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About bakwoods

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    Rank: RB20DET

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    '90 Skyline/'04 G35/'14 Rogue
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  1. Not to thread jack, but if you have a chance can you take a snapshot of what the transmission harness looks like up close. Trying to track one down for my build and haven't had any luck. About this close to saying screw the auto GTT and swap in a 5 speed but then I'd have to deal with all the additional parts I need. GLW the build though.
  2. Running into a bit of an issue. R34 GTT auto trans has a speed sensor at the back, little 2 pin plug, assuming it's speed sensor 2 however the current trans harness doesn't plug into it. So assuming that either my harness is wrong or someone swapped out the sensor with a different one? Either way anyone have any ideas on what to do in this case? Is there a suitable replacement to speed sensor 2 or do I even need it?!
  3. bakwoods

    Update: the physical swap is done. There's still a lot of headache now with deciphering what plugs go where since I took it a step further and swapped the R34 chassis harness into place as well.
  4. Anyone have a lead on what wires on the R32 fuel pump plug are what. The R32 fuel pump plug is a 6 pole 5 wire plug whereas the R34...well that's just it, I don't know. Backstory, I gutted my R32 chassis and engine harnesses and ran an R34 chassis harness with the intention of running the fuel pump on the R34 connections, low and behold someone snipped the connectors to the fuel pump so now I'm stuck with my dick in my hand trying to sort out what's what. The chassis harness came out of a 4 door GTT, I'm anticipating the R34 dash, instrument cluster and other parts to arrive shortly so I can start doing the swap. My plan (assuming that I'm correct) is to just pop out wires and repin the blue R32 fuel pump plug. From what I am guessing, the R34 fuel pump has two plugs that go to it, a 2 pin and a 4 pin. I could be entirely wrong. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find any pictures close up of anyone's R34 fuel pump assembly with the wires. Even so there's still a few plugs missing on the harness that I need to sort out. Anyone with an R34 could be really helpful right now to decipher what's what.
  5. bakwoods

    Located in New York, there's no shops within a 150 miles radius of where I live that will touch the car since it's nothing they've ever seen. Unfortunately when there's no one willing to touch it, you're stuck on your own. To add insult, I don't have any friends who are gear heads so that doesn't help. Yeah the physical swap isn't bad, I've got a cherry picker ready to go but yeah the wiring aspect is the hardest since there's really very little information out there on how to do it. A lot of the threads posted have pictures that aren't functional (no longer hosted) so the descriptions aren't very helpful. Given that I'm doing a NEO swap with full chassis harness it should be plug and play, but even now, the harness I got out of a Stagea NEO doesn't work on the R34 GTT engine I pulled. No idea why, but the plugs are different which means i just wasted money. Either way, not having access to resources in the states makes this job a lot harder and not having straight answers where to find diagrams of what I need doesn't make it any easier.
  6. bakwoods

    For that very reason, its a forum. The basis is to help the community not ignore requests. Idiots.
  7. bakwoods

    That's the problem, there is no information that can be traced back to either a DIY, any form of a tutorial or even a list of Q&A's regarding the challenges involved in the swap. It's like "screw you, you're on your own." I never said anyone was obliged, but as a forum, you'd anticipate that people are willing to help each other out, not brush off anyone with a legitimate question. It's no surprise that no one can get their questions answered, dicks like you.
  8. bakwoods

    Anyone?! I need this kind of information right now
  9. bakwoods

    Tried to get advice from this Simon guy and instead was met with "you're better off going to a professional than trying to get help off the net." Such great advice from someone who's done the swap himself but can't be bothered to help others.
  10. Sorry to revive an old thread but seeing as to how no one can accurately answer this, will the cross member from an R32 auto bolt up with an R34 auto trans?
  11. bakwoods

    Well the car is at my buddy's shop to get the FMIC installed, there was no way to piece together that awful CX Racing kit. I have no idea what they sent me but their customer service is terrible. (deep breath) Obviously this isn't a thread to bash another vender on, just venting. On the plus side with the new engine and chassis harness installed (and assuming I wired up the A/T harness correctly) it should fire up and run. If not, I'm in trouble. I did manage to score a good deal on a NEO motor with 55K approximately with an A/T. That being said, has anyone done of these swaps? Namely motor and trans into the R32 chassis? So far most people have done the motor swap, but the transmission aspect of it no one has really talked about it anywhere. Am I the only one? I have tried searching all over and have yet to find any information via Google or any other forum outlining the do's and don'ts. Hoping someone on here can be of some assistance and guide me through. I was thinking for the sake of ease just to yank a chassis harness out of a Stagea and run that in the R32 body. Obviously I'd have to custom fit some stuff like the cluster but I also considered just investing in the Stagea cluster and mounting that into place. The climate control will be gone so i can make room for gauges. I just hope that the mounting won't be an issue.
  12. That's the whole thing, is the ports are smaller than 1/8 NPT, I don't know how, assuming it's because I followed someone's advise and bought the crap Plazmaman knock off manifold which I now regret since I'll have to literally take to the parts store and test fit a bunch of a threaded barbed fittings. The problem is that there's 5 ports (1 for brake booster which is an unknown size and thread pitch) and 4 smaller ones on the underside (only 1 is 1/8 NPT the rest are smaller than that). I'm just trying find a DIY link, diagram of the vacuum and coolant lines and just generally make some sense of this. I am still yet to install the FMIC and even so haven't had any luck with piping. In fact I ended up wasting $350 on piping from CX racing that doesn't fit the FFP. Unfortunately the majority of the links I find are either dead ends because the pictures are dead (not hosted anymore) or the SAU site re-routes me and gives me sponsored Google ads.
  13. Thanks, unfortunately there's no DIY links anywhere that I can find that say what sizes I need for the manifold. Normally im a voracious reader and hunt information down easily, though here the SAU search button gives me zero results within the forum and 10 pages of Google sponsored ads when I search again. Am in for doing something wrong?
  14. 5 ports. Total, one large one on back end closest to the brake booster and 4 on underside which I'm sure are for fuel line and a vacuum gauge. Other two I don't know. The issue I'm having is any time I do a search via the SAU site I get crap Google results but no actual tutorials. The site redirects me to Google results only
  15. Got myself an FFP recently, all good and great, took off the lower runners so that I could clean them up, get rid of the 27+ years of road grime and stuff off of it. Ran into the issue of the there being 5 vacuum lines which I cannot identify nor can I find fittings for. I've done countless searches via Google and I can't find anyone who's done a DIY on how to install this dumb thing. Am I missing something?! Even the search bar on this site spits out Google links but never lists anything on the forum. I've got the manifold bolted correctly to the lower runners now, however I don't have the dimensions of what the 5 vacuum ports are. The one at the top side I'm assuming it's going to hook up to brake booster? Check valve? Then there's 4 on the bottom side, again no dimensions to speak of anywhere. I tried fitting with 1/8 npt and those are too big. That's the smallest size I could find at the parts store.