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  1. Well my build has begun...GTR life Bought a brand new coolant bottle, bonnet cowl and rubber, new clips for the front grill. Also got a new GTR badge for the boot, original GTR key and a nice little Nismo key ring Will start fitting things this weekend, also going to wire in my sub and amp and tune the stereo. I've also changed the steering wheel to my mono 'race' wheel. When I got time I'll post my list of things I have decided to do. Love this car, love driving it, love playing with it,
  2. Genuine BBS wheels. Few light chips/scratches but none of the marks are deep or gouged. can post if needed - approx $150 to most major places. located just outside Toowoomba
  3. Hi all, Clearing out some parts from my R34 GT-R. All parts are ONO/negotiable, and freight can be arranged for some parts at buyers cost, others would best to be picked up due to the size. Located in the ACT. Please either PM me or contact me on 0424 056 507 for any inquires, as I have more photos of parts if required. Cheers. Rear Diffuser - $1500 Has slight damage, but can be bolted to the car just fine with nothing hanging down or loose, and damage cannot be seen from underneath. Please PM for more details/photos. Complete Aircon Assembly - $1000 A-LSD VSpec rear diff - $750 This is an active LSD from a V-Spec Bonnet - $1000 Standard V-Spec aluminum bonnet Interior carpet - $300 Interior plastic trim - $300 Standard Cat - $100 Motul 300V 2L Chrono - $40 Motul 300V 2L Comp - $40 Standard Oil pump - $50 Rear tail lights - $150 Roof lining - $200 Spare tyre - $50 Washer Bottle - $50
  4. Available now, used sparingly, perfect condition located outer East of Melbourne
  5. Hi all I have just completed a PowerTune standalone digital dash install into my R32 GTR, and found there wasn't much guidance online around some of the nuances involved into doing this into the R32 GTR. I apologize in advance for not taking many photos of the project, but I will do the best I can to recollect and detail what is involved. Many hiccups came from how the R32 GTR gets its speedo signal to the different computers in the car, as me removing the OEM speedo causes that signal to be lost and messes with the HICAS and Power Steering systems in the car. Removing the OEM cluster also meant my ECU lost its speed reference, messing with any speed-related settings in the ECU itself. I.E launch control. It was super scary going into this with so many unknown factors, so my hope is that this helps at least one person do the same swap. For reference, this install was done in a car with a Link G4+ ECU, however the premise will be the same for any ECU. As I get time I can upload whatever photos and videos I have from the project in an attempt to make things clearer, and am happy to do my best to help others with the install. However, I am not super active on these forums, so flick me an instagram message and i’d be happy to lend a hand (@__DEZIAH). First up, everything we used to install the Powertune dash and do all of the plugs: PowerTune Digital Dash + GPS Unit Mako Motorsports R32 Dash Mount Mako Motorsports LED Lights: Indicators, High Beam, 4WD, Check Engine Light, Door Open, Handbrake, ABS, Battery, Oil Pressure Wiring basics (Wiring tools, wire, loom tube, heat shrink, insulation tape etc) Link CAN Expansion Loom Digital Dash Fuel Level Dampener (My particular one was from Spiyda) OEM Nissan R33 GTR Gearbox Speed Sensor 1x 8 Way DTM Deutsch Connector 1x 12 Way DTM Deutsch Connector 1x 4 Way DTM Deutsch Connector 2x 2 Way DTM Deutsch Connector Some of these parts may not be needed depending on how you want to do your install. I wanted to retain the functionality of the OEM harness, so that I could swap back to the OEM speedo if necessary and have it all work (all i'd have to do is reconnect the OEM speedo cable to the gearbox). I wanted it to be easily removable and tidy so we went with deutsch connectors to make the connection to the dash. I wanted the LED lights to be external to the dash for my warnings (and indicators, high beam etc), and most importantly I wanted fuel level to function and display on the dash. Preparing for the installation Start by removing anything and everything possible that could be in your way. Remove all of your interior trim pieces around the cluster, remove the OEM cluster, steering wheel etc etc. You want as much room to work as you can to make this process as easy as possible. I'd also suggest dropping your steering column to its lowest point to give you that extra little bit of room too. Wiring The LED's This was most likely the most time consuming part of the install. Because I wanted to retain functionality of the OEM harness, alot of splicing was required here in order to make that happen. I also wanted it to be tidy and easily removable, hence the use of multiple deutsch connectors. Below is what pins we spliced from the OEM harnesses, and what Deutsch connector we put them into. You don’t have to copy this exactly, and there may be a more optimal setup of where to pin everything, but this is what we did and it works. Function OEM Power OEM Ground DTM Power DTM Ground Indicators - Left 4 16 DTM 12 - Pin 1 DTM 8 - Pin 1 Indicators - Right 3 16 DTM 12 - Pin 2 DTM 8 - Pin 2 ABS 25 7 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 8 - Pin 5 Battery 25 17 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 4 CAT Temp Sensor / CEL 25 29 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 5 Handbrake 25 12 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 6 High Beam 18 19 DTM 8 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 7 Door Open 25 30 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 8 4WD 31 32 DTM 8 - Pin 4 DTM 12 - Pin 9 Oil Pressure 25 34 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 10 These were wired into the Mako Motorsports LED’s which came with my dash, so it was as simple as matching them up and off we went. Be sure to test all of them as you go, as you don’t want to be chasing issues once you’ve completed all of your wiring. I have a bunch of videos showing all of this, but i’m unsure how to upload them here (or if I even can). Wiring The Fuel Level Dampener + Fuel Level The fuel level dampeners purpose is to stop your fuel level jumping all over the place. Without this, your fuel level signal will be jumping up and down and be an absolute nightmare to look at. The dampener requires a 5v power source to work, so we used one of my ECU’s spare 5v outputs to provide that power. My ECU also has a ‘sensor ground’ input, so we used that for the ground signal. Pin 6 on the factory harness is the fuel level signal, so that was spliced into to give the dampener the signal it was after. And it was then sent to the ECU using one of the spare sensor inputs. I did not bother wiring up a low level warning LED, as I could set up my dash to display one if I wanted. But who really relies on one of those to tell you that you’re running low on fuel in a car like this. The signal that comes out of my fuel dampener then runs to an Analogue input on my ECU, and the ground goes to the sensor ground input on my ECU. My ECU can now see my fuel level (after I calibrate it of course - of which I will outline further down). Installing The New Speed Sensor The R33 GTR speedo sensor slots straight in and works in the R32 GTR transfer case. Meaning this is a literal swap in and out job. Remove the one bolt holding your speedo cable in, unscrew the cable, then use a flathead to leverage the sensor out of the transfer case. You will lose some fluid doing this, so be prepared to re-fill it. Note: you can fill the transfer case back up through the gear shifter, as that is connected to the transfer case, NOT the gearbox in the R32 GTR. Wiring The R33 GTR Speed Sensor Due to the factory mechanical speedo drive in the R32’s, removing the OEM cluster creates a lot of issues. The car converts the mechanical signal that the cable gives the cluster, and converts it into an electronic one which is then sent out to multiple other computers in the car. This affects things like HICAS, Power Steering, and any ECU speed related controls. This means if you remove this connection, lots of this stuff breaks. Fortunately, it DOES NOT use this for the Atessa system, so your 4wd system WILL NOT be affected. There was so much conflicting information around this, with no clear answers. I have now done this myself, and can confirm 4wd works perfectly fine. I do not have an aftermarket 4wd controller. Our original hope was that we could wire the R33 GTR electronic speedo drive straight into the OEM speedo input wires on the loom (pin 13 for power, and pin 14 for ground), as in theory everything else would then work as intended. Power steering won’t get upset, and HICAS would still work normally. However when we attempted this, we made a mistake with the pinouts in our DTW connector, meaning it was not working. So we ended up wiring the electronic speedo drive directly to the ECU instead. Only then did we realize we had wired it incorrectly, so that it could have likely gone into the OEM location and all worked as intended. However we haven’t been able to confirm this, so it would be awesome if someone else giving this a try, can check and confirm. The rest of this guide assumes that this will not work. All of my calibration stuff in my ECU software can be found further down into the writeup. Power Steering Issue Explained The R32 GTR has a ‘speed-assisted’ power steering system, which adjusts how much power steering assistance you get based on how fast you are going. This means you get assistance at lower speeds, but it reduces as your vehicle speed increases in an attempt to improve overall steering feel. Whilst an awesome system in concept, when you’re messing around with the speedo sensor, it breaks it. Once your oem speedo signal no longer works, around 30 seconds to a minute after you begin driving your power steering will become extremely heavy and basically turn off. IT goes into some form of failsafe mode as it gathers something has broken, and reverts to the lowest assist setting it has. You’ll have found this happen if you’ve ever snapped a speedo cable too. The OEM system uses a voltage regulator based on speed to determine how much power is send to the power steering unit, ultimately adjusting therefore how much assistance you get. This leaves us with two possible fixes. Power Steering Issue - Fixes First fix (the one I did), wiring in a voltage converter and setting it at a certain voltage to give the motor a constant voltage at all times. This means your power steering will have a constant feel at all times, so its a bit of a balancing act getting it right. Too much voltage going to the motor, steering feel will be extremely light at high speed. Too little, and steering will be too heavy at low speed. I purchased one from Jaycar (part number AA0236), and wired it in, bypassing the OEM system. Ryno did an awesome writeup of how to do this, so i’ll link that below. Personally, I set my voltage regulator to around 6 volts, as I liked the steering feel. This is all up to personal preference, and I dont mind it being a bit heavier at low speeds to have great feel when i’m actually driving. (Ryno’s writeup: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453968-r32-heavy-power-steering-how-to-disable-speed-variable-assist-steering-and-control-power-assistance-level/). I mounted mine above my brake pedal - that way the metal heat sink can dissipate heat effectively, its not in the way of anything, and I can easily adjust it if I ever feel the need. I’m sure you could also get fancier and wire this to some sort of dial and be able to control your power steering assist on the fly. But at this point, I just wanted it working. The second fix, which is more complicated - is to use your ECU to control the speed sensitive power steering. I’m not super clued up on this, but you could essentially use your ECU to control the power steering motor. This link here detailed a bit of how to do this, but I never delved into it as it doesn’t bother me. https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/reinstating-speed-sensitive-power-steering-without-hicas.507017/ HICAS Removing the speedo signal will also break your HICAS. However I absolutely hate HICAS, so it is removed from my car, meaning this is a non-issue for me. I’m sure there is also a way to fix this, but it is likely along the same lines as getting your ECU to control your hicas motor. Otherwise, be noted that HICAS will either outright not work, or act very strangely if you remove your OEM speed signal. Wiring In The Dash So at this point, you should have functional warning lights (indicator etc), power steering should be working again, and your ECU should be able to see your vehicle speed and fuel level. Now comes the easy part, wiring the dash itself. This particular dash just needed a 5v power signal (it comes with a 12v - 5v converter), so we used that directly into one of the cars ignition sources. You need to ensure you use a good, strong signal for this, otherwise the dash will have issues with running under power and may not operate correctly. We went for an ignition source instead of accessory as I didn't want or need the dash running whilst I am just listening to music etc. We then made a new ground for the dash and put it onto a bolt that goes through the chassis. This particular dash uses CAN to get the signal from the ECU and came with the required wiring. We plugged the supplied plug into CAN-2 on the ECU, and screwed the wires into the back of the dash. Not much more explanation really needed here. Calibration Now in theory, everything should be visible and working. All your signals and warning lights should work, your dash should power on, and your ECU should be able to see everything. Now, we just need to teach the ECU what everything does and means. Then, we need to tell the ECU to actually broadcast this data to the dash. (The calibration data is all on my laptop which I do not currently have access to - I will upload further when I can). My speed calibration settings: My fuel level calibration settings: My CAN broadcast settings: My custom fuel level CAN broadcast settings:
  6. Shed clean out. Located in Mount Gambier, SA. Call Don on 0467 333 642. Looking to sell everything together for $3000. Don’t ask to post or part out, it won’t be considered unless there isn’t a buyer within a couple of months. Almost everything is OEM and in reasonable condition. Every part in the photos is included (except my feet) even if it isn’t listed below. PARTS: Brake master cylinder Clutch master cylinder Clutch slave cylinder Wiper arms - set Heater core A/C cabin condenser A/C fan and airbox L&R doors - white, straight with about 75% of the interior Rubber weather shield- boot (good condition), doors (ok condition) Shifters - short and normal Plastics- bottom or windscreen, rear screen and door sills Various interior plastics Wheel bearings- front and rear Drive shafts - complete car set Steering rack - front and rear Front chassis member Front strut brace Handbrake- shoes and cables Hub carriers - front and rear Pod air cleaners Pistons - standard size, used for approximately 1000km Coils / struts - front and rear Sway bars - front (x2) and rear Suspension components - front and rear (see photos) Power steering and ATTESA pumps, oil cooler, and plumbing Brake callipers and backing plates - front and rear Front diff Bonnet latch bracket Brake and clutch pedals and mounts Electric fan and mount Floor mats - 2 sets (ok condition) Greddy Rebic III & simulator
  7. Rb25 Bearing Clearance Recommendation Currently Building a rb25 NEO for my stagea. At the stage of checking my clearances but have a few questions for some more experienced engine builders or hobbyists than myself. My over all goal for the build is a RELIABLE 600-700HP within a street application. Key word is reliable here I don’t plan on siting on limiter every time it starts im building it as a street car and plan to treat it as such, but obviously I still want to have my fun with it occasionally. Now the FSM states clearances between 0.02-0.04 mm (Big End) 0.028-0.46 (Mains). This is all well and good but as you can imagine Nissan chose these numbers based on a stock application needs. So I feel its fair to assume that using aftermarket race bearings, double the HP and a slightly higher rev limit would require a slightly different clearance. I’ve done some looking online surprisingly hard to find much info on recommended clearances. Even when I did they contradicted each other so here I am. If anyone has any advice, recommendations, stories and or numbers I would greatly appreciate it.
  8. I purchased this car on 1/8/2008 with 32500km on the clock, was told by my mechanic that the car is likely actually 132,500km based upon wear and tear. The White Nismo Odometer currently reads 85,500km. Selling becuase even though I love it I dont get to drive it as much as it deserves and its time for someone else to cherish this car. My boys have loved it with their two child seats in the rear, wanting me to make the woosh louder than the daddy's music but with a receeding hairline and doubling chins its time to let this boy racer be loved by another. This car drives well and comes on boost early. It talks to you about the road and gives you the real driving feel when hooking into a corner. Chirping second and running out of road is a frequesnt occurance. Will come with VIC Number plate GZLGTR. Price $90,000 Location Melbourne VIC Contact PM first then phone § Engine · APEXi super suction dry pod filter kit · Z32 AFM upgrade · D585 Coil Pack upgrade · Turbo replacement with Garret 2860R-7 x2 · APEXi PowerFC computer · APEXi turbo timer · BLITZ dual solenoid boost controller · Earthing Kit · Intercooler hard piping · Standard Intercooler and radiator · 3" cat back exhaust to JASMA sports muffler · Oversized Z flywheel and organic clutch from Racepace § Wheels · Rays TE37C in White 18"x9.5J PCD114.5 OF+12 5H § Tyres · Kumho Ecsta LE Sport 245/40Z R18 (80%, tyres usually last me 5 years) § Brakes · Alpha Omega v2 Brembo Big Brake Calipers Front and Rear with Intima pads. · Upgraded Brake master cylinder to Nissan 1" piston § Suspension and handling · Tein Superstreet adjustable coilovers all 4 corners · Front and Rear Strut tower braces · Whiteline Sway bars · Rebuilt Steering rack with upgraded bushes and new tie rod ends § Interior · White VSpec dial 240km Cluster and boost gauges (VSpec standard) · replacement LED globes internally · aftermarket video headunit with GPS and bluetooth · replacement speakers with Sony Xplode 6" component front and 6x9" rear · Boot mounted Soundstream 12" Subwoofer · Boot mounted Clarion amplifiers - XR2120 and XR2420 · Infrared car alarm · Interior in good condition, drivers seat worn at bolster · Nismo foot well mat set · Momo sports steering wheel and mounting boss § Exterior · VSpec bonnet lip · VSpec Bumper reo and vent pockets · VSpec Rear boot lip · VSpec Side skirts and spats · Custom painted blue metallic § Other · Regularly parked in the garage. · Tune - Car currently tuned to 300kW by Chequered Tuning · Headlights - Relay mod with HID projectors. · Access - two keys (one original GTR) with key fobs. · Damage - small dents in front left quarter panel, rim rash, Dirvers door rubbers perishing. · HICAS - light comes on after coming off 80kmh.
  9. https://www.rhdjapan.com/do-luck-carbon-aero-duck-tail-trunk-bnr34.html Hey guys, so I have done some real big time searching for his but no concrete yes, no. So don't hose me for "not using the search function". So is the r34 gtr (BNR34) boot lid compatible with the gtt chassis er34 I want to buy this trunk/lid for my er34 gtt 1998 as its the only non tacky looking duck-tail sorta look out there that i can find. If anyone knows if you can bolt a gtr lid on to a gtt chassis please let me know.
  10. Hi all Am about to do a digital dash swap in my 32 GTR, and am currently investigating the speedo signal issue. I'll be converting the car to run an electronic speed sensor using an R33 GTR unit, and wiring that into the ECU to give it a speed signal. My question is, will I also have to do something with the atessa system, since the OEM speedometer will no longer be fitted? Am struggling to get clarity anywhere as to whether the R32 Atessa system uses the OEM speedometer output for any of the stuff it does. Any insight will be appreciated!
  11. Hi guys, As per the title, i'm after a right hand side clear front bar indicator for a R34 GTR. Thanks Simon
  12. Hey looking to put a cam in into my r32 gtr just wondering is there a difference in quality between tomei hks and jun cams and which lift should I get. Thanks
  13. hey guys, long story short, bought this car for the motor. pulled the motor out, and some guy left me a deposit on the rolling shell. but 5 weeks later hes no where to be found. parents cracking shits wanting this out of the garage as its been sitting there for 2 months now. car is missing the complete interior. (all plugs etc are there, all parts would be plug and play) no motor. and the front end is missing because it was in an accident. (so no headlights, radiator support is mangled, no bumper, no bonnet) fenders are still there. this is the link for the gumtree add so you can check out the pictures Car has NO accident history, and can be re-registered. have been tempted looking at half cuts to get it back on the road, but i have 3 cars and bike atm. so it would never get done. http://www.gumtree.c...king/1023442744
  14. hey guys, long story short, bought this car for the motor. pulled the motor out, and some guy left me a deposit on the rolling shell. but 5 weeks later hes no where to be found. parents cracking shits wanting this out of the garage as its been sitting there for 2 months now. car is missing the complete interior. (all plugs etc are there, all parts would be plug and play) no motor. and the front end is missing because it was in an accident. (so no headlights, radiator support is mangled, no bumper, no bonnet) fenders are still there. this is the link for the gumtree add so you can check out the pictures Car has NO accident history, and can be re-registered. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/dianella/cars-vans-utes/1996-r33-gtr-rolling-shell-good-paint-sell-wrecking/1023442744
  15. selling my wheels, check out gumtree add for info and pics. was going to keep them, but need to make room in the garage http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/dianella/wheels-tyres-rims/rays-engineering-nismo-lm-gt2-s-brand-new-tyres-18x9-5-14/1025684880 $2000 ono
  16. Selling cause no longer needed anymore. Items are in Newcastle west NSW. All items are BRAND NEW sealed in their boxes. will ship at your expense or welcome to pick them up from newcastle Genuine Nissan Skyline R32 GTR (RB26DETT) Complete Engine Gasket Kit(paid $399 + Delivery) $350 Turbo N1 Upgrade Kit R32 R33 GTR RB26 RB26DETT (Paid $299) $250 ARP HEAD STUD KIT NISSAN SKYLINE GTR RB26DETT ( Paid $350) $300 not in a rush to sell them so no stupid offers would be appreciated. i have reciepts for all of the items which were purchased 2 months ago
  17. Hi all, I have an White r33 gtr for sale, 112,xxx klm on the clock. When I got the car the bottom end was stuffed so I am in the process of building another engine for it. Another bottom end has been used with a fresh rebuild, (rings, bearings, hone, new seals, reshimed head, gates timming belt). The car has r33 gtr wheels on it with new tyres (245/45). Coil overs, boost guage, and 3.5" exhaust with tuned y-pipe and split dumps. Stock turbos that have been port matched with the manifolds, car also has an aftermarket front bar, (not sure what brand), and H1 HID lights (low Beam). The engine is still being put together at the moment and will be run in before sale. If any one is interested in the car and would like to see the engine before its is complete you can contact me and we can arrange something, im asking $20,999 ono with rego and road worthy. Located in Brisbane. Thanks
  18. R33 GTR carbon front lip *brand new* $300 if gone in the next few days Buddy club p1 racing originals Good condition , slight rash on 2 rims Front tyres ok. rears finished 17x9 5 x 114.3 $700 Call or text any time 0407083177- joey
  19. I have 2 sets of r33 Gtr wheels for sale, Both sets in good condition Set 1 Has the centers professionally painted black, with a set of new Milanza H1 245/45/17 $1200 ono. Set 2 Standard colour, tyres are pretty average 3 x prob under legal, one has good tread. $800 ono. Located in Bris. Will consider swaps for Wheels to suit R33 Gtr. Pic available on request
  20. Australian delivered R35 GTR, immaculate condition, 16xxxks, always serviced through Nissan, REO run flats, standard car no modifications. 35 GTR plates available! Please call Simon on 0431388718 if you have any questions or further photos. Please no time wasters, if your not interested in buying please don't comment. Vehicle is in Adelaide price no mucking around no more no less $99,000 not negotiable
  21. hey guys got an RB26 sump no diff, still has the stock baffles. $200 negotiable located in lalor victoria call or message 0411421097 i was going to chop it up and turn it into a RWD sump but ended up buying one already done. can freight it for about $40 to all major cities
  22. Hi guys Anyone out there actually installed these? The rear mounts that push into the subframe MUST be installed a certain way up...(Jap instructions are not clear which way) I will get photos up to explain asap.... Just wondering if anyone has the answer now? Cheers
  23. Hey guys im wanting to try and get the R34 GTR body kit for my GT and im wondering you can just fit the front side and back with out having to do a full conversion with the tail lights and all that seems a bit price i will be putting a new RB25 turbo engine in once off my p's so ill have the car for a long time let me know if you guys thinks its worth doing or if it can even be done the way i wanting to do it
  24. PRICE DROP $8500 was 9500 1993 R32 GTR N1 Front bumper 112k km, 3 inch cat back 650cc injectors nistune PODS Filters button clutch recently put in. deep dish steering wheel nismo dash 320km Gauges have been replaced with defi copies in middle gauge cluster Gauges on A Piller. Oil temp / boost Oil Filter Relocation Oil Cooler 4wd torque splitter controller S15 Wheels, 2 with good rubber, 2 meh Alarm system / immobiliser with hidden kill switch Rego till Mid October in NSW Plates included in sale I bought this car a couple of months ago with a "blown head gasket" for more than im selling it for. Turned out that there is some minor scoring inside the bore on cylinder 4 and 5. I currently have it in bits so that any perspective buyer can assess it themselves. It will require it to be bored out a bit or a replacement block (ive seen just the blocks go in good condition between $1000 and $1200. I already have another R32 GTR which just broke at wakefield so my loss is your gain. Id rather be honest about its issue than put it back together and pretend it doesn't have it. The pistons/rods/crankstaft are all in good re useable condition, Car is located 3 hrs west of sydney. BUT to the right buyer i may be able to arrange delivery at a small cost but will need a deposit (i have my own car trailer). I am not after swaps. i need the money to fix my other GTR. as i said my loss is your gain. I was planning to build it as a track car myself. COME AND GET A BARGAIN, All it needs is a replacement block and put it back together and you got a good GTR for CHEAP.. First in with cash get it. I want it gone this weekend if possible.
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