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Found 64 results

  1. So, ive got a v35 2003 that has a rear sports muffler and HFC's with the rest stock. It sounds decent but is a bit quiet as higher revs like 4-6k or probs quite in general. Ive tried doing a res delete and it sounded tinny so i put it back on and i know the front muffler delete will do the same thing. Is there any other options to make this beast louder? And secondly, im getting around 380-400kms on 1 tank of fuel. So either my needle is off on the fuel gauge or there's something wrong. Is this a common thing?
  2. HKS 1000cc injectors, working perfectly and only removed due to fuel system upgrade. $500 ono
  3. Howdy, long story short, I took my car for a 10 minute drive up the road and back. After not driving it for about 3 - 4 hours i decided to move it BUT when I went to crank it the fuel pump didn’t prime it made a humming noise but wasent priming. I checked fuses, ground and still no luck. Next I replaced fuel pump and fuel relay and got a electrician to do it so it’s not dodgy. The fuel pump did the same thing as the last one hummed but didn’t prime and now it isn’t even humming? What should I try next cheers
  4. Broken Fuel Rail Bolt - Help Me, I'm F**ked! Hey SAU. So as part of my ever running saga of crap I have to deal with on my R33, some of you may know from my build thread that I broke one of the 3 fuel rail bolts. This likely happened from me over-tightening then a few jolts from some spirited tuning runs was enough to vibrate the head off the bolt. Sigh. Anywho, I set about pulling off the intake manifold today (what a b!tch!) so I could get an "easy out" on the bolt. Well, even as difficult as that was, things are now made even worse by the fact the "easy out" decided to break off in the bolt. FuuuuuuuuuuuuuuUUUUUUuuuuuu... I was even going easy on it..... So, to the point, I am absolutely struggling to drill through this bolt. I think there's a tiny bit of the "easy out" left in the bolt, but it mustn't be much. I've been drilling it with 2 different drill bits, one a "Heat Treated Tensile Bit" and the other a "Cobalt HSS" bit by Sutton Tools. I've been drilling for over an hour and getting seemingly nowhere Has anyone experienced this or something like it? Does anyone have advice on what I should do? Is there a mobile specialist that could take care of this f**king bolt for me? Any help appreciated. Thanks bros.
  5. R32 gtst hot issues Hey, So ive got a 1992 gtst type m that i picked up recently. Its got 100,540km on it now and i just did the timing belt, put on a cheap diy intake and thats it. The car is in spotless condition. Now im having an issue with the car when it warms up. Originally it would just start hard after the car had been driven. Now the car will start fine cold with no misfires or anything, but as soon as it gets to operating temp it just stalls. If you crank it over the idle will be high, around 1800rpm and then it will start to idle hunt from about 800 to 1800rpm. If you give it any throttle input itll stop at 2500 rpm which im assuming its a limp mode? I replaced the ignitor and checked all fuses throughout, but im running out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated! Dan 20170820_153441.mp4
  6. Anyone have a lead on what wires on the R32 fuel pump plug are what. The R32 fuel pump plug is a 6 pole 5 wire plug whereas the R34...well that's just it, I don't know. Backstory, I gutted my R32 chassis and engine harnesses and ran an R34 chassis harness with the intention of running the fuel pump on the R34 connections, low and behold someone snipped the connectors to the fuel pump so now I'm stuck with my dick in my hand trying to sort out what's what. The chassis harness came out of a 4 door GTT, I'm anticipating the R34 dash, instrument cluster and other parts to arrive shortly so I can start doing the swap. My plan (assuming that I'm correct) is to just pop out wires and repin the blue R32 fuel pump plug. From what I am guessing, the R34 fuel pump has two plugs that go to it, a 2 pin and a 4 pin. I could be entirely wrong. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find any pictures close up of anyone's R34 fuel pump assembly with the wires. Even so there's still a few plugs missing on the harness that I need to sort out. Anyone with an R34 could be really helpful right now to decipher what's what.
  7. Hi guys, Got 6 brand new still in packaging Sard 540cc injectors suit RB25/SR20. Come with fitting kit (o-rings, collars, plugs etc) Bought as a precaution and no longer needed. Paid $810, asking $550. Also a brand new still in packaging genuine Bosch Z32 AFM with Tomei plug. Paid $330, asking $250. Can MMS photos as required, or inbox them on Facebook as they're "stuck" on my phone and I can't upload them to the forum from my phone? All items brand new, located in Warrnambool Vic. Contact me on here, or 04 3774 51 FOUR SEVEN Mods please delete my other thread regarding the injectors. Cheers!
  8. New R32 GTR owner Hey! What's up ya'll? My name is Antoine and I'm a proud new owner of a 1991 R32 GTR. Now unfortunatly I don't have any pictures for you all today but I would like to eventually post some. Maybe even start a build thread/fix thread?? dedicated to fixing the few things wrong with the car.. I currently live in Quebec/Canada and here in Quebec we are the only province that banned RHD vehicles. Yep that's right nor more rhd vehicles since 2009 in quebec. I'm lucky I managed to buy one road legal. I have a few things that need to be fixed on the car. 1. Horn doesn't work. 2. The back side windows are painted black. Makes it real ahrd seeing upcoming traffic. 3. Now it's not really an issue for me, but worth asking. When the engine is still warm and I start the car again, I need to give it some gas or else it won't start. 4. The sorta not big deal but annoying problem that I'd really like to eventually get fixed is this : Everytime I change gears it smells like burnt gas all over the cabin for a few secs then it goes away. It has HKS blowoff valves (external) and I think this might be the issue. I read somewhere that the car was factory tuned with recirculating valves?? Need your opinion on this. I'm thinking that the car shoots more fuel into the mix because it's expecting an air return but never gets one resulting in a crazy rich mixture. and to keep on the subject of burnt fuel smeel, I swear I'm not imagining this, but when I was cruising back home on the highway (motorway?? that how you guys say it?) I think I saw fume coming out of the heand break once and a while. Now the fuel smell doesn't really bother me, what bothers me is that I smell like arse when I'm done driving the car and need to wash my clothes and take a shower oh and that my GF complains about the smell lol. Cheers!
  9. Hello Everyone! Have some go fast bits for sale off my R33 some parts are still new. I won't post interstate but willing to travel and meet in Vic. Located in the S. E Suburbs near Keysbourough. No swaps strictly cash only if you require any additional information you may text me on 0409747507. Thank you. Brae manifold $700 ARP Headstuds for RB25det *Brand New* $220 Split fire coil packs *Brand New* $600 2000cc Bosch ID Injectors $420 Tomei Type B Valve Springs RB25det $700 *Brand New* Aeroflow Fuel Rail $130 Twin Plate Ceramic Extreme Clutch $1,200 Haltech Platinum Pro $1400 Also have an R33 manual gearbox that was reconditioned 5,000kms ago new bearings. $1,100
  10. Hi all, has anyone experienced fuel gauge issues below a quarter of a tank? Mine fluctuates wildly but seems to right itself after a bit of driving/sloshing but can drop as low as an 8th and turn the light on but then come back up to a quarter. Annoyingly the DTE under the 'boost leaf' must get its readings from the same sensor as that fluctuates too. Does this model still have a conventional float level sensor? Could it just be dirty contacts?
  11. Hi I'm getting a bigger turbo for my gtt and I'm wondering if I need to get an aftermarket ecu and a tune or an apexi afc to controll the air:fuel ratio. Does anyone know what's better for a car ? Also nistune or power fc for an auto? I know there's a lot of threads but they all have different answers. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  12. So I know I might get judged really badly for this but I need assistance. Like an idiot I filled up my tank with 91 octane because there were no other options since I was driving out of town (I live in a very rural area). I didnt get any issues initially and the car drove fine. However, today the car misfired and my check engine light is now on and is staying on. Could that be because of the fuel or would it be an issue with the coil packs? Please help.
  13. Several RB25DET fuel rails with regulators. No injectors included. Located Sydney $30 each.
  14. I have a Early build 1993 R33 Skylline GTS-T. It is NOW my understanding that there's something different about these early S1 stock injectors that makes them extremely sensitive to modern fuels or additives especially if ethanol is involved in any way. Something about the potting compound used. Makes them ELECTRICALLY fail I am on my 3RD set and sick of it! They are all perfectly spotless clean but get out of range resistance leading to infinite! So here's the story A few times Ive had e10 in my tank either cos my dad filled up and ive told him not to, or I've had to and mixed it with 98. The car ran great on it. It was a rare occurrence. Now it seems its not the e10 that killed them but rather an addtitive. As a preventative measure, after I STOPPED using ethanol, I added Nulons "e85 performance fuel treatment". A few days later the car developed a miss that got worse and worse until it barely ran and I diagnosed and replaced all 6 injectors with a used pair of stock r33 inejctors. Car ran great, for a few more weeks until AGIAN it started acting up. SAME thing. I got a tested and working set of stock injectors. Drained the tank and refilled with 98. Car ran great for 10 months. Never connecting the e85 fuel treatment to the problem, i added what I had left of it to a quarter tank of petrol. 2 hours later (which was yesterday). THE SAME problem. The culprit seems to be the "Nulon E85 performance fuel treatment." https://www.nulon.com.au/products/Fuel_Treatments/E85_Performance_Fuel_Treatment I drained the tank refilled and the car still barely runs. I need to replace my injectors AGAIN. I dont want to pay for a custom ECU and tune, so are there any updated modern injectors that are not as sensitive that are plug and play in a stock R33? Can I use S2 injectors in an S1?
  15. Hi guys I've seen a couple of threads on this subject but none that answered my specific question. I've had my 2009 370GT (7 speed auto) sedan for over 3 years and 20,000km now and ever since I bought her I've only ever used 91 petrol (the same as I did for my V35 300GT) because I never did any investigating. I have never had any problems running on 91 - she runs smoothly and perfectly, does 0-100 in 5.5 sec, no pinging, rough running etc, and I can consistently get over 600km on a tank with a motorway, city, cruisy and wheel spinning mix of driving. It was only researching about doing an oil change myself (and downloading a US Infiniti G37 manual) that I came upon the concerns about using the wrong fuel. Is it okay to keep on going as is or do I really run the risk of damaging the car? Cheers
  16. RB25 Fuel and compressor surge issues. HI guys I just want to say how frustrated I am with my stupid car. I have sent this issue to 4 mechanics in gold coast and no one can seem to fix it. Basically the car feels like its compressor surging under light acceleration and feels like something is restricting the car power wise. The car wont pull like it should and feels more like a civic. The car also sounds raspier and harsher than it usually does. The back of my bumper is caked with oil and completely black. Looks like it might be over fueling or something. You would think it would be picked up on the dyno though. At times, although rare, it will free itself up and boost like it should but its a rare occurrence when this happens. when this is happening the car is is using a crap load of fuel. It would easily go through a whole tank of fuel in half a day. This isnt normal. I think lowering the boost and duty on the EBC seems to help slightly but im not sure. I have had the car on the dyno and no one can seem to find the issue. mods I have done Power FC front mount full exhaust spit fire coil pack aftermarket fuel pump AVCR boost controller stock turbo and injectors. I have done everything humanly possible to fix it. Boost leak test, replace waste gate actuator. All new piping. I don't know what else to do! any help would be greatly appreciated.
  17. What is your favorite aftermarket fuel rail ? I have had Greddy before but the anodize blue / red color got old fast. Went back to stock fuel rail, but stock FPR died so may going back to aftermarket FPR and wanting some clean looking fuel rail delivery setup.
  18. After 4 years at about 350kw I went in to my tuner after I installed my new intercooler to get a checkup. All 6 cylinders had awesome compression and the dyno still showed 354kw atw (lower conversion method used as well). Looking at the shops workers car with the same head setup and turbos using E30 he was getting 437KW...a big jump in response. It convinced me this E thing is worth the investment - now to order some Speedflow 200 series lines. How long are the stock lines in an R32 I cant find anything about that. I know the car is 4500mm. So I was going to get 13m should be enough for 2 feed lines and 1 return. Surely someone has noted it before Thanks.
  19. 1994 R33 skyline cutting out Hey guys i was hoping someone could help me diagnose a problem i'm having: So i have a 1994 R33 GTS-4 N/A Auto, lately I have noticed that my car keeps cutting out when i'm driving it, it almost always happens when i give it too much gas (starts revving again when you release the gas a little bit) and when my fuel tank is under halfway full. A bit of a background: I have had a faulty coil pack replaced the car was only running on 5 cylinders, i have replaced all spark plugs to new NGK's, new AFM, new (second hand) transmission and new radiator and other things that wouldn't be related. The fuel pump has also been replaced because the old one when i got the car was not working, the fuel pump is a fairly cheap universal one off eBay. Also the exhaust on my car is way too big for a non turbo car so the i was told the timing might be out of whack, plus this only starting happening when i accidentally backed up into my mums car and put a crack in the exhaust. So i myself am thinking either the fuel pump is not pumping through enough fuel, or it has to do with having not enough back pressure in the exhaust. Any help would be appreciated, thank you. Update: I was just downstairs moving the car and it wouldn't start the first time and i never usually have a problem starting my car especially after i have been driving it, also smells a little rich.
  20. Nismo 740CC Side Feed Injectors I have a set of 6 Nismo 740CC Side Feed Injectors. I swapped them out to go bigger. Only ever ran Premium 98 through them, I'm after $650 plus postage. Regards,
  21. Twin surge tank setup includes all braided lines and fittings, brand new. Pick up Sydney or can post. $400
  22. Hey guys, random question, when I'm filling up and I put the bowser nosel all the way in and pull the trigger, the fuel must be getting restricted in the tank and splashing back causing the bowser to click and stop. When filling up I have to shoot the petrol into my tank (literally hold the nosel 5cm away from the hole) and only hold the trigger half way otherwise it'll spill out. Never had this issue in my old R34, and it takes 10-15mins to fill the car up. Any ideas what could be causing this? The car has an aftermarket fuel pump unsure whether its internal or external, although something is restricting the fuel tank opening.... any ideas?
  23. AI SP1200 Surge Tank and Holley Dominator Pump Hi Guys, I have for sale my AI SP1200 Surge Tank and Holley Dominator Pump. Was running this setup in my car for the last year or so during which time it's done maybe 3000km's total so not much at all. Was providing plenty of fuel for the 470awkw setup I had at the time whilst being next to silent (couldn't hear it inside the car). As the Holley Dominator is technically 2 pumps you can run them in a staged setup which is how I had it which keeps fuel temps down when you don't need a lot of fuel. All working perfectly when removed and comes mounted on a nice little plate ready to be installed. The only reason I have removed it is this system will cap out at around 650awkw or so and I need something a little larger for my new setup. Price is 1000 ONO. Item is located in Rouse Hill, NSW and pickup is preferred over post. Any questions contact me here on SMS/Call 0403858714. Thanks, Brett
  24. Up for sale I have stock parts, all in good working condition, all parts came off a 1997 R33 GTST. Make an offer, reasonable offers wont be refused. Standard Series 2 rear wing in silver (working break light included) $40 Aftermarket fiberglass Du-Luck side Skirts (painted silver, small crack but cant be seen when fitted) $80 Boot Lid (no wing, no lock, White) ***FREE*** Standard fuel pump $10 Standard exhaust cam gear $10 Standard injectors $90 Standard rear sway bar $20 Standard ECU $120 Standard cam shafts $50 X-Force muffler $30 Rear series 1 garnish $10 Standard coil packs $120 Standard indicators front guard $10 Standard rear rotors $15 All parts located south east Melbourne Prefer pick up...if not buyer can arrange postage I have photos of all the above parts...message me if you require pictures Thanks
  25. Stagea C34/M35 Parts & Viper Alarm Hi all, I used to own a 1997 C34 auto Nissan Stagea and a 2002 NM35 auto Nissan Stagea and have some spare parts lying around and would like to sell them. I have uploaded some pictures and can send more via email or sms. 1 x Viper alarm system 5806V with GPS tracking and remote start with additional tilt and audio sensors - Brand New - $850 1 x C34 stock exhaust (I think I have turbo back) - $100 1 x C34 stock wheel - $50 1 x C34 auto series 1 viscous LSD - $300 1 x C34 fuel tank with no fuel pump - $50 1 x C34 auto series 1 prop shaft (requires reconditioning) - $50 1 x R32 GTR Nismo fuel pump - used and in good condition - $220 1 x RB25DET JJR blue silicone heater hose set (missing 2 pieces) New - $80 1 x RB25DET valley cover (please note the snorkel pictured has been sold) - $20 3 x Camber correction Superpro and Whiteline Bushes (SPF3154K, SPF1869K & KCA347) - New - $300 for the lot or $120 each 6 x RB26DETT stock pistons and rods. I may have RB25 and/or also RB30 pistons and rods. $50 for the lot. 1 x M35 Stock ECU - $150 1 x M35 HKS SLD to remove 180km/hr speed cut (NEW) - $350 6 x M35 stock injectors - $50 1 x M35 stock intercooler and fan - $50 1 x M35 stock turbo actuator - $50 That's all I can think of now. If you have any questions please feel free to pm me. I'm located at Derrimut, Victoria. I am also happy to post at buyer's expense. Cheers, Kandio
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