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Found 177 results

  1. Looking to buy a non turbo p plate legal R34 skyline coupe. Preferably white or bayside blue. Must be manual and a series 1 (1998-1999). email/pm me to contact me.
  2. Tastagea

    so i need to remove the radiator from my 250t rs four which has been converted into a 6 speed manual out of a 350z. it is still using the stock radiator so it has lines going into the radiator for cooling the transmission from when it was an auto. So, are the transmission lines connected at the bottom to the two brass fittings? (photo attached for reference) these have nothing attached to them so i am not sure what they are for, other than that. i think i may be mistaking the transmission fluid lines for something else as the lines I want to remove are on the passengers side of the radiator and coming off the side of it. this photo shows the lines i need to remove. Any help would be appreciated. cheers
  3. If anyone needs the complete english Workshop manual for this engine i have it and am happy to share it with you, in pdf form. Cooling system https://ufile.io/7b31q Engine control https://ufile.io/ltv1r Engine Mechanical https://ufile.io/8ygvm Exhaust https://ufile.io/fny97 Lubrication https://ufile.io/ao98k Starting system https://ufile.io/znhl7 says it will expire in 30days let me know if you need it reuploaded. please keep it on the dl as not sure about the legalities behind sharing it.
  4. Hey guys I would like to get a manual conversion for a r31 or even a cheap manual car. Located in melbs Cheers from joel
  5. Full ad: http://bit.ly/4doorad – Photos: http://bit.ly/4doorpics ^^^ If viewing on the SAU app please tap the image and select View in Gallery Note: This is a replacement thread for the original EOI: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469494-eoi-the-ultimate-r34-family-hybrid-for-street-and-track-275rwkw/ ... Asking $19,500 with some exclusions, please see the full ad. PM for further details.
  6. Hi guys/gals! I'm trying to figure out a strange sound coming from my Skyline. Every so often, say, once every 3 or 4 times I reverse out of my garage, I hear an awful sound coming from under the car. I equate it to a slipping belt, but a lower tone. It sticks around for maybe 10 seconds, and goes away. No issues driving as of yet, no clicking/grinding. It's just a loud howl and I want to address it before it gets worse. Has anyone had this issue by chance? I was asking some friends local to me and they figure throw out bearing is failing. Ideas? Car is a '93 GTSt coupe with 165k K's on it.
  7. Just need someone or few people to give me a hand to convert my r34 sedan auto to manual All parts supplied Can $$ for work
  8. Hello guys, I picked up a nice little 2003 350GT-8 with a buggered CVT gearbox, I fitted a secondhand CVT gearbox but was unable to rectify the faults. After about 1 year of spending time trying to find the faults, I decided I would make the leap and convert the sedan to a 6MT from a 350Z. Please try and refrain from writing things like "WHY DIDNT YOU JUST BUY A MANUAL TO START WITH" etc etc. I don't care. The car cost me $1500 licensed and all, and 2k for the conversion. Still cheaper than buying a 350 6MT. This post will contain as many photos as possible as I progress through the build. This will be continually updated as I complete the stages. I have never been able to find out about mounting the handbrake lever, or the legalities on cutting the transmission tunnel out to fit the gearbox. I hope to provide some light on these matters for the next person to take on the conversion project. Removed CVT and threw it in the skip bin. Best feeling of my life. GOOD RIDDANCE. Removed the following; Carpet (needed a clean anyway) Front and rear seats Center console HVAC and anything in my way Witing harness Airbag module, Gyro & Traction control module. (NOTE ANYTHING WITH YELLOW PLUGS IS SRS AIRBAGS, MAKE SURE BATTERY UNPLUGGED ALSO DO NOT FLIP OVER THE SRS MODULE FROM UNDER THE CONSOLE, IF YOUR BATTERY IS CONNECTED OR IT HAS CHARGE IT WILL SET OFF YOUR AIRBAGS. IVE SEEN IT DONE. VERY DANGEROUS.) Brackets and really anything you see is going to slow you down. Mock fitted the console and handbrake assembly to see the alignment. Measured gearbox to the tunnel. Pictures of the handbrake assembly and how it DOES NOT match anything on the original tunnel, I guess you could make up a few brackets and cut some holes but that is dodgy and I want this thing to be as good as factory when I am done. I have a manual tunnel from a 350Z, I have decided to remove the inner skin that has the moulding for the manual trans and the handbrake that I require. Once done will be as simple as bolting it all onto the new inner skin as per factory. I was able to drill out the spot welds with a Spot weld cutter available for $20 its like a little hole saw. I have a qualified boilermaker / engineer on hand to weld the skin into the cars existing tunnel. There are A LOT of little spot welds not marked with arrows, the arrows are just pointing out a few of the ones I started to cut out. More photos and info to come! Thanks
  9. R34GTT up for sale. Have been driving this one as my daily for the last 4 years without a single hiccup, and only selling as its time to get a new toy. Has some typical stone chips in front bumper i never got around to fixing, but overall pretty nice considering the age of the vehicle. Always ran on 98 fuel, and never boosted over 12psi. Last tune it came in at 270hp at 10psi. List of mods etc below. Alpine bluetooth deck / 6' speakers SPITFIRE coil packs, HKS Front mount intercooler, HKS 15psi wastegate actuator, HKS ssqv blow off valve, GREDDY/TRUST Arnix pod filter with custom stainless intake pipe, Custom exhaust system (3"down pipe, high flow cat, 3.5" cat back), EXEDY heavy duty ceramic button clutch with machined flywheel, PORCHE BREMBO front 4 pot brake calipers and rotors, Cwest earth grounding kit, Only filled with 98 octane New battery BLITZ SBC i-D electronic boost controler, BLITZ power meter i-D, Auto watch alarm system with interior and exterior sensors, Project Mu pedals, Genuine Nissan skyline floor mats. Full Bomex bodykit fitted NISMO carbon fibre pillars, Ganador side mirrors, Cwest wing (easily removable), Factory sunroof - working perfectly, Factory xenon hid headlights Black racing pro N1 Japanese wheels (front 17x8 31 & rear 17x9 38), Nismo Circuit Link Pro Ultimate Set (suspension control arms, caster rods etc), HKS hypermax drag coilovers, Factory strut brace and cusco rear strut brace. It comes with papers for full history since import including every receipt and documents since landing in Australia! It is clean inside and out and drives beautifully. reasonable offers will be considered but low ball offers will be ignored. All test drives will be performed by me until genuine offer is given (I am sure you can understand why with a performance vehicle) Selling for $17500 neg. Contact: Aaron. 0402155000 [email protected]
  10. Nissan Skyline R34 GTT 2.5l Turbo Manual Coupe (Winton tow photo was from the end of the life of the previous motor <3 ) Year 2000 165xxx kmsEngine 80xxx kmsEngine -Stock rb25det neoNew oem coilpacksNew spark plugs (bkr6es)Stock turbo boostedTurbosmart boost teeZ32 Airflow Meter (genuine) - recently replacedNistune ECU tuned by RM performance in ringwood. 170rwkw at stock boostWalbro 460 fuel pumpFull turboback exhaust from Japan. Very quiet around town until you get to high revsAll new filtersBlitz front mount intercoolerNew power steering rackRecent replaced starter motorBodyQM1 WhiteFactory nismo altia front bumperFactory nismo altia rear bumperFactory nismo altia side skirtsGenuine r34 GTR spoiler (adjustable)Bluetooth head unit with aux etcExtra speaker for hands freeRare factory Nissan floor matsConcave concept cc03r wheels 18*9/ 18*10Yokohama advan A048 tyresFull slideworx adjustable arms availableSlideworx front coiloversZeal function rear coiloversRuns and drives beautifullyHas 9 months VIC rego
  11. Hey guys, Thought I'd drop an update on the 6MT swap on my 2002 350gt-8.. On Saturday I dropped the diff, driveshaft & CVT with the help of a friend & only nearly killed him once with the cvt falling off the jack hahaha. Got it done in about 2.5-3hrs with a few hours prep I did the weekend before. Prep like drop exhaust, remove most of the bellhousing bolts, CVT clutch lines, loosen what driveshaft bolts I could etc. The most difficult parts were the little things really, remove this to get to that etc. Going through the CVT inspection plate to remove the X (I forgot what its called- between flywheel/torque convertor) otherwise the torque converter will still be attached and fighting the removal of the gearbox. Removed started motor, cable tied it aside to spin and wedge the X to get to the bolts through the inspection plate. Also removed the CVT dipstick & a loom bracket to get bellhousing bolts off from the top inside engine bay. Didn't have to touch the interior just left it in neutral to rotate driveshaft, disconnected gear linkage, was a peice of cake actually. I have a question though.. I sourced a CD001 6MT through this forum like at least 3 years ago for 1k before I knew of the difference. Is it possible to rebuild a CD001 so it has synchros like a CD009 or at least strengthen it?? also I've watched a bunch of youtube vids and I'm getting the impression that it's better to weld an open diff over a VLSD. Can anyone explain why this is please? Also have a 2003 350z VLSD I'm installing along with Whitline bushings essentials kit. Will measure up the driveshaft when 6MT & diff are installed. Next up is to prep the Z1 clutch for install, remove auto flywheel, rear main seal if required etc, solid bushings, interior prep, prep 6MT crossmember, install 6MT, short shifter etc, handbrake relocation(the cable is already right where it needs to be running through the tranny tunnel), clutch/brake pedal install then once that's all done scratching my head for a day maybe dealing with electronics hehe.. Just goto bridge the neutral safety switch and figure out reverse lights I think.. I'm going by this thread below mainly. But didnt even look at it when getting into the job, basically just unbolt remove whats in the way and drop whats needed. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/552038-5at-to-6mt-swap-info-diy-guide-thread.html Yes I'm more than likely forgetting a lot, but it's pretty straight forward. Having my mechanic friend there for really helped figuring out the inspection plate X removal & with tips for getting more leverage/using the car to our advantage. Like loosening the axel shaft bolts with the 2nd spanner pinned up against the sway bar, removing the the driveshaft still attached to the diff as we didnt have the 8mm allen key tool required for the diff side driveshaft. ALL THIS WAS DONE ON WITH THE CAR ON JACK STANDS WITH BASIC TOOLS BTW...I'm waiting on an order from the USA- 'Never Ending Details'. DO NOT USE THIS COMPANY. They f**king suck. Barely any communication, Took ages to ship (nearly 2 months) and that's with me threatening them with a VISA dispute. Anyways just thought I'd add my experience with them. Pretty much follows the multiple bad reviews I've read online, same shit. The order was for flywheel/pressure plate bolts/various peices as it was a lot cheaper than going through Nissan (eg $17.50 VS ~$2 for 1x OEM flywheel bolt) I'm stoked the hard part is pretty much over. More room for activities now hehehe. BTW, the goal for this car is to make it into a nice street/semi drift capable car, with strut bracing/chassis reinforcement, coilovers, camber/angle mods & maybe a plenum spacer/intake being on the cards. Already has a mean sounding full borla exhaust & headers from the previous owner + ditch the wack bob jane special rims for some lightweight Rays TE37's. This car has been sitting for 3-4 years so I'm feeling really accomplished and excited to get her on the road again I will try to keep you guys updated. Cheers, Seb
  12. Hey fellas, so recently purchased a 92 gtst rolling shell and it seem as tho it has an auto dash, it has had an SR and an RB25 in it before has modplates and was last registered with a sr20 in it, so my problem is will i run into any problems when i go too put a RB25 in it? is there anything that can be dodgy about auto conversions that i should check on or is there anyway i can tell if has been? can post pics if need be,Cheers.
  13. Neat and tidy Sonic Silver, 1996, Series 2, Manual, 4 Door Skyline with a genuine 273 RWKW. (Northern NSW) (Some may recognise this vehicle from these forums) This car is an excellent example and it has been a joy to own. Very reliable Canberra Car imported locally in 2002. 210,000Kms. Just moved to the Northern Rivers Area (Lismore, Lennox Heads-Alstonville) which is where it is now. Great condition for it's age, and always serviced every 5000kms with quality products. Perfect for those who want an import while keeping the missus happy with doors for kids and groceries. Mature owner. Modifications are: -Genuine Garrett 3071 Turbo with braided lines and aluminum intake pipe. -Vi-Pec Engine Management System, tuned by ESP in Queanbeyan -Front-mount Intercooler -Upgraded 040 fuel pump -Upgraded 700cc (approx) injectors -Split-fire coil packs -Heavy duty clutch -Full X-Force exhaust system -Biggest pod filter you have ever seen -Re-shimmed and serviced LSD Diff -Whiteline swaybars front and rear with new knuckles -DBA slotted brake rotors, braided lines and Project-Mu Pads Body has a few scratches consistent with it's age, but I recently had the front and rear bar resprayed. Interior: - Great JVC stereo with new speakers all round and a pro-installed amplifier. Includes bluetooth. - Turbo Timer - New gearshift and handbrake leather boots Servicing: - Timing belt, water pump, idler pulley replaced at 198,000 - Serviced every 5000K's with Castrol Edge 10-60 - Recently serviced gearbox with new fluid -Re-shimmed and serviced LSD Diff - Regularly detailed with Dodo wax products Miscellaneous: - New battery - Really beautiful dark tint - Ice cold air-conditioning Spare set of wheels available aswell.
  14. Two faults with my v36 So I have two faults with my v36 manual coupe and wondering if this is a common thing. One is the clutch sticking to the floor on spirited take off's and the second is axle/driveline shudder or bounce with wheel spin on certain surfaces. The worst of the two is the clutch that I'm pretty sure is a clutch slave cyclinder problem... Again!! When I got the car I found that the clutch felt fine until on the occasions I did a spirited take off with some revs/throttle and "clutch control" (not riding ha ha) for a good take off. The clutch would stick half way to the floor until I either backed off or pulled the pedal back manually. I nursed the clutch from then as occasionally the clutch would slip when this happened. Absolutely no problem with the clutch on normal driving, nor full throttle when the clutch was fully out. Just couldn't give full throttle before the clutch was out. Anyway, so after they changed the clutch fluid, then the master cylinder it came down to the slave cylinder which fixed the problem. Scored a new stock clutch plate out of it as well as the master cylinder which didn't need replacing. Problem is it has now come back after less than 20k. I don't usually abuse the clutch however, with reviews matching on down shifts and usually low revs to take of so not riding the clutch. Thing is I have driven manual for most of my life and neither of my s15 had this problem with the last one close on 200kw at the wheels. Is the v36 slave cylinder really this weak or have I just had bad luck? My take off's aren't that abusive. Just the odd spirited take off I'd expect any performance car to be capable of on occasions. The other problem is the shudder (feels like the old school axle tramp on a live axle car) I get occasionally on minor wheel spin with traction turned off. It doesn't always happen, and it can often happen on minor wheel spin on take off. I've had it in the wet multiple times as well. I've got some decent high performance tyres (pilot sport 4S) but this also happened on the re050a when they were rat sh!t grip near the end of their life. Could this be bush wear or something? I've got stick suspension except I have whiteline adjustable sway bars in it (although it did with the stock sway bars).
  15. When in neutral, i push clutch right in, and give it some revs. 3500-5000rpm it grinds. Even when its in a gear and clutch right in, rev and it grinds. And when driving, changing gears at high revs grinds. If i let revs drop to 2000-3000rpm its no worries. 1993 nissan skyline r33 GTsT. Manual, single turbo. RB25DET.
  16. SLIPERYGECKO

    Hi I’m after a r31 manual conversion kit in Adelaide can anyone help? Cheers ph 0407908059
  17. Hey guys just had a quick question. Recently bought a 2005 manual 350gt. Have noticed a couple things. One was that the seatbelt light stays on in the dash. The other was this morning when I put the car into nuteral it was making some strange noises. Didn't sound good at all. And seemed harder to change gears than yesterday. But then after it warmed up the noise was no longer there and gears got easier. Is this a common problem when the car is cold? Or do you think something may be wrong? Thanks
  18. Need some help with my speed sensor on the RB20DET. I've pretty much figured out where it's located, on top of the transmission, hard to reach without dropping the exhaust. The question is WHERE does it plug into on the harness? I know that the revolution sensor aka speed sensor on the RB20DET in the R32's is supposed to be mechanically driven, though...I've got a shielded cable with a white and red wire coming off of them. Whoever did the motor swap did some wacky wiring and I have no idea where anything goes now. I'm assuming that my speed sensor is electronic then? It's the RE4R01A trans (A/T) so I need anyone with an A/T to give me a hand right now with this. I spent the past several weeks tracking down diagrams for the TCM which are non-existent, diagrams to the transmission plugs (again non-existent) and searched this site up and down and kept getting zero results. The last question would be, IF I maintain the electronic speed sensor on the transmission, how would I wire it up? What plug did anyone use on their RB25 (those are electronic I believe). Obviously any and all help is greatly appreciated.
  19. bakwoods

    Hey guys, need some help trying to figure out what the plug is on my chassis/engine harness next to the ECU, the three engine plugs have a home but there'sone plug on the chassis harness that is missing a home. Anyone with an auto RB20DET if you could reply to this and tell me if you've got it plugged into something. I'll upload a picture tomorrow morning, it's nearly 11pm here and it's too dark to see anything. It'd be nice if it's just an optional plug as my old chassis harness was ripped to shreds and had an R31 ECU hard wired in.
  20. Hey Guys, Wrecking my R34 GTT rb25det NEO 5 Speed manual, in Melbourne south east sub Its a complete car so just ask me if I haven't posted something you want or need. Never thrashed well looked after car. TXT or Call Luke 0413737028 Rb25det NEO engine done 65xxxxkm + loom + nismo tuned ECU $2,500 ono Engine still in the car and running so you can check it out before you buy. Turbo Smart T boost controller boosted to 10psi Tuned at Chequered Tuning 2 Months ago making 206RWKW 5 Speed Gear box done 127xxxxkm $1,500 ono Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch (only done 2000km) $500 ono Interior: Centre console full carbon fibre with 3 Gauge cluster Smoked Auto Gauges $400 ono water temp, oil temp, oil pressure and Boost gauge in a separate cup holder. Carbon Fibre Kick Plates/Door Sill Plates $50 Front seats $150 each Back seat $200 ono Steering wheel $150 ono Door trims with no switches $100 each Exterior: White with Gold glitter pant work Tommy Kaira Full body kit (cracked front bar but reparable) $450 ono Brand new Bomex front bar that just needs spray and fit with brand new never fitted smoked indicators $450 Xenon HID light (one broken clip but has been fixed and sits perfect) $500 smoked side indicators $40 Carbon fibre eyelids $70 Nismo Carbon Fibre Pillar $40 Ray Volk look alike Mat Black Brand new put on only 2 Months ago (no scratches) $1,450 ono 18x8 Front with 235/40 ZR18 Nexen Tyres 2Months old 18x9 Back with 255/35 ZR18 Federal Tyres 2Months old 4X HSD coilovers G/C Ride well $500 Fiberglass R34 GTR wing (Black) $200 Rear tail lights $150 Performance: R32 GTR brakes $450 ono Aluminium Radiator $150 ono FMIC 300x600 with custom piping so no holes need to be made in chassey (legal) $450 R33 GTR Turbo back 3" exhaust has some corrosion but repairable $250 ono Heaps more just ask TXT or Call Luke 0413737028 if anyone needs specific photos let me know
  21. Hi all, Time to get things rolling. Looking to buy a GTT soon, so here's my criteria. Show me your car if you're willing to sell! 1. Budget of 14k - cannot stretch much further 2. Black, red or yellow I don't mind - if you have white or silver then you're welcome to save us both some time and don't need to offer. 3. Manual 4. Coupe 5. If possible, nismo kit. 6. Lightly modded (BOV, air filter, exhaust) or stock is preferable - no major engine mods wanted. And last of all, I'm in Sydney, NSW but am willing to travel to ACT/VIC if I must (but this may be a lot more hassle than necessary - but for the right car I'm sure it'll be worth it) PM me if you have something that suits me!
  22. Looking for a manual non turbo manual r34 skyline, preferably in NSW but would be willing to travel out of state for the right car. Have cash already just looking for the right car.
  23. Have a brand new GKTech Short Shifter for sale for a SR20 gearbox Suits SR20 5 Speed, s14, 180sx, Silvia More details here http://www.frsport.com/GKTech-SR20-5-Speed-Short-Shifter--_p_74399.html After $130 ono Located Sydney (can ship anywhere in Australia)
  24. I'm looking for a possibility to get hold of a copy of the R33 Chassis Manual from jpnz.co.nz, as stated. I would be more then willing to for a digital copy. Hit me up if you could help me.
  25. V35 VQ25DD manual trans swap So I'm new to here, and I hope people still monitor this forum. I am posting for a buddy. He just partially swapped the 25DD to manual 6 speed (from the 350z). After the swap, he is having crazy ABS problems. He will be driving, then all the sudden the ABS will kick in out of the blue and the breaks pulsate as if you are depressing the brakes even though your not. He took he ABS fuse and removed the two slated in the engine bay as for the abs. Problem still exists. This happens at random times and if you stop and shut off the car, it will reset. Btw, this was the same issue we saw on a VQ35 on a manual way, but the ECU in the 35 was less straight forward, and it was assumed the problem resided in one of the couple ECUs on the VQ35. If you know someone who did a 25 manual trans conversion, or know the answer please help me