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Found 217 results

  1. Hello guys, I picked up a nice little 2003 350GT-8 with a buggered CVT gearbox, I fitted a secondhand CVT gearbox but was unable to rectify the faults. After about 1 year of spending time trying to find the faults, I decided I would make the leap and convert the sedan to a 6MT from a 350Z. Please try and refrain from writing things like "WHY DIDNT YOU JUST BUY A MANUAL TO START WITH" etc etc. I don't care. The car cost me $1500 licensed and all, and 2k for the conversion. Still cheaper than buying a 350 6MT. This post will contain as many photos as possible as I progress through the build. This will be continually updated as I complete the stages. I have never been able to find out about mounting the handbrake lever, or the legalities on cutting the transmission tunnel out to fit the gearbox. I hope to provide some light on these matters for the next person to take on the conversion project. Removed CVT and threw it in the skip bin. Best feeling of my life. GOOD RIDDANCE. Removed the following; Carpet (needed a clean anyway) Front and rear seats Center console HVAC and anything in my way Witing harness Airbag module, Gyro & Traction control module. (NOTE ANYTHING WITH YELLOW PLUGS IS SRS AIRBAGS, MAKE SURE BATTERY UNPLUGGED ALSO DO NOT FLIP OVER THE SRS MODULE FROM UNDER THE CONSOLE, IF YOUR BATTERY IS CONNECTED OR IT HAS CHARGE IT WILL SET OFF YOUR AIRBAGS. IVE SEEN IT DONE. VERY DANGEROUS.) Brackets and really anything you see is going to slow you down. Mock fitted the console and handbrake assembly to see the alignment. Measured gearbox to the tunnel. Pictures of the handbrake assembly and how it DOES NOT match anything on the original tunnel, I guess you could make up a few brackets and cut some holes but that is dodgy and I want this thing to be as good as factory when I am done. I have a manual tunnel from a 350Z, I have decided to remove the inner skin that has the moulding for the manual trans and the handbrake that I require. Once done will be as simple as bolting it all onto the new inner skin as per factory. I was able to drill out the spot welds with a Spot weld cutter available for $20 its like a little hole saw. I have a qualified boilermaker / engineer on hand to weld the skin into the cars existing tunnel. There are A LOT of little spot welds not marked with arrows, the arrows are just pointing out a few of the ones I started to cut out. More photos and info to come! Thanks
  2. Hey fellas, so recently purchased a 92 gtst rolling shell and it seem as tho it has an auto dash, it has had an SR and an RB25 in it before has modplates and was last registered with a sr20 in it, so my problem is will i run into any problems when i go too put a RB25 in it? is there anything that can be dodgy about auto conversions that i should check on or is there anyway i can tell if has been? can post pics if need be,Cheers.
  3. Hey guys, Thought I'd drop an update on the 6MT swap on my 2002 350gt-8.. On Saturday I dropped the diff, driveshaft & CVT with the help of a friend & only nearly killed him once with the cvt falling off the jack hahaha. Got it done in about 2.5-3hrs with a few hours prep I did the weekend before. Prep like drop exhaust, remove most of the bellhousing bolts, CVT clutch lines, loosen what driveshaft bolts I could etc. The most difficult parts were the little things really, remove this to get to that etc. Going through the CVT inspection plate to remove the X (I forgot what its called- between flywheel/torque convertor) otherwise the torque converter will still be attached and fighting the removal of the gearbox. Removed started motor, cable tied it aside to spin and wedge the X to get to the bolts through the inspection plate. Also removed the CVT dipstick & a loom bracket to get bellhousing bolts off from the top inside engine bay. Didn't have to touch the interior just left it in neutral to rotate driveshaft, disconnected gear linkage, was a peice of cake actually. I have a question though.. I sourced a CD001 6MT through this forum like at least 3 years ago for 1k before I knew of the difference. Is it possible to rebuild a CD001 so it has synchros like a CD009 or at least strengthen it?? also I've watched a bunch of youtube vids and I'm getting the impression that it's better to weld an open diff over a VLSD. Can anyone explain why this is please? Also have a 2003 350z VLSD I'm installing along with Whitline bushings essentials kit. Will measure up the driveshaft when 6MT & diff are installed. Next up is to prep the Z1 clutch for install, remove auto flywheel, rear main seal if required etc, solid bushings, interior prep, prep 6MT crossmember, install 6MT, short shifter etc, handbrake relocation(the cable is already right where it needs to be running through the tranny tunnel), clutch/brake pedal install then once that's all done scratching my head for a day maybe dealing with electronics hehe.. Just goto bridge the neutral safety switch and figure out reverse lights I think.. I'm going by this thread below mainly. But didnt even look at it when getting into the job, basically just unbolt remove whats in the way and drop whats needed. Yes I'm more than likely forgetting a lot, but it's pretty straight forward. Having my mechanic friend there for really helped figuring out the inspection plate X removal & with tips for getting more leverage/using the car to our advantage. Like loosening the axel shaft bolts with the 2nd spanner pinned up against the sway bar, removing the the driveshaft still attached to the diff as we didnt have the 8mm allen key tool required for the diff side driveshaft. ALL THIS WAS DONE ON WITH THE CAR ON JACK STANDS WITH BASIC TOOLS BTW...I'm waiting on an order from the USA- 'Never Ending Details'. DO NOT USE THIS COMPANY. They f**king suck. Barely any communication, Took ages to ship (nearly 2 months) and that's with me threatening them with a VISA dispute. Anyways just thought I'd add my experience with them. Pretty much follows the multiple bad reviews I've read online, same shit. The order was for flywheel/pressure plate bolts/various peices as it was a lot cheaper than going through Nissan (eg $17.50 VS ~$2 for 1x OEM flywheel bolt) I'm stoked the hard part is pretty much over. More room for activities now hehehe. BTW, the goal for this car is to make it into a nice street/semi drift capable car, with strut bracing/chassis reinforcement, coilovers, camber/angle mods & maybe a plenum spacer/intake being on the cards. Already has a mean sounding full borla exhaust & headers from the previous owner + ditch the wack bob jane special rims for some lightweight Rays TE37's. This car has been sitting for 3-4 years so I'm feeling really accomplished and excited to get her on the road again I will try to keep you guys updated. Cheers, Seb
  4. Nissan Skyline R34 GTT 2.5l Turbo Manual Coupe (Winton tow photo was from the end of the life of the previous motor <3 ) Year 2000 165xxx kmsEngine 80xxx kmsEngine -Stock rb25det neoNew oem coilpacksNew spark plugs (bkr6es)Stock turbo boostedTurbosmart boost teeZ32 Airflow Meter (genuine) - recently replacedNistune ECU tuned by RM performance in ringwood. 170rwkw at stock boostWalbro 460 fuel pumpFull turboback exhaust from Japan. Very quiet around town until you get to high revsAll new filtersBlitz front mount intercoolerNew power steering rackRecent replaced starter motorBodyQM1 WhiteFactory nismo altia front bumperFactory nismo altia rear bumperFactory nismo altia side skirtsGenuine r34 GTR spoiler (adjustable)Bluetooth head unit with aux etcExtra speaker for hands freeRare factory Nissan floor matsConcave concept cc03r wheels 18*9/ 18*10Yokohama advan A048 tyresFull slideworx adjustable arms availableSlideworx front coiloversZeal function rear coiloversRuns and drives beautifullyHas 9 months VIC rego
  5. Neat and tidy Sonic Silver, 1996, Series 2, Manual, 4 Door Skyline with a genuine 273 RWKW. (Northern NSW) (Some may recognise this vehicle from these forums) This car is an excellent example and it has been a joy to own. Very reliable Canberra Car imported locally in 2002. 210,000Kms. Just moved to the Northern Rivers Area (Lismore, Lennox Heads-Alstonville) which is where it is now. Great condition for it's age, and always serviced every 5000kms with quality products. Perfect for those who want an import while keeping the missus happy with doors for kids and groceries. Mature owner. Modifications are: -Genuine Garrett 3071 Turbo with braided lines and aluminum intake pipe. -Vi-Pec Engine Management System, tuned by ESP in Queanbeyan -Front-mount Intercooler -Upgraded 040 fuel pump -Upgraded 700cc (approx) injectors -Split-fire coil packs -Heavy duty clutch -Full X-Force exhaust system -Biggest pod filter you have ever seen -Re-shimmed and serviced LSD Diff -Whiteline swaybars front and rear with new knuckles -DBA slotted brake rotors, braided lines and Project-Mu Pads Body has a few scratches consistent with it's age, but I recently had the front and rear bar resprayed. Interior: - Great JVC stereo with new speakers all round and a pro-installed amplifier. Includes bluetooth. - Turbo Timer - New gearshift and handbrake leather boots Servicing: - Timing belt, water pump, idler pulley replaced at 198,000 - Serviced every 5000K's with Castrol Edge 10-60 - Recently serviced gearbox with new fluid -Re-shimmed and serviced LSD Diff - Regularly detailed with Dodo wax products Miscellaneous: - New battery - Really beautiful dark tint - Ice cold air-conditioning Spare set of wheels available aswell.
  6. Hi I’m after a r31 manual conversion kit in Adelaide can anyone help? Cheers ph 0407908059
  7. When in neutral, i push clutch right in, and give it some revs. 3500-5000rpm it grinds. Even when its in a gear and clutch right in, rev and it grinds. And when driving, changing gears at high revs grinds. If i let revs drop to 2000-3000rpm its no worries. 1993 nissan skyline r33 GTsT. Manual, single turbo. RB25DET.
  8. Hey guys just had a quick question. Recently bought a 2005 manual 350gt. Have noticed a couple things. One was that the seatbelt light stays on in the dash. The other was this morning when I put the car into nuteral it was making some strange noises. Didn't sound good at all. And seemed harder to change gears than yesterday. But then after it warmed up the noise was no longer there and gears got easier. Is this a common problem when the car is cold? Or do you think something may be wrong? Thanks
  9. Need some help with my speed sensor on the RB20DET. I've pretty much figured out where it's located, on top of the transmission, hard to reach without dropping the exhaust. The question is WHERE does it plug into on the harness? I know that the revolution sensor aka speed sensor on the RB20DET in the R32's is supposed to be mechanically driven, though...I've got a shielded cable with a white and red wire coming off of them. Whoever did the motor swap did some wacky wiring and I have no idea where anything goes now. I'm assuming that my speed sensor is electronic then? It's the RE4R01A trans (A/T) so I need anyone with an A/T to give me a hand right now with this. I spent the past several weeks tracking down diagrams for the TCM which are non-existent, diagrams to the transmission plugs (again non-existent) and searched this site up and down and kept getting zero results. The last question would be, IF I maintain the electronic speed sensor on the transmission, how would I wire it up? What plug did anyone use on their RB25 (those are electronic I believe). Obviously any and all help is greatly appreciated.
  10. Hey guys, need some help trying to figure out what the plug is on my chassis/engine harness next to the ECU, the three engine plugs have a home but there'sone plug on the chassis harness that is missing a home. Anyone with an auto RB20DET if you could reply to this and tell me if you've got it plugged into something. I'll upload a picture tomorrow morning, it's nearly 11pm here and it's too dark to see anything. It'd be nice if it's just an optional plug as my old chassis harness was ripped to shreds and had an R31 ECU hard wired in.
  11. I'm looking for a possibility to get hold of a copy of the R33 Chassis Manual from, as stated. I would be more then willing to for a digital copy. Hit me up if you could help me.
  12. Okay, so i have decided to sell my 180SX, most people like a reason for the sale, and that is that i just need the cash. $8000. It is as follows, not the cleanest one on the market but also not a modded piece of crap Drift Rig with a million dents and scratches. I will picture the bad areas of the car, and list the good aswell It is a 1993 Manual 180SX, running an SR20DET with an s14 T28 Turbo, strong gearbox never heard any sort of crunch at all. There may be a stage 2 clutch put through it i dont remember. I bought it defected and put it through regency first go, because i went through the whole car and did nearly everything i thought they would pick on Includes the Following All seals and gaskets in the motor, minus the head gasket as there was no need including turbo dump gasket, gearbox mount and all swaybar/boots/joint rubbers around the running gear, 4 wheel-wheel alignment about 200ks ago The motor when i bought the car had 55,000 ks on it after a rebuild, but i dont have the papers and that was at 138,000 ks on the car. The car now has 155,000 ks so you do the math on the ks on the motor. The body on the car isn't perfect but it isn't bad either, i can upload more daytime pictures if anyone needs them, and yes the car does come with a steering wheel. The carpet on the drivers side is worn with a bit of a hole but otherwise very clean. I have uploaded pictures of the car with 2 sets of rims, it can come with either set if you choose but the alloy finish ones need tyres, not wear from "burnouts" just wear on the inner side from camber, which was from the skyline in the background, if anyone is interested to, the skyline is for sale aswell, basic info: Non turbo 1995 R33 with 153,000 ks. Very reliable car with a bit of work behind it. Quick post i would have missed something, just ask. reach me on here or on 0478162158
  13. Just removed from my R33 GTST is a gearbox rebuilt 12 months ago but couldn't find a 2nd gear syncro so had to put it back together. Just put in a brand new box' so this one has to go. Has slight crunch into 2nd when cold. Hardly notice when warm. Everything else is fine. All new bearings and seals done when rebuilt. May rebuild it again but available now for $800. RB25 Neo engine from R34 GTT. 235,000kms. Removed from wife's car 12 months ago and was going to put in my R33 but will finish the RB30 for that. Runs perfectly. Only took it out as we were offered a very new engine for a bargain price. Couldn't resist. Whole engine from turbo to throttle body and engine cover included. Never boosted or driven hard as we are both over 50. Always serviced every 5,000kms. $1,200. PM me as I will check the forum regularly or just SMS Gary -0412662337.
  14. V35 VQ25DD manual trans swap So I'm new to here, and I hope people still monitor this forum. I am posting for a buddy. He just partially swapped the 25DD to manual 6 speed (from the 350z). After the swap, he is having crazy ABS problems. He will be driving, then all the sudden the ABS will kick in out of the blue and the breaks pulsate as if you are depressing the brakes even though your not. He took he ABS fuse and removed the two slated in the engine bay as for the abs. Problem still exists. This happens at random times and if you stop and shut off the car, it will reset. Btw, this was the same issue we saw on a VQ35 on a manual way, but the ECU in the 35 was less straight forward, and it was assumed the problem resided in one of the couple ECUs on the VQ35. If you know someone who did a 25 manual trans conversion, or know the answer please help me
  15. 2005 Series 2 PV35 350 GT Sedan for sale Extremely Rare 350GT 6 Speed Manual. 212KW series 2, and in perfect condition Car presents almost as new and has verified Japanese Odometer Certificate showing 9700km's when the car left Japan. I have fitted factory cruise control to the car since I purchased it. This Skyline was imported in 2010, and was driven here for a year, then garaged for five years. It had only done 29000 kilometres when I purchased it. The Kays on this car are genuine, not Japanese kays. And you can tell by looking underneath it, and around the car that it has genuinely done very low kays. Fitted with full Tokiko suspension and 18x8 Alloy wheels the car looks great. Still has standard exhaust etc. A beautiful quiet cruiser with around 8.2 litres per hundred kilometres highway driving, and better than 11 around town. Huge fuel tank sees an average of 800 kays to a tank full of fuel. It does require at least 95 rated fuel though. Beautiful unmarked interior with factory mats. Has aftermarket Mongoose alarm, (I don't know why). If your looking for a 350Z, but think they're not practical, this car is basically a four door 350Z. Heaps of torque, and comfort. Also fitted with not only the 6 Speed from the Zed, but also the R200 Diff, which is limited slip. Makes an incredible touring car, as it is seriously quiet, and cruises beautifully. The car will require new springs for roadworthy, and is close to needing disc pads. (I have already had a RWC Check). I will replace the springs, hand the existing ones over to you, and change the disc pads if the price is right. Otherwise a negotiation for you to get the roadworthy will be fine too. Only damage on the car is a scratch on the rear bumper bar, and scrapes underneath because the car is too low. Recently fitted with four new tyres. This really is a beautiful car, and it deserves a great home. $12,900.00 With RWC. Registered until July next year.
  16. Full ad: – Photos: ^^^ If viewing on the SAU app please tap the image and select View in Gallery Note: This is a replacement thread for the original EOI: ... Asking $19,500 with some exclusions, please see the full ad. PM for further details.
  17. Two faults with my v36 So I have two faults with my v36 manual coupe and wondering if this is a common thing. One is the clutch sticking to the floor on spirited take off's and the second is axle/driveline shudder or bounce with wheel spin on certain surfaces. The worst of the two is the clutch that I'm pretty sure is a clutch slave cyclinder problem... Again!! When I got the car I found that the clutch felt fine until on the occasions I did a spirited take off with some revs/throttle and "clutch control" (not riding ha ha) for a good take off. The clutch would stick half way to the floor until I either backed off or pulled the pedal back manually. I nursed the clutch from then as occasionally the clutch would slip when this happened. Absolutely no problem with the clutch on normal driving, nor full throttle when the clutch was fully out. Just couldn't give full throttle before the clutch was out. Anyway, so after they changed the clutch fluid, then the master cylinder it came down to the slave cylinder which fixed the problem. Scored a new stock clutch plate out of it as well as the master cylinder which didn't need replacing. Problem is it has now come back after less than 20k. I don't usually abuse the clutch however, with reviews matching on down shifts and usually low revs to take of so not riding the clutch. Thing is I have driven manual for most of my life and neither of my s15 had this problem with the last one close on 200kw at the wheels. Is the v36 slave cylinder really this weak or have I just had bad luck? My take off's aren't that abusive. Just the odd spirited take off I'd expect any performance car to be capable of on occasions. The other problem is the shudder (feels like the old school axle tramp on a live axle car) I get occasionally on minor wheel spin with traction turned off. It doesn't always happen, and it can often happen on minor wheel spin on take off. I've had it in the wet multiple times as well. I've got some decent high performance tyres (pilot sport 4S) but this also happened on the re050a when they were rat sh!t grip near the end of their life. Could this be bush wear or something? I've got stick suspension except I have whiteline adjustable sway bars in it (although it did with the stock sway bars).
  18. 2003 Nissan Skyline Coupe 6 Speed Premium Pristine condition 2003 Nissan Skyline 350GT 6 Speed Premium ONE OWNER vehicle privately bought at Japanese dealership and imported through J-Spec. Exterior is spotless with no marks or scratches. Interior is in great condition. Underbody has no fluid leaks or rust. All electrics are in perfect working condition. Very well maintained with regular Mobil oil changes at 7-9k kilometers intervals. The car is completely stock with no mods apart from JASMA muffler, Razo pedals and a shift knob. Available for inspection in Sydney at the moment. $16900 Contact Igor at 0411874909 or [email protected]
  19. R34 GT-T Hi all, My R34 GTT is up for sale. It has been my daily commute for around 5 years and it has never missed a beat! 1998 model, manual, with factory sunroof and original Skyline floor mats. Has always been serviced by both Jtune Auto and Revzone. Body is in really good shape, minor road scratches. The interior is overall good, however the seats could use a steam clean and the plastic a good polish to bring it back up. Wheels have minor gutter rash. Mod List: Nistune ECU Nismo Triple Gauges Nismo Front Dash Nismo S-Tune side and rear bumper Greddy Profec B Spec 2 electronic boost controller - set to 11 psi Heavy Duty Exedy Clutch - only travelled 15,000km Turbo Back Exhaust - 3 inch, legal decibel and road height POD Filter 18 inch MP37 black rims from Mars Performance 165,xxx kms on the clock, rego ends 25th July 2017. Selling without road worthy and priced accordingly. Any questions, please do let me know. Asking for $13,000 ONO.
  20. R34 GTT 300rwkw Manual Couple Car will not be ready for sale for approximately 3 weeks while I complete minor repairs. Please read the entire ad! My R34 has recently been diagnosed with a piston ring problem and has low compression on two cylinders. I will be paying for the motor to be professionally rebuilt prior to sale Mod list: Hypergear 3076 Turbo Tial 38mm external wastegate Nistune ECU Blitz FMIC Gizzmo Electronic Boost COntroller ARP Head Studs Permaseal Head Gasket Full custom exhaust system (great quality) 660CC Injectors only 5 months old Slideworx front coilovers Zeal Function rear coilovers 18 x 10.5 / 18x 9.5 concave concept rims Z32 Airflow meter Viper anti theft alarm and immobolizer Genuine Nismo Altia Bodykit Genuine R34 GTR Rear Spoiler The body is in very good shape, there are minor scratches around the drivers door, however I have had multiple components of the cars body recently painted to bring them up to scratch. Clean interior including OEM floor mats, Bluetooth head unit. Car has travelled 160,000kms. Will come with Victorian registration until 21/09 and I can assist with a roadworthy certificate. Car makes 298rwkw on 98, will need injectors to make more power, however this turbo did 383kw on Tao's test bed. Asking price is $23,500 with motor rebuilt (new pistons, rings, bearings, head gasket). Or $21,000 as is. For any offers below the asking price you will be bringing your own wheels. Car can be tuned to E85 upon request as my engine builder is also my tuner, this can be done for free with the sale and if you'd like to supply some larger injectors to go in the car for your tune I can accommodate this, however I would not recommend a dedicated E85 tune on injectors of this size.
  21. Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T For sale is my Nissan Skyline R34 GTT. We are moving interstate in a few months and will need a ute instead so the Skyline needs to sell to provide the funds. Below is some detailed information about the vehicle: Make: Nissan Model: Skyline R34 GT-T Year: 1998 Engine: RB25DET Neo Transmission: 5 Speed manual Odometer: 181,000 kms Colour: Yellow (code EV1) Registration: 20/01/2018 Price: $17,800 ono Modifications/Upgrades Engine - Blitz Return flow Front Mount Intercooler (bought new few months ago) - X-Force turbo back exhaust - GFB plumb back blow off valve - Turbosmart boost tee set to 10 psi - Larger battery terminals for bigger battery Suspenion/wheels/Exterior - Koni shocks and King Springs - 18x9 +30 CST Hyper Zero wheels, brand new tyres on rear and Nitto Invo on front with 80% tread - Front Strut Brace - Genuine Nismo body Kit - Tinted Windows Interior - Retrimmed OEM steering wheel in leather with yellow cross stiching - Retrimmed OEM gearknob in black and yellow leather - Pioneer touch screen double din head unit (bluetooth, usb, iphone ready etc) - Alpine Type-R 6x9 rear speakers, Clarion Splits in front (All cabled for Amp) - Mongoose 3 point immobilser Service - Oil and filter changed at 178,000kms - Changed gearbox oil on 5/11/2016 - Major service on 21/12/2016 including: replaced timing belt using genuine Nissan timing belt kit, water pump, rocker cover gaskets (genuine Nissan), harmonic balancer, belts, coolant, bled brakes and new brake fluid (have receipts) The car is driven approximately three days a week and garaged every night. As described above, it has only minor tasteful mods and is mechanically faultless with no leaks and a smooth quiet idle. The interior is neat and tidy however the front seats would look better with a steam clean (this is one of those things that I never got around to doing) and the exterior is in excellent condition with only minor dents/scratches as can be expected for its age. I am negotiable on price for SAU members but please no time wasters. Will consider trades/swaps for dual cab 4x4 Utes (e.g. Nissan Navara, Mitsubishi Triton, Toyota Hilux etc). Feel free to contact me on 0407 931 097 or PM for any further questions.
  22. Free Massage Steering Wheel hey the amazing community of SAU. i have come again to ask for wisdom. so when i go over 80KM/H my Steering wheel decides to give me a massage and vibrate violently and it scares the crap outta me. I have quite dodgy rims (second hand). and i think that is my problem. i got it re-balanced and it did help alot but it still shakes and wobbles. Is there any way to fix this? Can this be a Coils problem? or will i have to buy new rims? If i buy brand new set of JDM rims from japan, will i still have shaking in my steering wheel when on the highway or when speeding over 80? **i would rather buy new sets then trying to fix these stupid rims which i lost tones of money on. side note: which rims do you recommend? thanks in advance.
  23. R33 Gts-t Manual 4door. 273 Rwkw Neat and tidy Sonic Silver, 1996, Series 2, Manual, 4 Door Skyline with a genuine 273 RWKW. Unfortunately for me, the timing belt tensioner has come loose and the engine is not running right. It isn't making power and backfiring. I suspect a valve may be bent. I have not investigated this. The car still runs and drives but I would not advise this until further investigation. I have dropped the price to reflect the suspected issue. I'm after a quick sale as I'm moving interstate. Pretty gutted I have to sell it and even more so that this has happened. I think you all know this car is an excellent example and it has been a complete joy to own.Offers over $6kNeat and tidy Sonic Silver, 1996, Series 2, Manual, 4 Door Skyline with a genuine 273 RWKW.Very reliable Canberra Car imported locally in 2002. 210,000Kms. NSW Rego Sept 2017. Location Canberra area.Great condition for it's age, and always serviced every 5000kms with quality products. Perfect for those who want an import while keeping the missus happy with doors for kids and groceries.Modifications are:-Genuine Garrett 3071 Turbo with braided lines and aluminium intake pipe.-Vi-Pec Engine Management System, tuned by ESP in Queanbeyan-Front-mount Intercooler-Upgraded 040 fuel pump-Upgraded 700cc (approx) injectors-Split-fire coil packs-Heavy duty clutch-Full X-Force exhaust system-Biggest pod filter you have ever seen-Re-shimmed and serviced LSD Diff-Whiteline swaybars front and rear with new knuckles-DBA slotted brake rotors, braided lines and Project-Mu PadsBody has a few scratches consistent with it's age, but I recently had the front and rear bar resprayed.Interior:- Genuine R34 GTR leather drivers seat- Great JVC stereo with new speakers all round and a pro-installed amplifier. Includes bluetooth.- Turbo Timer- New gearshift and handbrake leather bootsServicing:- Timing belt, water pump, idler pulley replaced at 198,000- Serviced every 5000K's with Castrol Edge 10-60- Recently serviced gearbox with new fluid-Re-shimmed and serviced LSD Diff- Regularly detailed with Dodo wax productsMiscellaneous:- New battery- Really beautiful dark tint- Ice cold air-conditioning*Please note the vehicle will not come with GTR wheels but R34 Rims and fruity tyres
  24. VIC non turbo manual Speed Sensor R33 RB25 gearbox Hey all im after a Non turbo manual R33 speed sensor in vic if possbile.. if anyone has anything let me know ( N/a one is the short one in the pic)
  25. 1999 R34 Skyline Sedan Selling my beloved 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 Sedan. Anyone who knows me will know how much I love this car and how much it breaks my heart to let it go but unfortunately I can no longer keep it. 1999 R34 sedan Two keys (main and factory spare) Factory midnight blue (rare) and factory manual 159,000 kms (I've owned it since 114,000 kms and have records and receipts for every bit of work + service completed) - Has always been filled up with 98 ~~major service completed at 114,000 kms~~ RB25 Neo (naturally aspirated) Last service was in Feb 2017 Rego until December 2017 Have reverted it back to stock / the way I purchased it in 2013: - Stock tyres (85/90% tread on front, 40/45% tread on rears) - Stock exhaust - Stock suspension - Stock taillights - Stock front seats - Stock horn - Factory privacy glass on rear windows Has gtt callipers with dimpled and slotted discs all round Rare factory mud guards on the rear Carbon fibre eyelids Aftermarket head unit with sub woofer (sub currently not working) Fully functioning air-conditioning, heater and window de-misters Electric windows and mirrors Spare tyre and Jack still located in boot Cons: - Front and rear bumpers in rough condition (planned on changing them so their current condition never bothered me) - Few surface rust spots + a few small dents (never bothered me as I was planning on respraying the car once I completed body work) - Silver boot lid (again never bothered me due to future respray plans) - Two small chips in windscreen (was fixed by O'brien but appears to have reopened; still passes pink slip for rego) - small hole in driver seat - rear passenger side window switch doesn't work; can only be operated by main switch on drivers side - sub woofer not working as mentioned before (I'm not good with electrics and it hasn't been bothering me that it hasn't been working, plus lately I simply have not had time to look at it) - Few little scuffs here and there but pretty good condition overall inside and out for an 18 year old car This car has never missed a beat for the 3 and half years I've owned it - been one of the most reliable cars our family has ever seen. It is in great condition for its age and the price takes into fact the few faults and touch ups needed to make it like new. It honestly is very hard to see it go but I can no longer afford to keep it and know it will bring someone else mountains of joy and happiness. The price is $11,390 negotiable - I am happy to negotiate the price after inspection ~~no swaps~~ If you don't like the price or don't like the car keep it to yourself - don't waste my time or yours. Any questions regarding the car or wanting to set up an inspection feel free to contact me. (as I am not always on here feel free to text me on 0431547420) Located Lower North Shore Sydney