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Found 179 results

  1. Hey guys, been trawling through every forum trying to find diagrams and pictures to help with wiring an auto to manual conversion for my R34 GTT. Have done everything apart from wiring. I have read a thread but had no pictures. Think I've done all the gearbox wiring correctly, however, struggling to find the inhibitor switch. Anyone who's done this should be able to help me? Some are saying inhibitor switch is by the fuse box but still unsure? Thanks in advance.
  2. If anyone needs the complete english Workshop manual for this engine i have it and am happy to share it with you, in pdf form. Cooling system https://ufile.io/7b31q Engine control https://ufile.io/ltv1r Engine Mechanical https://ufile.io/8ygvm Exhaust https://ufile.io/fny97 Lubrication https://ufile.io/ao98k Starting system https://ufile.io/znhl7 says it will expire in 30days let me know if you need it reuploaded. please keep it on the dl as not sure about the legalities behind sharing it.
  3. SkyLine_Tyson

    Hi my name is Tyson I want to ask a few questions about manual to auto swaps. So I am planing on buying a series 1 r33 that is manual turbo. Since I am on my p’s I have a series 2 r33 that really clean but it’s auto (N/A) and wanted to know if it would possible to just swap the auto from my series 2 to the series 1 am i able to switch the looms for both cars. or are the transmission looms to different between series 1 and 2?
  4. Looking to buy a non turbo p plate legal R34 skyline coupe. Preferably white or bayside blue. Must be manual and a series 1 (1998-1999). email/pm me to contact me.
  5. Tastagea

    so i need to remove the radiator from my 250t rs four which has been converted into a 6 speed manual out of a 350z. it is still using the stock radiator so it has lines going into the radiator for cooling the transmission from when it was an auto. So, are the transmission lines connected at the bottom to the two brass fittings? (photo attached for reference) these have nothing attached to them so i am not sure what they are for, other than that. i think i may be mistaking the transmission fluid lines for something else as the lines I want to remove are on the passengers side of the radiator and coming off the side of it. this photo shows the lines i need to remove. Any help would be appreciated. cheers
  6. Hey guys I would like to get a manual conversion for a r31 or even a cheap manual car. Located in melbs Cheers from joel
  7. Full ad: http://bit.ly/4doorad – Photos: http://bit.ly/4doorpics ^^^ If viewing on the SAU app please tap the image and select View in Gallery Note: This is a replacement thread for the original EOI: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469494-eoi-the-ultimate-r34-family-hybrid-for-street-and-track-275rwkw/ ... Asking $19,500 with some exclusions, please see the full ad. PM for further details.
  8. Hi guys/gals! I'm trying to figure out a strange sound coming from my Skyline. Every so often, say, once every 3 or 4 times I reverse out of my garage, I hear an awful sound coming from under the car. I equate it to a slipping belt, but a lower tone. It sticks around for maybe 10 seconds, and goes away. No issues driving as of yet, no clicking/grinding. It's just a loud howl and I want to address it before it gets worse. Has anyone had this issue by chance? I was asking some friends local to me and they figure throw out bearing is failing. Ideas? Car is a '93 GTSt coupe with 165k K's on it.
  9. Just need someone or few people to give me a hand to convert my r34 sedan auto to manual All parts supplied Can $$ for work
  10. Hello guys, I picked up a nice little 2003 350GT-8 with a buggered CVT gearbox, I fitted a secondhand CVT gearbox but was unable to rectify the faults. After about 1 year of spending time trying to find the faults, I decided I would make the leap and convert the sedan to a 6MT from a 350Z. Please try and refrain from writing things like "WHY DIDNT YOU JUST BUY A MANUAL TO START WITH" etc etc. I don't care. The car cost me $1500 licensed and all, and 2k for the conversion. Still cheaper than buying a 350 6MT. This post will contain as many photos as possible as I progress through the build. This will be continually updated as I complete the stages. I have never been able to find out about mounting the handbrake lever, or the legalities on cutting the transmission tunnel out to fit the gearbox. I hope to provide some light on these matters for the next person to take on the conversion project. Removed CVT and threw it in the skip bin. Best feeling of my life. GOOD RIDDANCE. Removed the following; Carpet (needed a clean anyway) Front and rear seats Center console HVAC and anything in my way Witing harness Airbag module, Gyro & Traction control module. (NOTE ANYTHING WITH YELLOW PLUGS IS SRS AIRBAGS, MAKE SURE BATTERY UNPLUGGED ALSO DO NOT FLIP OVER THE SRS MODULE FROM UNDER THE CONSOLE, IF YOUR BATTERY IS CONNECTED OR IT HAS CHARGE IT WILL SET OFF YOUR AIRBAGS. IVE SEEN IT DONE. VERY DANGEROUS.) Brackets and really anything you see is going to slow you down. Mock fitted the console and handbrake assembly to see the alignment. Measured gearbox to the tunnel. Pictures of the handbrake assembly and how it DOES NOT match anything on the original tunnel, I guess you could make up a few brackets and cut some holes but that is dodgy and I want this thing to be as good as factory when I am done. I have a manual tunnel from a 350Z, I have decided to remove the inner skin that has the moulding for the manual trans and the handbrake that I require. Once done will be as simple as bolting it all onto the new inner skin as per factory. I was able to drill out the spot welds with a Spot weld cutter available for $20 its like a little hole saw. I have a qualified boilermaker / engineer on hand to weld the skin into the cars existing tunnel. There are A LOT of little spot welds not marked with arrows, the arrows are just pointing out a few of the ones I started to cut out. More photos and info to come! Thanks
  11. R34GTT up for sale. Have been driving this one as my daily for the last 4 years without a single hiccup, and only selling as its time to get a new toy. Has some typical stone chips in front bumper i never got around to fixing, but overall pretty nice considering the age of the vehicle. Always ran on 98 fuel, and never boosted over 12psi. Last tune it came in at 270hp at 10psi. List of mods etc below. Alpine bluetooth deck / 6' speakers SPITFIRE coil packs, HKS Front mount intercooler, HKS 15psi wastegate actuator, HKS ssqv blow off valve, GREDDY/TRUST Arnix pod filter with custom stainless intake pipe, Custom exhaust system (3"down pipe, high flow cat, 3.5" cat back), EXEDY heavy duty ceramic button clutch with machined flywheel, PORCHE BREMBO front 4 pot brake calipers and rotors, Cwest earth grounding kit, Only filled with 98 octane New battery BLITZ SBC i-D electronic boost controler, BLITZ power meter i-D, Auto watch alarm system with interior and exterior sensors, Project Mu pedals, Genuine Nissan skyline floor mats. Full Bomex bodykit fitted NISMO carbon fibre pillars, Ganador side mirrors, Cwest wing (easily removable), Factory sunroof - working perfectly, Factory xenon hid headlights Black racing pro N1 Japanese wheels (front 17x8 31 & rear 17x9 38), Nismo Circuit Link Pro Ultimate Set (suspension control arms, caster rods etc), HKS hypermax drag coilovers, Factory strut brace and cusco rear strut brace. It comes with papers for full history since import including every receipt and documents since landing in Australia! It is clean inside and out and drives beautifully. reasonable offers will be considered but low ball offers will be ignored. All test drives will be performed by me until genuine offer is given (I am sure you can understand why with a performance vehicle) Selling for $17500 neg. Contact: Aaron. 0402155000 trippdoll@hotmail.com
  12. Nissan Skyline R34 GTT 2.5l Turbo Manual Coupe (Winton tow photo was from the end of the life of the previous motor <3 ) Year 2000 165xxx kmsEngine 80xxx kmsEngine -Stock rb25det neoNew oem coilpacksNew spark plugs (bkr6es)Stock turbo boostedTurbosmart boost teeZ32 Airflow Meter (genuine) - recently replacedNistune ECU tuned by RM performance in ringwood. 170rwkw at stock boostWalbro 460 fuel pumpFull turboback exhaust from Japan. Very quiet around town until you get to high revsAll new filtersBlitz front mount intercoolerNew power steering rackRecent replaced starter motorBodyQM1 WhiteFactory nismo altia front bumperFactory nismo altia rear bumperFactory nismo altia side skirtsGenuine r34 GTR spoiler (adjustable)Bluetooth head unit with aux etcExtra speaker for hands freeRare factory Nissan floor matsConcave concept cc03r wheels 18*9/ 18*10Yokohama advan A048 tyresFull slideworx adjustable arms availableSlideworx front coiloversZeal function rear coiloversRuns and drives beautifullyHas 9 months VIC rego
  13. Hey guys, Thought I'd drop an update on the 6MT swap on my 2002 350gt-8.. On Saturday I dropped the diff, driveshaft & CVT with the help of a friend & only nearly killed him once with the cvt falling off the jack hahaha. Got it done in about 2.5-3hrs with a few hours prep I did the weekend before. Prep like drop exhaust, remove most of the bellhousing bolts, CVT clutch lines, loosen what driveshaft bolts I could etc. The most difficult parts were the little things really, remove this to get to that etc. Going through the CVT inspection plate to remove the X (I forgot what its called- between flywheel/torque convertor) otherwise the torque converter will still be attached and fighting the removal of the gearbox. Removed started motor, cable tied it aside to spin and wedge the X to get to the bolts through the inspection plate. Also removed the CVT dipstick & a loom bracket to get bellhousing bolts off from the top inside engine bay. Didn't have to touch the interior just left it in neutral to rotate driveshaft, disconnected gear linkage, was a peice of cake actually. I have a question though.. I sourced a CD001 6MT through this forum like at least 3 years ago for 1k before I knew of the difference. Is it possible to rebuild a CD001 so it has synchros like a CD009 or at least strengthen it?? also I've watched a bunch of youtube vids and I'm getting the impression that it's better to weld an open diff over a VLSD. Can anyone explain why this is please? Also have a 2003 350z VLSD I'm installing along with Whitline bushings essentials kit. Will measure up the driveshaft when 6MT & diff are installed. Next up is to prep the Z1 clutch for install, remove auto flywheel, rear main seal if required etc, solid bushings, interior prep, prep 6MT crossmember, install 6MT, short shifter etc, handbrake relocation(the cable is already right where it needs to be running through the tranny tunnel), clutch/brake pedal install then once that's all done scratching my head for a day maybe dealing with electronics hehe.. Just goto bridge the neutral safety switch and figure out reverse lights I think.. I'm going by this thread below mainly. But didnt even look at it when getting into the job, basically just unbolt remove whats in the way and drop whats needed. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/552038-5at-to-6mt-swap-info-diy-guide-thread.html Yes I'm more than likely forgetting a lot, but it's pretty straight forward. Having my mechanic friend there for really helped figuring out the inspection plate X removal & with tips for getting more leverage/using the car to our advantage. Like loosening the axel shaft bolts with the 2nd spanner pinned up against the sway bar, removing the the driveshaft still attached to the diff as we didnt have the 8mm allen key tool required for the diff side driveshaft. ALL THIS WAS DONE ON WITH THE CAR ON JACK STANDS WITH BASIC TOOLS BTW...I'm waiting on an order from the USA- 'Never Ending Details'. DO NOT USE THIS COMPANY. They f**king suck. Barely any communication, Took ages to ship (nearly 2 months) and that's with me threatening them with a VISA dispute. Anyways just thought I'd add my experience with them. Pretty much follows the multiple bad reviews I've read online, same shit. The order was for flywheel/pressure plate bolts/various peices as it was a lot cheaper than going through Nissan (eg $17.50 VS ~$2 for 1x OEM flywheel bolt) I'm stoked the hard part is pretty much over. More room for activities now hehehe. BTW, the goal for this car is to make it into a nice street/semi drift capable car, with strut bracing/chassis reinforcement, coilovers, camber/angle mods & maybe a plenum spacer/intake being on the cards. Already has a mean sounding full borla exhaust & headers from the previous owner + ditch the wack bob jane special rims for some lightweight Rays TE37's. This car has been sitting for 3-4 years so I'm feeling really accomplished and excited to get her on the road again I will try to keep you guys updated. Cheers, Seb
  14. Hey fellas, so recently purchased a 92 gtst rolling shell and it seem as tho it has an auto dash, it has had an SR and an RB25 in it before has modplates and was last registered with a sr20 in it, so my problem is will i run into any problems when i go too put a RB25 in it? is there anything that can be dodgy about auto conversions that i should check on or is there anyway i can tell if has been? can post pics if need be,Cheers.
  15. Neat and tidy Sonic Silver, 1996, Series 2, Manual, 4 Door Skyline with a genuine 273 RWKW. (Northern NSW) (Some may recognise this vehicle from these forums) This car is an excellent example and it has been a joy to own. Very reliable Canberra Car imported locally in 2002. 210,000Kms. Just moved to the Northern Rivers Area (Lismore, Lennox Heads-Alstonville) which is where it is now. Great condition for it's age, and always serviced every 5000kms with quality products. Perfect for those who want an import while keeping the missus happy with doors for kids and groceries. Mature owner. Modifications are: -Genuine Garrett 3071 Turbo with braided lines and aluminum intake pipe. -Vi-Pec Engine Management System, tuned by ESP in Queanbeyan -Front-mount Intercooler -Upgraded 040 fuel pump -Upgraded 700cc (approx) injectors -Split-fire coil packs -Heavy duty clutch -Full X-Force exhaust system -Biggest pod filter you have ever seen -Re-shimmed and serviced LSD Diff -Whiteline swaybars front and rear with new knuckles -DBA slotted brake rotors, braided lines and Project-Mu Pads Body has a few scratches consistent with it's age, but I recently had the front and rear bar resprayed. Interior: - Great JVC stereo with new speakers all round and a pro-installed amplifier. Includes bluetooth. - Turbo Timer - New gearshift and handbrake leather boots Servicing: - Timing belt, water pump, idler pulley replaced at 198,000 - Serviced every 5000K's with Castrol Edge 10-60 - Recently serviced gearbox with new fluid -Re-shimmed and serviced LSD Diff - Regularly detailed with Dodo wax products Miscellaneous: - New battery - Really beautiful dark tint - Ice cold air-conditioning Spare set of wheels available aswell.
  16. Two faults with my v36 So I have two faults with my v36 manual coupe and wondering if this is a common thing. One is the clutch sticking to the floor on spirited take off's and the second is axle/driveline shudder or bounce with wheel spin on certain surfaces. The worst of the two is the clutch that I'm pretty sure is a clutch slave cyclinder problem... Again!! When I got the car I found that the clutch felt fine until on the occasions I did a spirited take off with some revs/throttle and "clutch control" (not riding ha ha) for a good take off. The clutch would stick half way to the floor until I either backed off or pulled the pedal back manually. I nursed the clutch from then as occasionally the clutch would slip when this happened. Absolutely no problem with the clutch on normal driving, nor full throttle when the clutch was fully out. Just couldn't give full throttle before the clutch was out. Anyway, so after they changed the clutch fluid, then the master cylinder it came down to the slave cylinder which fixed the problem. Scored a new stock clutch plate out of it as well as the master cylinder which didn't need replacing. Problem is it has now come back after less than 20k. I don't usually abuse the clutch however, with reviews matching on down shifts and usually low revs to take of so not riding the clutch. Thing is I have driven manual for most of my life and neither of my s15 had this problem with the last one close on 200kw at the wheels. Is the v36 slave cylinder really this weak or have I just had bad luck? My take off's aren't that abusive. Just the odd spirited take off I'd expect any performance car to be capable of on occasions. The other problem is the shudder (feels like the old school axle tramp on a live axle car) I get occasionally on minor wheel spin with traction turned off. It doesn't always happen, and it can often happen on minor wheel spin on take off. I've had it in the wet multiple times as well. I've got some decent high performance tyres (pilot sport 4S) but this also happened on the re050a when they were rat sh!t grip near the end of their life. Could this be bush wear or something? I've got stick suspension except I have whiteline adjustable sway bars in it (although it did with the stock sway bars).
  17. When in neutral, i push clutch right in, and give it some revs. 3500-5000rpm it grinds. Even when its in a gear and clutch right in, rev and it grinds. And when driving, changing gears at high revs grinds. If i let revs drop to 2000-3000rpm its no worries. 1993 nissan skyline r33 GTsT. Manual, single turbo. RB25DET.
  18. Nissan Skyline V35 2004 Premium 70th Anniversary edition - $16,500.00 3,500cc engine 6 speed manual Silver 55,000km ABS brakes Multiple airbags Active headrest Traction control Rare factory sunroof Full cream leather interior Power seats Heated front seats BOSE sound system Brembo brakes Manarays 18 inch wheels Nismo exhaust Infiniti rear badge Factory option front lip spoiler Factory option rear wing Viper 5906 2-way led color security with remote start Passive keyless entry Push button start 5 channel amplifier 7 inch touch screen stereo with GPS and rear camera Only premium fuel used in the car Car is in excellent condition , it was imported from Japan in 2013 and it has been lady driven for the past two years. You will not find another V35 optioned the way this one is in Australia. We need a larger car so we need to sell the coupe Sold with registration good till June 2016 Reasonable offers will be considered. This is one of the nicest optioned V35's in Australia, if you are after a manual V35 Skyline this is the one you for you. Contact details: Randy M: 0431 989 522 E: randykydd@hotmail.com
  19. Looking for a manual non turbo manual r34 skyline, preferably in NSW but would be willing to travel out of state for the right car. Have cash already just looking for the right car.
  20. Regrettably for sale is my 2013 Toyota 86 GTS. I have owned the car since new and it has been an absolute joy owning and driving the car. Car was purchased from NorthPoint Toyota Hillcrest on North East Road in March 2013 and has never had any issues.The 86 was purchased with the colour Pegasus White (Pearl White) which looks absolutely stunning from any angle, especially when in the sun. Other options that were purchased from the dealer, when new, are: - Tinted windows at 35% all round (lowest legal tint), which have a life-time warranty. - Ceramic paint protection, which includes a 20 year warranty against paint bubbling, fading or discolouration. - 3 Year/150,000km Extended Factory Warranty, the car still has 1 year left of its original warranty and once that is complete the extended factory warranty starts and goes for another 3 years or up until 150,000km The car is always serviced on time at the dealer and also had its oil changed at the 1000km inspection service, which was requested by me, as I believe all new engines should have their oil changed at this time due to metal shavings in the oil from wear on new engines. Also at the 1000km engine oil change a magnetic sump plug was fitted to collect and hold any fine metal filings/fragments from the wear of the new engine. The car has only travelled 11,500km, most of which have been highway/freeway kms and easily gets 500km to a tank of fuel. More kms could be obtained from a tank of fuel if driven very lightly. Only BP Ultimate 98 octane fuel has ever been used since day 1. Car has always been taken care of and washed regularly as I treat all my cars like a baby. During my ownership of the 86 I have added a few aftermarket accessories to give the car that extra edge it was missing from factory. The following are the aftermarket accessories fitted to the car: - Invidia N1 Titanium Tipped 2.5" cat-back exhaust (Gives a great note with out being stupidly loud) - Apexi Hi-Flow panel air filter - Grazio & Co matte black Toyota emblem badges - Subaru BRZ side fender garnish/vent - Beatsonic shark-fin antenna (colour coded - Pegasus White) - TOM's clear L.E.D taillights - TRD petrol filler cap - TRD oil filler cap (made from billet steel) - TRD radiator cap - TRD green sound tube - Cusco carbon fibre front strut tower brace bar, with brake master cylinder stopper - Beatrush rear strut tower brace bar (does not need cutting of carpet like other brands do) - Phillips 6000K HID headlight globes (gives a whiter, brighter light) - L.E.D front fog lamps - L.E.D number plate lights - L.E.D reverse lights - 86 steering wheel badge - Greddy magnetic sump plug The above accessories really give the car a unique look and it gets looks everywhere it goes, while the exhaust and strut brace bars really make the car sound and perform much better than factory. I also have a few parts which haven't been put on the car as I haven't had time to do, these parts will be go with the car if sold for the right price: - Centre console arm rest mould (just needs to have leather or alacantra applied to it and its ready to go) - Navigation & Phone lock bypass (Allows driver to use the navigation & phone while driving instead of needing to be stopped) - Clear front and side/fendor indicator globes - Couple black interior bits (was planning on changing silver interior bits to black and carbon fibre parts but never got around to doing it) Also have original parts such as the exhaust, taillights (quite expensive items), antenna etc etc, which can go with the new owner if they want them. Car is priced at $35,000. I am slightly negotiable but please don't bother offering ridiculous offers, I am in no rush to sell this beautiful car. **Please Note** car will not be sold with premuim XX number plates. Standard issue plates will be fitted to the car prior to sale. Feel free to call, sms or email me and inspections are welcomed. Please contact Vince on - Mobile: 0432183021 Carsales ad link: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Toyota-86-2013/SSE-AD-3192602/?Cr=11&sdmvc=1
  21. Hi all, Up for sale is my 1993 Nissan Skyline R32 GTST Sedan ⁄ 4 Door. It is a 5 speed manual (converted), Registered until November 2015, Will be sold WITH a Roadworthy Certificate (can be sold without) There's 24x xxx km on the odometer Modifications include: 2860 'disco potato' turbo 3" turbo back⁄full exhaust Turnflow intercooler kit ( NO HOLES IN BATTERY TRAY) HICAS completely removed Immobiliser Car is stock otherwise, unmolested example. NO rust, stock airbox, stock suspension. Factory side skirts and rear pod. Paint on this 22 year old car is in very good condition for the most part, front end, side skirts and rear bar could do with a respray. Undamaged dash, no bubbes, cracks, etc. Steering wheel could do with a cover. Interior is quite clean otherwise. Car is in very good nick for a 22 year old car. Take a look at the photos, inspect and see for yourself. It has been a great daily. Selling due to having too many cars and recently being made redundant. No urgency to sell so only reasonable offers will be considered. Located in Melbourne, south east. I am after $7,990 ONO. NO swaps. Thanks, Adam
  22. HKS034

    We are all apart of this forum because we (in some way or another) appreciate and admire Skylines. This is just a short insight into my Skyline world. My first love for Skylines started after i watched the Silver R34 GTR (Driven by Paul Walker) in 2 Fast 2 Furious (the sound captivated me). I remember watching that movie and for years researching and craving to own one. I bought my first skyline at 17 (1998 Black R34 GT manual). I had intentions to make it the fastest n/a r34, but my research suggested it was a ridiculous cost and resale value would not be that great. A few years passed and the GT was left relatively stock and i moved onto a beautifully maintained 1999 R34 GT-T (Black again) with 71,000km/s on the clock and that bloody Turbo bug got me good! I am now 24 and in the constant struggle of trying not to mod the car with every dollar i earn. Currently- FMIC, boxed POD filter (due to intercooler piping), 18" F-Zero Challenge Rims (exterior sprayed black, HKS gauges, Full Alpine Type-R sound system and a bleed valve. Running 9psi currently. Leaving all relatively stock. She gets hand washed every week and is meticulously maintained. My wife actually thought i took better care of the car then most other things haha. Anyways, i have had the non-turbo and currently own a GT-T so now, the long wait of hopefully (2-4 years) to save for my beautiful R34 GTR M'spec NUR or V-Spec II Nur. Thanks all, Glad to be here!
  23. Hey guys, basically I'm trying to help my friend sell his car. Pretty much as it says in the title. It's a very clean manual example of a v35 with the nismo bodykit + rear wing (shown in pictures). The wheels look pretty good too. I don't know what they are exactly (if someone knows, please let me know thanks! ). Pioneer double din head unit. It has always been garaged. He's selling it because he simply just doesn't have the time to drive it anymore, so it's just been sitting there. 58,300 kms. His asking price is $23,000. Pm me if you want his number or if you want any additional info on the car!
  24. Regretfully selling my 1990 Nissan S13 Silvia as I'm moving overseas. This is the K's model with all optional extras and some light modification. This is a manual CA18DET model with 150,000km on the clock with motor still running strong. Rego until Aug 2014, but selling without RWC (won't be hard, had RWC approved 12 months ago) Factory features: ABS, LSD, Sunroof, Leather seats (I have never seen these on another S13 before), Glove compartment cooler box (another rare extra), WORKING airconditioning (omg!!), Remote central locking with alarm. Mods (off the top of my head): T28 turbo Bleed valve K&N air filter Front-mount intercooler Performance coil pack 3 inch catback exhaust Bosch 040 fuel pump with Z32 fuel filter Tein Super Street Coilovers front and rear with cambertops 17 inch Advanti Racing wheels (not sure of the specs.. 17x6 maybe?) SAAS boost and oil pressure guages (not installed) Also selling with some other bits and pieces including a second boot lid with stock spoiler and 3rd breaklight (to pass RWC) This isn't the cleanest S13 you'll ever see, but it's a damn good car throughout. It has some great features that are rare, as well as some good, tasteful mods already on to get you started. I had so many plans for this car that I'm unable to follow through with because I'm moving to Japan and unable to keep it sitting around for years. With the right care, this car will without a doubt hold it's value or even increase in value as more S13s are stripped and thrashed into track cars or wrapped around poles. Asking $6,000 ono. Low-ballers will be ignored. Reasonable offers will be considered. Located in St Kilda. Come check it out, and no time wasters as this will definitely sell. Call me or text 0-4-3-0- 0-2-6- 6-0-3
  25. Nissan Stagea RS4S, The harder to find, Factory manual version, of the monster hauler RB25det powered AWD super wagon. I am the first owner since it was imported into Australia, via an import yard in QLD and have kept the car close to stock, with minor, easily reversible (if needed) modifications. odo: 97072km I have owned the car for just under a year and so far has only had one minor problem with a failed starter, which was replaced so is now fixed. Apart from that it hasn't missed a beat and has been a blast to own and drive. The car was last serviced at 'Racepace Motorsport' in Bayswater and was given a clean bill of health. It is coming up to being due for it's next service and being close to 100,000kms is probably due for a major service. The car will also need new brake pads as it currently sits. Car has done 97000 km's and is in great condition. Interior has a few small scratches on the door cards but nothing major. Exterior wise, the paint is good. Has a few small scratches on the sideskirts but nothing mojor. Worst part of the exterior is a decent scratch on the front left of the front bumper (picture of the damage is in the pics provided) I replaced the OE rear wing with a Dayz edition rear spoiler as well as adding a dayz edition rear lip. Both the stock rear spoiler and stock rear bumper will be provided with the car. Rear window tint is the Factory option, as is the dual sunroof and triple gauge cluster (currently the torque split gauge isn't working, but the boost and volts gauge works fine, I think due to a temperamental connection block behind the gauge cluster) Another thing to point out is the sag in the drivers side suspension. Currently the car sits a bit lop sided with the drivers side slanting down compared to the passenger side. Although, I will be providing a replacement, 2nd hand full set of stock shocks and springs (i only acquired recently and never had a chance to install) Aftermarket mods include: - Coolingpro FMIC - Apexi pod filter - Cusco Brake master cylinder stopper - Recaro SR3 drivers seat - Blitz NUR spec axle back exhaust (not loud at all, but gives a nice not) - Nismo leather shift knob - Dayz rear skirt extension - Dayz rear spoiler - Apexi Boost Guage - Electronic Turbo timer - Blitz Dual SBC electronic boost controller - Mines ECU - Enkei RPF1 18x9.5 et15 all round - Kuhmo Ectsa Le Sport 255/40/18 tires (85% tread) - Custom Radiator air diversion plate - Kenwood tape deck - Alpine Type S speakers front and rear I will provide with the sale: - stock FMIC - stock rear bumper - stock rear wing - stock gear knob - stock air intake and box - Stock engine cover Un-fortuneately I do NOT have the stock drivers seat or stock axle back exhaust which may need to be changed depending on wear you get your RWC done. Apart from those few items I can't see there being a problem getting a RWC. Reason for sale is I just purchased a cheaper daily runaround and there is no reason for me to keep this car. I needed a bit more economical car that was a bit cheaper on insurance/maintenance etc hence stepping down to a more boring daily driver. I payed $14k for this less than a year ago but the 10500 price is negotiable. All offers will be considered but obviously low ballers/joy riders/time wasters will be ignored. Comes with receipts for servicing/modifications in my time of ownership and all import papers. Does not come with it's Japanese service history (was never provided...) RWC not provided at this time, but should pass no worries. Price is: $10500 ono contact: 0413220185 email: dny_all@yahoo.com.au