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Found 314 results

  1. Full ad: – Photos: ^^^ If viewing on the SAU app please tap the image and select View in Gallery Note: This is a replacement thread for the original EOI: ... Asking $19,500 with some exclusions, please see the full ad. PM for further details.
  2. Hey all, Decided id keep track of my current project on here for everyone to enjoy, judge, all the fun stuff. So since i first got my GTT, i have always wanted it to have a wider body like a GTR. after looking at some kits online, i decided id have a go at building one myself because i wanted something no one else has. So went online ordered myself 40kgs of clay and all the fiber glassing items i need.The current plan is to build front, rear bolt on fenders and side skirts, then build a duck-tail spoiler for it. Here is the current progress. So far all ive used for shaping it is, couple small metal scrapers, bit of card board and a 2mm sheet of mdf. Going to change the rears a bit to more match the shape of the front and bring the rears all the way down to the side skirts.
  3. Good Evening All! I am new to this forum and am very pleased to be here as it means I have finally bought my dream car, and 1998 R34 GTT. I have been coveting a skyline since I was a kid and after owning many many different cars I decided I would buy my lifer, the one I had really wanted but had fallen by the wayside. There is just one problem.. It. Is. Ugly. As. Sin. Seriously the last owner must of not cleaned it the entire miserable time he owned it, not to mention deciding that carparks were the perfect place to practice his destruction derby skills, then covering it in "hilarious" bandaid stickers as if to say "whoops". There is a good chance this car is the ugliest one in NSW however under the dust and grime and cosmetic damage I could see a glimmer of potential. I was concerned for it when I saw it, and by the time I drove it home I was in love with it. Brace yourselves you may want a drink before looking at these, much to my wife's credit she trusted me to buy this (for a bargain of a price), keep in mind these pictures make the car actually look BETTER than it did in person.
  4. My current project car is a '92 Supercharged MX5, I've been building it over the past 5 years but sadly its time to move on. Like most, my dream car is an R34, a GTR will always be out of my price range but I would certainly be happy with a GTT. I'd decided the MX5 would be stripped and sold in September when the insurance expires and then start the search for a clean R34. I wouldnt be a true car enthusiast if i wasn't already looking for cars on the interweb with this decision in mind. My fingers were starting to hurt after refreshing various selling and auction sites here and Japan too often. One car I kept being drawn back to was a white Series 2. It ticked all the boxes for what i was looking for, except it was the facelift front bumper that was preventing me from looking deeper into the details. So i messaged the seller and asked for a few more details and photos, very quick responses and the amount of photos asked on request was overwhelming. Was it worth the 7hr round trip to go look at it, to potentially not like it? If it was as clean as it was in the photos, something major must have had been up with it if i was to walk away. Luckily this wasn't the case, infact the car was even better in person. After a test drive and a good poke around i really couldnt fault the car except for a knock on the driver side rear. So with an offer made he accepted and I drove away extremely happy! The 170ish mile drive home was faultless and i look forward to digging in and putting my own stamp on it. It would have been rude to not get some photos, especially with the MX5 Nissan Skyline R34 GTT Series 2 RB25DET NEO 6 Manual Transmission Imported in 2016 by IBE Cars in Huddersfield,UK Resprayed in original Pearl White in 2017 Its stock except for a custom turbo back exhaust, HKS mushroom filter and aftermarket stereo
  5. Disclaimer, I don't excuse myself for my behavior. I'll split this up into two parts, Before kids and after kids. Cause that's what'll stop you building kiddos. Children. You like cars? Unless you are swimming in cash; WEAR A f**kING CONDOM. (My 4 children are my blessing, I wouldn't have it any way; Just giving real advice) So a good half a decade or probably more, I purchased an R34 GTT. Always been a S chassis boy prior, Wanted to do a big power SR20 skidder with an RB box behind it...Till I drove a big power SR. They ain't exactly fun, So can only get so much out of 2.0L and 4 cylinders before it becomes a shit car to drive. Then thought about RB converting my 180 at the time, Put the pen to paper and decided the wiser move would be to just buy a Skyline. At the time, Japanese cars were still cheap and Tracy Grimshaw's head didn't have so much girth. (What a mad word.) So I bought an R34 GTT. Seemed like the right choice at the time for someone who wanted a big power skidder. Motor was healthy with perfect comp, Cleaned it up and sent it for a nistune with Toshi. During the process we found the car had a Link G4 ECU; Winning! She made a healthy 190RWKW with the standard snail on 98. Can't remember the boost guys, But don't bother doing this with a standard OP6 turbo; It'll shatter as I found out laying a good 2nd for the boys, Cause you DDTB nomsayin? So after the f**k about on that, I got motivated to build that drift car. Kept it real simple; - 1000cc Injectors, Kinugawa TD06 W a Garret 60-1, Walbro 460 In-tank pump and E85. Got Mick's Motorspot involved for the tune. She made 310RWKW like a baws. I through on a full adjustable steering kit and sat the car on some Blitz ZZR coilovers. I have purchased pretty much all coil overs for my vehicles over the years; For the couple extra quid; Get the Blitz ZZR's. They ride perfect in every way I want. Soft, But not too soft. Firm enough to feel the road. Good travel and handles well when the car's weight is shifted around suddenly. Got some basic aesthetics for the car. Remember kids, OEM+ wins. (Phone camera's also got good). First off. I know. I fuggin know. Dat seat height. I'm a big boy. This thing was a blast to drive, I can't remember what year it was but I was going to try taking my drifting more seriously (Yes. I was going to skid this thing. How f**king insane is income when you don't have children) but then the head lifted from my go happy right foot and the missus pregnancy test showed positive... Which contrary to what I initially thought; Positive does not mean all good. What a shit time for something like this to happen! I'll never get the car done! And so she got put into the shed (Considered selling a few times but couldn't) and our friend Tracy... Well she got kinda popular among us. The police started to bully us. Defect stations were everywhere. Every "Mitsubishi WRX" was on today tonight getting defected. Now I am not saying that I am directly responsible for Sydney's lock-out laws, But last time you could have a good night at The Cross with bag'n'the boys; This car was running. Co-incidence? I think not.
  6. Hi all, This is my first post on this forum and I'm after a little help. Like many of us, I'm respraying my interior panels, however I'm stumped as to how to pry off the climate control panel without snapping anything. I've looked at this post but can't find out exactly how to do it: Issue is that after I've lifted all the tabs on the top of the cover, there seems to be something holding it all together still near the circular dial side. Really don't want to snap it so just looking for some advice. If there is already a post explaining how to do it, please point me in the right direction Thanks fellas.
  7. Hey guys, bought a series 2 RB25DET neo and now looking for a loom to suit. Will a loom out of an s1 work with the s2 motor?
  8. RK1.0

    Hi to everybody. Bought month ago a 2000, manual R34 Gtt. Modifications are turbo timer, hks boost control, hks boost gauge, bigger intercooler, hks blow off, tein coilovers, splitfire coilpacks, twinplate clutch, 3" exhaust. Its my first Nissan and first turbo car. It is not in perfect condition but I like to get my hands on it. Camshaft seals were leaking badly and also powersteering hose, I took it off and Enzed repaired hose. I changed front rack end, tie rod and rear rack end on left side. Crankshaft rear seal is leaking and probably thats why clutch is slipping sometimes 😐 Also I am after factory gtt series 1 front bar and factory sideskirts - at the moment it has fiberglass altia front bar and sideskirts, both are broken by previous owner. Hks boost gauge was disconnected because of police, I plugged it in but I dont know how to set it up, I havent found any instructions or user manual online. It has three buttons set, select and warning... Previous owner liked stickers, I removed all of them. One was very worn SAU sticker, so maybe somebody knows something about that car. It is imported 2013 and after year it was sold to next ower. Sorry for my grammar
  9. I got my exhaust manifold resurfaced so I thought I'd make a video of the removal process. Let me know if it's good or sh#t. I'm no mechanic or expert in RB's (or any motors), I just use google and use my mechanical mind... Tutorial was done on my 1998 R34 GTT RB25Det Neo (Hypergear Highflow turbo with stock exhaust manifold).
  10. Eljin

    Hi everyone, I just bought a Nissan Skyline R34 GT that has a Rb25de NA motor which they turbo it with an ebay turbo. So the previous guy blew the block due to high compression and I bought it from him. I recently took the motor out and swapped a Rb25det Neo. I had to rewire all the harness to fit because of the previous NA motor which it doesnt have the same connectors as the neo. Now the I dont have a oil temp wire to connect. I was wondering if anyone had an extra oil temp wire and oil pressure sensor. I want to know if anyone has done a swap from a N/A into a Neo turbo. Please tell me about your experience and how you made it work. Thanks!
  11. Looking for a full set of brakes. Calipers, rotors and pads. Can buy rotors and pads separate. Also looking for rear turbo hubs or wheel bearings. will pay post to SA.
  12. Hi guys Long story short, i'm wanting to get a front-lip for my R34 gtt, and discovered this image of one on a S1 front bumper. I am absolutely in love with this lip but cannot for the life of me find what it is called, let alone where to get one. Can anyone point me in the right direction to it, or a similar one? Also open to any other suggestions. Have tried everywhere to find out what the hell this lip is with no such luck!
  13. DecipherBee

    This is most likely a noob question but i was wondering how i would go about removing the little coin compartment near the right knee. Mine has got abit loose and would like to know how to take it apart so i can figure out how i can fix it without destroying it. Here is a picture of the compartment i was referring too. Thanks.
  14. So I am making this post as I've searched the forums, and the posts I could find aren't fitting my personal situation. I've already got all the supporting mods for my turbo upgrade, Front facing Plenum, 6boost turbo/ exhaust manifold with T3 fitting, 1000cc injectors, walbro 460 fuel pump, all the gaskets you could dream for, electric boost controller (Already in), Blitz Nur Spec R exhaust, and a front mount intercooler. I've tried making another post elsewhere on these forums reguarding a turbo upgrade, and said post got closed as apparently it's totally fine for people to insult a build, but it's not ok for people to make a new post on a forums, asking for help to suit their situation. My build is unique to 99% of builds on here, I am getting all my modifications engineered and permitted accordingly. I'll be installing all the mods myself, making sure they all apply to the legal standards (Plumbing back to exhaust, emissions) and then I'll be paying an engineer to get it certified. For the turbo upgrade, I am wanting a minimum of 350HP, but I'm looking at around 400- 450HP. The turbo that I require will have to be with a T3 housing (I know garrett give the option for a lot of their turbos to suit multiple fittings). I have no experience with turbos at all, as my skyline is the first performance car I've owned. If someone could give some serious suggestions, someone who knows what they're talking about when it comes to cars, as to what Turbo is good, and what to avoid, that would be amazing. Also, forgot to mention, but I want this turbo for street performance, and a bit of track time, possibly drifting every now and then on track, so I'm not 100%, but I think that would mean I need a responsive turbo with high boost at low RPM? Cheers!
  15. Hello! Up for sale is my R34 GTT I’ve considered selling this a couple times now, it’s a great car and it’s never let me down but I feel like it’s time to move on and get something a little more practical for road trips and skiing holidays. I also have all receipts for all car related purchases and servicing performed, literally a whole folder full of paperwork. The car has a whole lot of quality parts, time and money put into it, it's ready for anything you throw at it or ready to enjoy as a very capable skyline. This is an absolute blast to drive through the twisty roads or at track days as well as being incredibly reliable. Even though it's big and red, it's presented well and the police never give me any trouble. Rego Expiry: 08-03-2018 Build Thread link can be found in my signature Exterior AR2 Paint in Great condition, 1 blemish on the rear bumper. Viva Garage D1 Spec front lip JSAI Z Tune Style Side Skirts JSAI Z Tune Style Rear Pods Genuine Nissan R34 GTR Rear Spoiler Genuine Nismo Carbon Fibre Spoiler Blade Window Tints front and back in 20% darkness Enkei RPF01 Wheels 17x9+22 (Front and Rear) New Goodride Tyres Nismo front and side indicators Xenon Headlights Interior Genuine Bride Seats with Genuine bride rails Nismo floor mats Nismo GT500 Shift Knob Nismo 300km/h dash Nismo center gauge cluster Sony Head Unit (bluetooth phone/audio with an under seat sub hidden in the boot) Broadway Mirror Working Heater/Air Con in great condition All plastics in great condition, no sticky coating / peeling Suspension / Handling HSD Monopro coilovers Nismo S-Tune Sway bar kit (Front and Rear) Cusco Castor Rods GKTech Hicas Lock Bar Nismo Strut Brace with brake stopper (Front) Cusco rear Strut Brace Rear subframe removed and reinforced with GKTech weld in plates Whiteline Subframe bushes GKTech Diff Bushes Nismo 1.5way LSD Brakes (Front) HEL Braided Brake Lines DBA T3 4000 series slotted Rotors Project Mu HC800+ Pads Brakes(Rear) HEL Braided Brake Lines Machined Rotors Winmax Brake Pads Engine Bay Healthy RB25DET NEO BLITZ SBC Spec R Electronic Boost Controller (Dual Solenoid Type) APEXI SAFC BLITZ Turn Flow intercooler connecting to stock piping (no issues with police) Stock Airbox (Again, no issues with police) Bellmouth 3” Dump Pipe with High Flow cat HKS Silent Hi Power Exhaust 3” cat back Alloy radiator with Greddy Radiator Cap Water temp gauge hidden in glove box Timing belt kit done OS Giken cam gear (exhaust) New OEM Thermostat Carbing cooling pannel New battery < 6 months old I have had the timing belt and water pump done which included a genuine Nissan timing kit including Nissan belt, seals pulleys and water pump, While this was all apart, an OS Giken adjustable cam gear was installed as well as a new OEM thermostat. The car has approx 160,000km’s on it in total. The car currently has a Nismo dash in it which reads less however, i'm just being honest. The last service was done by me around 1000km ago which included Engine Oil Spark Plugs Braided Brake Lines Front Brake Pads Thicker alloy radiator New OEM Clutch Fan Flush Coolant Price as is: $19,500 - Negotiable Options: BYO Wheels -$1000 Rear Spoiler removed -$1000 BYO Seats -$500
  16. HI guys. Hopefully this build thread will last a little longer than my last 34, hopefully won't make the same mistakes as I did on the previous. Bought this January 2014 after searching for a few months. Owned by an older gentleman (who didn't know much but had cash), with receipts, import papers, all the goods. Only 106k kms on it and fresh timing belt service, and a very good price for the amount of engine work done. Specs include intake/exhaust, FMIC, 600cc injectors, fuel pump, type a poncams, powerfc, z32 and garret gt30 @18psi. Making a fairly responsive 350rwhp. I ended up doing a compression test for piece of mind after I bought it, and got between 150 and 155 over all 6. Engine pulled hard, started and ran great. The intention of this car is to just be a weekend cruiser. First point of call - put my old plates on 6000k HIDs high and low. Also painted the interior trim. Will be professionally hydrodipping it later on, this is just a temp because the "sticky paint" was really bad It was about this point I started noticing some really dodgy stuff going on. Nothing major, and nothing to do with the engine performance, which I still stand by. I call this segment: "Things that I have found" - "Why I believe he has done so" Wrong size battery for mount - Because I have no idea (you can also see the quality of my ballast install, which was the reason for the photo initially) He has hacksawed the gear shift knobs' thread off, and rethreaded a new knob on, lowering it by around 30mm. He also replaced stock gaiter with this abomination. - Why? Because F**K YOU that's why. Have no idea why this was done. But I sourced a new shift arm locally, and bought a new gaiter, and better feel shift knob. You can also see my half assed paint job here. Drivers side wiper arm had snapped, so he had just taped it back together - lazy I guess? It was summer, I probably would have done the same thing. New arm sourced. The worst of the lot. The boot would not "pop up" when you pressed the handle or used the key, but if you lifted it slightly it would. I removed the trim to find out someone had COMPLETELY filled the boot with expandable foam. The rear light had also been welded over from the inside, and a new light had to be put in the rear windscreen. - My guess is that previous previous owner had a sub, and to stop the boot from vibrating he decided that weighing it down with 3kgs of foam would help. On the plus side, with my sub in there, it certainly does not rattle. At all. Ever. (pics to come) Replaced stock gauges with nismo. Will be replacing dash if one comes up locally. Bonnet struts. Which work perfectly because the bonnet latch height made me hit my head, this raises it that little bit so my head clears it Decent fitting rims, and tien super street coilovers Got an oil cooler going in today as temps do get high, even in winter. Going to try a different brand of oil as well, going to try Nulon 10w40 Got front tie rods and ball joints (as my FL was seized), HICAS elimination kit and front and rear cambers arms coming as there is -2.5 deg camber all round. Have also replaced that $50 head unit with a decent one with bluetooth, and put a small sub in the boot. More to come.
  17. For sale is the complete R34 GTR front conversion for your R33 gt, gtst or gtr. Contains: Genuine R34 GTR bonnet/hood - Aluminum Genuine R34 GTR front Bumper (includes genuine mesh grill inserts top and bottom and genuine GTR badge) - ABS plastic as factory Genuine R34 headlights Bee - R Guards/fenders, left and right sides. they enable the transition between the r33 car and the r34 front - Fiberglass R34 tinted fog lights Everything is unpainted, the blue and the carbon is just a vinyl warp. easy to peel of and paint any colour you like $1500
  18. Hi guys, this has been covered only a hand full of times as far as I can see and none have definitive answers on actual lengths, only the theory behind changing traction arm length. So, today Christian and I from Sideways motorsport in Brisbane tested a number of different traction arm lengths in a r34 gtt and measured toe through from full droop to full compression to measure bump steer (toe changes with changes in bump). Firstly, we removed the rear coilover, and removed the wheel. Christian then made a little jig to fit to the hub of the vehicle out of stainless plate that we bolted on to the hub using the wheel nuts, then setup a string line parallel with the hub and took a measurement of the distance from the string line to the hub from the front and back of the stainless jig / plate. We then jacked the hub up to full compression and measured the change in distance from the front and rear of the plate. We then had the measurement in mm for the toe change through the wheel travel. We tried a number of different traction arm lengths, from fuly extended to as short as possible. The least amount of toe change we found was with the traction arm set to 7mm longer than standard from centre of bolt hole to centre of bolt hole. The ride height is around 330mm and camber -2 in the rear. My question is what lengths have other people tested and found that a certain length minmises bump, im asking because the jig we made is relatively crude and my guess is a little bit of human error would certainly be involved in the measurement process. Any insights on this matter are most welcome !!
  19. Skyline Ranga

    hi guys I'm looking for a trusted and experienced mechanic in Melbourne, Melbourne west if possible, to work on my skyline, give feedback, and basic servicing.
  20. UP FOR SALE Apexi power fc including hand controller, was removed from a r34 GTT the unit is in perfect working order selling as i have purchased a stand alone ecu PRICE $650 contact <removed>
  21. Hello. I have a R34 GTT and because reasons, I need to maintain stock geometry. However, I can change the geometry. I have a few questions. 1) Can I get a non HICAS subframe and bolt everything from the GTT subframe into said subframe? 2) What parts of said subframe determine whether the rear shocks can be fork or eyelet type? I do not want to change from current fork type because I would like to keep my coilovers. My ultimate goal is to convert my current car into having stock rear toe arms I can set with an adjustable whiteline bush for configurable toe. Answers to inevitable questions: I have a HICAS eliminator kit already. I can not use this. The diff has to come out because reasons anyway. The tailshaft is removed for reasons anyway as is the exhaust. There's not much in the way of removing the subframe. I would also like to put every bush known to man into whatever subframe (i.e the R34 non HICAS one) goes back into the car. Is there a kit for this? I don't know the names of every bush that is on every site and this is quite confusing to me. I do have *some* bushes already. Can I re-use these? I have pineapples, and rear camber adjustment for the current uprights in the GTT. How much of this can be re-used? OPTION 2: Buy HICAS parts and put into GTT subframe. Surely no one wants option 2. I searched, oh god I searched but I'd like confirmation before I buy a subframe I can't use, or one that requires me to replace my diff, or axles, or coilovers or buy whiteline bushes I already own. I would much rather put HICAS back in than do that.
  22. my goal is to break 500whp yet still be a weekend driver What i have greedy FMIC Apexi power intake kit Tein coilovers and dampener kit 52mill radiator Parts list. Q45 Airflow meter $100-150 Plenum , fuel rail, throttle body $1000 (for engine clean up only minimal performance increase) Walbro 400LPH $200 ECU I have a haltech platinum Pro ecu kit, let me know if I should upgrade this to make 500hp (370rwkw) Injectors 1000cc $1000-$1100 Carbon clutch twin plate with flywheel $2500 (for $300-500 more but can handle upto 800 hp, if anyone gets a gtt to 800 please fill out your will) Camsharft poncam type b $700 Cam pullys $350 And the big one GT35R turbo kit $4200 Whiteline sway bars $700 any tips or advice or different products i should buy?
  23. Okay, so I've got my dream car, until I can afford myself a R35 haha. I love my 34, it's a manual 98 model. So far, engine wise, I've added a GFB 6 Preset Electronic Boost Controller. On the way, which will arrive in the next week and be in by the 28th, is a 6 boost Exhaust Manifold, 1000cc Injectors, Nistune ECU, Madcat intake manifold, fuel rail and 90mm throttle body, Walbro 460 Fuel Pump and my big 900mm Front mount intercooler. I'm planning on getting this all in within a few days of flying back home from work. I know what I'm doing adding all this stuff, it's really not hard, just a bit fiddly. I've got a few questions though.. So obviously the upgrades listed are quite substantial, and will allow me to handle quite a bit more horsepower, but I'm wondering what Turbo to upgrade to? Or even better, whats an easy way to know what turbo I can fit? As most of you would know, my manifold turbo mount supports a T3 fitting. I'm wanting at least 350HP at the wheels, but if it's possible with these specs, I'd love 400HP at the wheels. I understand the turbo plays a bit part of this, hence why I need some advice. And yes, I am aware a tune would be needed to support the rest of the mods. My second question is related to Anti Lag. So my Nistune ECU I'm getting is plug and play, and I've heard that when it comes to anti-lag, you can have it wired to a switch. Firstly, is this possible with a Nistune ECU? And if someone could explain how it actually works? As I'm genuinely curious how a little 12v active cable being cut on and off can enable something that's programmed inside the ECU? Unless there's more to it.. cheers everyone!
  24. hoodedreeper

    Hello! My name is Chris I'm from the UK and I collected my R34 GTT Facelift a couple of weeks ago Its stock except air filter,exhaust and audio. I'll start a build thread and go into more detail there.
  25. Just trying to find some suggestions as to what Turbo I should upgrade to? Already done all supporting mods so no worries there, just need some input for the turbo. It will be going on my top mount 6 boost turbo manifold, price wise I'd like to keep it under 4k, and I've got a boost controller already hooked up, wanting a strong boost, and hopefully boosting to around 19PSI, wanting to get some serious horsepower out of my RB25DET NEO