probably 3 times per year. Anyone who buys this GTR gets a car that has been refined with good upgrades and fine tuned. It is a pleasure to drive. The rear tyres are still good. The front tyres were replaced less than a month ago.I also have a set of Enkei GTC 01 18 x10 inch track rims with Nitto NT01 tyres which can be bought separately. The bonnet and guards are wrapped in clear 3M vinyl. There are no scratches or paint defects on this car and it was never parked in the sun. The interior is in great condition. Windows are tinted. If a $1000 deposit is paid, I can take prospective serious buyers for a test drive but will not allow anyone to drive the car. I have all the upgrade and service dockets available. I have 3 intelligent keys for the car. I also have a Quickjack BL5000SLX which I would like to sell.
  20. cairns qld V-Spec 2 bonnet asking $5500 obo Currently painted yellow, surface is immaculate. some ageing around the vent. See photos. Located Cairns. Can ship.
  21. Hi guys.I want you,as being a long time members of this community and experienced owners of that Skyline stuff, to tell me what you recommend for aftermarket single plate clutch which is soft/light/smooth/comfortable for private/street use for R34 RB26DETT which is currently available to buy.Thanks in advance for replies.
  22. Hi guys.I want to ask, can stock MFD cooperate with change to single turbo T04Z with aftermarket ECU ( in my case: european Ecumaster Emu classic :https://www.ecumaster.com/products/emu-classic/). I don't want to use additional gauges.I want to stick with electronic screen display.Or is it possible to make a cooperation between aftmrkt ECU and mfd.? Some say,Nismo MFD can bare that stuff with aftermarket ECUs,but still as far as Nismo MFD is hard to get,i want to know in the first place,can the primary one can handle this. Thanks in advance for replies.
  23. Complete hks intake kit with pods suits rb26dett Gtr asking $585
  24. Hey all! Just a fellow petrolhead from Canada. I've owned a 1994 Nissan Silvia S14 (Yes JDM), and currently own a 2005 Honda S2000. Honestly, this might be a long shot, but the reason I signed up was to try and find someone on here (or point me in the right direction) to rent (hire) a Bayside Blue R34 GTR. I'll be in Australia for a month (Brisbane area, Melbourne area for the most part) and would love to drive my dream car on the Great Ocean Drive (or a similar road. Iam willing to pay money. Even if i'm just a passenger i'm ok with that, but i would prefer to drive if possible. Cheers!! Bryce P
  25. Hello guys, first of all, thank you for stopping by and giving this a view! Okay so, the car ran perfectly after the tune but about 3 days later under full throttle, when it reaches about 6-8k it will start to backfiire about 2-4 pops. Things I've done to try to fix the problem: Changed spark plugs and gaped to the tuners specification of .02 Changed fuel filter Things the car has done to it that relates: 550 Walbro (tuned with the car) Fuel pressure regulator When I changed the spark plugs they all looked exactly the same, which makes me believe that the coils are working fine. But the plugs did look fouled as shown in the picture. I also attached an image showing my gap that was perfectly at .02 without damaging the tip. My fuel pressure is about 38psi on idle. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you!
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