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Found 72 results

  1. Does anyone know of a fuel pump that I can "directly" replace the factory one with for my N/A r33 GTS. Yes I know there's upgrade kits for more pressure etc, I'm not looking to make power I just want to replace the old pump without messing around with wiring etc, just want to direct swap it for a new one whether it be oem or aftermarket that direct fits to original bracket/wires. Cheers
  2. Hi guys and girls, Does anybody have a HR31 fuel pump bracket and sender laying around that they would sell to me? I don't need the pump, just the bracket and sender unit. Thanks, Geoff.
  3. So, ive got a v35 2003 that has a rear sports muffler and HFC's with the rest stock. It sounds decent but is a bit quiet as higher revs like 4-6k or probs quite in general. Ive tried doing a res delete and it sounded tinny so i put it back on and i know the front muffler delete will do the same thing. Is there any other options to make this beast louder? And secondly, im getting around 380-400kms on 1 tank of fuel. So either my needle is off on the fuel gauge or there's something wrong. Is this a common thing?
  4. HKS 1000cc injectors, working perfectly and only removed due to fuel system upgrade. $500 ono
  5. Howdy, long story short, I took my car for a 10 minute drive up the road and back. After not driving it for about 3 - 4 hours i decided to move it BUT when I went to crank it the fuel pump didn’t prime it made a humming noise but wasent priming. I checked fuses, ground and still no luck. Next I replaced fuel pump and fuel relay and got a electrician to do it so it’s not dodgy. The fuel pump did the same thing as the last one hummed but didn’t prime and now it isn’t even humming? What should I try next cheers
  6. After 4 years at about 350kw I went in to my tuner after I installed my new intercooler to get a checkup. All 6 cylinders had awesome compression and the dyno still showed 354kw atw (lower conversion method used as well). Looking at the shops workers car with the same head setup and turbos using E30 he was getting 437KW...a big jump in response. It convinced me this E thing is worth the investment - now to order some Speedflow 200 series lines. How long are the stock lines in an R32 I cant find anything about that. I know the car is 4500mm. So I was going to get 13m should be enough for 2 feed lines and 1 return. Surely someone has noted it before Thanks.
  7. Nismo GT Shift Knob (Urethane) 6 speed - discontinued model. Used but in great condition in box - $210 BNR34 Vspec II Shift knob good condition, slight wear on paint - $200 BNR34 factory carpet mat full set great condition - $550 Nismo fuel cap - discontinued model - $300 Nismo 10pt key - new, uncut, genuine in box - $600 R34 owners manual (GT, GTT) - $100 Postage available at buyers expense. Pics posted later today.
  8. Hey everyone, Trying to resurrect my R32 GTST which now has a rusty fuel tank. Retrofitting a plastic tank from the R32 GTR should be the way to go if I can still find one around. If anyone has some info, a contact, some guidance, it would be greatly appreciated. So essentially I'll be looking for the complete tank with filler neck, pump cradle and cap Thank you very much,
  9. Ok, so, I've been having problems with starting my 98 R33 Gts-t recently. It can vary from turning over and never firing to starting but running very poorly and stalling to working fine seemingly at random. On more than one occasion, by playing with the fuel pump wiring, fuse or plug the car will start and run perfectly, i do not know if this is the actual problem because it seems so intermittent however, i do know that the car will run roughly/stall without the fuel pump plugged in (I swear I didn't forget to connect it, i was "testing"). If anyone has had a problem similar to this and fixed it that would be great to hear but being vague and intermittent I don't hold much hope. The real meat of this post is, if i were to replace the pump is there a nice drop in replacement that doesn't cost and arm and a leg while not being from the Chinese lucky dip bag on ebay? my other thought was to upgrade to a Walbro 255 (GSS340) or a Bosch 040 because eventually my plan is to buy something reliable and diesel (and high off the ground so ramps aren't necessary for everything ) and throw some money into this car so i figured i may as well plan for power as i'm most likely to get a new car within a year. But i have read mixed things about both the bosch and walbro from a general trawl through the forums, is there a clear winner? Also if i do end up going this option, do I have to upgrade the wiring to the pump and what is the best way to go about this, my thoughts are to use the current power wires to trigger a separate fused relay. Anyway, thanks in advanced for any help Joe
  10. Hi guys I've seen a couple of threads on this subject but none that answered my specific question. I've had my 2009 370GT (7 speed auto) sedan for over 3 years and 20,000km now and ever since I bought her I've only ever used 91 petrol (the same as I did for my V35 300GT) because I never did any investigating. I have never had any problems running on 91 - she runs smoothly and perfectly, does 0-100 in 5.5 sec, no pinging, rough running etc, and I can consistently get over 600km on a tank with a motorway, city, cruisy and wheel spinning mix of driving. It was only researching about doing an oil change myself (and downloading a US Infiniti G37 manual) that I came upon the concerns about using the wrong fuel. Is it okay to keep on going as is or do I really run the risk of damaging the car? Cheers
  11. Hi all, has anyone experienced fuel gauge issues below a quarter of a tank? Mine fluctuates wildly but seems to right itself after a bit of driving/sloshing but can drop as low as an 8th and turn the light on but then come back up to a quarter. Annoyingly the DTE under the 'boost leaf' must get its readings from the same sensor as that fluctuates too. Does this model still have a conventional float level sensor? Could it just be dirty contacts?
  12. Anyone have a lead on what wires on the R32 fuel pump plug are what. The R32 fuel pump plug is a 6 pole 5 wire plug whereas the R34...well that's just it, I don't know. Backstory, I gutted my R32 chassis and engine harnesses and ran an R34 chassis harness with the intention of running the fuel pump on the R34 connections, low and behold someone snipped the connectors to the fuel pump so now I'm stuck with my dick in my hand trying to sort out what's what. The chassis harness came out of a 4 door GTT, I'm anticipating the R34 dash, instrument cluster and other parts to arrive shortly so I can start doing the swap. My plan (assuming that I'm correct) is to just pop out wires and repin the blue R32 fuel pump plug. From what I am guessing, the R34 fuel pump has two plugs that go to it, a 2 pin and a 4 pin. I could be entirely wrong. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find any pictures close up of anyone's R34 fuel pump assembly with the wires. Even so there's still a few plugs missing on the harness that I need to sort out. Anyone with an R34 could be really helpful right now to decipher what's what.
  13. What is your favorite aftermarket fuel rail ? I have had Greddy before but the anodize blue / red color got old fast. Went back to stock fuel rail, but stock FPR died so may going back to aftermarket FPR and wanting some clean looking fuel rail delivery setup.
  14. So I know I might get judged really badly for this but I need assistance. Like an idiot I filled up my tank with 91 octane because there were no other options since I was driving out of town (I live in a very rural area). I didnt get any issues initially and the car drove fine. However, today the car misfired and my check engine light is now on and is staying on. Could that be because of the fuel or would it be an issue with the coil packs? Please help.
  15. AUSTRALIA now has the distinction of having one of the dirtiest fuel standards in the developed world. Amongst signatories to the OECD – an international economic forum of 35 countries – Australia has the worst record on fuel quality. Mexico, once ridiculed as the only developed OECD member with fuel quality that fell lower than Australia’s, has recently introduced a 50 parts per million level of sulphur – used as a measure of how polluting petrol can be – in unleaded fuel. More on WheelsMag.com.au
  16. 1. New Radium High volume external pump surge tank. $500 2. New JMS FUELMAX single pm2000 40A (boost up voltage from 14v-20v adjustable and ramp in function, active when boost or 5v, much better than kennebell bap) $500 3. A lot New and used aeroflow fittings and silicone hose(an 6 8 10 12 full flow push on hose end, 8 orb-6 8 10an fittings efi fittings, etc) want sale as a package. $500, buy new will cost you over $1200. enough build one car surge tank fuel system. 4. new nitto head drain rb26. $150 5. new platinum rb26 cas bracket. $200 6. used reimax adjustable cam gears. $120 7. 2002 r34 gtr alternator in perfect working condition only 53000kms old. $180 8. nismo thermostat 3000kms old. $40 9. zeitronix E85 ECA. blue readout. without ethanol sensor. $150 (new one cost around $300 shipped to aus) 10. haltech afr gauge. $30 11. reimax rb26 clear timing cover. $60 12. new single and dual billet aluminium gauge holder fit both 52mm and 60mm gauge. $20 single, $40 dual. location : gold coast
  17. Hello Everyone! Have some go fast bits for sale off my R33 some parts are still new. I won't post interstate but willing to travel and meet in Vic. Located in the S. E Suburbs near Keysbourough. No swaps strictly cash only if you require any additional information you may text me on 0409747507. Thank you. Brae manifold $700 ARP Headstuds for RB25det *Brand New* $220 Split fire coil packs *Brand New* $600 2000cc Bosch ID Injectors $420 Tomei Type B Valve Springs RB25det $700 *Brand New* Aeroflow Fuel Rail $130 Twin Plate Ceramic Extreme Clutch $1,200 Haltech Platinum Pro $1400 Also have an R33 manual gearbox that was reconditioned 5,000kms ago new bearings. $1,100
  18. Just wondering here guys...what problems would a rich rb25det face.....lost of power etc?im not sure...thanks in advance
  19. R32 gtst hot issues Hey, So ive got a 1992 gtst type m that i picked up recently. Its got 100,540km on it now and i just did the timing belt, put on a cheap diy intake and thats it. The car is in spotless condition. Now im having an issue with the car when it warms up. Originally it would just start hard after the car had been driven. Now the car will start fine cold with no misfires or anything, but as soon as it gets to operating temp it just stalls. If you crank it over the idle will be high, around 1800rpm and then it will start to idle hunt from about 800 to 1800rpm. If you give it any throttle input itll stop at 2500 rpm which im assuming its a limp mode? I replaced the ignitor and checked all fuses throughout, but im running out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated! Dan 20170820_153441.mp4
  20. E85 on BNR34 with standard fuel lines... Hi all, I was recently told that the fuel lines on BNR34's are actually smaller then BNR32 & BCNR33's... and I know that the ideal setup when running E85 is replacing the standard lines with full braided or Teflon lines, but I wont have the $$$ or time to get that them in time for WTAC in less then a weeks time. So my question is this, Is anyone running their R34 GT-R on E85 with the standard fuel feed lines??? As im only aiming for around 330-350 kW's at the rears would I still need to upgrade lines? Cheers, Glen
  21. Intermittent running problems Hi everyone, should probably start this off with a bit of background info. this is my back and fourth to work car, i do have a lead foot sometimes, but I don't need it for the power. my r33 non turbo automatic with the RB25DE has been running rough intermittently when it first started I thought it might have been a fuel issue, so changed the fuel filter, oil, oil filter and blew out the air filter i pulled the coil packs out and they were starting to show small problems Problem continued , had to wait a few days to fix that but finally got round to it, cleaned the carby and mass flow, the spark plugs i had thought should be still good since the last service not many k's before but a fair amount of time it drove smooth the next day, then started to drive rough 30mins in the day after. i pulled it apart again deciding to change the plugs, chucked carby cleaner drove the next day calmly, day later ran rough 35mins into drive decided the coolant temperature sensor needed to be replaced drove to and from work smoothly then jumped in to run down the road and it didn't just wait to be 10 or 15 mins into the drive, it ran rough all the way
  22. 1994 R33 skyline cutting out Hey guys i was hoping someone could help me diagnose a problem i'm having: So i have a 1994 R33 GTS-4 N/A Auto, lately I have noticed that my car keeps cutting out when i'm driving it, it almost always happens when i give it too much gas (starts revving again when you release the gas a little bit) and when my fuel tank is under halfway full. A bit of a background: I have had a faulty coil pack replaced the car was only running on 5 cylinders, i have replaced all spark plugs to new NGK's, new AFM, new (second hand) transmission and new radiator and other things that wouldn't be related. The fuel pump has also been replaced because the old one when i got the car was not working, the fuel pump is a fairly cheap universal one off eBay. Also the exhaust on my car is way too big for a non turbo car so the i was told the timing might be out of whack, plus this only starting happening when i accidentally backed up into my mums car and put a crack in the exhaust. So i myself am thinking either the fuel pump is not pumping through enough fuel, or it has to do with having not enough back pressure in the exhaust. Any help would be appreciated, thank you. Update: I was just downstairs moving the car and it wouldn't start the first time and i never usually have a problem starting my car especially after i have been driving it, also smells a little rich.
  23. Broken Fuel Rail Bolt - Help Me, I'm F**ked! Hey SAU. So as part of my ever running saga of crap I have to deal with on my R33, some of you may know from my build thread that I broke one of the 3 fuel rail bolts. This likely happened from me over-tightening then a few jolts from some spirited tuning runs was enough to vibrate the head off the bolt. Sigh. Anywho, I set about pulling off the intake manifold today (what a b!tch!) so I could get an "easy out" on the bolt. Well, even as difficult as that was, things are now made even worse by the fact the "easy out" decided to break off in the bolt. FuuuuuuuuuuuuuuUUUUUUuuuuuu... I was even going easy on it..... So, to the point, I am absolutely struggling to drill through this bolt. I think there's a tiny bit of the "easy out" left in the bolt, but it mustn't be much. I've been drilling it with 2 different drill bits, one a "Heat Treated Tensile Bit" and the other a "Cobalt HSS" bit by Sutton Tools. I've been drilling for over an hour and getting seemingly nowhere Has anyone experienced this or something like it? Does anyone have advice on what I should do? Is there a mobile specialist that could take care of this f**king bolt for me? Any help appreciated. Thanks bros.
  24. I have a Early build 1993 R33 Skylline GTS-T. It is NOW my understanding that there's something different about these early S1 stock injectors that makes them extremely sensitive to modern fuels or additives especially if ethanol is involved in any way. Something about the potting compound used. Makes them ELECTRICALLY fail I am on my 3RD set and sick of it! They are all perfectly spotless clean but get out of range resistance leading to infinite! So here's the story A few times Ive had e10 in my tank either cos my dad filled up and ive told him not to, or I've had to and mixed it with 98. The car ran great on it. It was a rare occurrence. Now it seems its not the e10 that killed them but rather an addtitive. As a preventative measure, after I STOPPED using ethanol, I added Nulons "e85 performance fuel treatment". A few days later the car developed a miss that got worse and worse until it barely ran and I diagnosed and replaced all 6 injectors with a used pair of stock r33 inejctors. Car ran great, for a few more weeks until AGIAN it started acting up. SAME thing. I got a tested and working set of stock injectors. Drained the tank and refilled with 98. Car ran great for 10 months. Never connecting the e85 fuel treatment to the problem, i added what I had left of it to a quarter tank of petrol. 2 hours later (which was yesterday). THE SAME problem. The culprit seems to be the "Nulon E85 performance fuel treatment." https://www.nulon.com.au/products/Fuel_Treatments/E85_Performance_Fuel_Treatment I drained the tank refilled and the car still barely runs. I need to replace my injectors AGAIN. I dont want to pay for a custom ECU and tune, so are there any updated modern injectors that are not as sensitive that are plug and play in a stock R33? Can I use S2 injectors in an S1?
  25. New R32 GTR owner Hey! What's up ya'll? My name is Antoine and I'm a proud new owner of a 1991 R32 GTR. Now unfortunatly I don't have any pictures for you all today but I would like to eventually post some. Maybe even start a build thread/fix thread?? dedicated to fixing the few things wrong with the car.. I currently live in Quebec/Canada and here in Quebec we are the only province that banned RHD vehicles. Yep that's right nor more rhd vehicles since 2009 in quebec. I'm lucky I managed to buy one road legal. I have a few things that need to be fixed on the car. 1. Horn doesn't work. 2. The back side windows are painted black. Makes it real ahrd seeing upcoming traffic. 3. Now it's not really an issue for me, but worth asking. When the engine is still warm and I start the car again, I need to give it some gas or else it won't start. 4. The sorta not big deal but annoying problem that I'd really like to eventually get fixed is this : Everytime I change gears it smells like burnt gas all over the cabin for a few secs then it goes away. It has HKS blowoff valves (external) and I think this might be the issue. I read somewhere that the car was factory tuned with recirculating valves?? Need your opinion on this. I'm thinking that the car shoots more fuel into the mix because it's expecting an air return but never gets one resulting in a crazy rich mixture. and to keep on the subject of burnt fuel smeel, I swear I'm not imagining this, but when I was cruising back home on the highway (motorway?? that how you guys say it?) I think I saw fume coming out of the heand break once and a while. Now the fuel smell doesn't really bother me, what bothers me is that I smell like arse when I'm done driving the car and need to wash my clothes and take a shower oh and that my GF complains about the smell lol. Cheers!
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